DOMAINE MARQUIS D'ANGERVILLE, 2019 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR - SINGAPORE by corneyandbarrowltd

DOMAINE MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE 2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN SINGAPORE

"The 2019s are charming, elegant, long, and full of energy, with ripe, smooth tannins and a lovely texture. They are unexpectedly fresh despite the hot season." GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE

GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE

DOMAINE MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE 2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR “Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit.” Tasted ‘virtually’ with Guillaume d’Angerville last December, the 2019s from Domaine Marquis d’Angerville melted away the distance between London and Volnay. Unrestrained by le confinement Covid, our recently arrived samples showed brilliantly. In habitually understated manner, Guillaume let on that, “I like 2019 very much.” It was a year which dodged an April frost scare (unlike 2016 and 2017), with a protracted flowering in June being “the main reason the crop is down 30% on 2018.” The vines took in their stride two heatwaves (“they are getting used to them”), before a little August rain got them over the line for harvest, which started “relatively late” (compared to 2018 and 2020, that is), on 12th September.

Guillaume d’Angerville succeeded his father, the highly respected Jacques d'Angerville, who died in 2003. Returning to the domaine from a career in banking, Guillaume represents the family’s fifth generation. Responsible for converting the estate to biodynamics, he works alongside his brother-in-law, Renaud de Villette, who assisted Jacques d’Angerville for many years and François Duvivier, the domaine’s Régisseur. The d’Angerville family’s close involvement with Burgundy beyond the domaine has been continued by Guillaume. He is president of the Climats du vignoble de Bourgogne, which successfully applied for the vineyards of the Côte d’Or to be recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

GUY SEDDON March 2021

HISTORY Domaine Marquis d'Angerville has been owned by the same family for more than two centuries and, over the previous three centuries, by the Dukes of Burgundy and Kings of France.

The first record of the estate, in the village of ‘Vollenay’, was in 1507. In 1804, Baron du Mesnil acquired the Clos des Ducs and the surrounding plots – Taillepieds, Caillerets and Champans – which, in the 12th century, had formed part of the famous holdings of the Dukes of Burgundy. In the second half of the 19th century, the estate passed to Baron du Mesnil’s son, Eugène du Mesnil. On his death in 1888, Eugène, without direct heirs, bequeathed it to his nephew and godson, Sem, Marquis d'Angerville, then aged 15. Sem took possession almost 20 years later, after the phylloxera crisis that ravaged the vineyard at the end of the 19th century. From 1906, the recently renamed

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville began to reconstruct its vineyards, replanting them with what are now the prized Pinot d’Angerville clones. Sem d'Angerville was an early adopter of estate bottling and exports, initially focused on the United States. He was also a founding member of the National Institute of Appellations of Origin, the INAO. When he died in 1952, his son Jacques took over the domaine. As quality-driven as his father, Jacques d'Angerville expanded the domaine’s reputation and did much to raise the image of Volnay. He held positions on several Burgundian bodies, including as chairman of the BIVB predecessor. He died prematurely in July 2003, leaving behind 52 vintages and a magnificently maintained estate.

2019 VINTAGE NOTES "It's still the climate change, stupid!" GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE, March 2021

Once again, thank you to Guillaume d’Angerville for providing us with his detailed view of the growing season. A year ago, Guillaume told us that 2018 would be remembered as “the vintage when it became definitively clear to us that we would have to entirely re-think our winegrowing and vinification processes to adapt to new weather and seasonal patterns. A new paradigm.” This holds true for the 2019 season, which was equally weatheraffected, yet whose pattern was markedly different from that of 2018. Winter 2018-19 was the mildest of the last 25 years, the exact opposite of 2017-18, which was wet and cold. Temperatures remained positive from December to March, except for a dozen days, when the lowest temperature was (only) minus 4.8°C. Low rainfall through the winter created a hydric deficit at the beginning of the season. February was unusually warm, with lots of sunshine, meaning another very early vintage was anticipated. April put an abrupt stop to the vegetative cycle. It was very wet (again the exact opposite of 2018), temperatures remaining cool and frost risk on everyone’s mind, in the context of an early bud-break. The Volnay winegrowers board considered burning hay to protect the vineyards against early morning frost (5th April), but decided against it. Dry, windy conditions helped prevent frost damage. Late April and early May remained cooler than average and the vines were inactive until the end of May, when temperatures finally returned to normal. The first silica

biodynamic preparation was applied on 31st May. June began warm and dry, which helped start flowering. There was no mildew pressure, but odium was a worry everywhere (especially on chardonnay), due to the wet April. Flowering dragged on a little, and “we certainly lost some yield then”. At long last, the rainy weekend of 15th-16th June brought relief (about 60mm). Then the first heatwave hit. The last week of June was very warm (up to 30°C) and growth accelerated rapidly, but without hydric or heat stress. In late July, a second heatwave, coupled with warm winds, stopped vineyard growth and véraison (colour change) was delayed as a result. In Volnay, more rain at the end of July (some 30mm) helped restart the process. Meanwhile, the priority was on keeping odium at bay. A third and final silica biodynamic preparation was sprayed on 30th August and harvest plans were finalised. Yet again, selecting the correct harvest date was key, due to unstable weather and uneven grape development. Harvest started on 12th September. The crop was ripe and healthy, but smaller than 2018’s, with yields 25-30% lower. Vinification was “uneventful”, élevage bringing precision and purity to the wines. 2019 has turned out to be another beautiful vintage ending in a ‘9’. As Guillaume concludes, “It is hard to rationalise this type of vintage comparison, but we will not complain. We are delighted with these wines.”

THE VINEYARDS The Marquis d’Angerville Pinot Noir clones are unique, producing particularly small grapes. These make for a high ‘skin to juice ratio’ and so rich tannins, affording the wines a natural substance and presence. The domaine’s holdings were replanted following phylloxera by Guillaume d’Angerville’s grandfather, Sem, shortly after his arrival at the domaine in 1906. A century later, in 2006, the domaine began conversion to biodynamic viticulture. It is now wholly biodynamic. In our recent tasting last December, Guillaume mused, “The wines are more spherical as a result of biodynamics.”

VINEYARD

AREA IN HECTARES (HA)

AVERAGE AGE OF VINES (YEARS)

Meursault 1er Cru Santenots

1.05

20-25

Volnay Villages

0.49

60-65

Pommard 1er Cru Combes Dessus

0.38

50-55

Volnay 1er Cru

0.97

20-25

Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles

1.07

60-65

Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets

1.58

30-35

Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets

0.65

30-35

Volnay 1er Cru Champans

3.98

40-45

Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds

1.07

30-35

Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs

2.15

40-45

THE VINEYARDS IN NUMBERS: The domaine has 16.5 hectares (ha) of vines --…or 6% of the total 280ha in Volnay --Of these, 12.9ha are premier cru --…which is 12% of Volnay’s total 110ha premier cru vineyard

THE CELLAR “If 2018 is seductive, 2019 is graceful, poised.” GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE December 2020

That grace and poise is enabled by a hands-off cellar regime.

The grapes are cooled before fermentation, which lasts around 15 days, with a gradual and controlled rise in temperature, reaching a maximum of 30-32°C. Extraction focuses on remontage (pumping over) rather than pigeage (punching down). Once fermented, the must is gently pressed and the wine descends by gravity into oak barrels, in the cellars directly beneath the cuverie. The maximum proportion of new oak has declined and is now around a quarter. The wines remain in barrel for 15-18 months, with malolactic conversion occurring in spring or early summer following harvest. Several weeks before bottling, the wines are transferred to tank to blend and settle. Fining and filtration are only used when absolutely necessary and only ever on a small proportion of the wine.

2019 VINTAGE TASTING NOTES WHITE WINES

BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ A C&B exclusivity, which comes from a 0.6 hectare holding below the village of Volnay in Monpoulain, named after a small stream. Crunchy and precise, with green apples, fleshy pears and pithy grapefruit, it is a wine of vibrant fruit and crisp acidity. Vinified in stainless steel and already bottled when tasted in December 2020. The Aligoté revival is in full swing! Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2024 £130/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY The vines for this are on clay-rich soil in Volnay’s Grandes Terres, making this a ‘Volnay Blanc’, if you will! Fleshy white peach fruit, tangy grapefruit and orange rind are set off against a seam of salty minerality. A highly drinkable, zesty delight. It receives 12 months of ageing in 350 litre barrels and six additional months on its lees in vat, the second winter in the cellar bringing out a little extra richness. Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2024 £160/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

MEURSAULT 1ER CRU SANTENOTS This is from the lieu-dit Les Plures, the largest section of Santenots. The vines here are just over 30 years old. Aromas of bright citrus and flinty struck match on the nose. The palate has imposing dry extract, adding a tactile grip which is enlivened by fresh acidity, white peach fruit and orange blossom finesse. A pithy phenolic twist adds precision to the finish. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2026 £485/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

RED WINES BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR

VOLNAY 1ER CRU CLOS DES ANGLES

This comes from a plot on the other side of the Route Nationale, called Grandes Terres, opposite Volnay. A lovely nose of rose petals, with very pretty red berry aromas. The palate has a tactile weight and a pleasing crunch to the crisp raspberry and plum fruit with bitter cherry persisting on the finish. Delicious.

Produced since 2008, from this triangle-shaped vineyard (hence the name) beneath Frémiets. Just over a hectare in size, of which half was uprooted last year, so there is only half the volume in 2019. Dried spices and fresh mint aromas, with a fine line of rose petals. The raspberry fruited palate is detailed with zesty orange rind flavours, making for a very precise, finely tuned wine. Lacy tannins exert the merest grip on the finish.

Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2028 £160/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2036 £425/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

VOLNAY 1ER CRU LES FRÉMIETS

VOLNAY 1ER CRU LES CAILLERETS

Frémiets’ shallow soils – just one foot of limestone-rich soil over the rock – perhaps explain its intensely mineral nature. It borders Pommard, at mid-slope. The nose is sweetly, intensely red and black berried, with bitter cherry and kirsch aromas. The palate moves from a fruit-laden, succulent attack through to a salty, granular finish with fine stony mineral grip. It’s on that finish that the quality is visible…

The domaine’s Caillerets comes from just under half a hectare, in Caillerets Dessus, at the top of the hill. It is the furthest south of the domaine’s holdings. A deceptively pale colour and an insinuating dark, mineral-laden nose. On the palate, an explosive attack of sweet blackberries and bitter cherries gives way to a hunkered down midpalate of coiled power and chalky mineral tension. In Guillaume d’Angerville’s words, “If you don’t know Caillerets, you don’t know Volnay.”

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2037+ £430/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £445/case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2037 £525/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

VOLNAY 1ER CRU CHAMPANS

VOLNAY 1ER CRU TAILLEPIEDS

The domaine is the main owner of Champans, with four hectares in two plots. This is also the domaine’s largest holding. Whilst the soils at the top resemble the mineralladen Caillerets, the bottom is deeper and more iron-rich. A disarmingly pretty nose of rose petals and wild strawberry, nothing hidden here. The palate is similarly open and at ease, the supple raspberry fruit supported by filigree tannins, which nonetheless make their grippy presence felt. A beguiling wine of lace and velvet, versus the earthbound muscle of Taillepieds.

The domaine owns over a hectare of Taillepieds, a cooler slope to the south of the village. It has a white marl sub-soil (to which Régisseur François Duvivier attributes its mineral tension), with 30-40cm of brown earth (bringing a lightness of touch). As in 2018, the 0.6 hectares replanted in 2015 have been used sparingly. A beautifully fine, dark fruited perfume permeates the nose and palate, with aromas of lifted raspberry and sweet and savoury spices. The palate is surprisingly open and bold, its taut rocky minerality “showing its muscles more than the intellectual Caillerets”, in Guillaume’s phrase.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2036+ £525 /case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £540 /case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18-18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2038+ £525 /case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £540 /case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

VOLNAY 1ER CRU CLOS DES DUCS The 2.15 hectare monopole Clos des Ducs surrounds the domaine. South to south-east facing and steeply sloping, it is a warm site thanks to its reflective white marl soils. Unlike Champans, where the first impression is of joyous fruit, here there is more nuance – the airborne (roses) and the earthy (meaty, soy), with cinnamon and cedar. The palate captures that sense of weightlessness and airiness, the tannins so fine as to dissolve in the mouth yet not before adding structure and direction to the profound blackberry and raspberry fruit, which are complemented by liquorice, cedar and dark, rocky minerality. The finish goes on, and on… Corney & Barrow Score 18.5-19 Recommended drinking from 2030 - 2040+ £995 /case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £1,010/case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. Wines are scored out of 20. Customers seem to like it and it has the benefit of simplicity. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a „+" is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.

CONTACT US SINGAPORE 101 Cecil Street, #16-07 Tong Eng Building Singapore, 069533 T +65 6221 8530 singapore@corneyandbarrow.com

FACEBOOK @corneyandbarrowsg

INSTAGRAM @corneyandbarrowsg