Finances Surprise
Anticipation Relax
Party
Spanish
Memory Touch
Taste Hearing
Orientation
And here we go... Instinct
Tolerance
VISUAL GUIDE: BA THROUGH ITS ICONS - ROCK MUSIC SCENE - PERPETUAL TRAVELLERS RECOLETA CEMETERY IN-DEPTH - HIDDEN PLACES, THEATRES, HOT TIPS, BOOKS & MORE
05
Travel tendencies
PERMANENT TOURIST FAQs
PERPETUAL PLANS FOR MORTALS ONLY The acronym PT can mean many things: perpetual traveller, prior taxpayer, permanent tourist, possibility thinker, privacy tactician to name but a few. Any of them lead to a plethora of possibilities, but also bring with them a lot questions. perpetual traveller is someone who benefits from the treatment most nations offer their foreign visitors. Such benefits include: not having to pay income tax in the country that you are a visiting, being treated as a welcome guest, as well as being welcomed as a spender of foreign funds. Most countries will allow you to be a tourist for up to six months in any one year. If you stay longer, your hosts are likely to view you as a resident -something which can bring a variety of extra, often unwanted, obligations. All in all, motivation and guts seem to be the only necessary requirements for embracing the idea. But there are still some questions that might help you deal with the tremendously seductive power of becoming the next PT.
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Q: Got that… any way, some figures? A: Everyone's different; some can survive on US$ 5,000 per year and are confident to travel with a small amount of capital saved. Others need enough to get by for a couple of months before finding a suitable source of income. Others have a lump sum saved and want to make it last as long as possible, sort of semi-retired. Yet more will have made sufficient to retire early.
Q: I'd really like to be a PT, but what about my spouse/partner? A: This can be the biggest hurdle to overcome. Clearly articulate the benefits of the PT lifestyle to your partner, and try to get him or her excited by the possibilities. If they are totally against the idea, then there is very little you can do.
INTERESTED? Dr Hill's classic book "PT Perpetual Tourist" is a valuable recommendation. The PDF version can be bought online and it comes along with a handy guide about Portable Trades & Occupations. JUST GOOGLE: “Dr Hill PT knowledge”
SIDE INGREDIENTS > MORTGAGE FREE
Q: My partner and I want to become PTs but we have children. How can we educate our children if we were to lead this type of lifestyle?
Desirable but no exclusive.
> PASSPORT, CREDIT CARD(S), DRIVERS LICENSE
A: You might have to consider educating them yourself (aka home schooling). The basics - reading, writing and maths can easily be taught by parents. Science, the arts, geography and history can all be taught by reference to real life, and with the help of interesting books and the Internet. Of course it is not the 'easy way'. But at least for a feasibility check on PT, bear in mind that both, state-school system and home-schooling, have their own advantages and disadvantages.
Registered to a family address back home.
> NETELLER.COM ACCOUNT Global ATM card and online transactions.
> GOOD LAPTOP + ACCESSORIES Tourist = On vacations.
> GOOD RUCKSACK 50 litres is plenty for the bare essentials.
Q: Can anyone become a PT? A: Yes! However, most people simply don't want to. Most people value their 'home', and their 'home country', so the idea of moving away permanently is usually viewed negatively.
Q: What type of people would find becoming a PT relatively easy? A: Being able to earn an income away from home is definitely an essential requirement. Anyone who has either a private source of income, or who can do business internationally. A full time investor for example, or someone with portable skills allowing them to work anywhere also makes an excellent PT candidate. Those who earn their
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income via the Internet can also adopt the PT lifestyle. A Travel Writer, for example can literally work anywhere. The Internet has opened the door to many more people as far as a PT life is concerned. If you can do business digitally (e.g. graphical design, web building, programming, writing, photography, consulting etc.) then you can live and work anywhere you chose.
Q: How much money do I need to become a PT? A: The amount of money you need to become a PT isn't really the main issue. In fact, you can become a PT on a very small income. This is one of the reasons places like Central/South America and the Far East are popular with PTs. The cost of living in these regions is relatively low.
Q: What is the main advantage of becoming a PT? A: In general, giving a try on something that caught your eye. Besides that, it might be the happiness of feeling truly free. Having very few possessions for example (laptop, digital camera and clothing is all!) really does mean you jump on a plane at the drop of a hat.
Q: What is the biggest barrier to starting a PT life? A: Your mind. Living as a PT is an attitude as much as a lifestyle. Courtesy of Andy C. www.perpetual-traveller.blogspot.com
06
Getting around
REVIEW: RECOLETA CEMETERY
IN THE CITY OF THE DEAD Even if graveyards tend to be a turn-off, most of the movers and shakers of Argentine history rest at the Recoleta Cemetery along with their fascinating stories. Everyone can find something to identify with. All you need is a little extra info, and you'll easily cover most of Buenos Aires just by walking its passageways. niversally renowned as an unmissable attraction of the city, most visitors to Buenos Aires usually go inside, stroll around for a few minutes, find their way to Eva Perón’s family vault and then wander out. Definitively, that’s not enough. Thankfully, a documenting project has already been going for more than three years. As a result of Robert and Marcelo’s comprehensive research, you are now invited to look at Buenos Aires in a new light…a way to see the present city via its intriguing, immortalised past. Here are just a few of those fascinating stories of the residents of Recoleta Cemetery.
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> For the complete version, go to: WWW.RECOLETACEMETERY.COM
An Unconventional Woman A strong-minded feminist, Victoria Ocampo felt stifled by traditional women’s roles. Ocampo married young as expected, but the union quickly turned into a disaster when she fell in love with her husband’s cousin. Divorce was not allowed in Argentina during the early twentieth century, and so she conveniently moved to a different bedroom. The in-family love affair didn’t last, and after her husband’s death Ocampo never remarried. However, she had many lovers, particularly foreign intellectuals. As the matriarch of literary culture in Buenos Aires, Ocampo hosted lavish parties at family residences and often provided housing for foreign writers to spend months in Argentina. Among the lucky few were a Nobel Prize winning Indian poet, and the acclaimed English author Graham Greene. Albert Camus was also a friend of Victoria.
Gibraltar’s Castle at BA Hidden away in a corner down a dead-end aisle, there’s a castle in the cemetery, which most people never see. The castle design originated from a coat of arms granted by Queen Isabe, who also funded the voyage of Columbus. The coat of arms became incorporated into the current Gibraltar flag and then reproduced in Recoleta Cemetery. The vault is a perfect copy of the castle.
The Great Architect Born in San Isidro, Jorge Bunge studied art and architecture in Germany. On his return to Argentina, Bunge built numerous residential high-rises in Buenos Aires. His most visible work was the main site for the Banco Francés in the financial district downtown. With one of the largest domes around, the architectural detail of the beautiful Beaux-Arts details often go unnoticed during hectic business hours. Go on the weekend for a better look.
99.9 % Crosses
The Wild Bull of the Pampas
When the cemetery was founded in 1822, the majority of the city’s population was Catholic, and so it was blessed accordingly. During the presidency of Mitre (late 1860’s) the blessing was officially removed when he insisted that a prominent member of the Masonic Order be buried there. Or so the story goes. These days, only one single Jewish tomb reminds visitors of this non-denominational fact. Although it sits unoccupied today, this is the only tomb in Recoleta Cemetery which is decorated with a Star of David.
Everyone jokes and says Luís Angel Firpo is wearing his bathrobe in Recoleta Cemetery, but you probably wouldn’t say that if he was standing in front of you…that’s a life-size replica of the man. This big guy, over 6.5 feet tall and 220 pounds, was Argentina’s first world heavyweight boxer. His size and strength earned him the nickname 'El Toro Salvaje de las Pampas' (The Wild Bull of the Pampas). He fought against every major name in boxing in the 1920s, with his most famous fight in 1923, against Jack Dempsey in New York City.
Sports crack and Bon Vivant Carlos Menditeguy, sportsman and renowned playboy, embodied Argentina’s growing role in world affairs in the 1950s. He did it all and did it well, becoming one of the top six polo players while earning the third place for Maserati in a 1957’s Formula One race. Even though the family vault is far from the main walkways of the cemetery, Carlos obviously wanted a permanent stage presence. The northern façade contains a large glass panel, providing the visitor with an easy look at the elaborate altar and his casket…which will never be moved to underground storage.
SYMBOLS OF THE CEMETERY Woman bringing a finger to her lips: derived from the notion that the deceased are resting or sleeping, silence demonstrates respect and allows for introspection by visitors.Father Time or Cronos: traditionally depicted with symbols of an hourglass and a scythe, several statues can be found either in seated or standing position. He often has angel wings, too. Truncated columns: classic to funerary architecture, they symbolizes the idea of a life cut short or unfinished. Not just for young family members who have passed away, it is also used for anyone who had many tasks left to complete.
Invincible Strong Man Born in La Rioja, Facundo Quiroga became the provincial leader in the 1820s, earning the nickname 'Tiger of the Plains' due to his great skill in battle. Quiroga’s story is as interesting as his tomb. Although weathered over time, the statue of the Virgin Mary is a beautiful work of art made by Italian artist Antonio Tantardini. Note the delicate lacework details on her shawl. Legend has it that the coffin of Quiroga was buried upright, perhaps so he would be one of the first out during the Second Coming of Ch by Robert Wright & Marcelo Metayer www.recoletacemetery.com
07
BA spots and tips
THE NON-EXISTENT NEIGHBORHOOD
ABASTO IS NO ACT Even if Abasto doesn’t really exist (it actually spreads over a part of Almagro and a part of Balvanera), in the past few years it has been consolidated as a cultural hub in its own right. Theatre, music, restaurants, bars and tango harmonically coexist to make possible a perfect night within a radius of five streets.
t is official: Abasto has become an unavoidable neighborhood for travellers. Most of them come here seduced by the cultural prospects of the Ciudad Cultural Konex - if you don’t already know, one of the best programs for a Monday evening takes place at this same venue, weekly at 20hrs: La Bomba de Tiempo. But there is so much more than Konex. Abasto also has a long tradition as a culinary neighborhood. In fact, one of the finest cuisines in world has several excellent representatives right on Corrientes Av. (or just some 30 meters away from it). We are talking about Peruvian restaurants, which for the proudest of the whole nation, has massively been renowned as the most sophisticated and tastiest in the whole continent. The other excellent news, is that these places are as good as the ones in Palermo, but cost half the price (cause they don’t include the trendy-fashion fee). Editor’s preferred dishes are the Ceviches (chunks of raw fish, with lime juice onion, garlic and chilli), the shrimps, or the typical Ocopa (potatoes with an exquisite peanut and chili sauce). Let’s just add that every theatre-loving youngster with a budget finds in Abasto their night-out-in-Eden. There are 24 small theatres hidden in these streets. Among them, Guapachoza stands out for its friendly atmosphere and varied repertoire. Performances range from puppets shows to poem recitation, music concerts and even
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EXPERIMENTAL ECO-PROJECT
A PLACE OUT OF TIME CALLED VELATROPA There is a virgin spot in the city which has remained almost pristine until now. Luckily its present inhabitants have set preservation as the key objective for their project. Velatropa stands then as an open invitation for anyone who is eager to be surrounded by nature, right in the middle of a city that has been weeded out for the sake of progress.
enchanting story tellers. If you want an eclectic night of all, don't miss 'El Mezcladito' (the Mix Up night), which takes place on the second Wednesday of every month. Entrance is free but your voluntary contribution helps sustain the series. As to be expected, when the sun goes down you will come across certain sloppy young men and certain Améliestyled girls. Abasto is so hip these days, there is even a particular 'look' one could attribute to it. But if you are in a more casual mood, and looking for a drink, head to La Casona de Humahuaca. It's a relaxed, warm, artsy spot that's well worth a couple of beers for its convenient prices and easy going atmosphere. What else makes this neighborhood paramount in our city’s history? The answer is Carlos Gardel, 'tanguero', that tidy-looking, smiling tango singer who has become an icon of Buenos Aires. He lived most of his short life in Abasto, and his house has been made into a museum, and occasionally a concert hall…for tango artists, of course.
PERUVIAN RESTAURANTS El Rey . Agüero 457 Kusko Hatuchay . Av. Corrientes 3528 Los Trujillanitos . Av. Corrientes 3564
BARS & DRINKS Casona Cultural . Humahuaca 3508 Bar de Roberto . Bulnes 331
CULTURAL SCENE > CIUDAD CULTURAL KONEX Sarmiento 3131
www.ciudadculturalkonex.org > TEATRO GUAPACHOZA Jean Jaurés 715
www.guapachoza.com.ar > ABASTO SOCIAL CLUB Humahuaca 3649
www.abastosocialclub.com.ar
A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY By the end of the 19th Century, the Mercado Central de Abasto ('Central Supply Market') was a flourishing market where people from all around the city gathered to buy fresh fruit and vegetables, fish and meat. A crowded, hectic market, it became a symbol of a flourishing working class made up of Italian, Spanish, Polish, and German immigrants. The Abasto Market must have been a sort of crowded, busy, and smelly Babel, where merchants got to understand each other. The market was closed in the 80’s, but reopened as a shopping mall in 1999. Its art deco architecture is well worth a look. By Anita Montaruli and Tamara Noseli
idden among trees, vegetation and concrete, the Velatropa eco-village occupies a space that was meant to house the fifth pavilion of the University City –a project abandoned long ago. A trail behind the fortunately constructed pavilions leads to the entrance of the village. A welcome sign and a trail marked with stones helps us not to get lost but also leave us a little bit disconcerted. Is this a jungle path? Where are we going? Why such a warm greeting to complete strangers? Some years ago, a group of friends started to clean the area up. The idea grew, and now the project is defined as ‘an ecological, sustainable, interdisciplinary, experimental, self-managed node’ that promotes ‘global consciousness and rebirth through the connection to nature’. And it doesn’t matter if all this sounds a little bit strange or idealistic to you first time. Because making a statement about a project that claims to work for the rise of ‘a new culture based on solidarity and peace’ is not something for which we were as heavily trained to understand as a blockbuster movies or TV ads. Heavily criticized by those who don’t share their opinions and values, and mostly by those who don’t even know what Velatropa is all about, the collective organization of the village is deeply concerned about how the project should evolve and growth. So decisions are made on consensus, and internships are even open to enrich this collective experience. Led by the principles of permaculture, the design of the whole settlement tries to replicate the relationships found in natural ecosystems. One of the pillars of this approach is to assemble the different elements in relation to one another, so that the products of one element feed the needs of adjacent elements. In short, this means producing less wastes and using less energy.
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Continuing with the eco-theme, all materials used for building the village infrastructure are totally natural or recycled. This means not only promoting an ecological consciousness, but also spreading the word about techniques that are by far more accessible, convenient and eco-friendly than modern concrete construction. Among the various activities that take place in Velatropa, music, dance, theatre and other artistic expressions, blend with meditation, reiki and talks about the Maya cultural and its philosophical legacy. In its essence, the project is about ‘leaving a dream, for making possible the impossible. Playing and listening to each other, to remain true to our dreams and our deepest desires’, say the 'velatropenses' in their blog.
COORDINATES Pabellón 5 – Ciudad Universitaria Bus Nr. 28, 33, 37, 42, 107 or 160 www.aldeavelatropa.blogspot.com
If you want to visit Velatropa, the best time to do so is during weekends, as most of the people involved in the project don’t live there on a regular basis. Mostly, you'll find workshops, courses and food being shared with all those present. But please bear in mind that a lot of energy has been invested to give this project reputable shape. So drinking alcohol is not allowed inside the village, while smokers are confined to a specific area if they want to light up.
10
BA spots & tips Cultural scene
EXTERNAL DEBT MUSEUM
CULTURAL COMBO
INTIMATE CONCERT SERIE
SPECIAL OFFER: 3 x1 in Museums
CLUB SILENCIO
Three excuses for checking out museums without the mausoleum effect. ow much time you last in a museum before getting sleepy is a personal matter. But besides this universal drawback, museums – or at least some of them - are something you shouldn’t miss the chance to visit if they are fall inside your 1.5km range. For example, if you are near the Palermo woods or in the Rosedal, don’t miss the opportunity to go to the Sívori’s Museum. The Rosedal’s white main bridge spits you out at the door of this colorful eight-room museum, filled with canvases by Argentine artists from the first six decades of the 20th century.
*ALL MUSEUMS ARE CLOSED ON MONDAYS
FUNDACION PROA Av. P. de Mendoza 1929- LA BOCA > www.proa.org
MUSEO SIVORI Avda.Infanta Isabel 555 – PALERMO > www.museosivori.org
MUSEO SARMIENTO On río Sarmiento – TIGRE’s DELTA > www.museosarmiento.gov.ar
This tiny art venue boasts a wealth of established masters and up-and-coming Argentinean artists in painting and sculpture. Usually, there are very few visitors on the site, which makes it a perfect spot for taking a break and having a nice cup of coffee under the trees of the quiet sculpture garden. Across the city, once you have made the obligatory trip to la Boca neighborhood, congratulate yourself for having chosen the perfect time for doing so. Because just two blocks away from ‘caminito’, the Proa Foundation would be hosting the superb Art in Time special exhibition.
ithout lights, stage or curtains, and perhaps blindfolded right upon arrival, by the time music starts to fill the air at Club Silencio, your imagination begins to fly. Strange but pleasant sensations start to rise up from your subconscious...music blends with incidental sounds and Shoni’s voice in harmony. As in the extraordinary David Lynch film Mulholland Drive, this transformation seems to be more a psychological reality than a physical one. In the darkness, the idea is to put the predominance of sight aside, and to let the other senses lead us into unexpected discoveries.
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Organized in four different exhibition rooms, Art in Time connects the works of classic, modern and contemporary artist. It opens a dialogue about the fundamental matters of mankind, and their representation through history. Love, hate, power, daily routine, life, death, body and soul are all explored through the eyes of the Eternal, brought together on an inspirational rampage. . Finally, if you have a taste for the eccentric or if you just want to make up your own mind about it, spare some time while visiting Tigre's Delta to stop off at D.F. Sarmiento’s crystal-box-fairy tale Museum. President of the Republic from 1868–1874, Sarmiento still causes controversy. Although responsible for the modernization of the country and improvements to the educational system, he also stood out for unconditionally believing that only the total extermination of the original inhabitants of Argentina could lead to any progress. Despite Tigre's Art Museum is much more interesting, consider jumping off the ‘colectiva’ (bus boat) at Sarmiento's Museum. Otherwise you will only have some seconds to take a look at the impressive glass case constructed all around the original wooden house built in 1860. What's inside the museum we can't tell. We've never entered.
HIGHLIGHTS Entrance (incl. drink): $ 25 Reservation needed: 4775-7330 Fri 23 hrs - Sun 19 hrs // Loyola 658 500mts form Malabia Station (B line) www.clubsilencioba.blogspot.com
It is the kind of place where passion for sharing meets creativity, and warmth inevitably spreads through the room. On Friday and Sunday nights, Shoni’s house turns into an alternative art venue that welcomes venturesome souls. The show lasts around an hour and a half. Afterwards, you might stay for a drink, during which the strangeness fades away, and cordiality fills the air. > Once there, DON'T ring the doorbell. Just wait outside with the rest of the attendance.
11
Stuck in a moment
FULL BLOOOOM
+ PHOTO: AVATARES9
> WWW.FLICKR.COM/AVATARES9/
Cities are essentially places where nature has been weeded out. As always, there are two sides to the story. We often talk about the violence of the river overflowing its banks. But we almost never speak of the strength of those banks that hold the river tight.
Lat. 34째35'33.57"S Long. 58째25'38.71"O
12
At the Crossroads
AM-PM: HOTELS BY THE HOUR
ALBERGUES TRANSITORIOS (AKA TELOS) Ever wonder what goes on in those places with sexy neon lights around town? Those are more than likely hourly 'telos', but they’re not only for the seedy souls. You’ll be surprised to hear that all types of people are opening the door.
ark Twain once remarked: ”There are lies, there are damned lies, and then there are statistics.” That being established, Argentina is reputedly the 8th-most promiscuous country in the world. Considering the presence of a military dictatorship less than three decades ago, I have to tip my hat to that one. But what really makes this statistic interesting is that Argentina has somehow side-stepped the Latin American tradition of offspring living with their parents until they marry.
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THE ARGENTINEAN SOLUTION Sometimes referred to as a telo (Argentine pig-latin for ‘hotel’), a transitorio is, bluntly put, a hotel for sexy fun time. Looking for an afternoon quickie? No worries, there’s an hourly rate. Stumbling in at 3:30 a.m. and prefer to crash for the night? Check out the nightly special that gives you until noon to check out. The question isn’t when or for how long, but jacuzzi or sauna? Blue lights, red lights or black lights? (You’re going to love the light controls).
LIKE THE IDEA BUT CONCERNED ABOUT SOMETHING? You cannot stress enough how relatively cheap these rooms are. A standard 'turn' - 2/3 hours - in a normal room starts at $50, and even the most luxurious overnight stays with breakfast in bed the next day won’t run more than $180. So splash out a little. Do you suffer from Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder? These places are cleaned after each visit thoroughly! Fresh sheets, towels and a 'sterile' paper seal on each toilet to let you know the maid has come through to ensure you and your partner are at ease and comfortable.
For more first hand impressions, reviews, etc.. etc... visit
www.LandingPadBA.com
ON LINE RESOURCES: > www.alberguestransitorios.com > www.tarjetavip.com.ar > www.voyaltelo.com ALL SITES OFFER DISCOUNT COUPONS, ROOM PRICES AND FREE MEMBERSHIPS A plastic card sent at no cost to your place !
Imagine being in your early twenties and you score a date with that special someone you’d been eyeing at the bar last week. You go for a coffee, good vibes all around. Lunch the following week is a huge success, so you up the bar to dinner and a movie. After the cuddly film, you hop across the street for a couple of drinks. Things are heating up, there’s some witty banter and some playful touching. Time to make your move, but wait. ”Are your parents home?” ”Yeah, they’re probably gazing at the TV right now.” ”Gotcha. Mine too.” Now this appears to be a potential crisis. But nay-nay my friends; not in the glorious nation of Argentina. No need to scuttle off into the bushes or the likes of some dark alley. Just pop over to the local transitorio.
The fun lies in the details. These aren’t your average Motel 6 suites by any means. For all the Tolkien buffs, there are medieval-themed rooms. For all you ancient history freaks, they’ve got Roman-style decor available. I’ve seen everything from Titanic to Igloo-themed rooms. If you prefer to just pimp it out, you can get everything from a double shower, jacuzzi, hovering mirrors, porch with view, TV with porno, and all the room service you can handle. The great thing about the room service is that you don’t even have to open the door. If you happen to be donning the emperor’s new clothes and hear a knock on the door, don’t do what I did and start scampering for your undies. Just mosey on over to the door, open the bottom tier, and in slides the tray. Or sometimes there’s a prison-like shoot on the wall where food and drink are left. Make sure to pay the difference on your way out.
So now that I’ve distilled some of your apprehensions about trying one of these places out, allow me to drop a few tips on how to find them. Your best bet is a google search. There are plenty of guides out there, including ranking forums that will provide many more details than I could give. If you find yourself on the streets without the use of internet, never fear. Transitorios are actually quite common in practically every neighborhood in Buenos Aires and the surrounding periphery. In fact, some of the most luxurious telos linger on the outskirts of town. I passed by one the other day that won’t even allow entry without a car (what is this, the late-night McDonald's drive-thru?). Whether you wind up with a late night escort, need a place to be intimate for an hour, or you and your lover are just plain curious, it ain’t a trip to the Big Apple of the southern hemisphere without a trip to a transitorio.
by Will Betton
13
City crawlers
LIVE AND LOUD IN THE CITY
BUENOS AIRES ROCK MUSIC SCENE For some 40 years now, Argentine Rock has been a mainstay of the radio stations and music scene around the country and in Buenos Aires in particular. One of the primary reasons for this was that English music was severely restricted during the 1976 – 1983 military dictatorship; in fact, it was even banned completely during the Malvinas war.
hat makes modern Argentine rock unique is the combination of influences from other regions and cultures that give it a sound all its own. The recipe for 'Rock Nacional' includes staples like American rockabilly, blues, and metal, as well as British classic, progressive, and punk rock, then flavourful ingredients such as folk and tango, a pinch of jazz and Latin music, and finally, a dash of spices like reggae and ska. It’s had its ups and downs over the years, but currently, live rock n’ roll in Buenos Aires is as ONLINE TICKETS popular as ever. That means that in addition to up-and> www.ticketek.com.ar comers, you won’t need much Pick Up Fee: $3 / Delivery $30 luck to find a local history-making concert to plunge into. > www.locurasrock.com.ar Check online / Buy personally So if this sounds like your scene, you can catch live bands > www.lee-chi.com in local venues ranging from Chaotic but complete / No delivery hole-in-the-wall dive bars to huge football stadiums. And > www.topshow.com.ar remember, “If it’s too loud, Brand new, so no comments you’re too old!”
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WHO’S PLAYING AND WHERE? Firstly, you are already holding a valuable source of information (at least we try!). So have a look at the agenda on page two, right there after opening the Nose, to find upcoming concerts. Another good way to find out about recitales (rock concerts) is the culture section in the Pagina12 newspaper (called No) or in the Clarín newspaper (called Si!). Both are available online, and there you can look at the complete listings for the entire week as well as the individual ads. Plan ahead when there’s a particular band you want to see, meaning the day before or very early the day of. That’s because in stark contrast to almost everything else in Buenos Aires, some concerts actually start early – even as early as 18:00 (a.k.a. 6 pm)! Finally, bear in mind that this is Buenos Aires, and even if you do all this, and get there exactly when you should, you might still end up waiting around for an hour or more for the show to start. Don’t get anxious and get a beer.
WHERE CAN I BUY TICKETS? You can always buy tickets at the venue itself right before you go into the show. However, if a big-time band is playing and you’re concerned the gig might sell out, you can buy tickets ahead of time. Check the frame entitled 'Online Tickets'.
PLANNING ISN’T EXACTLYMY THING. WHAT CAN I DO? Well, in that case, there are a couple of venues you can check out. One of them, Mitos Argentinos in San Telmo neighborhood, is just half block west of plaza Dorrego. The pictures of Argentine heroes from music, movies, theater, and sports that line the walls make the right impression, while the stone walls themselves also add to the mythical ambiance by making the bar look like it was literally carved out of a mountain. Fortunately, the technicians have figured out how to make it work acoustically. Gigs usually start at 9pm, and each band plays for an hour or so until 3am. After that, retro or Latin rock set the rhythm till sunrise. Girls pay $15, while entrance for guys is $5 more – see if you can spot the effectiveness of this 'bait' strategy.
AGENDAS > www.thenose.com.ar/page2 > www.si.clarin.com > www.pagina12.com.ar > www.latrastienda.com > www.mitosargentinos.com.ar La Trastienda (Humberto Primo 489) has long been considered the place to see up and coming rock bands in Buenos Aires. In addition to concerts, La Trastienda also puts on tango, reggae, Uruguayan murga, musicals and plays. So, if you're in San Telmo and in the mood for a concert, give La Trastienda a try and let yourself get seduced by the unexpected. With tickets starting at $100, expect to witness a very memorable performance. By South American Explorers / www.saexplorers.org
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FERIA DE CALI 25-30 DIC
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