Domaine Trapet 2021 by corneyandbarrowltd

DOMAINE TR APET 2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

DOMAINE TRAPET

Pierre and Jean-Louis

2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

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THE BAND OF BROTHERS VINTAGE The vineyard team may all say, “I was at Domaine Trapet during the battle for the 2021 vintage!” JEAN-LOUIS TRAPET The line above from Jean-Louis’ 2021 vintage report reminded me of the St Crispin’s Day speech from Shakespeare’s Henry V: “We few, we happy few...” Maybe it’s just me – the Battle of Agincourt comes more readily to English minds, I suppose. 2021 was certainly a battle. As I write, in January 2024, with the plentiful grassy uplands of the 2022 and 2023 vintages stretching before us, it is easy to forget the havoc inflicted by 2021’s spring frosts. At Domaine Trapet, losses were around 60-80% in whites and 50% in reds. This is a ‘late release’ of the 2021 vintage which, as of last year, is how the domaine’s wines are offered. An extra year in bottle makes the wines easier to assess and ensures they finish their barrel ageing in as unhurried a manner as possible. Having imported the wines of Domaine Trapet since the 1960s, it is fantastic to see this family-run domaine thriving. Following the return of Jean-Louis and Andrée Trapet’s sons Pierre (born 1992) and Louis (1994), there are three generations actively involved at present. Keeping an eye on them all is patriarch Jean Trapet. The domaine’s enviable holdings are centred on GevreyChambertin, where the domaine is based. Delve below the grands and premiers crus and you find the heart of this biodynamic estate: village Gevreys and Marsannays of luminescent fruit and soaring perfume.

The proportion of vines trellised on single poles, or échalas, continues to grow. 50,000 of these posts have been installed over the past two years, at an average density of 12,500 vines per hectare. As Louis Trapet, with whom Joe Muller and I tasted in November, said, this method ensures nutrients are channelled into the berries rather than the leaves. You also tend to get 0.5% abv less alcohol with the échalas. As mentioned last year, the Trapet approach to wholebunch fermentation involves the hugely labourintensive technique of removing the central stem from each bunch, to avoid extracting the more astringent phenolic components. Along with the strict adherence to biodynamics, this is an example of just how much hard work goes into the ‘effortless’ elegance of Domaine Trapet. We were lucky enough to taste at the domaine three times over the autumn: once in October and twice in November. The white wines and the earlier-drinking reds were bottled in August 2022; the remainder in August 2023. 40% whole bunch fermentation was used for the premiers crus in 2021, with 60% for 1er Cru Combottes and the grands crus. The level of toast for the barrels was reduced in 2021, to lessen the oak flavour component. Harvest in 2021 was described by Louis as “middle-to-late” versus others.

GUY SEDDON Head of Fine Wine Buying February 2024

DOMAINE TRAPET

2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

THE 2021 VINTAGE AT DOMAINE TRAPET My intention is not to create literature, but to tell the story of the life of our family. A life so linked to the cultivation of vines that by writing it, I am writing the history of the vinegrowers of our Burgundy. I also want to show those who come after us that we too have had great difficulties, but that we have always overcome them with energy, will and confidence in our vineyards. ARTHUR TRAPET, JUNE 1934 (EXTRACT FROM HIS JOURNAL)

These words are never truer than in 2021, a vintage of “adversity and cruelty”, in the words of Jean-Louis Trapet. See opposite Jean-Louis’ account of the growing season.

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It all started with an intense heatwave at the end of March. Our vines revealed their first buds very early. Stimulated by almost summer-like temperatures, they unfolded and flourished at a speed that worried us. This scenario is unfortunately not unknown to us and 2016 sadly comes back to our memories... Our first action was to slow down the pace of growth. The pruning shears were not put away for good until a week before the disastrous frost at the beginning of April. Here we saw the beneficial effects of very late pruning. In Pierre and Louis' new plot, ‘Les Vireuils’ in Meursault, for example, the small buds protected by their cotton envelope only emerged ten days after the frost. This simple method, well known to the ancients, is one of the ways of combatting spring frosts, which are unfortunately more and more frequent. But this seemingly simple method actually requires a complete reorganisation of our winter work. How to prune large areas in very limited time? In a tragic omen, snow began to fall on the night of Tuesday 6th April... The temperatures were wintery and then dropped to -8°C for three nights. Should we protect ourselves? Our family meeting the previous Sunday raised the question of the ecological impact of burning antifrost candles. The small inflorescences were already clearly visible and we were worried about the more pessimistic forecasts. We therefore decided to place a few pots of paraffin in a few select plots. They would be lit twice, on Tuesday and Wednesday. Sprays of valerian and arnica completed the vineyard treatments. A Homeric battle then begun. Spring and the beginning of summer were ‘well watered’! It rained almost every day... The temperatures were cool and our vines, weakened by the frost, were anemic. The few rare lulls gave our

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vineyard team a little respite. Nothing was too much to support our little vines. An incredibly rapid flowering lasted just a week, followed by growth in spurts. Around 15th June, temperatures finally rose and growth became explosive. Everything happened quickly, as if the vines, broken and worn down by frost, needed to liberate themselves. In these conditions, the discreet and delicate little flowers enclosed between the leaves and the vine branches finally released the most subtle and intoxicating scents. A complicated start to summer... July was marked by numerous storms and the north of Gevrey was unfortunately hit heavily by hail. These conditions accentuated the threat to vine health. It is necessary to emphasise the particularity of this unusual pressure. It is rare to see downy and powdery mildew combine their efforts so effectively. In 2021, we were spoiled, we had both! At this stage of the story, we would like to thank our team, who through cohesion and self-sacrifice were able to stem the horrors of this unusual year. They may all say: I was at Domaine Trapet during the battle for the 2021 vintage! In a demonstration of the Magic of Burgundy, the end of summer was resplendent! Our wildest hopes were reborn. Powerfully aided by nature, the true Burgundian miracle took place at the end of the cycle. Thanks to the northern “bise” and the brilliant sun, ripeness became focused and precise. On Thursday 23rd September, the first grapes were welcomed into the vat room. The maturity was beautiful and the acidity balanced. Freed from the excess and power of the latest, more generous and sometimes more exuberant vintages, the first tastings evoked the spirit of the wines that our parents produced in the 1970s. Flavourful, fresh and elegant, these very Burgundian wines are faithful to their place of birth.

DOMAINE TRAPET

2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

THE HOLDINGS

HECTARES

PLANTED

Chambertin

Grand Cru

1.90

1919*

Latricières-Chambertin

Grand Cru

0.75

1938*

Chapelle-Chambertin

Grand Cru

0.60

1945*

Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes

Premier Cru

0.15

1990

Gevrey-Chambertin Ergot

Premier Cru

0.32

1880

Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur

Premier Cru

0.40

1965

Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle

Premier Cru

0.40

1965

Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux

Premier Cru

0.25

Gevrey-Chambertin 1859

Village

0.50

1859

Gevrey-Chambertin

Village

4.50

1913*

Gevrey-Chambertin Ostrea

Village

1.50

1913*

Marsannay Rouge

Village

1.70

1979

Marsannay Blanc

Village

0.80

1979

Bourgogne

0.90

Various

* Refers to original date of planting, although due to the age of these plots, a significant number of vines have been replanted.

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DOMAINE TRAPET

2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

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TASTING NOTES White Wines BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY The domaine's Bourgogne Chardonnay comes from two limestone-rich parcels in Marsannay: En Auvonne and En Varangée. The soils are free-draining and the slopes are well-exposed, with plenty of surface pebbles. This is a wine of flinty-mineral aromatics, whose taut body is sustained by crisp acidity. Clipped and chalky, with great precision. Aged in a mix of large Stockinger cuves, concrete eggs and barrels. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2027 £150/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

MARSANNAY BLANC This comes from a lieu-dit called Grasses Têtes, towards the south of Marsannay, one of the contenders for premier cru status once this is introduced. Mainly Chardonnay, with a seasoning of Pinot Beurot (the Burgundian name for Pinot Gris). Crunchy citrus fruit, with a winning peachy fleshiness on the palate. An overperformer in 2021, with a beguiling density and generosity. It finishes salty and bone dry. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2027 £195/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

DOMAINE TRAPET

2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

Red Wines

BOURGOGNE PASSETOUTGRAINS A MINIMA

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CUVÉE OSTREA

This comes from the lieu-dit Grands Champs, just outside Gevrey-Chambertin. It is one-third Gamay and twothirds Pinot Noir in 2021, and includes the grapes usually destined for the Bourgogne Rouge. Planted in 1965 in two separate parcels by Louis and Jean Trapet – Jean-Louis’ grandfather and father respectively. Bright red cherry fruit aromas, with cranberry and a hint of liquorice. The palate is violet-hued and lifted by its bright Gamay fruit. Upbeat and joyful.

Ostrea is a cuvée made from one and a half hectares, spread over three parcels in the north of Gevrey, towards Brochon. The oldest vines, having been planted before the First World War, in 1913, contribute a core of intense Pinot fruit. This is beautifully red-berried and pure on the nose. The palate’s crisp raspberry fruit builds on the mid-palate, sustained by taut acidity and filigree-fine tannins. Traditional, in the best sense. 40% whole bunch fermentation in 2021.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2029

Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2036

£125/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£435/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £465/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

MARSANNAY

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CUVÉE 1859

Like the Marsannay Blanc, this comes from the lieu-dit Grasses Têtes as well as the Grand Poirier, covering 1.7 hectares in total. The heavier, clay-rich soils of Marsannay here translate into an assertively-fruited and supple style. In 2021, this has a beautiful dark-fruited, crushed rock nose. The palate is cool and focused, intricately textured, the fleshy blackberry fruit balanced against taut, lemony acidity. Jean-Louis decided on a longer élevage in 2021, which has accentuated that suppleness, making for a wine that appears easy in its own skin.

These are the oldest vines of the domaine, originally purchased in 1859. Pierre and Louis Trapet, the sixth generation of Trapets in Gevrey, wanted to pay homage to their ancestors with this cuvée, now in its third vintage. There is an additional layer of sweetness and intensity here – a deep, dark core of spicy Gevrey fruit which belies the 2021 vintage. Seriously impressive. 40% whole bunch fermentation in 2021, the bunches’ central stems having been painstakingly removed by hand.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2029 £215/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2036 £525/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £555/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN

GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU PETITE CHAPELLE

The Trapet family’s village-level holdings in GevreyChambertin cover four and half hectares, with ten individual parcels dotted across various terroirs. A textbook Gevrey nose of cool dark berries and crushed rock minerality, with a little orange zest and a touch of exotic spice. The palate is coiled and refined, with a gently insistent intensity of dark berry fruit building on the midpalate, framed by fine, chalky tannins. 30% whole bunch fermentation.

Purchased by the Trapet family in 1913, this is made from a 0.4 hectare parcel in Petite Chapelle, which lies just beneath Chapelle-Chambertin. Red berried and open, it is remarkably approachable in 2021, the succulent raspberry flavours sustained by a fine line of acidity. Around two-thirds whole bunch fermentation draws out the elegant spices in this attractive Petite Chapelle.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2033 £375/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2038 £875/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

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DOMAINE TRAPET

2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS PRIEUR

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU LES CORBEAUX

Clos Prieur is a stony vineyard, the continuation of MazisChambertin (indeed, it is sometimes referred to as a 'baby Mazis'.). This 0.4 hectare holding, which consists of two plots, was purchased by the domaine in 1893. Crystalline red berry fruit on the nose, aromatic and pure. The palate reverberates with energy, confit raspberry and cranberry. A luminous wine and a standout, subtly lifted by a proportion of whole-bunch vinification.

Another close neighbour of Mazis-Chambertin, Les Corbeaux is a 0.9 hectare walled plot, nestled in a small dip in the slope, giving extra warmth in spring and protection from the Combe Lavaux in winter. Jean-Louis calls this a “small secret garden”. It is one of the three premiers crus which previously went into the 1er Cru Capita cuvée. 2021 is the first vintage. Production should average three barrels in a normal year. Flinty reduction on the nose, leading into a gratifyingly juicy and richlyfruited palate, on which the raspberry and blackberry flavours are lifted by playful spices from the 40% whole bunch fermentation.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2039 £875/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2041 £875/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

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GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU EN ERGOT

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU COMBOTTES

This is the first vintage of 1er Cru En Ergot, which previously formed part of the 1er Cru Capita cuvée. The Trapet family’s 0.6 hectares here are among their oldest terroirs, having been owned since 1877 and representing half of the 1.2 hectare appellation. These were also the domaine’s first vines planted on American rootstocks following phylloxera. En Ergot is just beneath Petite Chapelle, with less limestone in the soil. Dark flintymineral aromas open onto a fine and driven palate, whose dark berry flavours remained tightly coiled when tasted in autumn 2023.

This is the last of the trio which previously formed part of the 1er Cru Capita cuvée. It is a 0.15 hectare holding which in a normal year should result in three barrels, although produced just one in the small 2021 crop. Combottes is the natural extension of the neighbouring Combe Grisard, which brings a little freshness in summer. It sits between Clos de la Roche and Latricières-Chambertin. This is a loamy, free-draining soil, according to Louis Trapet, with whom we tasted it. The vines here are trained high, untrimmed. Rich, creamy, red-fruited aromas. The brightly red-berried mid-palate revels in confit raspberry flavours. A wine of spicy ripeness and tension which finishes crunchy and precise.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2041 £875/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2041 £1,125/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

DOMAINE TRAPET

2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

CHAPELLE-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU

LATRICIÈRES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU

A stone's throw from Clos de Bèze, there used to be a small chapel here, built in 1155. Fine clay and limestone bedrock (above which “there is no soil”, according to Louis Trapet) make for fine, rich, expressive wines. We tasted this in November 2023 with Louis, who stressed that it is “always very hot in Chapelle”. Only two thirds of the domaine’s 0.6 hectares here are currently in production (they will be back in the 2022 vintage). The vines are nearly 60 years old on average. Aromas of dark berries, currently with a whiff of reductive smoky bacon. The palate is dense and rich, poised between red and black fruits, with a ripe, cosseting approachability, offset against powerful chalky minerality on the finish. 60% whole-bunch fermentation.

This 0.75 hectare parcel was bought in 1904 by Jean-Louis Trapet’s great-grandfather, in the year of his son’s birth. It was the first of the domaine’s grands crus, in which the oldest plantings date from 1938. Latricières is fabulously sited on gravelly soils, close to the Combe Grisard side valley, from which cool air flows. This makes for a longer growing season which, in turn, can enhance intensity and complexity. Dark, peppery and spicy aromas. The palate is strikingly pure – this is a cool, focused, darkly perfumed wine of texture and very fine, intricate, fruitcoated tannins. Violet perfume permeates the palate. So good. 60% whole-bunch vinification.

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2040 £3,125/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 19 Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2041 £3,125/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

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CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU To Order Bought in 1919, this enviable 1.9 hectare holding in the great grand cru of Gevrey consists of three parcels – south, centre and north, providing an overview of the climat. At the bottom of the slope, there is limestone and marl, then fine clay and, higher up, white marl, which slows down the growing cycle. A toasty nose, when tasted in November 2023, leading into a tense, acid-driven palate which develops richness and force as it progresses. A high-octane wine which remains embryonic at this early stage but has all the components required to blossom in years to come. 60% whole-bunch vinification. Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2030 - 2045

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01875 321 921 sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.

£3,950/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £3,980/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

DOMAINE TRAPET

2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

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