CHARLES LACHAUX 2019 VINTAGE EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UK
CHARLES LACHAUX 2019 VINTAGE
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CHARLES LACHAUX 2019 VINTAGE
INTRODUCTION It is hard to believe that this is only the second vintage of Charles Lachaux’s personal project – it feels like it has been a staple of our Burgundy line-up for much longer.
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In part, that is because we have represented exclusively the family’s Domaine ArnouxLachaux since the 2016 vintage in the UK. Although Charles’ small-volume négociant label is a separate entity, there are naturally points of similarity: the winemaker (obviously), the cellars – these wines are made at Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux – and, most importantly, the approach. Charles’ wines are all about purity and elegance, as captured wonderfully by his wife, Louise LachauxVoarick’s label designs. They are vinified in whole bunches – 100%, for all wines – and use little-tono new oak (none at all as of next vintage, 2020). In focusing on the micro-details and in his quest for terroir expression, Charles seeks out plots planted at high density with low yielding old vines, worked naturally. The distinctive long ‘arches’ into which his Aligoté vines are trained are fast becoming Charles’ signature, both here and at the domaine (where this method is now used throughout). Despite being the exclusive UK agent, quantities are tiny – just three barrels of some of these were made – so please get your orders in promptly!
GUY SEDDON March 2021
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CHARLES ATTENDING TO HIS VINE ARCHES
CHARLES LACHAUX 2019 VINTAGE
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THE WINES Alongside last year’s Bourgogne Rouge and GevreyChambertin, there are three new reds this year: a Côte de Nuits-Villages Aux Montagnes from Comblanchien and two rather grand premiers crus, Nuits-SaintGeorges 1er Cru Aux Boudots and Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots. The sole white, the Bourgogne Aligoté Les Champs d'Argent, is also worth singling out. It is owned by Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, meaning Charles has free rein with these vines. It is the latest (and greatest?) example of high quality Aligoté to emerge from the new generation in Burgundy, who are helping us to rediscover the joys of this overlooked grape variety. In addition to 100% whole bunch fermentation, no sulphur dioxide is used during winemaking (just a little at bottling). The 2019s were all bottled in October 2020.
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CHARLES LACHAUX 2019 VINTAGE
2019
VINTAGE NOTES “Even with the dry, hot weather we had in 2019, the wines carry a surprising freshness and precision which enhances the details and characteristics of each appellation. And that is something we wouldn’t necessarily have expected.” CHARLES LACHAUX, FEBRUARY 2021 8 A short, dry 2018-19 winter meant the soil water reserves were not replenished as in the 2018 and subsequent 2020 vintages, sowing the seeds for a low yielding, concentrated year. January to March saw just 105mm of rainfall in 2019, compared to 300mm in 2018 (and 160mm in 2020). Rainfall during the crucial growing months of April to August totalled 240mm in 2019, which is below average (275mm in 2018, for example), but not drastically so. The moisture was evenly dispersed across the season, without episodes of heavy rain, although there were significant variations from village to village. February was unusually mild, over 2˚C above the long term average, with a record high temperature on the 27th of the month. This woke the vines early and allowed them to get a head start during a fine March. Colder, more typical temperatures returned from 5th April, with the first of five frosts over the next month.
A period of nervous vigilance, requiring the full antifrost arsenal of portable burners, wind turbines and vine coverings. These low temperatures made for a tricky bud-burst, hitting potential volumes and ultimately resulting in widespread millerandage, whereby small, thickskinned grapes are formed. Côte d’Or Pinot Noir yields were 25% below 2018 and 11.5% below the five year average. Flowering was relatively late, mostly occurring in June. June and July were intermittently very hot, with heat spikes over 40˚C at the end of each month, resulting in some grilled bunches. August was cooler, with some rain which eased through the final ripening, before early September warmed up again, in time for a leisurely picking window.
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Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
CHARLES LACHAUX 2019 VINTAGE
TASTING NOTES
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BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ LES CHAMPS D'ARGENT
CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES AUX MONTAGNES
This parcel of old vine Aligoté, a quarter of which is 80 years old, is owned by Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux. It has never been bottled under the domaine’s label (all of the domaine wines being red). Charles allows the vine canes to grow long, arching them into an elaborate canopy, a painstaking technique. Other than Domaine d’Auvenay, he says he is the only grower to do this with Aligoté.
This new addition to Charles’ line-up is from a parcel rich in limestone on the high slopes of Comblanchien, at the southern extreme of the Côte de Nuits. The 60 year old vines have been worked organically for 20 years. Enticing brambly forest fruit aromas, with crystalline red berries and a rose petal delicacy. The darker berries of the palate are bolstered by a firm tannic chassis which remains admirably light on its feet, chalky minerality persisting on the long finish. 14 barrels have been made.
Bright apricot, white peach and crunchy green apple on the almost shockingly intense nose. The palate is substantial, brilliantly pure, laden with peach and apricot fruit and weighty dry extract. Taut, zippy acidity sustains the flavours on the long finish. Only the second vintage of this wine and even better this year – Burgundy has a new Aligoté of reference! The yield was 34 hectolitres per hectare.
Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2027 £240.00/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026 £215.00/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BOURGOGNE ROUGE LA CROIX BLANCHE
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN EN RENIARD
This comes from 1.2 hectares of vines in Vosne-Romanée, worked by a young vigneron who Charles advises closely. Everything is trimmed and ploughed by hand. Bright ruby colour. The nose is joyfully ripe, red cherry and blackberry lifted by pithy, zesty orange. The succulent raspberry fruited palate is medium bodied and already attractively open. This is intended to hit the ground running and will do exactly that.
En Reniard lies on the Morey-Saint-Denis side of GevreyChambertin, east of Charmes-Chambertin. Charles sources this from a tiny plot of 40-50 year-old vines., enough for just three barrels. A classy, cashmere-clad nose of silky redcurrant and blackberry fruit, with just-so exotic spice. The palate is sweetly pliant on the attack, quickly revealing a fine tannic framework and poised acidity. Crystalline and refined, this will age gracefully.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2028
£145.00/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£350.00/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1ER CRU AUX BOUDOTS Boudots is a cherished vineyard within Nuits-St-Georges, located on the border of Vosne-Romanée, adjacent to Malconsorts. The vines in this plot are 50-60 years old. Dark and imposing on the nose, with a brooding, smoky swagger, we have clearly stepped up to premier cru here. The palate has a gratifyingly sucrosity, intense raspberry and strawberry flavours framed by sweetly fruit-coated tannins which exert a fine grip on the finish. Elegantly rendered but no shrinking violet, an impressive wine. Three and a half barrels were made, one of which was new oak Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2035 £595.00/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
VOSNE-ROMANÉE 1ER CRU LES SUCHOTS This parcel of 60-70 year old vines is very close to Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux’s holding, 20 metres or so away. A complex, perfumed nose of sweet and savoury spices, rose petals, orange zest, dried herbs and tea leaves. The palate reverberates with energy, the sucroseladen raspberry fruit complemented by supple tannins. Deft and with natural charm, effortless. Quite a scoop to add a Suchots to this line-up and Charles has done it proud. Just three barrels were produced, one of which was new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18+ Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2035 £825.00/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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CHARLES LACHAUX 2019 VINTAGE
To Order LONDON
020 7265 2430 EDINBURGH
01875 321 921 sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
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