DOMAINE DU PÉLICAN 2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR
“The project has gone beyond what I was hoping for’ GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE APRIL 2021
INTRODUCTION From the outset, it is clear that the 2019 vintage at Domaine du Pélican is another positive evolution, after the delicious 2018 vintage, on the road to “Jura expression”. We can clearly see the increasing winemaking confidence from the team which is firmly in its 6th vintage now. This puts Domaine du Pélican with the best of the best in the region and we cannot wait for you to try them.
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This release also introduces a sparkling wine, made of 100% Savagnin, the ‘Cuvée S’. It completes the already strong lineup of regional and single vineyard Chardonnay, Savagnin, Poulsard, Trousseau and Pinot Noir. The last piece of the puzzle is a Vin Jaune. If all goes according to plan, we should see this addition with the release in 2 years! Before this time, do yourself a nice gift and add to your cellar some 2019 Domaine du Pelican wines!
JOY CHAN ACCOUNT MANAGER – PRIVATE CLIENTS – HONG KONG JUNE 2021
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THE DOMAINE Domaine du Pélican is based in Montigny-lès-Arsures, near Arbois, in the Jura region, between Burgundy and Switzerland. The Domaine was established in 2012 by Guillaume d’Angerville, of Domaine Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay, and his longstanding régisseur in Volnay, François Duvivier. The wines are vinified, barrel-aged and bottle-aged at the estate. The holdings, as in Volnay, are mercifully close together, which is a blessing for biodynamic viticulture. The fifteen hectares are planted with two white varieties; Chardonnay and Savagnin and three red varieties; Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard. The vineyards are located in two main areas. In the hamlet of Montigny-lès-Arsures, are the holdings bought from Château de Chavanes and Jacques Puffney. The single cru En Barbi is there. The second holding is in Arbois, in the lieu-dit Grand Curoulet, from where the eponymous single cru wines come. There are a few rows of vines, called Le Clos by the Château de Chavanes and where the new winery is now erected. The vines are between 10 and 40 years old, apart from three hectares in Grand Curoulet that were re-planted in 2015.
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Guillaume d’Angerville decided to make wines in the Jura, after tasting blind a Chardonnay from Stéphane Tissot that he mistook for a Meursault. There followed a search
GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE & FRANÇOIS DUVIVIER
lasting several years, with the help of the soil specialist Yves Herody, to find the right vineyards. The estate was founded in 2012 and christened Domaine du Pélican. The first vines came from the Château de Chavanes estate. The vineyards of Jacques Puffney were added in 2014. The plot of Jean Marc Brignot, le Grand Curoulet, was also bought in 2012, but only came into production in the 2018 vintage. That plot in Grand Curoulet had been tended without any pesticides by the former owner who was producing natural wines. But neglected for several years, d’Angerville and Duvivier decided to replant it all, using massal selection. The name of the estate, Domaine du Pélican is a tribute to the past and how the town of Arbois chose a pelican as its symbol. The Pélican, which appears on the town’s crest, was adopted by Arbois, in memory of the pet bird of Marie de Bourgogne that did not survive the trip to the Jura. Marie was the wife of Maximilian of Habsburg, Emperor of the German Empire; they were touring their lands and the bird perished in the cold weather. Afraid of the potential repercussion of this drama, the town of Arbois chose the Pélican for their emblem. Widely known, this legend had never been used, until Guillaume d’Angerville came to the Jura.
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THE 2019 VINTAGE The vintage was early because of a mild and wet winter that led to an early budbreak in April. April and May proved to be very dry, with low temperatures between 3-4°C. Spring and summer continued to be dry, causing a loss of 20% in the vineyard to poor fruit setting (coulure). By mid-June to July, temperatures rose to 40°C.
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Some producers in the south of Jura lost their entire production to sunburn. Domaine du Pélican was lucky in this regard and ended up harvesting in mid-September. Harvest was quick and lasted a total of around 2.5 weeks. For the first time, the team paused half a week before harvesting the Poulsard at the optimal maturity. The resulting wines are concentrated but without the high alcohol levels and the typical sensation of warmth of some 2019 whites from other regions in France.
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BIODYNAMICS As in Volnay, Domaine du Pélican’s vineyards are managed biodynamically. There are eight permanent staff at the estate, to apply the plant-based treatments when needed and to work the soil and the vines. Harvest is manual. The grapes are sorted at the winery, the tanks and foudres filled by gravity and winemaking intervention is minimal. No new oak is used to ferment or age the wines.
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Biodynamics have proven to be exceptionally successful against drought (which causes hydric stress and vines to shut down). As a result, the vines extend deeper their root network to find water, while reduced plowing maintains insulation and retains moisture in the soil.
AGEING CELLAR AT CHATEAU DE CHAVANES
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THE WINES
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ARBOIS POULSARD 2019
ARBOIS TROIS CÉPAGES 2019
Excellent ripeness and succulent red fruit on the nose, with slight touches of kirsch and herbal spices. It is very accessible now even so young, with gorgeous ripe strawberry and raspberry notes on the palate, completed with fantastic minerality and a long saline finish. One to drink well either on its own or with food.
Delicate and refined cherries and raspberries, peppered with deft touches of bramble, cedar and forest floor notes. It is a pure, lively and refreshing wine that is easily quaffable now young but also with enough structure and acidity to age effortlessly. A serious beauty with personality and inner depth and layers.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2028+
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19 Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2030+
£155/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£145/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
ARBOIS PINOT NOIR CLOS ST-LAURENT 2019
ARBOIS CHARDONNAY 2019
This cuvée was formerly labelled Arbois Pinot Noir. It is now labelled with the name of its vineyard, which is located directly behind the winery. Compared to the Poulsard, the nose is less open but quite concentrated with hints of cherry, bramble and sweet spice. This is more concentrated and serious than the previous 2018 Pinot Noir. In the mouth, it has excellent punch with cherry, raspberry and strawberry notes with a clear aromatic and perfumed finish. This is no Burgundy pinot but the very distinct Jura pinot noir, something singular and unique!
This is a big departure for those who have tried their previous vintages of Chardonnay. It drinks as ultra-Jura now and less Burgundian than previous vintages. The nose is full of almond and nut notes, incredibly racy and full of tension in the mouth (‘nerveuse’ as the French would call it). Lovely touches of lime, pear, green apples and silex. There is no sense of heat on either the nose or palate – truly an astonishing testament to the level of viticulture and vinification.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2030+
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026+ £145/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£145/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
ARBOIS TROUSSEAU BÉRANGER 2019
ARBOIS CHARDONNAY EN BARBI 2019
This is a majestic, opulent and powerful wine from the get-go, with profound red and black fruit notes, lots of complexity and layers both on the nose and palate. It is a broad wine yet it retains elegance and silkiness. It has an appealing sous bois and mushroom lift on the mid palate and finish. One to try now but also forget in the cellar while it ages patiently.
There is a distinct difference between the single vineyard Chardonnay En Barbi and the classic cuvée. Here the nose has more salinity than nuttiness. The palate is equally saline and reminiscent of the alluvial soil, which was under the sea millions of years ago. It has this appealing touch of white flowers and a long mineral finish. A definite gourmand wine that needs time to really showcase its full potential.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2033+
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2028+
£195/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £190/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
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ARBOIS SAVAGNIN OUILLÉ 2019
ARBOIS CHARDONNAY GRAND CUROULET 2019
Pronounced herbaceous notes that are accompanied by layers of lemon rind, green apple, sea salt and white flowers. There is also a strong underlining mineral backbone to the wine that carries it from beginning to finish. This is also quite more-ish, meaning you want to keep drinking more of it. In its youth now, it is more austere than past vintages in their youth, but will be incredibly powerful with time.
This chardonnay builds on the flavours of the regional Chardonnay but with a lot more citrus fruit. Lots of fresh zesty lemon, lemon rind, mineral notes on the nose with predominant red apple and lemon on the palate. The acidity here is well matched by the fruit aromas. Ridiculously easy to drink and very accessible early.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19 Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2028+
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2026+ £170/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£145/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
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ARBOIS SAVAGNIN OUILLÉ GRAND CUROULET 2019
BRUT CUVÉE Sº (SAVAGNIN) 2018
Crunchy green apple and pear notes with touches of elderflower and minerality. It is quite racy compared to the more opulent 2018 vintage. Long and tensile finish. It will require some time to open fully but will reward you for a long time to come. Definitely reminiscent of certain grands crus Chablis or Burgundy.
Not tasted yet.
Corney & Barrow Score 19 - 19.5 Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2030+
Cuvée S˚ is made mostly from a 2018 base wine, spending 1 year in foudre. It is then blended with 10% of 2019 vintage for the second fermentation in bottle. Disgorgement takes place after 13 months in the cellar, without any dosage or any added yeast. It is dry and 100% Savagnin. It is vinous with aromas of fresh flowers and drinks well as an aperitif (I will recommend freshly backed Gougères if you ask).
£190/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£170/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
ARBOIS SAVAGNIN MACÉRATION PELLICULAIRE 2019 Bright, fresh, full of citrus and citrus rind notes. The fresh and fruit forward characters are matched nicely with touch of flint and chalk. This is Guillaume and Francois’ 2nd incursion in the orange wine/skin contact wine territory. It is also a favorite of Thibaut Mathieu, MD of C&B for Asia. It is a gentle introduction to this style of wine, which you must try! Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2028+ £170/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
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