COSMEDICINDIA

AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019

special features

A Natural Skin Care Product from Konnyaku SkinCeraTM is a highly functional skincare product extracted from Konnyaku (Konjac), Japan. SkinCeraTM is an oral supplement used to maintain the skin lipid barrier.

Extracted from konnyaku tubers grown through contract cultivation in Japan and extracted in our factory in Japan.

Human clinical studies on cosmetic topical application currently under progress.

A prospective, randomized, single blind, placebo-controlled clinical study to evaluate the efficacy of SkinCera in improving skin health.

Product Active ingredient Dosage form Dose Dosing regimen Route of administration Duration of treatment

Moisturizes skin Adjusts imperfect dry skin

Skin looks brightened

Minimizes wrinkles

Restores youthful appearance

Arm A SkinCera Capsule 50 mg Twice a day Oral

Arm B Placebo (Maltodextrin) Capsule 50 mg Twice a day Oral 6 weeks

The Konjac Ceramide is produced in Japan and imported to India

Corporate Address: #30 33rd Main, J P Nagar 6th Phase, Bangalore 560078 India.

Telephones: +91 80 4172 2212 +91 80 2653 1133 Fax: +91 80 2653 1134 Email: info@vidyaherbs.com www.vidyaherbs.com

August - september 2019 / Cosmedicindia / 3

...Edit Chief of Product Ravi Rampure Email: info@cosmedicindia.com Ph: +91 98215 56431 Editorial Board Naagesh Joshi Email: editor@cosmedicindia.com Ph: +91 86930 41168 Anil Patrick Email: reporter@cosmedicindia.com Ph: + 91 9870082803 Content Johnson Vaz Ramesh Shriyan Advertising Pankaj Sharma Dushant Mehta Meeta Purohit Arun J Ashwinkumar Shukla Finance & Administration Suman Bhandary Ramesh Shetty Production Harish Salian Chief Designer Vijay Kadam Circulation Radhika Vyas Sanket Deosthali Ph: 93262 06858 Registered Office : PITCHFIELD MEDIA PVT. LTD. Unit 7 & 8, Tej Kiran Industrial Estate, Near Onida, Navghar, Vasai East, Dist : Palghar - 401210 This publication is only for the private circulation and distribution controlled by the Chief of Product. The Editorial board may or may not concur with the view expressed by various authors in this publication None of the information contained in this publication may be copied, otherwise reproduced, repackaged, further transmitted, disseminated, redistributed or resold or stored for subsequent use for any such purpose, in whole or in part, in any form or manner or means whatsoever by any person without prior written permission of Chief of Product 4 / CosmediCindiA / August - september 2019

Herbal-based cosmetics are not new to India. Our ancient literature has references to people using natural, herbal-based substances for personal care. In the modern context too, the Indian consumers have traditionally been usingthese at a personal, non-commercial level. However, of late, there has been a resurgence in the consumer and commercial interest in herbal, natural and Ayurvedic cosmetics. Consumers have understood the limitations and ill-effects of chemical ingredients and are looking for natural alternatives. We have been experiencing this shift—especially during the past four-five years.

Multiple factors have contributed to this change. The consumer awareness is growing. Today’s consumer is exposed to diversified range of media including interactive social media. Increased smartphone adoption and affordable internet access have fired up the growth of social and other consumer-targeted and consumer-driven media options. Entry of Patanjali in the cosmetics space has also proved a catalyst to pent up consumer demand that already existed but was not unleashed. With growing popularity of Patanjali, consumers started recognising the true value of our rich heritage and the knowledge of Ayurved.

As mentioned earlier, people always used natural, herbal based products.

Success of Patanjali reaffirmed their traditional belief in natural and organic ingredients. As Patanjali succeeded, several foreign brands became aware of the importance of herbal, natural, Ayurvedic.

Today many global cosmetic manufacturers are looking at the Indian Ayurvedic system of medicine. Similarly, Indian consumers, like the consumers from the developed markets, have started becoming aware of wellness. That’s why you see so many parlours and spas being opened in the country recently. Indians have also started realising the wealth of ancient knowledge that they never really used.

We see, India becoming a major market in the world over the next five years. India will be amongst world’s top five markets for cosmetics with natural and Ayurvedic being the primary catalysts to her growth.

There are different types of herbal products available in the market today.

The first category is where you are just mixing the herbal extracts—one to two per cent only—and claiming the products as herbal. These products are primarily all chemical-based and herbal is a miniscule part of these.

There is another set of products—these are called organic. Here, the ingredients are natural but of those natural ingredients, nearly 60 per cent (and above) of the ingredients are claimed to be organically certified ingredients. In this case, the source of these organically certified ingredients is known and how they have been farmed. There are no artificial chemicals used, etc.

Then comes the natural category. When you prepare a product that contains all the natural ingredients but they are not completely organic and do not posses any organic certification also. Here although the ingredients are natural, their source may not be known. For example, a manufacturer may just buy ingredients from distributors and mix them to make the product. In case of natural ingredients also, there are some products where the manufacturer has acquired a certification. In In these natural products, you can use up to five per cent chemicals.

Ravi Rampure Chief of Product

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We are expecting a 100 pc growth in the current calendar year Consumers from all walks of life want to look good but without using chemicals, mentions K Shyam Prasad, Founder & President, Vidya Herbs, a leading manufacturer of plant extracts and essential oils.

Gkhair Professional debuts color products in India Beauty product consumers in India are increasingly becoming aware of the international consumption trends in the segment globally. Resultantly, there is a growing demand for 'grooming' in urban and also, non-urban regions.

Wild Stone introduces men's grooming products The renowned cosmetics manufac-turer headquartered at the city of joy, McNROE is expanding its product basket under the Wild Stone brand targeted at men

PigmentationShahnaz Husain The first aspect of the treatment is protection from the sun.

Actually, as part of the treatment, one should try to avoid sun-exposure as far as possible.

Need a new model to predict mildness The current generation of consumers has never been so well informed and increasingly hold brands to account if they suspect they are being misleading or disingenuous in their marketing messages.

Johnson & Johnson’s baby shampoo, which were picked up in India The CDSCO’s took several weeks for analyzing the results of the re-test. This result overruled the earlier test results that were found to be erroneous.

August - september 2019 / CosmediCindiA / 5

rendezvous

We are expecting a 100 pc growth in the current calendar year

Consumers from all walks of life want to look good but without using chemicals, mentions K Shyam Prasad, Founder & President, Vidya Herbs, a leading manufacturer of plant extracts and essential oils.

T

he rising consumer interest in herbal and natural seems to be the theme of cosmetics sector in India and abroad today. Consumers from all walks of life want to look good but without using chemicals, mentions K Shyam Prasad, Founder & President, Vidya Herbs, a leading manufacturer of plant extracts and essential oils. In an interview to Cosmedic India, Prasad offers wide-ranging perspectives on the state of the market and the strategy employed by his company to stay ahead of the competition.

Excerpts of the interview: Q. What is Vidya Herbs’ business focus?

As our company name indicates, our focus is on

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herbal extracts—one-hundred percent natural and standardised. Our emphasis is on quality of ingredients from their efficacy point of view.

The products we make are scientifically proven in terms of their quality and capabilities. We have a full-fledged research and development (R&D) centre with in-vitro labs, saline labs, and so on.

Q. Which segments within cosmetics will drive demand in India and the rest of the world?

Largely, most of the areas within cosmetic sector have been exhibiting a good growth. My estimate is that skin care products, especially the anti-wrinkle and anti-ageing products, will drive demand for cosmetics in the near future.

Q. How is your company taking advantage of these trends?

At Vidya Herbs, we believe in two things: 1) Beauty from within and 2) 100% natural.

Our entire business is founded on these philosophies. For instance, our product Konjac is

in line with our Beauty from within philosophy.

A product developed and manufactured by us in Japan, Konjac is a popular panacea for skin health. It is used in treating a variety skin conditions such as wrinkles and fine lines, loss of skin tone, and hyperpigmentation by consumers worldwide. Similarly, every product we make is 100 percent natural. Be it making active ingredients or otherwise, our emphasis lies on 100 percent natural.

Q. Are you doing any new research in these areas?

At present, our patented product Konjac is produced (and consumed) in the form of tablets. We are doing clinical research on this product to assess whether it may be produced in the form of a topical, external application for human skin. There is a growing consumer interest and need in the US market for serums and ointments for skin health.

Our research is directed at bringing out new brand extensions of Konjac to address this need.

bountiful of molecules that can act as active ingredients. India’s vast bio-diversity is an advantage for the companies here. Knowledge of Ayurveda is another boon for the Indian companies.

High-quality products that are scientifically tested and proven form as the strength of our business. Only when our product is of high quality, we can guarantee about its efficacy confidently. Quality mandates that we invest heavily in science and technology.

Customers should rely on our brand name and recognise us as manufacturers of high quality products. When we market our products

In addition, we are also doing collaborative research with international food industry players to use Konjac as an ingredient in their food products such as candies, chocolates, or toffies. The idea is that you can enjoy your candy while Konjac does its job of maintaining your skin health—silently.

Q. What do you see as the top trends in various segments of cosmetics? What is your company’s strategy in those areas?

There has been a rising consumer demand for natural and organic globally. Customers have experienced the ill-effects of chemicals on their body. Therefore, they want nothing but natural.

As a company we too stand by our philosophy of providing 100 percent natural to our customers. The nature has a August - september 2019 / CosmediCindiA / 7

rendezvous

globally, we also represent the India brand. It is not only our reputation but also the reputation of India which is at stake.

As a company, our orientation is sophistication of extraction methods. The product we manufacture must be of zero defects and devoid of any bacteria. We need to always look for the best extraction methods and technology tools available. A lot of modernisation effort goes into making our factories world-class.

That’s why we have been investing in advanced technologies such as Supercritical Fluid Extraction (SFE). With SFE technology, we are able to produce high grade herbal extracts and oils with high A-'flavour intensity and with a full spectrum of phytonutrients. In SFE, the whole fragrance of the original substance is retained during the extraction process. With this we ensure that all extracts are 100 percent natural, authentic, and without solvent residues. These extracts open new possibilities where quality and added value are important.

Q. What are the new areas that you are currently looking at? Are there any challenges?

In addition to further research on Konjac, we are exploring the food market where our products can be used. There are challenges in nearly every R&D project and we have to relentlessly keep on investing our time and energies into new research. For instance, there are certain herbal whitening agents which show favourable results during in-vitro tests.

However, when these same ingredients are used as part of whitening creams, they fail to 8 / Cosmedicindia / August - september 2019

deliver the same results. Likewise, there are challenges at every stage.

Q. How do you tackle these challenges?

We have to carry out the research processes repeatedly with minor changes in conditions or material used to identify the reasons behind such failures. Why does a particular thing that works in a test-tube environment fails in real life conditions? The challenge is to zero in upon the specific factors or materials that cause such failures and proceed further. We also work with specialist partners for clinical trials wherever required.

How is your business structured? Tell us about your company’s spread of operations.

More than 90 percent of our revenue comes from exports. We hope to close the current calendar year with more than 100 percent growth. There is no slowdown in our industry.

People from all walks of life—all over the world—want to look good.

We have a direct presence in Europe, USA, India, South Korea and Japan where we have our manufacturing locations as well. We are opening a new R&D facility in France which will act as a window to the entire European market.

We did not focus much on the Indian market traditionally. However, we are targeting it consciously this year. India is a vast and promising market. Currently, we have our plants in India at Bengaluru, Kochi, and Puduchhery where we also have our sales and marketing staff stationed. We have a marketing office in Mumbai. Going forward, we will be expanding into the Northern and Eastern markets—step by step.

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August - september 2019 / Cosmedicindia / 9

strategy

ROHTO Pharma enters India's eye care market

Rohto Pharma, known for its anti-acne, pain relief and other cosmeceuticals, has secured an entry into the domestic market for eye care products by introducing cooling drops

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ncreasing screen time, persistent airconditioned environments and rising pollution levels have increased the prevalence of dry, irritated and tired eyes.

Such modern-day lifestyle changes combined with growing consumer awareness has given a major impetus to the over-the-counter (OTC) eye care market in India. A traditionally consolidated segment, the growth opportunity has been attracting newer players to the eye care category. ROHTO Pharma (India) is the

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latest to enter the OTC eye care segment with two eye drops, ROHTO Icy Clear and ROHTO Icy Fresh, to cater to dry, red and tired eye conditions.

ROHTO Drops with no blur

promise

instant

relief,

ROHTO Pharma (India), a division of the Japanese pharmaceutical major, is targeting the active, young Indian who is tech-savvy and open to self-medication. While ROHTO has been in the global eye segment for a long while now, they have just introduced their two eye drop variants in the domestic market.

ROHTO Icy Fresh is a dry eye aid, assuring fast action and long-lasting respite from dry and

High Performance Ingredients designed to create Innovations...

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Galaxy Surfactants Ltd C-49/2,TTC Industrial Area, Pawne,Navi Mumbai - 400703. PH: +91-22-27616666/39135500 FAX :+91-22- 27615883/27615886 August - september 2019 / CosmediCindiA / 11

strategy inflamed eyes. Interestingly, it claims to be a clear, non-blurring drop, when most lubricating eye drops in the market tend to blur the vision for a while. ROHTO Icy Fresh is aimed at consumers with extensive screen time in front of laptops, mobile phones and persons using contact lenses. It also offers relief to those impacted by smoke, dust and such other pollutants.

The other eye drop, ROHTO Icy Clear is aimed to alleviate redness and fatigue in eye, typically due to late nights and deficient tear production. It also provides cooling and relief from eye strain due to pollutants.

The eye drops will be available in handy 10 ml, clear bottles to carry along to work, travel or parties. Priced at $ 149/-, the drops are currently being retailed through sastasundar. com, ROHTO's online partner.

On the occasion of the launch, a spokesperson for ROHTO Pharma underscored the organisation's commitment to foster daily eye care for prolonged healthy vision. He pointed that the excessive exposure to harmful UV rays, blue rays from devices and increasing pollution levels have accentuated the need for eye care.

Changing Indian mindset towards eye care Traditionally, the Indian eye care market has been a conservative one, with people preferring to consult a doctor for their eye related issues, rather than resorting to self-medication.

Consequently, OTC eye care products have seen lower penetration when compared to the other self-care products. The Indian OTC market was pegged at $ 188.6 billion in 2016 as per a Nicholas Hall 2017 report, and expected to grow at a CAGR of 9 percent over the next ten years, to cross the $ 441.1 billion mark.

But the Indian OTC eye care segment is seeing a surge, owing to the rise in lifestyle related eye problems, burgeoning middle class with more disposable income and better consumer awareness about healthcare. Increased demand for convenience and easy accessibility 12 / CosmediCindiA / August - september 2019

to health care products are other factors driving this growth.

The Indian consumer today is not looking for health care solutions through just traditional avenues like doctors and chemists. The tech savvy generation is surfing the internet and looking up forums, blogs and even WhatsApp discussions to find remedies for minor health issues.

It is no wonder then that the OTC eye care segment has acquired traction over the last few years, witnessing the entry of newer domestic and foreign players. OTC pharma margins are lucrative at 20 -25 percent, nearly double of FMCG products.

Whose game is it anyway?

India is a fast-growing economy with huge unfulfilled demand for eye care. People are increasingly becoming aware of the negative effects like eye dryness, redness and fatigue owing to screen time and pollution. This will certainly hike the demand for OTC eye care products. But consumer acceptance of OTC products is heavily reliant on consumer appeal, convenient access and brand goodwill.

And players who leverage these factors will come out as leaders in the $ 400 crore dry eye condition market.

August - september 2019 / CosmediCindiA / 13

company watch

BASF launches its first Creation Center in India, to help customers turn creative ideas into solutions

BASF will provide resources to discover, understand and create new and improved products and solutions with BASF materials.

From inspiration to solution in one place: BASF Creation Center will empower customers in India Collaboration space offers cutting-edge resources including materials, advanced digital tools for simulation and prototyping, and consultancy

B

ASF launched a new Creation Center in Mumbai, India. Located at the state-of-the-art Innovation Campus in Navi Mumbai, the Creation Center will bring customers and BASF’s experts together to transform conceptual ideas into creative solutions.

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At the Creation Centers, equipped with worldclass workshop facilities and interactive material showcases, BASF will provide resources to discover, understand and create new and improved products and solutions with BASF materials. Customers will be able to explore materials, use interactive digital tools, and participate in ideation and material consultancy workshops. They will also have access to trend reports, material demonstrators and design events. Together with BASF experts, they can seamlessly collaborate from design development to advanced simulations through computer-aided engineering through to advanced prototyping – all in one place.

“We aim to help brands, companies and manufacturers discover new possibilities through hands-on exploration in an inspiring environment,” said Andy Postlethwaite, Senior Vice President, Performance Materials Asia Pacific, BASF. “We will offer a wide range of resources in unique collaborative spaces, to

empower designers, engineers and developers to create new products using BASF’s innovative material solutions, and support the emerging design requirements of the market.”

“Designers not only give a product its shape, surface, color, haptics and ergonomics, they also decide on the materials to be used at an early stage of product development. With the Creation Center, we empower designers, engineers and developers to explore the full potential of BASF’s high-performance materials, inspiring them to create the products of the future,” said Alexandre Dreyer, Leader Creation Center, Asia Pacific, BASF. Krishnamohan Narayan, Managing Director, BASF India Limited and Head, South Asia, said, “Increasing consumer demand in the automotive, footwear, furniture and consumer durables industries triggers immense opportunities for innovation. The Creation

®

Center will be a great platform to explore new ideas and future trends together with designers, engineers, developers and customers, thereby developing innovative solutions to meet the growing market needs. Further, our global network of Creation Centers at Shanghai, Tokyo and Germany will enable customers to access world-class technologies that promote better collaboration for mutual success.”

The automotive market in India is the fourth largest globally. In the consumer durables segment, India is one of the fastest growing markets in the world, driven by increased purchasing power. India is also the second largest consumer market for footwear and the fourth largest in the furniture segment.

BASF is launching Creation Centers at key sites worldwide: Tokyo, Japan; Shanghai, China and Ludwigshafen, Germany.

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August - september 2019 / Cosmedicindia / 15

company watch

Clariant Launches New Natural Alkaline Neutralizer for Hair & Skin Care NeutroTain DMG delivers on all fronts because of its excellent ecotox profile that exceeds any other alkaline neutralizer, high performance for functional claims, and suitability for novel formulation concepts. The industry’s only alkaline neutralizer to come from renewable feedstock, NeutroTain DMG is based on 75% sugars. It is also unique as it doesn’t require any GHS irritant labels.

Effective in Various Applications

Clariant Launches New Alkaline Neutralizer for Hair & Skin CareClariant has launched natural, uniquely label-free alkaline neutralizer, NeutroTain DMG, which paves the way for effective hair dyes, soaps, shaving gels and depilatory creams, gentle on the skin and environment Non-irritating Neutralizer o date, cosmetics’ formulators have lacked non-irritating and also naturalbased alkaline neutralizers when lowering high pH formulations such as sun creams or aqueous and hydroalcoholic gels.

Equally, for achieving the performance and aesthetics consumers expect from hair coloring and texturizing products, luxurious fatty acid-enriched liquid soaps, and hair removal products. This has become increasingly relevant when seeking to create products aligned with consumer trend preferences for mildness, “natural” ingredients and also a touch of differentiation.

T

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The latest addition to Clariant’s Functional Claims portfolio, NeutroTain DMG is proven to be effective in a wide range of applications. For aqueous and hydroalcoholic gels, it achieves viscosity and transparency that is similar to, or outperforms, alternatives. It also provides a natural, hazard-label free alternative for substituting conventional neutralizers and other chemicals without loss of performance.

For example, it successfully achieves the desired transparency of liquid soaps enriched with fatty acids for their excellent cleansing power and unique skin after feel. Ammonia can be replaced or reduced and still achieve dark Tonality 4.0 from hair dye formulations that are mild to the scalp.

No Hazard Labels When used in soap formulations it achieves good sensory profile and optimum foam from vegetable stearic acid formulations, comparable to the performance of conventional alkaline neutralizers.

Joao Tavares Correia, Head of Region EMEA, Industrial & Consumer Specialties at Clariant, commented: “NeutroTain DMG is a true allround innovation for formulators and brands because it ticks all the boxes for success. It’s naturally-derived. It’s sustainable. It carries no hazard labels. It performs minimally as well as conventional alternatives. Plus it can be used in multiple applications, and is easy to work with, so it has efficiency benefits too. This alkaline neutralizer fills the gap for cosmetics formulations that answer end-consumer needs and we are looking forward to exploring its potential with the industry.”

August - september 2019 / CosmediCindiA / 17

company watch

Gkhair Professional debuts color products in India

Beauty product consumers in India are increasingly becoming aware of the international consumption trends in the segment globally. Resultantly, there is a growing demand for 'grooming' in urban and also, nonurban regions. To leverage this trend, global beauty brands are giving the Indian market a higher priority for its product launches. The global hair care products brand Gkhair Professional has launched Color Masque line and made it available for all salon partners

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Khair Professional, a globally established name in hair taming and smoothing products, has introduced in India its color products for the first time – with the launch of its Color Masque product line.

The Color Masque line is available in the colors lavender, red and blonde. Using it also enhances

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your hair health with its deep conditioning and nourishing properties, the first to be offered by any hair-color brand in the world, a company press release claims. The new range is available at all GKhair Professional's partner salons across India The new range was formally launched in India jointly by GKhair Professional's Founder, CEO and President, VĂĄn Tibolli; and Arpit Jain, Founder and Managing Director of Auraine Botanicals Pvt. Ltd., the company's exclusive channel partner in the country.

Aesthetics and nourishment Informing that the launch of GKhair Professional's first color product in India also happens to be the global launch of the product, Tibolli says India's hair care market in India is currently witnessing a big growth with the rising popularity of grooming both in urban as well as non-urban regions. “With rising global influences, higher purchasing power and growing image consciousness among both men and women, there is an increased

potential for growth due to the escalating demand perceived from the consumer end.

With Color Masque, we not only offer aesthetic value to our consumers, but also nourishing properties for the hair - which no other brands offer,” he states in the press release.

Jain opines that the launch of Color Masque starting with India is just one of the many more milestones to cross in the future for the GKhair Professional- Auraine Botanicals partnership.

“We are glad to partner with a brand that has been the lead in numerous innovations in the hair care segment across the globe. India as a nation is growing at an unprecedented pace and this growth brings with it higher consumer awareness and international trends consumption. The superior product quality, backed by advanced technology and product innovation, makes GKhair Professional a leader in the category,” he is quoted in the press release.

Investment in research GKhair Professional, one of the world's leading names in 'the science of hair', claims to make substantial investment in research and development to constantly advance hair care technology, in their quest to offer innovative products. It is the first and only company in the world to exploit the beauty benefits of Juvexin, which is a blend of proteins extracted from sheep wool through an environmental-friendly process, claims the release, adding that in its products, Juvexin is delivered to the hair in its natural state. The 'GKhair Hair Taming System with Juvexin' is stated to restore hair by re-pairing and ensuring long-term hair conditioning and safeguard.

Juvexin is GKhair Professional's

foundation in creating controllable, frizz-free, and beautiful looking hair, according to a report in a beauty sector news website.

Since 2007, Ván Tibolli has guided GKhair Professional to become a leader in its segment.

Today, the company has evolved into a developer, trendsetter, marketer and global distributor of the most advanced hair care products in the world, says the release.

GKhair Professional products are used and recommended by top hair professionals in the finest salons across the world. Its product lines are represented by the industry's most esteemed hair stylists and educators, states the company website.

The company has a comprehensive training academy at its Fort Lauderdale, Florida headquarters to educate stylists, salon owners and other industry professionals. It also has many trainers and educators in the sector who work with the distribution partners to ensure that every salon professional who uses GKhair's line of products, is certified and fully understands the benefits for their clients.

August - september 2019 / CosmediCindiA / 19

e_retail

L'Oréal wins case against Shopclues.com In the last few years, several wellknown brands have been filing court petitions, complaining against fake products under their brand name, being sold by eCommerce websites. There are also a large number of smaller niche websites, with suspicious credentials, leaving consumers seeking genuine products, a vulnerable lot. Shopclues.com has also been barred from availing immunity provided to intermediaries.

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n a development that can bring some cheer to cosmetics and beauty product companies which complain about fake products bearing their brand name, being sold by online shopping sites, L'Oréal India has won a court case against online website Shopclues.com, accused of selling counterfeit L'Oréal products.

The Delhi High Court has ordered Shopclues. com not sell counterfeit products of L'Oréal, in a judgment that came almost four years after France headquartered cosmetics major had filed a case against the online shopping website. According to a media statement released by L'Oréal India, the court also ruled that Shopclues.com was barred for the exemption under Section 79 of the Information Technology Act, 2000 as the website's role was more than that of an intermediary.

If eCommerce websites and online shopping platforms wish to enjoy the immunity provided to intermediaries, they have to operate with restraint, the high court observed.

Sales authorization certificates from brands The court also ordered Shopclues.com to reveal complete details of all its sellers and their addresses and to also, acquire certificates from sellers declaring that the products being sold are genuine products of the sellers. It directed the eCommerce site to attain all brand's authorization certificate before uploading any of their products on its platform for sale, according to the statement. Shopclues.com

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was also restrained from dealing in L'Oréal products by way of a permanent ruling.

The statement issued by L'Oréal India, quotes its Managing Director, Amit Jain, as saying “Counterfeits is a serious issue faced by the beauty industry in India across online and offline platforms. This verdict will help us fortify our fight against online counterfeiting rampant on such marketplaces. We understand the importance of consumer protection and are hence encouraged by this first-of-its-kind decision.”

Rising trend of fake products' online sales During the last few years, there has been a number of petitions filed with the courts by both brands as well as consumers on fake products being sold online by eCommerce sites. With the rising popularity of online shopping, there has also been an increase in incidences of consumers being cheated into buying fake products of the big brands. Some of the biggest brands have in the last few years, helped seize thousands of fake apparels through court-supported raids on warehouses, belonging to either sellers or smaller fashion shopping websites.

Meanwhile, in early November 2018, Shopclues.com's parent company Clues Networks Pvt. Ltd. had declared its financial results for the financial year 2017-18, lessening its net loss by 40 per cent to Rs. 208.14 crore.

According to the filings accessed through Tofler, the business intelligence platform for India, the company reported a total income of Rs, 273.3 crore, an increase of 46 per cent from Rs. 187.1 crore in the previous year.

The same month also saw Shopclues.com diversifying into offline sales, focusing on the franchise model. It launched its first retail store in Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, featuring its exclusive labels along with offerings across multiple categories. To take its offline initiative further, ShopClues is reported to up with companies like iTiger (part of Sahaj Group) Aditya Birla Payments Bank, and Emart, with the objective of leveraging their retailer spread.

August - september 2019 / Cosmedicindia / 21

case study

Wild Stone introduces men's grooming products

The renowned cosmetics manufacturer headquartered at the city of joy, McNROE is expanding its product basket under the Wild Stone brand targeted at men

H

ouse of McNROE has launched a sevenproduct men's grooming range under its Wild Stone Edge Collection while exploring newer advertisement strategies.

Endeavouring to promote an affable brand persona with its tagline, log toh notice karenge hi, the company hopes to achieve favourable consumer response for its new products under the Wild Stone brand across the country.

However, McNROE seeks to extend the quality of affability to its latest launches in a different light. With this launch, the company intends to attract a younger, college-going segment of consumers. Hence the tag,

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#JustFriendsNoMore, as it instantly puts the spotlight on the younger masses. The company, now headed by Ankit Daga, son of the promoter Narendra Kumar Daga plans to expand its business from fragrances and perfumes to a wider personal care category of cosmetics.

The company's newest range of products under the Wild Stone Edge Collection includes shower gel, hair gel, face wash and shaving foam. The Edge series previously involved perfume, deodorant and after-shave lotion.

The new campaign Though the company's previous campaign earned Wild Stone an Effie Honour for Best Marketing Campaign in 2017, the task in hand, considering the new launch was to target a group of younger consumers. While the idea behind the protagonist 'Kunal' in its brand commercial was of a guy who could flatter a woman's family, the newer product revolves

base and increase consumer loyalty towards its brand.

Fragrance: The secret element Wild Stone's selective 'fragrances' being their strongest attribute, introducing newer brands and categories within it would increase their demand and consumer satisfaction, claims the company. Wild Stone's previous advertising campaign worked wonders for the company's products, triggering further brand developments, the company mentions. By advertising it across different media like print and digital and focusing majorly on television, consumers chose Wild stone for its easy going yet tempting flair. With McNROE's latest addition to the Edge series, it aims to take this affability further, in a more spirited fashion.

The ulterior reason behind this launch can be derived from its various other competitors also launching a few high-end products in the male around a college guy who could flatter the girl after using the perfume – projected as a peppier and livelier fragrance.

Though Wild Stone proves to be a star product for boys and men alike, the company is also expanding its female grooming segment launching fresh products under its Secret Temptation range targeted at female consumers.

While 70 per cent of the company's revenue comes from deodorants, the non-deodorant products account for the remaining 30 per cent. These include talcum powder, wet wipes and shaving products. The men's skincare products industry has boomed during the past few years and has many companies responding to the target group's needs. Understanding this growth and need, a separate segment of McNROE is being dedicated to establishing these latest products after its two successive launches – Secret Temptation and Wild stone. With this, the company hopes to create a new consumer-

grooming category. Currently, Vini cosmetics (Fogg) has a 16 per cent volume market share in Q1 2018, McNROE (Wildstone and Secret Temptation combined) has a 9.9 per cent share, followed by ITC (Engage), Nivea and Park Avenue. There also exists a stiff competition in the online segment from brands like Gillette, Garnier Men, Beardo, etc.

Starting off as a small factory in Orissa and then establishing a house in Kolkata, McNROE was named after the tennis legend John McEnroe.

Launching brands like Secret Temptation (perfumes and deodorants for women), Heavens Garden (luxurious fragrances for the premium consumer) and Wild Stone (grooming products for men), the company claims to have become the second largest manufacturer of deodorants outperforming the competition.

Backed and

its

sustained

promotions,

by

McNROE

commercials says

to

be

steadily expanding its business footprint and consumer base.

August - september 2019 / Cosmedicindia / 23

bulletin

Godrej Consumer Products eyes ` 300-crore turnover in 3 years

Our prices are 60 per cent of MNCs’, and we are looking to increase our presence across salons in the country.

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he professional hair-care market in India stands at ` 1,200 crore Godrej Consumer Products Ltd (GCPL), which entered the professional hair-care market nearly two years back, is eyeing a 25 per cent market share and a turnover of `300 crore in the next three years.

The professional hair-care market in India stands at `1,200 crore and has registered 8-9 per cent growth over the past few years. The space is currently dominated by MNCs such as Loreal, Estée Lauder, Wella and Schwarzkopf.

“The target is to have a 25 per cent market share over the next three years (FY22). With 25 per cent market share, our turnover is expected to be around `300 crore,” Ketan Takalkar, Associate Vice-President, Godrej Professional, GCPL, said without revealing the current turnover of the segment.

Godrej Professional is a brand of professional hair-care products, including hair colours, shampoos and conditioners, which are sold

24 / Cosmedicindia / August - september 2019

to the salons. End-consumers can buy these products from the salons, too. The brand operates under the Godrej Consumer Products division of the Group.

Takalkar said the company would foray into other categories such as hair treatments, texture and styling by the end of this year.

Colour and hair-care offerings account for 65 per cent of the hair-care market in the country.

“Our prices are 60 per cent of MNCs’, and we are looking to increase our presence across salons in the country. Offerings in the hair treatment, hair texture and styling categories are expected by the end of this year,” he said.

Expansion plans As a part of its growth plan, Godrej is planning its range of professional offerings across 10,000 salons by the end of FY19. Over the next three years, the target is to take its offerings to 50,000 salons across India.

“The best MNC brand is present in 5,000-odd salons or so. And we, on our part, are looking at a 10x growth compared to any MNC,” he said.

acquisition & mergers

Nouryon acquires leading Chinese metal alkyls producer

The acquisition will substantially raise Nouryon’s global TEAL production and strengthen its position as a leading global producer of TEAL.

customers in this fast-growing market,” explained Nouryon’s Managing Director Polymer Chemistry Johan Landfors.

ouryon has acquired Zhejiang Friend Chemical Co. (Friend), the largest Chinese producer of triethyl aluminum (TEAL) – a metal alkyl used in the production of high-volume polymers, such as polypropylene and polyethylene.

The acquisition includes products, technology, customer lists and a manufacturing site in Jiaxing, located 100 kilometers southwest of Shanghai. The company will also evaluate opportunities to expand operations at Jiaxing, Landfors said. Friend’s approximately 60 employees will join Nouryon, including the company’s founder, Mr. HaiQing Zhang, who will serve as a senior consultant.

The acquisition will substantially raise Nouryon’s global TEAL production and strengthen its position as a leading global producer of TEAL. The deal also makes the company the only truly global producer of metal alkyls.

“Friend has a great reputation in the industry and with this acquisition we’ll now have manufacturing facilities in Asia, Europe and North America, enabling us to better serve our

This deal is Nouryon’s second recent deal to strengthen its position serving the polymer industry. Late last year, the company completed the acquisition of Brazil-based Polinox, South America’s leading producer of ketone peroxides, used in the production of various plastic and composite products.

“We will continue to support our growth plans with strategic, bolt-on acquisitions,” said Nouryon’s CEO Charlie Shaver.

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August - september 2019 / CosmediCindiA / 25

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Pigmentation Treatment - Shahnaz Husain

The first aspect of the treatment is protection from the sun. Actually, as part of the treatment, one should try to avoid sun-exposure as far as possible.

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xposure to the ultra-violet rays can lead to dark patches or pigmentation of the skin, because the melanin is transferred to the skin surface in an uneven manner. The cause may be an internal one, but sun-exposure makes it visible on the face in the form of dark patches. Repeated exposure to the sun causes the patches to become more apparent and persistent.

The first aspect of the treatment is protection from the sun. Actually, as part of the treatment, one should try to avoid sun-exposure as far as possible. Physical protection is the only answer by applying a sunscreen before going out in the sun. Select a sunscreen with SPF of at least 20.

The sunscreen should be applied 20 minutes before sun-exposure, to allow it time to be absorbed by the skin. It should be reapplied if you are in the sun for longer than an hour. The effects of the sun increase near water bodies

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and snow, as they reflect the sun's radiation.

Therefore, it becomes all the more important to protect the skin and re-apply the sun screen after 20 to 30 minutes.

If the skin is dry, it should be kept moisturized at all times. At night, after cleansing, apply a nourishing cream and massage it on the skin with a few drops of water. This helps to improve the skin’s ability to retain moisture.

The use of scrubs and masks also help to remove dead skin cells and their contained pigment.

This helps the dark patches to gradually become lighter. External care, itself, can remove pigmentation permanently, provided protective care is followed afterwards. Even when the pigmented patches disappear, one should continue to use a sunscreen. In fact, the use of a sunscreen has become an important part of modern cosmetic-care, to protect the skin from problems and premature ageing.

As a home remedy, you can try applying a little sesame seed (til) oil and pat the skin with a hot moist towel. Or, apply a little milk, with a few drops of honey, leave it on for 10 to 15 minutes and wash off with water. If you wish to make a cleanser at home, add 5 drops of oil to one

The Shahnaz Husain treatment pigmentation is as follows:

for

In the morning, after cleansing, apply Shawhite Lotion only on the dark patches, using cotton wool. After 15 minutes, apply a sunscreen on the entire face if you are going out in the sun, OR apply a moisturiser according to skin type on the entire face and leave on.

In the evening, apply Shafair Cream only on the dark patches and leave on. Do not expose the skin to the sun after applying Shafair Cream.

tablespoon cold milk. Mix it well. Using cotton wool, use this mixture to wipe the skin. You will find that milk is very soothing to dry skin.

At night, after cleansing, apply Shalife Nourishing Cream on the entire face if your skin is normal to dry. Massage it on the skin with a few drops of water and wipe off with moist cotton wool. At night, apply Shablem Ointment only on the dark patches by rubbing it into the skin and leaving on all night.

August - september 2019 / CosmediCindiA / 27

company watch

Personal care brand Arata Zero Chemicals raises seed funding, DSG Consumer Partners leads round

The company sells nature-derived, vegan and chemical free unisex skin and hair care products. In their press release they have stated it aims to use the funds for new product development, product launches, marketing, building the team and investment in its online and offline presence.

A

rata has raised seed funding of Rs 3.5 crore from early stage venture capital firm DSG Consumer Partners, AngelList India and Rajan Raghavachari, former personal care research and development director at Unilever.

Arata Zero Chemicals, a New Delhi-based sells wide range of nourishing, plant-based wellness products that are 100% naturederived, chemical-free, and completely nontoxic in personal care segment. Arata was set up in February 2018 by Dhruv Madhok, a former strategy consultant in the US and UAE and Dhruv Bhasin, a former finance executive

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in the UK and India. The company sells naturederived, vegan and chemical free unisex skin and hair care products. In their press release they have stated it aims to use the funds for new product development, product launches, marketing, building the team and investment in its online and offline presence.

Arata sells its products online across various marketplaces as well as on its own website. The company also has a curated offline presence across select modern trade stores in Delhi-NCR. they catered to over 10,000 customers across the country and plans to increase its reach through online marketing and distribution in the next 12 months.

Deepak Shahdadpuri, Managing Director of DSG Consumer Partners, commented, "Consumers across the globe are becoming more conscious about the safety and efficacy of personal care products they use on a regular basis. At the same time, younger consumers are showing a strong preference for natural and plant-based ingredients. We believe there is huge scope for an honest, clean label everyday personal care brand that consumers can trust."

August - september 2019 / Cosmedicindia / 29

ADVT 30 / Cosmedicindia / August - september 2019

Talk to us for more information 101-103, Shyam Kamal 'D', Agarwal Market, Vile Parle (E), Mumbai - 400 057, India Tel: +91-22-2619 1161 | Tel: +91-22-2619 1001 | Email: info@pioma.net

ADVT August - september 2019 / CosmediCindiA / 31

consumer connect

Need a new model to predict mildness The current generation of consumers has never been so well informed and increasingly hold brands to account if they suspect they are being misleading or disingenuous in their marketing messages.

INTERIM REPORT DEVELOPING A MORE ACCURATE MODEL FOR PREDICTING THE MILDNESS OF PRODUCTS TO SKIN

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he number of consumers in developed countries who report that their skin experiences uncomfortable symptoms like tightness, dryness, itching, burning or redness is thought to be as high as 91%*. It’s no wonder then, that formulators are increasingly putting mildness at the top of their priority list for a successful new product.

No longer just the province of baby care products, cosmetic companies are using innovative ingredients, including novel bio surfactants and plant extracts, to make impressive claims about the mildness of products ranging from shower gels to make up removers and sunscreens. In turn, these ingredients, plus increasing consumer demand, are allowing brands to charge a premium for their gentle properties.

CLAIMS NEED SOLID EVIDENCE

The current generation of consumers has never been so well informed and increasingly hold brands to account if they suspect they are being misleading or disingenuous in their marketing messages. So, consumers want ultra-mild formulations, with credible scientific claims that they are safe and efficacious, but without animal testing. How can companies rise to this challenge?

In this rush towards ultra-mildness, consumer safety remains the primary responsibility for everyone in the supply chain. Claims must be backed up by solid scientific evidence including real data from the lab and / or human trials. Previous assumptions that natural ingredients are automatically safe are being challenged, and more frequently, finished mixtures are being tested for safety, not just their ingredients.

The trend towards milder products fits naturally into wider appeals for higher ethical standards integrity and transparency in the industry.

In particular,’cruelty free’ is now gaining momentum on a global scale. So despite the expectation to avoid animal testing, consumer still want to know that new products are safe for them to use. That’s where new animal – free technologies and human volunteer trial come in.

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WORKING FROM A FLAWED FOUNDATION Traditionally, lab-based in vitro safety tests have been judged based on whether they generate data that agrees with animal methods. This is now widely recognised as a flawed approach.

If the two sets of data don’t match, which one is more reliable? Most animal tests were never validated; there was very little to benchmark them against in the 1960s / 1970s. Adopted as the only available strategy at that time, over the years they became the “gold standard” without adequate scientific scrutiny, resulting in a shaky foundation on which to build new innovative approaches.

Today’s animal-free tests are subject to a much higher scientific standard, including extensive international, multi-lab validation trials and independent peer review of the data. They can also be more sensitive, ranking ingredients or

formulations in order of likelihood to irritate the skin as well as giving a binary yes/no answer to whether the item is an irritant. However, a major drawback is the ongoing requirement to validate these tests against historical animal studies. A more reliable benchmark is needed… ideally data from human trials which are the true gold standard. While this is very difficult to obtain for many human health endpoints, skin irritation data (aka mildness data) is relatively easy to collect and poses minimal scientific or ethical barriers.

NEW PROJECT AIMS PREDICTIVE MODEL

TO

IMPROVE

In the first project of its kind, UK based laboratories XCellR8 and Cutest are collaborating in a 2-year project funded by Innovate UK. We are combining our in vitro and in vivo experience respectively to enhance the August - september 2019 / Cosmedicindia / 33

consumer connect safety of consumer products by increasing the human relevance and sensitivity of predictive tests for mildness. We set out to validate an in vitro test method through direct correlation with human patch test data.

The project has 3 key stages: 1. Optimising the In Vitro and In Vivo Test Methods 2. Assessing Predictive Capacity 3. 3Real-Life Applications OPTIMISING THE TEST METHODS Optimisation of both in vitro and in vivo human test was needed to assess very mild formulations in details HUMAN IN VIVO Previously, the standard in vitro test for skin irritation (OECD Test Guideline 439) was developed and validated using reference chemicals which had a range of irritation potential across industry sectors. By

(keratinocyte) viability assessed by metabolism of a tetrazolium salt (MTT) to a purple product, detected using spectrophotometry. Results are expressed as the ET50 value - the time taken for viability to drop to 50% of the untreated control value.

HUMAN IN VIVO Human Repeat Insult Patch Testing (HRIPT) has long been the accepted “gold standard” for assessing the potential for an ingredient or product to cause skin irritation in normal use, including for FDA and other global regulatory authorities. Patch testing uses an exaggerated exposure to the test sample, generally with occlusion, in an attempt to illicit a reaction if the product has irritation potential. The exaggerated protocol is therefore a surrogate for the likely number of reactions that could be observed in the tens of thousands of consumers who might buy the product. For global brands, it is critically important to be able to predict the potential for adverse effects that could cause damage not just to millions of customers, but

14 Day Cumulative Irritancy 14 Day Cumulative Irritancy 30

10 D

9 8

20

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C 10

A

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Figure 1: Results of a 14 day HRIPT patch test by Cutest

comparison, today’s cosmetic and personal care formulations are much milder, so we need more sensitive tests to detect subtle differences between them.

The in vitro test used in this project was adapted from the widely used ET50 method using human reconstructed skin models.

Ingredients or formulations were applied to the surface of the models for a range of extended exposure times up to 48 hours. Samples were then rinsed from the skin surface and skin cell 34 / Cosmedicindia / August - september 2019

to their reputation too.

However, cosmetics mildness testing doesn’t prescribe a consistent patch test and many different exposure times can be used, from 24 hour single applications, through to 21 day HRIPT protocols. To put this into context, Figure 1 shows actual data from a 14 day HRIPT patch test conducted by Cutest on products being developed by a major brand. At the early assessment time point of 48 hours, the observed clinical irritation was very low for all

Beauty Care Asia Pacific Summit 2019

December 5-6, 2019 · Mandarin Orchard Singapore —A

EVENT

Your Window to the World’s Fastest Growing Beauty Market What you will learn • Status, trends, and regulatory developments for the beauty industry • Analysis of the obstacles and opportunities available regarding the latest regulations • Expert case studies on approaches to sustainable development • Exploring the evolution of consumer behavior, consciousness, and consumer groups • Revealing the consumption potential of men’s category products • Establishing connections between consumer loyalty and omnichannel marketing g in the digital era • Evaluating the possibility for CBD in niche markets such as K-beauty • Constructing a premium platform for seamless information exchange and networking

For further information, please contact: August - september 2019 / CosmediCindiA / 35 Ms. Cindy CUI Tel.: + 86 21 5258 8005 ext. 8253 Email: events@duxes.cn Website: http://www.beautycare-asia.com/

consumer connect products. However, as the test progressed, significant numbers of volunteers experienced clinical signs of irritation.

This illustrates that the methodology needs to be sufficiently rigorous and sensitive to ensure that potential problems are observed. If the test had been for 24 or 48 hours only, the product would appear to have low irritation risk but could have generated significant complaints when large numbers were sold. It’s vital for consumer protection to continually improve the methodologies used to predict product mildness.

ASSESSING PREDICTIVE CAPACITY A small panel of widely used surfactants was selected to validate the correlation between in vitro and in vivo human test methods. We used 3 traditional surfactants known to have varying skin irritation potential, along with a novel, non-ionic plant-derived alternative (biosurfactant), marketed for its mildness to skin. The samples were blind-coded for both the in vitro testing at XCellR8 and the human patch testing at Cutest. In all cases, the same batch numbers and storage conditions were used to ensure the maximum value of the data comparisons. After the data was generated using the well-known surfactants, we produced a prediction model to correlate in vitro data with human in vivo data. Excitingly, this can be used for future studies to predict the human in vivo response based upon the in vitro response.

HUMAN IN VITRO The four surfactants (A-D) were tested using the in vitro system comprised of reconstructed human epidermis tissue models. The

surfactants were dosed onto the surface of the tissue models and viability measured over a time-course using 5 time points; 1, 5, 18, 24 and 48hrs alongside negative controls (sterile water) and positive controls (1% Triton X-100). The viability values generated over each time point were then analysed to obtain the ET50 value for each surfactant by nonlinear regression and were ranked in terms of mildness. The ET50 values were as follows: D = 122.9 (mildest), B = 23.76, A = 8.33, C = 6.793 (least mild) i.e. the longer the ET50 time the longer it takes for the viability to Wdecrease by 50%.

This study was repeated across multiple experiments. The data from our initial studies showed that we can obtain clear distinctions between known surfactants with differing mildness using the in vitro system even after short time points. These results correlate with the data generated in the initial human in vivo studies, giving a positive proof of principle for the project and providing data for generation of a prediction model.

HUMAN IN VIVO For the initial patch testing experiments, we used a daily clinical assessment schedule over 5 days, together with Chromameter measurements (a* value) of the test sites. The data in Figure 3 shows the change in a* value (skin redness) at each assessment time for each of the test samples. The control is untreated skin. The different relative irritation potentials of the samples were clearly observed. Clinical scoring of the irritation agreed with the instrumental assessments (not shown). This data also illustrates that using very short patch test methodologies would not discriminate Chromameter Values 14 13 12 Chromameter a*

Percentage of viability relative to untreated control

ET50 Determination: 4 Surfactants

11 10 9 8 7 6 2

Figure 2. Mean viability values relative to negative control generated across a time-course (1, 5, 18, 24 and 48 hrs) for 4 well known surfactants: A (green line/diamond markers), B (light pink line/square markers), C (gold line/triangular markers), D (dark pink line/circular markers). ET50 values were generated from the viability data. Rank order of mildness based upon ET50 values: D > B > A > C. Mean Âą standard deviation shown, n = 3 biological replicates.

36 / Cosmedicindia / August - september 2019

3

4 Day

Figure 3. The change in a* value (skin redness) at each assessment time for each of the test samples. Rank

between some surfactants that behave similarly at day 3 but show larger cumulative irritation by day 5 (e.g. A and D).

5. Testing the mildness of a new mild shower gel formulation against the original formula as well as two competitor products.

Following these positive results from the first round of experiments, we are now looking at enhancing the sensitivity of the test to detect smaller differences between product performance and to develop shorter but more sensitive HRIPT methodologies that surpass the current protocols in general use.

Further case studies are planned. We are interested in natural or synthetic ingredients and formulations, and would like to build substantial data on both; this will be published in peer reviewed literature.

REALIFE APPLICATION These initial studies have given us sufficient confidence to go ahead with a number of research-based case studies for cosmetic companies and material suppliers. We are working with several leading UK brands to generate in vitro / in vivo comparisons and support the development of mild formulations, including: 1. A detailed study on different blends of surfactants, looking at how they interact synergistically to affect the overall mildness of the product. Both pH and salt concentration are known to affect the chemistry of surfactants and we have built these factors into the studies of the various blends. The study will be published soon in a peer reviewed scientific journal and enables companies to utilise the optimum surfactant blends to achieve the mildest formulation while maintaining an affordable retail price.

2. Identifying the most likely source of mild irritation observed in previous human studies for a range of face masks. We obtained good correlation in vitro and went on to test key raw materials to identify the most likely sources of the irritation observed, providing key information for new product development.

3.

A B C D Water Control 5

k order of mildness: D > B > A > C.

Checking for enhanced mildness of a recently reformulated range of wellknown moisturisers.

4. Assessing baby formulations containing newly developed mild ingredients, compared with the standard versions of the products.

ENHANCED CONSUMER SAFETY Comparing today’s innovative formulations with historical animal data is increasingly difficult to justify, from both scientific and ethical perspectives.

However, we still face an absence of reliable benchmarks to validate new lab based (in vitro) procedures against. This project directly addresses the issue for skin irritation / mildness. Additionally, it seeks to improve the methodologies for in vitro and in vivo mildness testing to provide better predictive capability. Ultimately, we aim to enhance consumer safety by maximising the relevance of test methods to humans in everyday, real life scenarios.

REFERENCE: XCellR8 provides entirely animal-free safety and efficacy tests to the cosmetics, personal care and chemical industries. Regulatory tests include assessments for skin or eye irritation, skin sensitisation and skin corrosion whilst nonregulatory tests include cytotoxicity, genotoxicity and acute toxicity. Clients include ingredient manufacturers such as Croda and Innospec, as well as high street retailers Lush and The Body Shop, both in the UK and globally. Our work has been recognised at a regulatory level by the OECD and the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), and supported by top funding bodies such as Innovate UK and the European Horizon 2020 programme.

Cutest is a CRO based in Cardiff which specialises in dermatology studies for the personal care, medical device and pharma industries, with customers globally.2019 will be the 35th anniversary of our founding and we continue to hold to our original principles of quality and contributing to dermatology research, that hasled to over 70 peer reviewed scientific publications andother articles over our history.

https://x-cellr8.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/ XCellR8-Mildness-Report-FINAL.pdf August - september 2019 / Cosmedicindia / 37

pre-event

Groundbreaking Event to Address Asia-Pacific’s Growing Beauty Sector—Your Window to the World’s Fastest Growing Beauty Market

Our prices are 60 per cent of MNCs’, and we are looking to increase our presence across salons in the country.

T

he international cosmetics industry has experienced a rapid rise in recent years, especially in the Asia-Pacific region, which accounted for a striking 39 percent share of global market growth last year.

New technologies are influencing marketing and consumer appetite as never before, and the latest trends are appearing quickly and decisively. Set against this important background, Duxes will host the 1st Beauty Care Asia Pacific Summit (BCAP) from December 5-6, 2019 in Singapore.

This groundbreaking summit will gather representatives of leading industry associations, cosmetics brands, manufacturers, retailers, market analysts and scientific researchers to cover the latest industry and

38 / Cosmedicindia / August - september 2019

regulatory conditions in the Asia-Pacific region.

The speakers will also address such topics as social media marketing strategies, ingredients and product formulations, opportunities in the organic beauty care market, online and offline retail integration, as well as the growth of niche beauty and how to leverage new platforms with smart digital strategies.

The 1st Beauty Care Asia Pacific Summit (BCAP) is Duxes’ debut event tackling the beauty market in the region, but follows a series of several events covering the health food and wellness sectors in China, and across Asia, which have been acclaimed for their thorough content and interactive format. Professionals and entrepreneurs working in retail, branding, manufacturing and related fields, are welcome to attend.

Without a doubt, this summit will offer delegates a platform to gain a better understanding of the market through wellorganized communication and networking

activities. The Beauty Care Asia Pacific Summit 2019 (BCAP) will provide a platform for policymakers, marketing professionals, and representatives of leading brands, cosmetics companies, and researchers, to share knowledge on the booming beauty sector in the Asia-Pacific region.

What you will learn (highlights) • Status, trends, and regulatory developments for the beauty industry • Analysis of the obstacles and opportunities available regarding the latest regulations • Expert case studies on approaches to sustainable development • Exploring the evolution of consumer behavior, consciousness, and consumer groups • Revealing the consumption potential of men’s category products • Establishing connections between consumer loyalty and omnichannel marketing • Methods for integrating online and offline models in marketing in the digital era

• Evaluating the possibility for CBD in niche markets such as K-beauty • Constructing a premium platform for seamless information exchange and networking For further information, please contact: Ms. Cindy CUI Tel.: + 86 21 5258 8005 Ext. 8253 Email: events@duxes.cn Website: http://www.beautycare-asia.com/

August - september 2019 / Cosmedicindia / 39

company watch

New precipitated silica for whitening toothpastes

SPHERILEX® 145: For a softer whitening experience

With the launch of SPHERILEX® 145, Evonik introduces a new technology to the oral care industry.

E

vonik Business Line Silica launches new specialty product, SPHERILEX® 145, for the oral care industry. White teeth and a bright, perfect smile have been the largest oral care trend over the last decade and continues today stimulated by the visual social media environment. To meet these customer demands, Evonik now launches SPHERILEX ® as a new solution for toothpaste formulators.

other formulating whitening ingredients like phosphates and chelants.

Kristina Boedtger, Global Marketing Director for Oral Care Silica states, “SPHERILEX® 145 is our new whitening silica providing consumers with whiter smiles from their everyday toothpastes.

The COSMOS label makes it ideally suited for natural products and a great addition to our diverse portfolio. Our SPHERILEX® technology really enhances customer’s formulations.”

All silica oral care products are produced under the highest safety and quality standards.

SPHERILEX® 145 meets USP-NF ‘Dental-Type

With the launch of SPHERILEX® 145, Evonik introduces a new technology to the oral care industry. Thanks to the spheroidal shape of the product, high cleaning levels can be achieved while providing lower abrasion to dentin, enamel, fillings and other oral hardware. This effect also holds true in combination with 40 / Cosmedicindia / August - september 2019

Silica’ and EP ‘Silica, dental type’ monographs, and is listed as a “derived mineral ingredient” in the Annex D of ISO 16128-1 with the INCI name “Hydrated Silica”. All Oral Care SPHERILEX® grades conform to COSMOS as a non-organic raw material and are certified Pareve, Kosher, Kosher for Passover, and Halal.

Evonik is a leading global manufacturer of silica. In addition to the fumed silica AEROSIL® and the precipitated silica ULTRASIL®, SIPERNAT®, ZEODENT® and SPHERILEX®, Evonik also produces silica based matting agents under the brand name ACEMATT® and other fumed metal oxides under the brand AEROXIDE®. Overall, Evonik has a global production capacity for all silica based products of about 1 million metric tons/year.

Company information Evonik is one of the world leaders in specialty chemicals. The focus on more specialty businesses, customer-oriented innovative prowess and a trustful and performanceoriented corporate culture form the heart of Evonik’s corporate strategy. They are the lever for profitable growth and a sustained increase in the value of the company. Evonik benefits specifically from its customer proximity and leading market positions. Evonik is active in over 100 countries around the world. In fiscal 2018, the enterprise with more than 32,000 employees generated sales of €13.3 billion and

an operating profit (adjusted EBITDA) of €2.15 billion from continuing operations.

About Resource Efficiency The Resource Efficiency segment is led by Evonik Resource Efficiency GmbH and produces high performance materials and specialty additives for environmentally friendly as well as energy-efficient systems to the automotive, paints & coatings, adhesives, construction, and many other industries. This segment employed about 10,000 employees, and generated sales of around €5.5 billion in 2018 from continuing operations.

Disclaimer In so far as forecasts or expectations are expressed in this press release or where our statements concern the future, these forecasts, expectations or statements may involve known or unknown risks and uncertainties. Actual results or developments may vary, depending on changes in the operating environment.

Neither Evonik Industries AG nor its group companies assume an obligation to update the forecasts, expectations or statements contained in this release.

August - september 2019 / Cosmedicindia / 41

bulletin

Dabur Babool Ayurvedic Paste will be available in four SKUs India Ltd Marketing Head-Home and Personal Care Mr. Rajeev John said.

Dabur Babool Ayurvedic Paste will be available in four SKUs of 25gm, 60gm, 100gm and 175gm, priced between Rs 10 and Rs 50.

“Dabur has always been a pioneer in spreading the goodness of Ayurveda and has been working towards creating products that offer the proven benefits of Ayurveda, in modern day convenient formats.

I

ndia’s leading Science-based Ayurveda Company Dabur India Ltd today announced the expansion of its toothpaste portfolio with the launch of the new Babool Ayurvedic Paste.

Targeting the Value segment of the toothpaste market, the new Babool Ayurvedic Paste is packed with powerful Ayurvedic ingredients like Babool, Clove, Triphala, Pudina and Patchouli, offering all-round protection for the entire family from all dental problems.

“Dabur has always been a pioneer in spreading the goodness of Ayurveda and has been working towards creating products that offer the proven benefits of Ayurveda, in modern day convenient formats. Building on our heritage, we are now launching this new product that has the wisdom of Ayurveda and is backed by strong research and development,” Dabur

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“Dental hygiene is an absolute necessity for overall well-being. Dabur Babool Ayurvedic Paste is a unique oral care experience that is packed with the goodness of Ayurveda, is great tasting and highly effective. Besides its proven health benefits, Dabur Babool Ayurvedic Paste also stands out as a competitively priced alternative compared to other toothpaste brands in the market. With Babool Ayurvedic, we are confident of catering to a much broader market base in the years to come and expanding our market share,” Mr. John added.

Dabur India Ltd is today the Number 3 player in the toothpaste market with highly differentiated product portfolio -- Dabur Red Paste, Babool and Meswak. Red Paste is an Ayurvedic offering validated by science for keeping dental problems away. Babool toothpaste has the known and proven ingredient Babul for the value seeking consumers, for strong teeth.

Like Babool, Meswak has the unique ingredient of Meswak for complete oral care. With this portfolio, Dabur offers effective oral hygiene solutions for every Indian. The efficacy of our products is not only proven by technology but billions of Indians swear by it.

About Dabur India Ltd. Dabur India Limited is one of India’s leading FMCG Companies. Building on a legacy of quality and experience for 135 years, Dabur is today India’s most trusted name and one of the world’s largest Ayurvedic and Natural Health Care Company. Dabur India's FMCG portfolio today includes five flagship brands with distinct brand identities – Dabur as the master brand for natural healthcare products, Vatika for premium personal care, Hajmola for digestives, Réal for fruit-based beverages, and Fem for fairness bleaches & skin care.

company watch

Ami Polymer has shown their best performance once again!

Getting the Pharma innovation award among top 50 companies is sky touching experience for Ami Polymer Pvt. Ltd. Ami Polymer is India based silicone product manufacturing company established in 1998 by Rubber technologist Mr. Alpesh Gandhi.

Ami Polymer Pvt. Ltd. (APPL) has enjoyed tremendous growth in last 5 years by achieving many milestones. Many new initiatives by Ami Polymer is mentioned below: • 1st Indian Silicone Product manufacturing company to have Toxikon USA lab based E&L study.

• 1st and only Indian Silicone Product manufacturing company to register the products in NSF-51, USA • 1st Indian Silicone Product manufacturing company to register the products in USFDA DMF. At present APPL has registered 7 DMF in USA and 18 Registered trademarks for Rubber, TPE and Steel based products.

The rising growth index is outcome of dedicated staff for production and R&D. Here, Leaders are motivated to take new challenges and innovations.

Ami Polymer has applied for several patents mentioned as below: • Imaliner Bilayer TPE tubing for chemical resistance • Conductive silicone formulation development • Metal detectable silicone Formulation Development.

At present APPL is serving food, pharma, and medical based companies with core products.

With creating wide opportunities of established products in new industries, Company also enjoys business from cosmetic, chemical, electrical, engineering sectors.

APPL loves challenges and the best advantage is to provide customized solutions with least possible time.

We’ve seen our business improve each year but we’ve also seen the award nominations get stronger each year. And an armful of awards under its belt doesn’t hurt business.

With having highly flexible approach for development, there are 5000+ verity products available with Ami Polymer.

Every pharma companies are now looking to join hands with Ami Polymer Pvt. Ltd. to develop high quality products.

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policy & regulatory

Johnson & Johnson’s baby shampoo, which were picked up in India.

The CDSCO’s took several weeks for analyzing the results of the retest. This result overruled the earlier test results that were found to be erroneous.

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random test was conducted on the two batches, consisting of 24 bottles of Johnson & Johnson’s baby shampoo, which were picked up in India. The test was conducted to check for the presence of any harmful ingredients like formaldehyde, which is used as preservatives in shampoo. According to experts, formaldehyde can cause cancer in humans.

On March 5, 2019, the Rajasthan Drugs Control Organization, after the tests, showed results affirming the presence of formaldehyde in the samples obtained from both of these batches of Johnson’s baby shampoo, which is manufactured by Johnson & Johnson in India.

“Johnson & Johnson is now claiming they have

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not used formaldehyde in the product, but it’s showing in the test.” said Raja Ram Sharma, Drug Controller of Rajasthan. J&J rejected the findings of the organization and challenged the Rajasthan drug controller’s claim as well as the method of testing that led to the results.

“We do not accept the interim results given to us, which mentioned samples to ‘contain harmful ingredients’ – identification positive for formaldehyde.”, J&J spokesperson said.

Since J&J claims that it has not used formaldehyde or any ingredient capable of releasing formaldehyde, the Central Drugs Standard Control Organization (CDSCO), acted as an appellate laboratory following a Magistrate court’s order for re-testing the samples of J&J’s baby shampoo, which were picked up from India. The CDSCO’s took several weeks for analyzing the results of the re-test.

This result overruled the earlier test results that were found to be erroneous.

After the appellate laboratory’s result, the

Rajasthan FDA, posted report on their website, “that concluded the investigation and said that, showing re-testing results of samples by the appellate laboratory confirming that Johnson’s Baby shampoo does not contain formaldehyde,” Johnson & Johnson said that the safety of its

baby shampoo has been reaffirmed by the Central Drugs Standard Control Organization’s laboratories, which have confirmed that the product does not contain formaldehyde and that the company’s own testing and quality assurance process is rigorous – meeting the standards in every country where its products are sold.

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award & achievement

Neelikon conferred with the ‘SME Elite 50’ award

Mr. Mukund Turakhia with the “SME Elite 50” Trophy

Neelikon being awarded with the prestigious “SME Elite 50” award for the year 2018-19 in the Small and Medium Sized Enterprise segment instituted by ICICI Bank, partnered with CRISIL and ET Now. This award is a recognition as one of the Best Entrepreneur in the SME sector in India.

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eelikon recently announced that Mukund Turakhia, Founder and Managing Director, Neelikon was presented the prestigious ‘SME Elite 50’ award for the year 2018-19 in the Small and Medium Sized

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Enterprise segment instituted by ICICI Bank, partnered with CRISIL and ET Now. The award is a recognition as one of the Best Entrepreneur in the SME sector in India.

“Neelikon thanks ICICI Bank, CRISIL and ET Now for this excellent recognition and also all stake holders for their continuous support. This award will further motivate Neelikon on path of offering world class products and services to its customers,” stated the press release issued by the company.

As a fact Neelikon was awarded the Prestigious “SME Business Excellence Award” for the year 2017‐18 instituted by Dun & Bradstreet in association with RBL Bank under the category of “Mid‐Corporate Segment” for excellence in the Chemicals sector.

app_techology

ILAMED Launches Real Time Aesthetic Medicine Mobile App for Physicians

ILAMED Mobile App, an online resource where physicians from across the globe can collaborate, discuss and consult with each other to provide the highest quality care to their patients.

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LAMED, the largest Aesthetic Medicine Training network in India and Abroad exclusive to physicians, today introduced ILAMED Mobile App, an application that allows physicians to access the country’s greatest concentration of Aesthetic medicine knowledge in real-time. ILAMED Mobile App, an online resource where physicians from across the globe can collaborate, discuss and consult with each other to provide the highest quality care to their patients.

“ILAMED Mobile App allows members quick and easy access to the knowledge and expertise of leading specialists in the field, throughout the country, anytime, anywhere,” said Dr. Ajay Rana, Founder and Director of ILAMED. Key features of ILAMED Mobile App includes: • Fast, easy access to ILAMED Forum discussions about clinical cases, practice

management and more • Anytime, anywhere access to the ILAMED community to ask questions or share opinions • Ability to author and track posts directly from a mobile phone • Notifications that keep members informed of the latest developments in aesthetic medicine • Guidance for clinic set-up • Latest Updates Medicine/Surgery

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Aesthetic

• Job Opportunities “Turning the concept of real-time aesthetic medicine into reality has been our vision for some time, and this technology allows physicians to immediately impact patient care.” Adds Dr. Rana.

About ILAMED: ILAMED is one of the few professional educational institutions in the World that provides training and hands-on courses in cosmetology & aesthetic medicine to licensed cosmetologists & physicians, who are willing to explore and attain scientific excellence in this field.

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product &process

Ointment/Multipurpose Mixer

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intment manufacturing plant fount a various application in Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Industries for creams, Lotions, paste Production and homogenization.

Main components of Ointment/Cream plant are Water Phase vessel, Wax Phase Vessel, Main Mixer & Storage tank ( and also Required valves and fittings) WORKING PRINCIPLE

Raw materials are charged as a batch & is subjected to indirect heating while undergoing rotary action. The conical shape of the dryer ensures efficient circulation of hot liquid heating media. The drying operation is being at low temperature under vacuum that is why it is economical and effective for drying pharmaceutical, temperature sensitive or easily oxidizable products. When the solvent is present in the wet powders, the recovery of Roto Cone Vacuum Dryer solvent is easily possible.

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Drying takes place when the dryer is heated from outside through jacket & vacuum is applied from inside. The drying operation is based on the principle that water or other volatile product moves from a zone of high vapour pressure to a zone of low pressure.

This is accomplished by warming the product to be dried to rise the vapour pressure of the absorbed or free liquid, by decreasing the vapour pressure of the gas by vacuum, or by sweeping it away with an air current. Thus the essential conditions for effective drying are efficient and uniform heat transfer throughout the batch and rapid removal of the vapours.

Contact Person: Mr. Satish Joshi : +91-9920853316 Email: cesales@gmail.com sjoshi@gmail.com Address : 319, Mahesh Industrial Estate, Opp. Silver Park, Mira-Bhayander Road, Mira Road (E), Thane - 401104, Maharashtra. INDIA Tel.: +91 22 28555 107 / 631 / Email: mktg@ amipolymer.com | Web: www.amipolymer.com