2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UK
THE HILL OF CORTON, WITH THE WOODED BOIS DE CORTON AT THE TOP
"The 2019 vintage wasn't abundant, but it was grand. It combines the density, breadth and charm of the 2015s with the svelte, bright and vibrant spark of our 2017s." THIBAULT JACQUET, March 2021
A TALE OF TWO CORTON-CHARLEMAGNES As of this vintage, Domaine Bonneau du Martray has leased 2.8 hectares of its total 9.5 hectares of Corton-Charlemagne to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.
4
This eagerly anticipated move will no doubt provide ample opportunity for opinion and contrast. It will also open a fascinating window on the terroir of Corton-Charlemagne. Unique in so many ways – a rare white grand cru north of the city of Beaune, the only west-facing grand cru slopes in the Côte d’Or – and, perhaps for these reasons, something apart, ‘other’… In January 2017, Domaine Bonneau du Martray was acquired by US businessman E. Stanley Kroenke, making him only the fifth owner in its 1200+ year history. The management team comprises Armand de Maigret and Thibault Jacquet, who spend their time between Burgundy and California, home of Mr Kroenke’s Screaming Eagle, The Hilt and Jonata estates.
The team on the ground is thriving under the leadership of vineyard manager Fabien Esthor (since 2003) and winemaker Emmanuel Hautus (since 2011). Innovation in the cellar continues: traditional barrels are now supplemented by a sandstone amphora, a dolium (earthenware vessel), a concrete egg and a glass globe. Other recent initiatives include phone-scannable labels, not only providing information on the bottle in your hands but peace of mind as to its authenticity. The refreshing inquisitiveness and a constant striving to refine the approach sets this dynamic team in good stead for the future.
GUY SEDDON April 2021
The village of Pernand-Vergelesses seen from the hill of Corton
5
6
WINEMAKER EMMANUEL HAUTUS
HISTORY Through the best and worst of times, there is a reassuring permanence to an estate which can trace its origins directly to the Emperor Charlemagne in the year 775. In compensation for the destruction of their Abbey by the Saracens, the Emperor Charlemagne gifted what is now the domaine’s Corton-Charlemagne vineyard to the monks of Saulieu in 775. The Church owned the property for just over a thousand years until the French Revolution, when it was acquired by René Bonneau du Martray’s family, descendants of Nicolas Rolin, who founded the Hospices de Beaune in 1443. In the 19th Century, the Bonneau du Martray family controlled almost 24 hectares of vines, including the whole of the Charlemagne climat. René Bonneau du Martray, born in 1886, left the estate to his niece, Comtesse Alice le Bault de la Morinière, whose husband Jean took over in 1969. Jean began the estate’s renaissance, enlarging and improving the cuverie and cellars and introducing estate bottling and temperature control. Jean’s son, Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière, joined the domaine in 1994. Highly respected for his wines and his research into the intricacies of the hill of Corton, JeanCharles began the process of conversion to biodynamics.
7
THE VINEYARD At the heart of the Charlemagne climat, the holdings span En Charlemagne on the hill’s northern Pernand-Vergelesses side and Le Charlemagne on the southern Aloxe-Corton side.
8
Following the lease of 2.8 hectares of Corton-Charlemagne to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, the area of Chardonnay in domaine production is now 6.7 hectares. Added to the 1.6 hectares of Pinot Noir (Corton Grand Cru), the holdings in 2019 total 8.3 hectares.*
An upper section called Rollin Haut has poor soils, bringing mineral tension and acidity to the final blend. A mid-slope parcel, Grande Plante, confers a more generous, fullfruited character, whilst Les Latours, on the lower slopes, contributes density and viscosity.
The only west-facing grand cru in the Côte d’Or, CortonCharlemagne’s vines get full exposure to the afternoon sun. This unique aspect is accentuated by the heatreflective white marl soil. The free-draining higher plots are protected from the wind by the hilltop wood, whilst cold humid air passes through the valley at the foot of the slope.
The earlier ripening lower plots tend to be picked first, the upper ones last. The 40-strong harvest team typically takes a week to bring in the domaine’s grapes (slightly longer in 2019 – 6th to 18th September). Each plot is vinified separately. Even mid-replanting programme, the average vine age is over 50 years. Yields are low, 40 hectolitres per hectare (hl/ha) for the white and under 30 hl/ha for the red on average.
The hill of Corton, with its voluptuous curves and generous woodland at its crest, some 300 metres above sea level, has a bedrock of limestone, overlain by Jurassic soil. The upper slopes are mostly white marl, with the proportion of iron and clay increasing as you descend. Describing how different points on the slope influence the wines’ characters, Thibault Jacquet singled out three of the 15 plots, which he describes as “microclimate typicities”.
No herbicides or fertilisers are used and yields are kept in check by severe pruning in the early growing season. There is no green harvest, the domaine prioritising rigorous debudding (évasivage) and removal of the lateral shoots (entrecœurs) in early spring. Biodynamic trials started in 2004, with certification obtained for the Pinot Noir in 2012 and the Chardonnay in 2014.
*However, one of the three plots of Pinot Noir was grubbed up in 2018 and will be replanted next spring, meaning the Corton Grand Cru 2019 comes from less than a hectare.
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU
CORTON GRAND CRU
Grape Variety Chardonnay
Grape Variety Pinot Noir
Vineyard Holding 2019 6.7 hectares
Vineyard Holding 2019 1.59 hectares
Average Age of Vines 57 Years
Average Age of Vines 55 Years
Average Yield 40 hl/ha
Average Yield 30 hl/ha
9
Charlemagne
Corton-Charlemagne du domaine
Corton du domaine Map credit: Domaine Bonneau du Martray
THE CELLAR CHARDONNAY GRAPES Chardonnay grapes are brought in from the vineyards in small, slatted crates to prevent them from being crushed and starting to ferment. Upon arrival in the vat room, the grapes are lightly crushed then pressed to extract their phenolic substance, as well as enabling a gentler pressing. After settling, fermentation takes place, mainly in oak barrels (30% new), following which the wine spends 12 months on its lees without stirring. As mentioned, various ageing vessels are employed.
10
Parcels are vinified individually to maximise the typicity of each, then blended by the cellarmaster. The aim, as described by Thibault Jacquet, is to achieve a perfect harmony between the three microclimates of Corton-Charlemagne. Each barrel is regularly monitored until the first racking. The first blend is between plots of the same microclimate. The wines mature in a protective environment, in vats on fine lees for a second winter. At the end of this period, a second racking separates the wine from its lees. The wine then rests for a month before bottling in late May. This occurs “during a reductive phase, a waning moon with a small tidal coefficient.”
PINOT NOIR GRAPES The main difference for the red wine process is that the Pinot Noir grapes are 100% destemmed and then meticulously sorted. In 2019, the best bunches were hand destemmed, then vinified in terracotta amphora for six weeks before blending. This new approach is key to the style of the Corton Grand Cru 2019 - and indeed the direction in which future vintages are headed - serving to lift the aromas and uncover a newfound lusciousness.
11
THE COURTYARD BIODYNAMIC PREPARATIONS AT THE DOMAINE
12
The gently sloping hill of Corton
2019 VINTAGE NOTES “2019 is a crucial year for the domaine and the wines correspond exactly to what we want to do with this terroir. This gives us some comfort considering the low number of barrels – half of a normal vintage…” THIBAULT JACQUET, March 2021
A snappy summary below from the estate. Sometimes less is more... See the general C&B vintage report here. • • • •
Autumn: dry and sunny, after the last 2018s had been harvested Winter: mild and wet, then dry and cold Spring: cold and wet, then dry and hot Summer: dry and scorching
Domaine Bonneau du Martray harvested under blue skies with moderate temperatures, starting on 6th September and ending on the 18th. Thibault Jacquet described the crop as “a harvest of small, concentrated bunches of golden berries with thick skins; good phenolic ripeness and nice balance but a yield unfortunately once again limited.” The extent to which 2019 marks a milestone at the domaine cannot be overstated. In a sense, it is the vintage in which the new ownership's vision becomes clear. Thibault states as much: "We took the opportunity to stop time for a moment, look back and reflect on the past 20 years. Every aspect of our work has been evaluated with the sole question: How can it be improved?"
13
2019 TASTING NOTES CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU
CORTON GRAND CRU
All the aromatic refinement you dare to hope for in Corton-Charlemagne – the chalky minerality, the white flowers, the hint of struck match – then also a generosity of white peach fruit, apricot and glimpses of grapefruit. Quite simply, smelling this puts a smile on your face... The palate is laden with delectably ripe, even fleshy stone-fruit, with honeysuckle richness. It revels in the fine chalky-mineral granularity of Corton-Charlemagne, a grippy sense of dry extract buoyed by bright, steely acidity. 30% new oak for 12 months with no bâtonnage.
A bright, pure-fruited nose of dark cherry and wild strawberry, with airy herbal spices – thyme, rosemary, aniseed and fresh mint leaf. The nimble palate’s deft raspberry flavours are picked out by orange zest and tangerine rind, raised on an arc of fresh, taut acidity. Fine tannins exert the merest grip on the supple mid-palate, which finds a reassuring depth, chalky mineral tension lingering on the long finish. In 2019, the best bunches were hand destemmed, then vinified in terracotta amphora for six weeks before blending.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2030+ £1,485.00/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £1,495.00/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2034 £895.00/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
14
Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. Wines are scored out of 20. Customers seem to like it and it has the benefit of simplicity.
To Order LONDON
020 7265 2430 EDINBURGH
We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine.
01875 321 921 EMAIL
sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.
A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
15
16
RECOMMENDED DRINKING DATES Almost without exception our revised drinking dates are merely a reminder of what we recommended upon original release. We do not say that you cannot drink wines older if you wish, merely that we cannot continue to guarantee them if you ignore our recommendations! REVISED DRINKING DATES Vintage
Corton-Charlemagne
Corton
2000
Now
Now
2001
Now
Now
2002
Now
Now
2003
Now
Now
2004
Now
Now
2005
Now
Now
2006
Now
Now
2007
Now
Now
2008
Now
Now
2009
Now
Now
2010
Now
2016 - 2025
2011
Now
See Below
2012
Now
Now - 2023
2013
Now - 2023
See Below
2014
Now - 2024
See Below
2015
Now - 2023
See Below
2016
See Below
See Below
2017
See Below
See Below
Vintage
Corton-Charlemagne
Corton
2000
From 2006
From 2005
2001
From 2005/6
From 2005
2002
From 2008
From 2006
2003
From 2007
From 2008
2004
From 2012
—
2005
From 2015
—
2006
From 2014
From 2014
2007
2012 - 2015
2013 - 2015
2008
2014 - 2017
2014 - 2020
2009
2014 - 2018
2014 - 2020
2010
2017 - 2020
2018 - 2025
2011
2016 - 2019
2016 - 2022
2012
2017 - 2020
2017 - 2021
2013
2018 - 2022
2018 - 2022
2014
2019 - 2023
2019 - 2024
2015
2018 - 2022
2020 - 2025
2016
2020 - 2024
2021 - 2026
2017
2021 - 2028+
2022 - 2032
ORIGINAL DRINKING DATES
17
18
CONTACT US LONDON 1 Thomas More Street London E1W 1YZ T +44 (0)20 7265 2400 sales@corneyandbarrow.com
NORTH OF ENGLAND Sedbury Stables, Sedbury Hall Richmond, North Yorkshire DL10 5LQ T +44 (0)1748 828 640 sedburyorders@corneyandbarrow.com
EAST ANGLIA Belvoir House, High Street Newmarket, Suffolk CB8 8DH T +44 (0)1638 600 000 newmarket@corneyandbarrow.com
EDINBURGH Oxenfoord Castle by Pathhead Midlothian, Scotland EH37 5UB T +44 (0)1875 321 921 edinburgh@corneyandbarrow.com
AYR 8 Academy Street, Ayr Ayrshire, Scotland KA7 1HT T +44 (0)1292 267 000 ayr@corneyandbarrow.com
FACEBOOK @corneyandbarrow
TWITTER @corneyandbarrow
INSTAGRAM @corneyandbarrow
www.corneyandbarrow.com
19
www.corneyandbarrow.com