Wales: Vale of Llangollen

The Vale of Llangollen is a land of legends, Welsh princes and medieval churches. At the ‘Gateway of Wales’, Welsh history seamlessly blends with a cosmopolitan outlook and strong community bonds in a riverside setting.

Here, you’ll find the narrowest stretch of the Dee Valley that carves through a UNESCO World Heritage landscape. This geographical setting is considered of ‘Outstanding Universal Value’ by UNESCO and includes eleven miles of canal, from Gledrid to the Horseshoe Falls via the remarkable Pontcysyllte Aqueduct.

It’s certainly an intriguing valley to explore and is dotted with many historical and religious remnants, including a weighty Gothic bridge, Cistercian abbeys and the medieval ruins of Castell Dinas Brân. The charming town of Llangollen is at the heart of the valley and is best known as the festival capital of Wales and plays host to the annual international Music Eisteddfod. Llangollen readily embraces the many oddities of festival culture and its enthusiasts. It’s not unusual to come across quilted bridges, bellowing town criers and feather-boa-clad ladies on stilts. Dream Escape recommend this as a destination best suited for hikers and heritage enthusiasts, given its proximity to historical canals and rail, and the long-distance Offa's Dyke Path. There’s also plenty of culture, boutique shopping and classy accommodation to discover as well. Despite drawing visitors for centuries, the Vale of Llangollen is a tourist favourite that still manages to feel undiscovered.

HERITAGE RAILWAY

Berwyn Station, River Dee

Llangollen Railway is the only standard-gauge heritage railway in North Wales, taking visitors on a vintage voyage through captivating scenery. Board a 1950's carriage being hauled by a classic steam engine and enjoy a spot of nostalgia as the train follows the river and climbs the curves of a lush, green landscape. The line is a labour of love, as rail enthusiasts have been meticulously rebuilding and restoring 10 miles of neglected lines and stations between Llangollen and Corwen for over 45 years. The result is a splendid community asset that makes for a unique family day out on the rails in Wales.

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct at sunrise

WHITE-WATER RAFTING ON THE RIVER DEE

With rugged mountain peaks, rocky coastlines and some of the best rivers in the UK to raft on, it’s easy to see why North Wales is branding itself as 'the adventure capital of Europe', and is also a Dream Escape favourite.

White-water rafting, Horseshoe Falls river

Take a guided rafting trip down the lengthy River Dee in Llangollen and experience the adrenaline of paddling against the surging rapids, ranging from grades 2 to 4. Locally, these rapid sections are known as Serpents Tail, Tombstones and the classic Town Falls, and are best navigated with qualified guides on an organised adventure activity.

Enjoy scenic valley views as you crash through fast-flowing waves, sail through the shallows and plunge into deep pools on a river that shifts between turbulent and tranquil.

Llangollen railway station and the river Dee

PONTCYSYLLTE AQUEDUCT AND HORSESHOE FALLS

UNESCO made the eleven miles of canal from Chirk Bank to splendid Horseshoe Falls a World Heritage Site in 2009 for its engineering features and historical operation. Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is a must-visit civil engineering destination and is one of the more astonishing achievements of the Industrial Revolution.

At 38 metres over the Dee Valley, it’s also the highest navigable aqueduct in the world and the oldest in Britain. Designed and built by Thomas Telford and Williams Jessop, it’s still in use over 200 years after construction began.

National Trust's Chirk Castle

Visitors will surely be struck by a seemingly impossible canal spectacle. Eighteen arched stone pillars support deep cast-iron troughs filled with water, forming a river in the sky that can be accessed by foot or by boat. Dream Escape will arrange boat trips or canal boats for you to travel along the canal and across Pontcysyllte Aqueduct in style with your own personal guide.

OFFA'S DYKE PATH

The most dramatic section of the 177-mile Offa's Dyke Path passes through the Vale of Llangollen with shorter sections also available for keen hikers visiting the area. Local legends suggest that it was built by a medieval king as a show of strength to intimidate his adversaries.

Alongside its mythical qualities, the path takes in some of Wales’ most impressive landscapes and historic castles as it loosely follows the Welsh and English boundary.

Day hikers can attempt the 13-mile-long Llangollen to Llandegla section to see highlights of the Llangollen Canal, Castell Dinas Brân and UNESCO landscapes.

Sunset panorama of Castell Dinas Brân near Llangollen from Panorama Walk

PLAS NEWYDD

At the southern edge of Llangollen is the medieval chocolatebox house of Plas Newydd, where the iconic ‘Ladies of Llangollen’ lived. Sarah Ponsonby and Lady Eleanor Butler escaped from their aristocratic families in Ireland in 1780 and began a bohemian lifestyle together away from the rather dull constraints of societal norms, instead choosing to embrace intellectual curiosities.

Plas Newydd

With rugged mountain peaks, rocky coastlines and some of the best rivers in the UK to raft on, it’s easy to see why North Wales is branding itself as 'the adventure capital of Europe', and is also a Dream Escape favourite

The pair were the embodiment of endearing and mildly eccentric co-dependency, scandalising rural society by sharing a bed, dressing in top hats and men’s clothing and decorating their abode in Gothic chic. Notable visitors to the cosmopolitan residence include Robert Southey, William Wordsworth, and such statesmen as the Duke of Wellington.

Today the house and manicured gardens serve as an unlikely tourist attraction and a quaint museum for visitors. Its grandiose and nonconformist quality beautifully sets the tone for the town’s free-spirited and rather accepting nature.

WHERE TO STAY

Pretty Llangollen has a selection of modern and historic hotels, B&Bs and even a 16th-century drovers inn where you can enjoy a restful night. Further afield lie a range of luxury properties that are within easy access of the valley, with two of our favourites being The Chester Grosvenor Hotel and Palé Hall.

The Chester Grosvenor Hotel is a 5-star property offering a stylish stay, with individually decorated rooms, spa facilities and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Dating back to 1865, the Chester Grosvenor is an historic and luxuriously appointed hotel with muted yet tasteful tones of ivory, champagne, and gold and a grand column façade. It’s a traditional but not dated property, with hatted doormen, grandiose chandeliers and artworks alongside chic spa treatment rooms.

Rooms are styled with a pleasing blend of contemporary and traditional features and are equipped with the amenities you would expect of a hotel of this calibre. During your stay, why not indulge in a Champagne tea in the decadent surroundings of The Arkle Bar and Lounge or spoil yourself with holistic treatments at their relaxing spa.

Another opulent stay within reach of Llangollen is distinctive Palé Hall, a historic country home that has been expertly transformed into a luxury destination hotel with fine dining. There are 18 guest bedrooms and suites that have been carefully renovated and individually designed with their own unique style and personal identity.

Palé Hall

Palé Hall also has an excellent reputation for culinary excellence, with innovative dishes full of seasonal ingredients. Gareth Stevenson is the Head Chef at the helm and has earned Palé Hall a coveted Michelin Green Star award.

Find out more

Michael Davies, Travel Design Manager

“I find it is always an interesting journey along the River Dee from Llangollen to Chester. Chirk Castle is such an impressive National Trust property, standing in contrast to idyllic Plas Newydd in Llangollen. A real highlight is Pontcysyllte, the world’s highest navigable canal aqueduct; the long-distance Offa’s Dyke Path crosses the aqueduct and then continues north, paralleling the road that goes past Valle Crucis Abbey ruins and over the Horseshoe Pass. There are some wonderful options that can be included in a visit to this hidden pocket of Wales and I am excited to share them with you all.”

⬥ michael@dreamescape.co.uk

www.dreamescape.co.uk

WORDS | PORTIA JONES