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A Coronadans Guide To France
By: Linda L. Austin
The world is returning to normal; just look at the packed airlines and filled reservation lists for attractions. If you want your trip to include all your desired attractions, planning ahead is a must. We recently returned from our eighth trip with grandchildren. COVID’s three years’ sequestration got us behind, so we doubled up with two sisters, both of whom wanted to visit France.
Our two weeks were packed since I am a planner and like to fill each minute of the day. We landed, arrived at our house swap on the outskirts of Paris, dropped luggage, and headed for Versailles which was only 30 minutes away. Not wanting to waste one day, we counted on our plane rest to be sufficient to keep us going for a few hours. Versailles opulence lived up to the girls’ expectations. They remembered pictures of the Room of Mirrors.
Art major Ainsley became our tour guide throughout the numerous museums, giving us extra information on famous paintings and statues. Sadie, who had spent one semester studying in London, was the designated navigator both in the car and on the Metro. I was the planner with my lesson plan for each day, and Paul was the chauffeur to and from the Metro.
I scheduled too much, but with the Museum Pass it was too tempting to include every “free” museum. We had four attractions grouped somewhat together on the map each day. The Metro was useful; however, we walked a lot, one day seven miles. On the Eiffel Tower day we included the Sewer Tour, Boat Cruise, and the Orangerie Museum. According to Sadie’s app, we climbed the equivalent of 55 floors, and I believe it!
Our reservations were for the Eiffel stairs since the elevator was unavailable. Both girls hesitated as they shared their fear of heights. I assured them the choice of climbing to the second level was theirs. I, also, encouraged them to step outside their comfort zone since they could not fall off. I mentioned that 10 years from now, they would regret they had not done it. They headed up.
Reaching the first level was a struggle for me with frequent stops to let others pass. I was not the only one periodically resting, but I may have been the oldest! We continued and made it as far as we were allowed. The top floor is a posh restaurant reserved years in advance. The view was spectacular and worth the huffing and puffing.
A few days later when I asked what the best thing had been so far, they looked at each other, laughed, and said the Eiffel Tower. That stayed the favorite despite the phenomenal things we saw: Louver, Napoleon’s Tomb, Arc de Triomphe, Pantheon, Sainte-Chapelle, Conciergerie, to name a few. We used the Museum Pass 11 times, adding art museums that were near, like Picasso and Rodin.
The Secrets Gourmands De Noemie cooking school, where we made macaroons with five others, was fun and packed with laughter and useful information. We each left the class with 12 delicious macaroons. Montmartre was the destination for souvenir portraits, and Sacre-Coeur Basilica was too close to miss.
The Louis Vuitton Foundation Museum ended the day.
We began early each day because Rick Steves had advised arriving 30 minutes before the attraction opened to avoid the crowds. It worked for us, even though some lines were already long. By the time we returned each day, I was bone weary and ready for an early dinner and bed. That didn’t happen since the French eat late and restaurants opened at 7 p.m. Our house was very convenient but with limited restaurants nearby.
After a week, we left for a road trip with Rouen as our destination. Our loop included a stop in Chartre to tour the cathedral and see Mary’s birthing gown, supposedly worn by Mary at the birth of Jesus. The cathedral has been described as a picture book of the entire Bible through its statues, stain glass windows, and architecture. The headphones provided detailed information to verify that.
After a night in a B and B, we climbed the stony stairs of Mont Saint Michele to revel in its 1,200 year history. Among the top four pilgrimage sights, it sits in isolation surrounded by water and mud flats. We happened to arrive as a free tour in English began, which was an unexpected bonus.
Back in the car, we headed for Normandy and the D-Day Beaches. With D-Day approaching, festivities were already beginning. We were present for a laying of a wreath at the Liberty Statue by a college choir from Illinois as well as their short concert. We reverently walked among the white crosses until time to gather for a presentation about the cemetery. The guide highlighted two people buried there, a young reluctant soldier who became a hero and a Donut Dolly female who brightened a few moments for the soldiers. Only four women are interred there, she and three African American women who volunteered and sorted two-year-old mail to send to families.
Seeing the steep cliffs where the U.S. Army Rangers climbed to disable the gun battery at Pointe du Hoc was a must on my list. A short film summarized the ac-
tion through the eyes of a few remaining veterans. Brave men completed a nearly impossible feat scaling the steep white cliffs. The scattered craters on the battlefield were added examples of the dangers.
Another B and B night was in a 200-yearold home that had been renovated somewhat. While the kitchen and baths were modern, the bedroom doors were not. When inside the room, a metal latch prevented entry, but the room was not secure upon leaving, no lock and key. The host was delightful and assured us that she had never had an issue with security.
In the morning we backtracked to visit the largest of six German cemeteries in Normandy where 21,200 German soldiers are buried. A somber mood pervades as you walk along the paths with its black crosses flanking each side. In the center are two black statues and a large black cross atop a
mound designating a mass grave of mostly unknown soldiers. The cemetery is in stark contrast to the light, peaceful American cemetery. Volunteers maintain the memorial, but no one was on duty.
On to Bayeux for the ancient tapestry of the Battle of Hastings commissioned in the eleventh century. Called a tapestry, it is actually a 70-yard-long embroidered linen cloth of 59 panels. With headphones which explained each of the panels, we proceeded in the line systematically for 25 minutes. Ainsley was surprised that she had studied it in one of her classes.
Our next stop was beautiful Rouen where we stayed with a French family we met 13 years ago during a house swap. Fabrice and Isabel’s daughter Chloe is Sadie’s age and has spent months with our family over the years, even attending three months of high school at Liberty Charter School in La Mesa with the girls. She has been added to our list of grandchildren, becoming #13. The Carpentiers are extraordinary cooks, and we always have the best French food at their home.
Chloe was our guide for two days, taking us to the seaside resort of Etretat, a popular site in Impressionist paintings. I have climbed the cliff, but that day we had a leisurely lunch appreciating the view and catching up on our lives. Our second day was a tour of Rouen with a climb in the Great Clock, an explanation of the Palace of Justice, a tour of Rouen’s Notre-Dame Cathedral, and the Plague Cemetery where the bodies of two-thirds of the people in the parish died and were interned in a mass grave in the half-timbered courtyard during the Middle Ages.
Rouen honors Joan of Arc who was burned at the stake for heresy in 1431. The Church of St. Joan of Arc, in the center of the ancient market square, was completed in 1979. The modern structure, with its sixteenth century stain glass windows, remains a controversial subject since it is in stark contrast to the old-world surroundings. Designating the site where she was burned is a tall cross near the entrance to the church.
Our last full day in France was spent in Giverny, enjoying Monet’s gardens and home. Having seen his massive water lily paintings in the Orangerie as well as other works in various museums, we expected the stunning beauty of the surroundings. Flowers were in full bloom and the famous green bridge looked pristine.
As we headed back to Paris to pack our souvenirs, I was satisfied that the trip had accomplished my goals for the granddaughters of experiencing the varied French culture, fulfilling their requests, and reconnecting with our friends. Since the second week was more relaxing, we had regained our stamina and were eager to return home to share our adventures.
