DOMAINE JACQUES PRIEUR, 2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR

Page 1

DOMAINE JACQUES PRIEUR 2019 VINTAGE EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UNITED KINGDOM



“I represent the seventh generation of winemakers in our family and I want there to be seven more generations.” ÉDOUARD LABRUYERE


DOMAINE JACQUES PRIEUR 2019 Domaine Jacques Prieur (DJP for short) was established in 1868. The vineyard acquisitions were started by Jacques Prieur’s predecessors and continued by Jacques himself, who also went on to co-found the famous Chevaliers du Tastevin in 1934. The Labruyère family arrived in Meursault, where DJP is based, in 1988. Their Domaine Labruyère is the oldest estate in Moulin-à-Vent. Building on the extensive holdings of the Prieur family, the late Jean-Pierre Labruyère and his son Édouard Labruyère have taken DJP to the next level.

4

Technical Director Nadine Gublin was appointed in 1990 and is now rightly seen as one of the leading winemakers in the region. At the helm since 2008, owner Édouard Labruyère exudes energy and focus. His recent online presentation for C&B customers (link here) gave a measure of the man and his vision for the Labruyère family estates. We have been the domaine’s exclusive UK agent since the 2013 vintage. Over those seven vintages, the wines have established themselves as core cogs in the C&B system. We love them – and our customers seem to quite like them too. The notes in this offer are based on an online tasting with Nadine in December 2020, with the C&B London and Edinburgh teams both in attendance. Not the same as tasting face-to-face but a pretty good substitute and involving more of the team than usual. The samples were pristine and we left buzzing with excitement about the 2019 vintage.

GUY SEDDON February 2021


5


HISTORY The Domaine Jacques Prieur story started on 24th February 1868, with the marriage of 22 year-old Claude Duvergey to 19 year-old Marie Taboureau, both from vigneron families. Claude Duvergey (1847-1920) m. Marie Taboureau

Henri Prieur m. Hélène Taboureau

Jacques Prieur (1893-1965) 1879: Claude buys a château in Meursault, Les Herbeux, which remains the heart of Domaine Jacques Prieur to this day.

VINEYARD ACQUISITIONS – A BUSY TWO YEARS…

6

1889: Meursault Clos de Mazeray Monopole Volnay Santenots 4.5 hectares of Clos Vougeot 1890: Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Santenots (in its entirety) Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes Le Montrachet

1891: Claude and Marie are childless. Marie's niece, Hélène Taboureau, marries Henri Prieur from Beaune. 1893: Henri and Hélène’s son Jacques Prieur is born.

MORE VINEYARD ACQUISITIONS… 1895: Musigny Vineyard swap: Clos Vougeot plot for Chambertin and Clos de Bèze 1907: Chevalier-Montrachet

1920: Claude Duvergey dies on 9th March and bequeathes his estate to Jacques Prieur. 1924: Jacques Prieur and Comte Jules Lafon establish the famous Paulée de Meursault. 1956: Following Jacques’ mother’s death, the estate is renamed Domaine Jacques Prieur. 1965: Jacques Prieur dies, followed in 1974 by his wife, leaving the domaine to their six children. 1988: Five French families, including the Labruyères, acquire the domaine. 1990: Nadine Gublin appointed Technical Director. Grands crus of Corton-Bressandes and Corton-Charlemagne added shortly after. 2008: Arrival at the domaine of Édouard Labruyère.


THE VINEYARDS From Chambertin to Chevalier-Montrachet – you name it, Domaine Jacques Prieur is likely to have vines there… Le Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Le Musigny, Clos de Vougeot, Échézeaux, Corton-Bressandes, CortonCharlemagne, Chevalier-Montrachet and Le Montrachet – plus a host of premiers crus traversing Beaune, Volnay and Meursault, where the domaine is located. THE HOLDINGS The domaine’s 21 hectares have been worked organically since 1997 and biodynamically since 2009. AREA IN HECTARES (HA)

AVERAGE VINE AGE IN 2019 (YEARS)

Chambertin (including Clos de Bèze)

0.9

44

Musigny

0.8

48

Clos Vougeot

1.2

40

Échézeaux

0.4

46

Corton-Bressandes

0.8

44

Corton-Charlemagne

0.2

58

Chevalier-Montrachet

0.2

54

Montrachet

0.6

43

Gevrey-Chambertin

0.9

24

Beaune Rouge Champs-Pimont

2.1

45

Beaune Blanc Champs-Pimont

1.4

26

Beaune Rouge Clos de la Féguine Monopole

1.6

15

Beaune Blanc Clos de la Féguine Monopole

0.3

28

Beaune Rouge Grèves

1.2

43

Beaune Blanc Grèves

0.5

16

Volnay-Champans

0.3

Replanting

Volnay Clos des Santenots Monopole

1.2

53

Volnay Santenots

0.6

24

Pommard Charmots

0.3

74

Meursault-Charmes

0.1

53

Meursault-Perrières

0.3

35

Meursault-Santenots

0.2

18

Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes

1.5

29

Meursault Rouge Clos de Mazeray Monopole

0.6

26

Meursault Blanc Clos de Mazeray Monopole

2.6

33

GRANDS CRUS

PREMIERS CRUS

VILLAGES

7


8

THE CELLAR Winemaker Nadine Gublin destems most of the Pinot Noir, although there are notable exceptions, in particular Pommard-Charmots 1er Cru, which is habitually 100% whole-bunch fermented. There is a double sorting table, to ensure the grapes are pristine. Red wine maceration lasts around 20 days, consisting of three to five days of cold soak at 14˚C before fermentation, with a post-fermentation maceration of five to seven days, protecting the surface with a cap of carbon dioxide. Pigeage, or punching-down, is done twice a day for the first

three days of fermentation, then once a day thereafter, but with no pumping-over. New oak is around 50-80% for the grands crus and 20-30% for the premiers crus. For the white wines, the grapes are pressed immediately using a pneumatic press and transferred to stainless steel vats for 12-14 hours’ settling. Around 20 months’ élevage is the norm, with 100% malolactic conversion. Since 2007, there has been no bâtonnage (lees stirring). Only natural yeasts are used. Since 2008, the red and white wines have been made in separate cellars to keep their different natural yeast strains separate.


THE TEAM When not busy at Domaine Jacques Prieur, there is the small matter of the other three Labruyère family estates… Domaine Labruyère in Moulin-à-Vent was established in 1850. Édouard Labruyère has run the family’s estates since 2008, when he took over from his late father. The family also owns Château Rouget in Pomerol and Champagne JM Labruyère, a recently founded champagne grower-producer in Verzenay, Montagne de Reims.

Édouard Labruyère

9

Édouard Labruyère was born in 1976 at the original family domaine in Moulin-à-Vent. Following a short period in the diplomatic service, he returned to the world of wine in 2003, working as a courtier in Bordeaux from 2003 until 2008. He has run the family wine estates since 2008.

Nadine Gublin

Daniel Godefroy

Nadine Gublin has been head winemaker at Domaine Labruyère since 1988. After a decade at the domaine, she was named ‘Winemaker of the Year’ by the Revue du Vin de France, the only French woman to have been so recognised.

Daniel Godefroy has been in charge of the vineyards of Domaine Jacques Prieur since 1997. Born into a winemaking family in the Loire’s Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, he worked in Alsace for twelve years, five of which were spent at Domaine Zind-Humbrecht.

This page’s images © Domaine Jacques Prieur


2019 VINTAGE NOTES “Spring frost, a long flowering period, heat during fruit-set and drought in the summer... The weather had a heavy impact on production levels.” NADINE GUBLIN, DECEMBER 2020

10


After an exceptionally mild 2018-2019 winter, the vines started growing again in the second half of February, “abnormally early”, as Nadine related. Then mild early spring temperatures lead to budburst from 1st April, once again exposing the vines to the risk of frost. These fears were realised in the cold weather of April, with frost on 5th and 14th weakening the development of the buds. May was also cool, meaning growth remained slow. A warm June then “unblocked, in a dazzling way”, the growth of the vines. Flowering, which had started fitfully amid cool weather at the beginning of the month, extended over a fortnight, culminating quickly as temperatures soared around 20th June.

The preceding temperature fluctuations had, however, resulted in significant coulure (undeveloped grapes). Rain storms and a heatwave at the end of July coincided with a particularly uniform véraison (colour change), which reached 50% by mid-August and 80% by the end of the month. September was once again hot, with patchy rainfall, causing water stress in some vines. Harvest started with the Côte de Beaune whites, on 9th September, 8-9 days earlier than expected at the end of flowering. Although defined on one level by its small crop, the 2019 vintage was one of exceptionally healthy grapes, with a perfect sugar/acidity balance.

The vines now started to grow at a “frantic pace” and by mid-July, the bunches were ‘closed’, or fully formed.

11


12


RED WINES

BEAUNE 1ER CRU CLOS DE LA FÉGUINE MONOPOLE

POMMARD-CHARMOTS 1ER CRU

This is a 1.59 hectare monopole premier cru within the pebbly Coucherias vineyard, beneath the wooded Montagne de Beaune. South-facing, on very thin, stony clay-limestone soil. 100% destemmed. Playful and upbeat, very aromatic and with the most delightful strawberried lightness of touch, this is a pick in 2019. Aged in 25% new oak. Being bottled in February 2021.

Charmots lies above Les Épeneaux, in the heart of Pommard. Characteristically sappy and exotic on the nose, thanks to the 100% whole-bunch fermentation, which softens its innate power. Joyful raspberry, forest fruits, raspberry and firm, grippy tannins. This is a sensitive expression of Pommard but one which respects its muscular essence, with a dry savoury finish. 50% new oak, but of a type more commonly used in Champagne, with very little oak flavour.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2032 £325.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2035 £570.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

BEAUNE 1ER CRU CHAMPS PIMONT

MEURSAULT ROUGE CLOS DE MAZERAY MONOPOLE

Pimont means the foot of the hills – the ‘Piedmont’ of Burgundy… It is a 2.06 hectare plot, part of which is being replanted. There is a high proportion of clay here, with more topsoil than elsewhere. Smokier and spicier as always, this is the Beaune premier cru with the greatest ageing potential. 100% destemmed this year, with ageing in 25% new oak. This will be the last of the premiers crus to be bottled, in April 2021.

The majority of this vineyard – a DJP monopole – is planted to Chardonnay, but there are 0.6 hectares of Pinot Noir, from which this wine is made. The nose is very exotically spiced, leading into a fresh, sappy palate with firm, fine tannins framing the lush raspberry and wild strawberry fruit. Harvested on 18th September. 50% whole bunch fermentation. Only two barrels were produced.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2038

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2029

£285.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

£350.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

13


VOLNAY 1ER CRU SANTENOTS This is the younger vines cuvée of Clos des Santenots, the vines in this plot being 24 years old. It is 100% destemmed, accentuating its pure, sweetly black-fruited tenderness. Sweet spices with supple blackberry and raspberry fruit. In Nadine’s view, the difference between this and Clos des Santenots (below) is smaller than ever in 2019 and I would have to agree. This was the first of the reds to be picked, on 13th September. Approachable relatively early, but it will age too. 30% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2033 £515.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

VOLNAY CLOS DES SANTENOTS 1ER CRU MONOPOLE

14

These 60-70 year-old vines are in Santenots du Milieu, the central lieu-dit, with the most powerful expression of Santenots (and arguably of Volnay). There is more aromatic finesse on the nose here compared to the young vines cuvée, with a little more plushness and roundness to the mid-palate, and the fabulous depth of fruit accompanied by a fine yet firm tannic chassis which will repay longer term cellaring. 30% new oak, 100% destemmed. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2040+ £685.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU These are the young vines (24 years old) of Chambertin Grand Cru, voluntarily declassified to premier cru status, from all five of the domaine’s parcels in Chambertin and Clos de Bèze. Inky dark berries, very pure and with a plushness that works with the fresh acidity to lift the bitter cherry aromatics on the palate. A fine tannic frame is reinforced by 60% new oak. Picked 19th September, 100% destemmed. Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2036 £585.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK


THE GRANDS CRUS CORTON-BRESSANDES GRAND CRU

MUSIGNY GRAND CRU

The gently sloping Bressandes is one of the earliestmaturing Pinot Noir sites on the hill of Corton. Dark and ingratiatingly peppery on the nose. The sweet raspberry fruited palate is thrown into relief by spicy, rocky minerality, the counterpoint of beguiling and serious, open and closed making for a complex wine which should age wonderfully. Picked 16th September. 45% whole-bunch fermented. 60% new oak.

This 0.76 hectare parcel of nearly 50 year old vines is in t he southern part of Les Petits Musigny, just above the Clos de Vougeot. Floral and spicy, with soaring dark berried aromas (‘wintry’, I jotted down), conjuring up the proximity to those limestone cliffs, with a touch of coffee bean. The palate is supremely chalky-mineral, with a sense of dry extract and a nervy tension. Fine yet muscular tannins, a majestic wine. All destemmed.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2036

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2040

£695.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

£1,695.00/case of 3 bottles, in bond UK

CLOS DE VOUGEOT GRAND CRU

ÉCHÉZEAUX GRAND CRU

This 1.28 hectare parcel lies at the heart of the large claybased Clos de Vougeot vineyard, just below the holding of Château de la Tour. As an experiment, a small proportion of the crop was barrel-fermented, without pressing the berries first. These four barrels, representing less than 10% of the total, have added a wonderfully soft sucrosity and a vibrant dash of strawberry and red cherry fruit. This sweet core is surrounded by darker berries, giving a playful lift to this serious, age-worthy wine.

The domaine has 0.4 hectares of Échézeaux, in the lieu-dit Les Champs Traversin, planted perpendicular to the slope, meaning that the cool winds from the Combe d’Orveau side valley make for a very slow, steady ripening process. A dancing, aromatic nose of rose petals and dried spices. Nadine, who has vinified it since 1996, says “I like this terroir, it is always great.” Such elegant finely fruitcoated tannins and gorgeous silky raspberry flavours, with clearly enormous ageing potential. 100% destemmed, 60% new oak.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2040+

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2040

£795.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £1,195.00/case of 3 bottles, in bond UK

CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU This is from 0.9 hectares, from the domaine’s combined holdings in Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Bèze (perhaps the last year we will see them blended). Very fine black pepper and earthy minerality on the nose, with cedary spice. The palate’s cool blackberry and red cherry fruit is effortlessly classy – “regal” even (as Will Hargrove enthused). The fruit ripeness keeps coming, sustaining the finish. 60% new oak, all destemmed. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2040 £1,145.00/case of 3 bottles, in bond UK

15


WHITE WINES “2017, with greater ripeness and more yellow fruit” Nadine Gublin, on the domaine’s white wines in 2019

16

BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY

BEAUNE BLANC 1ER CRU GRÈVES

This is made from just under a hectare of vines, beside the domaine in Meursault, opposite Clos de la Barre. Very pure, crunchy white peach fruit and a touch of green melon, then a salty finish. A wine of verve and energy. Picked 11th September. Half was vinified in a new 30hl spherical concrete vat, which seems to have accentuated the wine’s freshness and focus. No lees stirring.

These are among the youngest of the domaine’s vines, but planted in arguably the greatest terroir in Beaune. A stony/gravelly half-hectare plot planted in 2006, the first vintage from which was 2009. A citrussy nose of lemon and orange rind, with green apples. The palate is zesty and precise and with grippy definition on the finish reflecting the chalky soils of Grevès.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2024

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17 Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2026

£150.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

£295.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

BEAUNE BLANC 1ER CRU CHAMPS PIMONT

BEAUNE BLANC 1ER CRU CLOS DE LA FÉGUINE MONOPOLE

Champs Pimont is a 1.4 hectare holding, with a high proportion of white marl which, as in CortonCharlemagne, can give a marked sense of stony mineral bite. White stone-fruit with honeysuckle aromas. The palate is inviting and full bodied, with orange blossom and yellow flowers, finishing salty-mineral and precise. Vinified in a mixture of 30% foudres and 70% barrels, with an average of 15% new oak.

Clos de la Féguine is a small parcel, a monopole of just 0.27 hectares, at the top of the slope, west of Grèves. White-grey, stony limestone soils – perfect Chardonnay territory. These are nearly 30 year old vines. Pastry and hay on the nose, with white peach fruit coming through on the palate. Dense and energic, with orange blossom and honeysuckle, then a chalky-mineral bite on the finish. So expressive. Picked 14th September. 20% new oak.

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5+ Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2025

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2026

£255.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

£315.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK


MEURSAULT CLOS DE MAZERAY MONOPOLE Although this is the domaine’s only village holding, it is a special wine, being a monopole, in sole ownership. It is almost three hectares in size: a respectable chunk of Meursault, in the centre of the appellation, just south of the village. Apricot and peach, exotic and expressive, with lots of pithy pink grapefruit and a hint of lychee. A wine to make you smile, as Nadine says. It was vinified half in foudre, half in barrel, with an overall total of 25% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2026 £310.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

MEURSAULT 1ER CRU SANTENOTS This is a 0.8 hectare site, next to Domaine Marquis d’Angerville’s plot. The domaine’s Santenots holdings were replanted from Pinot Noir to Chardonnay in the 1990s. The first white vintage was 2000. This tends to be an excitingly bare bones, no-makeup style of Meursault, all about the limestone tension. We were not able to taste it however, as it had been recently racked. Anticipated drinking from 2024 - 2030 £400.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

MEURSAULT 1ER CRU PERRIÈRES The domaine’s holding in Perrières is a tiny parcel, 0.3 hectares of three decade-old vines. A beautiful nose, of struck match minerality and fine white peach, super classical. A powerful yet oh-so-refined palate, “as if you eat the wine”, as Nadine says. This was among the first plots to be harvested, on 9th September. 50% new oak, which it takes in its stride effortlessly. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030 £865.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

17


PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU COMBETTES

CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET GRAND CRU

The domaine’s Combettes is made from a 1.49 hectare plot in this most majestic of the Puligny premiers crus. A little orange blossom on the nose and weighty white peach fruit behind. The immense extract of the palate is matched by a taut line of acidity – a wine of energy and pithy citrus, with flashes of grapefruit. Then a clipped salty-mineral finish. An astonishing level of ripeness, which it handles brilliantly. Picked 9th September, among the first sites to be harvested. A third new oak.

A tiny 0.2 hectare holding of 50+ year-old vines, on the thin stony upper slopes where Chevalier-Montrachet meets Montrachet. White peach and honeysuckle aromas. The palate delivers both intense richness of stone-fruit and a saline, spicy, nervy finesse. A long, driving finish. Picked on 9th September, among the earliest of the sites. Only two barrels were produced.

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2030 £495.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

18

Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2029 £1,195.00/case of 3 bottles, in bond UK


MONTRACHET GRAND CRU

CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU

The Great White – of which the domaine has 0.6 hectares, in two plots, on the Chassagne-Montrachet side. As Nadine says, “This is not aromatic – we eat this wine.” DJP’s Montrachet has the classic ripeness and exuberance of peach and apricot, rooted in the Côte de Beaune and yet somehow above and beyond it, apart from it, in its own realm. The 2019 has a particularly taut, close-knit texture, with phenomenally forceful, chalky energy – elemental. This will stay in barrel until June or July 2021.

Of the great white grands crus, Corton-Charlemagne sits alone at the northern end of the Côte de Beaune. This geographical distance is reflected in a totally different personality. These vines are on the high slopes of the hill of Corton, on the mineral-rich white marl soils. This had been recently racked so was one of two wines which we were unfortunately not able to taste in December.

Corney & Barrow Score 19 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2034

£1,250.00/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

Anticipated drinking from 2024 - 2032

£1,875.00/case of 3 bottles, in bond UK

19

Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. Wines are scored out of 20. Customers seem to like it and it has the benefit of simplicity. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.



CONTACT US LONDON 1 Thomas More Street London E1W 1YZ T +44 (0)20 7265 2400 sales@corneyandbarrow.com

NORTH OF ENGLAND Sedbury Stables, Sedbury Hall, Richmond, North Yorkshire DL10 5LQ T +44 (0)1748 828 640 sedburyorders@corneyandbarrow.com

EAST ANGLIA Belvoir House, High Street, Newmarket, Suffolk CB8 8DH T +44 (0)1638 600 000 newmarket@corneyandbarrow.com

EDINBURGH Oxenfoord Castle by Pathhead Midlothian, Scotland EH37 5UB T +44 (0)1875 321 921 edinburgh@corneyandbarrow.com

AYR 8 Academy Street, Ayr Ayrshire, Scotland KA7 1HT T +44 (0)1292 267 000 ayr@corneyandbarrow.com

FACEBOOK @corneyandbarrow

TWITTER @corneyandbarrow

INSTAGRAM @corneyandbarrow

www.corneyandbarrow.com


www.corneyandbarrow.com


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.