COOKERY EGP 25 TND 6.5
JOD 3 KWD 1
QAR 15 BHD 1.5
OMR 1.5 SAR 15
LBP 6000
A FourPlus Publication
Vol 1 | Issue 3
PLUS
AED 10
CAPTURING EVERY WOMAN’S HEART AND E V E R Y M A N ’ S PA L AT E
"Food must excite the senses" — Chef Denis Martin shares his culinary secrets. Main Course
Têtê-À-Têtê
ARABIC EDITION ALSO AVAILABLE
Japanese Cuisine - Art on a Plate Spanish and Emirati Recipes Pies - Who Can Resist One? The Sweet Saga of Dates Chopping Board
HAVE A GREAT ORIGINAL RECIPE TO SHARE?
cp-apr-jun-2012-cover.indd 1
FACEBOOK.COM/
COOKERYPLUS
SPECIAL
Recipes for kids by Chef Sanjeev Kapoor 3/21/12 3:09 PM
ADVT_CP_Oct-Dec 2011_Noor Oil_Page IFC_Eng.indd 1
10/4/2011 12:48:18 PM
Eng_ADVT_CP_Jan-Mar 2012_Allegro ad_Page -08.indd 1
1/5/2012 10:30:18 AM
COOKERY EGP 25 TND 6.5
JOD 3 KWD 1
QAR 15 BHD 1.5
OMR 1.5 SAR 15
LBP 6000
A FourPlus Publication
Vol 1 | Issue 3
PLUS
AED 10
CAPTURING EVERY WOMAN’S HEART AND E V E R Y M A N ’ S PA L AT E
"Food must excite the senses" — Chef Denis Martin shares his culinary secrets. Main Course
Têtê-À-Têtê
ARABIC EDITION ALSO AVAILABLE
Japanese Cuisine - Art on a Plate Spanish and Emirati Recipes Pies - Who Can Resist One? The Sweet Saga of Dates Chopping Board
HAVE A GREAT ORIGINAL RECIPE TO SHARE?
FACEBOOK.COM/
COOKERYPLUS
SPECIAL
Recipes for kids by Chef Sanjeev Kapoor
In this issue
Vol 1 | Issue 3
MEET CHEF DENIS MARTIN WHO WANTS TO POPULARISE ‘MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY’ IN THE CULINARY WORLD.
6 Art on a Plate
PAGE
PAGE
“Food must excite the senses”
12
Little Wonders in the Kitchen
40 Also
LEARN HOW COOKING FOR, AND WITH, KIDS CAN BE A FUN ACTIVITY.
FOOD STUFF TIDBITS FOOD FOR THOUGHT CHOPPING BOARD
Recipe Corner Gambas Al Ajillo Paella De Marisco Pollo Al Chilindrón Crema Catalana Muhalla Samak Kofta Fogat Diyay Al Batheeth 4
PAGE 44 PAGE 47 PAGE 48 PAGE 50
SPANISH AND EMIRATI RECIPES
PAGE
Issue Special
PAGE
PRECISION AND ELABORATE CEREMONY ARE THE HALLMARKS OF JAPANESE CUISINE.
20
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-contents-editorial-page 04-05.indd 4
3/21/12 3:07 PM
PLUS
COOKERY EDITORIAL SIRAJ BOLAR
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
MAHBOBA BAQER HUSSAIN EDITOR IN CHIEF
ALIM BOLAR EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
VINITA BHATIA GROUP EDITOR
SANJEEV KAPOOR, SALLY PROSSER, SARAH WALTON EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTION
RITA D’SOUZA EDITORIAL CONSULTANT
MARTA YANCI FOOD CONSULTANT
MARKETING JASBIR BOLAR MARKETING DIRECTOR
KAIZEEN BOLAR HENA MEERZA BOLAR BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
FINANCE R K THAROOR PRESIDENT
DESIGN FOURPLUS ADVERTISING LLC GRAPHIC DESIGN
ALIM BOLAR
F
rench author Anthelme Brillat-Savarin once said that the discovery of a new dish does more for the happiness of mankind than the discovery of a star. We agree, and know how people who love to cook get excited to unearth a new recipe. That’s one reason why CookeryPlus provides you with a wide range of recipes that’s been tried and tested by our expert chefs.
PHOTOGRAPHY
TALAAT SENGAB 360 ARABIC SOLUTIONS TRANSLATION & TYPESETTING OF ARABIC EDITION
DISTRIBUTION UNITED PRINT & PUBLISHING PRINTING
This issue, we unravel the mystique of Japanese cuisine, where every meal’s preparation amd presentation is an artistic creation in itself. In ‘Tête à Tête’ Chef Denis Martin, who has 2 Michelin stars to his credit, talks about molecular gastronomy and how he loves to create delicious morsels that tantalize a diner’s taste buds.
ABUDHABI MEDIA CO DISTRIBUTION
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS CHEF MARIANO ANDRÉS, MANAGER, SEVILLE’S, WAFI SPANISH RECIPES
CHEF PATRICK, EXECUTIVE CHEF, BEACH ROTANA HOTEL, ABU DHABI FRENCH RECIPES TRANSLATION
MARTA YANCI EMIRATI RECIPES FOOD STYLING
JASMINE BOLAR, KAIZEEN BOLAR
In our ‘Recipe Corner’ section, Marta Yanci takes us on a journey through Spanish and Emirati recipes, which have a rich culinary heritage, in her own inimitable style. Cooking with kids can be fun and enlightening, and celebrity chef Sanjeev Kapoor shows us how to get them interested in cooking, with some recipes where they can even help out! And if you, like everyone else, are a pie lover, then you will surely enjoy our ‘Food Stuff ’ column, which takes you on a culinary trip to the world of pies.
FOR COORDINATION IN ‘RECIPE CORNER’
FOTOLIA STOCK IMAGES
CookeryPlus is published by FourPlus Advertising LLC, Dubai and printed at United Print & Publishing, Abu Dhabi Vol.1 Issue: 3 | Apr-Jun 2012
And that’s not all... there’s an article on dates and the regular sections like ‘Tidbits’ and ‘Chopping Board’ that we are sure you would love to read. So read on to add premium to your home-cooking!
Siraj Bolar MUMBAI | DUBAI | SINGAPORE All correspondence should be addressed to FOURPLUS ADVERTISING LLC, P O Box 119755, Dubai, UAE Tel.: (9714) 3254401 Fax: (9714) 3254457 E-mail: cookeryplus@fourplusmedia.com
Views and opinions expressed in this publications are not necessarily those of FourPlus Advertising LLC. While every effort has been made to ensure accuracy of information published neither FourPlus Advertising LLC nor any of its employees accept any responsibility for any errors or omissions.
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-contents-editorial-page 04-05.indd 5
5
3/21/12 3:07 PM
CULINARY ART
Japan’s Gift to World Cuisine ‘A
Art on a Plate
So much minimalist perfection can be intimidating to those of us who are of the meat and potatoes, or rice and curry kind.
MIND YOUR MANNERS Many Japanese restaurants are modelled on a traditional Japanese dining room. The dining table is a low rectangular table (zen), surrounded by zabuton or large flat cushions placed on tatami mats, on which diners are expected to kneel or sit with legs to one side (women) or sit cross-legged (men), naturally with their shoes off. Guests are welcomed with scented hot towels or oshibori to freshen their hands.
The ceremony and etiquette that surrounds a Japanese meal can also be daunting. There is almost a reverential solemnity, an air of calm and seriousness of purpose that surrounds it, where eating is not just the assuaging of hunger, but a ritual and celebration. Originating in the Chinese banquetstyle of dining, Japanese dining etiquette is based on the formal dining customs of Samurai warriors, as typified in the traditional kaiseki meal, or first tea ceremony of the year.
Food is served in individual lacquer or china bowls, or plates of varying shapes suited to the dish, sometimes arranged all together on individual trays. Spoons or other cutlery have no place at a Japanese table; chopsticks are the traditional implements, with perhaps a flat wooden spatula for serving rice.
rt on a plate’ is what best describes Japanese food. Each dish is picture perfect: vibrant bursts of colour alongside quieter hues; clean-cut geometric shapes – whorls, squares and rectangles – arranged with precision on gleaming lacquered plates. And oh, the textures – sticky, silky, crisp and crunchy – with salty, punchy flavours, which though hard to capture on a canvas, are a delight to the senses.
6
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-culinary-art-japanese-page-6-7-9-10.indd 6
3/21/12 3:17 PM
However, spoons may be provided for certain dishes like chawan mushi (savoury egg custard). Eating with chopsticks has rules of etiquette, which a guest is expected to follow. Every guest is provided with his or her own wooden or lacquer chopsticks, and a small stand to rest the chopsticks when not in use. Although based on Chinese chopsticks, Japanese ones are more pointed and tapering at the ends.
Precision and elaborate ceremony are the hallmarks of Japanese cuisine. There’s a place for everything and everything has to be in its place.
THE TABLE IS LAID A traditional Japanese meal consists of a bowl of steamed rice a bowl of miso or soup, and three or four side dishes or ozaku, which can be of chicken, meat, fish or vegetable, each cooked in a different style. Individual servings are arranged in front of each guest. Pickled vegetables or tsukemono are served on the side. It is customary for a guest to compliment the hostess for the beautiful presentation of the meal before eating. And there is much to praise, as a Japanese meal is always a work of art. There is artistry in the preparation and arrangement of each dish, with a variety of garnishes,
rICe
What YoU read » gohan or MeshI: Plain steamed rice served in a bowl. and What YoU get » oKaWa: Glutinous or sticky rice, also used to make mochi, sweet rice
JAPANESE
MENU-TIAE
cakes. » onIgrI: Rice balls with savoury fillings of fish or pickled fruit, wrapped in seaweed - the original Japanese ‘sandwich’. » KaMaMeshI: Traditional dish of rice and vegetables and/or chicken or seafood, cooked in an iron pot. » ZosUI: Stewed rice and vegetables or meat » doMBUrI: Steamed rice in a bowl with various toppings. noodLes
» soBa: Thin brown buckwheat noodles in a steaming bowl of meat or vegetable broth. » YaKI soBa: Fried soba noodles. » Udon: Thick white wheat noodles usually in a broth or sauce. » raMen: Yellow noodles served in a broth. sUshI
» » » »
nIgrI-ZUshI: Vinegar-flavoured rice (sushi rice) topped with fish sashimi. MaKI-ZUshI: Sushi rice and vegetables or fish rolled in seaweed (nori). teMaKI: Nori cones filled with sushi rice, fish and vegetables. ChIrashI: A bowl of sushi rice topped with fresh ingredients.
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-culinary-art-japanese-page-6-7-9-10.indd 7
7
3/21/12 3:17 PM
eng-advt-cp-apr-jun-2012-poultry-al-khazna-eng-ad-page-08 1
19/03/12 11:01 AM
colours and combination of flavours and textures. A fine sense of balance is achieved with all the five tastes: sweet, spicy, salty, bitter and sour; and five colours: yellow, black, white, green, and red, represented at a meal. FRESH FOOD FAST Freshness, seasonality and elegance are the hallmarks of a Japanese meal. The philosophy behind Japanese cooking is to retain the natural tastes of food with a minimum of artificial processes. And this is reflected not only in the ingredients, but in the methods of cooking. For the most part, Japanese food is light – mostly steamed or cooked in light broths, or grilled. The Japanese have thus perfected the art of cooking at the table. This ensures that the freshest ingredients are cooked before a guest and served at once. Teppanyaki or teriyaki are grilled at the
table, while sukiyaki and shabu shabu are examples of steam boat cooking. Surrounded as the country is by the sea, it is no wonder that fish plays a stellar role in a meal. The fish is so fresh that there is no ‘fishy’ smell or taste, just the clean flavours of the sea. “Eat it raw first of all, then grill it, and boil it as the last resort”, is a popular Japanese saying. Think sashimi – those magical mouthfuls of thinly sliced raw fish, dipped in a soy-based sauce, with a hint of wasabi and a translucent pink slash of pickled ginger! And sushi – rolled up spirals or tiny logs of rice soused in shari (a mixture of vinegar, sugar and salt) encircling or topped with raw or barely cooked vegetables and seafood (neta). What began as a way of preserving fish encased in a cocoon of rice, has now become a popular snack, with the proliferation of sushi bars, especially those equipped with kaiten zushi (a sushi train or conveyor belt).
GYUNIKU TERIYAKI (Grilled Marinated Beef) »» Ingredients 6 slices beef fillet steak 6 tablespoons soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger 1 teaspoon sugar 2 tablespoons oil 4 tablespoons water or dashi (stock) 1 teaspoon cornflour To garnish
Sliced spring onions and sesame »» Method Marinate the beef slices in a mixture of soy sauce, garlic, ginger and sugar for at least 30 minutes. Heat the oil in a griddle pan or grill, till quite hot. Place the steaks, reserving the marinade, on pan or grill and cook for 1 minute on high heat. Turn the fillets over and cook the other side till brown. Lower the heat, and cook till tender. In a pan, add the water to the reserved marinade and stir in the cornflour. Taste, and if necessary, add a little more soy sauce, ginger and sugar to taste. Cook till the sauce thickens; pour over the meat. Slice the steaks into thin pieces and assemble again in their original shape on the serving plate. Garnish with sliced spring onions and sesame. The steaks can also be served on a bed of rice.
9
Sushi began as a way of preserving fish encased in a cocoon of rice, and has now become a popular snack. SOUP-ER BOWLS Rice is the most important food in Japan, its status reflected in its name in Japanese – gohan or honourable food. Noodles are next in terms of importance. The traditional noodle is the thin soba or buckwheat noodle, which is eaten in a broth with vegetables, seafood or chicken. Japanese soups and broths that accompany both rice and noodles, are based on dashi, which is a clear flavourful stock made from boiling a number of ingredients including dried fish, kelp (seaweed) and shiitake mushrooms. Fresh fruit and vegetables are an integral part of a Japanese meal, but sea plants have been a unique feature since ancient times. Nutrient-rich kelp is used to flavour broths and seaweed is dried into sheets (nori ) that are used to make sushi. SO FAR, SOY GOOD Japanese food would not be what it is without the soya bean, which was introduced to Japan by the Chinese. Soy bean curd, or tofu, soy sauce or shoyu are indispensable in Japanese cuisine. In addition to soy there are some keynote flavours provided by rice vinegar (su), horseradish (wasabi) and umami seasoning, which is actually monosodium glutamate. Dried foods are another key feature, adding their unique flavour to dishes. Dried mushrooms such as shiitake are used extensively even in cooking vegetables, while as mentioned above,
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-culinary-art-japanese-page-6-7-9-10.indd 9
3/21/12 3:17 PM
dried sea weed and fish flakes are essential ingredients in the ubiquitous dashi or soup stock. Every meal is accompanied by a bowl or small cup of green tea or sencha. The famous Japanese tea ceremony with geishas dressed in kimonos performing the elaborate rituals with practiced grace and perfection is symbolic of the Japanese reverence for their meals. A unique iced barley tea or mugicha is another favourite beverage. Japanese sweets or wagashi include candied dried fruit and dishes like mochi or sweet sticky rice cakes and kakigori (shaved ice with fruity syrup toppings) and manju – sticky rice with a sweet bean filling. Milk-based desserts and puddings are not common as milk itself does not play a big role in a Japanese diet. THEY CAME, THEY COOKED, THEY CONQUERED While Japanese cuisine is a product of its geography and climate, history has
also played a role in its evolution. Many centuries ago, the Chinese introduced tea, chopsticks, wheat and rice to the country, while the Portuguese who began trading with Japan in the sixtheenth century, are believed to have introduced the concept of deep-frying – kroketts (croquettes) and tempura – a corruption of tempero or spices in Portuguese are examples, and the art of baking – sweet stuffed pan (from Portuguese pão or bread), and kasutera or sponge cake are popular Japanese confections. Today, globalization is responsible for the popularity of several dishes and eating habits that are far from traditional. Curry-Rice, for example, a Japanese version of the Indian staple, is a popular dish on restaurant menus.
copious amounts of green tea the Japanese consume, and the cuisine becomes a recipe for good health. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Rita D’Souza
SUNOMONO (Cucumbers In Vinegar)
The various foreign influences apart, traditional Japanese cuisine is one of the healthiest cuisines in the world. With its emphasis on vegetables, soya, rice and fish and low-fat methods of cooking, Japanese food is very low in cholesterol, fat, and overall calories, and very high in fibre. Add to that the
CHOPSTICKS RULE! DON’TS
DOS
» Place the chopsticks with the tips resting on the rest (hashioki), the points facing to your left. » Pick up the chopsticks with the right hand and then steady them with your left hand to get a proper grip. » Hold the chopsticks towards the top end and not in the middle or in the bottom third. » When not in use, rest the chopsticks on the hashioki.
10
» Do not hold the chopsticks in your fist – it is considered rude and threatening. » Do not use chopsticks to move dishes or utensils around. » Do not pick up a dish with the same hand that is holding the chopsticks. » Do not wave your chopsticks in the air or point them at people, while talking. » Do not use the chopsticks to sort through the food to pick out a choice piece of food. » Do not pierce a piece of food with the points of the chopsticks. » Do not lick the points of the chopsticks. » Do not leave your chopsticks sticking out of the rice – they resemble incense sticks that are used at funerals. » Do not pass food from your chopsticks to another’s. » Do not use chopsticks to help yourself to food from another’s bowl or plate.
» IngredIents 2 small green cucumbers, peeled 3 tablespoons white vinegar 1 tablespoon water ¾ teaspoon grated fresh ginger 2-3 teaspoons sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt » Method Cut the cucumbers in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Cut across into thin slices. In a bowl, mix together the vinegar, water, ginger, sugar and salt. Stir till the sugar dissolves. Pour over the cucumber slices and toss to mix. Adjust the flavours. Leave to marinate for at least 1 hour before serving as a side dish.
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-culinary-art-japanese-page-6-7-9-10.indd 10
3/21/12 3:17 PM
Eng_ADVT_CP_Jan-Mar 2012_ Frylite ad_Page -14.indd 1
1/5/2012 10:29:09 AM
TÊTÊ-À-TÊTÊ
“
MAQUEREAU ET BETTERAVES ROUGES (MACKEREL AND RED BEETROOT) » METHOD BEETROOT JELLY
» INGREDIENTS 400ml (14 fl oz) red beetroot juice 2g (0.1 oz) agar agar ½ Thai fresh hot chilli pepper 8 fresh mackerel fillets 20 onion rings 1 teaspoon puréed lemon preserve 16 chive blossoms 50ml (1.7 fl oz) of argan oil
12
Mix beet juice with agar agar. Heat it to 80°C/176°F with the Thai chilli pepper and a little salt. Strain through a fine sieve and pour into a 2cm deep container and let it set in the refrigerator. Place some baking paper in a non-stick frying pan. Heat the pan and place mackerel fillets on the paper and cook till partially cooked, leaving them slightly raw. TO SERVE
Cut the beetroot jelly into small cubes. Arrange them on a serving plate. Place the mackerel fillets on top. Garnish with fried onion rings, puréed lemon preserve and chive blossoms. Drizzle with argan oil and serve.
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-tete-a-tete-chef-denis-martin-page-12-13-15-16.indd 12
3/21/12 3:32 PM
“Food must excite the senses”
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Chef Denis Martin recently participated in Gourmet Abu Dhabi 2012, a 3-day gourmet festival organised by Beach Rotana, where he cooked a ‘Cheese Dinner’ for select diners.
C
hef Denis Martin, a prominent representative of avante-garde cuisine, is on a mission to popularise the concept of ‘molecular gastronomy’. Yes, you heard right! It is also referred to as molecular cuisine and we assure you it is not something that’s created in test tubes in a laboratory. These delicious morsels are prepared using techniques that conservative cooks might be sceptical about. But if you spend a few minutes with Chef Denis Martin, we are sure you will be dying to try out a few of his signature dishes.
there’s a whole lot else that you can experience from the kitchen of Chef Denis Martin.
We must confess to expecting a ‘know-it-all’ attitude from this chef, given his 41 years of culinary experience and 2 Michelin stars. But Chef Denis Martin surprised us with his candid statement, “If I said I know a lot, I would be an idiot! I wake up every day with the thought of learning and experimenting more!”
“Does your mother cook the same
One of the signature dishes he serves at his restaurant is called ‘Nothing’. The customer is served an empty plate and spoon and then from an empty jar, ‘Nothing’ is poured onto the plate. So now with ‘Nothing’ on his plate the guest is asked to taste ‘Nothing’ with a spoon. The guest uses the spoon to taste it and believe it or not, his mouth is filled with the tastes of stock made from cucumber and dill! Unbelievable? This is just one of his signature dishes and
“So what is molecular cuisine?” we ask him and he responds with a question, “What is traditional cuisine?” “Well, what we’ve grown up on... what our mother cooked for us,” we respond.
One of the signature dishes that Denis Martin serves at his restaurant is called ‘Nothing’.
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-tete-a-tete-chef-denis-martin-page-12-13-15-16.indd 13
13
3/21/12 3:32 PM
ADVT_CP_Oct-Dec 2011_Al Baker_Page IBC_EN.indd 1
10/4/2011 12:49:44 PM
“As professionals in this field, we have a deeper understanding of food and are using this knowledge to create tastes and experiences that go beyond normal expectations.” way as your grandmother did? Or your ancestors, say a 100 years ago? Obviously not!” he adds. “So, what you consider to be traditional cuisine is not really traditional! It has evolved. Right? This evolution will continue to happen. To me molecular cuisine is traditional cuisine — they are both the same. A few newer techniques that make cooking more interesting and fun are being used by everyone today — be it the microwave or electric cookers. As professionals in this field, we have a deeper understanding of food and are using this knowledge to create tastes and experiences that go beyond normal expectations. And therein lies the uniqueness of this cuisine. It’s in a way — unexpected! But it is the same as what you and I consider traditional cuisine.” A very basic example of how one can have an egg perfectly boiled but not hardened inside, in spite of cooking it for three to four hours, gave us a tiny glimpse into the possibilities of molecular cuisine. “Every chef, whatever cuisine he specialises in, should explore molecular cuisine. It will enhance the experience that he provides his guests. In fact, we all do it in some ways. But a few of us have explored this in more detail and it has been a wonderful learning experience,” he states.
He goes on to explain how our olfactory senses (sense of smell) are actually responsible for 90 per cent of how we taste food and then he gets us interested in an experiment that he says helps people understand this. Take a spoon of sugar and mix a little cinnamon powder in it and then hold your nose with your fingers so that you can’t smell anything. Now put the sugar with the cinnamon powder into your mouth and you will taste only the sugar. Then suddenly let go of your nose and the explosion of the taste of cinnamon that fills one’s mouth is an experience that one must go through to get an understanding of how taste actually works. By this time, we were all eager to try this out ourselves, but we wanted to know more about the chef himself. So how does Denis Martin’s kitchen feel? He likes his kitchen to have a sense of humour and considers it a sin to serve people in a boring environment. According to him, food is like music and must be enjoyed. He considers his restaurant to be a place where lovers of food come to have an experience that is unique and exciting. “Like music, food must be exciting. It must get people involved. If you listen to music, the experience must move you. Similarly, if you are eating at my restaurant, I have to ensure it excites you,” he says. And excite you, he will. Some of his dishes from the 27-course dinner he serves at his restaurant at Vevey in Switzerland are unbelievable. He has signature dishes like the boiled egg, cooked at 196° C, with a spice cigarette that is eaten while it is giving off puffs of smoke. Another amazing dish is hot, raw prawns with ginger, peanut purée and cilantro oil. And yet another fantastical dish is red mullet over eggplant with a beer cube and pancetta spray. Can this be tried at home? “Yes. But we are professionals and this kind of cuisine requires perfection and attention to detail. It’s like this — everyone can play a guitar but everyone can’t be a CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-tete-a-tete-chef-denis-martin-page-12-13-15-16.indd 15
15
3/21/12 3:32 PM
Jimi Hendrix or Eric Clapton. Yes, one can attempt it, but what I can put into my cuisine is my experience and my learning and this can’t be taught. It has to be learnt. practised and perfected,” he explains. Are the equipment and ingredients for cooking molecular cuisine very different? Supposedly not! In fact, he requires just a few additional equipment to what the regular chefs use. He says it’s not the equipment but the understanding of the molecular structures that define the cooking. “Everything you taste is a combination of flavours that are created with the coming together of certain molecular structures that nature has put together to create the particular taste. Tomato has a combination of 80 to 90 such structures that nature combines to create its distinctive taste. Now the closest to this combination can be found in artichokes and if you combine a tomato dish with artichoke juice, the flavour will be compounded and it will amaze you. Similarly oyster and kiwi are very close. If you smell a very ripe kiwi, you could almost smell an oyster! Using this knowledge and creating a cuisine that not just excites you but even surprises you is what molecular gastronomy is all about,” he adds. This conversation could have gone for hours, had it not been for his busy schedule. But we wanted to know more about his cuisine and about others who use similar techniques. He states that there are many who do this and two chefs in particular were Ferran Adrià, a bio-nutritionist chef, and Heston Blumenthal, a British chef. Do they create the same type of recipes? “Oh no! The music may be rock and roll but the treatment by Eric Clapton, Jimi Hendrix or The Rolling Stones is not the same. It’s the same with us. You could say Ferran, Blumenthal and I play our own versions of rock and roll!” So can humankind survive on molecular cuisine? “Of course, you can. But the point is, would you? You listen to music every day but you attend a 16
concert once in a while. My experience is like a concert. The experience, the uniqueness and the surprise element is what I specialise in. If you visit my restaurant, you will cherish the experience, like you cherish an Eric Clapton concert!” As a final question, we ask him if a chef using traditional methods of cooking were to enter his kitchen in Switzerland, »» TOMATO AND MOZZARELLA FOAM INGREDIENTS
800g (1 lb 12 oz) tomato pulp strained 1 sheet leaf gelatin, soaked 150g (5 oz) grated mozzarella 100g (4oz) mascarpone 80g (3 oz) egg whites
would he be shocked? “I genuinely hope so!” he laughs in his inimitable style, and in true rock star fashion allows us to shoot a few candid pictures of him. We thoroughly enjoyed the backstage experience, Chef Denis Martin and we look forward to your gastronomic concert! >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> - Photography/Text: Alim Bolar
PIZZA MARGHERITA
METHOD
Heat the tomato pulp and dissolve the gelatin in it. Combine all other ingredients, and pass through a fine sieve. Put the mixture into an iSi siphon and insert two CO2 cartridges one after the other. Refrigerate for at least two hours. »» MOCK PIZZA BREAD INGREDIENTS
140ml (5 fl oz) water Salt 16 ml (0.5 fl.oz) flour 40ml (1.3 oz) peanut oil METHOD
Process all ingredients to make a batter. In a non-stick frying pan, place a 6-8 cm ( 2.5-3-inch) stainless steel ring. Heat the frying pan. Pour enough batter into the ring to make a thin pancake. Cook until the pancake turns brown and looks lacy. Remove and make more pancakes with the rest of the batter. »» DRIED TOMATO POWDER
»» TO ASSEMBLE THE DISH
INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS
15g (0.5 oz) tomato pulp, strained 5g (0.1oz) powdered egg whites Salt
30g (1oz) basil, chopped 5g (0.1 oz) dried oregano
METHOD
Spread about 15ml (0.5 fl oz) ) of the tomato foam on a serving plate. Place a disc of the mock bread on top of the foam. Mix together the dried tomato powder and oregano. Sprinkle the mixture on top of the foam. Garnish with fresh basil leaves and serve.
Mix all the ingredients together. With a spoon, thinly spread small amounts of the mixture to the size of a tomato leaf on a sheet of baking paper. Cook in an oven preheated to 55°C/131°F until dry.
METHOD
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-tete-a-tete-chef-denis-martin-page-12-13-15-16.indd 16
3/21/12 3:32 PM
ADVT_CP_Oct-Dec 2011_Khaleej Eggs_Page 18_Eng.indd 1
10/4/2011 12:30:28 PM
Shama Food Industries LLC, P O Box 234894, Dubai, UAE. Ph: +971 4 2679079, Email: shama@iffco.com, Web: www.shamaspice.com
eng-advt-cp-apr-jun-2012-shama-eng-ad-page-18 1
19/03/12 11:17 AM
eng-advt-cp-apr-jun-2012-rahma-rahma-ad-eng-page-19 1
19/03/12 11:11 AM
RECIPE CORNER
A little tapas... a little muhalla...
A culinary journey through Spain and the United Arab Emirates. Gambas Al Ajillo Paella De Marisco Pollo Al Chilindrón Crema Catalana Muhalla Samak Kofta Fogat Diyay Al Batheeth
T
his issue, we cover a few recipes from Spain and the United Arab Emirates. With Spanish cusine, we discovered that the secret to the taste of tapas is the Spanish hospitality that comes along with it! While paella and tapas are acknowledged favourites globally, there is a lot more to Spanish cuisine. Chef Mariano Andrés of Seville’s - The Spanish Tapas Bar shares a few recipes, which have been made easier for home cooking by Marta Yanci. Like Spanish, the Emirati cuisine too promises a taste of its rich heritage. As Chef Marta says, “Emirati cuisine can be considered as a hidden gem.” In a multicultural and multinational region like the UAE, food lovers enjoy all types of cuisine, but traditional Emirati food is surprisingly not as well known as one would expect. Marta has presented traditional recipes in a contemporary way, being careful to ensure that the dishes retain their original flavours.
1
2
Our food consultant for Recipe Corner in this issue is Marta Yanci, a Spanish chef and owner of Marta´s Kitchen, a Dubai- based bespoke catering company, which offers traditional and fusion cuisine. Marta believes in cooking with fresh ingredients and encourages everyone to enjoy the complete cooking process, from the shop to the table and everything in between! You can follow her on her website www.martaskitchen.com and blog (www.blog.martaskitchen.com), where she shares easy and healthy recipes.
GAMBAS AL AJILLO (SHRIMPS WITH GARLIC) A traditional tapa, which is cooked and served in earthenware dishes or cazuela de barro, it is sometimes referred to as Gambas al Pil Pil because of the spluttering sound of prawns sizzling in hot oil. Serve with plenty of crusty bread to mop up the garlicky juices. PAELLA DE MARISCO (SEAFOOD PAELLA) Paella is named for the wide shallow pan with handles in which it is cooked. Made with Spanish short-grained rice (bomba) and flavoured with saffron, paella can contain any variety or combination of meat, seafood and vegetables. Look out for the much sought after crusty bits at the pan’s bottom! POLLO AL CHILINDRÓN (BRAISED CHICKEN WITH PEPPERS) This flavourful chicken dish from the Aragón region of Spain, is traditionally cooked in a chilindrón or heavy cast iron pan. The chicken is braised on the stove or in the oven with peppers and herbs to produce a hearty, wholesome meal.
20
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-page-20-21.indd 20
3/21/12 3:27 PM
3
4
CREMA CATALANA (SPANISH CRÈME BRÛLÉE) This Spanish dessert similar to French crème brulée, originated in Catalonia in the North-Eastern region of Spain. Unlike its French cousin, it is cooked on a stovetop and set in small cazuelas or shallow earthenware bowls. The sugar topping is traditionally caramelised using a heated salamander - a traditional iron disc or plate with a long handle specially designed for the purpose.
Issue Food Consultant: SPANISH CUISINE
5
MUHALLA (DATE CRÊPES) Also known as Mhala, these sweet Emirati crêpes are ideal for breakfast or at teatime. The dough incorporates dates, very common in the region, which add an extra touch of sweetness making them difficult to resist!
SAMAK KOFTA (EMIRATI FISH CAKES) Fish cakes are found in many cuisines around the world. 6 Children, in particular, enjoy these a lot, and it is a great way of introducing seafood in their diet! This Emirati version, full of spices and flavour, is sure to become a favourite with the whole family.
Chef Mariano Andrés, Manager, Seville’s - The Spanish Tapas Bar, Dubai
Issue Food Consultant: EMIRATI CUISINE
FOGAT DIYAY (SPICED CHICKEN WITH RICE) The piquancy of Bzar, a traditional blend of spices found in every Emirati household, and the sour power of dried limes (limoo Omami) are the secrets to this very Emirati version of Al Majboos, a popular Middle Eastern rice and chicken dish. BATHEETH (DATE SWEETS) The ubiquitous date is put to good use in these traditional Emirati sweet treats. The preparation process is fairly simple, but compliments are guaranteed if shared with friends!
7
8
Marta Yanci Marta’s Kitchen, Dubai
R
E
C
I
P
E
S
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-page-20-21.indd 21
21
3/21/12 3:27 PM
22
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-spanish-cuisine-page-22-23-24-25-26-27-28-29.indd 22
21/03/12 6:10 PM
Gambas Al Ajillo (Shrimps with Garlic and Chillies)
A popular traditional tapa, which is best eaten sizzling hot. Serves: 4 Preparation Time: 10 minutes Cooking Time: 6-8 minutes Category: Appetizer
Ingredients 20 shrimps, peeled and deveined {TesTed wiTh KhaleeJ CooKiNG shRimPs}
2 tablespoons olive oil Salt 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley, plus for garnishing 3 garlic cloves, finely sliced 1/2 tablespoon red chilli flakes 1 teaspoon finely chopped rosemary (optional) To serve: Crusty bread
5 4 3 2 1 Spice
Labour
Index
Method
Preheat oven to 200째C/400째F/Gas 6. Place the shrimps in an ovenproof pan with a spoonful of olive oil and some salt. Grill the shrimps in the preheated oven for around 3 minutes, till they are partially cooked. now turn them over, sprinkle with chopped parsley, the remaining olive oil, garlic and chilli flakes and cook in the oven once again until the shrimps are tender. This should take another 3-4 minutes. Garnish with parsley and rosemary, if desired and serve with crusty bread.
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-spanish-cuisine-page-22-23-24-25-26-27-28-29.indd 23
23
21/03/12 6:10 PM
Chef’s tip: Garnish the paella with parsley and lemon wedges!
24
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-spanish-cuisine-page-22-23-24-25-26-27-28-29.indd 24
21/03/12 6:10 PM
Paella De Marisco (Seafood Paella) This delicacy packed with the flavours of the sea is easily the most popular paella of all the varieties that Spain has to offer. Serves: 4 Preparation Time: 45 minutes Cooking Time: 30 minutes Category: Main Course
Ingredients 4 tablespoons olive oil {Tested with Rahma olive oil} 16 shrimps, peeled and deveined 2 white fish fillets, (like monkfish, halibut, or sea bass) 4 squids, cleaned and cut into rings 1/2 red onion, diced 1 green pepper, diced 1 red pepper, diced 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 Roma tomatoes, diced Salt 120g (4 oz) rice, preferably Spanish short-grained bomba rice Pinch of saffron (Tested with Shama’s Leon Mayer’s Spain Saffron) 100g (4 oz) shelled green peas 250ml (8 fl oz) fish stock 8 mussels, scrubbed 20 clams, scrubbed 2 lemon wedges 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
5
4 3 2 1 Spice Labour
Index
Method The best way to cook a paella is to use a paella pan, which is a shallow pan with two handles. Or you can choose any shallow heavy bottom pan. We will start by heating the olive oil in the pan and sauteing the shrimps, fish and squid until they are half cooked. This will add some seafood flavour to our paella pan! We will now set them aside and save them for later. Cook the onion and peppers for 2 or 3 minutes on medium heat. Add garlic, tomatoes and some salt. Cook for another 5 minutes and then add the rice, saffron and peas. Give it a good stir before adding the stock and bring it to a boil. The most important thing is not to stir your rice from this point on! You should let this cook on medium to low heat for about 15 minutes. Arrange the cooked seafood, mussels and clams nicely on the rice, and cook for another 3 minutes. Once the paella is done, cover it with foil and let it rest for an extra 10 minutes before serving.
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-spanish-cuisine-page-22-23-24-25-26-27-28-29.indd 25
25
21/03/12 6:10 PM
26
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-spanish-cuisine-page-22-23-24-25-26-27-28-29.indd 26
21/03/12 6:10 PM
Pollo Al Chilindrón (Braised Chicken with Pepper Sauce) A homely everyday Spanish dish, it makes for a complete meal served with crusty bread and a crisp salad. Serves: 4 Preparation Time: 1 hour Cooking Time: 45 minutes Category: Main Course
Ingredients 1 kg (2 lb 3oz) whole chicken, separated into thighs and breast {TesTed wiTh al KhaZNa ChiCKeN}
Salt and pepper Juice of half lemon 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chervil 1 teaspoon finely chopped thyme 1 teaspoon finely chopped rosemary 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 4 ripe tomatoes 2 onions, chopped 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 red peppers 2 green peppers 25g (1 oz) black olives 25g (1 oz) green olives
5 4 3 2 1 Spice
Labour
Index
Method We will start by marinating the chicken. To do so, mix salt, pepper, lemon juice, herbs and garlic in a bowl. Cover the chicken cubes with this marinade and refrigerate for an hour. While the chicken is marinating, we will prepare our tomatoes. To save some time peeling them and to ensure we don´t waste any pulp, first dip them in boiling water for a minute. Once they cool down slightly, we can easily remove the skin. now scoop out the seeds and chop the tomatoes into small cubes. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. It is now time to grill the chicken on a baking tray in the preheated oven for 10 minutes. In the meantime, we will prepare our sauce. Start by sauteing the onion with some olive oil on medium heat. When it starts turning transparent, add the tomatoes and diced peppers and cook uncovered for around 10 minutes on medium to low heat. Add the chicken and let it cook in the sauce for another 10 minutes. Sprinkle with fresh parsley, green and black olives and serve immediately.
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-spanish-cuisine-page-22-23-24-25-26-27-28-29.indd 27
27
21/03/12 6:10 PM
28
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-spanish-cuisine-page-22-23-24-25-26-27-28-29.indd 28
21/03/12 6:10 PM
Crema Catalana (Spanish Crème Brûlée) This silky dessert with the crunchy burnt sugar crust is also called Crema de Sant Josep as it is always served on the feast of St. Joseph in March. Serves: 4 Preparation Time: 3 hours 10 minutes, including refrigeration Cooking Time: 20 minutes Category: Dessert
Ingredients 120g (4 oz) sugar 4 egg yolks {TesTed wiTh KhaleeJ FaRm FResh eGGs} 1 teaspoon cornflour 1 cinnamon stick Lemon rind 400 ml (14 fl oz) milk
5 4 3 2 1
Method Beat the egg yolks with 100g (3.5 oz) sugar until it is mixed well. now place it in a pan and add milk, cornflour, cinnamon and lemon rind. Cook this mixture on a low heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens (this might take about 20 minutes). Remove the cinnamon stick and lemon rind and pour the crema catalana into 4 small ramekins or bowls. Let it cool and refrigerate for at least 3 hours. Before serving, preheat a broiler. Remove ramekins from the refrigerator and sprinkle the remaining sugar over each ramekin. Place the ramekins under the broiler, and allow the sugar to caramelize (should be golden brown) for approximately 10 minutes. Remove and serve immediately.
Spice
Labour
Index
Chef’s tip: While cooking Crema Catalana remove it from heat as soon as the mixture thickens, to prevent it from curdling.
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-spanish-cuisine-page-22-23-24-25-26-27-28-29.indd 29
29
21/03/12 6:10 PM
Muhalla (Sweet Emirati CrĂŞpes )
Also known as Mhala, these lacy crĂŞpes are ideal for breakfast or at teatime. Makes: 20 Preparation Time: 90 minutes Cooking Time: 15 minutes Category: Appetizer
30
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-emirati-cuisine-page-30-31-32-33-34-35-36-37.indd 30
21/03/12 6:08 PM
Ingredients 400g (14 oz) ripe pitted dates 600g (1 lb 5oz) flour, preferably whole wheat TESTED WITH AL BAKER CHAKKI FRESH ATTA
10g (0.3 oz) dry yeast Salt 700ml (24 fl oz) warm water 120g (4 oz) sugar 4 eggs, beaten
Method We will start by soaking the dates in warm water for at least 30 minutes. After this, blend them in a food processor. Mix the flour, yeast, water, sugar and salt. Then add eggs and the dates. Cover well and let it rest ideally overnight or for at least 1 hour. It is now time to cook the muhalla. To do so, use a non-stick crêpe pan. Grease it lightly and pour a small amount of batter. Rapidly distribute the batter evenly over the pan and let it cook for a couple of minutes. You can now flip it and cook for another minute. Carry on doing the same with the remaining batter.
5 4 3 2 1 SPICE
LABOUR
INDEX
Serving suggestion: Best eaten with fresh soft cottage cheese (chami), clarified butter (ghee/samen) yoghurt or delicious date honey.
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-emirati-cuisine-page-30-31-32-33-34-35-36-37.indd 31
31
21/03/12 6:08 PM
32
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-emirati-cuisine-page-30-31-32-33-34-35-36-37.indd 32
21/03/12 6:08 PM
Samak Kofta (Fish Cakes)
Flavourful fish cakes, which are sure to become a favourite with the whole family! Makes: 16 small cakes Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes Category: Main Course
Ingredients 2 red onions, finely chopped 2 tablespoons olive oil 1kg (2lb 3 oz ) minced hammour (grouper/ reef cod or any other fleshy fish) 4 eggs 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley 1 teaspoon turmeric 1 teaspoon ground cumin 4 garlic cloves 4 tablespoons breadcrumbs (for coating) 1 teaspoon baking powder Juice of 1 lemon Salt and pepper Vegetable oil, for frying TESTED WITH NOOR FRYLITE OIL
Method Start by chopping the onion finely and sauteing it with the olive oil until it starts browning (it will take about 10 minutes at a low-medium heat). Now, with the help of a food processor combine the rest of the ingredients and add the onion. Form small cakes and coat them with breadcrumbs. When you are ready to enjoy them, simply fry them in very hot oil until golden and serve with some fresh salad.
5 4 3 2 1 SPICE
LABOUR
INDEX
Chef’s Tip: Add some Bzar (Arabian mixed spice) to the fish mixture for that quintessential Emirati flavour.
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-emirati-cuisine-page-30-31-32-33-34-35-36-37.indd 33
33
21/03/12 6:08 PM
Chef’s Tip: For a stronger flavour, feel free to experiment and add more spices.
34
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-emirati-cuisine-page-30-31-32-33-34-35-36-37.indd 34
21/03/12 6:09 PM
Fogat Diyay (Chicken with Rice) Chicken on top — literally! Serves: 4 Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 40 minutes Category: Main Course
Ingredients 2 garlic cloves, chopped A small piece fresh ginger, chopped 2 onions, finely chopped 2 ripe tomatoes, finely chopped 1 teaspoon Bzar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon ground cumin 2 fresh green chillies (optional), finely chopped 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) whole chicken (separate thighs, drumsticks and breasts) Juice of 1 lemon 2 dried limes Salt and pepper 200g (7 oz) long-grain rice TESTED WITH SHAMA LONGGRAIN RICE 400 ml (14 fl oz) water 4 tablespoons olive oil TESTED WITH RAHMA OLIVE OIL
5 4 3 2 1 SPICE
LABOUR
INDEX
Method
We will start by preheating the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4. Then we will mix the garlic and ginger together. In a large pot, cook the onion and the garlic and ginger paste for a couple of minutes. Then add the diced tomato and the spices and mix well. It is now time to add the chicken, lemon juice and dried limes, as well as some salt and pepper. We will let the chicken cook until it is almost done, after which we will take it out of the pot and set it aside. Add the rice and water to the same pot, cover and cook in the preheated oven until the juices have been absorbed – this will take approximately 15 minutes. Now put the chicken on top and return to the oven for another 10 minutes.
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-emirati-cuisine-page-30-31-32-33-34-35-36-37.indd 35
35
21/03/12 6:09 PM
36
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-emirati-cuisine-page-30-31-32-33-34-35-36-37.indd 36
21/03/12 6:09 PM
Al Batheeth (Date Sweets)
Absolutely delicious any time of the day, especially with a steaming cup of gahwa! Makes: 20 Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Category: Dessert
Ingredients 200g (7 oz) whole wheat flour TESTED WITH AL BAKER CHAKKI FRESH ATTA
200g (7 oz) dates, pitted and chopped 50g (2 oz) samen (ghee) 1 cardamom pod 1 teaspoon ground ginger Icing sugar for coating
Method Start by browning the flour in a pan at a low-medium heat. Make sure you stir regularly to avoid it from burning. Now add the dates to the flour and cook for a couple of minutes. Add the samen or ghee, cardamom and ginger. Mix well and set aside to cool. Once the dough is cold enough, create oval-shaped sweets – or any shape you might enjoy! Get creative! Sprinkle some icing sugar over them and enjoy!
5 4 3 2 1 SPICE
LABOUR
INDEX
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-recipe-corner-emirati-cuisine-page-30-31-32-33-34-35-36-37.indd 37
37
21/03/12 6:09 PM
ADVT_CP_Oct-Dec 2011_Khaleej Omegga_Page 43_Eng.indd 1
10/4/2011 12:41:23 PM
eng-advt-cp-apr-jun-2012-culinary-tiffany-ketchup-ad-page-39 1
19/03/12 10:59 AM
ISSUE SPECIAL
Little Wonders in the Kitchen
Cooking for, and with, kids can be a fun activity, says celebrity chef Sanjeev Kapoor.
C
ooking with children can be pure magic. All it takes is a little patience and oodles of love. And your reward is to see the joy on their faces as they see the final product of their efforts!
Encourage your kids to spend time in the kitchen with you and watch the level of their interest in cooking soar. Some little ones (as young as seven or eight) would love to string beans, shell peas, whisk eggs or dot cookies with chocolate chips. Cooking with an adult is a safe and interesting activity that also keeps them occupied. And you can help them learn about nutrition and the benefits of a well-balanced meal, at the same time. Kids, by nature are very inquisitive. So why not channel their curiosity and introduce them to the fun they can have in the kitchen? It will be an enchanting experience for them to see how foods of different textures and colours change when they are cooked. Is your child a picky eater who does not like most of what you put on his plate at dinner time? Kids who are fussy about eating will be more inclined to taste food that they have prepared themselves. This is probably the best incentive for a parent to introduce their children to the joys of cooking! 40
Young children love to help their parents in the kitchen as it makes them feel all grown up.
Kids can also explore their artistic side while cooking. Help them layer the vegetables on a pizza to represent a face. Or show them how to use icing and sprinkles to decorate cakes and write messages on it. Cooking provides limitless opportunities for creative expression!
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-issue-special-cooking-for-kids-page-40-41-42.indd 40
3/21/12 3:23 PM
COOKING TIME IS FAMILY TIME
It would not be wrong to say that a family that cooks together can have loads of fun together. What better way is there to bond with your children than to cook with them? Help them bake a batch of cookies over the weekend and you have created memories that they will cherish forever. Not to mention, getting them to understand some of the basic science that they are taught in school as well. You can also involve the children in helping you pack a lunch basket if you are headed for a picnic, or are visiting family. Carrying home-made goodies has its own charm. It brings a sense of comfort and some excitement. And you can involve the kids in deciding what to cook and pack for the trip. How about whipping up some home-made muďŹƒns and cookies or sandwiches? They are easy to prepare and kids enjoy eating them as well.
STARTING YOUNG Do you have a budding chef at home? Would you like to help the talent grow further? Then, all you need to do is lend a helping hand to your kid who wants to cook along with you! Young children love to help their parents in the kitchen as it makes them feel all
grown up. Just make sure you you keep them away from heat sources, and knives or sharp instruments. Involve your children in age-appropriate tasks. Stamping shapes out of dough or vegetables with cookie cutters, is a fun activity that kids of four and five
years will enjoy. Call on your seven or eight-year-old when bread needs to be buttered (use a spatula or butter knife), sandwiches need to be arranged, or oranges need to be manually juiced. When older kids want to cook using a heat source, we suggest you supervise them closely and give them wooden CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-issue-special-cooking-for-kids-page-40-41-42.indd 41
41
3/21/12 3:23 PM
ladles and spoons and thick potholders to use, so they do not burn their hands on hot metal handles or spoons. A good time to get children to spend time in the kitchen is during their vacations. This is a time when kids are enthusiastic about trying out new activities, while parents are always looking out for ways to keep them constructively occupied, while cooking exciting meals on demand! Vacations are also times when kids can invite their friends over to play and there will always be demands for quick meals. Instead of calling up the nearest takeaway, this is the perfect opportunity
to engage the children in cooking something simple and healthful like noodles or pasta with their pals, and having a good time while they are at it. The more you involve children in preparing food, the more interest they show in consuming what they make. In fact home-made pizzas are a brilliant
way of encouraging them to taste different ingredients. Watch the look of delight on their faces as they later devour them. And once you have introduced them to the joy of cooking, there will be no looking back! >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> - Sanjeev Kapoor
FLYING SAUCERS
In this recipe, you can involve children in buttering the pizza bread, spooning out the baked beans, grating the cheese or decorating the cooked dish with sauce. FOR GREEN CHUTNEY
»» INGREDIENTS 8 teaspoons butter 8 4-inch wholewheat pizza breads 4 tablespoons green chutney 1 cup baked beans 11/2 cups grated mozzarella cheese Tomato ketchup, as required »» METHOD Spread a teaspoon of butter on one side of each pizza bread. Top with an even layer of green chutney. Spoon baked beans onto each pizza. Top generously with grated cheese. Place under a hot grill till cheese melts and starts bubbling. Cut each pizza in half and serve with tomato ketchup.
»» INGREDIENTS 1 cup fresh coriander leaves, roughly chopped 1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped 2-3 green chillies, chopped Black salt 1/4 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon lemon juice »» METHOD Grind coriander leaves, mint leaves and green chillies to a smooth paste using a little water, if required. Blend again after adding black salt and sugar. Transfer the chutney into a bowl and mix in the lemon juice.
FUN FOOD FOR FUSSY KIDS Sanjeev Kapoor’s Fun Food for Fussy Kids (available on www.sanjeevkapoor.com) makes feeding your fussy little darlings ever so easy! It’s filled with fun recipes so mealtimes need no longer be a nightmare. There are delicious recipes that have been especially created for harried mothers who have a hard time catering to their kids’ changing tastes and fancies, while at the same time providing for their growing needs.
42
STRAWBERRY MILKSHAKE
Children will enjoy scooping out the ice cream for this recipe and dressing up milkshake with whipped cream.
»» INGREDIENTS 3 cups chilled milk 8 scoops vanilla ice cream 9 tablespoons strawberry crush 4 tablespoons whipped cream 4 strawberries »» METHOD Place the milk, ice cream and 8 tablespoons strawberry crush in a blender jar and blend till smooth. Pour into 4 tall glasses. Put the whipped cream into an icing bag fitted with a star nozzle, and pipe a swirl of cream on top of the milkshake in each glass. Alternatively, squirt out a dollop of whipped cream topping from a can. Drizzle some of the remaining strawberry crush over the cream. Slice the strawberries into fans, without separating the slices, and place at the side of the whipped cream. Serve immediately.
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-issue-special-cooking-for-kids-page-40-41-42.indd 42
3/21/12 3:23 PM
ADVT_CP_Oct-Dec 2011_Khaleej_Page 19_Eng.indd 1
10/4/2011 12:32:05 PM
The ‘Food’ Stuff
Pies Who Can
Resist One? >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
There is truly nothing like enjoying a slice of pie to make you feel on top of the world. Here’s a look at the history of this culinary treat that’s easy to prepare and even easier to wipe off a plate!
W
hether cutting into the crumbly crust of shortcrust pastry to reveal a hot, savoury interior, sinking a spoon through a cloud of meringue to reach tangy lemon curd, or parting a fluffy mound of potato to delve into flakes of white fish in a silky sauce, it always feels like you are unwrapping a present when digging into a pie. The affection for pies is deep-rooted in nostalgia. Nursery rhymes tell of the British fondness for this hot, comforting meal – little Jack Horner stuck his thumb into one, Simple Simon met a pieman going to the fair, and four-and-twenty blackbirds were baked in a pie. Pies were first developed as a way of carrying food on a journey: the Egyptians, for example, covered honey in grains to make a portable dessert. The Greeks, being practical people, are credited with wrapping meat in a flour and water 44
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-food-stuff-pies-page-44-45-46.indd 44
3/21/12 3:19 PM
dough to protect and preserve it, thus coming up with the first pie crust. The Romans were adept at adding spices, and spread the delights of pie-making far and wide during their expansion of their empire; and the Europeans took to this legacy with gusto. Countries across the Middle East developed the early Greek pies into many types of pastry-encased delights of their own. Ingredients for European mince pies where brought back from the Crusades. In the fifteenth century, the Persian poet Abu Ishaq wrote in The Treasure of the Appetite, “We came
into the kitchen for this purpose, that we might show the fried meat to the pastry.” There is a huge range of sizes and fillings, with each region often having its own very particular shape, from the large, spicy, pigeon pastilla of the Maghreb, through boreks, briks, spanakopitta, lahm bi ajeen, to dainty sambousek. Across the Atlantic, pie-making helped the early settlers in America to preserve fruit longer. They used local ingredients such as pecans and pumpkin, and their culinary enthusiasm coined the phrase, ‘as American as apple pie’.
One of the most unusual kinds of British pie is from the little Cornish village of Mousehole, where whole pilchards are baked under a pastry lid with the fish heads peeping out of the crust heavenwards leading to its name - Stargazy Pie. Also famous from this part of England is the Cornish pasty, made for workmen to eat down in the tin mines. Farther north, the town of Wigan is renowned for its love of meat pies and the World Pie Eating Championships. So what exactly is a pie and what is the best way to make one? A loose »» INGREDIENTS
Countries across the Middle East developed the early Greek pies into many types of pastryencased delights of their own.
Pastry:
340g (12oz) plain (all-purpose) flour 2 teaspoons caster sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 225g (8oz) cold, unsalted butter, diced 3 tablespoons iced water I tablespoon milk Filling:
CLOVE-SCENTED APPLE PIE Serves 6
»» METHOD Make the pastry by combining the flour, sugar and salt in a bowl and rubbing in the butter until it resembles breadcrumbs (or you can pulse it in a food processor). Add the water, stir with a pastry blender or a round-bladed knife. Or pulse in a food processor, until it just comes together in a dough. Divide in half, flatten or pat into discs wrap in cling-film and rest in the fridge for at least two hours or overnight. Put the lemon juice into a bowl; then peel, core and slice the apples thickly into it, making sure the slices are coated. This will prevent oxidation and browning of apples. Reserve a tablespoon of sugar, and add the rest to the apple slices along with the cloves and nutmeg. Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/ Gas 7. Roll out one of the pastry discs into a circle so when you put it into a 30cm (12-inch) round pie dish it overhangs the
1.4kg (3lb) firm, dessert apples Juice of 1 lemon 140g (5oz) caster sugar 5-6 cloves 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg edges slightly. Pile the apple filling into the dish, brush the edge of the pastry with a little water and cover with the other pastry disc rolled out to a similar size. Trim the edges flush with the dish and crimp to seal (use your fingers or a knife and your thumb). Cut a cross in the top of the pie to let the steam escape. Lightly brush the pie with the milk and sprinkle with the reserved sugar. Bake for 25 minutes in the preheated oven, then turn the heat down to 180°C/ 350°F/ Gas 4 and bake for another 45 minutes. Cover with a sheet of baking paper, if the pastry is browning too quickly. Remove from the oven and leave to rest for a while before serving warm, or at room temperature with cream, custard or ice-cream. Warn everyone to look out for the cloves!
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-food-stuff-pies-page-44-45-46.indd 45
45
3/21/12 3:19 PM
Even pizzas are often referred to as pizza pies, their origins believed to be in the Greek pita (pie), and later in the Neapolitan pie with a tomato topping. definition is a savoury or sweet filling encased in or topped with some kind of covering. Pastry is not the only topping, for instance there is mashed potato over lamb mince in shepherd’s pie, and whisked egg white and sugar on lemon meringue pie. Besides, many ‘pies’ such as key lime and sweet potato are technically tarts, as are many open-faced pies. Even pizzas are often referred to as pizza pies, their origins believed to be in the Greek pita (pie), and later in the Neapolitan pie with a tomato topping. SOME TYPES OF PIE PASTRIES Here are some types of pastry used in pie-making: » SHORTCRUST Usually twice the weight of plain flour to unsalted butter (or half butter, half lard), with the fat rubbed into the flour to the texture of breadcrumbs, and bound with iced water. The challenge for a cook is to keep everything cold, so turn up your air-conditioning, and put all the ingredients in the fridge for at least 30 minutes before using. To make lovely, crumbly shortcrust, use a light touch, pulse if using a food processor, allow the pastry to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes or more, before rolling out. And never, ever, knead the dough. » PUFF PaSTRy A blanket of buttery puff pastry, the golden layers towering over the filling, is a delight. Although timeconsuming, it is worth making your 46
own as most frozen puff pastry contain hydrogenated or trans-fats. » HOT WaTER CRUST PaSTRy This is a robust dough used in raised pies like game pies. You’ll need a special pie mould and a bit of patience, but the results are spectacular. » ROUGH PUFF PaSTRy A quicker version of puff pastry and almost as light and flaky, it is the answer for every time-challenged cook with dreams of pies dancing in his head. » FIlO PaSTRy Filo or phyllo (which is the Greek word for leaf ) pastry takes skill to make at home as it needs to be stretched into very thin sheets. It is used extensively throughout the Middle East for all sorts of pastries and pies. While you are
SHePHeRd’S PIe WITH RoSeMARY Serves 4 » INGREDIENTS TOPPING:
900g (2 lbs) potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks 1 tablespoon cream 50g (2 oz) salted butter Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper FIllING:
15g (1/2 oz) butter 2 medium onions, chopped finely 1 large carrot, diced 5 button mushrooms, diced 450g (1 pound) lamb mince 1 tablespoon plain (all-purpose) flour 1 heaped tablespoon tomato purée 250ml (8 fl oz) stock (vegetable or chicken) 1 bay leaf 2-3 dashes Worcestershire sauce Leaves from a large sprig of fresh rosemary, chopped finely Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper TO SERVE
working, keep sheets that you are not using covered with a damp tea towel to stop them from drying out. So, if reading all that has got you excited (and hungry!), go ahead and try out a few recipes that I’ve shared with you. Happy cooking! >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> -Sally Prosser (www.mycustardpie.com)
» METHOD Put the potato into a large pan of salted water, bring to the boil and simmer for 15-20 minutes until just tender. Drain well, return to the pan with the cream, butter, some salt and pepper and mash until smooth. Use a potato ricer if you have one, and then beat with a wooden spoon for the lightest, fluffiest mash. While the potatoes are cooking, melt the butter in a large frying pan and cook the onions and carrots slowly until they are soft and slightly brown at the edges. This can take 30-45 minutes. Raise the heat slightly and add the mushrooms, cook for about 5 minutes, then stir in the mince, cooking until slightly brown. Sprinkle in the flour and add the tomato purée; cook and stir for another 4-5 minutes. Stir in the stock, bay leaf, Worcestershire sauce and rosemary. Season to taste and leave to simmer very gently for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas No 5. Transfer the mince mixture into a large baking dish and top with the mashed potato, making sure it is spread right up to the edges in an even layer. Run a fork all over the top to make score marks. Bake for 25 minutes in the preheated oven until golden brown. Serve with boiled green peas.
Boiled green peas
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-food-stuff-pies-page-44-45-46.indd 46
3/21/12 3:19 PM
TIDBITS
NESPRESSO OPENS ITS FIRST COFFEE BOUTIQUE IN ABU DHABI Premium coffee company, Nespresso, opened its first boutique in Abu Dhabi at the Abu Dhabi Mall. This is its second boutique in the UAE and will offer a range of 16 premium Grand Cru coffees with personalised service to patrons. Part of the Nestle Group, Nespresso is exclusively distributed in the UAE by Perfetto Trading Company LLC. Worldwide, it operates 220 similar boutiques. AL-BAKER CHAKKI FRESH ATTA: ENHANCED TASTE, TEXTURE AND HEALTH FOR THE ENTIRE FAMILY The Al-Baker Chakki Fresh Atta with Omega 3 is a balanced blend of stone-ground whole wheat flour, which is a source of several vitamins, and flax seeds, a source of Omega 3. They strengthen your body, keeping it healthy and in good shape. It also helps improve eyesight, besides enhancing the functioning of the nervous system, brain, liver and reduces the risk of heart diseases. Having food loaded with Omega 3 helps in preventing constipation, fighting rheumatoid arthritis and also in burning stored body fats. Now you can get all the benefits of Omega 3 in your wheat flour with the AlBaker Chakki Fresh Atta. You can also enrich your family’s diet with Al-Baker Chakki Fresh Atta that comprises eight natural grains. The ready-made blend of wheat, soy, corn, fava beans, oats, barley, channa dal (split Bengal gram) and ragi (finger millet) provides wholesome nutrition for a healthy family. This atta is a good source of essential nutrients including iron, protein, calcium, Vitamin B and dietary fibres. This mix of different grains helps you to make rotis and chapattis that are flavoursome and soft, while also being very healthy.
Jean-Marc Dragoli, Market Director, Middle East, Africa and Caribbean, Nespresso, said, “This boutique is aimed at those who value an informed and personalised engagement with the ultimate coffee experience. At the heart of our new boutique lies the desire to further engage our brand community and offer coffeelovers even more choice in all aspects of their coffee experiences in the region.” SEVERIN LAUNCHES S2 COFFEE MACHINE IN UAE German coffee machine maker Severin launched its S2 Bean-to-Cup fullyautomated coffee machine in the UAE, which according to the company is one of the fastest-growing coffee markets in the world. Eric Berchtold, Area Director, Middle East and Africa, Severin said, “Coffee’s roots are in Arabia. Indeed, for centuries, coffee drinking has been regarded in high cultural importance.” Through its one-touch technology, the S2 brews and grinds beans, making cappuccinos, lattes, and macchiatos at the push of a button without moving the cup. It is also equipped with a rotary switch E-select, so that the coffee’s strength can be adjusted by a flick of a switch. CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-tid-bits-page-47.indd 47
47
3/21/12 5:52 PM
Food FOR THOUGHT
The Sweet Saga of
Dates
Dates — an impossible fruit to overlook in this part of the world. Here’s some information on this popular and nutritious berry, and some healthy recipes that embrace its unique flavour.
T
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> he history of dates reaches back into the ancient times of the Middle East. Evidence of their existence can be found on the pillars of Luxor, the age-old plantations in the oases of Northern Africa and Arabia, from the religious stories passed down by elders, to the tradition of eating them to break the Ramadan fast. Dates originated right here in the Arabian Gulf and have found their way around the world. They can now be found in dishes as exotic as the tagines of Tunisia and the sticky toffee pudding of UK. Why? Because these ancient berries have more to them than it would appear at first glance. Historically, dates have been valued for their high sugar content and their ability to keep for long periods. They could be held responsible for the commencement of trade across the MENA region – without them, nomads would have struggled for sustenance during their arduous desert journeys. Today, we know that there is more to this tiny fruit than its sugary taste. A high content of potassium and traces of calcium, Vitamin B, magnesium, zinc, iron, fiber, 48
antioxidants, protein and fatty acids make it an excellent all-rounder (besides, fresh dates have a good amount of Vitamin C). Dates can be purchased in paste form, which is particularly useful while baking. You may also be able to find date dhibs (date honey) – a rich syrup often used as a sweetener, or simply poured on dishes such as ice cream or pancakes. In many parts of the Middle East, dates are also found in sweet shops in various forms. They are often stuffed with ingredients such as almonds, candied orange and lemon peel, tahini and marzipan, or are dipped in chocolate. In cooking, dates are used for both their sweetness and flavour. And best of all, dates don’t have any empty calories! This does not restrict them to cooking only sweet dishes – they
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-food-for-thought-dates-page-48-49.indd 48
3/21/12 3:03 PM
DATE MUFFINS
Makes 24 mini muffins
»» INGREDIENTS 200g (7 oz) dates, pitted and chopped 1/3 cup boiling water 3 teaspoons baking powder 100g (4 oz) butter 2 eggs 1/3 cup milk 200g (7 oz) plain flour 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice »» METHOD Preheat oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4. Blend dates, water and baking powder in a blender and leave to sit for at least 5-10 minutes. This will help the date skins to soften and blend well. Beat the butter until fluffy. Add eggs and continue to beat. Add milk to the date mix, and blend. Sift the flour and ground spices together. Fold the date mix into the egg mix, alternating with the sifted flour and spices Spoon into 24 mini cup cake moulds and bake for 20 minutes, or until golden and firm, yet springy to the touch.
In cooking, dates are used for both their sweetness and flavour. And best of all, dates don’t have any empty calories! are an excellent ingredient to add to full-flavoured or gamey meats such as lamb, goat or duck, where they soften the strong flavours and lend sweetness to the sauce. It is quite ironic that such a luscious fruit is borne in the harsh desert environment. It makes you want to believe that there is something lyrical about dates, which is a staple in almost every household in the Middle East. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
STAGES of DATES
Fresh dates can be purchased in different stages of ripeness and process. The khalaal stage is usually hard and smooth, yellow to red-skinned, crunchy and astringent. Not many enjoy dates at this stage, but this is when they have the highest level of vitamin C. The Bahri variety of date is probably the most palatable at this stage. Most people buy fresh dates once they reach the rutab stage – when the tips turn brown and the skin begins to wither. They however perish quickly at this stage and so must either be eaten quickly or frozen and further dried. When purchasing, the rutab dates should be juicy, slightly soft and plump. The most popular varieties at this stage are medjool and halawi, (plump and
sweet) khadrawi, (small and sweet, but can perish quickly) and thoory (very wrinkled and nutty in flavour). While shopping for dates at a market where many varieties are available, ask for samples. You will be surprised how widely the varieties differ. The next stage the dates achieve is known as tamr. This is the stage when people purchase them to use while cooking, and simply as a pantry snack. When purchasing, make sure they do not stick together. If buying in a packet, read the label – many are soaked in sugar, which can mask the dates’ true flavour. Some sugared dates are sold unpackaged – check for stickiness and sugar crystals at the tip. Some great varieties to try are safawi (rich and firm), sajaee (soft and caramelly), khudri and sufri (sweet and honeyed).
- Sarah Walton (www.thehedonista.com) CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-food-for-thought-dates-page-48-49.indd 49
49
3/21/12 3:03 PM
CHOPPING BOARD
Tips
Handy Kitchen Tips & Tricks
Dried herbs have a stronger flavour than fresh ones and should be used more sparingly. If substituting dried for fresh herbs in a recipe, use one-third of the amount specified. To avoid cooked rice from drying out while reheating in a microwave, add 2 tablespoons of water for each cup of rice. Warm it and then fluff with a spatula before serving. If you are whipping cream, ensure that your beater and bowl are chilled, as it makes the cream light and fluffy. While preserving stock in a freezer, you can save space by boiling it to reduce by half and concentrating it, prior to freezing. To enhance the flavour of certain seeds like those of pumpkin, sunflower or sesame, toast them in a dry pan for a few minutes, shaking the pan constantly. Don’t wash risotto rice as it is the starch that lends the essential creamy texture.
50
Glossary CONFUSED BY CERTAIN COOKING TERMS? WORRY NO MORE! IN EVERY ISSUE, COOKERYPLUS WILL BRING YOU A GLOSSARY OF A FEW COMMON, AND SOME NOT-SO-COMMON, COOKING TERMS: AMARETTI: These are small Italian almond macaroons, made with ground sweet and bitter almonds or apricot kernels. BRIOCHE: This slightly sweet French bread has a fluted bottom and a topknot. It is cooked in a special mould with a liberal use of butter and eggs. CAMEMBERT: This soft cheese is made from cows’ milk. It has a furry white rind speckled with beige. Its creamy interior becomes increasingly yellow as the cheese matures. FARFALLE: This pasta is shaped like little bow ties. Cheese or rich tomato sauces cling well to farfalle, since it is a relatively small pasta shape with a large surface area. GALANGAL: A root from the ginger family, it is widely used in South-East Asian cuisine, particularly Thai cookery. It is available as a fresh root, dried root or in powder form.
HUMOUR When the waitress in a restaurant brought him the soup of the day, the patron was a bit dismayed. "Good heavens," he exclaimed. "What is this?" "Oh, Sir, it's bean soup," she replied. "I don't care what it has been," he sputtered. "What is it now?"
QUOTE-UNQUOTE "Food is an important part of a balanced diet." - Fran Lebowitz
CookeryPlus
cp-apr-jun-2012-choppingboard-page-50.indd 50
3/21/12 3:05 PM
ADVT_CP_Oct-Dec 2011_Igloo_Page 38_Eng.indd 1
10/4/2011 12:36:44 PM
ADVT_CP_Oct-Dec 2011_LD Eng_Page OBC_Eng.indd 1
10/4/2011 12:51:43 PM