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Wales: Pembrokeshire Coast National Park

from Dream Escape Magazine | Summer 2021

from Dream Escape Magazine | Summer 2021, page 82

Scotland: Vibrant Edinburgh

Miles of golden sands, majestic cliffs, pretty harbours and rugged islands, the Pembrokeshire Coast might be one of the smallest of the UK’s National Parks but it offers endless opportunities to enjoy the outdoors.

On the west coast of Wales, The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is a spectacular 186 mile (299 km) long National Trail covering some of the most varied coastal scenery in Britain, stretching from St Dogmaels in the north to Amroth in the south. As Britain’s only fully coastal National Park, there are many beautiful award-winning beaches that stretch for miles, cliffs, islands and wildlife. It is no wonder that National Geographic Traveler magazine in the US recently rated the Pembrokeshire Coast one of the top two coastal destinations in the world.

If you would like to discover the beauty of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park as part of your tailor made Dream Escape holiday then we hope you enjoy our picks of the best experiences, places to visit and stay in this spectacular National Park.

It’s split into four parts of the south Pembrokeshire coast, including Caldey Island; the Daugleddau estuary; the St Bride's Bay coast, including the coastal islands; and the Preseli Hills - each section with its own quirks and qualities. Both the Wales Coast Path and the International Appalachian Trail follow the route of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path through Pembrokeshire.

The Pembrokeshire coastline is an intricate ribbon of weather-worn cliffs, dazzling beaches and secret coves, jewelled with rock pools – a place where land, sea and sky combine, walkers, surfers, kayakers and sailors are in their element.

In 1952 it became a national park – and the first park in the UK to consist entirely of wild, maritime landscapes - and in 1970 the Pembrokeshire Coast Path National Trail opened. It has been a tremendous success, proving that conservationists, walkers and landowners can get along peacefully and paving the way for even bigger and better things. Next came the completion of the Wales Coast Path (in 2012) which prompted a wave of praise and appreciation. Rightly so, of course. No other country has created a public footpath tracing its entire coastline. From that point of view, it was quite an innovation. But in Wales, celebrating all things coastal is nothing new – especially in Pembrokeshire.

So, the coast path has always been special, but now that it’s part of the 870-mile Wales Coast Path, it’s better than ever. Walks can be long or short, linear or circular, steep or flat, and may lead you across gleaming sands or over clifftops with views to make the heart skip. Walking the entire route is no mean feat – in fact the total rise and fall of the Coast Path is over 35,000 feet – greater than the height of Mount Everest. But there’s no rule to say you have got to walk it all.

Dream Escape have created some breathtaking itineraries to showcase this stunning part of the country, with or without a private walking guide.

Tranquillity can be found at Marloes Sands, with its rock pools, crystal-clear waters and an inviting sandy coast, surrounded by charming craggy cliffs.

It is beautiful throughout the year; in the spring, you can explore woodlands carpeted with bluebells or meadows bursting with native species including cowslips, harebells and campions; in summer, butterflies dance through arches of honeysuckle and over clouds of thrift and gorse, and if, come autumn or winter, you feel like an outdoorsy break, the coast is the perfect place to blow the cobwebs away.

**Marloes Sands, a remote sandy beach, Pembrokeshire**

St Davids Cathedral is a captivating sight, both its majestic exterior and painted ceilings within

The national park is fantastic for wildlife-watching, too. From the first little bursts of warm weather in spring, the clifftops are alive with crickets and ladybirds. Overhead, seabirds wheel, screech and soar. Every year, puffins and Manx shearwaters return to the islands of Caldey, Grassholm, Skokholm, Skomer and Ramsey to nest, while rabbits graze companionably and seals snooze in the sun. And occasionally, halfhidden by the waves, a pod of dolphins will come frolicking by.

You might like Dream Escape to arrange for you to explore the National Coastal Park to its fullest with some watersports activities? Try your hand at coasteering perhaps – jumping from rocks, then swimming and scrambling back up them – or a spot of sea kayaking, paddleboarding, sailing, powerboating or fishing.

Tranquillity can be found at Marloes Sands, with its rock pools, crystal-clear waters and an inviting sandy coast, surrounded by charming craggy cliffs. The curved coastline is almost a mile long, ideal for those dreaming of feeling the sand between their toes on a quiet coastal stroll. This secluded Welsh secret is only accessible on foot but is a worthwhile trip, if not for the serenity, then for the small neighbouring bay of Albion Sands where a historic shipwreck comes to light at low tide!

The relics of past peoples can be found everywhere and Dream Escape favourites include the Iron Age hill forts and burial mounds from the earliest of times, majestic castles and churches. Great examples of these historical gems are Castell Henllys Iron Age Village, Carew Castle and Tidal Mill, St Davids Cathedral, Victorian mining remains at Stepaside, the brickworks at Porthgain, and the many airfields that remind us of the more recent conflicts of two world wars.

ST DAVIDS

Small, yet perfectly formed, St Davids has the honour of being Britain’s smallest city. It’s also a conservation area in the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park that can trace its roots back to the fourth century when St David – the patron saint of Wales – lived here. Despite its size there’s plenty to explore; St Davids Cathedral is a captivating sight, both its majestic exterior and painted ceilings within. Its neighbour is the medieval Bishop’s Palace; although roofless much of the structure remains intact. Or, if you’d rather be in the great outdoors, the city is fortunately located on the St Davids Peninsula so you’re just steps away from joining the Pembrokeshire Coast Path to enjoy walks with those gorgeous views in every direction.

See whales and dolphins, seals and porpoises, puffins and razorbills on a private charter out to Ramsey Island and other islands further afield. Dream Escape can arrange to take you out on the water from St Davids and around the islands, sailing through narrow rock gorges and past extraordinary caves. This is a fantastic opportunity to explore the lesser-known bays and coves of the stunning offshore → islands, including Skomer Island, a National Nature Reserve, and Grassholm, home to the most spectacular gannetry in southern Britain. Pembrokeshire's offshore islands are a highlight of any visit to the National Park. Each one has its own special character and unique landscape, where wildlife flourishes and time stands still.

Back on the mainland, delicious local produce is always on the menu at St Davids Kitchen, a restaurant which follows the farm-to-fork initiative. Feast upon Welsh Black Beef, reared just outside the city, Ramsey Island lamb and venison as well as St Davids lobster. Make sure you leave room at the end of the meal for the locally sourced Welsh cheeses.

There’s a lovely word in Welsh that describes a cuddle or a warm safe place; this St Davids restaurant has taken it as its name and has ensured its meaning is prevalent throughout. Cwtch is a cosy, comfortable eaterie where you’ll find divine local food on its menu; Solva crab, Welsh ribeye steak, Caerfai cheeses and Welsh lamb are all there to tempt you.

Skomer Island, a National Nature Reserve, and Grassholm, are home to the most spectacular gannetry in southern Britain

ACTIVITIES

Carew Castle and Tidal Mill Carew Castle’s rich history spans over 2,000 years and tells of knights of the realm, kingmakers, Elizabethan intrigue and Civil War devastation. Set in a stunning location overlooking a 23-acre Millpond, the Castle is one of the most architecturally diverse in Wales; from the west a Norman fortress, yet from the north a splendid Elizabethan mansion, and today the fascinating ruins remain. The site also includes the only restored Tidal Mill in Wales, an 11th century Celtic cross, a Medieval bridge and picnic area all linked by a milelong circular walk, suitable for buggies and wheelchairs, with magnificent views over the Millpond. Castell Henllys Castell Henllys Iron Age Village is set within thirty acres of beautiful woodland and river meadows in the heart of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. This is the only place you can walk among Iron Age roundhouses that have been reconstructed on the very spot they would have stood 2,000 years ago. Archaeologists and other experts have helped rebuild these structures with the help of volunteers, using the same kind of materials to create an authentic Iron Age experience. The history of the hill fort is brought to life by costumed guides who represent members of the Demetae tribe, which lived in this corner of Wales before, during and after the Roman invasion. Llys y Frân Lake If you are visiting with the family, the children will love Llys y Frân Lake, located in a rolling pastoral landscape in the central-northern part of Pembrokeshire near the foot of the Preseli Hills. This brand-new 350-acre outdoor activity centre is set to become the jewel attraction in Pembrokeshire’s crown. There are over 14km of trails to explore, while on the water you can enjoy sailing, kayaking, fishing, canoeing and stand-up-paddleboarding. There is a café, cycle hire and even a brand-new Pump Skills Track, learn the art of axe and knife throwing, how to fire a crossbow or have a go at archery.

WHERE TO STAY

The Grove, Narberth

Nestling in the heart of the beautiful Pembrokeshire countryside, The Grove is one of Wales’ finest restaurants and a leading small luxury hotel surrounded by manicured lawns, flower borders, meadows and mature trees. Renowned as one of the country’s most unique privately owned luxury venues with 20 intimate guest rooms and suites, together with four traditional cottages full of character. Gaze out of the windows for scenic views of the Preseli Hills, or make the short trip to Pembrokeshire National Park for stunning country walks. The hotel’s cuisine has won national awards and critical acclaim, including AA Rosettes, Wales Tourism Awards and listing in the Michelin and Good Food Guides. All dishes are served with creativity and flair, and many of the ingredients come from their very own kitchen garden – providing ultra-fresh flavours to delight every palate.

Twr y Felin, St Davids

Originally a windmill built in 1806, Twr y Felin is, along with the cathedral, the only high-rise structure in St Davids. Purposely positioned on the peninsula to harvest the ever-blowing winds, it lasted as a working windmill for 100 years, before the sails fell off just one too many times. Reinvention saved it then, as it has time and again. Becoming a hotel gave the building a new life, and it has remained mostly so ever since. Then it was a temperance hotel, today it is Wales' first contemporary art hotel, filled with over 150 specially commissioned artworks and sculptures by 20 Welsh, British and international artists. Designed to challenge the traditional, inside you'll discover a contemporary space, accented with bespoke handcrafted furniture, linen wallpaper, and velveteen sofas.

The original windmill tower is the obvious space for the best room in house! The three-floor suite includes its' very own observatory, which boasts spectacular 360 degree views of the St Davids peninsula and beyond. On a clear day, the islands of Skomer, Grassholm and Ramsey, pierce the horizon of St Brides Bay, whilst the Preseli Hills offer a mountainous backdrop to the mostly marine landscape. The night sky is incredible, Dream Escape can arrange for you to enjoy a Star Gazing Hamper which includes binoculars, torches, constellations guidebook, camping chairs and thermos of ‘tiddly’ hot chocolate.

Roch Castle, St Davids

Roch Castle rests high above the landscape on its volcanic, rocky outcrop, providing 360-degree views of Pembrokeshire. Built in the 12th century on the Landsker line, (the divide between the Welsh speaking north and the English speaking south), it has over 800 years of history. Since its total restoration in 2009, it has been leased a new life. Its historic footprint remains intact, from the circular entrance hall with exposed rock, to the D-shaped room at the very top where the myth of Adam de Rupe lives on. But, it is more than just a fortress. It is unforgettable. The five-foot thick walls enclose an aristocratic dining room and intimate chapel to remind us of its past, whilst the enormous bath tubs, high end luxury beds and glorious Sun Room, with floor to ceiling glass walls, have preserved the castle for centuries to come. Inside and outside is equal in stature.

Step out onto the fourth floor viewing platform for views to revere. Look south, past the prominent turrets to snapshot Skomer Island emerging from St Brides Bay, west, to the St Davids peninsula jutting out into the Celtic Sea, and north, to the rolling Preseli Hills heading into the heart of Wales.

Penrhiw Priory, St Davids

The definition of tranquillity, Penrhiw Priory is a retreat for the mind, body and soul. Built in 1884 by the Church in Wales as a Vicarage, it thereafter became a home and a guesthouse, before returning to its religious roots as a priory for nuns in the 1960s. Following their departure in 1985, it once again became a host for leisure guests drawn to St Davids, and has been so ever since.

Restored with the utmost care, original features subtly contrast the modern interiors. Suede wallpaper, generous sofas, and art inspired by the beauty of nature, evoke a warmth throughout which extends out to the exterior.

Lush, landscaped gardens contrast the wild flower meadow carpeted with yellow pea-like flowers of bird's-foot trefoil, purple thistle-like heads of black knapweed, and cheerful white heads of the oxeye daisy, whilst in spring, the woodland becomes a sea of daffodils and bluebells. The priory's spiritual past breathes a calming energy, protected by the elegant, purple-hued stone of Caerbwdi Bay, the same stone that shelters the historic 6th century church that lies in the valley below, just a few hundred metres further along the channel of the River Alun. A stone's throw from the city and beach, the location is unrivalled. At Whitesands Bay, the striking hills of Carn Llidi can be summited for breathtaking views of Ramsey Island and St Davids Head, whilst inland, the tips of the cathedral extend above the treetops to remind you of its grandeur.

**Tenby Harbour with houses reflected in still water Tenby, Pembrokeshire**

Find out more

Michael Davies, Creative Planner "I could be forgiven for growing up with a romanticised vision of Pembrokeshire; it is after all the source of the bluestones of Stonehenge, the location of the cathedral founded by St. David, and the setting for the earliest tale in Welsh literature. I was naturally a little sad to find the county is no longer lost in the Middle Ages; but I discovered the vestiges of the past are complimented by the spectacular coastline, and the small towns and villages that sit near the cliffs and beaches. In the rich pastureland of the county's centre, I paid my first ever visit to an artisanal cheese-making farm; although no longer active, many other suppliers are now providing top-quality local produce to the pubs and restaurants of this fascinating area.".

⬥ michael@dreamescape.co.uk

→ dreamescape.co.uk

This article is from:

Dream Escape Magazine | Summer 2021

by Contista Media