Following savage losses in the 2021 vintage, the Labet family estates are back on song, with a joyful set of wines in 2022.
Château de la Tour, established in 1890, was passed down from François Labet’s mother’s family and is the largest proprietor of the Clos de Vougeot. Domaine Pierre Labet, whose origins date from 15th century Beaune, was founded in its current form by François’ father.
The unifying winemaking approach involves a high proportion of whole-bunch vinification of Pinot Noir, relatively early picking of Chardonnay and long élevage in barrel at Château de la Tour, one of only three buildings in the Clos de Vougeot.
Chris Hodgson, Graham Moss and I tasted the 2022s with Édouard Labet at Château de la Tour in October 2023. As has been the case in recent vintages here, the innate power of the Clos de Vougeot is successfully tempered by a wonderfully upbeat, vivacious interpretation of the Labet terroirs. Far from a dumbing-down, the effect is a newfound elegance and aromatic expression that works brilliantly.
Édouard’s father, François Labet, has been president of the Vins de Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) since 2015 and was awarded the Légion d'honneur in 2019 for nearly four decades of service to Burgundy. The highly regarded Sylvain Pataille is the family’s longstanding consultant winemaker.
Corney & Barrow is exclusive agent for both Château de la Tour and Domaine Pierre Labet in the United Kingdom and Singapore.
GUY SEDDON HEAD OF FINE WINE BUYINGFebruary 2024
“A generous and promising vintage.”
ÉDOUARD LABET, SEPTEMBER 2023
Years pass by, yet each one is different. Following a 2021 vintage affected by dramatic frost episodes which, as you know, impacted the whole Burgundy region, we welcomed this new 2022 season with open arms and with it, the ambition to keep pushing the boundaries and producing fine wines. With respect for our heritage, but with our eyes on the challenges ahead.
After a dry and mild winter, we saw the first green tinges in the early-ripening sectors at the beginning of April. A mass of cold air from the north then caused a drop in temperatures throughout Burgundy.
In light of the 2021 frost, and in an attempt to find viable alternatives, we have adapted our pruning approach, opting for late pruning, in two stages, in order to delay bud break and avoid spring frost damage.
This work has born fruit (literally!) as we have noticed very little vineyard damage. Although we feared the worst when an April frost again struck, a large part of the vines was still in the “bud in cotton” stage and therefore protected. As a result, the damage was minimal and not at all comparable to the previous vintage.
The vines had a fast-paced start, with spring conditions from mid-April. One month later, we observed the first flowers. Flowering took place amid dry and warm conditions, two
weeks ahead of average. The emergence of grape bunches augured well.
The spring, which was exceptionally warm, marked a turning point. Budburst was average but the pace accelerated, resulting in one of the earliest vintages of the last ten years. Fortunately, by the time thunderstorms hit the whole of Burgundy from 21st to 25th June, fruit set had already happened and the berries were developing.
These spectacular stormy episodes brought a crucial quantity of water to the vines. Some sectors suffered damage, but this was localised. At the domaine, we noted some damage to our plots in Gevrey-Chambertin and Chorey-lès-Beaune.
Harvest began on 31st August and ended on 8th September. This 2022 vintage is very promising and gives us back our smiles after a complicated year in 2021. The almost daily tastings already show us beautiful things. After a few months' ageing in the cellar, the wines are evolving smoothly and already have a structure worthy of the great Burgundy vintages.
Global warming is a real challenge for our viticulture, but it is also ‘beneficial’ in many ways when it comes to winemaking: optimal ripeness, few diseases, smooth tannins, gourmandise and freshness.
Established in 1890, Château de la Tour is the largest proprietor of the Clos Vougeot. Its 5.5 hectares represent 11% of the appellation.
The domaine is owned by François Labet and his aunt Nicole Déchelette. The majority of the vines are grouped in two parcels close to the château building, with another smaller holding higher on the slope, bordering Echézeaux. This has been recently replanted, using massal selection, as always here.
The vines have an average age of nearly 70 years, with a one hectare plot planted in 1910 at their heart. The domaine has been organic since 1992. Yields are controlled by rubbing out every second bud, which gives a well aerated canopy and which François and chef de culture Cyril Beutot prefer to green harvesting.
Grape sorting with secateurs takes place once the grapes arrive from the vineyards, with whole bunches loaded into the fermentation vats and then cooled to around 6°C for a week. Fermentation starts spontaneously, following which a maximum temperature of 29°C is maintained.
Once fermentation ends, the wine is racked off immediately into barrel to avoid any astringency in these most robust of Pinot Noirs. Around a third new oak is used for the Cuvée Classique and Vieilles Vignes, the proportion having decreased over recent years.
Ten micro-cuvées are made in total, of which seven go into this wine, two into the VV and one into the Hommage. The Cuvée Classique comes from mainly old vines in the upper sections of the Clos de Vougeot. Tasted at the domaine in October 2023. Zesty dark fruit aromas and dark peppery spices, sweet and pliant. The palate is juicy, red fruited and approachable, aiming at – and achieving – drinkability. Fine tannins and exotic spices from 50% whole-bunch fermentation. 35% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2027-2040
£1,145/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£1,155/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
£815/ CASE OF 1 JEROBOAM, IN BOND UK
Back after an absence in 2021, the Hommage is named after François Labet’s grandfather. It is a selection from the first bunches on the cane, from only the best vines. Inky-dark, sweet berry aromas – “an essence of ancient Pinot Noir” I scribbled, fancifully. The palate is supple and concentrated, retaining an impressive buoyancy and texture on the mid-palate which, although rich and framed by grippy, potent tannins, conveys a certain ease. 70% whole-bunch fermentation. 40-45% new oak. This was first made in the 2010 vintage.
Corney & Barrow Score 19
Recommended drinking from 2032-2047
£1,995/CASE OF 3 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£1,345/CASE OF 1 MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
£2,745/ CASE OF 1 JEROBOAM, IN BOND UK
£5,535/ CASE OF 1 METHUSELAH, IN BOND UK
£8,285/ CASE OF 1 SALMANAZAR, IN BOND UK
The Vieilles Vignes is a selection from the old vines (over 70 years old) in the domaine’s two main parcels, including the 1910 plot at its heart. A dark-fruited, spicy nose, with plush wild strawberry behind. The palate is substantial on the attack, refreshed by juicy acidity and menthol, with peppery spices. Super-concentrated and driving, but without excess, thanks to the poised, fresh acidity. I will go out on a limb and say this is the most impressive modern VV I have tasted here. Rich and cellar-worthy. 70% whole-bunch fermentation, with just over a third new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+
Recommended drinking from 2030-2045
£1,775/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£1,785/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
£1,250/ CASE OF 1 JEROBOAM, IN BOND UK
Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score.
Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
Domaine Pierre Labet dates from 15th century Beaune, when the domaine buildings lay on the city ramparts.
600 years later, François Labet’s grandfather was mayor of Beaune between the two world wars. During this period, the holdings began to be expanded. Now, the domaine owns 10 hectares of vineyards in Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Meursault and Gevrey-Chambertin.
Given the geographical distance between Domaine Pierre Labet’s holdings, François and Édouard have an operational hub in Beaune, a seven-person vineyard team and two permanent cellar hands, with another two during vinification. The wines are made at Château de la Tour.
François started making wine in 1984, in the 1987 vintage changing from 100% destemming to 100% whole bunch handling. His approach at the time was, “you either do it or you don’t”, although nowadays varying proportions of whole clusters are used, depending on the vintage.
No sulphur dioxide is used at harvest, the preference being to protect the grapes using carbon dioxide (dry ice) at the top of the vats. Reds are given a short pre-fermentation maceration. There is no racking after malolactic fermentation. The wines are left to settle in vat after pressing.
It is wonderful to have the white wines back this year, after their decimation in the 2021 vintage. These are given brief periods of lees contact following fermentation, with no bâtonnage (lees stirring) and then a light fining, whereas there is none for the reds. None of the wines are filtered.
The domaine has been certified organic since the 2021 vintage.
François and Édouard’s Bourgogne Rouge is all about the lush Pinot fruit and delicate exotic spices of its whole bunch vinification. It comes from three diverse plots in Chorey-lès-Beaune, which has more clay than the Côte. Wild strawberry and exotic spices on the nose. The palate is sappy and lively, the expressive red berry fruit framed by supple tannins and salty minerality. Very good. Two thirds whole-bunch fermentation. 25% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2025–2029
£240/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
The Labets have two hectares in Coucherias, planted to both Pinot and Chardonnay. 1er Cru Coucherias is in the centre of the Beaune appellation, on the high slopes above Teurons, looking down on the city. It is a warm, south-facing site, just beneath the forest. Exotic spices, incense and roses on the nose. The palate is sappy, thanks to the 70% whole-bunch fermentation. A wine of pretty aromas and crystalline fruit. 30% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2026–2031
£380/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£390/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
Dessus des Marconnets is at the northern end of Beaune, on the boundary with Savigny, beneath the Montagne de Beaune. A spicy nose of incense and bright berry fruit aromas. The medium-bodied palate is supple and sweetly fruited, with fabulous purity. Sappy and highly drinkable. A third new oak. 70% whole-bunch fermentation.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2026–2031
£340/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£350/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
Vieilles vignes here denotes well over 60 years of age. The domaine’s Gevrey village is made from three lieux-dits, which are co-vinified: La Justice (north-east), Les Crais (south-east) and La Jouise (south-west, just below MazyChambertin), totalling just 0.6 hectares. According to Édouard, this was saved by the heavy rains in June, which alleviated the hydric stress. Dark, pristine berries – a nose of intensity and panache. The palate is so balanced and complete, juicy and with sweet dark berry fruit. Fantastic, this hits the sweet spot. 35% new oak, with 50% wholebunch fermentation.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2028–2038
£395/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£405/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
The domaine’s whites are acidity-focused, the goal being to pick Chardonnay grapes with a sense of freshness. François and Édouard’s Bourgogne Chardonnay comes from two plots in Chorey-lès-Beaune and Beaune. Picked in the first week of September, with bottling a little earlier than usual. This is crunchy and phenolic, with lime zest and green melon fruit. Pure and bright, exuberant. Vinified in large 350 litre barrels.
Corney & Barrow Score 17
Recommended drinking from 2025-2028
£240/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
This plot borders Savigny, at the beginning of the wooded Montagne de Beaune. A wine of juicy and pliant peach and apricot fruit, with wonderful purity and crunch. Tasted from barrel in October 2023. It was given 18 months élevage in 350 and 450 litre barrels, 30% of which were new, followed by four months in tank prior to bottling.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2025–2029
£340/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£350/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
This comes from one plot of less than half a hectare, opposite the village of Pernand-Vergelesses, on the other side of the combe. It was replanted in 2019 using massal selection and drought-resistant rootstocks. 2022 is the first vintage released since replanting. These are limestone-rich marl soils. Fleshy white peach aromas, with cedary spices from around a third new oak. On the palate, this is an exuberant wine of zesty stone-fruit. Vinified in a mixture of large 350 and 450 litre barrels, and some larger foudres
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2025–2029
£395/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Although Les Tillets sits in the middle of the commune, François Labet describes it as “more Puligny than Meursault” in character. Les Tillets’ white marl soils tend to result in admirably textured wines. In 2022, the nose opens with apple skin, crunchy pear and peach fruit aromas. The palate is fleshy and delectable, with a pretty floral finesse on the finish. 35% new oak, with around three quarters in large 350 litre barrels.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2025–2030
£385/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£395/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
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PLEASE NOTE
These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.
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