2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UK
The Clos, with its distinctive north-south row alignment.
“It was an honour to have this terroir in my hands.” Alessandro Noli, March 2021
Photo credit - Clos de Tart
THE NEXT CHAPTER Purchased in 2018 by the Pinault family’s Artémis Domaines, the next chapter in the nine century story of Clos de Tart starts here. Winemaker Alessandro Noli’s whirlwind arrival at the domaine in March 2019, amid the final stages of the 2018 vintage and the commencement of major building works, made for a hectic first few months. It was not until the 2018 vintage was safely in vat that he could draw breath and turn his attention to 2019. This vintage is his and the Artémis team’s statement of intent, the first opportunity to make Clos de Tart as they envisioned it. No pressure then.
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Having visited both during and after completion of the now-gleaming cuverie (vat room), it is incredible what has been achieved in a short space of time. The noisy, dust-filled courtyard has regained its tranquillity and the cuverie’s gleaming furnishings have an impressive air of permanence. If the slick Artémis Domaines team can achieve the same feat with the wine, the sky is apparently the limit. Run by Managing Director Frédéric Engerer, this French wine group’s enviable collection also includes Château Latour, Domaine d’Eugénie and Château Grillet. With the acquisition of Clos de Tart, the largest of Burgundy’s grands crus monopoles, they became only the fourth owner since the estate belonged to the nuns of Notre-Dame de Tart in the 12th century. The growing recognition of Clos de Tart since our first vintage as exclusive UK agent in 2007 has been meteoric. Under the supremely competent team of Frédéric Engerer, Sales & Marketing Director Jean Garandeau and winemaker Alessandro Noli, the Clos has now arrived. As Jean mentions in his video (link on page 11 below), the domaine is also releasing to us a very few cases of the wonderful 2010 vintage. We will offer these later in the year.
GUY SEDDON May 2021
Photo credit - Clos de Tart
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Photo credit - Clos de Tart
HISTORY Today’s Clos de Tart was acquired in 1141 by the Cistercian nunnery of Nôtre-Dame de Tart. Originally called La Forge, the wall around the vineyard was built in the 15th century, entitling it to be called a clos. Clos de Tart was confiscated from the Church following the 1789 French Revolution and in 1791 acquired uncontested at auction by local wine merchant Nicolas-Joseph Marey. At the same auction the Marey family, later Marey-Monge, bought the entire Romanée-Saint-Vivant vineyard. The second change in ownership, in 1932, took place against a backdrop of global depression. Clos de Tart was bought by the Mommessin family, again at auction, for 400,000 francs. The Mommessins ran a successful négociant house in Mâcon, which was eventually sold to Boisset in the 1990s. Jules Lavalle’s 1855 Plan Topographique of the Côte d’Or named one Tête de Cuvée vineyard in Morey-Saint-Denis: Clos de Tart. In part thanks to this, Clos de Tart was granted Burgundy’s highest status in the grand cru decree of 1939. Following the bestowal of grand cru status in 1939, the Clos’ wall was extended to include some adjoining vines. In 1965-6, an additional 0.278 hectares was added from Bonnes-Mares: vines which, despite being in Chambolle-Musigny, were within the walls of the Clos.
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THE VINEYARD Clos de Tart is the only grand cru monopole in Morey-Saint-Denis. Behind the white limestone walls of the domaine, sloping up and away from the Route des Grands Crus, are the 7.53 hectares of Clos de Tart. The gently sloping vineyard faces east, making it something of an anomaly in the village. The vines run north-south, perpendicular to the slope rather than up and down. As well as giving a unique sun exposure, this protects against erosion. Although this is one contiguous vineyard, the soil composition varies greatly, as can be seen from the various plots in the map opposite. These are vinified as separate cuvées. They are blended around a month before bottling. The clay-limestone soils come from three distinct geological eras.
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The first soil type is calcaires à entroques, loose limestonerich fossilised marine animals. Second is white marl, a deep layer of which runs through the mid-slope section. Finally, there is a layer of very hard, compacted Prémeaux limestone. In the past, the cuvées have changed every year, but there is some correlation with these soil types.
The average vine age is over 60 years, with some vines being over 100 years old. The domaine has a nursery at the bottom of the village which provides new vines when replanting is necessary. Planting density is high: 11,000 vines per hectare on average, with the younger vines having been planted at 12,500. The resulting competition for nutrients encourages the roots to dig deeper. Only the five best bunches per vine are retained during green harvesting in August. The Clos has practised organic viticulture since 2015, with 2018 being the first vintage to have been certified organic. It was also certified biodynamic in 2019, having introduced biodynamic practices in 2016. Production tends to average 23-30 hectolitres per hectare (hl/ha), although recent vintages have been relatively plentiful. 2016 was the domaine’s largest crop since 1999, at 35 hl/ha. 2017 and 2018 both came in at 32 hl/ha and 2019 at 30 hl/ha.
The domaine buildings and the church seen from the vineyard, looking south towards Bonnes Mares.
This was the first crop picked according to the new vineyard schematic, as depicted in the 2019 harvest map below. This layout recognises the specific qualities of each microterroir within the Clos and is based on four principal criteria – soil composition (more or less limestone or marl, the source and quality of the plant material (massal selection or clones), the type of pruning (Guyot or Cordon de Royat) and the age of the vines.
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WINEMAKING “The muscularity of Clos de Tart will always be there, but I wanted to catch the voluptuous side of the Clos.” Alessandro Noli, March 2021
2019 was the first vintage made in the brand new cuverie (pictured below). Almost immediately following the purchase in March 2019, major renovation work began on this vat room. Incredibly, it was completed in time to house the 2019 vintage. 15 new wooden vats of varying sizes, ranging from 20 to 40 hectolitres (hL), have replaced the old 50hL stainless steel vats. Made by the Taransaud cooperage, these enable greater winemaking precision and vinification on a plot-by-plot basis. Whole bunch vinification has long been used at the Clos, the proportion varying with the vintage conditions. There are no plans to alter this, although a study with
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The new vat room, its wooden vats tailored to the Clos' plot sizes.
Bordeaux University was started in 2019 to determine the ideal proportion of whole bunches in each of the newlyidentified plots. In 2019, 55% whole bunches were used for Clos de Tart and 15% for Forge de Tart. The village wine, Morey-Saint-Denis de Clos de Tart, was entirely destemmed. Gentle extraction is key for Alessandro Noli. Foot treading was used again in 2019 – the gentlest possible method of pigeage. The individual cuvées are aged separately for around 18 months in oak, 70% new in 2019. Blending takes place one month before bottling, which is still done by hand.
THE 2019 GROWING SEASON THE YEAR IN NUMBERS Bud-burst 2nd April --Full Flowering 6th June --Harvest 13th - 19th September
Yield 30 hl/ha --Whole bunch fermentation – 55% for Clos de Tart and 15% for Forge de Tart --•New oak – 70% for Clos de Tart and 50% for Forge de Tart Photo credit -
2019 was another warm and particularly dry year in Burgundy. High temperatures in February and March led to an early budburst – around two weeks earlier than in 2018 – starting on 2nd April in some of the early-ripening plots. However, the beginning of April saw very cool temperatures and there was a major risk of frost, which fortunately did not materialise thanks to the anti-frost candles deployed throughout the vineyard. This cold spell disrupted the growth cycle slowing down the vines’ development to the extent that flowering occurred in line with the norm, and one week later than in 2018. The vines were in bloom from 6th June and this lasted for 10 days.
2019 was also notable for its lack of rain, despite April being wetter than normal. Drought conditions returned in May, continuing into June and becoming particularly acute in July. The summer was exceptionally hot, with two heatwaves in July. Normal weather conditions returned at the beginning of August and lasted until September. Harvest began amid excellent weather on the auspicious Friday 13th September – two weeks later than in 2018 – and took six days, with good conditions throughout. The grapes were healthy and little sorting was required. The wines were bottled at the end of March 2021.
Click on the images below to hear the domaine's thoughts on the 2019 vintage.
Jean Garandeau, Sales & Marketing Director
Alessandro Noli, Winemaker
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TASTING NOTES CLOS DE TART GRAND CRU MONOPOLE
LA FORGE DE TART, MOREY-SAINT-DENIS PREMIER CRU
Clos de Tart’s oldest vines are over 100 years old; the average is over 60. Deep purple-ruby. A kaleidoscopic, elegant nose of raspberry, red and bitter cherry, blueberry, kirsch, liquorice and graphite. The palate opens with a plum and blackberry fruited drive, the energy building and simply never letting up. Harmonious, plush fruit and spices on the mid-palate, with stony mineral tension and chalky tannins revealing the stark majesty of the Clos. This balances a muscular core with a precise, salty finish, coming as close as I have seen to sensuality – no mean feat from such powerful terroir. A resounding success. 70% new oak, 55% whole bunch fermentation.
From around 20% of the total area of the Clos, specifically from three plots planted in 1999, 2005 and 2011. In 2020, Alessandro Noli vinified the 1999 plot (“La Forge”) separately, to see if it is ready for the grand vin. Dark cherry and sweet blackberry fruit on the nose, with a touch of cedar. The palate is succulent and red fruited, with wonderfully fine tannins, freshness and energy. A wine of finesse and tenderness, coming to a precise, defined finish. Alessandro: “I shouldn’t say it, but it is a wonderful Forge!” 50% new oak, 15% whole bunch fermentation.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19 Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2042+
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2031 £1,095/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£3,295/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £3,310/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK £2,410/Case of 1 jeroboam, in bond UK
MOREY-SAINT-DENIS DE CLOS DE TART 2019 is the second vintage of the domaine’s village wine. This is made from a selection of young vines (3-6 years old) across the Clos – typically where old vines have been replaced. As such, it provides an excellent cross-section of the Clos’ personality. Sweet dark berried aromas, backed up by ripe cranberry and black pepper spice. The palate’s gratifyingly dense sweet blackberry fruit is lifted by fresh acidity. Just 610 bottles have been made in 2019 – even less than in 2018! 100% destemmed, no new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2028 £295/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
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ALLOCATION PROCESS To order, please call 020 7265 2430 (London) or 01875 321 921 (Edinburgh). Please bear in mind that: • Clos de Tart’s and Corney & Barrow’s focus is on the private customer as a consumer, rather than as a speculator. • The wines of Clos de Tart are bought on the clear understanding that they will be stored and delivered in the UK only. • Should you wish to sell the wines in the future, do please offer Corney & Barrow first refusal. • Priority will be given to Clos de Tart’s and Corney & Barrow’s best, most loyal and most regular customers. May we please have your order by Thursday 20th May 2021. Allocations will be completed by Thursday 27th May 2021. Confirmation of order will be through receipt of invoice and the wines will be delivered or put into your reserve upon payment and once the wines have arrived in the UK. All orders are conditional upon UK storage only. May we please request that invoices are paid in full by Monday 28th June 2021.
Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. Wines are scored out of 20. Customers seem to like it and it has the benefit of simplicity. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
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CONTACT US
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