GERMANY 2023
WEINGUT WWE. DR. H. THANISCH, ERBEN THANISCH
GERMANY 2023 AT C&B
Taking the lead from our newly launched ‘Jigsaw’ series, we are delighted to release our Germany 2023s in one combined offer. This is a total overview of the high-quality 2023 vintage at all three estates in the C&B Germany portfolio.
As followers of our German list will know, we work with two estates in the Mosel — Wwe Dr H. Thanisch, Erben Thanisch — and JJ Prüm, and one in Pfalz — A. Christmann. Christmann is exclusive to C&B in the UK, whilst Thanisch is exclusive to us in the UK, Hong Kong and Singapore.
Will Hargrove and I visited in August. As usual, we arrived early in Luxembourg, spent the first day tasting in the Mosel and then headed southeast to Pfalz. We stayed in the pretty town of Neustadt ahead of a morning with Steffen and Sophie Christmann.
Although 2023 was not without its fluctuations, as Christina Thanisch commented, after a rainy August, “Nobody expected [such high] late summer temperatures and dry days during the harvest. We are delighted with the high quality across the vineyards.” This final burst was key to
the style of the 2023s, which are refined, with real presence and age worthiness.
Katharina Prüm used adjectives such as “classic”, “elegant”, “fine” and “bright” to underscore the difference between 2023 and the warmer 2022 season. Sophie Christmann called 2023 “neither as acidic as 2021 nor as round as 2022”, drawing a comparison with long-lived vintages such as 2015, 2017 and 2020.
The 2023s are a hugely promising set of wines, in which the full range of richness levels has been made in the Mosel and in which each individual site's specificity is on display. And don’t miss the brilliant Christmann Spätburgunders, from the 2021 vintage this year — some of our best-loved Pinot Noirs, which give their neighbours over the border pause for thought. We will be standing by for your orders.
GUY SEDDON HEAD OF FINE WINE BUYING
JANUARY 2025
WEINGUT WWE. DR. H. THANISCH, ERBEN THANISCH
GE R MANY
JOH JOS PRUM
FRANKFURT MOSEL
RHEINGAU
FRANKEN
PFALZ
WEINGUT A. CHRISTMANN
STUTTGART
A SHORT GLOSSARY OF GERMAN WINE TERMS
KABINETT
This term was originally derived from the English word ‘cabinet’ which, before the German wine law of 1971, was used as a mark of quality wines. Kabinett is the ‘lowest’ (least rich) of the six German wine Prädikats. Mosel Kabinetts are particularly light in alcohol and might be described as off-dry.
SPÄTLESE
Literally ‘late harvest’, within the Prädikat hierarchy, Spätlese is a step up in richness. At their best, Spätlesen combine Riesling’s power with its versatility, allowing both grape variety and terroir to shine.
AUSLESE
Meaning ‘selected harvest’, Auslese is another notch up in volume. Auslesen may also have some botrytis, or ‘noble rot’, contributing to the sense of honeyed richness. In the best examples, this is balanced against the Mosel’s signature steely acidity.
BEERENAUSLESE
This means ‘berry selection’ and indicates a further level of richness. BAs are made from botrytised grapes, with must weights into triple figures on the German Oechsle ripeness scale. Extremely long-lived wines, only made in the best years.
GOLDKAPSEL
Goldkapsel, ‘GK’, or ‘Goldcap’ refers to the gold capsule around the neck of these bottles. An unregulated term in Germany which has become widely used in the Mosel to denote an additional level of quality.
ERSTE LAGE
Literally first (class) site — broadly equivalent to premier cru in Burgundy.
GROSSE LAGE
The best vineyard sites — broadly equivalent to grand cru in Burgundy. A site capable of producing a Grosses Gewächs (see below).
GROSSES GEWÄCHS
A ‘GG’ is a dry wine from a single vineyard Grosse Lage site. It must be harvested at a ripeness equivalent to at least Spätlese level, but then fermented to Trocken.
TROCKEN
THE VDP CLASSIFICATION PYRAMID
A - VDP Grosse Lage (think grand cru – e.g. Chambertin)
B - VDP Ertse Lage (think premier cru – e.g. Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru)
C - VDP Ortswein (think village – e.g. Gevrey-Chambertin Villages)
D - VDP Gutswein (think regional – e.g. Bourgogne Rouge)
WEINGUT WWE.
DR. H. THANISCH, ERBEN THANISCH
BERNKASTEL-KUES, MOSEL
“A very rainy August was followed by a golden autumn. Nobody expected these late summer temperatures and dry days during the harvest. We are delighted with the high quality across the vineyards.”
CHRISTINA THANISCH
The 2022/2023 winter was mild but with heavy rainfall. The water was extremely welcome after the relatively long drought the previous year.
Budding began at the end of April and was fortunately not disturbed by late frosts. Warm weather in May and June encouraged foliage growth and timely flowering, which began in the middle weeks of June.
At the end of July, temperatures dropped to between 7 and 13 degrees. Riesling thankfully resisted these conditions hardily, the berries storing liquid and the must weights increasing.
In September, the weather stabilised and on the 25th, picking started with a small team. A week later the entire team started. The dry wines, including the GGs, were now the focus of the harvest. This was followed by the berries for the Kabinett wines and in the 2nd and 3rd weeks of October, the riper grapes for Spätlese and Auslese.
Doctor vineyard
THANISCH 2023 TASTING NOTES
KABINETT
THANISCH ESTATE RIESLING KABINETT
The Estate Riesling comes mainly from vineyards around Kues, on the left bank of the Mosel. Lemon and lime aromas with a slaty mineral bite. Juicy peach and pear on the palate, refreshed by marked acidity, with green apple skin texture and lemon zest. 10.5% abv. Bottled in April 2024 under screwcap.
Corney & Barrow Score 17
Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2028
£95/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE RIESLING KABINETT
This forms a pair with the Feinherb (below). The only difference is the length of fermentation, which here is halted earlier, making this a touch richer and allowing a nice low alcohol level of 9% abv. This is characterful and plumper than the Feinherb — a joyful wine. You can drink this on its own with no problem. Juicy apricot and lime zest, underpinned by stony minerality. Bottled under screwcap in April 2024.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2033
£120/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE RIESLING KABINETT FEINHERB
This ferments for slightly longer than the ‘straight’ Kabinett (above), resulting in a marginally drier style. Slaty minerality, with ripe pear and peach fruit, shoots through with a bite of stony extract. 10.5% abv. Bottled under screwcap in April 2024. Of this pair of wines, this is the clear option for food pairing.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2033
£120/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BERNKASTELER LAY RIESLING KABINETT CUVÉE CHRISTINA
This is a selection from the Lay vineyard, named after Christina Thanisch. The first vintage was 2019, which was a Spätlese. Depending on the vintage, this can be either a Kabinett or a Spätlese. White flower perfume, with pretty green citrus and crushed slate aromas, leading into a palate of very pure lemon extract, lifted by fresh acidity and with pops of sherbet and lemon rind. Two barrels only — one new and one older. Bottled in May 2024. 8.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2032
£140/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BERNCASTELER DOCTOR RIESLING KABINETT
The Doctor Kabinett: a legend in the Mosel. A highly mineral nose, with the same smokiness as the Doctor GG when tasted in August 2024. The palate is pure and zesty, limey and cleansing on the entry, before finding a stonefruited richness and power on the mid-palate. 8.5% abv. Bottled in May 2024. Fermented and aged in traditional 1000L oak vats.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2039
£195/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£210/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK
BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE RIESLING SPÄTLESE
“A year for really classic, elegant Spätlese wines” was Christina Thanisch’s comment while pouring this. Crème brûlée and apricot on the nose, with lime cordial and a touch of pepper. The palate is fleshy and yellow-hued on the entry, opening onto a zesty mid-palate of yellow peach and honeycomb. A lingering sense of extract and ripeness. 9% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2033
£135/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BERNCASTELER DOCTOR RIESLING SPÄTLESE
The majestic Doctor vineyard looms beneficently over you as you taste at the estate. Wonderful slaty, smoky aromas with bright green lime zest. The palate is lean and focussed, driving and energetic, with lemon rind and chalky extract. “Having body, strength and elegance at the same time is really the secret,” in the words of Sofia Thanisch. 8% abv. Fermented and aged in traditional 1000L oak vats.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2040
£245/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£260/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK
BERNCASTELER DOCTOR RIESLING SPÄTLESE #7 AUKTION
This is the estate’s sole auction bottling in 2023, from the steeply sloping Doctor vineyard, a constant presence out of the corner of your eye as you taste at the estate. This just a 300L volume of wine, originally selected in the vineyard and then raised separately. The nose has that trademark Doctor smokiness, allied to a yellow peach and apricot ripeness. On the palate, fleshy stone fruit and pure stony minerality mingle. The equivalent of just 360 bottles was produced.
Corney & Barrow Score 19
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2046
£95/(Loose) bottle, in bond UK
£300/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
BERNCASTELER BADSTUBE RIESLING AUSLESE
2023 is the first vintage since 2020 in which the Thanisch family have chosen to bottle a Badstube Auslese. Their holdings are at the southern end of this large vineyard, close to the town of Bernkastel. Honeysuckle and green citrus aromas, with celery and a clipped sense of stony minerality. The palate is voluminous yet light of touch — an expansive, rich wine which comes to a focussed, chiselled point. Very impressive. 8% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2045
£185/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BERNCASTELER DOCTOR RIESLING AUSLESE
The Berncasteler Doctor, so called since the 14th century for the restorative effect of its wine, is a 3.21-hectare jewel overlooking the city of Bernkastel. It is the smallest of the Mosel’s Grosse Lagen, the top classified sites of the region. As for the previous wine, 2023 sees the first release of an Auslese bottling since 2021, when just one barrel was made. Joyful lime zest, quince and citrus fruit on the nose, this is an extrovert, with a palate of citric verve, fleshy apricot and a clipped stony mineral purity to the finish. 7.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2045
£335/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BERNCASTELER DOCTOR RIESLING AUSLESE SELECTION
The Berncasteler Doctor Auslese Selection is only made in select vintages. Its most recent appearance at C&B was in the 2019 vintage. The wonderfully flamboyant, some might say kitsch, label dates from 1880. In 2023, this wine clocked in at 115° Oechsle on the German ripeness scale. A refined nose of cool citrus and zesty lemon, which then reveals rich, intense botrytis aromas. The palate is focussed on the entry, with a building sense of rich apricot and quince, coupled with marmalade and honey. Wonderful. 8% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 19
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2045
£595/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BERNCASTELER DOCTOR RIESLING BEERENAUSLESE
What a treat to have a Beerenauslese in this year’s offer. Pale lemon-gold in colour. Intense and multifaceted, this offers apricot, tangerine leaf, kumquat, lychee and orange rind, all sustained by nervy, citric acidity. A luscious wine, with admirable precision. Honey and marmalade notes linger on the long, tapering finish. 6.5% abv. Hard to score such a hedonistic outlier, hence the range — but I loved it.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 19
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2045
£99/(Loose) half bottle, in bond UK
The Thanisch house, on the banks of the Mosel, opposite Bernkastel
GROSSES GEWÄCHS
These two wines sit apart from the rest of the Thanisch line-up in that they are totally dry. As such, they are labelled Grosses Gewächs, or ‘GG’s, a pan-German term for the highest quality tier of dry wines, which come from Grosse Lage sites (similar to Burgundy’s grands crus). Some producers, including Thanisch, choose to include the word trocken on the label also, to underscore that these are bone dry wines. Around 20% of the Doctor goes into the Doctor GG.
BERNKASTELER GRABEN RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS (TROCKEN)
Bernkasteler Graben is a cooler site, adjacent to the Doctor vineyard. As Christina explains it, the style of Graben, made since 2015, is “really straight and clear”. The vines are 60-80 years old. The family has a 0.5hectare holding here, all of which is reserved for the GG. Bottled in August 2024, two days before we tasted it. An imposing, steely nose of green melon and aromatic limes, leading into a palate of nervy citrus fruit, sustained by bright, easy acidity. 12% abv. Fermented and aged half in stainless steel tank, half in a 10hl old oak vat.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2040
£180/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BERNCASTELER DOCTOR RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS (TROCKEN)
One of the top sites of the Mosel, the Doctor is a relatively warm vineyard. Spicy, smoky green citrus aromas, with a hint of fleshy voluptuousness. The palate offers wetstone minerality, chalky extract, lemon rind and limey acidity. Fabulous purity, with a beguiling fruit coating to the minerally texture. Finishes clipped and precise, with a lingering saltiness. Bottled in August 2024, two days before we tasted it. 12.5% abv. This is fermented in one 10hl old oak Mosel foudre and one stainless steel tank. It stays on its lees until February, when it is racked into stainless steel.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2040
£245/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£260/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK
JOH JOS PRÜM
WEHLEN, MOSEL
Founded in 1911 by Johann Josef Prüm, the estate known today as JJ Prüm has become a luminary in the village of Wehlen, the wider Mosel and the world of German wine.
Johann Josef was succeeded by his son, Sebastian, who died in 1969, in turn handing over to his two sons, Manfred and Wolfgang. Katharina is Manfred’s daughter. She has been at the estate since 2003.
Joh. Jos. Prüm’s 13.5 hectares of vineyards are ideally located opposite the village of Wehlen, at the centre of the famous sweeping run of vertiginously steep slopes which are responsible for some of the world’s greatest and most age-worthy white wines.
The western side of the Mosel is flat, whilst over on the eastern bank, the gradient reaches 65% in places. Directly opposite JJ Prüm’s riverfront house lies the Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard, its name standing proud in large white letters on a lower terrace and in the centre, the famous sundial from which it takes its name.
Astonishingly, ungrafted vines account for almost 90% of the estate – as Katharina explained, “phylloxera doesn’t like slate”. (New plantings of ungrafted vines have not been allowed since 2006). The average vine age around 40 years.
THE 2023 VINTAGE, IN THE WORDS OF KATHARINA PRÜM
“A classic vintage, with all the Prädikats expressed very well… A very pure, elegant, fine, sensitive vintage.”
KATHARINA PRÜM
“2023 started rather mild, and humid. March in particular brought a lot of rain, and this continued to a lesser extent through April, so that the soils were well watered (33% more precipitation than usual at this point). April was relatively cool however, causing budbreak to happen only at the end of the month.
May and June were rather dry. While May was still mild, June turned hot and dry, 25º and even 30°C being attained. These conditions accelerated the growth of the canopy and flowering went well.
July had had more rain and was even warmer (max. 35°C). August was similar, though with even more rain and fewer warm days. Unusually, the temperatures hardly dropped in September — they were, on average, 3.5°C higher than average.
Harvest started on 18th September and finished on 11th October, which is an early record. (In 2021, 11th October was the start of picking!) Since temperatures stayed warm even in October, and ripening continued quickly, we made sure to finish the harvest as fast as possible.
We harvested all Prädikates from Kabinett to Beerenauslese, with a focus on the Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese levels. Some beautiful botrytis was selected to produce a very nice range of Goldkapsels, Long Goldkapsels and Beerenauslese.
Overall, the wines of the 2023 vintage are classic in style, very pure and bright, with refreshing acidity and fine ripeness.”
The Kabinetts and Spätlesen were bottled in late June 2024; the Auslesen and Goldkapsels in August.
THE VINEYARDS
BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE
Bernkasteler Badstube lies to the southeast of the Prüm house, facing back across the river towards BernkastelKues. The slopes here are marginally less steep than in the other holdings (although steepness is all relative here!) The vines are afforded longer exposure to the afternoon sun. The wines, consequently, have a tendency to be a little more flamboyant in youth, with a marked mineral tension.
GRAACHER HIMMELREICH
The Graacher Himmelreich vineyard faces southwest and has deeper soils than Wehlener Sonnenuhr, which is sometimes described as Graach’s older brother. This soil depth provides excellent water reserves. The wines tend towards fine acidity, pronounced minerality, white flowers and spices. These can be earlier-drinking wines. The vineyard is shaded from the sun in the early part of the morning.
WEHLENER SONNENUHR
Directly opposite the family home, over the river, Wehlener Sonnenuhr is a fabulously sited and steeply sloping vineyard. It is the jewel in the Prüm holdings and one of the grandes dames of the Mosel. The name refers to a sundial constructed by Jodicus Prüm in the vineyard. There are five hectares of old, low-yielding, ungrafted vines here. An Einzellage (single vineyard plot), Wehlener Sonnenuhr produces wines defined by their warmth and impressive age-worthiness.
The Prum house, on the opposite bank of the Mosel from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard
KABINETT
JOH JOS PRÜM 2023 TASTING NOTES
BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE KABINETT
Although Badstube has the most westerly aspect of the Prüm Kabinetts, resulting in greater afternoon sun exposure, Katharina explained that it tends to be leaner in style, perhaps due to its gentler slopes. Spritz and delicate top notes of white flowers and green apple skin, with lime zest. Katharina commented, “I like the lightness and charm of this vineyard.” 9% abv. Bottled in late June 2024.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2039
£135/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
GRAACHER HIMMELREICH KABINETT
Graacher Himmelreich is a cooler site, with a more moisture-retentive soil. More yellow fruited generosity and warming demerara sugar on the nose here, versus the leaner Badstube. This is a strident expression of the vintage, with bold peach and apricot flavours on the palate. 8.5% abv. Bottled in late June 2024.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2039
£150/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
WEHLENER SONNENUHR KABINETT
The Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard is directly opposite the house and is the nerve centre of the estate. Honeysuckle and warming summer aromas, with macadamia nuts, white pastry and nougat. The palate is extract-laden, tactile and with bountiful perfume rising above the flavours of apricots and toasty nuts. Bottled in late June 2024. 8.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2040
£160/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£190/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK
SPÄTLESE
GRAACHER HIMMELREICH SPÄTLESE
JJ Prüm has over eight hectares in Graach, a cool stretch of the river between Wehlen and Bernkastel. Perhaps it was a Graach day when we tasted, but the wines of this vineyard were showing beautifully — this is open and pure, with lacy textures and bright acids accentuating its stony clarity and pretty lime fruit. 8% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2040
£165/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
WEHLENER SONNENUHR SPÄTLESE
Wehlener Sonnenuhr is the centre of the Prüm world — this is the vineyard directly opposite the family house. White peach and pastry on the nose, which is quieter and more taciturn than the Graach. The palate is taut and citric on the entry, opening onto a mid-palate of tactile, rich lime fruit. Measured and classy, this evolves in the glass rather wonderfully. Great ageing potential. 8% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 19
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2045
£195/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£225/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK
AUSLESE
GRAACHER HIMMELREICH AUSLESE
Friable white pastry aromas. The palate offers white flowers and taut, lemony acidity. The fresh acid backbone is more than a match for the rich mineral and stone fruitinflected palate. I jotted down ‘stealth sweetness’... The overall impression is stony-mineral, clean and clipped — no mean feat for a wine of such richness. This will age beautifully, unwinding over two decades and more. 8% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2048
£195/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
WEHLENER SONNENUHR AUSLESE
Bright yellow flowers and apricot aromas, with nettles and a hint of mushroom on the nose. The palate offers tarte au citron and caramelised apple, the honeyed richness balanced against nervy, tensile acidity. A complex wine which will offer top quality drinking for decades to come. So finely wrought — very impressive. 8% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 19
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2050
£225/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£130/Case of 6 havles, in bond UK
AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL
WEHLENER SONNENUHR
AUSLESE
GOLDKAPSEL
2023 is the first vintage of the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkapsel since 2020, and 2019 before that. Demerara and lime rind aromas — a nose of latent intensity. The palate opens with an electric zing, startlingly pure, piercingly bright. Orange rind, exuberant grapefruit and pithy citrus fruit flavours dance around a core of deep, powerfully rich stone fruit, lifted by taut acidity. 8% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 19+
Recommended drinking from 2032 - 2050
£350/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£370/Case of 6 halves, in bond UK
WEINGUT
A. CHRISTMANN GIMMELDINGEN, PFALZ
Steffen started working at the family winery in 1994, making this his 30th year at the estate. As he says, “Where we
are today was hardly imaginable back then.”
The idea of resting on laurels or taking things easy doesn’t exist here. We love selling the wines of Christmann because, quite simply, we know they will give joy and makes buyers feel smart…
Steffen and Sophie Christmann are the family’s 8th and 9th generations. Steffen, who is also president of the German VDP growers’ association, has 25 years of experience here. His daughter Sophie returned to the family estate from Geisenheim viticultural school several years back.
The estate is located in the village of Gimmeldingen, the centre of the Mittelhaart area. An exciting recent sister project is Sektgut Christmann & Kauffmann, a sparkling wine venture with Mathieu Kauffmann, ex-cellar master at Bollinger.
The estate of 20 hectares dates back to 1798.
DISCOVER MORE
Steffen and Sophie Christmann
WEINGUT A. CHRISTMANN
RIESLINGS
As has been the case for the past two years, the Christmann range now begins with Aus den Lagen, a blend of Erste and Grosse Lagen from across the estate. All the other wines are now single-vineyard Erste and Grosse Lagen.
The Rieslings in this release are from the 2023 vintage, whilst the Pinot Noirs are from 2021. Following trials which began in 2015, the estate has used Diam composite corks (Origine 30) for its Rieslings since the 2021 vintage.
The Pinot Noirs remain under natural cork.
AUS DEN LAGEN RIESLING
The Aus den Lagen (‘from the sites’) Riesling. It comprises 10-20% of each of the family’s single-vineyard sites, with around 20% coming from Idig itself. Bright white peach fruit, refreshed by tangy acidity, with orange blossom and tangerine rind. Nice stony minerality. Around 20,000 bottles were produced. Bottled in early July 2023, as were all the subsequent Rieslings. 12% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2029
£140/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
ERSTE LAGEN
GIMMELDINGER KAPELLENBERG
RIESLING
Kapellenberg, in Gimmeldigen, forms the southeast slope of a vineyard situated high in the foothills of the Haardt mountain range, with cooling breezes from the nearby forest. A chapel below the vineyard gives the site its name. A bright golden colour, with ripe white and yellow peach aromas and a touch of nutmeg. The palate opens fleshily, the upfront peach and apricot fruit receding to reveal a mineral underlay, with lemon zest, tangy acidity and a salty, precise finish. “A really good seafood wine”, in Steffen’s words. For the Chablis lovers! 12% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2036
£215/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
KONIGSBACHER HEIDBÖHL RIESLING
This is the family’s first Riesling from the Königsbacher Heidböhl vineyard. These vines were planted in 1995. Heidböhl is a continuation of Idig to the east, towards the Rhine plain. It is cooler than its big brother. Red sandstone and limestone soils make for a certain spiciness and stony minerality. South-southeast facing, at 145-158masl. 10% slope. Yellow stone fruit, with stony minerality and a mineral-citric back-palate. Integrated acidity — nicely poised. Harvested 26th September 2023. Bottled July 2024.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2047
£215/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
RUPPERTSBERGER REITERPFAD RIESLING
Reiterpfad is a large, gently sloping terrace. It was formed over thousands of years and consists of red sandstone boulders from the Haardt mountains. This is a warmer site than Kapellenberg, as seen from the bright, more overtly fruity aromas of peach and yellow flowers. The palate is fleshy on the attack — honeysuckle and honeycomb, finding a citric precision on the mid-palate lemon rind and a little spritz at this early stage lifting the flavours, aided by poised acidity. 12% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2036
£225/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
GROSSE LAGEN
THE GROSSES GEWÄCHS
MEERSPINNE RIESLING GG
One of the coolest GGs, planted on soils of loess, loam and a little limestone. The Christmanns have 1.1ha here. Last year, Sophie described it as, “the coolest and the slimmest — salted lemons!” Meerspinne is a Grosse Lage sub-plot of Mandelgarten, dating back to 1456. Today, it is considered the best plot in Gimmeldingen. A gorgeous nose of crushed rock minerality and citrus rind, leading into a nervy palate of lemon and crunchy green apple. The finish is salty and mineral, a delight. 12% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2040+
£390/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£140/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
ÖLBERG-HART RIESLING GG
Ölberg-Hart is a cool site and the furthest north of the GGs, right behind Idig — it is a GG inside an Erste Lage. Steffen and Sophie Christmann have 0.8ha here. Hay, citrus rind, apricot and nutmeg aromas. The palate is juicy and wet-stone mineral, with a gentle spritz to the mid-palate and taut acidity sustaining the tangy lemon zest flavours through to a long, playful finish. Light on its feet, but deceptively so — there is impressive power beneath the surface here. The heavier soils — lime marl, so-called terra fusca — mean this is always the most powerful of the Rieslings, according to Sophie. 12% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2047
£390/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
VOGELSANG NEUSTADT RIESLING GG
Its name meaning ‘birdsong’, this is described by Sophie as “the second pillar of our estate [with Idig].” 3.5ha of hard limestone makes for a driving, linear style of Riesling. Located at the end of a deep, broad valley, which enjoys warm days and cool nights. Quieter on the nose, this appears to be biding its time. The palate has a warming ripeness — apricot and fleshy peach fruit, with a tightly knit structure and nicely poised acidity. Give this time — I suspect it will be excellent with patience. “For us, it’s on the same level as Idig, but a very different expression”, said Steffen. Around 5,000 bottles are produced. 12% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18+
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2048
£410/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
IDIG KÖNIGSBACH RIESLING GG
This Grosse Lage is one of the most highly rated sites in Pfalz. The Christmann family owns the majority: 4ha of the total 6.5ha. Over half of their holding is planted to Riesling. Idig’s tertiary limestone soils result in higher PHs and a softer, more open-knit texture. Fine crushed rock minerality on the nose, citrus and pear fruit with riper peach behind. The palate is saturated with flavour — yellow and white flowers, ripe peaches and a touch of apricot. A tactile wine of shape, extract and tannic presence. Wonderful. 12% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2049
£425/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£145/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
THE 2021 VINTAGE: PINOT NOIR
Based on her experience in France and Baden, Germany, Sophie Christmann introduced some winemaking changes from the 2017 vintage, which was the first in which she took charge of the Spätburgunder production. These changes included larger fermentation tanks and a greater reliance on pumping-over rather than punching-down, as well as shorter post-fermentation maceration and less new oak. Four vintages on, this approach is working wonderfully.
Over 16 years of biodynamics helps too of course, although in Sophie’s opinion, it is the calcareous marl soils, similar to those found in Burgundy, which really let the estate’s Pinot Noir shine.
The 2021 Pinot Noirs were all bottled in April 2023.
AUS DEN LAGEN SPÄTBURGUNDER 2021
As for the Riesling, this new wine is a blend of Erste and Grosse Lage sites from across the estate. Dark berries and pepper. The palate is leafy with a little farmyard and cheese rind: quite savoury. Re-tasted in August 2024, a year after our initial tasting, this had acquired an elegance and polish. Such a contrast to the fleshier 2022s. There is 15-20% whole bunch fermentation in 2021. 8,000 bottles. 13% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030
£185/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
MUSSBACH ESELSHAUT SPÄTBURGUNDER 2021
A new wine for the 2021 vintage. This is a south-facing plot on the plateau. 165-178masl, with 10% gradient and red sandstone soils. Pure, dark berries, with leafy savouriness. A wine for lovers of old-school Burgundy. It really opened with a few minutes in the glass, developing in stature and red-berried concentration. 13% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030
£200/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
GIMMELDINGER SCHLOSSEL SPÄTBURGUNDER 2021
This is an Erste Lage site, first made as a wine in its own right in 2019. It is between Kapellenberg and Idig. “Always the fruitiest and the most accessible when young,” according to Sophie Christmann. There is more spicy whole bunch character here. Supple and the most red-fruited so far. Joyful fruit, framed by supple fruitcoated tannins. 13% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2034
£245/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
KÖNIGSBACHER
ÖLBERG SPÄTBURGUNDER 2021
Ölberg is a high, sloping Erste Lage site in Königsbach, recognised as one of the best in Pfalz. It benefits from morning sun and late afternoon shade. As at Idig, limestone marl and the brown earth known as ‘terra fusca’ predominate — clay and loam. Shy when tasted in August 2023 but had come out of its shell rather wonderfully a year later, with a building presence of nicely poised red and black berry fruit, all framed by elegant, fruit-coated tannins. 13% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2035
£315/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£115/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
GIMMELDINGER BIENGARTEN SPÄTBURGUNDER 2021
This Erste Lage vineyard consists of steep terraces in the Haardt hills between Gimmeldingen and Königsbach. The site is protected from cold winds by a small hollow in the hillside. “Our Clos St-Jacques — my hidden favourite,” according to Sophie. More fruit weight here, with a deft red-berried, insistent ripeness. 100% old vines, planted in 1982. 13% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2034
£445/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£155/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
VOGELSANG NEUSTADT SPÄTBURGUNDER GG 2021
Its name meaning ‘birdsong’, Vogelsang is described by Sophie as “the second pillar of our estate [with Idig].” The Pinot is 100% massal selection, from Burgundy. Pretty, intricate rose aromas and exotic whole bunch spices, leading into a palate of impressive depth and red-berried ripeness, held together with a sappy tension and elegant tannins. Lovely wine. 13% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2047
£475/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
IDIG SPÄTBURGUNDER GG 2021
The Grosse Lage Idig vineyard is one of the most highly rated sites in the Palatine region, making this the flagship holding of the estate. Grosses Gewächs, or GG, can be seen as comparable to grand cru status in Burgundy. 75% of Idig was planted in 1975, the rest in 2008 — this is a synthesis of the former two. The exotic spice aromas had integrated nicely when re-tasted a year on, in August 2024. The palate shows fabulous bright red berry fruit, with impressive matter and presence, defined by a sappy tension to the palate, making for a focussed, driving style. Something of a flagship for German Pinot Noir. 13% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2035
£580/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£195/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
Sophie & Steffen Christmann
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