INTERVIEW WITH LUKE MATTHEWS

Five-star Chewton Glen has stood the test of time with aplomb, here its Executive Head Chef reveals the secret to its timeless elegance and tremendous new offerings

Now more than ever travellers are looking for a safe haven where they can spend time with their nearest and dearest in reassuring comfort. Chewton Glen is just this type of sanctuary – one of the first iconic British countryside hotels, the five-star Hampshire residence is only a few minutes’ walk from the sea and features an awardwinning restaurant, world-class spa, nine-hole golf course, croquet lawn, tennis courts, walled gardens, orchard, a cookery school, and 72 individually designed bedrooms and suites including 14 tree-house suites nestled in the canopy of the woodland grounds.

REINVENTING A CLASSIC

Country chic blended with a charming quintessential Britishness, Chewton welcomes guests with the cocooning warmth of an old friend. Just the ticket then for a holiday in these somewhat testing times.

Like Chewton’s many patrons who return year upon year Executive Head Chef Luke Matthews has been similarly charmed by Chewton Glen – with 2021 marking his 28th year at the hotel.

“We really push the envelope here; the goal posts are always moving and that drives me and has kept me here for all these years. It's a beautiful hotel; fabulous grounds, lovely spa - we're a proper resort destination. We want people to feel relaxed the minute they arrive and I think every part of Chewton complements the other. The tree houses are incredible [the hotel is one of the first in the UK to offer treetop luxury suites complete with hot tubs overlooking lush woodland] and we've got the new restaurant and cookery school which again, is a fantastic addition,” says Luke.

Inspired by his mother’s home cooking from an early age, at 16 Luke started an apprenticeship in The Green Park Hotel, Bournemouth, before moving to the Dormy Hotel at Ferndown, and later completed work experience at Chewton Glen. Recalling his stint of work experience, Luke says: “I just remember thinking, ‘this place is on another level’. It was ground-breaking, Chewton really was one of the first luxury spa hotels in the UK,” Luke adds.

In 1993, Luke joined Chewton as sous chef and rose through the ranks until in November 2003, he was appointed Executive Head Chef. Winning England’s AA Hotel of the Year in 2019, Chewton’s dining is a key part of its allure. Guests can dine at the elegant Dining Room overlooking the hotel’s immaculate grounds and croquet lawn, and The Kitchen; a more informal, relaxed restaurant that also boasts a fabulous new cookery school and open kitchen. There are also a host of private dining options for more intimate feasts.

NEW-AGE NEW FOREST

In today’s changing world, Luke and his brigade have been able to adapt easily to guests’ needs. “We’ve got a lot of space at Chewton in the two main hotel restaurants and we run long opening hours for the restaurant, so there hasn’t been a problem looking after everyone. What we are finding is that guests are tending to stay for a week rather than just a few days and dine with us almost the entire time. I think when they arrive here they feel secure and can really relax. It’s brilliant as every day the restaurant is buzzing.”

While times have changed, it’s comforting to see that many things at Chewton remain reassuringly untouched.

“I think for us the key is to cook great food with good ingredients and to cook what our guests want to eat. We tweak the menu seasonally to make the most of the new season produce but we don’t do a complete menu change because there are a lot of dishes that have become absolute Chewton Glen classics. We do a twice-baked Emmental soufflé starter, which has been on the menu for decades. Over the last 20 years we’ve probably taken it off two or three times and when we do the letters start to roll in from diners asking where it’s gone. So, we’ve made a pact; the soufflé will never move again!”

Another of Chewton’s iconic dishes, the lobster curry, makes it on to Luke’s desert island dish menu, alongside his dressed crab starter and “something chocolatey for dessert”.

Luke’s recent projects include working with Estate Manager Darren Venables to develop a thriving walled kitchen garden, nursery and heritage orchard, which produces a vast array of ingredients for the hotels’ own kitchens.

In addition to harvesting produce on-site, the New Forest hotel uses local and British suppliers wherever possible. “Especially after the Covid crisis, we need to support local suppliers as much as we can.” This includes sourcing their eggs from a farmer in neighbouring Hordle who “hand picks every one for us”, grabbing the best daily catch from a fishmonger in Bournemouth and using mozzarella from Hampshire’s Laverstoke Park.

The most recent addition to Chewton’s culinary offering is The Kitchen, a relaxed restaurant concept which has opened in association with TV chef James Martin. “I've known James for 27 years, we worked together here in the very early days, he on pastry, me as sous chef. He’s returned for charity dinners and other events at Chewton over the years so it was an easy partnership and a great synergy. The cookery school has been a great success and is such a wonderful space.”

SPA SECRETS

During summer 2020, the new-look spa was also unveiled featuring a refreshed interior, and a cool, calming palette to complement the 17-metre indoor pool. In addition to the revamped space, Chewton’s new spa treatment menu includes two alfresco treehouse treatments.

Next to the indoor pool, guests can enjoy the hydrotherapy spa, which centres around the ancient tradition of water therapy and offers six hi-tech therapy options including an ‘air-tub’, which provides an all-over bubbly Jacuzzi-like effect.

Double height floor to ceiling windows drench the pool area with light and the domed hydrotherapy spa also overlooks the stunning grounds. An outdoor hot tub is cocooned away on a private deck for ultimate relaxation, while the spa’s flower-clad balcony deck provides a perfect spot for an afternoon siesta. Loungers dot the undulating lawns in the summer, with views to a horizon of trees, and every wall, trellis and border is blessed with a festoon of seasonal blooms year round.

COUNTRY ICON

He’s actually closing in on his fourth decade there as he’s on his 28th year. The charm of this hotel shows no sign of abating for Luke: “I am thrilled and extremely fortunate to have had the opportunity to be at the helm of the kitchen brigade at Chewton Glen. To have cooked for royalty, movie stars, sporting heroes and remarkable public figures has been an incredible experience and I genuinely feel very proud to be part of the history of this great hotel, which has for well over 50 years been delighting guests with its tradition of excellent service and world-class hospitality.”

Words | Chantal Borciani