CHÂTEAU TROTANOY, 2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR by corneyandbarrowltd

2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UNITED KINGDOM

“Not for the first time, this is JP Moueix’s star this year.” NEAL MARTIN, MAY 2022

TROTANOY 2021 Uncompromising If I had to sum up Trotanoy in one word, it would be ‘uncompromising’. This is a wine that exists at the edge of the possible, requiring a maniacally intense vineyard regime in order to unlock the potential of its harsh soils. While the clay-rich surface soil is concrete-hard in dry summer weather and slippery when wet, the sub-soil is a mille-feuille of Pomerol’s famous crasse de fer. Literally meaning ‘iron dirt’, this is a hard, iron oxide-rich earth made of compacted sand and stones, surely key to Trotanoy’s majestically compressed, brooding character. To wrest such a powerful, compelling wine from the turbulences of the 2021 season is no mean feat and one to which the Moueix team has risen magnificently. Not only is this a star of the family properties in 2021, it is a Trotanoy which holds its own against recent highperforming vintages. We are again also offering a mature vintage of Trotanoy’s second wine, Espérance de Trotanoy. The brilliant 2015 vintage of Espérance may help to bridge the gap while you are waiting patiently to drink your 2021s.

GUY SEDDON July 2022

THE HISTORY The vines of the 18th century ‘Trop ennuie’ formed the western extremity of Pomerol.

Only the central plateau was planted with vines at that time, whilst on today’s map of Pomerol, Trotanoy sits almost dead centre, due north of the village of Catusseau. By the 19th century, Trotanoy had the twin distinctions of being Pomerol’s joint-largest volume producer and being ranked second in quality – behind Vieux Château Certan and ahead of Petrus.* Trotanoy can therefore be seen to owe its longstanding importance in the Pomerol fabric to both its historical size and its increasingly dominant geographical location. Various plots were sold off over the years to settle inheritance expenses. One former parcel forms the core of today’s Château Latour à Pomerol. By 1908, the holdings had been reduced to a still-fairly-substantial 18 hectares. Jean-Pierre Moueix (pictured opposite) purchased Trotanoy in 1953. This was both his most significant acquisition to date and the turning point in the estate’s history. Under the steely resolve of Jean-Pierre and later the nurturing hand of his son Christian Moueix, Trotanoy rose to the position it holds today.

Bordeaux et Ses Vins, Cocks et Féret, 1868

Jean-Pierre Moueix

THE VINEYARD The first impression of Trotanoy’s soils is of a sea of white pebbles, which shine piercingly in the sun. These retain heat, helping protect against frost. They also become treacherously slippery when wet, whilst the clay beneath bakes solid in dry summers – hence ‘Trop ennuie’ – ‘too much’, ‘too difficult’...

The 7.2 hectares of vines here are planted partly on the western extremity of the plateau, partly on a west-facing slope. There is deep gravel at the top and progressively more clay as you descend. The subsoil contains sand and then a rock-hard layer of iron-rich soil, Pomerol’s famous crasse de fer. The map to the left was drawn by Kelley Moueix, Édouard’s wife. As it shows, the vineyard comprises six parcels. The cypress-lined entrance is flanked by Entrée Gauche and Entrée Droite. Along with La Marinette (south-east, towards Le Pin), these have some of the deepest gravel soils in Pomerol. To the north-west are Le Hangar and Les Argiles, the latter named for its heavy clay soil. La Piscine lies behind the château, with Latour à Pomerol beyond. The last significant replanting was a parcel of Merlot in 2002. Old vines prevail, the average age being nearly 40 years. The plantings are 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, although the blend in 2021 is once again 100% Merlot. On average, only 20,000 bottles are produced per year.

Map reproduced with kind permission of Neal Martin, Wine Journal Publishing and Kelley Moueix.

VINEYARD HOLDINGS 2021 VINTAGE Size (hectares)

2021 Vintage Blend

Average Vine Age (yrs)

Soil

Average Production (doz)

7.2

100% Merlot

Gravel on clay and black clay on iron pan

1,670 dozen bottle cases

Credit Benjamin Duvignac

THE CELLAR The approach at Trotanoy was initiated by the great JeanClaude Berrouet, who over five decades made some of the most legendary Pomerols, including at Trotanoy and Petrus. It is, quite simply, to intervene as little as possible. Jean-Claude Berrouet’s last complete vintage at Trotanoy was 2006, when he was succeeded as technical director for Établissements Jean-Pierre Moueix by Éric Murisasco. Éric had worked as cellar master alongside Jean-Claude since 1993, meaning continuity was and is assured. The grapes are sorted and fully de-stemmed. An optical grape sorter is on hand if required, having been used at all Moueix properties since 2009. Following fermentation and maceration for around three weeks in temperature controlled concrete vats, at a relatively low 26°C, the wine ages for 20 months in French oak barrels, 40-50% of which are new. It is fined with egg whites, with no filtration.

THE GROWING SEASON The 2021 season opened with a rainy and mild winter, resulting in an early and uneven budbreak, between 24th and 27th March. This early development put the young buds at great risk of a spring frost. Frost duly materialised during the nights of 6th and 7th April, when temperatures dropped to -3 and -4°C. Candles and wind machines were deployed across Pomerol, including at Trotanoy, raising temperatures by 2°C and thereby holding off the worst of the frost. Flowering “unfolded very nicely”, in Édouard Moueix’s words, amid glorious weather at the end of May. June and July were “mostly gloomy”, with a few hot and sunny periods in the middle of each month. Under such conditions, véraison (colour change) occurred slowly. August was dry and nearly made up for the previous lack of summer sunshine. Once véraison was complete, the team set to work to “compensate for nature’s deficiencies”. This task was more important than ever at the 100% Merlot Château Trotanoy. As Édouard said, with some emphasis, “We take care of our Merlot.” The weather forecast, which had announced rain before harvest, fortunately was proved wrong, vindicating the team’s brave decision to wait for optimal ripeness. Picking was regimented, with one person per row, rather than the traditional two pickers facing each other. In addition to being quick, this complied with Covid protocols. Harvest at Trotanoy took place from 27th September to 4th October, under good conditions. We tasted Trotanoy 2021 in Libourne, at Moueix HQ, on the morning of Saturday 23rd April 2022, then again in London in early May. It was consistent on both occasions – consistently good, as can be seen from Adam’s note.

THE ALLOCATION PROCESS The nature of En Primeur means stocks are limited. We use our exclusive relationships to secure as much as possible. You can always order with confidence from Corney & Barrow.

Édouard Moueix

The nature of En Primeur means stocks are limited. We use our exclusive relationships to secure as much as possible. You can lways order with confidence from Corney & Barrow. • The focus of Château Trotanoy and Corney & Barrow is on the private customer and as a consumer rather than a speculator. • The wines are bought on the clear understanding that they will be stored and delivered in the UK only. • Should you wish to sell the wines in the future, do please offer Corney & Barrow first refusal as this will ensure the integrity of secondary market distribution, something which is of great concern to Château Trotanoy and Ets. Jean-Pierre Moueix.

• Priority will be given to Ets JP Moueix’s, Château Trotanoy’s and Corney & Barrow’s best, most loyal and most regular customers. As detailed above, all orders are conditional upon UK storage only. Do please speak to our sales team, who will be delighted to help you further. May we please have your order by Thursday 21st July 2022. Allocations will be completed by Wednesday 27th July 2022. Confirmation of order will be through receipt of invoice and the wine will be put into your reserve on payment.

TASTING NOTES Espérance de Trotanoy 2015

Château Trotanoy 2021

Tasting note by Guy Seddon

Tasting note by Adam Brett-Smith

Trotanoy’s second wine, Espérance de Trotanoy, is released once bottled. It comes from the younger vines of two deep gravel parcels at the heart of the estate, ‘La Piscine’ and ‘Entrée Droite’. Re-tasted in July 2022, Espérance 2015 is a delight, just embarking on its mature phase, with leather, truffle and mushroom aromas emerging from the pure dark berry fruit. The melded palate is reassuringly powerful, the dense blackberry fruit lifted by fresh acidity, with brambly undertones. 14.5% abv.

What I scribbled in the margin cannot, alas, be repeated in print. It was a somewhat Anglo-Saxon comment, brief, actually monosyllabic, to describe how Trotanoy shrugs off, imperiously and decisively, the difficulties of the growing season.

Adam’s original tasting note for Trotanoy 2015 called the grand vin, “Unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage and about as perfect an illustration of why Pomerol is the sweet spot in 2015... Manages to be both aristocratic and a bruiser at the same time. Brilliant.” Exclusive to Corney & Barrow in the UK Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from Now -2028 £435/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

This is, of course, a profoundly great vineyard, steeped in history and famous for its very dense mixture of clay and gravel soils which are very hard to work – “trop ennuie” – hence the rolling into the name Trotanoy. It is small in size – 7.20 hectares (17.8 acres), majestic in reputation and once again, in 2021 it is 100% Merlot. Opaque ruby colour. The nose is fathomlessly deep, subliminally earthy with elusive hints of plums, violets and old, old rich, red fruit. The palate has that characteristic dry-rich Trotanoy quality with a superbly extracted concentration and structure. The tannins are super-fine and cloaked in dark, svelte fruits with a burst of freshness to the impressively long finish. Measured, calm and authoritative, this is quite outside the context of the vintage as if to say, “I am Trotanoy”. Exclusive to Corney & Barrow in the UK Corney & Barrow Score 18Recommended drinking from 2030 - 2040 £1,450/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £1,460/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK £1,020/Case of 1 double magnum, in bond UK Vineyard size: 7.2 hectares (17.8 acres) Soil types: Gravel on clay and black clay on iron pan 2021 vintage blend: 100% Merlot

Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.

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