A Highland Fling: Interview with Eleanor Argyll

From the Battle of Culloden to playing host to Downton Abbey, Eleanor, Duchess of Argyll, gives the lowdown on life at Inveraray and why the castle is Scotland at its most perfect.

It’s Scotland on a plate,” says Eleanor about Inveraray Castle. Her husband, Torquhil, the 13th Duke, is the latest in line to take on the seat of Clan Campbell on the shores of glistening Loch Fyne, an hour from Glasgow.

“You’ve got Highland cows, red squirrels, eagles, amazing historical trees and water. It’s exactly how Scotland is meant to look,” continues Eleanor who lives in the castle with her husband and their three children: Archie, Rory and Charlotte.

Inveraray Castle was commissioned by the 3rd Duke, inspired by a sketch by Sir John Vanbrugh, the architect of Blenheim Palace. It was completed in 1789 by architects Roger Morris and William Adam. After a fire in 1877, corner towers with striking conical roofs were added. It was Margaret, Duchess of Argyll, married to the 11th Duke, who opened the castle to the public. She hit headlines for scandals – ‘Marg of Arg’ reputedly had 88 lovers, and her divorce from the Duke was dramatised in the BBC’s A Very British Scandal – but she was also savvy, with a business mind.

In 2002, Torquhil and Eleanor, née Cadbury (of the chocolate empire), inherited Inveraray, shortly after getting engaged. They took over the castle straight away. However, the building required some renovations. “We did nothing to the historical side but it was a freezing cold house. So, we put in 120 radiators, powered by wood chips. We only heat the bedrooms and kitchens, the places we live in. We don’t heat any staterooms. They’re too precious.”

Torquhil, Eleanor and children

These precious staterooms include the Armoury Hall, with a soaring 21m ceiling, displaying a breathtaking 300 pieces of armoury used in various Campbell battles, including Culloden. The Parisian-style Tapestry Drawing Room, with dripping chandeliers, has an original set of Beauvais tapestries. Then there’s the Saloon, lined with family portraits (including a Gainsborough), housing a grand piano where Lerner and Loewe composed music for My Fair Lady.

The lavish State Dining Room, with stunning walls by French artists Girard and Guinard, is Eleanor’s favourite. “All of the walls and ceilings are hand-painted and decorated with little red squirrels. Exquisite. It’s interesting – you see this masculine castle from the outside but then the dining room interiors are very pretty and feminine, in soft green, blues and pinks.”

Inveraray Castle

The garden is equally magnificent, with trees planted by distinguished visitors, including Queen Victoria, David Livingstone and William Gladstone. The formal gardens, in the shape of the Saltire, Scotland’s national flag, retain the original design. Look out for daffodils in spring, carpets of bluebells in May and vibrant red, pink and white rhododendrons throughout the summer. The head gardener can do tours.

Alongside hosting rousing annual events, including the Highland Games (open to visitors), Inveraray is used as a filming location, most famously as Donegal Castle in the Downton Abbey Christmas special. Eleanor remembers: “We were sworn to secrecy. But, of course, with Maggie Smith and Michelle Dockery walking around our pretty small town, the cat was soon out of the bag. The cast were really good and very professional. They fished in the river and stalked for deer. It was good fun.”

Tapestry Drawing Room

We were sworn to secrecy. But, of course, with Maggie Smith and Michelle Dockery walking around our pretty small town, the cat was soon out of the bag.

The last few years have been challenging with COVID-19 (a “shocker”). However, visitors are nearly back to normal numbers. “I like the historical side of the castle and am fascinated by how people lived and worked,” says Eleanor who also runs the excellent Castle Tearoom, using the best of Argyll ingredients. Torquhil is more interested in the outdoors. He’s always outside with a chainsaw. Today, a tree was blown down in the wind so he’s gone off with the dog and our eldest son to sort it out.”

Eleanor, Duchess of Argyll

The best way to experience Inveraray is an all-exclusive stay, offered by Dream Escape. Guests can arrive by helicopter on the lawn. There are six bedrooms (three turreted), with private bathrooms. Two have tapestry four-poster super king-sized beds. Eleanor, who gives private tours, explains: “I have kept the original look of the state bedrooms. I just had everything decorated and replaced the beds with beautiful, monogrammed sheets from Peter Reed. The bathrooms have now got underfloor heating and Floris products. It still looks authentic and beautiful.”

The estate is known for its fantastic produce – complete with oysters from the loch. Guests can fish for small spate salmon and trout with the Duke. Or there’s deerstalking with the gamekeeper. Either way, the castle cuisine is superb. Eleanor can organise for Michelin-star chefs to come in for a dinner in the State Dining Room. There’s the option of a cèilidh in the hall, a bagpiper piping in guests, and you can have your own kilt made. There’s excellent whisky, thanks to Torquhil’s role as representative of Pernod Ricard distillers. He also hosts tastings.

Beyond the castle, go for a scenic stroll to ruined Kilchurn Castle or visit the mighty Cruachan Dam, where part of Star Wars’ new movie Andor was filmed. Potter across to picturesque Castle Stalker by boat. There’s Seafari in Oban for other fascinating boat trips. And, while you’re in Oban, check out the Distillery, owned by Diageo, and enjoy a private whisky-tasting experience. Cross the bridge over the Atlantic to the Isle of Seil and explore An Cala Garden – former home of Frances Shand Kydd, mother of Princess Diana. Continue the island hopping with a visit to Easdale, one of the Slate Islands, once the centre of the Scottish slate industry.

Inveraray Castle from Dùn na Cuaiche.

Further south, there’s the Himalayan-style glen Crarae Garden. Another highlight is Kilmartin Glen, with one of the most important concentration of Neolithic and Bronze Age remains in Scotland. With over 350 ancient moments (150 being prehistoric), it’s a ritualistic landscape of chambered cairns, stone circles, henges, lists and cup and ring marks.

So, what is the future of Inveraray Castle? “We want to keep on improving the castle so we can pass it onto Archie. Torquhil always says you’ve got to hand something on in a better condition than when you inherit it. With a building that’s 300 years old, it’s a bit of a challenge but we do the best we can.” It seems the Argylls are doing a fantastic job.

Find out more:

David Tobin, Owner and Director

“Any visit to Inveraray inevitably starts with an amazingly scenic journey by road or helicopter. The estate is as splendid as the castle itself and a hike up to the magnificent viewpoint is a must for those that are able. However, the highlight will be a private tour of the castle followed by drinks and dinner if the Duke & Duchess are in residence.”

⬥ david@dreamescape.co.uk

WORDS | HARRIET COMPSTON