Domaine Marquis d’Angerville 2020 by corneyandbarrowltd

DOMAINE MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE 2020 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR

“Now that the tasting is over, I will happily admit that I think 2020 is one of the best vintages I have made. It has elements of 2010, which I had previously considered my best vintage. It also has similarities with 2017.” GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE, November 2021

GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE, NOVEMBER 2021

DOMAINE MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE 2020 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR Guillaume d’Angerville succeeded his father, the highly respected Jacques d'Angerville, who died in 2003. Returning to the domaine from a career in banking, he represents the family’s fifth generation. Guillaume works alongside his brother-in-law, Renaud de Villette, who assisted Jacques d’Angerville for many years and François Duvivier, the domaine’s Régisseur. The domaine began conversion to biodynamics in 2006. The d’Angerville family’s close involvement with Burgundy beyond the domaine has been continued by Guillaume. He is president of the Climats du vignoble de Bourgogne, which successfully applied for the vineyards of the Côte d’Or to be recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The notes in this offer are from a tasting in November 2021 at the domaine. More than ever this year, I was wary of taking at face value the upfront charm of the 2020 fruit – there is so much more here. The tension and nerviness of the 2020 d’Angervilles point to wines of true pedigree and ageing potential. Yes, these wines are lovely from barrel, but in this first blossoming, they had not even been born (bottled) yet when tasted! I hope Guillaume will forgive me for reproducing his comments on the previous page, offered at the end of our tasting, but they give a measure of this astonishing vintage better than I can here.

GUY SEDDON March 2022

HISTORY Domaine Marquis d'Angerville has been owned by the same family for more than two centuries and, over the previous three centuries, by the Dukes of Burgundy and Kings of France. The first record of the estate, in the village of ‘Vollenay’, was in 1507. In 1804, Baron du Mesnil acquired the Clos des Ducs and the surrounding plots – Taillepieds, Caillerets and Champans – which, in the 12th century, had formed part of the famous holdings of the Dukes of Burgundy. In the second half of the 19th century, the estate passed to Baron du Mesnil’s son, Eugène du Mesnil. On his death in 1888, Eugène du Mesnil, without direct heirs, bequeathed it to his nephew and godson, Sem, Marquis d'Angerville, then aged 15. Sem took possession almost 20 years later, after the phylloxera crisis that ravaged the vineyard at the end of the 19th century. From 1906, the recently renamed Domaine Marquis d’Angerville began to reconstruct its vineyards, replanting them with what are now the prized Pinot d’Angerville clones. Sem d'Angerville was an early adopter of estate bottling and exports, initially focused on the United States. He was also a founding member of the National Institute of Appellations of Origin, the INAO. When he died in 1952, his son Jacques took over the domaine. As quality-driven as his father, Jacques d'Angerville expanded the domaine’s reputation and did much to raise the image of Volnay. He held positions on several Burgundian bodies, including as chairman of the BIVB predecessor. He died prematurely in July 2003, leaving behind 52 vintages and a magnificently maintained estate. Jacques’ son Guillaume d'Angerville took over the domaine in 2003. He is supported by his brother-in-law, Renaud de Villette, who worked alongside Jacques d'Angerville for 15 years, thereby ensuring the family-run continuity of the estate.

2020 VINTAGE NOTES A fast-forward season This is Guillaume d’Angerville’s own report on the 2020 season at the domaine. Winter 2018-19 was the mildest of the last 25 years and winter 2019-20 was very mild again. Like last year, temperatures remained positive during the December to March period, except for seven days, when the lowest temperature was (only) minus 4.8°C. Yet, in contrast with 2019, we entered the upcoming season with appropriate water reserves. January was quite dry, but by the beginning of March, we had reconstituted excess reserves of approximately 90mm compared to historical averages.

By March 10th, the weather turned dry again, helped by strong winds, and the vines started moving fast. Budbreak (end of March) was even earlier than in 2019, marking 2020 as one of the most precocious vintages in living memory. Apart from a few days at the beginning of the month, April was very warm and dry. The vines accelerated again: we moved from budbreak to 4-5 leaves within a week, unusually quickly. For good reason: April had 50% more sun hours than average; average temperatures were 3.5°C above average, and we saw no rainfall at all in Volnay that month. The first rain in six weeks fell on April 28th (8mm). We sprayed our first 500P and silica biodynamic preparations just after the rain. Early May saw a further acceleration of the vegetative cycle. By mid-May flowering was under way, and we estimated the mid-point around May 20th. In theory, this implied starting the harvest around August 25th. Not so, as we will see. June was the odd month out this season, with fewer sun hours than usual, and average temperatures and rainfall. But the berries grew rapidly and bunch closure was on its way, helped by again rising temperatures towards the end of the month. By then, 2020 looked like 2007 and 2011 (we started picking on September 5th and September 1st in these two years, respectively). There was no mildew pressure, but oidium was a worry again, even as the bunch closure was almost complete.

July marked another big break in the season. It was exceptionally hot and dry. Yet the vines’ evolution continued apace, and véraison (when the grapes turn red), began early July, confirming 2020 as the most precocious vintage ever. We were pleased to see that the vines did not seem to suffer: no deterioration of the vegetative material, and virtually no sunburnt bunches. Fifteen years of biodynamic farming certainly made a significant difference, giving the plant energy and resources to be able to resist such ultra-high temperatures (high 30s°C at the end of July) and water deficit (around 200mm by harvest time). Selecting the correct harvest date required thorough thinking, more so than ever in 2020, perhaps, as a dilemma faced us at the beginning of August: the levels of natural sugar content were increasing quickly, yet the skin and the seeds did not seem fully ripe. At the last minute, we decided to bring forward our picking start date by one week. It was an organizational challenge, especially in the context of the Covid-19 pandemic, which reduced the availability of experienced pickers. The quality of the wines vindicated us in our decision. The 2020 wines are of exceptional quality, with a very precise definition, perfect balance, and beautiful aromas resulting from the ripe and disease-free fruit. The tannins are ripe and smooth and give the wines a discreet, yet clear backbone, inside a lovely texture. But the most striking quality of the vintage, and its most important lesson, is that, thanks to biodynamic farming, the vines have shown their ability to produce undeniably classic pinot noirs, despite the hot and dry season. The vines continue to adjust well to the new climate conditions, preserving acidity, and allowing the specific characteristics of each climat to come out clearly.

©DOMAINE MARQUIS D'ANGERVILLE & GRAND CRU SELECTIONS

THE VINEYARDS “Are the vines adjusting to the new conditions? We had almost no sunburnt berries in 2020.” GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE, November 2021 The Marquis d’Angerville Pinot Noir clones are unique, producing particularly small grapes. These make for a high ‘skin to juice ratio’ and so rich tannins, affording the wines a natural substance and presence. The domaine’s holdings were replanted following phylloxera by Guillaume d’Angerville’s grandfather, Sem, shortly after his arrival at the domaine in 1906.

A century later, in 2006, the domaine began conversion to biodynamic viticulture. It has been wholly biodynamic since 2009.

VINEYARD

AREA IN HECTARES (HA)

AVERAGE AGE OF VINES (YEARS)

Meursault 1er Cru Santenots

1.05

20-25

Volnay Village

0.49

60-65

Pommard 1er Cru Combes Dessus

0.38

50-55

Volnay 1er Cru

0.97

20-25

Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles

1.07

60-65

Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets

1.58

30-35

Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets

0.65

30-35

Volnay 1er Cru Champans

3.98

40-45

Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds

1.07

30-35

Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru Monopole

2.15

40-45

THE VINEYARDS IN NUMBERS: The domaine has 16.5 hectares (ha) of vines --…or 6% of the total 280ha in Volnay --Of these, 12.9ha are premier cru --…which is 12% of Volnay’s total 110ha premier cru vineyard

THE CELLAR “2020 is a vintage that marries well with the specific style of Volnay.” GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE, November 2021

The grapes are 100% destemmed and transferred to vats. They are cooled before fermentation, which lasts 15-18 days, with a gradual and controlled rise in temperature, reaching a maximum of 30-32°C. Extraction focuses on remontage (pumping over) rather than pigeage (punching down). Once fermented, the must is gently pressed and the wine descends by gravity into oak barrels, in the cellars directly beneath the cuverie. The maximum proportion of new oak has declined and is now around 20% for the premiers crus. The wines remain in barrel for around 18 months, with malolactic conversion occurring in spring or early summer following harvest. Several weeks before bottling, the wines are transferred to tank to blend and settle. Fining and filtration are only used when absolutely necessary and only ever on a small proportion of the wine. The wines are bottled using corks from Trescases.

2020 VINTAGE TASTING NOTES WHITE WINES

BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY The vines for this are on clay-rich soil in Volnay’s Grandes Terres, which would make this a ‘Volnay Blanc’, if such a thing existed… White peach fruit and crunchy apples and pears, this has wonderfully precise, fresh acids. It receives 12 months of ageing in 350 litre barrels and six additional months on its lees in vat, the second winter in the cellar bringing out a little extra richness. Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2025 £185/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

MEURSAULT 1ER CRU SANTENOTS This is from the lieu-dit Les Plures, the largest section of Santenots. The vines here are just over 30 years old. Aromas of green citrus, orchard fruit and zesty lime rind. The palate is delectable, the fleshy white peach fruit counterbalanced by chalky-mineral definition. The finish is salty and precise. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2027 £570/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

RED WINES BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR

VOLNAY

This comes from a plot on the other side of the Route Nationale, called Grandes Terres, opposite Volnay. Fine raspberries and crushed-rock minerality, with fine grippy tannins. This is a wine which consistently overperforms and 2020 is no exception. Delightful.

The domaine’s village Volnay comes from Les Grands Champs (below Mitans) and Pluchots. The two plots combined cover less than half a hectare. Fine wild strawberry aromas. The raspberry- and cherry-fruited palate is gratifyingly concentrated, with fine fruit-coated tannins. A perfect demonstration of why 2020 is such a success in Volnay. No new oak is used here.

Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2028 £185/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2031 £315/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

POMMARD 1ER CRU COMBES DESSUS

VOLNAY 1ER CRU

A C&B exclusivity. The domaine’s only premier cru red from outside Volnay, Combes Dessus sits on the appellation boundary, which may explain its Volnayesque aromatic attractiveness. Bosky dark berries and sous-bois herbaceousness, with a perfume-impregnated lightness of touch and particularly fine tannins. A strikingly elegant incarnation of Pommard, which I loved.

This is a blend of two premiers crus parcels, the powerful Mitans and the sloping, free-draining Pitures. Aromas of dark berries, plums, cedar and orange zest. The palate is crunchy and precise, with firm tannins which mean business, all lifted by a fresh arc of acidity. Tightly coiled when tasted but I expect this to meld and blossom.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2033 £365/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

£450/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

VOLNAY 1ER CRU CLOS DES ANGLES

VOLNAY 1ER CRU CHAMPANS

Produced since 2008, this triangle-shaped vineyard (hence the name) sits beneath Fremiet. Just over a hectare in size, of which half is currently fallow, awaiting replanting next spring. Linear and pure, the succulent raspberry fruit here is flavoursome and rose-scented without weight. Lacy fruit-coated tannins make for a long, textured, perfumed finish.

Marquis d’Angerville is the principal owner of Champans, with four hectares in two plots. This is also the domaine’s largest holding. Whilst the soils at the top resemble the mineral-rich Caillerets, the bottom is deeper and more ferrous, making for a riper style. Characteristically fruitladen, with pure and immediate red-berried aromas. The wine sashays across the palate, all curves and silk, drowning you in charm. Guillaume d’Angerville again: “I view this as the ultimate Volnay 1er cru (Clos des Ducs is apart).”

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2036 £495/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

Corney & Barrow Score 19 Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2037+ £635/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £650/case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

VOLNAY 1ER CRU FREMIET

VOLNAY 1ER CRU TAILLEPIEDS

Fremiet’s shallow soils – just one foot of limestone-rich topsoil over the bedrock – perhaps explain its intensely mineral nature. It borders Pommard, at mid-slope. Darkly berried and smoky-mineral, with cedary spice and fruitcoated tannins which are both fine and firm. An autumnal wine, if wines can be assigned seasons… A crunchiness of fruit lends precision to the finish. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2038+

A high, exposed slope to the south of the village. Taillepieds’ white marl sub-soil brings mineral tension, with 30cm+ of brown earth lending a lightness of touch. Dark, earthy, almost metallic minerality, with filigree-fine tannins. I jotted down haute couture blackberries here – the type that regular blackberries aspire to, I suppose, exuding a nonchalant refinement. For Guillaume d’Angerville, Taillepieds is “more like JS Bach” – elegant yet reserved, a wine you have to work harder to understand. Bach or otherwise, it is superb.

£515/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £530/case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2038+ £635/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £650/case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

VOLNAY 1ER CRU LES CAILLERETS

VOLNAY CLOS DES DUCS 1ER CRU MONOPOLE

The domaine’s Caillerets comes from 0.62 hectares, in Caillerets Dessus, at the top of the hill. A small, recently purchased plot is currently being replanted. It is the furthest south of the domaine’s holdings and tends to have a distinctly mineral aspect – an ‘intellectual’ wine. This marries Volnay’s rose petal aromatic finesse with strident tannin and chalky minerality. As Guillaume d’Angerville commented, “Ethereal but so powerful – how much more Caillerets can you get?” This was the first plot harvested, on 18th August.

The 2.15 hectare monopole Clos des Ducs stretches away from the domaine buildings on a steep south-tosouth-east-facing slope. This is a warm site thanks to its reflective white marl soils, with underground springs providing water. Pure, dark berry aromas, still tightly coiled. On the palate, the upfront loveliness and plush red berry fruit of the attack hunker down to a reserved, taut mid-palate which is biding its time. A sleeping beauty, framed by effortlessly lacy tannins, which will no doubt seduce us when the time comes.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2038

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19 Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2040+

£635/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

£1,200/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £1,215/case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. Wines are scored out of 20. Customers seem to like it and it has the benefit of simplicity. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a „+" is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.

NORTH OF ENGLAND Sedbury Stables, Sedbury Hall, Richmond, North Yorkshire DL10 5LQ T +44 (0)1748 828 640 sedburyorders@corneyandbarrow.com

EAST ANGLIA Belvoir House, High Street, Newmarket, Suffolk CB8 8DH T +44 (0)1638 600 000 newmarket@corneyandbarrow.com

EDINBURGH Oxenfoord Castle by Pathhead Midlothian, Scotland EH37 5UB T +44 (0)1875 321 921 edinburgh@corneyandbarrow.com

AYR 8 Academy Street, Ayr Ayrshire, Scotland KA7 1HT T +44 (0)1292 267 000 ayr@corneyandbarrow.com

FACEBOOK @corneyandbarrow

TWITTER @corneyandbarrow

INSTAGRAM @corneyandbarrow