7 minute read
Art and Literature of the South Downs
Tucked between the verdant folds of the South Downs is a little-known cultural enclave. Rich in literary and artistic history, dotted with quaint villages and brimming with spectacular scenery, it’s the perfect destination for lovers of cultural encounters.
The county town of Lewes in East Sussex is set within the South Downs National Park. The town is a two-hour drive from London and home to a Norman castle, crooked timber-framed Tudor houses and some sensational bonfire celebrations. John Paine, the Britishborn American political activist lived in Lewes for a time. His writings triggered the American Revolution and ultimately led to the USA’s independence from Great Britain.Venture a short way out of Lewes and you’ll discover the Sussex landscapes that have inspired writers, artists and musicians. Envelope yourself in the scenic South Downs, see the spectacular Seven Sisters chalk cliffs and follow the gently meandering curves of the Cuckmere River. ''Too much for one pair of eyes,'' Virginia Woolf wrote about the landscape, ''enough to float a whole population in happiness, if only they would look.'' Let’s explore…
CHARLESTON FARMHOUSE
Artist couple Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant made Charleston their home in 1916. The farmhouse became a Sussex bolthole for the intellectuals, writers and artists who made up the forward-thinking Bloomsbury Group. These included Vanessa’s sister, Virginia Woolf and husband Leonard, E.M. Forster and other contemporaries.
As soon as the couple moved in they took up their brushes and began to paint. As well as their own canvases, they embellished the farmhouse itself. Walls, ceilings, tables and chairs are painted, stencilled and tiled, turning the house into a living work of art.
Dream Escape can take guests on a morning visit to the beautifully preserved farmhouse. Enjoy a tour led by the in-house curator to see the house and art collection and learn to throw your own pot at a pottery workshop. A wander through the tranquil walled garden before coffee and cake at the newly restored café is also highly recommended.
ST MICHAEL’S AND ALL ANGELS CHURCH, BERWICK
Vanessa and Duncan didn’t stop at Charleston when it came to brandishing their brushes. They also embellished the walls of nearby Berwick church. The couple, together with her son, Quentin Bell, painted beautiful murals inspired by the frescoes of Renaissance Italy.
ALFRISTON
The village of Alfriston, set on the South Downs Way, is utterly charming. Wander the lanes lined with flint cottages, tea rooms and independent shops. Be sure not to pass by Much Ado Books, then seek out a treasure in the curiosity shop Objet Trouvé, and visit St Andrew’s Church on Alfriston Tye.
Alfriston village
IMAGES © GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/BRITAINONVIEW / TOURISM SOUTH EAST
The River Cuckmere passes nearby; walk alongside the winding river right down to the sea at Cuckmere Haven, where you’ll get stunning views of the Seven Sisters white cliffs. You’ll need to set aside a full day to walk there and back.
South Downs National Park Seven Sisters
A shorter 45-minute countryside walk takes you to the Long Man of Wilmington, a giant chalk figure carved into Windover Hill.
Long Man of Wilmington
LUNCH AT RATHFINNY
The chalk soil and South Downs microclimate make this part of Sussex the perfect location for producing English sparkling wine. Rathfinny Wine Estate has put down roots just outside Alfriston and is set to become England’s largest single-site wine estate and producer, with a number of awards already under its belt. The Tasting Room, with panoramic views over the vineyard, is the setting for a fabulous lunch of locally sourced, seasonal produce accompanied by a glass or two of Rathfinny’s Sussex Sparkling.
Lunch at Rathfinny Wine Estate
FIRLE PLACE
Sheltering in the lee of Firle Beacon lies beautiful Firle Place. The Tudor mansion with a Georgian façade was built by Sir John Gage in 1473, and his descendants still live there today.
Firle Place
The house and grounds, which cover nearly 300 acres, were used to shoot the 2020 film adaptation of Jane Austen’s Emma. Enjoy a private visit to the house and its remarkable collection of paintings, porcelain and furniture.
Before you leave Firle Place, take a moment to explore the village and its timeless pre-World War II feel. The narrow lanes are lined with flint stone cottages, the post office has barely changed in a century, and The Ram Inn has been at the heart of the hamlet for over 500 years. The central village courtyard was once home to the workshops of rural tradespeople; carpenters, blacksmiths, and bootmakers.
Louise Murray, Dream Escape's Head of Travel and Design can arrange a visit to the 150-year-old forge, which is run by blacksmith Lorraine Philpott, for demonstrations on creating unique garden sculptures.
MONK’S HOUSE
The 16th-century Monk's House in Rodmell was home to Leonard and Virginia Woolf. The unassuming property was the second of two rural retreats for the Bloomsbury Group.
Monk's House
IMAGE © NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/ANDREAS VON EINSIEDEL
Monk’s House has been well-preserved and looks as it would have done when the couple lived there, with a vague feeling they may well return at any moment. The living room contains an eclectic mix of furniture and favourite personal belongings, including Virginia’s portrait painted by her artist sister, Vanessa Bell. Climb the outside steps to Woolf’s bedroom to see her collection of Shakespeare’s plays, which she handbound and painted herself. The beautiful garden, which first attracted the couple to the property, was tamed by Leonard and is where Virginia’s writing lodge looks out onto Mount Caburn and the South Downs.
Virginia Woolfs bedroom in Monk's House
IMAGE © NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/ANDREAS VON EINSIEDEL
The Sussex landscape was vital to her writing, which she endeavoured to capture in her novels including The Years, To the Lighthouse, and Mrs Dalloway.’
Virginia suffered from depression and in 1941 she drowned herself in the nearby river Ouse. Leonard died in 1969 aged 88. Both their ashes are scattered in the garden at Monk's House.
HARVEY’S BREWERY
Visit the oldest independent brewery in Sussex in an out-of-hours tour, talking all things ale with master brewers. Harvey’s Brewery was founded in 1790 by John Harvey and still has eighth-generation family members working in the business.
For Harvey’s Best Bitter the brewery uses a blend of four local hops and their own 60-year-old strain of yeast. The final ingredient is South Downs water, drawn from an artesian well under the brewery. The rainwater, which has filtered through chalk for over 30 years, helps give the beer its unique taste. Five other beers make up the range, which are sold at the brewery’s shop.
WHERE TO STAY
THE STAR, ALFRISTON
The Star is a beautiful 15th-century inn located in the centre of Alfriston village. Once used as a rest stop by pilgrims journeying from Battle Abbey to Chichester, the inn was recently refurbished in a joint project by Olga Polizzi, and daughter Alex. The Star reopened in June 2021 and is the third hotel in their collection.
The Star, Alfriston
The ancient exterior with its low-slung Tudor beams and overhanging windows belies the light decor and comfortable furnishings within. Behind the heavy oak door is a large restaurant serving locally sourced, seasonal dishes from head chef Tim Kensett, previously of The River Cottage. A library with open fire and the central courtyard offer relaxing nooks, and the cosy beamed bar is the perfect place for a nightcap. The Star has 30 bedrooms that have all been remodelled and newly decorated with light spring colours.
GRAVETYE MANOR
This impressive Elizabethan manor house is surrounded by the beautifully landscaped gardens of William Robinson who once lived here. The Relais & Châteaux property offers a classic English country house experience. Think wood-panelled sitting rooms, antiques, open fireplaces with roaring fires, and four-poster beds in some of the 17 bedrooms.
Gravetye Manor
The glass-fronted dining room of the Michelinstarred restaurant takes full advantage of the garden views, where diners enjoy homegrown produce from the kitchen gardens.
Find out more
Louise Murray, Head of Product “Brimming with character, stunning scenery and fascinating connections, East Sussex makes for the most beautiful day trip out of London. I think it works as a fabulous option for travellers who have previously visited the Cotswolds and want to experience a new area. With our connections we can create a wonderful bespoke day to suit your interests”.
⬥ louise@dreamescape.co.uk
→ dreamescape.co.uk
WORDS | SUZANNE JONES
