WEINGUT JOH. JOS. PRÜM MOSEL, GERMANY 2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR
WEINGUT JOH. JOS. PRÜM
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2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR
“2019 looks to be one of the finest vintages ever in the Mosel. At the same time, quantities are low and some of the finest wines are simply in short supply.” Jean Fisch and David Rayer, MoselFineWines.com
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
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WEINGUT JOH. JOS. PRÜM
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2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR
To find out more about Corney & Barrow visit www.corneyandbarrow.com
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
WEINGUT JOH. JOS. PRÜM MOSEL, GERMANY
Joh. Jos. Prüm’s vineyards are ideally sited opposite the village of Wehlen, at the centre of the famous sweeping run of vertiginously steep slopes which are responsible for some of the world’s greatest and most age-worthy white wines. The western side of the Mosel is flat, whilst over on the eastern bank, the gradient reaches 65% in places. Directly opposite JJ Prüm’s riverfront house lies the Wehlener Sonnenhur vineyard, its name standing proud in large white letters on a lower terrace and in the centre, the famous sundial from which it takes its name. Our much-anticipated annual tasting with Katharina Prüm and export manager Mihailo Martinovic was not to be this year, due to Covid, meaning we tasted samples which they kindly sent to us in London. This did little to diminish our excitement around what could turn out to be one of the finest Mosel vintages in decades. A rollercoaster season of sometimes extreme heat and moisture but also cool nights has made for wines of ripeness, purity and breath-taking acid structure. The 2019 Prüms will delight early but also have decades of graceful ageing potential ahead.
GUY SEDDON November 2020
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WEINGUT JOH. JOS. PRÜM
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2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR
THE 2019 VINTAGE AT JJ PRÜM “The wines already show themselves open and promising at this very youthful stage.” KATHARINA PRÜM AUGUST 2020
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The year began relatively dry with an extraordinary amount of sunshine in January and especially in February. The first frosty days came relatively late, starting in the second part of January and continued through February with few interruptions, although air temperatures remained well above the long term average. March was also mild overall, although much closer to normal temperatures but fortunately with much higher precipitation. April started off fairly warm, peaking at a maximum temperature of over 25˚C on 20th April. Bud break took place in mid-April, i.e. relatively early. The early summer temperatures were then abruptly interrupted the following month when on 5th May temperatures came dangerously close to freezing point. Fortunately JJ Prüm’s holdings were spared. After a mild start, June brought high temperatures and very dry weather later in the month, with a peak of 36.5˚C on 30th June. Flowering in the first half of the month was very harmonious. Full flowering was reached at midmonth. With minor fluctuations, the months of June, July and August saw predominantly summer-like weather, with temperatures remaining above 25˚C and interspersed with a few hotter days with temperatures exceeding 30˚C.
The summer’s highest temperature exceeded that in 2018, with a remarkable 39.5˚C on 26th July. By comparison, the highest temperature in 2018 was 36.8˚C. Despite these headline-grabbing peaks, the number of ‘warm but not hot’ summer days in 2019 was about 50% lower than in 2018. There was more temperature fluctuation in 2019’s summer, compared to the unrelenting heat of 2018. July’s considerable rainfall helped to ward off hydric stress, but a greater danger was sunburn. Maintaining a protective canopy of foliage was essential during this extremely warm, sunny period. Significantly cooler nights from the second half of August onwards calmed the situation and helped to preserve the all-important acidity. The trend of warm days followed by cold nights continued throughout September, meaning the ripening process progressed rapidly. Harvest started very early by Mosel standards, on 23rd September. In summary, Katharina Prüm described the weather in 2019 as “once again characterised by lots of sunshine”, noting – crucially – that the rapid ripening in late September meant the grapes harvested were ripe, with excellent acidity and high extract.
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
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WEINGUT JOH. JOS. PRÜM
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2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR
To find out more about Corney & Barrow visit www.corneyandbarrow.com
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
THE VINEYARDS BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE Bernkasteler Badstube lies to the south-east of the Prüm house, facing back across the river towards BernkastelKues. The slopes here are marginally less steep than other parts of the estate (although steepness is all relative here!) The vines are afforded longer exposure to the afternoon sun. The wines, consequently have a tendency to be a little more flamboyant in youth, albeit with a marked mineral tension.
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GRAACHER HIMMELREICH The Graacher Himmelreich vineyard faces south-west and has deeper soils than Wehlener Sonnenuhr, which is often described as Graach’s older brother. This soil depth provides excellent water reserves. The wines display fine acidity, pronounced minerality, white flowers and spices. These tend to be earlier-drinking wines. Mihailo recounted driving past this vineyard in the mornings, seeing it totally in the shade until around 8.30am. It is tempting to find this cooler character in the wines.
WEHLENER SONNENUHR Lying opposite the family home, across the river, Wehlener Sonnenuhr is a fabulously sited and steeply sloping vineyard. It is the jewel in the Prüm holdings and one of the grandes dames of the Mosel. The name refers to a sundial constructed by Jodicus Prüm in the vineyard. There are five hectares of old, low-yielding, ungrafted vines here. An Einzellage (single vineyard plot), Wehlener Sonnenuhr produces wines defined by their warmth and impressive age-worthiness.
WEINGUT JOH. JOS. PRÃœM
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2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR
2019 TASTING NOTES These tasting notes are based on a tasting of finished wines in London in September 2020.
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
KABINETT This term was originally derived from the English word ‘cabinet’, which before the German wine law of 1971 was used as a mark of quality wines. Kabinett is the ‘lowest’ (least rich) of the six German wine Prädikats. Mosel Kabinetts are particularly light in alcohol and could be described as off-dry.
BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE KABINETT This has a more westerly aspect than Prüm’s other Kabinetts, giving more afternoon sun exposure and a consequently fleshier style. Succulent white peach, quince and orange blossom. A generous, pliant palate and a juicy finish. Wonderful. Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2038+ £170/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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GRAACHER HIMMELREICH KABINETT Prüm’s holding in Graach is a cooler site, with a more moisture-retentive soil. A leaner nose here, with stony minerality on the attack. An impressive depth and richness on the mid-palate – friable slaty texture, with a clipped, precise finish and a twist of grapefruit. Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2038+ £180/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
WEHLENER SONNENUHR KABINETT This is richer, as tends to be the way with this most majestic of vineyards, but without sacrificing any precision. As usual, but perhaps even more so in 2019, the volume and tuning dials are cranked up here. Zesty lime fruit, green citrus and white peach, with a long, fine, driving finish. Pitch-perfect. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2039+ £220/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £125/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
WEINGUT JOH. JOS. PRÜM
SPÄTLESE 12
Literally ‘late harvest’, within the Prädikat system, Spätlese is a step up in grape sugar, as measured at harvest time. Many consider Spätlesen to be the sweet spot (or in the other sense, not so sweet really) of Riesling – where the full expression of grape variety meets terroir.
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2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE SPÄTLESE Peach and even a little apricot on the nose, this is a joyously giving expression of Mosel Riesling. The palate is juicy and primary-fruited, with candied citrus and an insistent richness adding a sense of power and stature. Delightful. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2037 £215/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
GRAACHER HIMMELREICH SPÄTLESE JJ Prüm has over eight hectares in the cooler Graach. Grapefruit and a briny seashell quality to the nose. The palate is zesty and citric on the entry, opening onto a broader shouldered mid-palate of cushioned white peach. An assertive finish with beautiful mineral notes of sea salt and slate. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2047+ £230/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £130/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
WEHLENER SONNENUHR SPÄTLESE A measured nose of what might be termed politely relentless ripeness. The palate is an absolute delight, pliant white peach and lush apricot, with slaty definition narrowing the aperture on the finish magnificently. Laser-like focus, simply a brilliant wine. The pick of the offer? Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2027 – 2047+ £260/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £145/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
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WEINGUT JOH. JOS. PRÜM
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2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR
AUSLESE
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Meaning ‘selected harvest’, Auslese is another notch up in volume. Auslesen may also have some botrytis, or ‘noble rot’, contributing to the sense of honeyed richness. In the best examples, this is offset by the Mosel’s signature high-line of taut acidity. In 2019, there was relatively little botrytis, due to the early harvest.
GRAACHER HIMMELREICH AUSLESE
WEHLENER SONNENUHR AUSLESE
This has the trademark flintiness of Graach on the nose, defined and with a little white pepper spice. The palate is taut, pared back at this early stage and strikingly elemental, but what bone structure! Lemon sherbet zestiness and the merest hint of the weight and power to come. A sleeping beauty, one for the long term.
Hints of lemony citrus, quince and chalky minerality on the nose, which is tightly knit and rather inscrutable at this young stage. By contrast, the palate is overtly powerful, with bright apricot fruit and honeyed depths – an extrovert, brimming with verve and yet beautifully paced, finishing precisely, finely chiselled.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2026 – 2046
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2027 – 2047
£270/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£320/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £185/CASE OF 12 HALVES, IN BOND UK £180/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
To find out more about Corney & Barrow visit www.corneyandbarrow.com
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
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WEINGUT JOH. JOS. PRÜM
To Order LONDON
020 7265 2430 EAST ANGLIA
01638 600 000 NORTH OF ENGLAND
01748 828 640 EDINBURGH
01875 321 921 EMAIL
sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.
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Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. Wines are scored out of 20; it has the benefit of simplicity. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
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2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR
To find out more about Corney & Barrow visit www.corneyandbarrow.com
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL Goldkapsel, a.k.a. Goldcap, refers to the gold capsule around the neck of these bottles. It is an unregulated term in Germany, but has become widely used in the Mosel to denote an additional level of quality, richness and ageing potential.
GRAACHER HIMMELREICH AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL An effortlessly lifted nose of zesty citrus and delicate lemon sherbet. The palate has almost endless depths, layer upon layer of peach, grapefruit, apricot and quince, with a nutty, marmaladed exoticism, set off against that tell-tale fine line of friable minerality. The finish is resoundingly ripe, long and beautifully tapered. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2047+ £610/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
WEHLENER SONNENUHR AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL More open on the nose than the regular bottling – this is rather excitingly lush, with orange blossom, grapefruit zest and wet-stone minerality. The palate reverberates with citric zing on the attack – lemon rind and lime – building in a crescendo to unveil a resonant mid-palate of fleshy white peach and apricot, cushioned by that softshelled Mosel structure which makes you realise this is about so much more than the lovely young fruit. Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2030 – 2050+ £695/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £365/CASE OF 12 HALVES, IN BOND UK
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WEINGUT JOH. JOS. PRÃœM
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2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR
CONTACT US Our Locations
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LONDON 1 Thomas More Street London E1W 1YZ T +44 (0)20 7265 2400 sales@corneyandbarrow.com
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
www.corneyandbarrow.com