Crème De Cornell Fall 2014
fall 2014Spring 2014
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CRèME de CORNELL an independent student publication EDITOR IN CHIEf victoria sadosky MANAGING EDITOR neha ratna EDITORS natasha armbrust, annalise carroll, amanda coate,
paola duarte, catherine hillin, emily jones, sohyun sarah lee, jennie malina, natasha wolman
TREaSURER paula cai SECRETARY julia ridley MARKETING CHAIRS haswiny deva, jess wu PHOTOgraPHERS paula cai, jieyu chen, leilani fujimoto, clarice Crème de Cornell, an independent student publication located at Cornell University, produced and is responsible for the content of this publication. This publication was not reviewed or approved by, nor does it necessarily express or reflect the policies or opinions of, Cornell University or its designated representatives. Crème de Cornell is a magazine published by the Cornell Gourmet Club each semester. If you are interested in joining, please contact us at cornellgourmetclub@gmail.com. Find us on facebook at www.facebook.com/CornellGourmetClub and at cornellgourmetclub.org.
Funded by SAFC and ALANA Intercultural Board
letter from the editor Culture is something that defines us all, and one medium through which we distinguish our culture is food. It is walking into a ramen shop with the unified greeting of ‘irasshaimase,’ encountering the waft of pungent scents at a spice market, sampling a guarded, familial pasta recipe, roasting a whole pig enveloped in a mass of flames, but also witnessing the extreme care on display in the preparation of the food and the pride taken in sharing these delicacies with other cultures. Although our food is a way to embrace and accentuate our varying origins and traditions, it is these differences and the sharing of our beloved cuisines that have the ability to connect us. This issue of Crème de Cornell celebrates food’s relationship to culture in many of its cherished forms. Become a master of Indian spices and take a tour through the frenzied streets of Flushing. Travel to Beijing to sample the rich diversity of its culinary offerings. Impress houseguests with your Dominique
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hanmal, kristi krulcik, thanh nguyen, celena peng, neha ratna, julia ridley, victoria sadosky, bingyan shi, yuanyuan tang, quanda wan, jess wu
HEAD OF LAYOUT victoria sadosky LAYOUT STAFF paula cai, neha ratna, lining zheng advisor rupert spies front cover by victoria sadosky, back cover by jieyu chen
Ansel mastery, or the majesty of Japanese honey toast, whose sovereign appearance will make you seem like royalty in the kitchen. Make your way through the labyrinth of Greenwich Village until you stumble upon the quaint Turkish gem serving decadent goat milk frozen yogurt, or have a taste of Istanbul right here in Ithaca. In addition to exploring culture through international cuisine, we see how culture is demonstrated through the wider food industries and environments. Whether it’s delving into the food truck obsession on campus, peering behind the closed doors of the food import business, or roasting apples by the fire in the wilderness, culture transcends beyond the plate and inhabits greater realms. Whether this issue leads you to delve into a foreign culture or reminisce about your hometown in all its culinary glory, we hope it encourages you to relish the gastronomical diversity at Cornell, inspiring you to reach out to the melting pot of individuals on your own
campus and to share your culture’s food with fellow Cornellians.
Victoria Sadosky
reviews
contents
3 Victory Garden’s Turkish Delight • by victoria sadosky New York City’s frozen yogurt gem
11 Food Truck Mania • by haswiny deva and neha ratna
recipes
A tour of Cornell’s two newest food trucks
5 Toast Royale • by jieyu chen
21 A Taste of Istanbul in Ithaca • by julia ridley
This isn’t your regular toast
A review of Istanbul Turkish Kitchen
27 Tour de Flushing • by celena peng
30 Vietnamese Egg Roll: College stuednt Edition • by thanh nguyen A family recipe transformed
Your guide to Asian cuisine in the heart of Queens
31 A Sweet Surprise: Delicious Madeleins • by 29 Korean Cravings • by jennifer chun jess wu
A review of Koko’s in Collegetown
36 L’Arte del Gelato: Fall Favorite • by paula cai
Pumpkin tastes even better when it’s cold
Try out one of Dominique Ansel’s masterful creations
features 13 Gourmet in the Wild • by leilani fujimoto Huddling around the campfire never tasted so good
travel guide
16 A Flavor of India: Spices • by neha ratna
4 Colorado Cuisine • by emily miller
The spice master tells all
A sampling of Colorado’s local delicacies
23 The Top 5 Apple Fest Indulgences • by victoria sadosky
7 A Taste of Beijing • by paula cai A restaurant guide to cuisine in China’s capital
15 Summer Unajuu in Tokyo • by yuanyuan tang Who knew eel could be so delicious?
19 A Melting Pot of Traditions: Taiwanese Cuisine • by daniel huang A glimpse into Taiwan’s indigenous inspirations
37 A Look into Michelin 3-star Restaurants in Hong Kong • by Jess Wu
Let’s get to the core of the apple
32 From Cornellian to International Food Entrepeneur • by victoria sadosky An interview with the Chairman of Atalanta, George Gellert
35 The Art of the Burger • by evy li Burgers are for more than just eating
41 Healthy Eating - How Easy is it? • by clarice hanmal An interview with Beth McKinney, Director of Cornell’s Wellness Program
Your guide to the fine dining in the ‘fragrant harbor’
39 From Shanghai to New York • by michelle chen A New York map for a visitor
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Victory Garden’s Turkish Delight text and photo by victoria sadosky
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reenwich Village in the past few years has become a base for the thriving ice cream and frozen yogurt culture. You have the traditional Italian at Grom, L’Arte del Gelato and Otto (distinguished for the famed olive oil gelato and parfaits), the artistic at Amorino (known for its flower shaped creations), and the imaginative at Popbar, Culture and the Japanese-inspired Chickalicious Dessert Club (technically in the East Village, but a Greenwich Village location is finally opening this year!). However, if you’re ever in my neighborhood and feel like stepping out of the conventional dessert boundaries, visit Victory Garden for a non-traditional frozen yogurt experience with cultural flair. Having opened back in 2011, this quaint Turkish soft serve spot is now quickly gaining the attention of the epicurean community throughout the city. Nestled in a tiny space right off of the chaotic Bleecker Street, you could easily pass by the miniscule storefront without a second glance.
The novelty of the flavors stems from the integration of herbs, spices and floral varieties into the indulgent frozen yogurt flavors with which we can all identify. Most of their flavors change periodically, including chocolate rosemary, rose petal, orange blossom vanilla and carrot cake, just to name a few. Don’t be afraid to try some of the more unconventional flavors, as the blending of these unique ingredients is made with such forethought. Your palate might be taken aback at first from the unusual flavor combinations, but once a few mouthfuls have been dissolved, you will surely become addicted, your spoon incessantly plunging into the beautifully peaked mountain of frozen yogurt, while you’re thinking, “This is a strange combination, but it actually works.” Their innovative toppings are also worth trying, from crumbled halvah, pistachios and cocoa nibs, to the healthier chia and flaxseeds.
What initially drew me to this place a few years ago was one fact: it was the only place I knew of that served goat milk soft serve. Not only is goat milk healthier for you (being rich in iron, calcium and protein), it is also lactose-friendly, making it a easier to digest for the lactose-intolerant. The store is run by a Turkish owner, Sophia Brittan, who infuses the flavors of the Middle East into these delectable frozen yogurt creations. The soft serve is based off of the traditional dondurma, which is goat milk ice cream sold on the streets of Istanbul. Due to the addition of a wild orchid root, the dondurma is worked into elastic strands, which leads to it taking on the consistency of mozzarella. Brittan sources the majority of her ingredients from local farms throughout the state; in fact, the goat milk is from Side Hill Acres in Candor, NY, just a 25 minute drive from Ithaca.
Despite the range of toppings and changing flavors, my two favorite are their consistent offerings: tangy goat milk and salted caramel. The tangy goat milk is plain, yet genius in its simplicity; the flavor of the goat milk is embraced head on and is really the star. Top if off with some drizzled honey, which is a perfect sweet complement to the tangy goat milk (I always ask for extra honey). With the salted caramel, the goat milk flavor isn’t quite as prominent, but the complexity of this flavor arises from the goat milk being used as a foundation for the salted caramel, and gives the salted caramel a unique base with which to meld. If you’re ever in the area, don’t miss Victory Garden, as the complexity of flavors, coupled with the intermingling of exotic ingredients and toppings will no doubt spike your palate’s curiosity and leave you savoring your last bite.
Victory Garden is located at 31 Carmine Street, New York , NY
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Colorado cuisine T
here are many places in the United States that have a particular food that defines their area. Chicago has deep dish pizza, the South has barbeque, Philadelphia has cheesesteaks and New York has cheesecakes. Although Western Colorado is not a place associated with a particular cuisine, I assure you that my home, in addition to the wonderful mountains, offers some truly delectable treats (and no, I am not talking about marijuana). Let’s start with my hometown: Palisade, Colorado. To give you a foretaste of what the food culture of my town looks like, our motto is “Life Tastes Good Here.” Thanks to our temperate climate and our position in a fertile valley, Palisade is perfect for growing all sorts of fruit. The valley is filled with apricot and plum blossoms, which turn into some of the most scrumptious apricots and plums you have tasted. Often, they are preserved in the forms of salsas, jams or jellies. Throughout the summer, there are several delicious varieties of cherries - bing cherries, sweet cherries, tart cherries. When September rolls around, the apples begin to appear. Like Apple Fest in Ithaca, my area hosts Apple Jubilee. Residents and visitors come to an oldschool, working farm to watch cider being pressed and to pick their own fresh, crisp apples. Also, if residents feel so inclined, they can stay and watch history come alive at Chautauqua, which is a performance where actors put together a forty minute narrative of a historical figure. I have seen Abraham Lincoln, Winston Churchill and Anne Frank come to life while I have enjoyed fresh picked fruit and freshly squeezed juice. Another local delicacy is our Olathe Sweet Corn. This corn is perfect for a backyard barbeque on a breezy summer day. Another local, must try is lavender. Think lavender is just good for Febreeze? Think again, as you devour lavender fudge.
text by emily miller photo by kristi krulcik Believe it or not, those previously mentioned fruits and products are not even the star of my hometown. What Palisade is really famous for is its peaches. The season lasts from mid-June to early September, and mid-August is the peak time. This is also when my town of three thousand throws the Peach Festival, which attracts 70,000 people from across the west who travel to see what the commotion is about. With names like Sun Crest, Red Globe, Red Haven, Coral Star and Crest Haven, it is hard to pick just one favorite peach variety. Eating fresh peaches is wonderful of course, but the peaches are also transformed into Peach Salsa, Peach Pie, Peach Fudge and Peach Daiquiris. What I have mentioned thus far is what you can simply eat from my hometown. Palisade has a thriving beverage scene as well. After Vermont, Colorado has the most breweries per capita than any state. In fact, Colorado’s governor owns his own brewery. The same state that serves your Friday nights with Keystone can also serve you more local craft and microbrews. There are several breweries around my hometown that serve fresh brews from hops that are grown on my street. Palisade also has a couple of distilleries. Exotic Colorado beverages include Peach Brandy and Pear Gin. Even after the distilleries and breweries, Palisade is most known for its viniculture. My little town has over 50 different wineries. Grapes flourish in the crisp mountain air and the dry climate. Reds, Whites and Roses with names like “Desert Blush” and “Late Harvest” grace the shelves of my town. Popular activities include taking wine tours in horse drawn carriages or biking through the vines on the “Colorado Fruit and Wine Trail.” You may have never heard of my town, but I hope you have now realized that Palisade, Colorado has a lot to offer. From fruit to fudge to wine, there is something for everyone. Feel guilty with all this decadence? Don’t be! You can easily walk off your indulgences hiking, biking, rafting or skiing. So next time you are remotely in the area (in Mountain Time), come check us out and see why, “Life Tastes Good Here.”
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toast royale text and photos by jieyu chen
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H
ow much do you know about toast? It might seem weird to ask this question since toast is an essential item on our everyday breakfast menu. I’m sure you have enjoyed the creaminess of golden French toast at Sunday brunch, probably with a cup of hot chocolate. However, did you ever imagine that these five inch pieces of toast could be converted into elegant art that has a flavorful world within it? Let me introduce you to this amazing dessert called Japanese honey toast. The shape of the dessert takes on the appearance of a brick, and thus it has another cute name—brick toast. I’ve had this dessert in many Asian cites such as Tokyo, Shanghai and Hong Kong; however, it was in the small Japanese street cafes that honey toast originated. These cafes are where people usually go after work for a bite to eat or young girls go to hang out. Here at Cornell, I sometimes miss the taste of honey toast when all I get from the dining hall and Collegetown are brownies, cheesecakes, and cupcakes. Recently, I tried making brick toast on my own and it turned out to be successful, so I’d like to share my authentic recipe with you!
Ingredients: 5 inch thick of unsliced sandwich bread (10 cm thick) 1/3 cup unsalted butter, softened (76g) ¼ cup granulated sugar (50g; 4 tablespoons) 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 large banana, sliced 3 scoops vanilla ice cream 2 wafer sticks for decoration, optional
Directions: MAKE THE BREAD BRICKS
Preheat the oven to 360 degrees F (180 C). To make the bread bricks, first slice a 5 inch thick, unsliced sandwich bread in half. Then cut out a square: make 2 incisions vertically on top and another 2 incisions horizontally. Make sure to leave about 1 inch from the edges and bottom of the bread. For the first brick, make an incision on one side, 1 inch from the bottom, leaving 1 inch from the corners as well. It should look like a container. For the other brick, just cut out a square, leaving 1 inch from the edges. Now set aside the 2 bricks. Cut the rest of the bread into small cubes. BUTTER
In a mixing bowl which contains 1/3 cup of softened, unsalted butter, add ¼ cup of granulated sugar and 1 teaspoon of pure vanilla extract. Whisk until combined. Spread the butter mixture inside of the bricks and on the small cubes. BAKE & ASSEMBLE
Bake in the oven for about 8 minutes, or until golden brown. To build a Japanese honey toast, first fill the inside of the brick bottom with bread cubes and banana slices. I am using bananas, but of course you can add any fruit of your choice. Then drizzle honey on top and place the hollow brick over the first brick, twisting slightly. Again, fill it with bread cubes and banana slices. My recipe typically includes 2 wafer sticks for decoration, however it’s totally up to you. For example, you could add macarons or chocolate mousse. Finally, place 3 scoops of vanilla ice cream on top and drizzle with honey.
Voila! A modern dessert building is complete. The crunchy toast, along with the refreshing, honey scent and the rich texture of the butter integrated into this tiny brick, create a unique flavor. In the end, the cold ice cream contrasts with the warm toast, cleanses your palate, and creates a lingering aftertaste. Bon appetit! fall 2014Spring 20146
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taste of beijing
Text by Paula Cai Photos by Paula Cai and Quanda Wan
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orn and raised in Beijing, China, I am lucky to be exposed to a great variety of cuisines in one city. It was not until I came to the lovely village of Ithaca that I have started to truly miss the diversity of food in a big city like Beijing. Over the summer, I went back to Beijing and started to take pictures of all the memorable food I had. Now, I am willing to share with you all my favorite Beijing food from this past summer.
Da Dong: Upscale Beijing Food Da Dong is an upscale restaurant dedicated specifically to traditional Beijing cuisine, and specially, Peking Roast Duck. What makes it stand out from so many other Beijing cuisine restaurants is that it emphasizes fusing the Chinese cuisine with Western cuisine, while at the same time maintaining the originality of the Beijing cuisine. The elegant atmosphere of the restaurant features traditional wooden chairs and tables, and the kitchen that is dedicated to roasting the ducks has transparent glass walls so customers can directly see how the ducks are being prepared.
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The Peking Roast Duck served in Da Dong distinguishes itself by reducing the amount of oil, but increasing the crispiness of the duck skin. It is interesting to have eight types of condiments to wrap the duck in the pancake. There are melons, cucumbers, two types of pickles, garlic, white sugar, Roast Duck sauce, and scallions. You can mix and match different condiments to create your personalized taste of roast duck. My personal favorite is mixing the melons, cucumbers, sugar, and the duck sauce because I love how the sweet fruit and refreshing vegetable complement the relatively oily duck.
Da Dong also has my favorite Chinese dessert on earth, which is the soyabean milk ice cream. Soya-bean milk is a common breakfast drink for Chinese, and we eat it with Youtiao, a fried bread stick. This dessert replicates a traditional Chinese breakfast, but in this case it has transformed into a dessert version. The ice cream has just the right balance of creaminess, freshness, and sweetness. The sesame-pasted bread crisps drizzled on top and at the bottom take the role of the Youtiao. Its role is just like the biscuits served on top of gelato. Dining in Da Dong is always a pleasant experience because the presentation of food is so artistic and appetizing. The menu is like a thick recipe book, but instead of showing recipes, it has poetic descriptions for each dish written in traditional Chinese calligraphy. Apart from the highlights which I mentioned above, the scallops and shrimp balls are also great choices.
Carmen: A Spanish Cuisine in the Corner of the Bustling Malls Carmen has the best seafood and squid paella, as well as Jamon Serrano. The restaurant is located quietly in the corner of the most popular open-air complex in Beijing, Sanlitun. Marbled ground and Spanish white walls make it unique and attractive to people who have spent their afternoon walking in the mall. It has a small setting compared to most restaurants in Beijing, which makes it even more popular and genuine.
My favorite dish is the squid paella. The rice has the right balance of crustiness and softness. Unlike paellas in other restaurants which include less seafood variety, Carmen’s paellas possess the right amount and selection of fresh seafood. A fun part of eating this dish is seeing your friends and families’ tongues and teeth turn black while enjoying its delicacy.
Japanese Food Invasion
Ling Mu Shi Tang The beef hot pot in Ling Mu Shi Tang surprised me in a positive way. It contains all my favorite vegetables, such as mushrooms, carrots, and cabbages, while at the same time the beef is chewy and gratifying! Although there is a lot of meat, the broth is not oily at all. It goes perfectly with rice, with a dip of the raw egg. I imagine it is going to be such a hearty treat for winter!
Koyama Japanese Cuisine These two pictures are from Koyama Japanese Cuisine. The picture on the left is an oyster hotpot. Besides the palatable fresh oysters, I love how clearly and beautifully they present all the ingredients in the raw and fresh format, allowing you to see how they are cooked right in front of you. They also have salmon eggs, which are big and chewy. The moment you squeeze the eggs with your teeth, you can feel the cool liquid inside the eggs bursting out in your mouth, giving you the whole taste of the ocean, the true taste of freshness!
Kumashika Nothing beats sashimi in the area of Japanese cuisine. This giant bowl of sashimi that was offered unlimited in the served-to-you buffet in Kumashika was definitely worth trying. From the display of the colorful fish slices to its succulent taste and trusted freshness, this Japanese food buffet has been one of the best choices in Beijing.
A Hint of Sweetness: My most memorable desserts over the summer in Beijing Matcha Molten Salted Egg Custard Steamed Buns (Liu Sha Bao): Tang Chao This delicious Chinese dim sum differentiates itself from the custard bun or the traditional Liu Sha Bao because it keeps the originality by making the inside stuffing extraordinarily molten, while adding a trace of the Japanese green tea flavor-a perfect balance of saltiness and sweetness. I fell in love with the velvety texture of the matcha bun, which complements perfectly with the molten stuffing. You could poke the bun with your chopsticks and the bun’s skin would bounce back, the fog coming out through the hole you poked, and making a beautiful steam in the air. It tasted like heaven!
Citrus Soufflé: Opera Bombana Mr. Bombana is a renowned Italian chef who previously opened his Michelin 3-star restaurant in Hong Kong. As a foodie, I could not miss the chance of experiencing a dressed-down version of a Michelin 3-star restaurant in my hometown Beijing. What impressed me the most during my dinner was the dessert, which was the fluffiest soufflé I have ever seen in my life. The soufflé puffed out and when it came to my table, it was still making those sizzling sounds, so I could immediately visualize what was happening inside with the bubbles. The soufflé melted immediately after I put it into my mouth, with the light citrus smell and the creaminess of the soufflé diffusing as well. The bubbly soufflé literally evaporates in your mouth..
High tea: Taste or Look? Secret Sucre
This is my favorite high tea in Beijing, located amidst an artistic neighborhood, which most people do not know even exists. You get to choose your own combination of desserts and even make your own personalized order if you order early. There are so many high tea choices in big cities like Beijing-they all have an extravagant presentation, with elegant plates and colorful desserts and snacks. However, honestly speaking, most of them do not taste as good as they look. This frustrated me because people could easily be deceived by the pictures and the appearance. This high tea has all the elegance and beauty, but at the same time possesses delicious and unique tastes. The napoleon has refreshing jasmine cream in between the puff pastry sheet. It possesses the taste of fresh Chinese tea and crispy textures. The other napoleon combines matcha and chocolate. The fresh and ground matcha matches perfectly with the creamy and heavy chocolate, both in taste and appearance. The cream between the puffy sheets was moist and diffused with chocolate and matcha flavors.
nia a m k c u r t food
text by haswiny deva and neha ratna photos by jieyu chen, clarice hanmal, victoria sadosky, jess wu
Franny’s Why is there always a crowd around the glowing box near Milstein, you ask? What you’re looking at is Franny’s, Cornell’s newest food truck designed by students for students. The food truck has been running since August and has only gained popularity ever since. Franny’s in many ways represents the Cornell community. Much like the eclectic mix of students on campus, the cuisine is a representation of the melting pot that is Cornell. The
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menu features fusion foods of Vietnamese, Indian, Mexican and Korean origins, including noodle and rice bowls, dumplings, banh mi sandwiches, and dosas. While it has received mix reviews from students, with menu items ranging from $5-$8, Franny’s is certainly worth a try. Besides wanting to see more seasonal variety, our only critique would be that the food truck, despite being considered an on campus eatery, does not accept BRBs.
Collegetown Crêpes Originating from a quaint region of northwest France, crêpes have made their way all the way to Collegetown! Collegetown Crêpes is the newest food truck in town and the coolest, late night snack to grab. Two recent graduates from Cornell Classes 2015 and 2011 ventured into the business of food trucks and decided to open this new option for late night
Collegetown consumers. They have a wide range of savory and sweet crêpe recipes, but choose only a couple to be featured on their daily menu. So far, I personally love their pumpkin spice crêpe it’s the perfect blend of slight sweetness with that rich pumpkin taste, encased by a crispy, yet delectable crêpe! Amongst their savory treats, their regular ham and cheese is a classic. Don’t take it for something short of spectacular though, they sneak in some slices of fresh apple and dijon mustard that make it to-die-for! The only critique we would have for them is to use their other recipes more often. Their website has many different crêpe combinations, but they never seem to make an appearance. Definitely check out Collegetown Crêpes next time you’re in the area for a quick and delicious bite!
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GOURMET IN THE WILD TEXT AND PHOTOS BY LEILANI FUJIMOTO
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hen I enrolled in Adirondack Canoe Camping as my PE class this semester, I was expecting a few days of braving the elements, camping around a blazing fire, and riding the river. What I did not anticipate was the amazing variety of cuisine we’d be eating: from curry to peach cobbler to s’mores, this was truly a trip worth remembering. When I got back, I wrote this food journal, and I hope it inspires you to get out into the wilderness, and remember: being in the great outdoors doesn’t mean you can’t eat gourmet.
DAY 1: Chili & Fire-roasted Apples with Peanut Butter After a beautiful and exhausting day of paddling through the Saranac Lakes, we camped on an island and made chili and fire-roasted potatoes. To do so, we wrapped the potatoes in aluminum foil and placed them in the coals, slowly letting them cook over the course of an hour. The chili was delicious— except we discovered that someone had forgotten the tomatoes! Despite the lack of tomatoes, we enjoyed a delicious mix of white and black beans, garlic, cheese, onions, and carrots, all sautéed and steaming over hot, baked potatoes. After consuming the chili, we enjoyed this tasty treat. We first cut an apple in half, taking out the core and seeds. Next, we scooped out peanut butter and placed it in the center of the apple. (I added cinnamon, too.) We then put the two halves of the apple back together so it looked like an apple again, and wrapped it in aluminum foil, poking holes in the foil to make sure it didn’t explode. The apples were placed in the fire and covered with coals and burning logs. The apples roasted for approximately 20-30 minutes before we finally removed the
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foil and enjoyed the warm treat.
DAY 2: Wraps & Curry Every day at lunch, we paddled our canoes over to a nearby island, pulled them up on the shore, and camped out on a warm rock to make and eat wraps. These weren’t your ordinary wraps, though. We filled them with bean sprouts, avocado, peppers, cheese (we must’ve eaten several pounds of cheese by the end of the trip), pepperoni, and hummus, and the wraps had flavors like “garlic herb” and “tomato basil.” We also had dessert wraps filled with Nutella, peanut butter, and apples. (You become rather hungry when you’re canoeing all day, so dessert at lunch sounded good to me. Actually, who needs an excuse to eat dessert at lunch?) Also, if you’ve never tried Nutella on avocado, you’re missing out. It sounds like a weird combination, but it’s actually delicious. I would like to acknowledge my Australian friend Crista for revealing this secret to me. For dinner on the second night of our trip, we made curry, a combination of potatoes, broccoli, carrots, peppers, onions, and spices over rice.
Day 3: Thanksgiving & Peach Cobbler On Monday, October 13th, we celebrated Canadian Thanksgiving, which was really meaningful because one of the people on our trip was from Canada. This was the crowning masterpiece of our meals, complete with mashed potatoes, gravy, stuffing, turkey sautéed with mushrooms, onions, and garlic, and sautéed vegetables, including corn, peppers, and green beans.
There’s a trick to making peach cobbler in the wilderness. First off, you need a large pan with a lid, a couple cans of peaches, and white cake mix, plus some vegetable oil. We placed the peaches into the pan, covered them with white cake mix, and poured some vegetable oil on top. We then mixed it until none of the cake mix was dry anymore. We put the lid back on the pan and put the pan in the fire, covering it with coals and submerging it under fiery logs. We then had to wait approximately 20 minutes before removing it from the coals, and then we had to let the cobber cool for five minutes before it was ready to be devoured. Served warm and eaten around a fire, the cobbler tasted amazing. It wasn’t just the cobbler, though. It was the whole experience - canoeing through blue waters, camping in tents, whittling by the fireside. And at its heart, eating delicious food surrounded by people you’ve come to know and care about—there’s no better feeling in the world.
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Summer Unajuu in Tokyo Thanks to Tabelog (the Japanese version of Yelp), I tried some very delicious Unajuu this summer and finally discovered my favorite one at Obana, a restaurant that has been serving Unajuu for hundreds of years in Tokyo.
text and photos by yuanyuan tang
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ummer in Japan seems alluring to most. It is the season of visiting touristy Kyoto and embracing its rich exotic culture, and of course the season of beach and sunshine in Okinawa. But for foodies staying in Tokyo, it is eel time. Unagi (eel) is a relatively expensive delicacy in Japan. Traditionally, Japanese eat Unagi during the warmest time of summer to store strength and vitality for the rest of the year. Thus, a dish called Unajuu (pronounced “woo-nah-jew”) – Unagi over rice – is extremely popular during the summer. As a Kansaistyle Unagi dish, Unajuu is usually served in a finely crafted and decorated lacquer box.
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Since Obana does not take reservations, when I arrived there at lunch time on a rainy day, a forty-five minute wait was unavoidable. After I was finally seated inside, I noticed that there was no Western style table or chair seating in the restaurant; instead, all the guests were sitting on the tatami mat floor.
The well-prepared Unajuu came in a squared, lacquer box. Opening the lid, I immediately saw beautifully grilled Unagi nestled on a bed of rice with shiny, mouthwatering sauce on top. The Unagi was so succulent and tender that “melting in my mouth” sounded like a cliché when I tried to describe the soft and fluffy texture to my friends. The flavor of the sauce was very rich, yet refined at the same time. It was tangy, as well as salty, which also went pretty well with the rice. One special thing about Obana is that it has tanks full of live eels. That is to say, the chefs there will not begin preparing your eel dishes until after you order them, and so the cooking process takes a quite bit of time. However, you are guaranteed completely fresh eel, which trust me, is definitely worth the wait.
A FLAVOR OF INDIA: SPICES
text by neha ratna photos courtesy of creative commons
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pices are truly a reflection of Indian culture. There’s sour, pungent, hot, bitter, salty, even sweet spices! The magical combination of these in a single bite is the most intriguing part of having an Indian dish which simply bursts with flavor. Just as languages, customs, and norms change from state to state in India, so do the many varieties of dishes and spices. India has an innumerable amount of dishes within about 28 different cuisines. Because we can’t get into all of them, we’re going to explore four different cuisines that come from different regions of the country. Starting with the West of India and finishing our tour with the North of India, we will delve into all the various spices and flavors that make India a truly unique country in the culinary world. fall 2014Spring 2014
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Rajasthan, a beautiful West Indian state situated amongst the Thar desert is known for its use of basic ingredients to make the most variety of dishes in all of India. The Mughal history of this region characterizes the rich ingredients and royal cooking styles used. The dishes are also made to sustain the harsh weather conditions in the desert and require minimal refrigeration. Most traditional Rajasthani food does not require excessive water or leafy vegetables. The emergence of more milk products, butter, lentils, and bajra (pearl millet) are used for substitutes and/or nutritional value. However, what makes Rajasthan famous is their unique and colorful spices. From kalonji (nigella seeds) and ajwain (carom seeds) to amchoor (dried mango powder) and heeng (asafoetida), to name a few, Rajasthan knows how to play up the strengths of each of their flavors and combine them into the famous Rajasthani thali. Next time you have a chance to try some authentic Rajasthani dishes, definitely try the daal bati churma; it is a special lentil curry made with tuvar daal (pigeon pea), baati (hard wheat bread), and is cooked for hours with numerous spices. And don’t forget to end your meal with, my personal favorite dessert of all time, Rajasthani’s native rabdi (a soft, creamy dish made with a base of condensed milk and flavored with cardamom, saffron, and sugar)!
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Next on the tour is East India and for this we are going to look into the flavors of Bengali Cuisine. Nestled amongst largely fertile land, the region is a major producer of agriculture. Hence, Bengali cuisine is largely influenced by the use of the local produce – rice, milk, and fish are major staples. Unique to this region is a sweet, fresh water fish named rehu, which is used as a delicacy during festivals. Some interesting spices that are used in this region are radhuni (celery seeds), kabab chini (a special mixture of cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and ground bayleaf) and jayitri (mace: a powder made from the outer covering of a nutmeg nut). Traditionally in Bengali cuisine, strong, bold flavors are used for marination while lighter spices are used as finishing touches or for plating. Some native dishes you might want to give a try are doi maach served with bhaat (rice) and shondesh for dessert! Doi maach is a sort of fish gravy in which fish is marinated and then cooked with yogurt and some mild spices, such as haldi (turmeric) and jeera (cumin seeds); the result is a mildly spicy, rich gravy with hints of garlic and ginger, and juicy, tender pieces of fish. Once you have shondesh though, I promise you won’t be able to get enough of the creamy and delectable sweet that makes Bengali cuisine famous for their sweets!
Our next stop is a cuisine which originates within the rice fields of a certain region of South India in the state of Kerala. Kerala cuisine encompasses a multitude of different spices and ingredients that are not as prominent in other regions of India. Rice and fish being their large staple, they are slightly similar to Bengali cuisine, however the differences in the spices they use make their dishes stand out from the others. One major difference in ingredients is the use of coconut. Coconuts are much more prominent in this region of India so is their use in Kerala cuisine. Some other unique ingredients are chunia kela (plantains), arbi (taro), and rakha lauki (ash gourd). Some spices that are primarily used in this region are imli (taramind), kadi patta (curry tree leaves), and methi (fenugreek). Two dishes from this region that you should certainly try are masala dosa and Malabar biryani. Imagine a soft and crispy, fermented crepe encasing cooked potatoes with onions and spices, and served with a delicious curry sambar. That would be a plate of masala dosa. Though masala dosa is a popular South Indian dish in general, Kerala adds a twist by adding a touch of coconut to the mix of flavors. The Malabar biryani, however, is a Kerala native as it originated on the Malabar coast. A biryani is a complicated dish involving hours upon hours of cooking rice with a variety of ingredients and spices; the difference in ingredients yield the various types of biryanis seen all over India. The Malabar biryani is famous for its use of a different type of rice: kaima (short-grained thin rice). In addition, the blend of mint,
tomatoes, coconut oil, and other ingredients plus several common spices give an aromatic, finished dish that will make you crave more! The last cuisine we’re going to delve into is Punjabi cuisine, coming from the state of Punjab in the north of India. For those of you who have had Indian food in a restaurant, you may be most familiar with this type of cuisine; naan, chicken tikka masala, chole bhature and paneer makhani are some pretty commonplace dishes in most Indian resturants, and are all parts of Punjabi cuisine. The large agricultural influence makes wheat, paneer (cheese made from milk), and ganna (sugarcane) major ingredients. Punjabi cuisine is exemplified by its use of excess garlic, ginger, onions, and ghee (homemade purified butter). Thus, they use more commonplace spices such as garam masala (a blend of spices), sukha dhaniya (dried cilantro powder), sarson ke beej (mustard seeds), degi mirch (chili powder), jeera (cumin), and haldi (turmeric). Some native Punjabi spices or ingredients are gurd (jaggery) and surajmukhi ka tel (sunflower oil). Since most Punjabi dishes are widely accepted norms of “Indian food,” I’m going to tell you about one dessert that you may not have heard of: falooda. Falooda is a sugery milk-based dessert drink which consists of vermicelli noodles, tulsi ke beej (basil seeds), and tapioca topped with kulfi (an Indian version of ice cream) and rose syrup!
As you can tell, spices are the key ingredients behind the differences in tastes of all cuisines from India. There are hundreds of common spices used all over India, in addition to the ones mentioned in this article. So next time you go to an Indian restaurant, try and figure out what spices are in your dish and remember that each spice has centuries worth of history attached to it that make it truly unique – not only in taste!
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a melting pot of trad taiwanese cuisine
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lthough Taiwan is a small island, its geographic location and history give rise to the incredible diversity of Taiwanese cuisine today. Taiwanese cuisine has been strongly influenced by many areas of mainland China, including provinces Fujian, Fuzhou, Chaozhou, and Guangdong, which create an eclectic fusion of Chinese tastes. Japanese cooking styles have also made their way to the island, inspiring increased usage of seafood like prawns and fish. In addition, Taiwan features a wide variety of aboriginal foods found in remote regions of Taiwan, as well as its famous night markets. Because of the influence from China, Taiwan is
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seen as a melting pot of its many culinary traditions. Of the eight major Chinese culinary sects, Fujian style is the most prevalent in Taiwan. It includes dishes typically seen in restaurants, like Buddha Jumps over the Wall and ban mian. In addition, it has inspired more commonplace foods like oyster omelet and popiah. In addition to the China-influenced dishes, Taiwan also has many unique foods inspired by the culture of its indigenous people. They traditionally live a simple hunting and gathering life, and as a result, utilize natural ingredients found in the environment, such
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by daniel by daniel huang huang photo photos by bingyan by bingyan shi & courtesy shi & courtesy of of creative creative commons commons
as peppercorns, peas, and leaves. They try to retain the natural flavors of foods by using steaming, boiling, and roasting as the primary methods of cooking. Some of the most famous aboriginal foods include bamboo-cooked rice and grilled boar on stone. Besides these aboriginal dishes, the famous night markets in Taiwan feature other popular local fares, such as Taiwanese meatball, stinky tofu, and shaved ice. Taiwanese cuisine is continuously evolving by incorporating foreign flavors and culinary traditions. Recently, it has increasingly been affected by Western cultures as restaurants
serve classics like pasta and steak dishes. Founded in Japan, mos burger has various locations in Taiwan and takes a creative spin on hamburgers by substituting traditional buns with compressed rice and patties with thinly sliced beef and other proteins. In addition, the presence of Taiwanese cuisine, albeit modified, is also seen in Western countries. Bubble tea has become a staple drink among many Americans – and certainly many Cornellians!
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a taste of istanbul in ithaca text by julia ridley photos by julia ridley and victoria sadosky
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thaca can often feel dominated by the big name, downtown restaurants: Mahogany Grill, Moosewood, Madeline’s, and the like. But there are not as well-known restaurants that also deserve some credit. Such is the case with the recently opened Istanbul Turkish Kitchen, which provides Ithaca with its first, truly Turkish cuisine. The façade is unassuming; it resides in a small plaza with no other restaurants and mostly empty storefronts, far from the bustle of downtown. But inside, the ambiance is lovely and distinctly Middle Eastern. Soft lights hang from the ceiling with beautiful mosaic glass shades, complemented by individual mosaic, votive candleholders at each table. The walls are decorated with intricate, silver decorations and traditional, blue eye pendants, which are the restaurant’s logo. I started my meal with a yogurt-based Turkish drink called ayran, similar to the Indian lassi. While the waiter did warn me that the drink is an acquired taste, I took his words with little heed. My first sip was shocking; its extremely salty and bitter taste accosted me immediately. In the United States, our drinks are usually sweet, so it took some willpower for me to overcome the initial taste. I did eventually come to enjoy it, but only in very small sips. Next I was brought Turkish bread with herbed, olive oil. The flat loaf was denser than the usual sandwich bread, but was soft and reminiscent of Italian focaccia. I also tried an appetizer sampler with 5 parts: cacik (yogurt dip with garlic and parsley), soslu patlican (chopped baby eggplant with red pepper paste and tomatoes), bulgar pilav (bulgar cooked in tomato-onion broth), zeytinyagli sarma (stuffed grape leaves), and beyaz peynir (Turkish feta cheese). The soslu patlican was
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my favorite of the sampler, especially delicious layered with the beyaz penir atop the Turkish bread. All combinations of appetizers worked well together. My main course consisted of two plates: manti and kuzu sis kebab. The manti is described in the menu as “Turkish dumplings” filled with ground soy, so when my dish was brought out, I was surprised to see a plate full of purseshaped, half-inch long “dumplings.” The little dumplings were topped with a tomato sauce and the same soslu patlican from the appetizer. I enjoyed the combination of savory, meaty flavors, but in total, it wasn’t more exciting than standard pasta with marinara sauce. As for the kuzu sis kebab, a dish of grilled seasoned lamb, I was impressed that the lamb was juicy and tender even without any sauce. It came with the accompaniments common for all of their kebab plates: rice pilav, onion salad, carrot salad, and grilled sweet pepper, which added a colorful element to the presentation. Lastly, for dessert I ordered a Turkish coffee. It was served in an ornate, silver filigreed coffee cup holder, cover, and saucer. While it was only about the size of an espresso cup, the coffee flavor packed a real punch. This coffee is not for the faint of heart lattedrinkers; it was nearly overpowering, even with sugar. The homemade, walnut baklava was also a standout, moist and packed with flavor. It made for a fitting end to the meal in a restaurant that introduced me to the character of Turkish cuisine: strong, full-flavored, and unapologetic.
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The Top 5 Apple Fest Indulgences
text and photos by victoria sadosky
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f you’ve ever been to the annual Apple Harvest Festival in Ithaca, you know that the festival uses the iconic apple simply as a starting point to celebrate the coming of fall and all its delicacies. From classic fair food and apple treats, to sophisticated wine tastings and international cuisines, the range of choices can be overwhelming to any first time attendee. Here are our top five picks from Apple Fest:
Caramel Apple Sundae This is the quintessential treat of Apple Fest, the one I dream about all year long. There are two main vendors that make the sundaes, and they are slightly different. The sundae on Aurora Street comes with a few slices of apples and homemade caramel sauce, and is topped with nuts and whipped cream if you so desire. The success of this sundae lies in its simplicity, and the limited options gives the flavors an opportunity to really stand on their own and shine – perfect for the purists. The vendor on West State Street has a wider range of toppings; there is an option to add chocolate sauce in addition to the conventional caramel, and one can request to top off their sundae with candy corn, sprinkles, or chocolate chips. This vendor is a great option for a person who wants to make their sundae more of a creation.
Pumpkin Funnel Cake I have had funnel cake at mostly every fair growing up, but Apple Fest was the first time I tasted pumpkin funnel cake. It can be a hit-or-miss, but when it comes out just at the right temperature and consistency - warm, slightly crisp on the outside and soft on the inside - it is quite the treat that you won’t be able to stop eating.
Blooming Onion This is definitely one of the most unique fair foods I have ever eaten. The name simply captivates you, and when you see others walking by with this monstrosity, you can’t help but be curious and order one for yourself. These are sold from a vendor with a whimsical exterior evocative of a funhouse. A mound of onions is covered in batter and deep-fried, and there is a choice of dipping sauce (honey mustard is one of my favorites). When it comes out, the treat is a thing of beauty, the thin and crispy strips of onion taking on the appearance of petals on a flower. However, the serving is much bigger than it looks, and you can easily feel as if you have had enough after a few bites, so ideally it is best to share between a few friends.
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Amish Baked Goods From apple and pecan pies, raspberry and chocolate angel cakes, to banana and pumpkin bread, and miniature whoopee pies, this vendor was definitely a favorite among the crowds. I only had the privilege of trying the pumpkin bread, which was soft and had just the right amount of pumpkin flavor. My friend tried one of the angel cakes, which she said was a success, and based on the grins from the people consuming the other treats on the spot, I assume their other baked
goods are worth trying. However, make sure to visit them on either Friday or Saturday, as they were gone by Sunday.
Lao Village This vendor is more off the beaten path, located at the end of the international cuisine strip on South Cayuga Street. Unfortunately they are from Syracuse, NY, or I would be ordering takeout from them quite often. The vendor features cuisine from Thailand and Laos, from Massaman chicken curry, Pad Thai and noodles in red curry, to sweet potatoes, apples and taro deep fried in a coconut milk batter, with sweet chili sauce on the side. The choices are a little more unique than some of the other vendors, and the flavors are quite authentic.
apple cider donuts
congratulations to our apple fest instagram contest winner: rohan motwani!
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tour de flushing text and photos by celena peng
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f you are in the New York City area and would like to have some authentic Chinese food, Flushing is your destination. Hopping on the 7 train straight to Flushing - Main Street, you’ll be able to find the most authentic Chinese food in town. It has hundreds of restaurants representing cuisines across China, and some of them taste even better than those in China. Here are some of my must go to places in Flushing!
Asian Jewels Seafood Restaurant 13330 39th Ave Flushing, NY 11354 Asian Jewels Seafood is one of the best places to enjoy Chinese brunch with family and friends on the weekends in the Flushing region. Dim sum is served on carts, ensuring the food is always fresh when served.
Red Bowl Noodle Shop 40-52 Main St Flushing, NY 11354 Red Bowl Noodle Shop features the best Taiwanese minced pork over rice in town. They also serve other delicious Chinese dishes, from Szechuan spicy style to Hong Kong style. In addition, they offer a breakfast buffet in the morning with an array of dim sum, noodles, and porridges. The best part about the restaurant is that it is open 24/7, making it a local’s best friend late at night.
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Szechuan Gourmet 135-15 37th Ave Flushing, NY 11354 Szechuan Gourmet is recognized for the most authentic Szechuan cuisine in town. If you don’t like spicy food, this restaurant is probably not for you; however, if you have a high spice tolerance, this place is heaven. Some of their signature dishes include duck tongue with Sichuan pepper corns, double cooked pork belly with chili leeks, chicken with roasted chili peanut, and mapo tofu.
New World Mall Food Court 136-20 Roosvelt Ave Flushing, NY 11354 Eating at the mall can be quite overwhelming if you don’t know what you’re craving. The food court offers cuisines from all across China, as well as Korea and Japan, in the style of Hibachi. Some of my favorites dishes are Spicy Dry Pot, KungFu Bubble Tea, and fish dumplings. Most of the food available is affordable. However, do note that most places are cash only.
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s a Korean-American Cornell student living in Ithaca, authentic Korean food is a necessity that I always crave. When I get these cravings for Korean food, I head over to Koko’s on College Ave. Koko’s is a cozy Korean restaurant that reminds me of my favorite Korean places in New York City. Depending on my mood, my go to dishes are the Soon Doo Boo Jigae and the Dol Sot Bibimbap. Both are very delicious, spicy, flavorful, and are served in goodsized portions. Soon Doo Boo Jigae is a hot stew made with uncured tofu, or “soft tofu,” and a medley of seafood. This dish is served with a side of white rice. On the other hand Bibimbap is a mix of rice, vegetables, and a choice of proteins with sesame oil and chili paste. Both entrees are served in traditional Korean earth ware bowls, which adds cook time and flavor of these yummy dishes. If you’ve never tried Korean food, I highly recommend trying these two dishes to get an authentic taste of Korea in Ithaca!
text by jennifer chun photo by jess wu
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VIETNAMESE EGG ROLL: COLLEGE STUDENT EDITION text and photos by Thanh Nguyen
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eprived of my mom’s heavenly, homemade Vietnamese dishes for quite some time, I have taken up the challenge of recreating her dishes, the college way. Finding a true Vietnamese egg roll has been quite difficult in Ithaca, since it has to be made out of rice paper, as opposed to wonton wrap or wheat paper, and dipped in nuoc mam chua ngot, a Vietnamese sweet and sour fish sauce. So on one rainy, fall day, a few friends and
I decided to improvise the traditional Vietnamese egg roll for our fusion potluck. We ended up having sayur lodeh, a Singaporean vegetable curry, minestrone soup, and rice, served with the egg rolls as an appetizer. The rolls were missing the creaminess of taro, my mom’s secret ingredient, but they were just as crunchy and savory as the original! Try them yourselves by following my recipe:
Ingredients:
10oz of grounded pork 1 small cooking onion, diced 1 cup of chopped mushrooms 1 small bag of rice noodles, soaked in hot water and cut 1 tbsp of chopped garlic 1 tbsp of chopped shallots 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 cup of bean sprouts Rice paper (I often use “Viet Way Rice Paper” from 2 tbsp of fish sauce (can substitute with soy sauce.) 1 tsp of black pepper Canola oil for frying Dipping Sauce: 2 tbsp of fish sauce 2 tsp of chopped garlic Red pepper (as desired) 1 lime 4 tbsp of water 2 tbsp of sugar
Directions Combine all the ingredients, except for the canola oil and rice paper, into a big bowl. Mix well. Prepare for rolling with a plate of water and a clean, cutting board. Complete the following steps: 1.Soak one piece of rice paper lightly in water. We want the rice paper to turn soft and damp so it could wrap around the filling nicely. 2.Fold a small edge of the rice paper to make room for some filling. Scoop around one tablespoon of the mixture, and then fold both sides to cover the filling. 3. Start rolling gently from the bottom up and seal the edge with a little bit of water. 4. Heat the canola oil at 350°F and deep fry the rolls until golden brown. Make sure they don’t touch each other in the pan. 5. Combine dipping sauce ingredients in a small bowl and stir well. 6. Serve with rice or noodle or enjoy simply on their own - wrapped in lettuce and some Vietnamese herbs, such as mint or basil, with dipping sauce. fall 2014Spring 201430
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a sweet surprise: delicious madeleines text and photo by jess wu
Have you tasted madeleines before? If you haven’t, you are going to fall in love with this easy-to-make delicacy in five minutes. If you have, you might want to run back to your kitchen and make your own delicious, little madeleines for breakfast tomorrow right after reading this short article! So, are you ready for the sweet surprise? Actions Needed Most of the beautiful moments in life require some waiting time, such as the northern lights and the delicious madeleine! Your batter requires a good night of sleep before the magical deliciousness in its body awakes! Thus, we split the production into two sessions, Good Night and Good Morning. Don’t be scared, they both just take less than 15 minutes!
Good Night In this session, we are going to make the batter, which determines the taste of your madeleines. To make the batter, you need your Group A, B, and C ready. Cut the butter into cubes and combine it with the brown sugar and honey inside a small saucepot. Turn on the heat (LOW heat) and start heating the mixture. Your goal is to melt and blend all the sugar and oil together. When you start to heat the butter, take out a large and clean bowl. Put everything in Group B into the bowl and mix them together well (a whisk is recommended)! By the time you finish mixing Group B, your oil and sugar mixture should be ready! Turn off the heat when you get a good melted mixture because we want it to be burnt. Normally, you will have some impurities floating on the surface of your oil mixture due to the heating. No worries! Let’s filter them out by passing the oil mixture through a sift or similar tool. Leave the filtered oil mixture on the stove temporarily. We will need it in a couple of minutes! Get your Group C ready. Start with cracking one egg into the bowl that contains Group crème de cornellrnellell
Materials Needed Baking is an art of science and in order to succeed in baking, you need to have the correct materials ready in the correct portions. For making 18 delicious airy and buttery madeleines, you need to prepare the following ingredients/tools:
Group A: Unsalted Butter (8 tbsps), Dark Brown Sugar (1 tbsp), Honey (2 tsps) Group B: Granulated Sugar (1/2 cup), Kosher Salt (1/2 tsp) – if you use salted butter, you might skip this one - All Purpose Flour, sifted (1 cup), Baking Powder (1/2 tsp) Group C: 3 Whole Eggs (large), Grated Lemon Zest (1/2 Lemon), Grated Orange Zest (1/2 Orange) Tools: Non-stick Standard Madeleine Pan, Sift, Spatula, Whisk, Non-stick Cooking Spray, Ice-cream/cookie scoop (or spoon if that’s what you only have), some confectioner sugar for decorating.
B, and make sure your egg is well combined into the dry ingredients before you add the next egg. You should have a sticky, slightly fluid mixture after all the eggs are added. It is time to add your oil mixture! Add it slowing into the combination of Group B & eggs. And make sure every drop of your sugary oil is well incorporated into your batter. Get your grated zests from Group C ready and add them to the mixture. Mix them well into the batter. Now you should get a batter that has intermediate consistency (similar to the thicker pancake batter in a more brown or orange color)! We are 80% done! Put a plastic wrap ON THE SURFACE of your batter to avoid a batter skin from forming. Put the batter into the fridge - it needs a good night of sleep! Good night dear madeleines!
Good Morning The second session about making madeleines is BAKING them. The first thing you should do in the morning is to turn the oven to 375 F (or 190C if you are an international student). Then open the fridge and say ‘hi’ to your sleeping madeleines. Get your non-stick pan ready and
spray it with a thin layer of oil. Start to fill every madeleine mold with your batter using the spoon. Fill it to about ¾ of the mold to ensure a good appearance of your dessert. After all molds are filled, drop the pan on the table several times to avoid gas bubbles hidden in the batter. Your oven should be ready. Let’s start baking! Just put your madeleines into the oven and count around 5 minutes. Check the oven to see if your madeleines have a perfect circular rise on top or not. If not, leave them in for another one or two minutes depending on your oven temper. After your madeleines reach the perfect rise, take them out and off the mold as quick as you can (the hot pan will continue to heat the madeleines). Spray some confectioner sugar on your madeleine before serving. Here are your delicious, airy and buttery little cakes still hot and fresh! What’s better than having these for breakfast? Are you craving madeleines now?
from cornellian to international food entrepeneur text by victoria sadosky photos courtesy of george gellert
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his past summer, I participated in the internship program at Atalanta Corporation in Elizabeth, N.J., where I was a marketing intern for De Medici, one of Atalanta’s sister companies. Founded in 1945, Atalanta is the largest, privately owned food import company in the United States, and specializes in bringing in high quality products from more than 60 countries. George Gellert, shown on right, has been the Chairman of Atalanta since 1973, and is a prominent Cornell alumnus. Mr. Gellert received his BS, MBA and JD from Cornell University, and has been continuingly involved in his alma mater, serving on the Board of Trustees and various other committees. Mr. Gellert was also the second American businessman to be invited to China in the early 1970s to discuss the basis for a food importing relationship with the Chinese government. In 2001, he received the Ernest & Young “Entrepreneur of the Year� award, in addition to the Ellis Island Medal of Honor. Towards the end of my internship, I had the opportunity to sit down with Mr. Gellert and discuss the history of the food importing business, and some personal reflections about Atalanta and the global trade market.
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Can you talk about your experiences in China in the 1970s? The reason we went into China is China’s the largest pork producer of the world, and at that time, we were the major importer of pork in the United States. We brought all the pork in from Poland, Hungary, Romania, and there was a tremendous demand for pork in the United States. We were also in the seafood business and China produces a lot of seafood, and every year they have a fair, and so I was invited to a fair where they display all the products. We had a meeting, and one gentleman would be a translator. For our company, it was very important to buy something, so we imported garlic, frozen rabbits which we sold, but unfortunately to export pork, the factories had to be approved to US standards, and at that time, China was not approved. To this day, they are not exporting pork to the United States. I’ve had some very interesting experiences there. My wife was with me on one occasion, and I bought her a pair of shoes and she took a photograph. That night they [government officials] came to my room and they made my wife give them her film. Also a friend of mine from Denmark was there. He put his arm around a girl, in a friendly [way], and he had to leave the country, so they were very strict. In the early 1970s, China was like a different world. Today, we are doing a lot of business there. We are buying mandarin oranges, artichokes. It has become more modernized. At one time, China was considered very inexpensive, but prices now are increasing rapidly. In fact, there is this cookie factory which moved their headquarters to the Philippines because prices in China became too expensive.
Did you face any challenges importing food from other countries? This was a family business. My wife’s family had meat factories in Poland before the war, and they were selling their products here in the United States. When the government confiscated the factories, they came to my father-in-law, because he sold the product from his own factory, and they said, “look we need someone to market our product.” So we started marketing the product from the factories which were owned by the government, actually importing meat from the factories, and at that time, Poland was a communist country. One time the hams from Poland were on the dock here, and the longshoreman refused to unload them because it was a communist country. But through our contacts in Washington, we got President Eisenhower to make a speech. He said it was not up to our longshoreman to dictate the policy of the United States, and he forced the longshoreman to unload the hams. There was a right wing organization called the John Birch Society who would go to the stores and put stickers on the products saying “DO NOT BUY, COMMUNIST COUNTRY.” This was more in the South, and since we had people from Eastern Europe living in parts of the United States, the product did well in many areas of the East Coast.
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Also, once the walls fell down, people in the communist countries started eating for the first time, and they were exporting less, since the food was going to the people in those countries. So we had to expand our products to cheese, groceries, etc., as these meat items were staying in the home countries.
You have met a wide range of individuals in high places. Are there any anecdotes or thoughts you would like to share? There is an interesting story involving President Castro. When Batista was in charge, we used to bring in lobster tails from Cuba before the war, but then there was an embargo, so we could no longer bring in products. We had a factory in Nicaragua where we took the lobster tails and we pumped them with a formula, which was called Atalanta 77. By pumping them with polyphosphate we can get them to weigh 10 percent more, so say it would cost 10 dollars, but with our formula we got an extra 10 percent weight, so it’s really worth a dollar more. So I was at a cocktail party in 1970, and Mr. Castro asked me “Can you give us that formula?” And I didn’t even know how he knew about it. So I said we only give it to people we buy products from, and I didn’t want to give him technical advice, but it amazed me that the President of Cuba knew something about our techniques. Of all the foreign leaders, I think he was the smartest. I was really impressed with him. Today we buy the lobster tails from Nicaragua, but he knew what we were doing in Nicaragua and he wanted that formula.
Did Cornell play a significant part in helping you prepare to run a company like Atalanta? My father and three brothers went to Cornell. My three children and most of my nieces and nephews went to Cornell as well, and it gave me an excellent background. When we started the Cornell Extension Service, we didn’t know anything about farming. My father was originally in the dress business, and he decided he wanted to move upstate and the Cornell Extension Service gave us ideas how to build the whole business. This program taught people how to become farmers and how to produce products more efficiently. They came into our property and showed us how you build a chicken coup and raise chickens. Cornell then started the Food Distribution Program, part of agriculture economics. I was an agriculture economic major and I was the first student to be enrolled in the Food Distribution Program. I got a wealth of knowledge from the graduate students because they were all leaders in the food industry and they were taking courses at Cornell. So in addition to learning from the professors, I learned from the students, and all the major supermarkets and food processors went to Cornell to take this Food Distribution Program, and I convinced this professor to get into this program, even though I was an undergrad. In my senior year, I double registered in the business school, and in my fifth year, I double registered in the law school, so I really got nine years of education in seven. I then started the business with my father-in-law, and he retired in 1975, and we are doing close to a billion dollars. 35 fall 2014Spring 201434
the art of the burger
by evy li photo by clarice hanmal
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an an ordinary hamburger become true art? Do everyday objects trivialize the very idea of monumental art? From the classical era to contemporary period, art constantly emphasizes the existing and increasingly entangling connections between everything, including food and aesthetics. Sounds fascinating right? Now let’s see some examples of how artists turn a hamburger into a meaningful art piece!
Vincent Huang, Polar Bear Burger, 2014 Two months ago, Taiwanese artist Vincent Huang brought his artwork, Polar Bear Burger, to our Johnson Museum. As an artist concerned about global warming, Mr. Huang is trying to tell us that eating hamburger meat indirectly emits a huge unnecessary amount of CO2 into the atmosphere, making innocent polar bears the first group of victims.
Jørgen Leth, Andy Warhol Eating a Hamburger from 66 Scenes from America, 1982 Andy Warhol is famous for his Campbell’s Soup art. He is obsessed with the interactions of the most ordinary daily objects, like food. There is a short film of him eating a hamburger – an artwork which condenses the life of the people at that time, mirroring the values of the American consumer economy. Anyone could be the person eating the burger in the film. Thus, he is trying to prove his statement, “everyone can be famous for 15 minutes because of mass media,” through this simple act.
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Claes Oldenburg, Floor Burger, 1962 Oldenburg is one of the most serious artists you could ever find; however, he has also created some of the most fun artwork. His works reflect the life that we live in, buttwisted and exaggerated in a grotesque way. The works are sweet but coarse, just like life itself. This huge hamburger also provides us with the inspiration that everything has the potential to be art, including food!
Giuseppe Arcimboldo, Vertumnus, 1590 Vegetarian? Don’t worry! Here is an enjoyable meatless painting that has a much more pure aesthetic purpose than the modern art pieces shown above. Created in 1590, this work is a portrait of the Holy Roman Emperor Rudolf II re-imagined as Vertumnus, the god of seasons. The fact that he is made of flowers and fruits symbolizes a harmony between his kingdom and nature.
l’arte del gelato: fall favorite text by paula cai photos by paula cai and victoria sadosky
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raving an authentic taste of the best gelato in Manhattan? Go to L’Arte del Gelato, located in Chelsea Market throughout the year. Decorated with various pink and orange artworks and paintings, the small, boutique gelato store has been the most attractive spot in Chelsea Market. People line up for their traditional Italian flavors, as well as their fresh, seasonal flavors. As I went there during fall break, pumpkins had been the main theme throughout Chelsea Market. I certainly tried their seasonal flavor of pumpkin gelato on a crispy, long and skinny waffle cone. I would say it was the best gelato I have ever had! The gelato was kept at the right temperature so it retained its original shape, and did not fall off the cone or melt quickly. However, when you licked it, you could still feel how soft and creamy it was inside. As it gladly melted in my mouth, I could feel the genuine and creamy pumpkin flavor diffusing on my palate. So gratifying!
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A LOOK INTO MICHELIN 3-STAR RESTAURANTS IN HONG KONG text and photos by jess wu
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ong Kong, Hong Kong! In Chinese, the word Hong Kong means the ‘fragrant harbor,’ which reflects the flourishing and fragrant trading business that took place over a century ago. The active trading business brought in numerous immigrants and different cultures into Hong Kong, which is how the epicureal culture in Hong Kong formed. One hundred years later, Hong Kong continues to act as one of the most important global commerce centers, ranked No. 3 after London and NYC. In Hong Kong, you can find food from almost every culture. From authentic, local street food for less than $1 to elaborate, fine dining for $500 per person, you will be able to satisfy your palate, no matter what food you are looking for! Today, let’s take a tour of the three Michelin 3-star restaurants in Hong Kong.
Stop No.1: 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana Opened by the ‘King of White Truffles,’ Italian Chef Umberto Bombana, in 2010, 8½ Otto e Mezzo is the first Italian restaurant that received Michelin 3-star recognition outside of Italy. Combining authentic Italian cuisine with inspiration from other culture’s delicious cuisines, Chef Umberto Bombana crafts a unique Italian food journey. I had the most delicious black truffle ice cream at 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo. The house-made vanilla ice cream is well incorporated with grated black truffle to ensure every bite is
infused with a truffle fragrance. The ice cream ball is gently coated by a layer of black cookie crumbs, which forms an interesting texture contrast. To add some airiness to the dense ice ball, a scoop of freshly whipped cream is added to the bottom. There are over 10 slices of fresh black truffle surrounding the ice cream, which not only adds flavor and fragrance, but also texture. The red tuna is also amazing. Although the exterior is seared and has a crisp texture, the interior of the tuna is still soft and melts immediately as it touches your tongue!
Stop No.2: Lung King Heen Michelin 3-star recognition is usually related with Western or Japanese food, while Chinese food is usually associated with family-style casual dining. However, Chef Chan proves to the world that when Chinese food goes into fine dining, it really rocks. Lung King Heen is the first Michelin 3-star Chinese Restaurant in the world. Gourmets from all over the world fly to Hong Kong to visit this restaurant (to get a window seat, you have to make a reservation half a year in advance). Lung King Heen is most famous for its delicate, creative dim sums and also steamed fish. While the food is elaborate and every bite is a piece of art, the average check is only about 50 dollars for lunch! The abalone puff is one of their most famous dim sums. There’s a whole braised, fully flavored, and tender abalone ‘sitting’ right in the center of a delicate puff, which has more than 20 layers! When you bite into the abalone puff, the tender and juicy abalone first hits your tongue, and then the crisp and buttery puff follows. The symphony of tender seafood and pastry will make you want to dance in front of their floor-to-ceiling sea view window! Their black truffle dumpling is also a superstar! Happy people make food that provides happiness and Chef Chan
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proves that this saying is true, always being nice to the staff. As his friend, I am constantly amazed by his optimism and the smile that is always on his face. I am sure you will taste his happiness through his delicious dishes.
Stop No.3: L’atelier de Joël Robuchon L’atelier de Joël Robuchon is my favorite restaurant, no exaggeration. It never fails to amaze me, sometimes even into tears, with the wonderful pieces of edible art. Chef Robuchon was titled the ‘Chef of the Century’ by the guide Gault Millau in 1989 and he has owned 28 Michelin starred restaurants around the world. His gift for cooking is fully expressed in his dishes. From the biggest breadbasket you have ever seen, to the romantic dessert cart that has over 12 kinds of dessert, you will enjoy every second you spend in this wonderland. Robuchon’s breadbasket is simply extraordinary. From rustic rolls to rich brioche, Robuchon’s bread will definitely challenge your preconceived notions of how delicious bread can be. I always order the black truffle dumpling. Among all the truffle dumplings I have tasted, the ones at L’atelier de Joël Robuchon are the best (in taste, texture, balance, presentation). The dumpling looks normal from the outside, but a whole new world is laid out in front of you as you bite into the dumpling, which has a generous portion of lobster and layers of truffle. The creamy sauce of the dumpling brings out the freshness of the lobster and the unique fragrance of the truffle. A glass of Gewurztraminer white wine will add one more layer of happiness to this awesome dish!
Dear foodies, thank you so much for finishing my short tour of Michelin 3-star restaurants in Honk Kong! I hope that you have enjoyed the journey and will start planning a gourmet trip to Hong Kong - I am excited about the amazing deliciousness that is waiting for you there! fall 2014Spring 201438
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from shanghai to new york Text by Michelle Chen Photos Courtesy of Creative Commons and Jieyu Chen
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o matter where you are from, New York City can always satisfy your food cravings! When I spent my first summer in the city crafting my very own tasty road, I experienced the familiar flavors of my lovely hometown, Shanghai. The cuisine variety of New York not only allowed me to taste authentic dishes from Shanghai, but also gave me me a chance to sample other cuisines. First time visiting New York City? Overwhelmed by the ocean of cuisines? Try my tasty road!
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Burgers: Shake Shack Having opened in 2004 in the original Shake Shack location (in Madison Square Park), this popular chain has made its mark in the city, continually expanding. Beloved for their signature “ShackBurger,” in addition to their thick and creamy milkshakes, daily commuters and travelers can’t miss the amazing burgers. High-quality meat is the key to making their burgers taste juicy and fresh. Unlike most ground beef sold by some brands, Shake Shack promises 100% natural Angus beef without any hormones or antibiotics for their signature burgers. Even if you are dieting, taking a bite of their “Shroom Burger” is not a sin at all. Let its crisp-fried mushroom topped with moist tomato and lettuce reward the effort you have made so far! My Favorite: Single ShackBurger paired with Fries and Strawberry lemonade
Asian: Ootoya & Nori Nori New York is filled with authentic Japanese food. From flavorful ramen to assorted sushi, New York is so ambitious that it embraces all the possibilities you can imagine about Japan cuisine. Obsessed with Japanese culture? Then Ootoya should stay in your top list forever. The owner’s genuine attitude and passion for integrating culture with cuisine is demonstrated by every single detail, from the menu to decorations. Persuaded enough? Go for lunch to experience Ootoya in full swing! People are constantly walking in with their professional attire, where they sit at the bar, enjoy lunch boxes, and share good company. Who said time never slows in this metropolis? With two locations throughout the city, Ootoya never lacks customers. Make sure you get in the line early! My Favorite: Salmon Saikyo—Grilled Atlantic Salmon marinated in Ootoya Special Saikyo Miso Lacking Ootoya’s prime locations, Nori Nori is situated on an inconspicuous street in Flushing, but its customer traffic is on par with Ootoya’s. As a modern buffet-style restaurant, Nori
Nori comprises a wide range of choices—Japanese, Chinese, and Korean. Quantity and quality, that’s the perfect balance at Nori Nori. What’s more appealing is that the restaurant only charges around 20 dollars for lunch and 30 dollars for dinner! Grab your food buddy and awaken for the excitement of an ample brunch! My Favorite: Peanut Noodle with Shrimp Salad
Belgian: Le Pain Quotidien One of the beauties of Le Pain Quotidien lies in its openfaced sandwich, called a “tartine”. Instead of covering sandwich fillings with another piece of bread, Le Pain Quotidien breaks the traditional rule for sandwiches—each piece of bread has its own fresh vegetables, fruits, meat or fish, separately presented on a wooden cutting board. The simple ingredients give birth to these beautifully presented dishes. To express simplicity in a sophisticated way probably is what Le Pain Quotidien strives for. Their baked goods and homemade desserts are also worth trying! Having numerous locations throughout the city, it is always a perfect spot for a casual breakfast or lunch. My Favorite: Smoked Salmon Tartine paired with Lemonade Iced Tea
Italian: Eataly Shopping while eating, that’s what Eataly is about! A magic combination of an indoor food market with seven sit-down restaurants makes Eataly the perfect place to eat. The food market contains numerous types of pastas, tomatoes, wines, and, of course, sauces. Positioned next to the food market, each restaurant cooks what Eataly sells in store, meaning that ingredients in your dishes are available to you as well! You could spend a whole week in Eataly and not sample all its offerings. When they say “Eat Italy”, they really do not exaggerate, do they? My Favorite: Slow Roasted Beef Rib at Manzo Ristorante
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healthy eating - how easy is it? Text and Photos by Clarice Hanmal What is the Wellness Program, and what have you done in this program? The Cornell Wellness Program is available to staff, faculty, and retirees and is supported through our human resources department. This is our mission: The Cornell Wellness Program provides staff, faculty, retirees, and their spouses/partners with diverse opportunities that foster joy, balance, and well-being. We focus on fitness, nutrition and health. I am a registered dietitian and the director of the program. My nutrition duties include one-on-one counseling, teaching nutrition and weight management classes to employees, and teaching cooking classes.
Do you think people are trying to eat healthier? Why? I think some people are trying to eat healthier, some are not. Plus, people have very different definitions of what healthy means to them. Many people are trying to lose weight. Some want to feel better, and others are trying to keep healthy for the future.
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veryone knows that eating healthy is the best way to prevent illness and keep in shape. However, the need for quick meals and our preconceived notions of the taste associated with healthy food become excuses for not changing our diet. We invited Beth McKinney, director of the Wellness Program at Cornell, to discuss healthy eating. Beth McKinney received her bachelor’s degree from Cornell University and her master’s degree in health education from SUNY Cortland. In addition, Beth is a certified health education specialist. With previous experience in both clinical and community nutrition, Beth specializes in nutrition education and behavioral change. Through the Wellness Program, she offers cooking classes, weight management programs, and one-on-one nutrition counseling. Beth also enjoys giving presentations on stress management, smoking cessation, and humor. She tries to fulfill the Wellness Program’s mission by bringing joy, balance, and wellbeing to the Cornell community.
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What is eating healthy in your opinion? Put simply, eating healthy means trying to consume whole foods, less processed foods, and a variety of fruits and vegetables. Most people do not get enough fruits and vegetables.
How easy nowadays?
is
eating
healthy
Forces are working against us – restaurants do not focus on health, they focus on volume. Advertisements try to convince us to eat convenience foods and fast foods. And we live in a culture of food where people’s lives revolve around eating and what to eat next. Some people may find eating healthy easy, but for most I think it’s a challenge.
Do you think it is possible to eat healthy if you do not have time to cook or do not like to cook? Yes. You can easily find “food group” foods that do not need cooking. For example, you can eat chick peas out of the can. You can buy bread or boil rice. You can even eat oats raw. It might not be fancy, but it is possible to eat healthfully.
What is your recommendation for those who want to improve their diet? Focus on increasing fruits and vegetables. Here’s my 3-food-group rule. You can call it a meal if it has 3 food groups. So when you come home exhausted for dinner, Cheerios, milk, and a banana for dinner is great.
Do you think food can be healthy and tasty at the same time? Of course.
What is your favorite healthy food? I don’t have a favorite. Although this time of year, I enjoy pumpkin – especially Martha Stewart’s recipe for pumpkin flan.
Beth McKinney specializes in nutrition counseling, weight loss, healthy eating, diabetes and cholesterol reduction, digestive issues, behavior change techniques and life coaching. Contact Beth at bm20@cornell.edu. fall 2014Spring 201442
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