Interview with Rick Stein

Rick Stein's love affair with Cornwall began in his childhood and has helped define his prestigious culinary career. “My parents had a house at Trevose Head from the late 1930’s so my memories go back to when I was extremely tiny in the early 50s; swimming at the beach below our house which is now where the lifeboat house is, buckets and spades, blue and very uncomfortable woollen swimming costumes,” explains Rick.

In 1975, the chef set up a small fish restaurant on the harbourside in Padstow with his wife Jill and over the ensuing decades

The Seafood Restaurant won international acclaim for its boat-fresh fish menu and put the picturesque Cornish haven on the map like never before.

The Stein empire in Padstow has certainly blossomed – a café, deli and gift shop followed the restaurant, along with a cookery school, and a hotel and bistro up the lanes at St

Petroc’s. Rick’s love and skill for cooking fresh seafood simply yet exquisitely secured book deals and ever popular TV series. Rick’s travel diaries from around the world have brought the flavours of the world into UK living rooms for decades and accompanying cookery books were – and continue to be – best sellers.

THE CALL OF CORNWALL

Rick and Jill are now divorced but continue to run the businesses together. They expanded the Rick Stein dining concept with a small chain of eponymous restaurants bringing the fish-focused menus to other parts of the UK, but Cornwall remains closest to Rick’s heart.

“I didn’t choose Padstow, Padstow chose me, it’s like when people say, ‘things happen for a reason’. In a weird way I think I couldn’t have ended up anywhere else,” Rick says. “I think the net result of lots of travel is actually to accentuate the unique qualities of somewhere like Cornwall rather than to diminish them, simply because when you’ve seen it all you start looking at our own sandy beaches, seafood and even the smell of seaweed on the rocks at Harlyn, with greater love.”

“I love Padstow for its strong sense of identity. There are Cornish coastal towns that seem to exist almost solely for the summer season, and all but die at the end of October, but Padstow is very different. There’s a yearround community here, which makes the town feel very much alive, even in the depths of winter.”

Forty five years after first opening its doors, The Seafood Restaurant is still one of Cornwall’s top dining spots, overlooking Padstow harbour where Cornish fishing boats haul in their catch daily. “There are families that have been fishing out of Padstow for more generations than they can remember, and it’s a joy to watch the boats come in – it’s such an important part of our heritage,” the chef explains.

Rick Stein

“I originally got the idea for a fish restaurant in Padstow from a long departed hole in the wall restaurant near the quay in Falmouth called Mark’s Seafood Bar, it was somewhere where you could go in for mussels and fish pie but also grilled lobster and Dover sole and they didn’t worry if you wore your yachting wellies and Cornish smock.”

Padstow Cornwall

Rick’s cookery school, which also overlooks the Camel Estuary and is mere footsteps from The Seafood Restaurant, celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. “The architect who designed the whole building on South Quay, which contains the cookery school, pointed out that there was a rather spectacular space on the first floor with lovely views over the estuary to Rock. Jill suggested a cookery school and my original thought was turn it into a space to teach our chefs fish cookery away from the heat and hurry of the restaurant kitchen. It soon became apparent though that many of our customers wanted to cook the same dishes as we did in the restaurant and so it grew.”

Salt and pepper prawns

All the dishes showcased at the school hail from Rick’s travels around the world including an Indian seafood course, courses from his TV series Secret France, and of course fish and shellfish sessions. Other day courses include one-dish workshops, children’s cookery classes and tasting evenings. “I love the cookery school because everyone seems to leave very happy indeed. I think they have a far greater understanding of what truly fresh seafood is like plus because we run it in a very relaxed and informal way they are not intimidated and soon realise they can cook the dishes as well as us. We also make sure that there’s plenty of nice cold white wine when they are sitting down to eat what they’ve cooked, which seems to be rather popular.”

THE STEIN EFFECT

Over the past few decades, Cornwall has produced some of Britain’s most revered chefs and many – including Nathan Outlaw, whose Port Isaac restaurants boast three Michelin stars between them – started out at The Seafood Restaurant, honing their craft with Rick.

From the use of British produce and seasonal cooking to the celebration of regionality and Cornwall’s place on the gastronomic map, Rick has paved the way for peers and the popularity of Cornwall for many. As with many top chefs, dining out is a savoured but rare treat.

“I’m slightly ashamed to say I don’t get out much mainly because when I’m in Cornwall I have critical meals in any one of our nine places we have in Cornwall. But I love going to Nathan Outlaw’s and Paul Ainsworth’s and I know our staff enjoy eating at places including the Gurnards Head and St Kew Inn.”

A keen walker, Rick will also be found enjoying the staggering scenery near his Cornish home. His favourite beaches along the north Cornish Coast include Harlyn, Trevone, and St George’s Well in the estuary, while his favourite walking trails begin just footsteps from his beloved Padstow. “The Camel Trail is very scenic, easy walking, both from Padstow to Wadebridge and then onto Bodmin with a sneaky stop off at Camel Valley Winery. Or catch the ferry over to Rock and walk along Daymer Bay to Bray Hill and around the back to get to St Enedoc Church, where Sir John Betjeman is buried.”

From childhood memories on sandy beaches to his seafood restaurant that all but revolutionised the dining scene in the 90s and continues to be a Cornish calling card, this sunniest corner of England remains Rick’s heart and soul for good reason.

WHERE TO STAY

Carbis Bay Beach Lodges A self-catering staycation to rival long-haul luxury

Carbis Bay Beach Lodges

Stay at Steins The full foodie experience

A personal chef, housekeeper and golf buggy will also be available seven days a week to ensure a flawless hospitality experience.

With mesmeric views of St Ives Bay and direct access onto the awardwinning Carbis Bay beach, Carbis Bay Beach Lodges offer the ultimate in laid-back luxury. Each Beach Lodge offers three or four en-suite bedrooms, a large open-plan living space and dining room, kitchenette and a private garden, plus a hot tub overlooking the soft sands of Carbis Bay. Lodge guests are afforded a personal guest host available around the clock to take care of all requirements before and during their visit. Guests can also enjoy the award-winning C Bay Spa, which boasts a couples treatment room on stilts above the sands as well as an outdoor sauna pod, heated outdoor swimming pool and hydrotherapy pool.

Guests can stay at one of Rick Stein’s rooms around Padstow, which blend coastal design with luxury living. From the elegance of St Edmunds House, where six rooms enjoy a private garden with views across the Camel Estuary, to the contemporary boutique hotel rooms above The Seafood Restaurant itself or the self-catering sanctuary of romantic Bryn Cottage, the accommodation is some of the finest found in and around Padstow. Rick’s charming bistro in Padstow, St Petroc’s, features low wooden beams and cosy fireplaces and its ten rooms offer more stunning coastal accommodation with some rooms enjoying picturesque sea views.

COMPETITION WIN A LUXURY STAY

St Petroc’s, Padstow

THE PRIZE

British Travel Journal is offering one lucky winner a one-day course for two at Rick Stein’s award-winning Cookery School in Padstow, plus two nights’ accommodation at St Petroc’s and a three-course dinner at The Seafood Restaurant.

HOW TO ENTER

Enter online at britishtraveljournal.com/ competitions. Last entries 30 September 2020. Terms and Conditions apply - please see website for further details.

The Cookery School

Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, Rick Stein’s award winning Cookery School is perfect for anyone looking to improve their culinary skills, learn something new or simply have fun with friends while cooking and eating amazing food. On each course guests will enjoy demonstrations from Rick’s friendly team of expert chefs, hands on cooking demonstrations and of course, lots of delicious tasters! Throughout the day, students sit down and enjoy the fruits of their labour, enjoying all of the dishes they make accompanied by a glass or two of good wine. In the afternoon there will be a further demonstration to learn more recipes and kitchen techniques.

There are plenty of exciting course options to choose from including classic fish and shellfish courses; Indian seafood; Vegetarian; Italian cooking, ‘Secret France’ and a special 20th Anniversary course.

Words|Chantal Borciani