Domaine de Villaine, 2018 vintage En Primeur release by corneyandbarrowltd

RULLY CÔTE CHALONNAISE 2018 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR NEW CORNEY & BARROW UK EXCLUSIVITY

“Love the great whites of the Côte de Beaune? Get to know the premiers crus of Rully too, before everyone else does...” GUY SEDDON February 2021

THE ONE FOUDRE OF RULLY 1ER CRU RABOURCÉ

INTRODUCTION “Back to the future” I can’t tell you how excited we are, after many years of discussion to be finally offering, exclusively in the UK these six 1er Cru Rullys from Domaine de Villaine. Quite apart from the very close personal relationship we are lucky enough to have with Pierre de Benoist (and his uncle Aubert de Villaine) we think it is the first time that any Merchant has ever presented an offer devoted entirely to a single Domaine of six Rullys - from the warmer north eastern Rabourcé, Raclot and Les Cloux vineyards to the more southern (but so very close!) Montpalais, Les Margotés and the exquisite Grésigny.

Each is profoundly different, each very small in size, each cultivated biodynamically, but all are a joy and profoundly authoritative marker put down in an area that has been underestimated for too long. A little bit of history in the making? Perhaps. What is certain is that these are great wines, we believe they will open your eyes to what is achievable outside the conventionally grand parts of the Côte de Beaune and at a fraction of the price… Guy Seddon has written a brilliant offer, and we are proud to have been entrusted with the UK launch and exclusivity for these lovely wines. I rather wish there were a little more of them to share with you…

ADAM BRETT-SMITH FEBRUARY 2021

THE NEWLY RENOVATED DOMAINE DE VILLAINE, RULLY

THE DOMAINE’S ORIGINS IN BOUZERON Domaine de Villaine was bought by Pamela and Aubert de Villaine in 1971. They had moved to Burgundy for Aubert to take up the position which he holds to this day, of co-director of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in Vosne-Romanée. Preferring to live outside the Côte de Nuits, Pamela and Aubert settled on the tranquil village of Bouzeron, in the picturesque, wooded Côte Chalonnaise. There are still fewer than 200 people living in the village, which lies immediately to the north of Rully. Although Aubert was presumably kept busy in VosneRomanée, he found time to produce wine in Bouzeron too. Domaine de Villaine’s first vintage was 1973. Alongside the domaine’s Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Aubert was particularly impressed by the quality of the Aligoté. Six years later, in 1979, the appellation Bourgogne Aligoté de Bouzeron was created (simplified to just Bouzeron in 1997). Thanks to the focus of a core of quality producers such as Domaine de Villaine, the previously overlooked Aligoté grape is currently enjoying a well-deserved renaissance. Bouzeron has the distinction of being Burgundy’s sole Aligoté-only appellation.

AUBERT DE VILLAINE AND PIERRE DE BENOIST

PIERRE DE BENOIST Aubert de Villaine’s nephew, Pierre de Benoist, is co-owner of Domaine de Villaine and has run it since 2000. Pierre comes from a wine family – his father Philippe de Benoist owns Domaine du Nozay in Sancerre, which today is run by Pierre’s elder brother, Cyril. Rather than following in his brother’s footsteps however, Pierre chose to study law in Paris. Pierre maintained an interest in wine during his student days, tasting widely and working for a Paris merchant in his spare time. When his uncle Aubert offered him the chance to manage Domaine de Villaine in 1998, despite the understandable initial reluctance of a young man in an exciting city, Pierre’s career path soon became clear. In 2000, Pierre moved to Burgundy and took over the management of the domaine.

THE DOMAINE EXPANDS TO RULLY Domaine de Villaine’s links to Rully stretch back to 1991.

That was the first vintage of Rully Les Saint Jacques, a much-loved Rully village, which we still offer as part of the C&B annual January Burgundy release. However, the story of the Rully premiers crus starts 20 years later, in 2011, with the addition of Rully 1er Cru Grésigny. The next acquisition, in 2015, was of plots in the Rully Premiers Crus Montpalais and Margotés. Domaine de Villaine’s first vintage from these plots was 2016. They added a total of 2.21 hectares to the domaine’s holdings.

The most recent acquisition was born out of an old friendship between Pierre de Benoist and the Bodard family, owners of Rully’s Domaine Saint-Michel since the 19th century. Pierre had in fact made the wines for them in 2004 and 2005, but it was not until 2017 that they offered him the chance to buy the estate. As Pierre tells it, with typically understated excitement, the domaine’s premiers crus – Rabourcé, Raclot and Les Cloux – made it “difficult to refuse”. (The domaine buildings are also beautiful – the majestic vaulted cellars would be ideal for a dinner – watch this space…) The purchase went through that same year, 2017. Having sold off some parcels of Pinot Noir and nonpremier cru Chardonnay, Pierre began converting the remaining plots to organic and biodynamic viticulture swiftly thereafter. The property was renamed Domaine de Villaine, adding a further 5.68 hectares and increasing the domaine’s holdings to 29.33 hectares. If you are perplexed, as I was, by the philosphical implications of two Domaine de Villaines, think of it as one entity, which just happens to have two sets of domaine buildings. Vinification and élevage of the Rullys will take place in Rully and the Aligoté (and the much-loved red Mercurey) in Bouzeron. Simple really. Whilst Bouzeron and the Aligoté grape will continue to be fundamental to the domaine’s DNA, this represents an exciting shift in its centre of gravity towards Rully and top flight, terroir driven Chardonnay.

THE HOLDINGS Rully’s warmer sites, such as Rabourcé, Cloux and Raclot, are in the north of the appellation. The lower elevation and greater protection from the wind are the main factors here. These are also the most steeply sloping sites. To the south of the hamlet of Agneux is a second range of sloping hillsides, where Montpalais, Grésigny and Margotés are located. The contiguous Grésigny and Margotés, which lie south west of Montpalais, are the most frost-prone of the sites, meaning Pierre ploughs the soil here deeply and prunes very late, so as not to disturb the sap. The domaine’s Rully holdings cover a total area of 36 hectares (ha), of which 30ha are cultivated directly by the domaine and 6ha are leased to another grower.

THE 2018 GROWING SEASON High rainfall during the winter replenished the soil water reserves and prepared them for the summer drought that followed.

For this reason, although we think of 2018 as a ripe year, an année solaire, Pierre describes it as being defined by both moisture and heat.

it did not rain until harvest. Despite the ratcheting water deficit throughout the rest of the summer, the vines were able to draw from those all-important soil water reserves.

Following the 2017 harvest, Pierre recalled that the vines were already wearing their “autumnal garb of tawny, golden and purple colours”. The period from October to January was wet, humid and barely cold enough for the vines to become properly dormant. October 2018’s rainfall in the Côte Chalonnaise was 150% that of October 2017, obliging the domaine to limit ploughing and work on the soil.

Now things sped through. Pierre recalls how the “ultrafast growth” was felt especially acutely by his team in the three new plots (Rabourcé, Raclot and Cloux). As he says, “We didn’t know how these vines would react to the change in viticulture. The move from conventional agriculture to an organic and biodynamic one, was it not going to weaken them, and make them more prone to diseases?” Fortunately, he concludes, “There was none of that.” The team’s experience prevailed.

Winter only really started in February, which finally saw some cold temperatures, even freezing towards the end of the month. March had more seasonal temperatures but heavy rainfall (120mm, more than 50% above average). This further topped up the water reserves. However, the growth of new buds was slow and laboured. It was not until April, when temperatures rose, that vegetative growth stepped up a gear. The warm and bright weather prompted a quick, even “dazzling” budbreak (Pierre’s word). May’s very mild temperatures allowed flowering to take place under very good conditions. The point of mid-flowering was reached between 29th May and 3rd June. The first half of June, however, was wet and cool, only warming up in the second half of the month. From then on,

July and August, despite inconsequential thundery episodes, were very warm, with a heatwave from 3rd to 7th August. The heat and lack of water delayed véraison (colour change), but the grapes ripened evenly, thanks also to a disease-free canopy. The health of the vines was “impeccable” and weather conditions remained summery for the duration of harvest, which started on 30th August. The plots in Rully were picked first, finishing on 12th September with the Aligoté vines in Bouzeron. Pierre spoke of “incredible levels of maturity” in 2018 and summed up the vintage as one “endowed with exceptional weather conditions… enabling us to offer you equally exceptional wines.”

TASTING NOTES Due to the small size of certain plots, there is very little availability of Raclot, Monpalais and Grésigny. Please bear this in mind when ordering.

RULLY 1ER CRU RACLOT

RULLY 1ER CRU LES CLOUX

2018 is Domaine de Villaine’s first vintage of Raclot. A 0.42 hectare plot, the oldest vines of which are 35-40 years old. A delicate white flower nose, with white peach fruit, green citrus and a touch of honeysuckle behind. The palate is more generous, offering a winning balance of honeyed stone-fruit with stony mineral precision. Impressively rich, with a wonderfully pure-fruited, salty finish. Vinified in eight old barrels and one 600 litre demi-muid.

2018 is Domaine de Villaine’s first vintage of Les Cloux. 1.11 hectares, in two steep east-facing plots, with stony clay-limestone soils. Pierre confesses this is a favourite of his, with a “silhouette of Puligny-Montrachet”. A very fine, mineral-driven nose, with white flowers. The palate has wet-stone minerality, a little flinty reduction and phenomenal purity, very light on its feet, with a touch of toasty richness on the mid-palate and salty-bitter notes on the finish. Aged in oak foudres.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2026

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2027

£249/Case of 6 bottles, In Bond UK

RULLY 1ER CRU MONTPALAIS

RULLY 1ER CRU LES MARGOTÉS

This small plot in Montpalais, made by the domaine since 2016, is under 0.40 hectares and planted with 10-15 year old vines. 15% Chardonnay Muscaté, a clone which gives a floral, exotic edge, bringing a little aromatic flair. The palate is strikingly pure, stone-fruited, bristling with chalky mineral tension, dry extract and peppery spice. Then that floral lift on the finish, approachable and attractive. You could easily drink this now. Just 2,500 bottles were made.

Margotés is the domaine’s southernmost Rully vineyard, with a core of 80 year old vines, surrounded by plantings from the 1960s. Pierre has one hectare here, spread over three plots. Spicy, white peppery, with ripe white peach fruit on the nose and honeysuckle. The palate is tangy, orange zest and quince pepping up the pure apricot fruit, bringing a crackle of energy and drive. Almonds and chalky minerality on the long finish. Vinified in large foudres.

Corney & Barrow Score 17-17.5 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2026

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18 Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2026

£249/Case of 6 bottles, In Bond UK

RULLY 1ER CRU GRÉSIGNY

RULLY 1ER CRU RABOURCÉ

A 0.55 hectare plot of venerable 80 year old vines on rocky clay and limestone, bought sight unseen by Pierre in 2011, such is its reputation as one of the finest vineyards in Rully. Pierre says that his visits to Grésigny, like those to his grandmother, are made with great respect… A tactile wine, more textural than aromatic, with cool white peach fruit. One of those rare wines which offer a direct communion with the soil and the place from which it comes. Around 2,500 bottles.

2018 is Domaine de Villaine’s first vintage of Rabourcé. This is a 2.36 hectare holding, spread over three plots. White clay soils. A flinty nose, some struck match rigour, which plays nicely with opulent yellow stone-fruit – very inviting. Peach and apricot at the core of the midpalate mingle with stony, chalky minerality and detailed aromatics dancing above. Vinified in one new oak foudre, giving a cedary richness, with more than enough fruit density to balance it out.

Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2027

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18 Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2026

£249/Case of 6 bottles, In Bond UK

Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.

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