THE WINES OF IL MARRONETO by corneyandbarrowltd

THE WINES OF Il MARRONETO THE 2021 RELEASES

EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN HONG KONG

“Alessandro Mori makes some of the most elegant and age-worthy Brunellos in Montalcino” Kerin O’Keefe in her book Brunello di Montalcino.

INTRODUCTION Back in mid-September I was cut loose to head to Italy. It was a two-part journey to, arguably, the two most beautiful wine regions anywhere. After spending a couple of nights in Piedmont I travelled five/six hours south to Montalcino where I visited and tasted at Soldera before a splendid dinner in Montalcino itself. The next day I had two visits arranged courtesy of our French Italianophile Thibaut who you will know well.

When mentioning Il Marroneto and specifically Alessandro Mori to fellow wine enthusiasts they immediately smiled; an encouraging response. It can be dangerous when an estate comes with a reputation, especially a good one. I rehearsed a dry run to check where to find the estate – this comes from the experience because wine estates and ‘SatNav’ aren’t always “on the same page” as it were. I am glad I did because the estate is not easy to find and not easy to get to – but then uniquely brilliant sites tend to be like that. From the moment I met Alessandro and got chatting (I was his first visit for some time) I had a great feeling. He is a warm, engaging and generous man with a singular focus bordering on obsession. What he doesn’t do (read further on) is as important as what he does. Alessandro comes from a long line of lawyers but gave that up for wine (a little like Gianfranco Soldera and insurance). He had two mentors in Mario Cortevesio and Giulio Gambelli, rather than “two” mentors I should say “the” mentors such was their deserved gravitas with all things Sangiovese. Cortovesio was the key man for Alessandro. We cannot and would not pretend to have discovered Alessandro and Il Marroneto, that was for others before us, however having our first allocation is a real joy. I could not stop smiling as I drove south to Rome – I already look forward to being back there. The wines are superb!

WILL HARGROVE Head of Fine Wine November 2021

BACKGROUND TO THE ESTATE

Key Dates 1246

Original building that becomes the cellar

1973

Giuseppe Mori first visits the property

1974

Giuseppe Mori buys Madonna delle Grazie, on the northern edge of Montalcino

1975

Vineyard founded; 0.3 hectares planted

1976

First harvest

1979

Additional 0.3 hectares planted

1980

First bottling of Brunello di Montalcino (1,855 bottles)

1984

Final 0.9 hectares planted

1990s

Vineyards further expanded

1994

Alessandro takes over full time

2007

First bottling of Il Marroneto “La Madonna delle Grazie” single vineyard

Alessandro Mori

THE VINEYARD & CELLAR The estate’s name comes from the central tower that was once used to dry chestnuts (Marroni) which was then used as flour. The site here (350m to 400m above sealevel) has a joyous breeze and the view is sublime. The estate sits in the northern part of the Brunello zone not far from the walls of Montalcino itself.

“Let the grape be what it wants – don’t force it to be a “lawyer”, to be a “doctor”, let it be what it wants!” Alessandro Mori

9 The vines are tended and grown organically, yields are kept low – in their 30s (hl/ha) or below. When it comes to the cellar, as I mentioned in the introduction it is the things Alessandro doesn’t do that may well be key: No added yeast (“our” yeast is “everywhere”) No selection-table (do it in the vineyard) No temperature-control (let it be) No barrel/botti has ever left the property As well as tasting the wines for this offer when I was there, we tasted, almost all the barrels of 2020s. The winery was alive, the yeast already getting to work on the just picked 2021s seemingly giving all the other barrels a lift as well. Whilst there is a precision and care taken at every step the wines reflect the energy and life in both the estate and Alessandro himself.

“Passion, Patience and Cleaning” Alessandro’s three “Must haves”

WHEN AND HOW TO DRINK THE WINES OF IL MARRONETO

Personally, I feel the biggest missed opportunity occurs when people assume these are bold, rich wines that have to be aged for extended time. These wines are gorgeous at any stage of their evolution. Tasting from Botti convinces me of that. They will age exceptionally well but to not drink these wines in youth, as well as with age, is an error. The Rossos do offer a real chance to get a feel for the estate but should certainly not be viewed as “Junior”. A great wine is always a great wine and this is another estate that proves just that… Whether to decant or not is often a personal choice. I would serve from the bottle but pour early and enjoy the wine developing in the glass.

THE VINTAGES 2019

The Brunello Consorzio has already rated this vintage as one of five stars. In terms of the climatic conditions, 2019 was not exactly consistent: Heavy rain in the spring ended up being a blessing during a near heat wave in June. July was also hot but was followed by some, much needed rain in August that rejuvenated the vines. Post the August rain temperatures remained warm and dry, with a big difference between day and night. These conditions carried on during the harvest, which ran from the first weeks of September and into October.

2017 Things were cool and relatively wet from the outset in 2017 but then things changed. June was dry and very warm. This pattern continued through the summer, everything looked set for a very, very early harvest. However, September brought some very desirable rain, which helped to balance out ripening before the harvest ended. The upshot is a low yielding yet exciting vintage.

THE WINES ROSSO DI MONTALCINO IGNACCIO 2019

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO ANNATA 2017

So poised, juicy, spicy but at the same time wonderfully mellow, a little saline comes in and the fruits are so red and pure. Forget the fact this says it is a Rosso! Vibrant and exciting. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2033+

Violets and red fruit, some new leather and spice, this is moreishly hedonistic. Whilst using hedonistic I am also drawn to use elegant, the two don’t seem an obvious combination but they are here. A little pepper comes in on the palate, this doesn’t strike me as a wine that will close down or sleep. Very long, a joy! Corney & Barrow Score 18+ - 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2038+

£145/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

£345/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

ROSSO DI MONTALCINO SELEZIONE IACOPO

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO SELEZIONE MADONNA DELLA GRAZIE

2019

2017

A botti (barrel) chosen specifically by his son, barrel no.18 as it goes. The choice to do this reflecting the fact his son is now fully involved. The wine is a joy, a little step up in every way from the other Rosso before it. Intense yet fresh. Exuberant and extrovert – somehow “Gourmand” (excuse the French) and yet proper. If there’s a better “Rosso” I’ve never come across it.

Heady and glorious, this is superb. Bold and bright with delicious high-toned fruit and a real focus. The fruit character makes me think of tiny ripe berries. The texture is something else, mouth coating with a superb ripe acidity. I’ve not tasted anything quite like it, extrovert for sure. Can’t wait to see what this will taste like in a decade or more. Long. Wonderful.

Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2035+

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19 Recommended drinking from 2026 – 2040+

£270/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

£1,125/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.

HONG KONG Unit D, 6th Floor 9 Queen’s Road Central Hong Kong T +852 36 94 33 33 hongkong@corneyandbarrow.com

FACEBOOK @corneyandbarrowhk

TWITTER @corneyandbarrowhk

INSTAGRAM @corneyandbarrowhk