a guide for lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits. autumn issue 2014. exclusive to independent liquor retailers.
his passionate career
hunter valley
winemaking 101
A chat with Grant Burge’s Craig Stansborough
A closer look at Australia’s original wine region
The winemaking process, from the vine to your glass
Contents Editor’s letter....................................................................................2 Food and wine calendar.................................................................3 Your guide on how to eat and drink your way around Australia Winemaking 101..............................................................................4 The winemaking process, from the vine to your glass Drink this with that..........................................................................6 Easy and delicious food ideas for reds and whites His passionate career...................................................................10 A chat with Grant Burge’s Craig Stansborough Meet the locals..............................................................................14 Meet Michael and Sharron from Bungendore Cellars Hunter Valley..................................................................................18 A closer look at Australia’s original wine region Bring your own..............................................................................22 ideas for boy’s night in ...or a girl’s night out New product spotlight..................................................................25 Bulldog Gin and Double Jack Features Grante Burge......................................................................................8 Penfolds...........................................................................................12 Mount Gay Rum...............................................................................16 Mount Pleasant................................................................................20 Thomas Cooper Artisan Beer...........................................................26 Apple Thief Cider..............................................................................28 Elefante Tempranillo..........................................................................30
Created by Coordinate for Independent Liquor Retailers Pty Ltd localliquor.com.au Managing Editor: Alex Tricolas Contributor: Jan O’Connell Project Manager: Andrea Cano Design: Javier Steel Advertising and editorial enquiries contact: Samantha Watson T 1300 408 399 F 02 6230 4278 E samantha.watson@ilr.net.au Unit 67/12 Challis Street, Dickson ACT 2602 PO Box 157, Dickson ACT 2602 Products and prices throughout this magazine are available only at participating stores.
editor’s letter
Editor’s Letter Of all the seasons in the winemaker’s year, Autumn is perhaps the busiest. Of course, it is a time when the harvest of grapes is well under way, perhaps even completed in some regions. The process of fermentation will turn these grapes into wine, and at this point, the skill of the winemaker will come to the fore. Decisions will be made based a number of factors–amongst them the weather, the type of soil, the grape, and the winemaker’s vision for the finished product. In this issue, we give you a quick breakdown of the winemaking process as most of our winemakers are in the thick of it. It’s also a good time to consider how far the Australian industry has come, and to tip our hats to the pioneers of Australian wines. We take a look at our first wine growing region, Hunter Valley, and find out a little about how it all began and where it is now. We also head to South Australia to lend an ear to famed Barossa winemaker Craig Stansborough of Grant Burge fame. We have included an easy to read calendar of some of the more interesting food and wine events that will be happening around the country as we celebrate the season and we get an insight to some great wine and premium beer labels. It’s been a big summer, and we may miss those hot days at times, but Autumn is here. Bring it on.
Alex Tricolas Editor
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autumn calendar
Your food and wine calendar here’s how to eat and drink your way around australia over the next few months. cheers!
APRIL 4-13 Orange F.O.O.D Week Food Of Orange District showcases the region dubbed the “food basket of NSW”. Wine tastings, farm gate tours, cooking demonstrations, cabaret, picnics, a huge ‘Night Market’ and Forage, plus the 100Mile Dinner featuring dishes made from local produce sourced within 100 Miles of Orange. orangefoodweek.com.au
5-6 Canberra District Wine Harvest Festival The region’s cool-climate wineries present events including grape stomping, live music and master winemaking classes, plus the chance to taste the region’s best wines. canberrawines.com.au
24-28 Kangaroo Island FEASTival Celebrate fine seafood and Kangaroo Island’s local gourmet produce and wine. Join local cooks for dinner in their homes, meet the producers, enjoy degustation dinners, campfire cooking and barbecues by the sea. tourkangarooisland.com.au
27-4 may Tasting Australia For 2014, Tasting Australia’s theme is Origins, celebrating the idea that the ‘where you are’ is the ‘who you are’ of modern Australian wine
and food. This is South Australia’s premier food and wine festival, and the action isn’t just in Adelaide. Wine regions such as the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, Coonawarra and Adelaide Hills offer tastings, wine auctions and food and wine master classes. tastingaustralia.com.au
MAY 1-31 Aussie Wine Month Aussie Wine Month, organised by Wine Australia, will involve tastings, promotions and celebrations across the country showcasing Australia’s reputation for producing some of the world’s best wines. The theme of the third annual Aussie Wine Month will be ‘Regional Heroes’. wineaustralia.com
16-25 High Country Harvest Festival Surrounded by the Victorian Alps and alongside the Murray River, this region is home to some of Australia’s finest gourmet producers. Taste hand-made butter, artisan cheeses, internationally-known wines and fine Australian lagers and ales. highcountryharvest.com.au
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21-25 Savour Tasmania Internationally recognised chefs present a range of degustation dinners focusing on natural produce in Hobart and regional Tasmania. The festival also includes the Tasmanian Red Wine Weekend featuring a range of master classes and wine tastings. savourtasmania.com.au
JUNE 21 – mid-august Canberra & Capital Region Truffle Festival Billed as “a taste of mid-winter magic” this festival is a chance to discover more about the mysterious black truffle. Follow the truffle dogs on their hunts, enjoy truffle degustations at fine restaurants, and take classes in how to cook with this magical fungus. trufflefestival.com.au
27-29 Truffle Kerfuffle Held in Manjimup, Western Australia, this event includes a gala dinner, truffle hunts, master classes and farmers’ markets. Western Australia is the biggest producer of truffles outside Europe, so there’s plenty of black gold to be found. trufflekerfuffle.com.au
Lovedale Long Lunch You’ve heard of progressive dinners; this is a progressive lunch. Feast and dance around seven Hunter Valley wineries, with local restaurants providing the gourmet food. lovedalelonglunch.com.au autumn issue 2014.
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autumn feature
Winemaking 101 autumn is upon us, the time when the next vintage of wine is being made. depending on the climate and the type of wine, the process may be well advanced or just starting; but without a doubt, the months following summer are the busiest time of a winemaker’s year. if you’ve ever wondered just what it takes to get the final product into a bottle and ready to buy at your local, here is a quick breakdown of the process. of course, not every wine–or winemaker–is the same, so often the winemaker may employ different techniques; and sparkling and fortified wines will require a different approach. that said, we can say with a degree of confidence that these five steps are crucial.
the harvest A simple fact, and a good starting point, is the rather obvious understanding that without grapes, there is no wine. Many winemakers will agree that great wine is made in the vineyard, and that many factors such as choice of grape, location, climate and soil, along with decisions about when to harvest, will have come into play. Assuming all has gone well and the season’s grapes have reached their desired maturity, harvesting may begin, either mechanically, or by hand. Most estates will prefer to pick by hand as this process, although time-consuming, is far kinder to the fruit. Once the grapes arrive at the winery, they are sorted to eliminate rotten or under-ripe fruit before crushing.
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crushing and pressing For centuries, the juice of the grape was extracted by stomping; and many rituals were developed around this quaint tradition. By the middle ages, hand operated equipment such as basket presses were in common use; and of course today, the modern crushing and pressing process is highly advanced, efficient and hygienic, albeit devoid of some of the more romantic elements of stomping. Grapes are first run through a crusher to break the skins of the berries and, if desired, a destemmer to separate them from their stems. The process differs depending on what the end product is. White grapes are not usually destemmed, but are pressed immediately to avoid any colour or tannins. Red grapes are usually destemmed and left to begin their fermentation process with skins intact (known as must), ensuring lots of colour in the final product, before being pressed at a later date. With many red wines, the must will be included in the secondary fermentation, and not separated until after fermentation is complete.
When it comes to a top shelf red, the winemaker has bottle aged it prior to release; and in the case of Penfolds Grange, the bottle ageing duration is five years.
fermentation Once crushing and pressing is complete, the juice (or must in the case of reds) is transferred to fermentation tanks. Bacteria naturally affect fruit, converting its sugar to alcohol, a process known as fermentation. Our nearest relatives, the chimpanzees, have been observed getting a kick out of eating rotten fruit, so it’s fair to assume our ancestors enjoyed the buzz when they stumbled across a rotten but otherwise fun-packed fruit, leading to the eventual cultivation of wine. High sugar content and lots of juice make the grape an ideal candidate to capitalize on this process. But of course, naturally occurring bacteria are wild and unruly, and allowing this to run its course without human intervention will result in unstable and erratic outcomes. Modern winemakers neutralize the natural bacteria present on the grape skins and in the air with additives such as sulphar dioxide. Once this is done, they introduce cultivated yeast of their choosing to metabolise the sugar in a controlled fashion. Fermentation will take anywhere from a week to a month or more. A number of factors will determine alcohol and sugar content of the final product. Climate, sugar content of the fruit, and fermentation time will have all played a part.
clarification and stabilisation These steps have not always been at the top of the winemaker’s list, but modern consumers expect their wines to be bright and clear; and for many reasons, the fermented product will be quite hazy or unstable. Wines often contain yeast and bacteria, residual sugar or excess protein, all contributors to a hazy wine; and residual sugars that remain in the wine may cause an unwanted fermentation in the bottle, spoiling the wine. Because quality reds are often aged for a year or so before bottling, they tend to become clear and stable during that time, but this is not the case with whites or blush wines. Clarification may involve procedures such as racking–the siphoning of the wine from one tank to the next, in the hope that most of the solids remain at the bottom of the tanks–or fining, adding clay, egg whites or other agents that adhere to the unwanted solids– and then racking again to another tank or barrel.
ageing and bottling There are two types of ageing. One is known as bottle ageing—this happens when you buy that Penfolds Grange and stash it away for your kid’s twenty first. The other is bulk ageing—that is what a winemaker does before bottling to ensure quality upon release. Bulk ageing is usually the domain of reds, as most whites and blush wines, and even some lighter reds are bottled immediately after the clarification process. Of course, when it comes to a top shelf red, the winemaker has bottle aged it prior to release; and in the case of Penfolds Grange, the bottle ageing duration is five years. Once again, there is no hard and fast rule here, and ageing is at the winemaker’s discretion. Once upon a time, wine bottles were sealed with corks, but as technology has developed and the snob factor has declined, screw caps are now commonplace in all but the most top shelf of wines. In the end, the final product appears at your local, ready for you to enjoy.
autumn issue 2014.
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drink this with that
Red wine
with Venison
medallions of venison with red cabbage, orange & cinnamon
Ingredients:
Method:
- Clarified butter for frying
1. Heat a little clarified butter in a large pan and fry the onion rings until translucent. Add the cabbage and fry, stirring. Add the stock, cover and cook over a moderate heat for 25-30 minutes. The cabbage should retain a slight bite.
- 1 red onion, finely sliced into rings - 1 red cabbage, approx . 1 kg, quartered and finely sliced
2. Stir in the cinnamon, season to taste with salt and ground black pepper, remove from the heat and leave to infuse. Stir in the orange pieces and check the seasoning.
- 200 ml venison stock - 1 tsp ground cinnamon Image + recipe © StockFood / Gräfe & Unzer Verlag / Bischof, Harry
Serves 4 Prep & cook time: 1 hr
ed
dic - 2 unwaxed oranges, flesh - 8 venison medallions, approx . 75 g each
2013 St Hallett Black Clay Shiraz 750mL Bottle $1599 This Barossa Valley Shiraz is the product of a dry lead-up to vintage which resulted in low yields, but exceptional quality. It typifies the wines produced by the Barossa’s black Biscay clays, with their berry compote and summer pudding flavours. The nose is dense and packed with berries; the palate is voluptuous and smooth. Fruits of the forest and blackberry flavours are framed by soft tannins to complete this classic wine.
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3. Heat a little clarified butter in a frying pan. Season the venison with salt and ground black pepper and sear on both sides, then reduce the heat and cook for three to four minutes. 4. To serve, spoon the red cabbage and oranges onto plates and arrange venison medallions on top.
Climbing Merlot 750mL Bottle $19 Sourced from the high-elevation, cool-climate Cumulus Estate vineyard in Orange, from lowyielding vines that provide fruit of intense yet elegant flavor. Individual parcels of premium Merlot were selected from different blocks to produce this medium bodied wine, with flavours of ripe red berry fruits, plum and bell pepper and a leafy herbaceous edge. Time in the barrel adds complexity, with supple tannins and light oak following through on the finish. 99
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Vasse Felix 2011 Cabernet Merlot 750mL Bottle $2299 This generous, elegant and structured Margaret River wine displays savoury regional characters on the nose. Sweet paperbark with hints of nori give way to vibrant, red fruit aromas of Satsuma plum and candied raspberry. Oak maturation provides hints of coffee bean and grilled almond. Complex plum, red berrry and nori flavours are followed by a juicy acidity that combines with dusty, textural tannins for a long, dry and earthy finish.
Ingredients: - 4 fennel bulbs, shaved - 2 grapefruit
white wine
- 1 red onion, thinly sliced
with Kingfish
- 1 daikon (Japanese white radish), julienned For the dressing:
Serves 4 Prep time: 30mins
kingfish ceviche with fennel & grapefruit salad
- 200ml olive oil extra vir gin - 20ml white balsamic vin ega
r
- 20ml mirin
Method: 1. In a bowl, combine all the dressing ingredients. 2. Arrange the fish slices on the plate. Pour dressing over the fish and refrigerate for 15minutes. 3. Combine fennel, grapefruit, onion and daikon in a separate bowl.
Image + recipe © Denman Cellars Beer Café / Deca, Zibby
4. Place the salad on top of the kingfish and garnish the plate with cucumber ribbons, shiso cress and edible flowers.
- 2 lime, juiced - 2 red chili, finely diced, no seeds. - Salt For the garnish: - Lebanese cucumber , cut into ribbons - Edible flowers - Shiso cress
2012 Evans & Tate Breathing Space Pinot Gris
2013 Knappstein Hand Picked Reisling
2012 Saint Clair Estate Selection Sauvignon Blanc
750mL Bottle $1499 This first Pinot Gris produced by Evans & Tate in Margaret River has ripe Gris aromas of pear, lychee and gala apple, with a touch of tropical fruits. Time on fresh yeast lees and a touch of barrel ferment in French oak has added subtle aromas of fresh yeast and white bread. Then there’s the long, richly-flavoured palate with pears, lychee and apple, continuing on to a dry, refreshing finish.
750mL Bottle $1899 This wine has been shaped by a kind growing season, ideal picking conditions and careful winemaking. It displays an aromatic array of citrus fruits, including lime and grapefruit, with subtle floral highlights. The palate retains the generous citrus notes, balanced by elements of sweet spices. A crunchy, crisp acid profile brings it all together in a wine that’s fantastic to drink now, but will also repay cellaring for five to eight years.
750mL Bottle $1699 The fruit for this wine was sourced from several vineyards throughout New Zealand’s Marlborough region and cool fermented to retain freshness and zing. The intense aromas of black currant and passionfruit, with a hint of gooseberry, are reflected on the palate. A pleasant herbaceous thread leads to a long, lingering finish. This is a perfect wine for drinking immediately and will be at its best over the next two years.
autumn issue 2014.
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supplier feature
the history of the burge family and their long association with winemaking in barossa can be traced back to march 1855, when noted tailor john burge immigrated to australia from hillcot, in wiltshire, england with his wife eliza and their two sons. john worked as a winemaker at hillside vineyards, and his love of viticulture was passed onto his son meshach, who continued the tradition making his first wine in 1865, whilst becoming a prominent community leader.
Meshach married Emma in 1883 and they had eight children. First-born Percival established the Wilsford Winery near Lyndoch in 1928. Percival had two sons, Noel and Colin, and Colin and his wife Nancy had one son, Grant. Colin’s son spent his boyhood immersed in the wine industry, watching his father and grandfather build respected wine businesses and learning traditional winemaking techniques. Today, Grant Burge is a fifth-generation Barossa vigneron and winemaker who has–throughout his career–been one of the most respected and innovative forces in the Australian wine industry. Over the years, the techniques Grant learned in his early years have served him well in his winemaking endeavours, as it is his firm belief that to be a great winemaker you need to understand the relationship between the vineyard and wine, and that this knowledge
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can only come from hours spent among the vines, cultivating the soil and carefully managing precious water resources. When he and wife Helen founded Grant Burge Wines in 1988, it was agreed that the business would be based on the traditional values of family, heritage and quality. However, these traditional foundations have not hindered Grant Burge Wines development into one of the most innovative companies in the Australian wine industry, with cutting edge winemaking techniques producing wines of exceptional quality and consistency. In support of his winemaking expertise, Grant owns a network of vineyards across the Barossa and Eden Valley, providing him with unmatched access to premium quality grapes. This network includes the famous Filsell Vineyard, which was planted in the 1920s. Located between the townships of Lyndoch and Williamstown, this venerable old vineyard
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produces fruit of incredible concentration and flavour which forms the base of Grant’s iconic Meshach Shiraz, classified as “Outstanding” in the Langton’s Classification, giving it recognition as one of Australia’s great wines. Continuing the family tradition, Grant and Helen have now brought the sixth generation into the fold. Eldest son Toby is the company’s Vineyard Technical Officer, upholding the premium quality and consistency of fruit produced from the vineyards. Daughter Amelia joined the marketing department in an assistant role early in 2007, and in late 2008 went out into the world to gain more experience to bring back to the company later on in her career. Trent, the youngest has been part of the hardworking cellar and vineyard teams and is now gaining experience in winery operations, grower liaison and promotion. All three children share Grant and Helen’s vision to continue this long family tradition of bringing exceptional wines to the world.
vineyard range the grant burge vineyard range has an established brand identity and renowned, reputation for quality and reliability. ultra premium fruit is sourced from individual, historic vineyards in the barossa valley, adelaide hills and eden valley, all showcasing the unique varietal characters of these special terroirs and microclimates.
miamba shiraz 750mL Bottle $1999 This outstanding Barossa wine has vibrant aromas and flavours of dark fruits, blueberries, mocha and savoury spices. With a proportion of the wine fermented in European oak barrels, the style and structure has evolved to become more refined with fine, silky tannins and a long, elegant finish. Food Match: Peppercorn steak or barbecued meats.
summers chardonnay 750mL Bottle $1999 An elegant wine displaying all of the classic traits of cool climate Chardonnay; bright gold, with delicate aromas of citrus, white peaches and spice and fruit flavours integrated with lime acidity and a hint of creaminess. The supreme balance of this wine creates superb length of flavour and refinement. Food Match: Roasted pork loin, char-grilled chicken and creamy fish dishes.
autumn issue 2014.
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winemaker feature
His Passionate Career for many of us, profession and passion do not always correlate, and being able to earn a living from doing that thing which you love is a somewhat rare experience. it is one usually reserved for famous sports people or entertainers, but occasionally becomes a reality for the rest of us. usually, you need to be able to match your obsession with unusually rare talent. according to barossa valley wine-maker craig stansborough, this was not the case when, as a young man, he fantasized about his life as an afl player. “i should have being playing professionally but for a few simple things,” he says jokingly, “like being too slow, too short and having an overall lack of ability!”
Luckily for Craig, his true passion lay not in the heady atmosphere of the sports arena, but in the rolling plains of the bountiful Barossa Valley, where he had grown up. Interestingly for a local boy, he was the first in his family to be involved in the wine industry. But in 1983, at his first job as a cellar-hand at the historic Seppeltsfield Winery, he found his calling. “After tasting DP90 (Seppelt’s famous Tawny) under the old date palms at ten thirty in the morning on my first day, I suddenly found some direction in my life,” says Craig, “and I feel very lucky to have ended up spending near on 30 years in this industry. I am part of making a product that people can share and discuss–and if you like, turn it into a great passion. I do get excited when people want to talk to me about the wine we make, or any wine really.” Ten years later, Craig joined Grant Burge Wines as Cellar Manager, and such was his passion and skill that within four years, he was Senior Winemaker. His contribution over the last three decades to some of that label’s–and Australia’s–finest wines is acknowledged at the winery that has defined his career. It’s expressed through the wines that define Grant Burge: Meshach, Shadrach, Filsell and The Holy Trinity.
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Of course, Craig is the first to acknowledge the influence of Grant Burge himself. “Grant has been my main influence,” says Craig. “He has taught me the importance of attention to detail and the importance of good planning. It might seem like boring stuff but I believe in karma! He has also taught me some pretty cool winemaking stuff, but in the end as a winemaker I think you are your own person.” Craig travels extensively in his role at Grant Burge and, as such, is a passionate ambassador for the Barossa. “I think most wine regions have something special about them, but when you come to the Barossa you do get a sense of a long history of grape growing and winemaking,” he says. “I love the fact that I can walk into a vineyard which was planted 100 years ago, and meet a grower who can talk to me intimately about the vineyard that his dad or grandpa planted.” As a vineyard owner himself, Craig has an in depth knowledge of the factors that contribute to the unique nature of any particular region, and particularly Barossa Valley. “What makes the wines different is all related to mother nature, soil and climate. We are pretty lucky here, we don’t seem to get a lot of disease and we don’t have trouble getting ripeness, so the wines are generous and great to drink.”
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Extensive travel has also allowed Craig to sample wines from many local and international regions, and an exceptional palate has put him in a position to be highly sought after as a judge around the country. He has served as Associate Judge at the Barossa Wine Show and the National Wine Show in Canberra, and sat on tasting panels for Winestate Magazine and the Australian Wine Research Institute. When asked which regions outside the Barossa most impress him at the moment, Craig nominates Tasmanian wines. “Apart from being a beautiful part of the world, there are many areas down there that grow great fruit, and many areas that have not been planted that will grow great fruit,” he says. “And outside Australia, I enjoy the wines of Spain. I was lucky enough to spend some time there last year. I really enjoyed the Tempranillo from Rioja and Ribera de Duero, and the Grenache from Priorat. The people are great and have a similar sense of humour to us Aussies.” Apart from being the driving force behind Grant Burge, Craig has been keeping himself busy with his own vineyard, which he purchased around 15 years ago. “In the late 90s, I was searching around for that piece of perfect dirt I could plant up, and in
“ I am part of making a product that people can share and discuss... I do get excited when people want to talk to me about the wine we make, or any wine really.”
2000 I found a fantastic 52 acre piece of land in the Southern Barossa, not far from the Whispering Wall reservoir. I proceeded to plant some Shiraz, and have recently planted a few acres of Montepulciano and v for something different,” he says. “As many would know, it has not made me a lot of money, but I do get a kick out of growing some really smart fruit.” Perhaps Craig is being a little modest. Around six years ago, he and good mate Mark Slade set up Purple Hands Wines to market the spoils of the vineyard’s harvest, and they’re making waves with what are being described by none other than wine guru James Halliday as ‘single vineyard wines of remarkable elegance’. It will be interesting to see how Purple Hands develops, given this type of glowing endorsement. But one can be sure it’s in good hands, as is Grant Burge. Craig predicts that the trend will move toward wines that have less oak and less alcohol, with consumers not so fixated about colour, but concentrating on texture. Whatever it is, we can be sure that he will be at the forefront, thankful that his passion has become his career, AFL dreams notwithstanding.
autumn issue 2014.
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supplier feature
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it was the slogan to launch a winemaking legacy. yet it harks back to a time when penfolds wine was more likely to be consumed by a patient with anaemia than by a bon vivant. dr christopher rawson penfold was a britishtrained medical practitioner who emigrated to south australia in 1844 with a carefully selected stock of french vine cuttings. the wines that he and his wife mary began producing on their magill estate in adelaide were initially prescribed as a tonic.
BIN 9 Cab Sauv 750mL Bottle $3399 BIN 8 Cab Shiraz 750mL Bottle $3999
This year marks the 170th anniversary of Penfolds, and wines bearing the famous label have been enjoyed by many generations of perfectly healthy Australians. They’ve also made a big impression overseas. In 1995, Robert Parker, the world’s most influential wine critic, wrote in his self-published newsletter The Wine Advocate that Penfolds’ famous Grange was “a leading candidate for the richest, most concentrated dry table wine on planet earth.” Grange (originally Grange Hermitage) was a “secret bottling” back in 1951. It was an example of Penfolds’ spirit of experimentation and innovation. For 170 years, Penfolds has cultivated a reputation on winemaking excellence, achieved through a unique alchemy of distinguished vineyards and viticultural caretakers, exceptional winemaking resources and a rich history of outstanding winemakers. These master craftsmen and women have been the custodians of the Penfolds stable. And while tradition is important, Penfolds doesn’t stand still. The recently released Bin Series, for example, includes a new wine, designated as Bin 9. The Bin Series is at the heart of Penfolds and takes inspiration from legendary winemaker Max Schubert’s Bin 1, which became Grange. Bin 9 Cabernet Sauvignon has been crafted by the Penfolds winemaking team using grapes from vineyards across South Australia with a significant portion sourced from the ancient soils of McLaren Vale. The first vintage was made at Penfolds’ Nuriootpa winery in 2012.
It’s taken passion, commitment, courage and patience to create the Penfolds winemaking legacy “It was an interesting year for winemaking,” says Peter Gago, Penfolds’ Chief Winemaker. “We had less winter rain than usual in most parts of South Australia and the summer was mild, with a few short bursts of heat. Because of the mild daytime temperatures and cool evenings during the ripening period, we saw impressive flavour development and the fruit was picked in optimal conditions.” The result is a contemporary style of Cabernet that’s good drinking now but, in the tradition of the Bin wines, will become more complex with bottle age. Peter describes the wine as having aromas of blackcurrant, green olive and roasted red peppers, with mixed spice, cedar and rosewood notes from the oak hogsheads. He sees roasted meats and spicy chorizo on the palate, with a savoury tannin profile. Another contemporary red in the Bin Series, the 2011 Bin 8 Cabernet Shiraz, is described by Peter as “one to watch”. He believes it may give the previous year’s Bin 8 “a bit of competition”. The Bin 8 series was introduced in response to an interest in Cabernet Shiraz styles. This classic Australian wine style has, Penfolds say, caught the attention of the international wine media. There’s a story behind the Bin 8
name. Although Bin numbers were originally named after the original binning location after bottling, this wine was given its number because it’s matured in older oak previously used for Bin 128, Bin 28 and Bin 389. The number 8 provides the common thread – and, fortuitously, it’s seen by many as a particularly lucky number. Here’s how Peter Gago describes the nose of the 2011 Bin 8: “It’s an instantly recognisable Cabernet Shiraz aromatic propulsion, with Cabernet notes more prominent than Shiraz at this stage, i.e. black olive, graphite and red-berried fruits. It’s not quite that simple, however, with anchovy, crackling and meat salt Shiraz complexities lurking in the background. Oh, and a modicum of musk to add further intrigue.” The palate, he says, is “verging toward a good, old-fashioned summer trifle treat”. It’s taken passion, commitment, courage and patience to create the Penfolds winemaking legacy. Over time, what began as innovations have become the great traditions for new generations. Today, 170 years from its initial declaration, that legacy continues and the house remains one of Australia’s most revered … now and ‘evermore’.
autumn issue 2014.
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store profile
Bungendore cellars michael and sharron blore have been at the helm of bungendore cellars for the last 14 years. sharron is a local girl–born and bred in bungendore–who was previously involved in hospitality, having worked in a number of establishments, the most notable being bungendore’s well-known carrington. michael has embedded himself in the local community since marrying sharron 20 years ago. originally from western new south wales, the former cattle farmer now proudly calls bungendore home.
what do you love most
what do they
about your job?
typically buy?
We both enjoy talking to our customers. Being a small community we tend to know most of our customers, so interaction with them seems important. Questions like “how was your day” or “how did the kids enjoy the first day of school” are commonplace here.
what’s your favourite end of week autumn beverage? We are both venturing into the world of pinots right now. Really enjoying Waipara Way Pinot.
what is the question you get asked most by customers? Primarily, customers know what they are looking for as far as beers or spirits go. They do ask our advice on wines however, and mostly about food and wine matching.
“Being a small community we tend to know most of our customers...”
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who are some of your regulars? We have an eclectic range of customers. Bungendore is quite diverse, with rural workers and tradies, defence and military personnel, arty types, musos and affluent retirees all living in the community. Of course we also get the Canberra folks that come through on weekend drives, or on their way to the coast.
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It’s hard to say that one product stands out. We sell an even spread of beer, wine and ciders. We sell a lot more wine than most country outlets, which tend to sell mostly beers and RTDs. Many of our customers appreciate a premium wine, and we try to cater to that.
when is the busiest time in your store? The busiest times would be Thursday & Friday evenings, although the weekends tend to hum along as well.
what is the most unusual request you’ve ever had? Not really unusual requests, more “out of the square” requests, like rum from the Hoochery distillery in Kununurra, Western Australia.
what was the first job you ever had? Michael: “My first job was as a trainee stock & station agent in Alice Springs.” Sharron: “I was a geology field assistant at Woodlawn Mines.”
Winemaker Chris Hancock has been immersed in wine for the Oatley family over three decades. He agrees with his long time friend, mentor and Four-in-Hand driver Bob Oatley, that, above all, wine must be a ‘good drink’. As with a master coachman, Chris has honed his winemaking skills with years of experience. Wines such as this superb Shiraz require a thorough knowledge of every detail and constant practice to perfect. In addition, much patience and perseverance is required. Steely courage to reject all but the finest fruit. Steady hands to guide the winemaking team. A light touch to let the characteristics of both fruit and terroir speak for themselves. And finally, the patience and perseverance to let the wines mature and develop. Winemaker’s Tasting Note: Having set out to make a mid-weight style of Shiraz that shows definitive regional typicity, we’re very pleased with the result. With moderate alcohol and very supple oak influence, Barossa dark fruits and black chocolate characters rise to the forer, it’s generous and appealing, with soft, fine powdery tannins and lovely length of flavour. Enjoyable immediately upon release and will cellar comfortably for 5-7 years.
supplier feature
how an english aristocrat gave his name to the world’s oldest rum
barbados, in the caribbean, has a multicultural past. it was discovered and named by the portuguese. they called it barbados (meaning “bearded ones”) because of the lush, “bearded” trees that covered the island. but they didn’t stay. in 1627, the island was first settled by the english and quickly became the largest english settlement in the new world. it took the dutch, though, to introduce the crop that transformed the island’s society and economy.
Dutch traders brought sugar cane from Brazil in 1640, and the island’s rich soil and favourable wet season proved ideal for its cultivation. Soon Barbados was divided into large plantation estates, with owners who had connections with the English aristocracy. A byproduct of their lucrative sugar industry was another vital commodity – rum. According to local historians, rum was being made on the site of what is now the Mount Gay distillery early as 1667. However, the earliest written evidence of rum production at what was then known as Mount Gilboa is a legal document dated 20th February 1703. It lists the property and the equipment found on it, including: “Two stone windmills... one boiling house with seven coppers, one curing house and one still house.” This makes Mount Gay Rum the oldest in Barbados and, even more significantly, the world. Enter our baronet. John Gay Alleyne was born in Barbados, a descendent of the first settlers. He served in the Barbados Parliament and
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was for many years Speaker in the House of Assembly. As a reward for his service, he was created Baronet of Four Hills in the Island of Barbados. Sir John’s day job, however, was making rum on the Mount Gilboa plantation. The owner, a gentleman with the wildly inappropriate name of John Sober, appointed him as manager of the plantation and distillery in 1747. So successful was the business under Alleyne’s management that, upon his death in 1801, the grateful Sober family added his middle name to their label and the Mount Gay brand was born. Mount Gay Rum is the product of over 300 years of knowledge, experience and refinement applied to the process of making rum. The island of Barbados provides the perfect raw ingredients. Water is drawn from the coral-filtered groundwater deep beneath the island, then filtered three times for additional purity. Then there’s the molasses. Barbadian sugar is among the finest in the
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world, yielding exceptional molasses. By the 18th century, Barbadian molasses was known as “Black Gold” because of the additional revenue it provided after the process of refining crystallised sugar from sugar cane. The molasses and coral filtered water are combined with Mount Gay Rum’s proprietary strain of yeast. After distilling in traditional double copper pot stills the rum is matured in charred white oak barrels. These days, through an agreement with the makers of Jim Beam, these are barrels which previously held American whiskey. At Mount Gay, blending has become a true craft. Master blender Allen Smith holds sway over the craft of blending, and an individual batch of Mount Gay Rum contains dozens of different distillates. Today, the distinctive red and yellow Mount Gay signs are everywhere on Barbados and Mount Gay Rums are enjoyed around the world. It’s a testament to the work of an 18th century baronet and a happy decision by a man named Sober.
Mount Gay Rum is the product of over 300 years of knowledge, experience and refinement mount gay eclipse 700mL Bottle $3799 This full bodied rum brings floral and fruity notes of apricot, banana and vanilla on the nose before a palate of subtle smokiness from ageing in toasted Kentucky oak barrels, it offers a warm, medium body with a bright finish. Try with fresh lime and cola or with a timeless rum runner.
mount gay silver 700mL Bottle $3799 The perfect base for a refreshing Mojito, this clean and aromatic rum offers a balanced, mellow harmony of sugar cane syrup and banana, infused with notes of peppermint and citrus.
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region feature
the story of the hunter valley is the story of the australian wine industry. without taking away anything from the great regions of south australia such as barossa and coonawarra, and the number of quality regions around the country, hunter valley’s status perhaps slightly edges those of the others, and for two reasons. firstly, the hunter is australia’s oldest wine country. and secondly, its cultivation of the semillon grape has put it on the world map as the primary exponent of this particular variety.
The beginnings of wine production in the Hunter–and indeed Australia–are credited to James Busby, widely considered the founder of the Australian wine industry. In 1828, he returned from Europe with clippings from French, Spanish and English vineyards, and proceeded to plant them in his property, Kirkton. While Busby moved to New Zealand ten years later, his vines prospered under the care of brother-in-law William Kelman. Other pioneers include George Wyndham, who planted vines at Dalwood in 1830 (possibly from Busby’s clippings) and James King who made his first wine in 1835 from vines planted in 1832. By 1843, Dr Henry Lindeman had planted his first vines, and by the 1860s, he and Wyndham had established an agency in Sydney for the sale of their wines. By the turn of the century, a number of factors came into play to put the brakes on the Hunter’s growth. Most of those early vineyards no longer exist, the earliest vineyard now being Steven’s Old Patch, which dates to 1867. The bank crash of the 1890s and federation combined to affect a drop in wine production. The former for the financing difficulties and the expected drop in demand, and the latter because the lifting of customs duties between states in the new commonwealth resulted in cheaper product flowing in from South Australia. The First World War, an outbreak of the vine disease downy mildew and the Great Depression added to the woes of the region; and wine production declined substantially, before experiencing substantial growth again from the late 60s onward.
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Paradoxically, it was during these leaner years that one of the first nationally recognised wine labels appeared, heralding the start of the Semillon grape’s hegemony in the Hunter. A Sydney winemaker and merchant by the name of Leo Buring took advantage of the tough times and purchased substantial stock from a then ailing Lindemans. Under the name Leo Buring Rinegolde, Hunter Valley Semillon became one of the most popular wines in the country, and ultimately led to the development of this purely Australian style. For whatever reason, and a little perplexing considering the early preference for sweeter fortified wines rather than dry whites, Hunter Valley winemakers like Buring chose to treat it differently than the French, misleadingly marketing it as Riesling. Nonetheless over the years, winemakers Lindemans (having fully recovered and in a twist of fate, purchased Leo Buring’s winery after his death), Tulloch, McWilliam’s and Tyrrell’s dropped any reference to the term Riesling in favour of the correct name, consequently cultivating a wine considered unique to Australia. While Chardonnay–amongst the original clippings planted by James Busby–is the most prolific of grapes grown in Australia, and Aussie Shiraz has created such a stir over the last few decades that even overseas labels are now changing their names from the traditional ‘Syrah’, they remain grapes that do what is expected of them. The Hunter Valley Semillon on the other hand, has redefined and reinvented itself to the point that it stands alone as a style, worthy of emulation across the world.
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One of only three grape varieties approved for the Bordeaux region, this grape has been traditionally used in France to make the sweeter Sauternes, blended with Muscadelle and Sauvignon Blanc; and rarely do the French use it on its own as a dry table wine. In the Hunter’s warm climate, Semillon is picked much earlier than its French counterpart, resulting in a wine of low alcohol, buttercup-yellow in colour, that is crisp with abundant aromas of lemon and lime, a long finish and soft acid. Hunter Valley Semillon is more often a dry wine, developing burnt toast, vanilla and honey flavours as it ages, giving it depth and richness. It can mature for two decades, but is considered best at around eight to ten years. Although Semillon is the grape that has put the Hunter Valley on the world stage, there is much diversity in the wine plantings of the region. Today, styles and varieties include the aforementioned Chardonnay and Shiraz, along with Verdelho, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Some of the grandest names in Australian wine make the Hunter their home, along with newer labels that are consolidating their place alongside them. Many offer cellar door services as well as sophisticated dining and tourism experiences that befit the Hunter’s status as a great wine region. It’s come a long way from those pioneering years, and also from the tougher times that the region experienced in the interim, but ultimately, it’s impossible to speak of Aussie wines without acknowledging the contributions of the Hunter Valley.
Valley of the Lost Vines it may not be immediately apparent to the casual observer, but hunter valley is not only home to australia’s oldest vineyards, it is also the natural heir to thousands of years of european wine cultivation.
Almost one hundred and fifty years ago–and around forty years after the first vines were planted in the Hunter with pure and ancient clippings–a great calamity befell the wine growing regions of Europe. A little insect with an insatiable appetite for vine roots made its way from the New World to the Old, and in doing so, wreaked havoc on vineyards across the continent. The culprit was Phylloxera, an almost microscopic insect that perforates the root of vines it feeds on, infecting them with a poisonous secretion, thereby killing the plants, and no doubt giving Europeans one more reason to look upon Americans with disdain. Within a few decades, over two thirds of Europe’s vines had been destroyed, and wine production was reduced by around 90 percent. A number of methods, some more successful than others–including but not limited to the burying of live toads in the soil to ‘take up the poison’ had been put into place to save what was left. Ultimately, the practice of grafting rootstock from the more resilient native American vines became the most common defence for
this affliction. It remains so today, thankfully ensuring the wellbeing of countless millions of toads, but ultimately casting a shadow on the ‘Europeanness’ of the modern vines. How Europe saved its wine industry is perhaps a story for another time, but ironically, this catastrophic event made the vines of Australia–a land hardly rating a mention for wine production at the time–among the oldest in the world. Like some kind of Steve Bradbury of wine production, vineyards in some of Australia’s most productive wine areas skated freely past the fallen to score highly in the pedigree stakes. Eventually Phylloxera also arrived in Australia, but the soils of many of the local wine growing regions of this somewhat inhospitable land were deemed an unsuitable habitat by this discerning insect, and therefore survived the devastation. Among them, of course, was the Hunter Valley. Consequently, the first vines of this region carry an unbroken lineage, sole descendants of ancient French and Spanish vines no longer in existence.
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supplier feature
Mount Pleasant In the steps of giants jim chatto is a man with a lot to live up to. last year, he took over as chief winemaker at the mount pleasant winery in the lower hunter. he’s just the fourth person to hold this position in the winery’s 93-year history and he’s walking in the shoes of some legendary figures.
The first of those is Maurice O’Shea. In 1921 O’Shea was just 24 years old. The son of an Irish father and a French mother, he had already spent seven years in France completing studies in viticulture and oenology. Returning to Australia, he persuaded his widowed mother to buy the Hunter Valley property that he named Mount Pleasant. The Hunter is often called the cradle of the Australian wine industry. Vines were first planted there in around 1823. From these beginnings, the Hunter Valley flourished, with several families establishing vineyards in the area. Today, it’s certainly one of Australia’s most well-known wine regions, producing many fine, internationally-recognised wines. In the Pokolbin area of the Hunter, nestled beneath the Brokenback Range, Maurice O’Shea planted vineyards that have become familiar names to wine-lovers: first Old Paddock then, in later years, Rosehill and Lovedale. These great vineyards continue to produce some of the best fruit in the country, forming the basis of some of Mount Pleasant’s most iconic wines, including the Lovedale Semillon and Rosehill Shiraz. The first wines were made by the light of a gas lantern – the luxury of electricity was still some years away. Maurice O’Shea’s blending techniques and sophisticated use of oak – skills he’d honed in his time in France – were credited with
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producing red table wines of enormous flavour, intensity and longevity. The McWilliam family, led by Keith McWilliam, recognised the talent and potential of this great winemaker. In 1932 they joined forces with Maurice O’Shea by purchasing 50 per cent of the winery, acquiring the remaining share in 1941. O’Shea continued as wine-maker and, more than half a century later, his wines from the 1940s and early 1950s continue to display the character for which their maker was renowned. Maurice died in 1956 but his ground-breaking work was kept alive by revered winemakers Brian Walsh (1956-1978) and Phil Ryan (19782012). The winery is today one of the most awarded in Australia, having been awarded an incredible five Championships, 128 trophies, 500 gold, 500 silver and 1104 bronze medals since the late 1970s. The 2000 vintage of Mount Pleasant Maurice O’Shea Shiraz outscored Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace to be the highestrated Shiraz in the 2005 edition of James Halliday’s Australian Wine Companion. In 2008, Mount Pleasant was named Australia’s Winery of the Year and in 2009 Chief Winemaker Phil Ryan was officially appointed a Living Legend of the Hunter Valley. With Ryan’s retirement, Jim Chatto takes up the mantle. “Mount Pleasant’s place in the story of Australian wine is significant,”
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Chatto says. “I’ve had the rare privilege of tasting some great O’Shea wines, so I’m aware of the gravitas the role carries and the enormous responsibility to honour the legacy of Maurice O’Shea and the individuality of each Mount Pleasant site.” Chatto joins McWilliam’s from Pepper Tree wines, where he had held the position of Chief Winemaker since 2007. During this time he was named 2009 Hunter Valley Winemaker of the Year, as well as being a 2010 Gourmet Traveller Winemaker of the Year finalist. With 20 vintages of Hunter Valley winemaking under his belt, Jim is also a senior wine show judge with over 14 years’ experience across both regional and capital city shows. He has been Chairman of Judges at the Hunter Valley Wine Show since 2012. More than 90 years on from Maurice O’Shea’s first vintages using basic tools and a simple basket press, the equipment has evolved and new faces have emerged. But the winemaking philosophy and the vineyards at Mount Pleasant remain the same. A passionate Hunter Valley advocate, Chatto says he is looking forward to working with the famous Mount Pleasant vineyards. “My philosophy will be to proudly make Hunter wines of longevity, purity and freshness, true to their region and true to their site,” he says.
Jim Chatto
Maurice O’shea
“Mount Pleasant’s place in the story of Australian wine is significant”
Elizabeth Semillon 750mL Bottle $1499 Philip Shiraz 750mL Bottle $1499 Elizabeth Aged Semillon 750mL Bottle $1899 autumn issue 2014.
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byo feature
ideas for boy’s night in as the last of the warm weather says goodbye, there is no cause for sadness because autumn brings the promise of that most cherished of male traditions: a cold beer with your mates while watching the footy! but inviting the lads around for an impromptu bonding session doesn’t mean that you are limited to the same old selection of blokey brews you may be accustomed to. the range of boutique style beers is growing every year, and this season, it may be a good idea to go for something a little more ‘fancy’. your mates won’t take the mickey. in fact, they will probably let out an extra cheer in honour of your fine taste.
matilda bay minimum chips golden lager
6pk $1699
Minimum Chips is the ideal autumn brew – a unique, seasonal-inspired golden lager. While many premium lagers are malt driven, Minimum Chips is differentiated by its distinctive hop bitterness and crisp, full taste. It’s an all-malt lager; using Centennial hops to produce floral/citrus hop aromas and flavours with a mild, malty palate. This beer lends itself to the great Australian tradition of enjoying fresh seafood with a refreshing cleanser to match (hence the reference to the classic fish & chip shop order). Minimum Chips is also ideal for any occasion as a versatile all-round beer with plenty packed in.
endeavour vintage beers The Endeavour Vintage Beer people will tell you they are “three blokes having a go, who love beer.” One of those blokes, Andy Stewart, is an experienced brewer who believes that –just like wines– Endeavour Vintage Beers reflect the growing seasons they’re made in. A tribute to Australian artisan hop and barley growers, they are high quality traditional ales using the finest ingredients, carefully selected from growing regions that experienced the best conditions in a given year. Both Endeavour True Vintage Pale Ale and Endeavour True Vintage Amber Ale demonstrate the Endeavour style – balanced, elegant and approachable with a superb long lasting finish. 4pk $1699
matso’s mango beer Matso’s, in Broome, is the Kimberley’s award winning microbrewery, and a true Western Australia treasure. The northwestern brewing maestros produce some of Australia’s premier craft beers, including Pearlers Pale Ale, Smokey Bishop Dark Lager and a Premium Ginger Beer. Their famous Mango Beer is based on a classic Belgium Blonde recipe. Using a 100% natural mango blend, the brewers have developed an easy-drinking beer style with amazing fruit aromas balanced out with sweet dryness. This great little beer has strong mango aromas with a light honey malt presence. It’s just as refreshing down south as in its tropical birthplace. 6pk $1999
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...or a girl’s night out okay ladies, we admit it. we’ve egged the boys on and probably ruined your friday night or saturday afternoon. but don’t hate on us. rather, treat it as an opportunity to get the girls together and have the night off in your favourite cheap n’ cheerful or that swanky new place you’ve been hearing about but haven’t had the chance to visit. let those boys of yours have their man-time, grab one of these fine drops from your nearest local liquor and make a night of it.
750mL Bottle $1999
2012 climbing pinot gris The dormant volcano Mount Canobolas dominates the landscapes around Orange and is the source of the rich soils that shape the character of Cumulus Estate wines. Sourced from the higher elevations of the estate, above 600m, this wine is a classic example of the Pinot Gris style. Following the aromas of fresh Granny Smith apples, pear honey and citrus comes a palate of well-weighted fruit and flavours of honey, apple, pear and orange peel. It’s a tightly structured wine with a crisp finish. Drink it now while it’s fresh and lively, to accompany seafood, light pasta dishes or cheese.
750mL Bottle $1999
moppity vineyards 2012 estate tumbarumba chardonnay A brilliant and pure expression of modern Australian Chardonnay, with a nod to the great wines of the Burgundy region. Sourced from Tumbarumba’s iconic Coppabella Vineyard, this wine points to Chardonnay’s future direction in Australia, with its poise, restraint and finely chiseled detail. Winner of two gold medals!
750mL Bottle $2199
2013 pike’s “traditionale” riesling This is the 29th release of this much loved Clare Valley Riesling. It makes a lovely drink as a crisp, young white wine – the perfect wine with oysters. However, it will easily improve in the bottle for six to 10 years or more if you like Riesling with a little bottle age. It’s The nose is fresh and bright, displaying layers of lemon/lime zest, tropical fruit and subtle nuances of mineral and wet slate, all of which are reflected in the palate. The flavours are tightly woven around a core of bright acidity providing length and drive to the soft, dry finish.
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new product spotlight
New Product Spotlight This is a gin that defies convention.
the quintessential taste of tennessee 4pk $2199 Jack Daniel knew a thing or two about quality and craftsmanship. And people all over the world have been enjoying the fruits of his labour since 1866. Now Double Jack delivers the authentic taste of Tennessee whiskey in a new combination, expertly mixing a double shot of classic Jack Daniel’s Old No.7 with just the right amount of cola. The extra shot makes it a bolder pre-mix, with an alcohol content of 6.9%. Let’s be honest – it’s probably more like the Jack and cola you’d mix at home, but in a convenient can that chills down fast. You’ll enjoy the distinctive aromas of Jack Daniel’s accented by sweet cola spice notes and, on the palate, the perfect mix of premium whiskey, toasted oak and sweet subtle notes of cinnamon and citrus. Double Jack finishes smooth with the timeless combination of everyone’s favourite cola and authentic Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey.
Double Jack delivers the authentic taste of Tennessee whiskey in a new combination
not your grandfather’s gin 700mL Bottle $3999 Bulldog Gin’s distinctive bottle, complete with spiked dog collar, tells you that this is a gin that defies convention. It was conceived with a new attitude and approach to the traditionally conservative world of super-premium gin. Bulldog is still made by the traditional copper pot method of London dry gin production, but the difference lies in the taste. Dubbed a “new-world-style gin” and named the “world’s most mixable gin” by Wine Enthusiast Magazine, it’s infused with twelve rare and distinctive botanicals from countries across the globe. They include lotus leaves, lavender and dragon eye (a cousin to the lychee and once thought of as an aphrodisiac). And if you think gin is just a summer drink, think again. True to its reputation as a good mixer, Bulldog goes down well in some special cold-weather cocktails. The website, bulldoggin.com has some tempting ideas, including the London Mule (equal parts Bulldog and Ginger Beer, garnished with lime) or the Prince Toddy (a mix that includes hot apple cider, honey, mint leaves and spices). Go on. We dare you.
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supplier feature
He was brewing ‘craft beer’ before anyone called it ‘craft beer’.
when thomas cooper made his first beer in adelaide in 1862, all beer was essentially ‘craft beer’. thomas did everything himself, purchasing the ingredients, brewing and bottling the beer at his norwood home, and delivering to his customers. at the same time, he ran a milking herd and dairy, with daily milk deliveries.
Thomas claimed that the quality of his beer set it apart from other colonial ales. “There are some half dozen breweries besides ours in and about Adelaide, but they all use a good deal of sugar and so on for brewing, but we use only malt and hops, consequently, ours being pure, the doctors recommend it to all their patients,” he wrote to his brother. Coopers Brewery has changed – it’s now the largest Australian-owned brewery with state-of-the art facilities. But some things have remained the same. Coopers is still in family hands and successive generations of the Cooper family have continued to grow the business by brewing fine ales, stouts and lagers in the natural, traditional way.
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There were plenty of family members to continue the tradition. Thomas fathered nineteen children during two marriages, although only nine of his children survived him. Dr Tim Cooper, the current Managing Director and Chief Brewer, is a fifth generation descendent from Thomas’s second marriage. “Dr Tim”, as he’s known in the company, is particularly proud of the premium beers that bear the name of the founder. Artisan Reserve Pilsner is the latest craft release in the brewery’s Thomas Cooper’s Selection of premium beers, joining the recently successful brand, Celebration Ale. “This beer lives up to the true meaning of ‘Artisan’,” he says. “It reflects the skill of our
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brewers. They’ve pushed the boundaries of the ancient art of beer-making to create an unpasteurised product with the freshest taste possible. Of course, we have decades of experience in producing naturally conditioned ales which means we give detailed attention to best practice in fermentation, maturation and pack.” As a pre-requisite to the craft credentials of the premium Thomas Cooper’s Selection, the brewing team carefully selected the purest and best ingredients available. To give the beer complexity of flavour it has a blend of four hop varieties. To create an authentic Pilsner, two of these are well-known German hop varieties, namely Hallertau Tradition and Hallertau Hersbrucker, both sourced from the famous
“We wrote the book on ales. Now we’ve added a chapter.” – Dr Tim Cooper
6pk $1799
hop growing region of Bavaria. And what are the other two? “We’re deliberately keeping that confidential,” says Tim. “We want to ensure the beer’s originality, and to stop others from imitating us. Let’s just say that these two ‘secret herbs and spices’ provide the support and balance for the German hop varieties to give the beer some pretty special citrusy and flowery hop characters.” A traditional Pilsner like this needs an extended process of cool fermentation and maturation to develop the clean crisp flavour. Coopers have used a specially selected Tuborg strain of lager yeast to carry out the fermentation, to develop less of the sulphur notes and more of the positive subtle ester
and fruit undertones. These flavours are further enhanced in maturation tanks where the yeast augments the conditioning of the beer.
impressions are of freshly cut citrus, lime and orange peel, followed by the crispy palate with balanced malt character.
Malted two-row spring barley is the only grist ingredient used for Artisan Reserve Pilsner. It is an unadulterated all-malt brew requiring no addition of liquid sugar or other adjuncts. Thomas Cooper would be proud.
Savour a glass or two and enjoy this new chapter in the Thomas Cooper’s Selection of premium beers. And celebrate the fact that a dedicated brewing family has kept the story alive.
An alcohol of 5.5% ranks this higher than most other lager beers of its type in the market, so it has the aroma and taste of a fuller strength beer. A higher level of bitterness balances the alcohol and the malty residual sweetness. It is bright, clear, golden yellow in colour with an appetising soft and creamy head. First
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supplier feature
The Apple Thief the name 'the apple thief' is an apple grower's inside joke - the finest apples sit at the top of the trees and the birds, able to smell this fertile fruit from miles away, swoop down and try to steal the best apples from the growers. the quirky name inspired the beautiful packaging: a black 330ml bottle, designed to protect the integrity of the fruit enabling the apple thief to stand out in a crowded cider market. all 3 variants are also available in 50 litre kegs.
The Apple Thief Cider is a locally produced, premium boutique craft cider originating from Batlow, NSW at the base of the Snowy Mountains. The Apple Thief focuses on showcasing the quality Batlow apples and pears with their single varietal flavours - Pink Lady, Granny Smith and William Pear ciders.
The Apple Thief ciders are very versatile and suit many different occasions, from a refreshing drink on a hot summer’s day or warmed up with cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves on a cold winter’s night. The natural and fresh characteristics make them ideal to pair with beautiful food.
The owner and brewer, Dave Purcell, was predestined to a career involved with apples and pears. Dave grew up on the Batlow farm that has been part of his family for three generations. Dave was looking for ways to diversify the family business when in 2009, he started juicing apples that were being refused by supermarkets due to superficial blemishes. His opinion was that, regardless their blemishes, they were so sweet and juicy they deserved to be given a chance–in the form of a chilled cider.
The Apple Thief Pink Lady matches beautifully with a slow-roasted pork, whilst the Granny Smith is ideally paired with fresh King Prawns. The William Pear is a sensational fit with a cheese platter to finish off a beautiful meal.
What initially started as a passionate hobby for Dave soon turned into a business opportunity, as his friends and family were amazed with his initial ‘trial’ batches. Ever the entrepreneur, Dave could see the space within the burgeoning Australian cider market where The Apple Thief Cider could make its name.
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Delicious, all natural and created from freshly crushed Batlow apples and pears, The Apple Thief is a cider worth stealing a taste of. Refreshing in its deliciousness and purity, it should be the pick of discerning drinkers in selected restaurants, bars and bottle shops across Australia.
The natural and fresh characteristics make them ideal to pair with beautiful food.
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4pk $1399
The Apple Thief Pink Lady Cider – a deliciously sweet sensation with a clean medium sweet finish ... The Apple Thief Granny Smith Cider – a tantalizing tart flavor with a crisp medium dry finish ... The Apple Thief William Pear Cider – a refreshingly fruity taste with a medium sweet finish
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supplier feature
Tapas and tempranillo: the true tastes of Spain tasty bite sized morsels of tapas, shared plates and a relaxed approach to eating. this is how we in australia view spanish food. the relaxed approach is a mirror to our aussie lifestyle; so it’s not surprising that we’ve seen an explosion of spanish and spanish-influenced restaurants, cook books and television shows over the last few years.
Elefante Blanco 750mL Bottle $1399 Elefante Tempranillo Shiraz 750mL Bottle $1399 La Senda Elefante Tempranillo 750mL Bottle $1699
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There are a few stories explaining the origin of tapas but the most common is that while on a long trip, King Alfonso had stopped to rest and he ordered a glass of jerez (sherry). There was a gusty wind, so the in-keeper served him his glass of sherry covered by a slice of jamon to prevent the dirt entering the glass. King Alfonso apparently liked it and when he asked for a second glass, he requested another tapa or “cover” just like the first.
Javier Murua makes such wines. His family, based in Rioja, have been making wine for over 200 years. The Elefante wines are sourced from Castilla la Mancha, the setting of Miguel de Cervantes’ novel Don Quixote. This is the spiritual heart of Spain, with rugged plains dotted with windmills, olive groves and historic cities. Manchego cheese and full-bodied wines highlight the region’s famed cuisine.
Regardless, as we’ve embraced the delicious simplicity of tapas we’ve also come to appreciate the wines that best suit this style of food. Whites that are full flavoured, vibrant and without any oak so they match a wide range of food. Reds based on the famous Tempranillo, generous but medium-bodied to allow for easy drinking at lunch or dinner (or anytime in between!).
The range of Elefante wines have become, in just three years, the top selling Spanish table wines in this country. They’ve been embraced by the wine drinking public because of their bold labels, point of difference and fantastic value for money. Wine critics too have heaped praise on Javier’s Elefante wines.
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The wines may have Spanish grape varieties you haven’t previously heard of but, much like Spanish food in this country, it all comes down to what it tastes like and at these prices you can afford to find out for yourself.
The range of Elefante wines have become, in just three years, the top selling Spanish table wines in this country.
Some simple tapas dishes to share and enjoy • A classic cold plate of jamon (different types available), olives, manchego cheese and crusty bread. Quince paste optional. The Spanish are kings of smoked and cured meat products (although the Italians might argue!) • Patatas Bravas are cheap and cheerful. Bite ized pieces of potato are roasted, sautéed or deep fried then spiked with some chilli (the reason for brava) and served with a thick tomato sauce cooked with bay leaves and onion. There’s usually some garlicky aioli (garlic flavoured mayonnaise) on the side too. • Gambas (prawns) can be done many ways. In a small, shallow earthenware pot filled with sizzling olive oil, garlic and chilli;
or flash fried with lemon, chilli and parsley. Of course, feel free to just pop a few on the barbecue! • Smoky chicken skewers. Thigh fillets of chicken marinated in olive oil, sweet smoked paprika (pimenton), crushed fennel seeds, ground cumin, and garlic. Add a small amount of red wine vinegar a few minutes before cooking and serve with a wedge of lime or garlicky aioli. • Meatballs, usually pork or pork and beef and deliberately made small so they’re easier to fit in your mouth in one go! Braised in a light tomato sauce that could contain soft herbs such as parsley and coriander, fragrant saffron and sometimes a few almonds for crunch.
autumn issue 2014.
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contact details
Store Locations all products can be found at the following participating stores
Local Liquor Ainslie
7 Edgar Street
Ainslie
6230 6622
Berowra Village Tavern
1 Turner Road
Berowra Heights
9456 2660
Bowral Hotel
412 Bong Bong Street
Bowral
4862 2646
Sydney Cellars Broadway
227 Broadway Road
Broadway
9660 9996
Local Liquor Bungendore
1/15 Gilbraltar Street
Bungendore
6238 1735
Denman Cellars
Shop 1-3, 68 Halley Street
Chisolm
6292 5713
Coffs Harbour Hotel
135 West High Street
Coffs Harbour
6651 4257
Pier Hotel Coffs Harbour
365 Harbour Drive
Coffs Harbour
6652 2110
Local Liquor Conder (Corks Lanyon)
Norman Lindsay Street
Conder
6284 7000
Coonamble Cellars
83 Aberford Street
Coonamble
6822 1756
Bottlo'briens cronulla
38 Cronulla Street
Cronulla
9523 4037
Local Liquor Curtin (Statesman Hotel)
Cnr Strangways & Theordore Streets
Curtin
6281 1777
Dulwich Hill Cellars
572 Marrickville Road
Dulwich Hill
9560 2946
Local Liquor Griffith (Shop-Rite)
2 Barker Street
Griffith
6295 0781
Local Liquor Gungahlin
Ernest Cavanagh Crescent
Gungahlin
6253 9000
Islington Cellars
110 Maitland Road
Islington
4969 4772
Local Liquor Lyneham (IGA)
Wattle Street
Lyneham
6249 7263
Nambucca River Co-Op Bottle Shop
17 Cooper Street
Macksville
6568 1163
Argyle Tavern
205 River St
Maclean
6645 4134
Bottle Plus Malabar
3/1215 Anzac Parade
Malabar
9661 4184
Mosman Cellars
154 Spit Road
Mosman
9969 4368
Commodore Hotel North Sydney
206 Blues Point Road
North Sydney
9922 5098
Pitt Town Bottleshop
1A Eldon Street
Pitt Town
4580 9007
Local Liquor Thirlmere
5/83-85 Westbourne Avenue
Thirlmere
4681 8027
Ryans Hotel Thirroul
138 Phillip Street
Thirroul
4267 1086
C'ellar Vie Turramurra
8 Princes Street
Turramurra
9449 8550
Urunga Cellars
16 Bonville Street
Urunga
6655 6012
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32
sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
FOUNDER’S NOTE
NNER L A HY WI T R O P 13 N AT I O N A R 0 R 2 E E B H CAN AT T W O SH WINE
With over forty years of winemaking experience I’ve learnt there are two important elements when it comes to creating great wine. Firstly, the best wines show a true sense of the land – that ideal combination of grape variety and region. Secondly, they taste even better when shared with friends. I hope you enjoy drinking these wines as much as we enjoyed making them. ROBERT OATLEY, FOUNDER ROBERT OATLEY SIGNATURE SERIES
The Robert Oatley Signature Series draws on a remarkable portfolio of vineyards nurtured by the winemaking talent of Larry Cherubino showcasing Australia’s most successful wine styles and regions. Bob Oatley’s mantra is that all wines should be a “darned good drink”, and the high quality Signature Series delivers immediate appeal, with satisfying flavours over an elegant frame. Each wine embodies the grape varietal and region in which it was grown.
GREAT SOUTHERN RIESLING 2013 REGION NOTES: GREAT SOUTHERN WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Recognised by many as Australia’s newest high-quality Riesling region, the Great Southern encompasses a spectrum of sub-districts that are delivering remarkably delicious and often age-worthy wines of tremendous success. WINEMAKING NOTES
We selected a number of individual parcels of free-run juice from Porongorup, Frankland River and Mount Barker, fermented them with neutral yeast to retain the inherent fruit characters, and used minimal additions to produce a varietally pure, excellent early to mid-term drinking wine. Enjoy now to 2018.
ALSO AVAILABLE YARRA VALLEY PINOT NOIR
MARGARET RIVER CHARDONNAY
MARGARET RIVER CABERNET SAUVIGNON Gold Medal at the 2013 National Wine Show Canberra
McLAREN VALE SHIRAZ
MARGARET RIVER SAUVIGNON BLANC
LONDON DRY GIN
The TANQUERAY and TONIGHT WE TANQUERAY words and associated logos are trade marks. Š Charles Tanqueray & Co. 2014.