11 minute read
Great West Way - New UK Touring Route from London to Bristol
Words | Jules Mittra
Forming a broad corridor on either side of the historic King’s Road’ (known as the ‘A4’ today), the Great West Way links two of England’s foremost historic port-cities; London in the east, and Bristol in the west. This road has been one of the most important routes in England for almost two millennia. At around 125 miles in total length, the Great West Way passes through, or close to, some of the most spectacular and fascinating landscapes, locations, attractions, history, experiences and cultural highlights that England has to offer. From the prehistoric to the ultra-modern, from rural idylls to urban jungles, the Great West Way offers curious, inquisitive travellers the opportunity to go way beyond the routine tourist experience and connect with England more powerfully and authentically than ever before. For those with the requisite resources, time and interest, it’s the perfect way to discover England, in luxury, unhampered and at a pace that is relaxed and immersive. With so much on offer, creating the perfect itinerary for you won’t be difficult, but here’s mine...
Starting in London, the Great West Way begins in the heart of the historic City. As it heads west out of the city through Richmond and Twickenham, it passes Buckingham Palace, well outside the city when first built, past the Ritz, before escaping the capital through Windsor and the suburbs and satellite towns that orbit London’s west flank. An ideal starting point for exploring the Great West Way, especially for those having just arrived from overseas, is The Langley, a recently opened 5-star hotel just on the outskirts of London, only 10 miles from Heathrow. Destined to become one of England’s most prestigious country hotels and originally the Duke of Marlborough’s hunting lodge (ie the Churchills), The Langley recalls the character, charm and elegance of an imperial age whilst offering the comfort, service and facilities of a contemporary 5-star hotel. The rooms are sumptuously yet tastefully decorated, the spa complex is stunning, and the hotel boasts a signature restaurant, bar and exquisite afternoon tea. However, for food lovers, Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck is just a mere 20 minutes away and offers one of the most extraordinary culinary experiences in the world, and one that people travel across the world to experience. As such, booking far in advance is a necessity.
Mounted police officers at Windsor Castle
Assuming an overnight stay at The Langley, a visit to Windsor and its famous castle may be an essential stop for some. Personally, Eton, on the opposite bank of the river Thames and connected to Windsor by a pretty foot-bridge, is a more enticing, enchanting and less crowded prospect. Home to Eton College one of the world’s most prestigious and oldest schools, both the town and the school are fascinating places to visit. Call the College up ahead and it is often possible to find times to visit the school or at least parts of it, including the 1400s King’s Chapel, often guided by one of the scholars, replete in his top hat and tails.
However, the town is also worth perusing, if only for a stroll along its Victorian streets with stores that seem to have stood still in time: gentlemen’s outfitters with displays of fine hats, riding-coats and assorted gentlemanly attire, sweet shops with jars of hardboiled marvels.
It may be obvious but travelling by car along the Great West Way provides the most flexible and simplest way of exploring the route; however, there’s no need for the transport to be any less interesting than the route itself. Whether you’d prefer to self-drive or enjoy the views from the back seat, there are plenty of options for hiring a classic British car for the trip from companies such as ‘Bespokes’, or ‘Vintage Classics'.
Assuming Windsor and Eton are morning stops, the afternoon should offer something different. One such option would be a visit to Silchester. Silchester has to be one of the most incredible hidden gems along the Great West Way. Once a significant Roman town, it was abandoned in the early 400s following the Roman army’s sudden departure, recalled in a vain attempt to save Rome from the barbarian hordes.Silchester’s walls were too long, and the site lacked a natural defensive location or adequate water supply, so its inhabitants seemingly abandoned it in favour of more secure Roman towns such as Bathand London. Today its walls, gatehouses, road plan and even amphitheatre are still visible, with the rest of the site left to grazing cattle and sheep.
It’s an extraordinary place to visit; quiet, peaceful and evocative, and a great stop before making the short hop over to near-by Heckfield Place for another night of divine luxury.
Continuing the journey west the following day, the route along the King’s Road/A4 provides passes you by historic town after historic town and achingly beautiful countryside. Fans of Downton Abbey may want to stop by Highclere Castle; it’s a busy stop today but a drive from that point to Marlborough takes in some of the most spectacular countryside in the south of England.
Before arriving at Marlborough, the village of Great Bedwyn offers a myriad of incredible experiences. First is Wilton Windmill, a rare example of a maintained windmill, with private guided tours available and bags of flour to take home. For fans of the industrial era, one of the UKs most significant industrial treasures - the world’s oldest working steam engine at Crofton Beam Engines, is close by. Designed by Watt, the man who spurred the industrial revolution with the first efficient steam engine, this engine has been pumping water up for the nearby canal for over 200 years. Enjoy a private, guided tour before stopping for lunch at the award winning Three Tuns Freehouse.
Whilst Stonehenge is recognised the world over, just twenty miles north of it lies another prehistoric UNESCO world heritage site that to me at least, is more awesome, mysterious and magical. Avebury Stone Circle is the largest stone circle or ‘henge’ anywhere in Europe. Located within a gentle bowl of hill lines, its scale andlocation is truly awe inspiring. By way of comparison, Stonehenge’s diameter is approximately 98 metres, whilst Avebury’s is 347 metresacross. And although we are fairly confident about Stonehenge’s purpose, Avebury’s remains a mystery. Touch its imperious stones and walk alongits enormous earth-banks, built up out of the chalk spoil taken from thedeep, wide ditches beneath and gaze upon the prehistoric monuments thatdot the landscape all around it. Aside from the stone circle itself, Avebury also boasts several other fascinating prehistoric featuresnearby; the 2.5km stone avenue that links Avebury to the ancient Ridgeway path, Silbury hill, the largest man-made mound in Europe builtover generations, similar in size to a contemporary Egyptian pyramid,and finally, West Kennet Long-barrow. This ancient burial chamber wasfirst constructed over 5500 years ago and remained in constant use forover a thousand years. Step inside to discover remarkable Neolithicburial chambers and the detritus of modern-day druids and pagans whostill enter the tomb to leave votive offerings of candles, corn dolliesand ribbons in honour of the spirits. It’s a completely ethereal experience.
mate is rapidly making southern England a Goldilocks zone for such wines. It’s still very much acottage industry, but outstanding vineyards are emerging across the Great West Way region. One such vineyard is a’Beckett’s Vineyard. Stop by for a private tour of the facilities, vines, process and of course, awine tasting. As a contrast to the luxury hotel, a great alternative isa stay at a private rental. The Three Daggers Spa Barn. The Three Daggers was originally a simple coaching inn on the road at Edington, Wiltshire, but today, under the stewardship of a wealthy and passionate owner, it boasts one of the finest restaurants in the area, as well asits own craft beer brewery (which can be visited privately), a first-class farm shop filled with local produce and delicious delicaciesand pickles no longer in common use. Most importantly however, is the accommodation itself. The Three Daggers has its own rooms, but also offers one of the most sumptuous, private and well-equipped private holiday rentals anywhere in the region. The Three Daggers Spa Barn is a complex of buildings for private hire that sits high above the road and inn below, looking across to the vale beyond. The vista is breathtaking; stunning hill-lines, fields, villages and distant towers and churchspires fill the view. Enjoy a little tranquillity, quietly reading undersoft light, on a comfy sofa whilst gazing across the view from thecomfort of the glass-fronted barn that serves as the communal living area. Or clamber into the spa-pool at the very top of the property, enjoying a glass or two of champagne, as dusk falls on the scene below and the bubbling heated waters of the pool turn to steam as they meet the cool air above.
Stonehenge is an ideal stop the following day; it’s a must-see but whilst ‘inner-circle access’ tours are possible, unless you plan on block-booking the entire 30 inner-access places, a guided tour with knowledgeable expert offers a better experience. The newly installed path allows visitors to come within a few metres of the stones durin gregular hours whilst an inner-access tour means that you’ll always best sruggling to keep the 20 plus other people out of your photos as they wander inside the circle.
The Henge Shop, Marlborough
There’s also an incredible variety of options for venturing away from the wellknown as well. For those interested in grand historical houses, and breath-taking gardens, a visit to Great Chalfield Manor is a must. Owned by the same family who’ve held it since the early 1800s, it is now partially maintained by the National Trust so open to the public, but available for private viewings. Lunch or drinks on the lawn with Patsy and Robert is a spectacular experience worth investing in.
Great Chalfield Manor, Wiltshire
However you choose to fill your day, the next stop is Bath, and there is no better way of heading into this fabulous historic town than by climbing aboard a narrow boat at Bradford on Avon and making the gentle cruise into Bath over a matter of four or so hours. The canal was built to facilitate the movement of goods in the industrial revolution but today, travelling the stretch of canal from Bradford on Avon to Bath offers one of the most relaxing and interesting experiences you could hope for. Say hello to other canal residents, stop at one of the pubs or cafés enroute, journey over great stone viaducts, through picturesque tunnels and deep locks, and pass creamy coloured stone rows of Georgian houses, emerging in the heart of Bath. There’s no better way to enter the city.
Caen Hill Locks at Devizes
When it comes to accommodation in Bath, there simply is no better choice than the Royal Crescent Hotel. Located at the centre of one of Europe’s most recognised and celebrated residential buildings, the hotel provides luxury, comfort and an oasis of peace for visitors to this extraordinary city. Boasting period rooms and décor as befits a building that symbolised the zenith of Georgian architecture and British imperial confidence, the Hotel’s restaurant is firstclass as are its spa and facilities. Its greatest asset to me though, is its gardens. Located at the rear of the building and enclosed by the converted coach-houses behind, the hotel’s gardens are a hidden gem in themselves and the perfect place to enjoy an afternoon tea. Just minutes from all of the attractions of Bath, yet purposefully designed as a suburb to the city in the 1770’s, so that the residents could enjoy the pleasures of getting a sedan chair into, and out of town, the Royal Crescent Hotel offers the opportunity to stay in a world-famous heritage building, alongside the service, facilities and tranquillity expected of a 5-star hotel.
Bath itself is a city that deserves a stay of several nights. Though it can be seen in a day, a more leisurely stay to explore its UNESCO world heritage protected architecture, incredibly well-preserved Roman Baths complex, majestic Abbey, and plethora of art galleries, small museums, restaurants, bars, streets, independent shops and one of the best theatres in the country, a single day in Bath is a little miserly.
Bath also offers the perfect base from which to explore the local region – in essence, to discover England. Located at the southern tip of the Cotswolds, Bath is less than an hour from Stonehenge, Glastonbury, Cheddar Gorge, Bristol and Wales. The region is teeming with history, landscapes, artisans, food and beverage producers, gardens, grand houses, steam railways and more. In fact, Bath and the region offer so many interesting choices for those looking to do something unique and different, from private dining whilst enjoying the historic ‘Cross Bath’, to enjoying private tours of its galleries or museums, to caving, boating, ballooning or a private steam train ride with dinner served in a historic dining car, Bath and the region offer almost anything you can imagine.
Bath’s larger neighbour, Bristol, is the end point for the Great West Way, and is just as worthy of a stay as Bath.
The two cities are connected by a 15 minute train ride, and are often seen as twin cities. If that is so, they are more Danny Devito and Arnold Scwartzenegger than identical siblings. Bristol, just inland from the mouth of the River Avon, was historically England’s second port (after London) until the industrial revolution made larger ships and deeper ports Liverpool, Glasgow and Belfast more relevant. Whereas Bath is small, genteal and homogenous (both in its architecture and residents), Bristol is diffuse, edgy, industrial and creative. Bristol is a city of neighbourhoods and diverse experiences. It’s an incubator for art and creativity (Banksy, Wallace and Gromit, Portishead and the Chemical Brothers all originate in Bristol) but the city is also known for its industrial innovation; The world’s first suspension bridge, the world’s first fully steam powered screw-propelled steam ship as well as one of the few remaining Concordes all reside there.
Whatever it is about ‘England’ that engages and excites you most, the Great West Way most likely has it and probably offers the best experience of it you’re likely to find. It is a true treasure trove of discoveries, possibilities and experiences. For those wishing to go beyond the generic and formulaic - and to do it in style… Welcome to the Great West Way.
Jules Mittra is the founder of Around and About Bath (aroundandaboutbath.com), an innovative tour company transforming the local travel experience: From sightseeing to discovery, meaning and connection.
RESOURCES
Download a Great West Way map free from their website ►GreatWestWay.co.uk/explore/maps
Order a copy of the Great West Way Travel Magazine ► isubscribe.co.uk
S U M M E R E V E N T S
ROYAL ASCOT
18-22 JUNE Arguably England’s most famous – and grandest – horse racing event, with five days of races each kicked off by a royal carriage parade. This is your chance to wave at The Queen and to wear a fabulous hat!
► ascot.co.uk
HENLEY ROYAL REGATTA
3-7 JULY Established in 1839, this annual regatta attracts rowing crews from around the world to its five days of head to head knockout competitions and is regarded as an integral part of the English social season.
►hrr.co.uk
BATH CARNIVAL
13 JULY Bath’s biggest party features a procession of more than 1,000 dancers and musicians through the city plus plenty of world music on the sound systems and at Party in the Park in Sydney Gardens.
►bathcarnival.co.uk
BRISTOL INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA
8-11 AUGUST Europe’s largest annual meeting of hot air balloons brings colour to the sky above Bristol with twice-daily mass balloon launches and the chance to take a ride yourself.
►bristolballoonfiesta.co.uk
