Time to be tranquil. In mindful meanders amongst rust-toned bracken and deserted sandy shores. In thoughtful creativity inspired by the seasonal shift. In the seamless cycle of clouds, showers, sunshine, and the unique quality of light. In the year’s golden hour...
Tresco: 28 miles off the Cornish coast. Somewhere else altogether.
EDITORIAL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way
FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford
CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding
PROOFREADER Karyn Noble
COPYWRITER Natalie Millar-Partridge
DESIGN & DIGITAL
HEAD OF DESIGN Daisy May
HEAD OF DIGITAL Adrian Wilkinson
ILLUSTRATOR Karen Katon-Oprey
CONTRIBUTORS
Amy Bonifas, Sophie Farrah, Emma Henderson, Gina Jackson, Jane Knight, Natalie Millar-Partridge, Adrian Mourby, Natalie Paris, Danielle Schofield, Jessica Way
COVER PHOTO
The Newt, Somerset Discover more in our features this edition: Sink your teeth into Somerset, p82 and The Great Indoors, p38
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Autumn couldn’t be a more inviting time of year for travel, encouraging us to embrace a slower pace and lean into cosy elements of a luxury getaway –from new openings with cutting-edge design and properties drenched in history to some much-lauded foodie spots and one-of-a-kind experiences.
Our features take us on an exciting geographical journey across the British Isles, exploring some of the most intriguing destinations, from Mayfair (p32) to Northumberland (p94) and Scotland’s Ardnamurchan Peninsula (p26) to the Dee Valley of Wales (p66).
We take a deep dive into Britain’s charming wild isles, home to some of the most unique diving in the world (p60) and journey to Somerset (p82) to discover this renowned foodie destination – from artisan cheese and cider to exceptional seasonal produce, we delve into the region’s teeming larder.
As the days shorten and the nights draw in, The Great Indoors (p38) shines a spotlight on those design-centric properties that leave us longing to stay inside. We also celebrate the beauty of Exeter (p70), a city designed for roaming with stunning Georgian architecture.
Lastly, don’t miss our exclusive competition (p74) for the chance to win £250 of PoB Hotels gift vouchers.
We hope this edition of British Travel Journal ignites your sense of adventure, inspiring you to discover the beauty of the British Isles, perhaps taking you somewhere entirely new. Safe travels, and don’t forget to put your clocks back!
Jessica x
JESSICA WAY EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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Leighton House 16 November 2024 - 27 April 2025 Included in admission ticket
rbkc.gov.uk/museums
Indulge in a luxury break this season; from a vineyard stay at Devon’s Lympstone Manor to a wellness escape in Cornwall, gourmet dining at the Grove of Narberth in Wales and a dog-friendly adventure in Scotland.
Take a deep dive into Britain’s flourishing wild isles, where with nearly 20,000 miles of diverse coastline, the waters teem with wildlife, offering some of the most unique diving in the world.
British Travel Journal heads to the picturesque Dee Valley of Wales and steps back in time at the opulent Palé Hall – an immaculate restored estate with a breathtaking backdrop, designed for fairy-tale weekends.
A city designed for roaming, British Travel Journal visits Exeter – a Roman city with Georgian architecture, drenched in history and surrounded with flourishing countryside, just a short drive from the coast.
This autumn sees The Farm at Avebury celebrate its hundredth harvest. We take a trip to Wiltshire to learn about the farm’s diversification, with contemporary accommodation, creative workshops and seasonal produce.
A foodie’s haven, Somerset is brimming with artisan cheese, cider and seasonal produce. British Travel Journal takes a culinary tour of this abundant county, seeking out where to eat, drink and stay.
Head to The Lord Crewe Arms in Northumberland to disconnect under the vast dark skies; the perfect spot to stargaze and explore the history and nature of one of the least-populated regions of the UK.
As the days shorten, make the most of cosy evenings indoors with our latest book recommendations, puzzles and crosswords.
British Travel Journal has teamed up with PoB Hotels to offer you the chance to win a £250 gift voucher to spend on a PoB Hotel of your choice. See page 74.
Whether you’re looking for a city or country escape or just want to know the latest spa experiences (moon bathing, anyone?) we know where to find them
Text by Jane Knight
Named after its position between the sea and the moon, this brace of two hotels and spa is due to open near Whitby in October. Couples might opt for historic Saltmoore House; its 43 rooms feature painted panelling, oceaninspired fabrics and perhaps a four-poster bed and a roll-top bath. More family friendly, the 29-room Beach House has a laid-back vibe; it also accepts dogs. As well as a spa with a cryotherapy chamber, Saltmoore will offer wellness activities, including yoga on the beach, surfing, sound-bath sessions and kitchen-garden workshops. ◆
Rooms from £300, with breakfast; saltmoore.co.uk
If you’re planning an elegant city break in Lincoln, with its cathedral, castle and historic Bailgate, the White Hart Hotel is looking good following a 12-month refurbishment. It’s also just opened a fullyserviced Georgian townhouse at No 7 Castle Hill, with two king-size bedrooms, a kitchen and a private cinema room so you can enjoy your own space while also taking advantage of the hotel facilities. ◆
Doubles from £129, with breakfast; townhouse from £299, self-catering; whitehart-lincoln.co.uk
Almost a decade after Virgin opened its first hotel in Chicago, it now has a London property, in the heart of hip and happening Shoreditch. With plenty of exposed brick, steel-framed windows and neutral tones in the bedrooms, it’s more warehouse chic than Virgin bright and brash. There’s a basement tapas bar, a rooftop pool and a Mediterranean restaurant. ◆
Rooms from £240; virginhotels.com
Making the most of the coast, this hotel on Freshwater Bay has Channel and beach views from 36 of its 40 rooms, and serves the freshest of seafood in its restaurant, which also looks out to sea. It has just reopened after a £6 million refurbishment.
Rooms from £234, with breakfast; albionhotel.co.uk Editor loves
Foodies, families and four-legged friends should make a beeline to this flint-cobbled hotel, which opened its doors in Weybourne by the North Norfolk coast in August. Set in an old malt house, it has an impressive double-height restaurant with exposed brick and beams, where you can feast on lobster platters and Cromer crab gnocchi as well as delicacies from the land. The 28 stylish rooms are spread across the main house and the old stable blocks. Some will sleep a family, and dogs get their own bed and biscuits. The pebble beach is less than a 10-minute walk away. ◆
Rooms from £200 per night, with breakfast; themaltingsweybourne.com
The latest piggy joins the litter on 8 September in the former Barnsley House, following the opening of The Village Pub in June. Book the latter for a cosy retreat featuring pub grub (such as jugged beef and carrot, and pork pies) and the Pig proper for larger rooms, Rosemary Verey designed gardens, and a boutique spa. ◆
Rooms from £250 in the Pig and £215 in the pub, with breakfast; thepighotel.com, thevillagepub.co.uk
You can gaze out onto water lilies supplied by Monet’s garden in Giverny, France, when you stay at one of these super-sleek lakeside ecolodges. With plenty of wood and floorto-ceiling windows, the light-filled spaces are double height, with sundecks overlooking the water’s edge. Six are ideal for a family; while another two are for couples only, with a bed on the upper floor, an infrared sauna, a steam shower and an outdoor whirlpool bath. Guests can use the hotel’s spa as well as eat in its three restaurants. There’s guided wild swimming in the lake too. ◆
Lodges for six from £1,200; exclusive.co.uk
Interior designer Hazel Lightbody and her hotelier husband Alasdair have worked their magic on this 14-room former coaching inn, which opened over the summer. The stylish rooms make a great base from which to go walking, cycling, fishing or whisky tasting. Both the cosy bar and lounge feature log burning stoves, perfect for those chilly Autumn nights.
Doubles from £145, with breakfast; alythhotel.co.uk
The spectacular views over Robin Hood’s Bay are the same, but this hotel has a new look now it’s been taken over by The Loxley Collection, which also owns Cornwall’s Polurrian on the Lizard. Expect coastal-chic bedrooms, Mediterranean and British classics in the revamped Osborne’s restaurant and the perfect place to down a Yorkshire pint in the hotel’s Loxley pub. ◆
Rooms from £109, with breakfast; victoriarhb.com
The subterranean spa at this hotel has already carved out a name for itself and has now added an impressive £3 million Spa Terrace, with three outdoor hydrotherapy pools heated to a toasty 38°C. Alternate a warm wallow with a bracing dip in the cold tubs, which come in the form of aged whisky barrels; there is also a sauna overlooking the pools and firepits where you can cosy up with a blanket on cooler nights. Head back inside for a treatment and to try everything from a starlit salt cave to a saltwater pool. ◆
From £279 per person for a night’s stay, three meals and a 60-minute spa treatment; baronseden.com
If you’re fond of a pint or six, consider pulling one from your private beer tap as you lie back in a wooden bath filled with vitamin-rich malt and hops, which are known for their antioxidant properties. Four people can share the beer spa, part of the Georgian hotel’s new spa offering, which includes steam, sauna and mud chambers. ◆
45 minutes in beer spa £68pp; norfolkmead.co.uk
The first of a series of quarterly rural recharge retreats for women is scheduled for 20–22 September at this quirky boutique hotel on a 700-acre estate. Activities include spinning, paddle boarding and meditation, with yoga and Pilates classes powered by yoga and activewear brand lululemon. Everyone will receive a lululemon T-shirt, with spot prizes and giveaways throughout the weekend. ◆
From £647pp for two nights, including food; thetempus.co.uk
Should we be lucky enough to have an Indian summer, the new outdoor Signet Spa at this 46room hotel near Rutland Water will really come into its own. This isn’t the kind of place where you get lost amid windowless corridors: you can fully immerse yourself in nature in the heated outdoor pool and woodfire hot tubs. There’s a sauna pod and treatment rooms where you can indulge in massages or facials using Gaia products; a clubhouse is due to open soon. Stay the night in one of the contemporary rooms to get the best rates. ◆
Rooms from £208 with breakfast, spa access and one 60-minute treatment; barnsdalerutland.com
Wine spa treatments by Pelegrims, a local vineyard-to-skin spa brand, are on offer at this beachside hotel. The newly opened spa is a great place to visit after a walk on the beach and before tucking into the restaurant’s famous fish ‘n’ chips.
Rooms from £170, with breakfast; therelaiscoodenbeach.com
For meditation that is truly out-of-this-world, try moon- and star-bathing – gazing at the naturally lit heavens while a guide leads you through the mind-cleansing process. Framed by the dramatic Skiddaw Mountain and Lake District Fells, Armathwaite has some of the darkest night skies in the UK. Take time to bath in the infinity-edge spa pool. ◆
A night’s stay including dinner and 90-minute moon- and star-bathing £250pp; armathwaite-hall.com
Just the ticket for train lovers, this Grade I listed house was the home of the station agent for what is now the world’s oldest railway station. Liverpool Road Station was built in 1830; it closed in 1975, after which the house was used as offices by the Science and Industry Museum. Now the Landmark Trust has restored it, with furnishings reminiscent of the 1930s, the golden age of steam. It’s certainly first-class, with the four bedrooms sharing four bathrooms and shower rooms, one of which is huge, with a standalone bath. ◆
Four nights for eight from £780; landmarktrust.org.uk
This stylish metal pod with a king-size bed on the mezzanine and its own hot tub makes a great hideaway near the Cardigan coastline. Rent it à deux or get friends to book the boathouse and the piglet pod, so up to six can stay together on the same farm. Alpacas roam freely around the properties. ◆
Three nights for two from £669; sykescottages.co.uk
Self-catering for wheelchair users doesn’t have to mean clinical. This smart cottage has a wet room with remote-control loo, lowered handbasin and a planetarium-themed ceiling. The kitchen has a lowered hob for wheelchair access and there are electric beds and riser recliner chairs. The owner can even help hire a hoist locally. ◆
Three nights for two from £551; crabpotcottages.co.uk
The word ‘unusual’ doesn’t begin to describe this bolthole for two in Ross-on-Wye. The modern roundhouse with floor-to-ceiling curved windows holds a monsoon shower and sauna, and has seats so you can gaze out at the natural swimming pond with waterfall. You can bathe there or in the open-air copper bathtub. Beneath it all are the open-plan modern living quarters, with a contemporary four-poster, a grand piano and a separate kitchen. It’s a great base from which to explore the Wye Valley, with sweeping river views from the terrace of the tiered Japanese garden. ◆
Two nights for two from £395; the-nant.co.uk
The perfect romantic escape, this contemporary ‘cottage’ on a converted farm has an upstairs bedroom with wood burner and twin bathtubs outside on the deck. It’s very minimalistic but if you want something a bit more rustic, there’s a converted barn on the farm too.
A night for two from £90; kiphideaways.com
Stay in one of a quartet of former lighthouse keepers’ cottages on a dramatic promontory with spectacular sea views. Among more than 100 cottages from new collection Devon Hideaways, Triton sleeps four in one double room and two singles; two of the bedrooms are sea facing. Woolacombe and Croyde beaches are nearby. Make sure you pack your binoculars. ◆
Three nights for four from £545; devonhideaways.co.uk
Enjoy out-of-hours access to the 26 acres of subtropical gardens at Trebah, on the Helford River, when you stay at this newly renovated gatehouse lodge. It has two en-suite rooms and its own garden area, though you’re unlikely to need it in this ultimate getaway for gardeners.
From £110 a night for four; cornishholidaycottages.com
Don’t want to fly to Ibiza but still fancy a bit of festival spirit? Take the ferry to Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight instead, where the exterior of this white-brick property belies its psychedelic interiors rammed full of unusual artefacts. From the creators of the Bestival festival, it includes a crocheted peace sign salvaged from the main stage, a yoga studio with drum kit, the front part of a tuk-tuk and Rajasthani doorframes. Outside is just as special, with a skate ramp as well as a pool, a hot tub and a sauna. ◆
A week for 10 in five rooms from £8,495; uniquehomestays.com
A countryside retreat with spectacular views, this single-storey flint building with stylish interiors and Crittall doors has half of its six bedrooms in the main house, the other half in the barn. The open-plan living room is cleverly divided into three areas: the main lounge, a study and a snug. Perfect for large family groups, there's even a croquet lawn and a Mediterranean-inspired central courtyard. ◆
From £965 a night for 12; luxuryboltholes.com
luxuryboltholes.com @luxuryboltholes
Surfing in Scotland? This is not on the coast but in what is being billed as Europe’s largest inland surfing facility, set to open in October, 15 minutes from Edinburgh. Central to the 60-acre country park is a 160m wave garden capable of generating 1,000 waves an hour. The idea is that it’s easier for novices and provides more consistent waves for experienced surfers.
Lessons and sessions will be available, with wetsuit and board included. If you want to make more than a day of it, there are pods and lodges on-site sleeping between two and eight people. ◆
Prices and opening date yet to be set; lostshore.com
Take in 100 life-size iron sculptures at Antony Gormley’s Time Horizon installation surrounding the former home of Sir Robert Walpole. The sculptures are dotted around the 300-acre estate, many of them partially buried in the ground. The exhibition is on until the end of October; book two nights at Congham Hall nearby in September for free entry. ◆ Exhibition £22; houghtonhall.com
Explore both the medieval and Georgian tunnels that have just opened to visitors beneath this Norman castle as part of its latest attraction. The castle’s labyrinthine tunnels were used during the Barons’ War in the 13th century; they were expanded because of the threat of a Napoleonic invasion, and were later employed during the Second World War. ◆
Entry £20.90; englishheritage.org.uk
Winston Churchill is said to have drunk 42,000 bottles of Pol Roger during his lifetime. You won’t come close to that, but you will be able to drink plenty during this weekend to celebrate the 150th anniversary of his birth. Friday night dinner starts with Champagne and canapés. On Saturday, after a breakfast with Pol Roger Buck's Fizz, guests hike to the ruins of Dunscaith Castle for a picnic and Champagne cocktails. On your return, you can find out more about the Champagne from Pol Roger’s George Prideaux before a five-course tasting menu paired with fizz. ◆
From £750pp; kinloch-lodge.co.uk
Discover the en plein air paintings of leading Victorian artist Frederic, Lord Leighton, at his former studio-house in Holland Park from 16 November to 27 April 2025. This major Leighton House exhibition displays over 60 of Leighton’s remarkable creations, including Bay of Cádiz and A Street in Damascus, alongside several other paintings on loan from private collections, each returning ‘home’ for the first time in over 120 years.
Admission ticket, from £14; rbkc.gov.uk/museums
Discover the 95-mile coastline from Studland Bay to Lyme Regis, featuring dramatic coastal features, fossils, and a history of smuggling in hidden coves. One of a collection of tailored walking and cycling tours by The Carter Company, the experience includes flexible walking distances, steam train rides, subtropical gardens, wild swimming and stays in charming inns and boutique hotels along the way. ◆
A week from £1,475 per person; the-carter-company.com
Different perspectives are what keeps life interesting, and someone who appreciates this more than most is aerial photographer and videographer Lee Rowland, who specialises in capturing breathtaking views of Britain from above.
Once a keen scuba diver, Lee’s previous passion was for photographing life deep under the sea, but a very different angle recently captured his imagination. Now a CAA (Civil Aviation Authority)-certified remote-drone pilot, Lee spends his time on dry land instead, shooting incredible images from high up in the air.
“I’m definitely drawn to more unusual hobbies, but it’s photography that I am truly passionate about,” he explains.
“I love the whole process – planning a shot, executing it and coming home and editing. I can spend three or four hours editing one image and I don’t actually do that much with it – I don’t add or take anything away. All I want to do is make the most of the details that I know were there and ensure that the image is exactly what I saw through my own eyes on the day.
“I like to capture places that are unique, so I do a lot of location scouting. Once I’ve chosen what it is I want to shoot, it can sometimes keep me awake at night. I already know how I want it to look. Planning is important. It has to be sunrise or sunset, the light during the daytime is too harsh. Weather obviously plays a huge part too – generally I don’t like a plain blue sky. I like contrast,” he says.
“We’re so spoiled in the UK – we have stunning countryside and dramatic cityscapes. It has so much to offer and so much diversity. I can’t think of anywhere else I’d rather be,” he says.
“I spend a lot of time on Angelsey in Wales, but I’ve got so many places on my list – I want to get back to London, and I want to spend some time in the Scottish Highlands too. I love shooting beautiful things and the idea of someone visiting a place because they’ve seen a picture of mine.”
From sparkling city skylines to beautifully remote scenes, there’s no doubt that Lee has a knack for capturing drama, depth and beauty. Here, he takes British Travel Journal through some of his favourite images and reveals the narrative behind them.
ST CWYFAN’S CHURCH, ANGLESEY
Reached via the tube or National Rail from London, “Every time I look at this image it makes me smile. It has so much depth it seems to go on forever. I visited there three or four times, but it was always too busy – it’s not that people would have ruined the shot, I just wouldn’t want to affect the enjoyment of anyone’s day by buzzing around with a drone. I wanted a sunset image, so I kept visiting but it never looked right. One day there was a storm in the night, it cleared up at around 4.30am so I headed down there. The sky was perfect, the tide was in. It was one of those very rare occasions where everything worked out perfectly.”
2BEAUMARIS, WALES
“I took this on a Bank Holiday weekend, and it was totally spontaneous. I didn’t have any plans to shoot – it was meant to be a weekend of relaxing with my family. My youngest son, Samuel, who’s 13, had started to take an interest in my work and coming out with me when I fly – his role is to keep an eye on the drone! I noticed that the sky was looking moody, so I suggested that we went out together, and this was the result. It was quiet, there was a beautiful sunset, and we sat there together and chatted. This image is a very happy memory for me.”
TOWER BRIDGE, LONDON
“I am very proud to be British and nothing makes me prouder than London, I absolutely love it. Anyone that flies a drone wants this shot. A group of us spent the day in London shooting different places. I planned to get to Tower Bridge when it was dark, so I was careful to save enough battery. I had an idea of what I wanted in my head – Tower Bridge had to be lit up and I wanted to be able to see the Shard too. I waited for an hour for the light to be right, and it was worth it – I am made up with the result.”
4
“I’d wanted to shoot The Spinnaker Tower for ages, and I wanted to shoot it at night. I was in Portsmouth for an event with a drone retailer, so that evening I ended up going to The Spinnaker with a few other drone photographers who wanted to learn more about shooting at night. There was around six of us in the end. I said to tthem, ‘Let me just get this shot I’ve got in my mind, otherwise I won’t be able to sleep at night!’, so I took it and landed, and then one by one I helped them with their settings, etc. It was nice being able to share that knowledge.”
For more on Lee and his photography visit viewabovebritain.co.uk. You can also follow him on Instagram at @view_above_britain
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Mainland Britain’s most westerly point is a place of rugged beauty, interesting wildlife, and a boutique restaurant with rooms in 13th-century Mingary Castle, once fought over by rival clans
Text by Jane Knight
They conquer you through your stomach at this castle. All afternoon, nose-twitching odours have been wafting up the stairs, drifting deliciously round my bedroom, at the very top of the building, encased within the thickest of walls. By dinner time, I can’t wait to see what smells so good.
Chef patron Colin Nicholson’s eight-course tasting menu, served in the light oak dining room, doesn’t disappoint. From the very first bite of his sourdough, I know it’s going to be special.
The procession of courses that makes its way to our table includes hand-dived scallop, Valrhona chocolate cremeux with blackberry compote, and that dish with the amazing aroma I’d been anticipating for hours – spiced monkfish tail,
pak choi, confit leek and fennel veloute. And yes, it tastes as good as it smells.
Clearly, 13th-century Mingary Castle on Scotland’s Ardnamurchan Peninsula is no ordinary medieval pile. In fact, it is quite probably Britain’s smallest castle restaurant with rooms; it has just four suites within its 14-metre hexagonal walls.
While it’s by no means easy to reach, my goodness it's worth making a culinary pilgrimage to this place where your meals come with a side serving of history. Getting there involves either a two-hour drive from Fort William, where the overnight Caledonian Sleeper rolls up, or a four-hour drive from Glasgow airport; the route taken by my friend Suzanne and me.
‘Clearly, 13th-century Mingary Castle on Scotland’s Ardnamurchan Peninsula is no ordinary medieval pile. In fact, it is quite probably Britain’s smallest castle restaurant with rooms.’
It’s not an easy drive, but it’s a splendidly scenic one, and sees us skirting the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond, taking the Corran ferry across Loch Linnhe, and following the most sinuous of singletrack roads along Loch Sunart, where the conifer-rich countryside appears to be a doppelganger for some of Canada’s vast, wild terrain.
Though we left our Essex homes at the crack of dawn, by the time we arrive at Mingary through sheep-filled fields on the 30,000 acre Ardnamurchan estate, the weather is coming down over the hills; winter, too, is preparing to lay down its dark early-evening cloak.
Before it does, there’s just time to take in the view from the private ramparts belonging to our two-roomed suite. Grey fingers of rock reach out into the Sound of Mull, across which the ferry chugs to Tobermory on Mull itself. Horned cattle graze in fields by the water, which laps hungrily at the castle’s base.
It's not until the next morning when we can see the castle from the shore at low tide that we fully understand its strategic vantage point. Rising almost seamlessly from the sill of volcanic rock beneath, and almost blending in with the drably beautiful colours of the hill rising behind it, Mingary has a clear command of the coast.
It might look camouflaged now, but its light pink colour in the past was intended to be a beacon to those plying the waters in their boats, demonstrating the importance of its lords as well as their dominance over the northern part of the Sound of Mull and the entrance to Loch Sunart.
This little corner of Scotland looks like the picture of serenity today, but in the past, the former Viking stronghold
was the centre of bitter and bloody clan rivalry, with the castle besieged time and again as it passed through a confusing array of MacDougalls, MacDonalds, Maclains and Macleans. At one point, sailors from a Spanish armada ship anchored off Tobermory took part in one of the sieges.
‘It's not until the next morning when we can see the castle from the shore at low tide that we fully understand its strategic vantage point. Rising almost seamlessly from the sill of volcanic rock beneath... Mingary has a clear command of the coast.’
A more peaceful recent past was followed by abandonment in the mid 19th-century before estate owner Donald Houston formed the Mingary Castle Preservation and Restoration Trust in 2013 to restore the crumbling stone, rebuild collapsed roofs and unearth floors buried beneath the undergrowth.
The hotel opened three years later.
It’s a harmonious blend of medieval and modernity, with ramparts to walk along and details such as a sword hanging on the wall of the downstairs loo, alongside an inviting panelled sitting room with velvet sofas and an open fire and beautifully restored bedrooms.
Named after those warring Scottish clans, the bedrooms come with four-posters antique furniture and intricate crewel embroidery fabric, which also covers the walls of two suites. One room features a bathroom in a secret chapel that was lost in the castle walls for centuries, while another is a self-
contained apartment in a courtyard building, with its own wood burner and a beautiful antique bed on the first floor.
So far, so restored castle. But Mingary’s real strength came when business partners Colin Nicholson and Jessica Thompson took over the lease. Formerly working as chef and restaurant manager (respectively) at Inverlochy Castle, they moved with their two dogs, Hamish and Hector, and opened Mingary as a restaurant with rooms in mid 2021.
“It was daunting, particularly given the timing with COVID, but we couldn’t say no to the opportunity,” says Jessica, who excels at making guests feel like they are indeed king of this castle.
“Every chef wants to run their own restaurant… but they don’t expect it to be in a castle,” adds Colin.
Thankfully, he has a modern kitchen to conjure up meals, with as much as possible made in-house, from the flavoured
‘Onward to Sanna Bay beach we go, driving across a circular plain that turns out to be an extinct volcanic crater surrounded by craggy peaks.’
butters to the petits fours, by way of jams, chutneys and even sausages. Fish is delivered twice a week from Fort William, trout from Tobermory, and langoustine and lobster from the waters just in front of the castle. About three quarters of the vegetables, herbs and edible flowers that decorate the plates come from the nearby community garden.
We pass the market garden on our way to Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, a 20-minute drive away. Built in 1849 to a design by Robert Louis Stevenson’s uncle, Alan Stevenson, it towers over the rocks, the waves whacking the shore far below. It marks mainland Britain’s most westerly point on this rugged
peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic; it’s even further west than Land’s End.
The lighthouse isn’t open in winter, but it doesn’t matter – the drive alone makes it worth the trip, along a singletrack road snaking through this bleakly beautiful countryside that is browned by bracken. We are lucky enough to spot several herds of deer by the roadside.
Onward to Sanna Bay beach we go, driving across a circular plain that turns out to be an extinct volcanic crater surrounded by craggy peaks. From the beach car park, a solitary dog-walker directs us over the dunes to what must surely be Scotland’s most scenic stretch of sand. It runs into little bays between the rocky outcrops, the water a distinct Caribbean tinge, despite the chill wind.
Along the coast to the pretty village of Portuairk we walk, where we fall greedily on Colin’s tasty picnic with its sourdough sarnies of smoked fish or venison salami as we look out to sea from a perfectly positioned bench.
Summer would bring a different vibe to these sands, along with activities on the peninsula ranging from kayaking to wildlife spotting; boat trips head out to the Treshnish Isles to see its puffins, with the possibility of spotting whales, dolphins, basking sharks and sea eagles. A day at sea culminates with a visit to the famous Fingal’s Cave on the island of Staffa.
In winter, though, there’s still an interesting boat trip to take: from the little village of Kilchoan’s harbour, we board the ferry to Tobermory, at the northern end of Mull. The sea air is chilling despite the sunshine, but we can’t resist standing on deck for the superb castle views before switching sides to look instead at the row of colourfully painted houses by Tobermory’s harbour, which doubled as Balamory in the children’s TV programme.
Here, we warm up over a delicious hot chocolate in the Tobermory Chocolate shop (Edie McCredie’s garage in the kids' programme Balamory) before perusing the craft shops on the main drag. Here, too, is The Island Bakery – its divine biscuits are also on offer as in-room treats at the castle –and Tobermory Distillery. A short drive away is Isle of Mull Cheese, with its coffee shop, indoor vine and an enormous wall of a window looking out to sea.
It’s not long before we’re out on that water again ourselves, returning to the castle for another fantastic meal, this time a shorter five-course affair. The wind is whipping up a storm outside but it’s cosy within the thick castle walls; the bedrooms so warm from the biomass heater that I fling the windows open.
Tomorrow, the impossibly curvy singletrack road awaits as we return to Glasgow. But tonight I can snuggle down in my castle four-poster, replete from a meal fit for a king – food for fort indeed
Rooms at Mingary Castle cost from £300, B&B; mingarycastle.co.uk
Mayfair is easily one of London’s most exciting postcodes. We hope you enjoy our pick of some of the best places to eat, drink, sleep, and spa in this coveted corner of the capital, curated by a born and raised Londoner
Text by Gina Jackson
Home to a smattering of lauded landmarks, and coined as a playground for the rich and famous, Mayfair has plenty to keep you occupied between the glitzy boutiques and swanky restaurants lining its streets. We’ve shared the must-do experiences and places to visit in the capital’s most exclusive postcode, from bedding down at five-star pads to wining and dining at the city’s most exquisite restaurants.
Lunch among artworks at Mount Street Restaurant
From the same minds behind The Fife Arms, this art lover’s hideaway is a veritable feast for the eyes as much as it is for the belly. Tucked above sister property Audley Public House, it has a dazzling mix of terrazzo surfaces, leather tabletops
and wiggly red chairs. Guests feast on modern British fare while cocooned among artworks from a slew of famed artists, from Lucian Freud to Henri Matisse. Informed by produce sourced around the UK, the restaurant’s most popular dishes include its famous lobster Wellington for two, and creamy figleaf soft serve, all eaten while enjoying sweeping views over Mount Street below.
Drinks at The Red Room or The Connaught Bar
For an evening cocktail, head over to Mayfair mainstay The Connaught, which has a number of sleek bars to hide away in. Make a beeline for The Red Room, concealed behind a draped curtain, where you’ll stumble across an impossibly chic space awash in tones of blush pink and cream, punctuated by pops of red. Red-themed artworks
by a number of visionaries fill the space, along with a pleasing melange of pink onyx, Murano glassware, and Italian marble, all made to welcome guests into a space reminiscent of a collector’s living room. Meanwhile, martini loyalists should head over to award-winning The Connaught Bar (named the 5th best bar in the world by The World’s 50 Best Bars 2023), where you’ll find the most legendary martini in town – poured from the bar’s renowned martini trolley, and always stirred, never shaken.
Stay at Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane
Wedged between Green Park and Hyde Park and within a stone’s throw from some of London’s most recognisable landmarks, this luxury pad is the ultimate spot to bed down after a day spent exploring the neighbourhood.
Sweeping suites are decked out with cream furnishings, glossy lacquer surfaces, and marble-clad bathrooms – many come with their own private terraces, offering prime views over the rooftops below. It might be tempting to hole up in your suite all day, but it’s worth venturing downstairs to dine on modern French fare at one-Michelin-starred Pavyllon, helmed by chef Yannick Alléno, or heading to the hotel’s serene spa for restorative treatments.
Afternoon tea is a British staple, and if you know your Matisse from your Picasso, or generally have a keen eye for art, look no further than Sketch. This wildly creative, three-storey townhouse with four restaurants, one with three Michelin stars, is akin to an Alice in Wonderland of culinary adventure. The Gallery Room, where afternoon tea is hosted, is adorned with a millennial-pink backdrop created by designer India Mahdavi. It has hosted work by a range of artists, including Tracey Emin and David Shrigley, and is the perfect place to sink into the comfort of the sumptuous scallop-shaped seats, while snapping photos for your Instagram. A French spin on the British tradition, its afternoon-tea offerings, which could include bergamot macarons or truffle brioche bun sandwiches, will entice your taste buds.
It can be somewhat of a mission to find a tasty, cheap eat in the heart of Mayfair, but Mercato Mayfair is the ultimate pit stop for street food at a reasonable price. Housed in a former church on North Audley Street, it's where you can sample a mouthwatering variety of dishes – from spicy Taiwanese bao to freshly churned gelato – all just a stone’s throw from Oxford Street and Marble Arch.
Spa treatments at the Aman Spa
Looking to pamper yourself? The Connaught’s Aman Spa is the ultimate retreat, offering a series of holistic, resultsdriven treatments for face and body. Choose from full-body massages to alleviate stress, to facials that expertly blend
Japanese ingredients and cutting-edge technology to provide hydration or tackle signs of aging. Spa guests will also have access to a tranquil swimming pool with a gently cascading waterfall, and can expect to leave feeling utterly restored from top to toe.
This private members’ club and hotel welcomes all guests into its namesake restaurant: an elegant, blue-panelled dining room on the border of Grosvenor Square. While a delicious everyday menu is served from breakfast through to dinner, it’s the weekly Sunday roast that has quickly amassed cult status among those in the know. Choose your meat, and watch while the table is laden with all of the trimmings you could possibly imagine, all served in chic pewter dishes. Wash it down with a zingy Bloody Mary.
Michelin-Starred Dining in Mayfair
For the ultimate indulgence, Mayfair has plenty of Michelinstarred dining to choose from. In addition to the restaurants already featured in this article, there's Gymkhana serving elevated Indian fare; or ascend the sweeping staircase at HIDE to sample Ollie Dabbous’ theatrical British-European dishes, from candy stripe beetroot to Zerbinati melon. Gourmets can also go all out at three-Michelin starred
Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, where the exquisite tasting menu changes with the seasons. Or head to the renowned one-Michelin star restaurant; Murano, where Angela Hartnett leads the way in serving humble yet exquisite Italian cuisine, drawing inspiration from three generations of authentic Italian family cooking.
Discover exhibitions and refuel at Claridge's ArtSpace ArtSpace museum and cafe is hidden underneath Claridge's Hotel, with its own dedicated entrance on the newly restored
‘For the ultimate indulgence... ascend the sweeping staircase at HIDE to sample Ollie Dabbous’ theatrical British-European dishes, from candy stripe beetroot to Zerbinati melon. ’
‘If you are marking a special occasion, consider reserving the exclusive Renoir Room... a dining ambiance that seamlessly marries opulence with art. ’
Claridge’s facade on Brook’s Mews, bedecked with awning and flag. Previous exhibitions have included Les Lalanne, Damien Hirst, and more. Pop in for a coffee and an exquisite slice of cake at the gallery-like patisserie counter and visit before 24 October 2024 to see Drip Drip Point Warp Spin Buckle Rot exhibition by Daria Blum, the winner of the inaugural Claridge’s Royal Academy Schools Art Prize.
Enjoy exquisite dining at the world-renowned seafood restaurant Scott’s Mayfair
If you are marking a special occasion, consider reserving the exclusive Renoir Room, an intimate space designed for up to eight guests, at Scott's Mayfair. Encased in verre églomisé and featuring a radiant green agate floor, the walls of this remarkable private dining area showcase masterpieces by celebrated artists such as Renoir, Miró, and Chagall. Immerse yourself in a dining ambiance that seamlessly marries opulence with art.
Visit the prestigious shopping institutions
If you're a fan of high-end shopping, Mayfair offers an array of luxury shopping destinations. Savile Row, renowned for its bespoke tailoring, is the perfect place to find a custom-made
suit or tailored shirts. Head to Burlington Arcade, with its elegant glass roof and exclusive boutiques, for unique jewellery, accessories, and exquisite gifts. Don't miss The Royal Arcade, exuding old-world charm and home to a variety of luxury brands and independent shops. Plus, there's the renowned Fortnum & Mason store, which, along with Harrods, Liberty of London, and Selfridges, is a celebrated London institution – one that has been part of the Mayfair community for over 300 years.
Limited to editions of 280, our newly-commissioned Art Deco posters feature glamorous holiday destinations around the world, ski resorts in the European Alps, and the world’s greatest historic automobiles. Over 100 designs to choose from, all printed on 100% cotton fine art paper, measuring 97 x 65 cms. Priced at £420 each (inc. UK sales tax). Private commissions are also welcome.
@pullmaneditionsposters
This lovingly restored 17th-century Jacobean manor sits right on the edge of 'The Garden of England' in Ashford, Kent. Originally built in 1616 and Grade II listed, Boys Hall has been painstakingly restored by husband-and-wife team, Bradley and Kristie, with the help of family, friends and a variety of local specialists. The house now has nine unique en-suite bedrooms decorated in a sophisticated combination of Farrow & Ball hues, bold fabrics and an array of vintage furniture and eclectic finds. There are stunning original features throughout, such as in the Bishop's Quarter Suite, which is home to ornate 16th-century panelling from Windsor Castle – a gift from King Charles I, who is reputed to have stayed in the house during his flight from parliamentarian forces. The spacious bathroom is also fit for royalty, with checkerboard marble flooring and an opulent gold roll-top tub. Downstairs, guests can unwind in two snug reception rooms, enjoy a drink in the cosy woodclad pub, and have dinner next to a lovely open fireplace in the new beamed dining room.
From £160 per night, including breakfast (Bishop’s Quarter from £350); boys-hall.com
Craving a cosy break? As the temperature drops and we move indoors, British Travel Journal handpicks a selection of design-centric hotels with stunning interiors guaranteed to make you swoon
Text by Sophie Farrah
GUESTHOUSE, YORK
The historic city of York is a great choice for a cosy city break, and interiors lovers should make No 1 York their base. Hip hotel group GuestHouse has breathed new life into this handsome, historic building just moments from the Minster. Huge, dreamy sash windows, high ceilings, and a sweeping central staircase envelop guests with awe at their instant glamour. British designer Martin Hulbert has taken inspiration from the city via locally sourced antiques and art mixed with curios that pay tribute to York’s stories and literary gems. The 39 bedrooms are light and airy, with fireplaces in many and a hint of grandeur to them all. There are four-poster beds, luxurious draped curtains, dollhouses that double as coffee cabinets, and small white roses carved delicately into the walls –an artistic nod to the symbol of the city.
From £164 per night, room only; guesthousehotels.co.uk/no-1-york
Steeped in centuries of Scottish history, this awardwinning Edinburgh hotel is in now its fifth decade. Located just a few steps from the city’s famous Castle on the renowned Royal Mile, this one-ofa-kind collection of historic buildings ooze Gothic glamour and have an enchanting touch of Hogwarts about them. Designed and curated by owner James Thomson, the hotel's rich baroque surroundings feature original oak-panelling, sumptuous tapestries, opulent red leather upholstery, antique church candlesticks, hand-painted ceilings, and more. The theatrical theme continue in the nine wow- factor suites, which are lavishly decorated and irresistibly romantic.
From £475 per night, including breakfast; thewitchery.com
With a luxurious litter that stretches across several counties, THE PIG hotels are well known for their sense of luxurious yet laid-back style, and it is co-founder Judy Hutson who is responsible for the eclectic yet deeply comfortable interiors. Not far from Padstow, THE PIG at Harlyn Bay – an atmospheric 15th-century country manor – is a prime example of Hutson’s skilled eye and attention to detail; rustic wooden furniture meets chic patterned fabrics intermingled with a moody colour palette, antique maps and maritime paintings, and handpicked one-off pieces. It’s deeply atmospheric and cosy. The 30 luxurious bedrooms, including four garden wagons, feel similarly sumptuous and full of cosy character.
From £265 per night, room only; thepighotel.com/at-harlyn-bay
In the charming seaside town of Deal in Kent, The Rose is a relaxed and friendly bar and restaurant with some lovely rooms upstairs. The interiors are a collaboration between interior-design pros Nicola Harding and Michelle Kelly, who have created a deeply stylish medley of bold colour, pattern and comfort. From top to bottom, The Rose has a romantic, boudoir style that is simultaneously chic, with fabrics such as velvet and corduroy pleasingly mixed with vibrant Liberty prints and eye-catching artwork. The eight unique bedrooms combine bold tones, luxurious beds and a mix of vintage furnishings, while pretty bathrooms feature vintage tubs. Stay at The Rose and you can't help but smile.
From £125 per night, including breakfast, and afternoon tea, and cake; therosedeal.com
From the outside, this traditional flint-walled pub looks much as you’d expect; but inside, a world of modern art and extraordinary design awaits. This one-of-a-kind hideaway sits on a tranquil historic estate near Cromer in North Norfolk. Owned by art dealer Ivor Braka, it contains a staggering array of artwork by the likes Damien Hirst, Lucian Freud, Paula Rego, and many more. A captivating mix of old and new, the pub’s interiors and 16 bedrooms were designed by celebrated interior designer and antique dealer Robert Kime. The antique marble in the bathrooms was found in Egypt by Kime himself, while cosy guest lounges are filled with paintings, antiques, and shabbychic leather sofas. In the restaurant, the pub’s own venison is cooked on a large indoor fire beneath 10,000-year-old Irish elk antlers and an eyecatching neon by artist Tracey Emin.
From £140 per night, including breakfast; theguntonarms.co.uk
Tasteful from top to toe, the interiors of the Thyme estate have been conceived by its founder, and creative director, Caryn Hibbert. Her inspiration stems from a deep-rooted love of nature and the desire to bring the beauty of the outside in. From the botanical names of the bedrooms to the use of green as a neutral foundation, the deeply serene interiors combine colour, texture and pattern in a most pleasing and elegant way. Caryn’s own watercolour botanical paintings feature throughout in the form of wallpaper, fabrics, and more, and among the elegance there is playfulness too. In the beautiful Baa Bar, some of the seating is inspired by the Welsh Mountain sheep that graze the estate pastures; grab a delicious garden-inspired cocktail and take a pew on one of the brilliant, one-of-akind woolly sheep seats.
From £430 per night, including breakfast; thyme.co.uk
Crossing the threshold of Henry’s Townhouse feels like stepping into an episode of Bridgerton. With hidden nooks and cosy crannies at every turn, the stunning interiors (designed by owners Steven and Jane Collins, alongside Russell Sage Studio) are inspired by Jane Austen’s brother, Henry, who lived in this handsome four-storey townhouse at the height of the Regency era. Upstairs, there are six extraordinary bedrooms that blend Georgian glamour with handpicked fabrics, curated artwork and period antiques. On the ground floor, guests can take afternoon tea or enjoy a glass of wine in Henry’s Drawing Room, while Jane’s Reading Room combines more formal seating finished in beautiful velvets and subtle prints, antiques, and a grand crystal chandelier that twinkles overhead.
From £545 per night, including breakfast; henrystownhouse.co.uk
Heckfield Place is an imposing Grade II-listed manor in rural Hampshire that has been painstakingly restored and transformed into one of the most elegant country house hotels in the UK. A haven of serene modern design, each of the deeply luxurious 45 bedrooms are characterised by smooth natural materials, meticulous artisanship and a soothing colour palette. Enjoy a piece of cake in the bright and elegant drawing room, surrounded by contemporary art, comfortable furniture and fresh flowers from the garden, or sip a celestial-inspired cocktail in the dark, cocoonlike Moon Bar. The recently unveiled spa features further impressive interiors, with serene, minimalist design and plenty of clean lines.
From £650 per night, including breakfast; heckfieldplace.com
Nested deep within the Tamar Valley, on the border between Devon and Cornwall, Hotel Endsleigh is owned and designed by hotelier and interior designer extraordinaire Olga Polizzi. She's celebrated for creating stylish and thougtful interiors that perfectly suit their location, and Endsleigh’s classically elegant English style is a perfect example of this. The ornate, historic features of this characterful building blend seamlessly with Polizzi’s choice of bold patterns, contemporary art and clever mix of old and new furniture. Each of the 21 deeply peaceful bedrooms have been individually designed and feature the likes of hand-painted wallpapers, book-lined shelves and roll-top bathtubs. Two new suites have been recently unveiled, one of which Polizzi is so proud of that it has been named ‘The Lady Olga’.
From £270 per night, including breakfast; thepolizzicollection.com/hotel-endsleigh
This unique and fascinating five-star hotel is brimming with modern art and a sense of creativity.
From £434 per night, including breakfast; thefifearms.com
This former bank has been spectacularly reimagined, with sumptuous bedrooms fit for royalty and an array of magnificent original features.
From £495 per night, room only; gleneagles.com/townhouse
Experimental by name, experimental by nature. Transformed by the trendsetting Experimental Group, the innovative interiors of this grand county manor are beyond bold.
From £250 per night, including breakfast; cowleymanorexperimental.com
Characterful original features, exquisite artisanship and pared-back style combine in this cosy Cotswolds pub.
From £175 per night, room only; thebullcharlbury.com
The interiors here are an ode to the world-famous university city in which the hotel sits. Each suite is complete with a private library, while bathrooms are located inside the building’s original domed turrets.
From £204 per night, room only; universityarms.com
Established in 1764 and abundant in period charm, this cosy boutique hotel near St Paul's Cathedral has a warm, homely atmosphere and a palpable sense of history.
Average room rate £369 per night, room only; rookeryhotel.com
This small, stylish guesthouse, restaurant and 15-acre smallholding in East Devon is filled with colour, clashing prints and cosy, characterful bedrooms.
From £204 per night, including breakfast; glebehousedevon.co.uk
This unique hotel sits on its own private island in South Devon and is renowned for its beautiful Art Deco interiors.
From £550 per night, including breakfast; burghisland.com
As featured on our front cover... THE GRANARY AT THE NEWT IN SOMERSET
Originally built to store grain, this charming Georgian granary has been cleverly converted into a deeply romantic and luxurious hideaway for two, with a king-size bed, exposed stone walls and a shower room concealed beneath the floor.
Rates for The Granary are from £895 per night, including breakfast, cream tea, 12-month Newt Membership, and an in-room larder and bar; thenewtinsomerset.com
After moving to the Wiltshire countryside with her husband who took on The Beckford Arms, Chloë Luxton had a major tumbleweed moment. Inspired by her love of nature and desire to create a lasting impression on their guests, she founded her own company – Bramley. Here, she shares her secrets to success...
Text by Amy Bonifas
If you want something done, do it yourself, right? Never has this mantra been more true than for wellness brand founder Chloë Luxton. She built a business from scratch after seeing a huge gap in the market 15 years ago, and her collection of English countryside-inspired products are now stocked in 500+ hotels, pubs and restaurants – as well as retailers like Fortnum & Mason and John Lewis.
“After marrying my husband Charlie in 2009, we moved out of London to take on the Beckford Arms – a beautiful country pub with eight bedrooms in Wiltshire,” says Chloë. “But, when searching for bath and body products to put in the rooms, I discovered everything on the market came in
single-use plastic bottles filled with cheap, artificial products.
“Naturally, I saw this as an opportunity to create my own brand – and Bramley was born. I have always been interested in beauty products from an early age. When I was little, I made ‘flower perfume’ – a mixture of rose petals from the garden and my mother’s perfume – and sold it from a stall outside our house for 10p.
“Initially with Bramley, we created a collection of six products (minus the rose petals) and included everything our guests needed for a weekend away, from shampoo to body lotion.” Three children, (Otto, Monty and Inca), two dogs and five chickens later, Chloë has grown her renowned Wiltshire-born brand alongside The Beckford Group's thriving hospitality business.
‘Bramley is a real labour of love – I often call it my ‘firstborn,’... I’m so passionate about it and like to think that can be felt in our products.’
The Beckford Arms is now a destination pub with rooms set within the rolling grounds of the Fonthill Estate. And, they’ve opened five other gorgeous sites in the South West, to include The Talbot Inn in the historic village of Mells, The Bath Arms in the stunning Longleat Estate and The Lord Poulett Arms in the heart of the historic Somerset village of Hinton St George – each stocked, of course, with irresistible Bramley products.
No stranger to the beauty industry, Chloë had previously worked at successful brands like Cowshed (where she met her husband) and Green & Spring. This experience and knowhow became the leverage she needed to keep Bramley head and shoulders above the rest.
“One of the main lessons I took from my time at Cowshed was the power of getting your customers to experience the products for free – it really does encourage them to go on and make a purchase.
“Since starting out, we’ve seen steady, organic growth – which has suited me because it worked around my young family,” says Chloë.
Bramley continues to grow – there’s now Little B – a collection of gentle children’s bath-time products; and Digby – a selection of natural shampoos and balms for dogs; and following an exciting rebrand in 2023 comes Chloë’s latest brainchild, Bramley Skin.
“I work closely with Caroline, our trained skin expert. She understands the body's physiology, having worked as a therapist for over 20 years. Everything in our collection has a clear function; for example, our Apple Peel AHA Face Exfoliator is filled with hydrating cucumber, papaya, and glycolic, lactic and malic acids.”
This collaboration has also led to the brand’s newest venture – the Bramley Treatment Cabin. Nestled among the birds, bees, and beautiful gardens of The Bath Arms in Longleat, the cabin (on wheels!) recently flung its doors open to guests and visitors to indulge in bespoke Bramley facials and body massages.
“Caroline and I devised the range of treatments. Each has a magical mix of botanicals blended with science-based natural ingredients to ensure they work hard for your skin.”
That’ll be why the lavender and geranium Hand Cream leaves your hands buttery soft but absorbs quickly enough so you’re not left with slippery hands for hours, or why the Magnolia Soothing Bath, Body & Shower Oil is made with essential oils that nourish rather than strip your skin’s delicate moisture barrier.
This slow and natural philosophy is always at the heart of Chloë’s vision for the brand, and product creation is a thoughtful process driven by an expert team. “Once we’ve thought of an idea, we work out which essential oils to use and how we want the customer to feel while using it, we then blend these oils with the bases.
“This is when the magic happens. All our scents are uplifting and the unique blends of botanicals give you a moment to recharge.”
Before each finished creation can be brought to market, new products undergo plenty of testing before it’s onto packaging. “Our new designs by artist Flora Wallace reflect the natural ingredients inside the bottles. Flora creates her inks from foraged botanicals, and we’ve worked hard to make our packaging as ecofriendly as possible.”
Sustainability has been and always will be the top priority for the brand. Chloë has spoken out about too many brands using dishonest greenwashing tactics rather than making genuine efforts to make their products kinder to the planet.
“In the beginning, we launched with 5-litre jerry cans of product and empty Bramley bottles that could be refilled and they’re still our biggest seller today. Last year, we launched our range of compostable refill pouches so customers can top up their bottles over and over again.”
And Chloë’s ingenuity continues to flow. There’s plenty in the pipeline for the coming year, including a launch in the US and sharing Bramley Skin with more fantastic hotel and spa partners.
“Bramley is a real labour of love – I often call it my ‘firstborn,’” says Chloë. “I’m so passionate about it and like to think that can be felt in our products.”
The only thing left to do is try a Bramley staple for yourself. Whether during a rejuvenating stay at one of the Beckford Hotels or while being pampered in the Bramley Spa Treatment Cabin, Chloë's heavenly beauty products have certainly made it much easier to relax and rejuvenate to the blissful scent of the countryside
Bramley products available at bramleyproducts.com.
Rooms at The Bath Arms, Longleat from £130 a night with breakfast; treatments at The Bramley Cabin priced from £50 for a Mini Bramley Bespoke Facial or Back, Neck, Shoulder & Scalp Massage; batharmsinn.com
Chloë’s top three ways to properly relax and unwind
1. Go for a decompression walk
“I love these longer, sunnier days and when I get home from work, I like taking the dog out for a walk (maybe with a child on a bike in tow) and decompressing in nature.”
2. Try mindful cooking
“I find the monotony of chopping vegetables surprisingly therapeutic! Sometimes, it’s a good idea to tune into a simple task and be present rather than always going on autopilot.”
3. Swap your phone for a book before bed
“I know it’s simple, but when I read my book in the evening instead of scrolling, I can switch off so much easier before bed.”
Three must-visit places when staying at The Beckford Arms, Wiltshire
1. Messums Gallery, Place Farm
“This art gallery and creative community space is housed in the most glorious tithe barn. There’s a cafe for coffee and cake and plenty of nearby countryside walks.”
2. Pythouse Kitchen Garden, West Hatch
“Set in an 18th-century walled garden, this sustainable restaurant serves up the most delicious lunches. They also have outdoor cooking events and supper parties.”
3. Bramley Treatment Cabin, Bath Arms
“I’d of course book in for a new Bramley treatment at our sister pub, The Bath Arms. It’s worth the 30-minute drive over there!”
For a luxurious stay that overlooks an award-winning vineyard, step forward Lympstone Manor, owned by Michelin-starred chef Michael Caines. Endless rows of vines spread out across the hotel grounds, from the doors down towards the boats that slip past on the Exe estuary. This is the UK’s only Michelin-starred hotel-restaurant to have its own vineyard, where guests can sit down to the chef’s impeccable food, and enjoy a wine-flight experience (with gin to follow) made exclusively from grapes grown on the
As the days grow shorter, come in from the cold and indulge yourself on a luxurious break. Whether it’s a blustery beach walk or a gourmet dining experience you fancy, there is a hotel for every occasion this season
Text by Natalie Paris
lawn. Vinophiles can take a vineyard tour with a glass of Classic Cuvee, while those wanting to get their hands dirty should look out for the hotel’s community picking days at harvest time.
Doubles from £347, including breakfast, lympstonemanor.co.uk
St Moritz, Cornwall
Ease yourself into winter as the nights grow darker at the St Moritz hotel, with the opening of its sleek new multimillion pound spa. This beacon of wellness and coastal living situated in Trebetherick, offers Cowshed spa packages (the only Cowshed Spa outside of Soho House properties – and the only coastal one in the UK) for the ultimate relaxation break. Fused with Miamiinspired, striped motifs the new spa includes an indoor pool, a swim-out hydro pool, a crystal steam room, a Nordic and traditional sauna, an elemental ice fountain, a drench bucket and experience showers to allow for hot- and cold-water therapy sessions. Packages include daily spa treatments, locally-sourced meals at the Shorecrest restaurant, allyou-can-devour breakfast and the chance to try surfing lessons or sea-life trips to view puffins, seals, dolphins, porpoises and whales. Guests can also charter a RIB themselves, for a private exploration of local bays. St Moritz is spread above Polzeath, offering 48 rooms, self-catered coastal villas and apartments, with varying sea views.
Double rooms from £150, including breakfast, stmoritzhotel.co.uk
Port Lympne, Kent
Children can get into the Halloween spirit at Port Lympne, as the upmarket safari camp offers pumpkin-inspired fun during the October half-term. At any time, children can learn to be an animal keeper for the day or enjoy a behindthe-scenes animal encounter. They can help the keepers scatter treats for animals too. The park’s newest accommodation is The Lookout Bubble, close to the lion enclosure. Children will love stargazing through its transparent ceiling during dark winter nights. There are also boutique hotel rooms, treehouses and lodges to try. Christmas at Port Lympne involves songs from a choir, a visit from Father Christmas, festive films, food and exclusive safari access.
Doubles from £269 a night, including breakfast, aspinallfoundation.org
BEST FOR AUTUMN FOLIAGE
Storrs Hall, Windermere
Sink into a cedarwood hot tub, positioned just above Windermere, for picture-perfect views of autumn’s changing colours. The lake’s shores are a blaze of auburn, russet and gold at this time of year, and the hot tubs – there is one outside each lodge – give guests the chance to admire them while enjoying an indulgent soak. The hotel has its own jetty, for leaf-peeping boat tours of the lake, and there are roaring fires in the hotel lounges to cosy up beside afterwards. Dine at the Lake Edge Restaurant before enjoying a nightcap in the atmospheric, mahogany Tower Bar.
Doubles from £253, including breakfast, storrshall.com
BEST FOR SOLO TRAVELLERS
Bovey Castle, Devon
Pick up a new hobby at Bovey Castle, nestled among the forests of Dartmoor, where you could learn to drive a 4WD off-road, practise yoga, shoot an air rifle or even try your hand at beekeeping. Solo travellers are well looked after at the hotel, with a raft of activities for guests to enjoy as part of a group or alongside an instructor. Golfers can work on their stroke on the 18-hole championship course or there is an Elan spa to relax in. Best of all, there are bedrooms for singles that don’t involve paying a double-room supplement. Dine at a choice of two restaurants.
Doubles from £149 a night, not including breakfast, boveycastle.com
Babington House, Somerset
Before Soho Farmhouse there was Babington House, Soho House’s first rural outpost. Sitting between country lanes not far from the pretty village of Mells and the trendy town of Bruton, this fun-loving hotel is ideal for groups who are looking to celebrate. In the grounds of the Georgian honey-stone hotel are two lodges that accommodate groups of four or six. The Cabin is rustic chic and set beside a lake, while the Lodge is a two-storey cottage
on the edge of the rambling estate. During winter, guests will appreciate the hotel’s blazing fires, the twinkly, well-stocked bar and the inviting Cowshed spa. Bath is half-an-hour’s drive away and has an atmospheric Christmas market, from 28 November to 15 December.
Doubles from £360 a night, not including breakfast, for nonmembers (plus a £100 ‘Friends of Soho House’ fee). sohohouse.com
This corner of Pembrokeshire is a natural larder, stocked with tempting food and drink at any time of year, but especially when the Narberth Food Festival comes to town. At the end of September, Welsh produce is celebrated over two days during the festival, which has run for 24 years and is just five minutes from The Grove of Narberth. The hotel has a boutique feel and a fine restaurant in The Fernery, which showcases quality, local ingredients in its seasonal dishes under executive chef Douglas Balish. A seven-course tasting menu is available. For more informal dining, try the charming Artisan Brasserie. Picnics and afternoon teas are also available for guests.
Doubles from £220 a night, including breakfast, grovenarberth.co.uk
Loch Rannoch, Scotland
Drink in autumn’s splendour in forested glens near Loch Rannoch with your best buddy. The Loch Rannoch Hotel and Spa invites dogs and their owners to come and explore the glorious Highlands – with views across to a golden-leaf-cloaked Munro. In autumn, stags will be roaring, so keep furry friends on a leash. Pooches are welcome to stay in certain Contemporary class rooms, where they are given a dog bed, towel, water bowl and treats (for a £20 charge). They are allowed in the Wild Brownie Bar but not in the drawing room or the hotel’s two smarter restaurants. Guests can relish the fresh air with kayaking trips, wild swims, or afternoons spent cycling or paddleboarding on the loch’s calm water. Treatments are by ESPA.
Doubles from £118, including breakfast, lochrannochhotel.com
BEST FOR A CULTURAL CITY BREAK
The Corinthia, London
As Christmas approaches, a city break in England’s capital is hard to beat. The Corinthia is a chic hotel that gets decked out beautifully for the festive season and has a rooftop terrace (complete with firepits) offering views of London twinkling merrily at night. Shoppers will have the city’s finest stores close to hand and will appreciate the high-quality service afforded to them by staff at this time. Although plans for winter 2024 have yet to be finalised, in the past this has included special concierge services and festive pop-up shops. Theatreland is also close by for guests with tickets to pantomimes or West End shows.
Double rooms from £846 a night, including breakfast, corinthia.com
Autumn's food produce makes it a great season for foraging, and WildLuing is somewhere offering real immersion in the countryside. The low-key but luxurious development consists of eight individual suites embedded into a hillside on the remote island of Luing. Set between them is the Observatory, WildLuing's hub, with an open-plan kitchen-dining room and windows from which to spot otters in Torsa Bay below.
In October, food and whisky enthusiasts can indulge in a curated weekend of feasting and whisky tasting with an expert from Nc'nean Distillery, who will talk about sustainable whisky production. A feast of Luing Beef and fresh seafood from Ballintaggart chefs follows, while in the morning, guests can join a masterclass in how to cook fish and local seafood. Foraging courses are possible at other times.
Suites from £350 for two people, 4–6 October, not including feasting or classes; wildluing.com
Step aboard Fingal, a hotel with all the glamour and style of a super yacht but with an old world elegance that is completely unique. of hosts to
TRIPADVISOR’S NO.1 UK LUXURY HOTEL & NO.1 UK SMALL & BOUTIQUE HOTEL. AA HOTEL OF THE YEAR SCOTLAND
For over 30 years The Carter Company has delivered authentic walking and cycling tours that uncover the hidden secrets, as well as the highlights, of historic Britain. All our tours are individually crafted and self-guided with flexible start dates so you can explore at your own pace. With local hosts to welcome you and hand-picked accommodation from traditional inns to luxury castles - we take care of every detail.
Hadrian’s Wall … The English Lake District … Devon and Cornwall … The Cotswolds … The Yorkshire Dales … Dorset and The New Forest… The Thames … The Scottish Highlands and Islands … Wales Coasts and Mountains … Kent www.the-carter-company.com + 44 (0) 1296 631671 hello@the-carter-company.com
With nearly 20,000 miles of diverse coasts, our charming wild isles are teeming with natural beauty, maritime traditions and some of the most unique diving in the world
Text by Danielle Schofield
Scenic reefs and historic shipwrecks are havens for boundless shoals of fish and other British marine life, from seahorses, crustaceans and octopuses to dolphins, seals and basking sharks.
Indulge your wellbeing and wanderlust with an escape into exclusive, unfiltered scuba experiences. With endless possibilities for aspiring and seasoned divers, these destinations connect the best of luxury travel with breathtaking underwater vistas.
From secluded Porthkerris Cove, you can discover one of the UK’s prettiest beach dives, explore shallow shipwrecks and encounter cuttlefish, thornback rays and dolphins. The Manacles’ jewel-encrusted pinnacles and allegedly haunted SS Mohegan are an adventurers’ playground, while seasonal basking shark trips present a chance to snorkel with gentle giants.
Dive with: Porthkerris Divers; porthkerris.com
Stay at: The Polurrian, a contemporary clifftop retreat overlooking the Lizard’s dramatic coastline; polurrianhotel.com
Remarkable geology is only a hint of this World Heritage Site’s allure. Chesil Beach and Swanage Pier are renowned shore dives where colourful critters enchant first-time divers and underwater photographers alike. The Dredger joins a catalogue of beginner-friendly shipwrecks, while advanced divers wax lyrical about the M2 submarine.
Dive with: Old Harbour Dive Centre; oldharbourdivecentre.co.uk
Stay at: The Pig on the Beach, where uninterrupted coastal panoramas meet locally sourced, kitchengarden cuisine; thepighotel.com/on-the-beach
This remote island set in the Bristol Channel is a sanctuary for wildlife and National Heritage List wrecks. It’s also one of the premier dive sites for unforgettable encounters with grey seals; these curious pinnipeds won’t hesitate to give your fins a playful nibble.
Dive with: Easy Divers; easydiversnorthdevon.co.uk
Stay at: Watersmeet, where beachside rooms promise stunning sea views across to Lundy on the horizon; watersmeethotel.co.uk
With a rich naval backstory, Britain’s Ocean City is home to many unique dive sites, including ex-warship HMS Scylla, now a flourishing artificial reef, and the Eddystone Lighthouse. Accessible shore dives and shipwrecks alongside ample waterside amenities will satiate each step of your underwater journey.
Dive with: Plymouth Diving Centre; plymouthdivingcentre.co.uk
Stay at: Boringdon Hall, a quintessential Devonshire manor with Michelin-star dining and a wellness spa; boringdonhall.co.uk
If you’re unsure about diving into cooler water, then step into Jersey’s inviting, glassy seas, which reach a balmy 20°C. Competent divers can fly along with the island’s exhilarating currents, while plentiful sheltered bays and easily reached shipwrecks like La Mauve and MV Heron will welcome beginners.
Dive with: Bouley Bay Dive Centre; scubadivingjersey.com
Stay at: Longueville Manor, an underrated jewel in Jersey’s countryside, with refined gardens and enchanting woodland walks; longuevillemanor.com
Skomer Island is famed for puffins, dolphins and seals, but you’ll discover a myriad of flora and fauna below its protected shoreline. Hundreds of shipwrecks are scattered around this Welsh wonderland; the MV Lucy is a deep diver's favourite. On the mainland, St Brides and Martin’s Haven offer picturesque beach dives for every ability.
Dive with: Haven Diving Services; havendivingservices.com
Stay at: Grove of Narbeth, where rural Welsh tradition takes on a modern twist; grovenarberth.co.uk
Spread over 36 acres, this inland flooded quarry is an ideal training ground, designed with swimmers, snorkellers and divers in mind. Underwater attractions include a helicopter, quarry crushing works and freshwater fish aplenty, while seasonal activities range from Halloween night diving to Scuba Santas.
Dive with: Vobster Quay; vobster.com
Stay at: Number One Bruton, an elegant Georgian townhouse ideally situated for Vobster, Bath, and Somerset’s landmarks; numberonebruton.com
A gateway to the beautiful Inner Hebrides, this undulating coastline hosts an abundance of delights for first-time and experienced divers. Explore the intact SS Breda and Rondo wrecks, behold fascinating creatures lurking in sea lochs and look out for visiting basking sharks in the summer.
Dive with: Puffin Dive Centre; puffin.org.uk
Stay at: No. 26 By The Sea exudes high-end, Highland style with picture-perfect ocean views; no26bythesea.com
An inland diving hub for over 60 years, this flooded quarry contains a series of platforms graded for novices and beyond, and a thriving population of freshwater crayfish. A 400-year-old Elizabethan shipwreck is a treat for underwater archaeologists, while qualified divers can visit a real diving bell in the deepest part. Dive with: Stoney Cove; stoneycove.com
Stay at: Kilworth House, an exquisite Victorian estate where an open-air woodland theatre enhances the sense of occasion; kilworthhouse.co.uk
In the Scottish Borders, rugged cliffs drop into crystalline waters where you’ll find some of the UK’s best shore diving and snorkelling. At the ethereal Cathedral Rock, sunlight dances through tunnels while craggy walls and crevices are blanketed with vibrant invertebrates. Lucky divers may even spot the elusive wolffish.
Dive with: Deep Blue Scuba; deepbluescuba.co.uk
Stay at: Fingal, a floating hotel which blends a luxury Edinburgh city break with the spirit of the sea; fingal.co.uk
Although there’s no diving at Giant’s Causeway, the 33-mile coastline neighbouring this UNESCO-listed site is characterised by striking scenery and dives to suit all skills. Try scuba by the Carrick-a-Rede bridge, play hide-and-seek with seals in kelp forests or traverse Rathlin Island and the HMS Drake wreck.
Dive with: Aquaholics; aquaholics.co.uk
Stay at: The Bushmills Inn, a quietly luxurious Causeway Coast hotel that’s enriched with Irish heritage; bushmillsinn.com
Learning to dive leads to transformational opportunities and a lifelong passport to explore and protect our blue planet. With world-class instructors and over 180 dive shops across the UK, PADI® has developed the training gold standard for safe scuba diving and underwater exploration. From try dives and the PADI Open Water Diver certification to wreck and night diving or other advanced courses, there are options for all ages and skill levels, and you can even begin online before you travel. Immerse yourself in a deeper purpose; learn more at padi.com.
Steeped in wartime history, Scapa Flow is one of the world’s finest wreck-diving destinations. Exploring the scuttled WWI German High Seas Fleet, particularly its three leviathan battleships, is humbling. It’s not just for technical divers, though; the Churchill Barriers and surrounding reefs make an unparalleled backdrop for scuba tasters.
Dive with: Kraken Diving; krakendiving.co.uk
Stay at: The Kirkwall Hotel, where authentic harbourside slumbers are a stone’s throw from Scapa; kirkwallhotel.com
This small archipelago near Bamburgh has spectacular reefs and wrecks galore for every interest. Even so, the star attraction is its infamous colony of around 5,000 grey seals. Certified divers can enrich their experience by taking a Grey Seal Awareness course to learn more about these frolicsome mammals.
Dive with: Aquanorth Diving Centre; aquanorth.co.uk
Stay at: The Tempus, a stylish boutique hotel close to Northumberland Coast's Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty; thetempus.co.uk
Embark on a remarkable journey back in time and experience the opulent grandeur of Palé Hall, a true gem nestled in the serene Dee Valley of Wales. British Travel Journal visits for a fairy-tale weekend and meets the new owners who have some significant plans in the pipeline
Text by Jessica Way
‘Set against the breathtaking backdrop of Snowdonia, Palé Hall is an idyllic and immaculately restored estate amid the picturesque Welsh countryside.’
Grade II-listed Victorian country house Palé Hall is Wales’ most sought-after staycation destination. It exudes a timeless allure that seamlessly intertwines modern luxury with a wealth of original features from when it was a family home back in the 1870s. Set against the breathtaking backdrop of Snowdonia, Palé Hall is an idyllic and immaculately restored 50-acre estate amid the picturesque Welsh countryside. Add to this, the property’s deep-rooted history and numerous
enhancements introduced by new owners Anthony and Donna Barney, whose exciting visions and aspirations for the future will continue its legacy, and there’s perhaps never been a better time to visit.
We stayed in Harper’s Barn, an impressive two-bedroom double-storey conversion with a kitchen and dining area big enough for entertaining a gathering of at least a dozen or so friends, an enormous primary bedroom with an en-suite bathroom and luxurious roll-top bath, and a stunning openplan living area with striking full-height exposed beams.
‘On the ground floor sundeck is a hot tub ideal for stargazing or relaxing the muscles after a long hike; for us, it was the perfect reward after reaching the summit and defeating Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon).’
Light floods through the floor-to-ceiling glass, and stepping out onto the balcony terrace there are views of the garden and surrounding hills. On the ground floor sundeck is a hot tub ideal for stargazing or relaxing the muscles after a long hike, for us; it was the perfect reward after reaching the summit and defeating Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon).
Inside the illustrious country house there are 22 more rooms, each uniquely designed with distinctive charm. The Victoria Room, aptly named after the Queen who once stayed there, features the original bath and antique bed
used during her visit, still fit for royalty. Other garden suites include Hillside Cottage, the Fern Suite, and the Bracken Suite, each beautifully restored from Palé Hall’s original Victorian Coach House.
Shortly after checking in, we met General Manager Debbie Cappadona, who oversees the running of the 5-star hotel.
Debbie has been instrumental in the hotel’s previous expansion and Michelin awards and now shares the bold ambitions of the hotel’s new owners for future developments.
Further expansion plans include launching a new restaurant, adding a new multisensory immersive spa with an
organic dining area, a sculpture trail, Chauffer-driven Rolls Royce guided tours, and in time, increasing the number of hotel bedrooms and introducing garden suites.
We were fortunate enough to enjoy a coffee with Tony and Donna in the exquisite Four Seasons room, just two weeks after they had acquired Palé Hall. Their passion for their acquisition was infectious; they aim for big things in the coming years. In the brief period since buying the hotel, Tony and Donna have wasted no time renewing the property with fresh paint, hanging up new chandeliers, and adorning the walls with artwork from talented French and African artists discovered during their world travels. Most recently they have purchased a neighbouring olde worlde country pub, The Bryntirion Inn, situated at the bottom of the hotel’s drive, and once sympathetically refurbished, will add to their estate offering, and with locals in mind.
Tony shared a fascinating story about the hidden Victorian railway located at the bottom of the hotel's woodland garden, running alongside the river. He recently acquired a train from Marwell Zoo and is excited about the prospect of restoring the railway to working order for the enjoyment of future hotel guests.
It was a delightful surprise to discover that Tony grew up in the same village we live in. When he displayed a photo of the train on his phone our daughters immediately recognised it – they had enjoyed riding it numerous times when they were young. We had many enjoyable conversations, sharing our local knowledge and fondness for both Hampshire and Gwynedd. We could have easily chatted with Donna and Tony all afternoon; however, we had our own train to catch!
Situated within an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, Llangollen Railway is a 10-mile Heritage Railway Line from Llangollen to Corwen, passing through the picturesque Dee Valley. The line features five stations, each offering charming walks with stunning scenery. You can Dine on the Line, indulging in a delightful afternoon tea against a backdrop of breathtaking views, and as the sun sets, there are evening
trains with distinctive themed including the Real Ale Train and The Gin Train.
For a unique railway experience closer to the hotel, the Bala Lake Railway operates narrow-gauge steam trains that were originally slate quarry locomotives. The 4.5-mile track runs alongside the picturesque lakeshore, leading to the delightful period station at Llanuwchllyn. It's a truly relaxing way to enjoy the beauty of Bala Lake.
There are many surrounding walking routes too, nestled among deeply wooded valleys, with river walks and spectacular waterfalls. Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park
offers over 800 square miles of diverse landscapes and is not only home to Wales’ highest mountain, Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon), but also to many stunning lakes, such as Llyn Padarn in Llanberis; and beautiful villages, including Beddgelert and Betws-y-Coed; not to mention the canals; and the Slate Trail, which recently became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It is not far to visit the UK’s quirkiest village either: Portmeirion in Gwynedd, known for its charming and colourful architecture. For adventure seekers, the nearby Zip World offers the world's fastest zipline, Europe's longest zipline, and the UK's only alpine coaster through the trees.
Our final evening was spent indulging in gastronomic delights in the renowned Michelin Green Star Henry Robertson restaurant, where Head Chef Sam Griffiths (Welsh chef of the year) has elevated the dining experience to unparalleled heights.
With its fresh perspectives and plans in the pipeline, commitment to sustainability and a rich tapestry of history and modernity, Palé Hall promises an enchanting sojourn that transcends the ordinary.
Prices from £320 for an overnight stay based on two sharing a Classic Room, including breakfast; palehall.co.uk, pobhotels.com
British Travel Journal explores city roaming in Exeter, a Roman city with Georgian architecture, surrounded by the lush countryside of Devon
Text by Adrian Mourby
Illustrations
by Karen Katon-Oprey
homes for 12 infirm paupers and priests. These sandstone buildings suffered much damage in the Civil War (1642–51) as they lay outside the city walls that were besieged by Royalist forces. The houses were extensively restored in a historic style during the 1860s.
Now head west on Magdalen Street and then turn right on to Southernhay, one of the most attractive 18thcentury streets in Exeter, just beyond the old city walls. Even the new-build Mercure Southgate Hotel matches its historic style.
Head north past the old Royal Devon and Exeter Hospital, which was founded in 1741 and built in a grand combination of red brick and white quoins. A group of local gentlemen funded the project and in 1899 the Duke of York, our future George V, visited and bestowed its royal title. Since 1974 the hospital has relocated outside the old city but this palatial building remains as offices,
Exeter is the gateway to two of Britain’s favourite counties, Devon and Cornwall. The M5 ends here. From now on, holidaymakers and their surfboards are on their own, trundling down ever narrower A-roads and getting stuck in hedges when a car is coming in the other direction.
But Exeter is a city well worth visiting in its own right. It was founded by the Romans on a cliff above the River Exe and its medieval cathedral was built on the site of a long-abandoned legionary fortress that had its own luxury bathhouses. The line of Roman walls can still be traced today with around 70% of the walls still standing.
Start this walk outside Wynyard’s Almshouses, opposite the Hotel du Vin on Magdalen Street.
William Wynard was a wealthy Exeter citizen who founded this quadrangle of houses in 1435 to provide
‘Princesshay is also home to Exeter's Underground Passages attraction, giving visitors a guided tour of the 14th-century subterranean passageways that used to transport water under the city centre.’
Now follow signs to the Cathedral, turning left under the Burnet-Patch Bridge. This wrought-iron structure (the first pedestrian bridge in Exeter) was built in 1814 and covers a gap in the city walls that was created in 1753 when a crumbling 13thcentury tower was demolished. The lack of a tower made access to the cathedral easier, but it also meant that whenever the mayor of Exeter did his annual procession around the city walls at Michaelmas, he had to clamber down the wall and then up again. In 1814, Mayor Burnet-Patch commissioned this innovatory , delicate bridge to span the gap.
A few yards later, the Cathedral Church of St Peter comes into view, an impressive sight because the buildings that once leaned against it have been cleared, leaving just lawns.
The first Norman-style cathedral on this site was constructed on the remains of a Roman fortress in 1050 but it was significantly rebuilt around 1400. The cathedral now has the longest uninterrupted medieval vaulted ceiling in the world. It also has an astronomical clock and a rare minstrels’ gallery. The overall style would be classed as Decorated Gothic (seamlessly restored after the bomb blasts of World War II) but with two huge Romanesque towers that survived from the Norman period.
Leaving the Cathedral Yard by Broadgate, turn right into High Street. Much of Exeter was badly bombed in the first of Hitler’s 'Baedeker' Raids. These attacks attempted to break British morale by targeting cities of great historical and cultural, rather than strategic, importance. (Oxford was spared because Hitler wanted it for his new British capital.) Exeter’s new High Street shows how much of the medieval city had to be rebuilt, but its historic Guildhall, supported by four sturdy granite columns, remains, as does the Turk’s Head Inn next door.
The Turk’s Head is recognised as one of the oldest pubs in Exeter and there is every reason to believe that originally it had the decapitated head of a Turkish warrior from the crusades hanging outside. But the current building is mid-Victorian and is said to have provided a place of inspiration and creativity for Charles Dickens who frequented the pub when he took his reading tours on the road, and even had his own corner where he would pen his timeless novels.
Continue north east up High Street to Castle Street and then turn right at the Roman East Gate, now just a ruin but an indication of how condensed was the Roman
Above the Exe Valley sits this old Victorian eye hospital converted by the ever-imaginative Hotel du Vin group into an imposing place to stay. It’s also a popular wedding venue with a bright, tropical-style, new-build dining room and circular lawn.
hotelduvin.com
Be welcomed with a Malfy Rosa & Tonic at The Turks Head – one of the region's oldest pubs and a favourite watering hole of Charles Dickens – or so we believe. Recently restored to its former glory, this traditional pub with rooms has over 700 years of history and is located in the heart of the city.
turksheadexeter.com
Lovingly restored and converted from the former House of Fraser department store, this 104-bedroom hotel has been designed around three themes reflecting the vibrance and style of Exeter's historic neighbourhood – The House That Moved, Colson's Department Store and Cathedral Heritage. There's a rooftop bar with views of Exeter Cathedral, a spa and even a nail bar and lounge serving Champagne.
exeter.hotelindigo.com
Located in Exeter’s historic Quayside Quarter, the Quay Climbing Centre is the South West’s largest indoor climbing centre, with two boulder caves, 81 roped walls, and expert coaches. quayclimbingcentre.co.uk
This traditional country pub is located on the banks of the 16th-century Ship Canal with the biggest beer garden in Exeter. You can’t beat the location and walk-ins are always welcome. doublelocks.com –
In 1961 a medieval timber-framed house was prised up by its foundations and carefully moved out of the way of a new bypass. This event inspired the 1978 Puffin Books classic by David Rees called The House that Moved. It is now a bridal shop. pirouettethecollection.com
city of Isca Dumnoniorum.
–Exeter Quayside
Make sure to visit the picturesque Exeter Quayside during your trip. This charming part of the city was granted Heritage Harbour status in 2021, making it a must-see destination for history and culture enthusiasts. With its stunning waterfront views, historic buildings, and vibrant atmosphere, a stroll along the Exeter Quayside offers a delightful blend of natural beauty and rich heritage
visitexeter.com
Women’s Rugby World Cup
Rugby fans, be sure to mark your calendars for the Women’s Rugby World Cup in 2025. This prestigious event will take place in Exeter, and the excitement will unfold at the renowned Sandy Park stadium. Don't miss this incredible opportunity to witness top-tier women's rugby action in the heart of the city.
visitexeter.com
Quayside Distillery
From here, turn south down Eastgate and then right into Princesshay, with its famous statue of the Blue Boy.
This statue's origins date back to 1733. It was modelled on George Wall, an ex-student of St John’s Hospital School that used to be based on the High Street. The original stone statue was based on the 'bluecoat' uniform worn by pupils to indicate their charitable status.
St John's Hospital School was demolished in 1880 to make way for a post office, but a Blueboy statue was rescued when the post office was destroyed during the Blitz in 1942. In 1949 Princess Elizabeth unveiled a brand-new shopping centre on this site, which was named Princesshay in her honour and a Blueboy was reinstated.
Princesshay is also home to Exeter's Underground Passages attraction, giving visitors a guided tour of the 14-century subterranean passageways that used to transport water under the city centre – these are the only passages of this kind open to the public in Britain!
At the end of Princesshay turn left into Bedford Street, which takes you to Roman Walk, a route along the old city walls that returns you to South Gate and Magdalen Street.
Craft your own personalised gin using innovative distilling methods. Then, to add to the charm, Quayside Distillery have recently introduced their very own floating pontoon on the canal, providing a picturesque setting to enjoy your handcrafted gin while taking in the waterside views.
quaysidedistillery.co.uk
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Zeal Hotel Exeter
Set to open in January 2025 just outside Exeter, Zeal Hotel Exeter is anticipated to be a groundbreaking 142-bedroom netzero carbon hotel – the first to open under the banner of Zeal Hotels. Embracing an eco-conscious approach, Zeal Hotels aims to redefine hospitality with its focus on sustainability and environmental responsibility. Their promise is to offer guests a mindfully modern experience, combining luxury with a commitment to minimising carbon footprint.
zealhotels.com
Enter for your chance to win an overnight stay in one of the most inspiring independent hotels across the British Isles, receiving a £250 PoB Hotels gift voucher and opening the door to a luxury experience...
Covering everywhere from the Scottish Highlands to the Channel Island of Jersey, PoB Hotels has a handpicked collection of the most captivating independent hotels across the country. Whether you're looking for a city-based retreat, a tranquil countryside escape, or a coastal bolthole, PoB Hotels offers unrivalled service, unique experiences and the finest destinations.
British Travel Journal has teamed up with PoB Hotels to offer you the chance to win a £250 gift voucher to spend on a beautiful PoB Hotel of your choice. Meaning, you no longer need
only to imagine indulging in the luxurious charm of PoB Hotels’ carefully selected properties and could instead be experiencing their renowned hospitality firsthand.
Established in 1982 by a small group of British hoteliers, PoB Hotels has flourished and proudly represents over 50 beautifully unique properties across the UK. Each hotel within their collection is distinct, yet they all share a common commitment to delivering exceptional hospitality. If you have had the pleasure of experiencing any of their member hotels, you can be assured that the same level of excellence awaits you at any other PoB Hotel.
Through meticulous selection and annual inspections, PoB Hotels strives to make their brand a guarantee of quality, ensuring that you will enjoy the finest properties, dining, and hospitality that Britain’s leading luxury and boutique hotel collection has to offer.
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Enter via our website britishtraveljournal.com/ competitions. To find out more about PoB Hotels visit pobhotels.com. Last entries 31 December 2024. Voucher to be used before 31 December 2025. Over 18s only.
Text by Natalie Millar-Partridge
After the brilliantly eye-opening reality TV show Clarkson’s Farm, we’re all more aware of the diversification needed for a working farm to survive. The UK has seen a huge transition over recent years, with field-to-fork dining as a concept increasing hugely in popularity, along with trend-driven farmhouse stays with design-led interiors having something of a moment.
One such farmhouse stay can be found at The Farm at Avebury – a gorgeous dog- and child-friendly working farm – with a contemporary edge, set in the beautiful Wiltshire countryside. Cleverly combining stunning interiors and exquisite design within a rural setting, it’s a welcoming space – a peaceful spot to enjoy roaring fires, toasted
marshmallows, Ridgeway walks and far-reaching views. This is a base to explore the historic Avebury World Heritage Site, with a choice of wellness experiences and retreats held in the barn. It's also a place to celebrate, and a space to find calm and reconnect with nature. From the moment I arrived – greeted by the large neon-pink sign in the courtyard, reassuring me ‘This Must be The Place’– I felt a genuine sense of warmth and authenticity, with cut flowers and fresh farmhouse produce left in my cosy Stable room.
The working farm, run by Alice and Rob Hues, is home to small herds of Aberdeen Angus cows, as well as Highlands and Belted Galloways. Then there are the adorable pigs – a glorious mix of OSB, Berkshire and Landrace Duroc – in the woods. There are also a handful of bottle-fed lambs who go
on to graze in the Play Orchard; they're incredibly tame – I was smitten when they bounded up to me. Above all, I loved that the focus is on welfare and reducing food miles, rather than organic certification, with any supplement food coming from the butcher in Avebury.
This year celebrates 100 years of the Hues Family farming the land in Avebury, where life on the farm is governed by the harvest, adapting and thriving over the century it has been
in existence. In a landscape where a lot of the history has remained unchanged for thousands of years, it is fascinating to think about how much has progressed since the Hues started farming in 1924. Alice and Rob are fortunate to have
Great Granny Sue living in the village, who at 96 remembers the house being bitterly cold without central heating – having to break ice in the jug before washing. Every July, her husband Roger used to go out into the fields, rub the crop between
his palms and then bite a grain to see if it would crack and crunch – if it did, it’s time to harvest – you can still find Rob using the same technique.
The last decade has seen a recognition of the value of soil as a store of carbon and nutrients; with this comes an increasing pressure to farm in a more environmentally sustainable way. With the world of farming evolving, Alice and Rob are working hard to build a diversified business
‘The colour and vibrancy surrounding the farm is reflected in the interiors – the brief being to have fun, go bold on colour and work in the character of the stable block, farmyard and natural landscape.’
that will survive and hopefully thrive in the next decade and beyond, allowing their children to feel connected to the land and inspired by the life that comes with farming.
One of the ways in which the farm has diversified is through The Stables – used to house chickens before being repurposed – opening for guests in 2021. Though the structure of the walls remain, it was otherwise fully gutted and reroofed, with the original stable structure guiding the dimensions of the spaces.
Now a place to soak up a fresh and contemporary take on farmhouse style, the six luxury self-catering stable homes – each beautifully and individually styled by interior designer
Polly Ashman – cluster around a landscaped courtyard with pockets of seating discreetly nestled among the large corten-planters. Inside, the spaces are filled with characterful colour schemes, large oak beams, panelling, oak ladders to mezzanines, Ca’Pietra tiling and playful artwork by Georgie Weedon and Becky Borthwick. With its coir matting floor, the shared boot room between stables is the perfect space to hang wet gear, take off muddy boots and dry damp dogs after their walkies.
The colour and vibrancy surrounding the farm is reflected in the interiors – the brief being to have fun, go bold on colour and work in the character of the stable block, farmyard and natural landscape. Quality secondhand and vintage furniture and accessories were sourced, along with hardwearing furnishings and fabrics able to withstand wear and tear of guests. Where possible, Alice sourced from local businesses and artisans, along with artwork and soft furnishings from Wiltshire-based artists and makers.
I stayed in Long Barrow, a dreamy base, flooded with light, where a mezzanine level with huge exposed beams is
‘The Farm provides a peaceful and immersive environment to embrace rural life... inviting a slower pace to breathe in the fresh air and watch the landscape unfold with time to reflect and rebuild for busy lives back home.’
perfectly balanced by a sumptuous living space – light and lofty with natural materials and lots of personal touches. The bathroom's aesthetic features a Victoria Plum sink and brass Art-Deco-inspired mirror, set against Farrow & Ball ‘Sulking Room Pink’ walls. Downstairs, eBay finds are fused with Pooky lampshades, chunky original beams, painted wood cladding and eye-grabbing prints from Graham & Green. Alice has an infectious enthusiasm for what she and her team have created, which is a zesty, warm and versatile farmhouse space with a home-from-home vibe.
It was a joy to watch the days play out across the courtyard – the farm offering versatility in abundance, providing the perfect space for multigenerational families gathering, or even for participants in yoga retreats to reflect around a firepit. The Stables and communal areas were designed without compromise, welcoming couples retreating for the weekend, groups celebrating an occasion and families with four-legged friends into the same joyous spaces.
‘... I took part in a Wim Hof Method workshop in the renovated barn... not only for cold-water immersion, but also as a tool to bring into everyday life. ’
During my stay, I took part in a Wim Hof Method workshop in the renovated barn, offering a deep dive into the profound use of breathwork, not only for cold-water immersion, but also as a tool to bring into everyday life.
The insightful four-hour workshop took us on an awakening journey, practising breathing techniques designed to calm the nervous system. We then took the art of breathwork to the ice bath in the calming courtyard setting – after a two-minute immersion, I was astounded at how energised and invigorated I felt!
Outside of the courtyard gates, fascinating Neolithic history surrounds the farm on its 800-acres of land, nestled beneath the North Downs within Avebury World Heritage Site – the West Kennet Long Barrow is a rare excavated example of a 5000-year-old burial site. Avebury Stone Circle itself – a lesser known cousin to Stonehenge – is set within a quintessentially English village, with a shop, a National Trust cafe and even a pub within the Circle.
Whether celebrating the energy at solstice, or just
enjoying the incredible stone structures, it’s an awe-inspiring place to visit.
The Farm provides a peaceful and immersive environment to embrace rural life, with the considered surrounds of The Stables inviting a slower pace to breathe in the fresh air and watch the landscape unfold with time to reflect and rebuild for busy lives back home. Above all, it’s a place to celebrate nature and find some inner calm as we edge towards the slow days of winter.
Prices for a night at The Stables at The Farm at Avebury start from £109 with a minimum two nights' stay. Dog-friendly rooms available and workshops are bookable via the website; thefarmatavebury.co.uk
ers et
Abundant in natural beauty, this West Country county is a captivating collage of historic towns, lush countryside and ancient apple orchards. Brimming with artisan cheese, cider, and so much more, its teeming larder is reflected in a wealth of excellent places to eat, drink and be merry. British Travel Journal discovers where the foodies flock to in Somerset
Text by Sophie Farrah
Our culinary caper begins in the picturesque Somerset village of South Petherton, not far from Yeovil. Having established several successful restaurants in London, Nicholas Balfe relocated here in 2021 and opened Holm in the imposing honey-coloured stone walls of a former bank. Driven by provenance, seasonality and sustainability, Balfe’s creative, thoughtful menu pays homage to the county’s natural bounty. The Westcombe Cheddar fries are famous for a reason (they’re absolutely delicious) and sit alongside the likes of delicate cured trout with peas and elderflower from Holm's pretty vegetable garden, and delicious desserts made using local ingredients such as milk, honey and rosemary.
There is exquisite attention to detail throughout both the menu and the building itself. Guests can relax amongst the contemporary artwork and pleasing plaster walls of the restaurant or grab a seat at the bar and watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. There’s a well-curated wine list, and the team are incredibly welcoming too.
Unveiled in 2023, Holm features seven stylish, spacious en-suite bedrooms above the restaurant; a collaboration between Balfe and interior designer Decca Lang. Named after British trees, these soothing, cosy spaces feature soft
‘Somerset might not be the first place that springs to mind when it comes to vineyards, but it should be. The year 2024 marks the 50th anniversary of the vines at Wraxall Vineyard... one of the oldest in the county.’
Egyptian cotton sheets, bathroom products by Haeckels and well-stocked minibars. Before setting off, Holm’s bountiful, multicourse breakfast provides one final delicious treat.
Somerset might not be the first place that springs to mind when it comes to vineyards, but it should be. 2024 marks the 50th anniversary of the vines at Wraxall Vineyard’s small but perfectly formed 15-acre site near Shepton Mallet, making it one of the oldest in the county. It currently produces a small selection of sparkling and still wines, including the delicious (and award-winning) Bacchus Reserve 2022.
The vineyard’s new and impressive architecturally designed bar and restaurant hosts tours and tastings and serves a tempting menu of wine, small plates, and local cheese and charcuterie, as well as hosting regular supper clubs and events. It’s a modern yet cosy space with a lovely terrace and breathtaking views across the vines and rolling countryside beyond.
There’s also a smattering of chic self-catering cottages. The spacious and supremely comfortable Vine Cottage sleeps eight, making it ideal for a group trip. For something
smaller, it doesn’t get much more romantic than Old Winery Cottage No.1, where you can admire views of the vines from bed and relax in front of the wood-burning stove with a glass of Somerset sparkling in hand.
At nearby Castle Cary station, The Creamery is a brandnew trackside restaurant and dairy that sits right next to the platform. It’s the creation of the nearby Newt in Somerset, and is testament to the estate’s knack for storytelling, eye for design and acute attention to detail. Interiors are a chic and playful celebration of the golden age of rail travel; retro posters adorn the staircase and leather-clad booths are reminiscent of a vintage first-class carriage, while modern
screens displaying live train times are softened by original brickwork, colourful tiles and antique milk bottles.
The building was once a cheese factory, and The Newt has reinstated its former purpose; behind glass walls, diners can watch cheesemakers at work as they create a range of traditional cheese and yoghurt using fresh milk from the estate’s herd of water buffalo. The tasty results can be sampled in dishes such as mozzarella with olive oil, lemon zest, and focaccia; mushrooms with garlic and parsley
‘In nearby Batcombe, The Three Horseshoes is a picture-perfect 17th-century inn with cosy, rustic interiors and an idyllic village setting...’
hangop (a type of yoghurt cheese); and a halloumi-style Sutton Brue burger. Desserts are excellent too, especially the fresh buffalo-milk gelato with apple caramel sauce. Local cyder comes from The Newt while wines hail from its South African sister property, Babylonstoren.
Less than a 10-minute drive away, the estate’s stunning, sprawling gardens offer further opportunity for field-to-fork feasting, and once you’ve had your fill you can sleep it off in one of the deeply luxurious hotel bedrooms.
In nearby Batcombe, The Three Horseshoes is a pictureperfect 17th-century inn with cosy, rustic interiors and an idyllic village setting, but it’s the food that really gets hearts racing. At the helm is celebrated chef and cookery writer, Margot Henderson. The copatron of Rochelle Canteen (one of London’s finest) in Shoreditch, Henderson is a keen advocate of nose-to-tail cookery, and the menu here proves it. Hearty, hefty dishes like rabbit pie and mince on toast sit alongside sophisticated small plates, such as langoustines,
and local asparagus gribiche. You’ll want to save some room for one of the satisfying puddings, and perhaps some local cheese. There are five farmhouse-style bedrooms on the first floor of the pub, each one individually designed and decorated with antique furniture and eye-catching art, while generous super-king-sized beds provide welcome relief after indulging downstairs.
Likened to London's Notting Hill, the small, trendy market town of Bruton is dotted with an array of aesthetically pleasing restaurants, cafes and shops.
At The Chapel is a destination for locals and visitors alike, namely because of its in-house bakery that produces an array of unimaginably delicious, heavenly scented treats (don’t miss the doughnuts).
The restaurant here – a magnificent vaulted former chapel – is breathtaking. With towering lancet windows and a vast light installation twinkling overhead, this beautiful, buzzy space works well for a long brunch or a laid-back lunch or dinner. The chefs work closely with local organic producers, biodynamic growers, farmers and cheesemakers, and the pizzas from the bakery’s wood-fired oven are excellent – get one to takeaway and walk up to the Bruton Dovecote, if the weather allows.
The entire building – which is Grade II listed and dates back to the 17th century – is a stunning mix of old and new. There are eight bedrooms and each one is a masterclass in minimalism, as leaded windows and rustic wooden beams blend seamlessly with light wooden furniture and sleek marble bathrooms. The icing on the cake/doughnut? Fresh, flaky croissants are delivered to the bedrooms from the bakery each morning.
‘Artfarm... has recently reopened Roth Bar here – a new site-specific artwork that doubles up as a fully functioning bar... this unique, quirky spot consists of salvaged materials and objects from local reclamation yards, including old tools, paint cans, calculators, and more.’
Just outside Bruton lies Hauser & Wirth’s Somerset gallery, where you’ll not only find world-leading contemporary art but yet more terrific food and drink.
Artfarm (which also owns The Fife Arms in Scotland and London’s Mount St. Restaurant) has recently reopened Roth Bar here – a new site-specific artwork that doubles up as a
fully functioning bar. Inspired by the history of Durslade Farm (on which it sits), this unique, quirky spot consists of salvaged materials and objects from local reclamation yards, including old tools, paint cans, calculators, and more.
The drinks menu is similarly creative, using honey from the farm’s hives, flowers from the estate’s walled garden and
seasonal foraged wild ingredients. If you’re feeling peckish, there are fresh pastries and sharing boards of local cheese and charcuterie on offer, as well as mouthwatering nibbles, such as buttermilk fried chicken, garden vegetable crudités and Cornish mussels.
For something more substantial, book a table at adjoining restaurant, Da Costa – Artfarm’s brand-new Italian, which has a mouth-watering menu of homemade pasta, risottos and daily specials cooked over fire in the centre of this stylish, rustic new space.
If you’re tempted to sample a few of Roth Bar's delectable cocktails, or wines from Durslade Farm’s own vineyards, book Durslade Farmhouse; an extraordinary six-bedroom selfcatering property just metres away, filled with 18th-century charm and an array of modern art. Before heading off, pop into the impressive Farm Shop next door, where you can stock up on a few local treats and take a taste of this delicious county home with you
Explore a historic village
Visit Clovelly Court Gardens
Eat and Stay at the Red Lion Hotel & Pub
Meet the famous Clovelly donkeys
Visit the Charles Kingsley Museum and Fisherman’s Cottage
Watch a film on the history of the village
Experience the working harbour and lifeboat station
Take part in the Fun Trail (for your children)
Aboard boat trips and explore glorious coastal walks
Teals
Sat between Sparkford and Wincanton, Teals is a fantastic farm shop/food lover's paradise conveniently located on the A303. Stocked with all manner of delicious (mainly local and all responsibly sourced) treats, this stylish, carefully curated space houses an excellent cafe and restaurant (with a pretty outdoor courtyard)a brimming deli, butchery, lovely lifestyle store and more. Dont miss the tempting cheese counter.
teals.co.uk
Horrell & Horrell
Run by food and hospitality pros Jules and Steve, Horrell & Horrell’s dining experiences are Somerset’s hottest ticket. After an aperitif, an exquisite dinner is served on long, beautifully laid tables in a lovely barn. Expect a seasonal, mostly homegrown feast cooked over fire. Places are limited to 30 guests and sell out fast.
horrellandhorrell.co.uk
Pip’s Railway Carriage
Inspired by its own farm and produce, this friendly, quirky cafe serves excellent coffee, pleasing cakes and creative, flavour-filled small plates in a double-decker bus and marquee, and refurbished 1850s train-carriage booths.
pipsrailwaycarriage.co.uk
Mello View
This stunning smallholding was featured on Channel 4’s Grand Designs. Friendly owners Ed and Vicky host regular supper clubs in a beautiful barn with breath taking views across the kitchen garden and the Axe Valley beyond. Make a night of it and book their cosy cabin, The Gardener’s Shed.
melloview.co.uk
The Old Pharmacy
This chic little wine bar, bistro and grocery store is housed in a 500-year-old building on Bruton High Street. A daily menu offers sharing plates made using homegrown ingredients, as well as organic wines and local cider.
oldpharmacybruton.com
Westcombe Dairy
Somerset is home to many fantastic cheese producers, and Westcombe is one of the best. Pop into the dairy shop to pick up its full range of cheeses, plus charcuterie, beer, local cider, bread, flour and more.
westcombedairy.com
Beckford Canteen
Set in a former Georgian greenhouse on bustling Bartlett Street, Beckford Canteen sits in one of the prettiest parts of Bath. Grab a sleek wooden seat in this lovely light and airy space and dig into sophisticated modern British dishes and great cocktails.
beckfordcanteen.com
–Briar
This September, Great British Menu 2022 finalist and former Head Chef at Glebe House in Devon, Sam Lomas, opens his first restaurant, Briar, in the former Osip site in Bruton. Connected to neighbouring Georgian townhouse hotel, Number One Bruton, Briar's menus and dishes feature hyperlocal produce from foraged ingredients and the growing seasons of the kitchen garden.
numberonebruton.com/briar
The Somerset Cider Brandy Company
No visit to Somerset would be complete without a trip to Burrow Hill. Climb to the top for incredible 360-degree views before heading down to the characterful shop for a pint of cider and stroll among the orchards.
somersetciderbrandy.com
This small, chic, Michelin-starred spot relocated in August to a 16th-century inn just outside Bruton. The new Osip restaurant elevates chef Merlin Labron-Johnson’s field-toplate philosophy and precise tasting menu experience – It will also have four bedrooms.
osiprestaurant.com
OPENING HOURS: 8AM TILL 6PM. 7 DAYS A WEEK.
1 ORCHARD LANE, SOUTH CADBURY, YEOVIL, BA22 7FS
Gwen John: Art and Life in London and Paris
Paula Rego and Francisco de Goya
27 September – 5 January 2025
Until 14 April 2024
Gwen John: Art and Life in London and Paris
Until 14 April 2024
Chila Kumari Singh Burman
Henry Moore in Miniature
Henry Moore in Miniature
16 September – 12 January 2025
3 May – 8 September 2024
3 May – 8 September 2024
3 May – 8 September 2024
3 May – 8 September 2024
3 May – 8 September 2024
The Holburne (aka Lady Danbury’s house in Netflix’s popular Bridgerton) is one of the UK’s best loved independent museums.
The Holburne (aka Lady Danbury’s house in Netflix’s popular Bridgerton) is one of the UK’s best loved independent museums.
The Holburne (aka Lady Danbury’s house in Netflix’s popular Bridgerton) is one of the UK’s best loved independent museums.
The Holburne (aka Lady Danbury’s house in Netflix’s popular Bridgerton) is one of the UK’s best loved independent museums.
The Holburne (aka Lady Danbury’s house in Netflix’s popular Bridgerton) is one of the UK’s best loved independent museums.
As well as housing a wonderful and eclectic collection, it presents world-class exhibitions of historical and contemporary art and a dynamic programme of creative activities and events for all ages.
As well as housing a wonderful and eclectic collection, it presents world-class exhibitions of historical and contemporary art and a dynamic programme of creative activities and events for all ages.
As well as housing a wonderful and eclectic collection, it presents world-class exhibitions of historical and contemporary art and a dynamic programme of creative activities and events for all ages.
As well as housing a wonderful and eclectic collection, it presents world-class exhibitions of historical and contemporary art and a dynamic programme of creative activities and events for all ages.
As well as housing a wonderful and eclectic collection, it presents world-class exhibitions of historical and contemporary art and a dynamic programme of creative activities and events for all ages.
Located at the end of the majestic Great Pulteney Street, and with a fantastic café, museum shop and gardens, it’s a must-see for any visit to Bath.
Located at the end of the majestic Great Pulteney Street, and with a fantastic café, museum shop and gardens, it’s a must-see for any visit to Bath.
Located at the end of the majestic Great Pulteney Street, and with a fantastic café, museum shop and gardens, it’s a must-see for any visit to Bath.
Located at the end of the majestic Great Pulteney Street, and with a fantastic café, museum shop and gardens, it’s a must-see for any visit to Bath.
Located at the end of the majestic Great Pulteney Street, and with fantastic café, museum shop and gardens, it’s a must-see for any visit to Bath.
Paula Rego and Francisco de Goya
Paula Rego and Francisco de Goya
Paula Rego and Francisco de Goya
Pop Art Portraits
Paula Rego and Francisco de Goya
Paula Rego and Francisco de Goya
27 September 2024 – 5 January 2025
27 September 2024 – 5 January 2025
27 September 2024 – 5 January 2025
24 January – 5 May 2025
27 September 2024 – 5 January 2025
27 September 2024 – 5 January 2025
holburne.org
holburne.org
holburne.org
British Travel Journal visits The Lord Crewe Arms. Located in a picturesque spot, featuring beautiful moorlands and vast dark skies, it's the ideal place to disconnect and learn more about this storied region
Text by Amy Bonifas
It’s not often you find a professional-grade telescope in your hotel room. But Northumberland is one of the leastpopulated regions of the UK – and also very low on light pollution – making it hands-down one of the best spots to stargaze the night away this autumn.
The heather-strewn moors and fells of the North Pennines stretch beneath some of the darkest skies in the country, and lush pine forests thrive in the cleanest air. And if that isn’t reason enough to visit, it’s also home to one of the most unique and oldest hotels.
Nestled in the neat estate village of Blanchland, The Lord Crewe Arms is the ideal retreat if you’re craving true peace and quiet and want to explore the history and nature of this underrated area.
Built in the 12th century, ‘The Crewe’ – as locals have affectionately named it – was once the abbot’s lodge and guesthouse for the monks of neighbouring Blanchland Abbey. The hotel’s gardens were the monks’ cloisters, and the ground-floor dining room was a great medieval feasting hall. That was until Henry VIII’s bold move to dissolve and close most of the monasteries across the country.
The Bishop of Durham, Lord Crewe acquired the building in the 1700s before leaving his estates to the ‘Lord Crewe
Trustees’, and it became a place for local lead miners to enjoy a pint or two after a shift.
Now, the flagstone floors and wrought-iron light fittings still create a monastic atmosphere, but our welcome is anything but.The bedrooms are cosy and stocked with homemade butter fudge, the jolly staff are poised with local recommendations, and there’s a roaring fire in just about every room.
One of the key things that drew us here was the number of wild and wonderful experiences the hotel can arrange for you – from historic guided tours of nearby Hadrian’s Wall to stargazing evenings in the hotel’s garden.
We opt for a local nature walk with ecologist and biology teacher Pippa Scott-Harden, who greets us glowingly in reception and whizzes us in her 4x4 across the moors – “There’s usually a roosting barn owl in one of our outbuildings. Let’s go check in.”
The beauty of Blanchlands is undeniable. We venture deeper into the woodland and walk along the rushing River Derwent, where Pippa helps translate the array of morning birdsong. Her passion is infectious, and we stop to admire the rare and delicate wildflowers and the ancient native Scots pine trees – the only place in England you’ll find these towering red-tinged beauties.
You can spot everything from roe deer to red squirrels here, but strangely, we’re most fascinated by the silvery, seaweedlike fronds clinging to some of the tree trunks. “I’m so glad you asked,” beams Pippa. “There are so many species of lichen here, and it’s only able to grow in places with low pollution.”
She offers us a spyglass to take a closer look at a patch of bright-red lichen nicknamed ‘British Soldiers’ growing in a tiny gap within the dry stone wall. It feels like a long time since I’ve stopped to look this closely at nature and appreciate its minuscule beauty.
We treat ourselves to a tea and fudge pitstop at the hotel. Our room is Penny Pie, in one of the newly revamped miners’ cottages. Decorated in rich, earthy tones with hints of tweed, the stone fireplace and a sumptuous roll-top bath will keep you toasty on chillier evenings. I love that the books are carefully curated, and we find everything from old-school ordinance maps to astrology guides.
On our way to dinner, we stop to watch wagtails and sparrows hop around the garden as the light starts to fade.
Already, I can see the stars peeking through. But first, we head to The Crypt. Unlike your average local, this pub is
tucked away in a medieval vaulted chamber. The walls are lined with coat-of-arms shields and chalkboards offering chef’s snacks. Guests chatter away by candlelight, sipping on autumnal cocktails – the hotel even has its own ‘Crewe Brewe,’ a tasty golden bitter.
You can eat in either The HiIyard Room, a flagstoned medieval hall adorned with old family oil portraits, or the refined Bishop’s Dining Room upstairs. We dress up a little for our first night and head up the stone staircase. North East native Chef Paul Johnson has worked alongside Michelinstarred chefs and once owned a pub in Northumberland, and the menu reflects this mix of high-end taste and humble, local ingredients.
We try the North Sea torched mackerel with bitter watercress and zingy pickled fennel, and the Northumberland cheese soufflé – bubbling and golden. The venison haunch blushes pink on my plate, drizzled with red wine gravy and topped with blue cheese and hazelnuts. The wine list has some bold and unusual names, and we opt for a punchy Georgian red to pair with our rich choices. Afterwards, we peek into the cosy lounge next door and spot the original privy chamber hidden in the corner.
One of the hotel staff reminds us to look up during the walk back, and we’re treated to countless stars and constellations shimmering against the blackest sky. We crane our necks to take it in – “So this is what the night sky actually looks like,” whispers my husband.
For breakfast, it has to be the full Northumberland cooked breakfast with proper black pudding and a separate
‘We try the North Sea torched mackerel with bitter watercress and zingy pickled fennel, and the Northumberland cheese soufflé – bubbling and golden.’
bowl of beans (just how I like it). You can even order hot, buttered crumpets as a side – genius. It’s the perfect fuel for our 10km walk along Hadrian’s Wall, just a short drive away. We start at the Housesteads Roman Fort – the most complete of its kind in Britain – and follow in Roman footsteps to Sycamore Gap. We take a moment to imagine the great tree that once stood here.
The satisfying ache in our legs is made all the sweeter knowing we can return to the hotel for dinner in the great
hall. Our table is snuggled right next to the hearth, and we thaw out while tucking into pan-fried skate wing with lashings of brown butter and capers and a side of truffle Parmesan fries. We get chatting to fellow guests as their dogs nap happily on the stone floor.
Before long, it’s time to check out, and it’s genuinely hard to say goodbye to this place. During our final walk, we visit Blanchland Abbey and head into the local craft shop to buy one of Pippa’s red squirrel lino prints (yes, she also happens to be a popular local artist). It’s possible to pack so much into a weekend here, and we return feeling recharged and freshly topped up with handy pub-quiz-friendly trivia. What more could you ask for?
Rooms at the Lord Crewe Arms start from £164 per night on a B&B basis. Nature walks with Pippa Scott-Harden, stargazing evenings with a local expert and historic Hadrian’s Wall walks are available to book directly through the hotel; lordcrewearmsblanchland.co.uk
puzzles and products we love
1 Lochs & Legends – a Scotsman's Guide to the Heart of Scotland, by Andy McAlindon the Highlander, famous for playing John Grant in the TV series Outlander. From the majestic beauty of the wild Scottish landscape to the hidden traces of its history waiting to be uncovered in every town and village, Andy is enthralled by the country he is lucky enough to call home; harpercollins.co.uk 2 Bringing the luxury of a spa experience home to achieve radiant skin throughout the winter; Repair Night Progress Serum by Germaine de Capuccini, £135.95; germaine-decapuccini.co.uk 3 Atomo is a striking handmade designer walnut-and-polishedbrass clock by Nomon, £119; thedesignchoice.com
1 Vehicles that keep moving (7,7)
10 Czar's decree (5)
11 North Welsh castle (9)
12 Oberon's significant other (7)
13 Fishermen's gear (7)
14 They can be common or proper (5)
16 Combined cycling, swimming, and running (9)
19 Had a summit (9)
20 Sail across the wind (5)
22 With a twang (7)
25 One who's not sure of the correct answer (7)
27 Chew haricot in Westminster hotel (9)
28 Insinuate (5)
29 Wow! Let the fools sort out the undesirables (6,2,3,3)
2 Painful sensation in the chest (9)
3 Cinema chain (5)
4 Rocky BOT? (9)
5 South Cadbury diner (5)
6 Carpet centre (9)
7 Northumbrian islands (5)
8 Begins knitting (5,2)
9 The --- Arms, near Cromer (6)
15 Boils (9)
17 Huffy (9)
18 Foreshadows (5,2,2)
19 Distrustful and gloomy (7)
21 Bay near Padstow hosting a porcine hotel (6)
23 Scatter about (5)
24 Brute in Gulliver's Travels (5)
26 Buachaille --- Mòr, a Munro (5)
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