DOMAINE TR APET 2019 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR
Maison Trapet, the family’s guest house in Gevrey-Chambertin
DOMAINE TRAPET
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2019 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR
DOMAINE TR APET 2019 2019 is the second vintage released ‘late’ by Domaine Trapet, with an additional year of bottle age.
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Offering wines for sale only once bottled ensures proper ageing. It also means that the wines come to market at a stage of development which is much easier to assess. Good news for both tasters and customers. Domaine Trapet remains family-run and long may that continue, amid an increasingly corporate Burgundian landscape. Jean-Louis’s sons Pierre (born 1992) and Louis (1994) are now both firmly involved in the domaine, as well as in their mother Andrée’s Domaine Trapet in Alsace. They are clearly the future of both estates. The domaine’s holdings are about as good as it gets in and around Gevrey-Chambertin. Delve below the grands and premiers crus and you find the beating heart of this biodynamic estate: village Gevreys and Marsannays of luminescent fruit and soaring perfume. The tasting notes in this offer are from a tasting at the domaine in October 2021. I visited with my colleague Will Monroe. It was Will’s first visit to the domaine and our tasting with Jean-Louis proved to be a highlight of the week.
Jean-Louis, fizzing with his habitual good-natured energy, gave us a whirlwind tour of the cellars, interrupting the barreling-down of the 2021s to make introductions and enthusiastically showing off his new lightweight packaging and the labels designed by Louise Lachaux-Voarick (Charles Lachaux’s wife). The domaine is a hub of activity and exchange – you sense that the team (most of whom are young) love working here. As can be seen from the tasting notes, there is a substantial proportion of whole-bunch fermentation in 2019 here. This now involves the hugely labour-intensive technique of removing the central stem from each bunch, to avoid extracting the more astringent phenolic components. Along with the strict adherence to biodynamics, this is an example of just how much hard work goes into the ‘effortless’ elegance of Domaine Trapet. If I can speak on behalf of Team C&B, we absolutely love these wines. We are proud to be the domaine’s UK agent, having imported the wines since the 1960s.
GUY SEDDON December 2021
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
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Three Trapet Generations : Louis, Jean-Louis, Pierre and Jean Trapet (left to right)
DOMAINE TRAPET
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2019 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR
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Le Chambertin vineyard credit Louis Trapet
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
THE 2019 VINTAGE, IN THE WORDS OF JEAN-LOUIS TRAPET «De l'ombre à la lumière. Ode à la diversité! » “From the shadows to the light. An ode to diversity!” JEAN-LOUIS TRAPET, APRIL 2021 If contrast is the opposition of two things, one of which makes the other stand out, the 2019 vintage was singularly contrasted! The season was also a source of many vexations. But today, this fight that we are going to tell you about is crowned with success. Yes, this vintage is really exciting. Vintages marked with the genius of “9” are full and tasty, they also have a rare and furiously Burgundian balance! A tangible sign of climate change is the extreme precocity of the growing cycle. On 23rd February, the thermometer in the courtyard of the estate read 20°C... These extravagant temperatures quickly pushed the vines out of their lethargy. They cried profusely. Should we risk winter pruning? We are obsessed with the cruel memory of the frosts of 2016 and 2017... So we took the decision to delay pruning. The first buds soon became clearly visible. Automatically, almost compulsively, we scanned the weather daily. The forecasts for the night of
5th April were alarmist... Temperatures were going to be negative. Phone calls were made and the collective struggle organised. The results of such actions can sometimes seem illusory... but the fight of the united winegrower family takes on a capital importance, this common impetus, this resistance. Together, the unacceptable becomes bearable. The stubborn cold that we then experienced stopped any hint of growth. The support for our small vines was constant: from spraying valerian to passages of 500P biodynamic preparations, everything was tried to accompany and stimulate... However, the bite of the frost caused a delay of 15 days, although somewhat compensated by a milder end to April. Grape development was affected. But what confused us most was the disparity of development. Within the same plot and sometimes even on the same vine, we noted both a small bud and a well-developed vine of 10cm...
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DOMAINE TRAPET
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Fresh and sustained wind dried our soils and further accentuated this heterogeneity, which recurred throughout the season. This is, I think, one of the keys to understanding this extraordinary vintage. The beginning of May was again cold and the foliage quite pale. To great ills, great remedies! Several herbal teas of nettle and comfrey were sprayed. The month of June finally brought the long-awaited, comforting warmth. Discreetly, timidly, the first flowers appeared. But we needed to be patient, the small inflorescences would not fully deliver their most heady perfumes for another two weeks. After these two long weeks, the temperatures dropped again, to around 3°C, when fruit-set finally began. Around 14th July, the vines gave a glimpse of their many small, millerands grapes... What energy! The shoots became explosive, overflowing and we found it hard to keep up with the frenetic pace of nature. We then asked; “Are we now going to suffer from the dreaded drought?” At véraison, the water began to be sorely missed. Under these conditions, our sly old adversary, powdery mildew, came knocking. The temptation to resort to sulphur was great. But the scorching temperatures prevented us from using it at the risk of burning the berries.
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2019 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR
A long heatwave set in, the grapes changing colour at a slow, spasmodic pace. The differences in ripeness seen since the start of the season widened: while some young plants started to show signs of water stress, our oldest vines remained valiantly resistant. A saving rain then sprinkled copiously the northern Côte. Our sweetest dreams were taking shape. Gevrey is decidedly blessed by the Gods... Sunday 15th September, the eve of harvest, the weather was set fair and our great team was prepared. In the winery, the rustling of brushes and cleaning jets was amplified. Our beautiful and good little pinots were greeted with fanfare and sparkle! Many small berries, with thick skins, the seeds well lignified and the health near-perfect. Due to the brilliant initial diversity, tasting also suggested very nice acidic structures. Yes really, this vintage is marked with the seal of the 9! The oldest among us remember this dazzling ‘29 or this sumptuous ‘59! For the youngest, these numerous little grapes remind us of the generous and radiant 2009! Today the wines are in bottle. The texture is silky but serious and the aromatic expression that emerges is deliciously fruity, fine and charming. There is also an additional energy and tension that suits our Burgundies so well. This vintage connects us, it unifies us.
THE HOLDINGS HECTARES
PLANTED
Chambertin
Grand Cru
1.90
1919*
Latricières-Chambertin
Grand Cru
0.75
1938*
Chapelle-Chambertin
Grand Cru
0.60
1945*
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur
Premier Cru
0.40
1965
Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle
Premier Cru
0.40
1965
Gevrey-Chambertin
Village
3.00
1913*
Gevrey-Chambertin Ostrea
Village
2.50
1913*
Marsannay Rouge
Village
1.50
1979
Marsannay Blanc
Village
0.50
1979
Bourgogne
Bourgogne
3.85
Various
* Refers to original date of planting, although due to the age of these plots, a significant number of vines have been replanted.
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DOMAINE TRAPET
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2019 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR
2019 TASTING NOTES
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White Wine MARSANNAY BLANC This comes from a lieu-dit called Grasses Têtes, towards the south of Marsanny, one of the contenders for premier cru status once this is introduced. 87% Chardonnay, 13% Pinot Beurot (the Burgundian name for Pinot Gris). Stony minerality, with yellow flower perfume and ripe peach fruit. The inclusion of Pinot Beurot gives a gentle aromatic lift, distinguishing this from the crowd. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2025 £295/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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To Order LONDON
020 7265 2430 EDINBURGH
01875 321 921 sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.
DOMAINE TRAPET
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2019 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR
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Red Wines BOURGOGNE ROUGE
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CUVÉE OSTREA
This comes from a selection of parcels, including one in Marsannay and another in Gilly-lès-Citeaux alongside a holding of Christophe Roumier, which gives very small millerand berries. 40% whole bunch fermented. Ripe and rich, with vivacious red berries, this has that wonderful Trapet brightness of fruit.
Ostrea comprises two hectares and 50 rows, spread over four parcels in the north of Gevrey, towards Brochon. The oldest vines, having been planted before the First World War in 1913, contribute a core of intense Pinot fruit. Dark, violet-laden aromas, with a palate of ripe blackberry, the firmer tannins pointing to greater ageing potential. 60% whole bunch fermentation. 13.5% abv, which is the average here in 2019.
Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2025 £225/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2035 £650/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £335/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
MARSANNAY
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CUVÉE 1859
The domaine’s Marsannay comes from four parcels, 60% of which are in the soon-to-be premier cru zone. Marsannay has a little more clay than GevreyChambertin, explaining this wine’s more assertive, supple style. Bright raspberry fruit, plump and rich, with plushly fruit-coated tannins.
These are the oldest vines of the domaine, originally planted in 1859. Pierre and Louis Trapet, the sixth generation of Trapets in Gevrey, wanted to pay homage to their ancestors with this very limited production new cuvée. Ripe blackberries, very pure, with fine dark stony minerality. The tannins are fine and ferrous-mineral. 100% whole bunch fermentation, without the central stem. An inspired addition to the line-up, showcasing the old vine plantings.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2027 £295/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2035 £450/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN The Trapet family’s Gevrey holdings cover three hectares, with eight individual parcels dotted across various terroirs. Bitter red and black cherry fruit, bright and super-pure, with a winning luminosity and energy (biodynamics in action?), framed by very fine tannins and with a long, perfumed finish. 50% whole cluster fermentation. Around 30 barrels were produced. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2030 £550/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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2019 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU PETITE CHAPELLE
CHAPELLE-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU
This comes from one 0.4 hectare parcel. Delicately spiced aromas of clove, tea leaves and mint. The palate is supple and giving, with a beautiful salty focus and a linear, driving finish. The spicy whole-bunch character, from 70% whole cluster fermentation, makes for a particularly elegant, attractive Petite Chapelle.
A stone's throw from Clos de Bèze, there used to be a small chapel here, built in 1155. Fine clay and limestone soils make for fine, rich, expressive wines. Only two thirds of the domaine’s 0.6 hectares in Chapelle-Chambertin are currently in production. The vines are nearly 60 years old on average. Wonderful orange zest and rose petal aromas, with sweet spices. The palate’s fresh acids and silky tannins bring an impressive elegance to the natural power and concentration here.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2026 – 2036 £595/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2026 – 2040 £1,595/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS PRIEUR
LATRICIÈRES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU
Clos Prieur is stony vineyard, the continuation of MazyChambertin. This 0.4 hectare holding, across two plots, was purchased by the domaine in 1977. Sappy, exotic spices on the nose lead into a palate of dark berry flavours and a red-cherried counterpoint, with a beguiling lightness of touch. 70% whole-bunch vinification.
This 0.75 hectare parcel was bought in 1904 by Jean-Louis’ great-grandfather, in the year of his son’s birth. It was the first of the domaine’s grands crus, the oldest plantings in which date from 1938. Latricières is fabulously sited on gravelly soils, close to a side valley, the Combe Grisard, from which cool air flows. Exotic spices and white pepper aromas, with a hint of sauvage, balanced by violets, peonies and crystalline raspberry fruit. Two thirds whole-bunch fermented. What a wine – on a par with Chambertin itself this year.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2027 – 2037 £595/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 19 Recommended drinking from 2026 – 2040 £1,595/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CAPITA
CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU
A 100% whole-bunch super-cuvée, made from three premiers crus parcels: Combottes (next to Latricitères), Les Corbeaux (just south of the town) and Hergots/ Ergot (part of Petite Chapelle). The total holding is 0.6 hectares. This was first made in 2005 and appears only when conditions permit. The name Capita comes from the Latin for ‘head’. This is the penultimate Capita: from 2021, the three plots will be vinified separately. Crunchy, sweet fruited and generous, with fine grippy tannins.
Bought in 1919, this is an extraordinary 1.9 hectare holding, consisting of three parcels. At the bottom of the slope, there is limestone and marl, then fine clay and higher up, white marl, which slows down the growing cycle. Blackberry, dark cherry and redcurrant on the nose, with spicy, incense-laden aromas from the two-thirds wholebunch fermentation. The palate has phenomenal drive and a weightless chassis, the fine grippy tannins coated in succulent pinot fruit.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2039
Corney & Barrow Score 19 Recommended drinking from 2028 – 2045
£650/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£2,495/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £2,515/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection.
14 - 16 A VERY GOOD TO EXCELLENT WINE 16 - 18 AN EXCELLENT TO OUTSTANDING WINE 18 - 20 AN OUTSTANDING TO LEGENDARY WINE Wines are judged within their peer group, e.g. villages, premiers crus, grands crus. A definitive score of a young wine is almost impossible. We usually offer a spread (e.g. 14-16) that relates to a potential to achieve a higher mark. A ‘+’adds further to that potential. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes.
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Jean-Louis Trapet
DOMAINE TRAPET
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2019 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
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