Dorset & Hampshire Country Gardener November 2023 by Country Gardener

Dorset & Hampshire

1998-2023

Join in the return in popularity of dried flower growing and arranging fleshed apples PLUS: Red Should we ban bonfires? Readers solve your mole problems

1998-2023

COUNTRY GARDENER

ING FOR W

DRIED and TESTED!

GR O

Issue No 212 NOVEMBER 2023 FREE

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U N T RY G A

Be more adventurous with herbs

Autumn sowing for sweet peas

Cut back on your lawn and

Autumn garden news from all over Dorset and Hampshire

improve your garden

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CUTTINGS

Gardeners cuttings

in Dorset & Hampshire A LOOK AT NEWS, EVENTS AND HAPPENINGS IN YOUR AREA

Sculpture By The Lakes awarded botanic garden status Sculpture by the Lakes in Dorset has been recognised for its gardens and plant conservation efforts to become one of only eight UK sites to receive botanic garden accreditation. The Dorchester-based beauty spot has become one of only 83 official botanical gardens in the world. Monique Gudgeon, garden director for the site, said achieving the status was an “emotional moment” and “testament to years of hard work and dedication”. Places recognised by Botanic Gardens Conservation International in the past include Cornwall’s Eden Project. To achieve the accreditation, gardens must submit evidence for ten assessment areas including conservation activities, sustainability and public engagement. The work saw the venue collaborate with experts in plant conservation to develop a collection of critically endangered conifers. Sculpture by the Lakes, Pallington Lakes, Dorchester DT2 8QU

RACHEL DE THAME HEADS HIGH PROFILE SPEAKERS AT POWDERHAM FESTIVAL

Rachel de Thame

Sue Kent

BBC TV presenter, garden writer and columnist Rachel de Thame and award winning presenter for BBC’s Gardener’s World Sue Kent will head up the speakers at the 10th anniversary Toby’s Garden Festival at Powderham Castle next May. The popular two-day event takes place on Friday 3rd and Saturday 4th May. As well as hosting BBC Two’s flagship gardening show Gardener’s World, Rachel cohosts all the major RHS gardening shows for the BBC including The Chelsea Flower Show. Rachel will be at the Powderham event on Saturday 4th May. Sue Kent is an award-winning presenter, an RHS Ambassador for disability and an RHS and Gardener’s World Live garden design medal winner. Sue is a hugely engaging presenter and live events are interesting, fun and informative. Sue’s new book Garden Notes reinforces her message to share ideas and information, helping others to gain a greater understanding of how they can unlock their own abilities through design and plant choices while protecting environmental resources and wildlife. Sue will be speaking at the festival on Friday. Also booked in to speak at the anniversary show are: Jaqui Felix-Mitchell is the founder of Oasis Garden Design, an artisan garden design studio based in Devon with a huge following throughout the county. Becky Searle is an ecologist, botanist and kitchen gardener best known for combining science with gardening and her passion for soil. She is a garden writer with over 15 years of gardening experience. Becky has a unique ability to explain why to do things in our gardens rather than just how. The garden festival will again be a focal point for all things gardening with an impressive list of specialist nurseries with again emphasis on quality local food, drink and crafts. Early Bird tickets fro the event offering substantial savings are available now at www.tobygardenfest.co.uk

New community garden ‘reconnects with nature’ A new community garden has been opened in Weymouth. The Park Community Garden will become within St John’s Gardens and has been created in partnership with Dorset Council and Weymouth Town Council. The space was launched by Litter Free Dorset and is part of their Reconnecting with Nature Spaces project, which aims to improve health and wellbeing across Dorset by bringing

nature to small outdoor spaces. The project is specifically aimed at residents with learning disabilities or dementia, helping them to gain better access to, or use of, outdoor spaces and promoting wellbeing following the Covid-19 pandemic. To ensure the ongoing maintenance of the space, Litter Free Dorset is collaborating with two local groups that work with young adults with learning disabilities, members of Green Fingers and stABILITY.

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“Money can’t buy happiness except at a garden centre” - Anon “The colour of springtime is in the flowers. The colour of winter is in the imagination” - Terri Guillemets

Can you open your garden for the National Garden Scheme?

Have you considered opening your garden for the National Garden Scheme? By opening your garden, you’re not only giving people a great day out – you’re also raising money to help those in need. In 2022, garden openings meant the NGS could give £3.11 million to their beneficiary charities that include Macmillan Cancer Support, Marie Curie, Hospice UK, Parkinson’s UK, Carers Trust and The Queen’s Nursing Institute. The NGS are always keen to have more open gardens, and to offer visitors a range of garden styles, sizes and locations. Some of the existing gardens are large while others are small but full of plants. Also on the lists are allotment gardens, school gardens, hospital gardens, and groups of gardens in a village or a street where the owners have got together to organise an open day with a combined admission to view the gardens. Opening your garden to the public may seem daunting at first, but if you’re passionate about your garden, and your friends tell you how lovely it is, then it’s very likely other people will want to visit your garden too. Your garden would be included in the prestigious yellow Garden Visitor’s Handbook, in the county booklets, and on the NGS website, and the county volunteer teams offer lots of support. So whether your garden is big or small, if you think it has quality, character and interest, they would love to hear from you and arrange a visit. Email hello@ngs.org.uk call on 01483 211535 or you can contact your local volunteer team who will be able to answer your questions. The NGS county organiser for Hampshire is Mark Porter, who can direct you to the relevant person for your part of the county, on 07814 958810 or email: markstephenporter@gmail.com In Dorset the NGS county organiser is Alison Wright, who can be contacted on 01935 83652 or email alison.wright@ngs.org.uk

CUTTINGS

Island garden is a first for National Trust tropical garden A unique island garden is now free to see at Winchester City Mill and is a first for the National Trust. The garden, designed by students from Sparsholt College, has a micro-climate by the river enabling tropical plants to thrive. The project, at the mill in Bridge Street, has been a year in the making and will allow the garden to better tolerate a range of climatic conditions including prolonged periods of hot dry weather and heavy rainfall. The island garden can be enjoyed for free by visitors as an extension of the Mill’s indoor café, giving people a peaceful space to take refreshments. Fifteen designs by the Sparsholt horticulture students were whittled down, with Nina Inman-Cook’s tropical arrangement catching the eye of the National Trust team. Nina, 20, from Twyford, said: “We had the opportunity to put forward three ideas. I did not expect mine to be chosen at all. “I thought I’d end up working in landscaping but now I’m a designer. This project was 100 per cent the reason I got my job, it gave me the confidence to try something I hadn’t done before. It’s all been very unexpected; it’s changed my career plan. “I haven’t been involved in the planting process so it’s lovely to see how my idea has come to life.”

TRIO OF TOP AUTUMN EVENTS AT SIR HAROLD HILLIER GARDENS There’s a number of high-profile events staged over the next few weeks at the Sir Harold Hillier Gardens in Romsey. Share the passion for heritage roses You can join former Mottisfont Abbey head gardener David Stone at the gardens, on Wednesday, 1st November as he shares his passion for heritage roses. This illustrated talk tells the story of the history of the ornamental garden rose, David’s favourites, as well as some useful maintenance and care tips. Coffee at 11am, followed by lecture and a two-course lunch served in Jermyn’s House set in the heart of the Gardens. Price £32.50. Meet the Champion trees The Hampshire gardens are home to the largest collections of Champion Trees in the British Isles. With over 600 Champion Trees - the tallest, widest or oldest of their species. The gardens are planning to share

the fascinating history on Saturday, 4th November of the tree collection and some of the best autumn colour on display. With a special guided walk which will last approx. one and a half hours finishing with a slice of cake and hot drink. Don’t forget to wear your walking boots! Price: £19 includes a coffee and a slice of cake and booking is essential. Gardening for wildlife lecture Your garden does not need to be an unkempt wilderness to be a haven for wildlife! The Gardens host a lecture with Andy McIndoe on Wednesday, 22nd November and is about how you can make your garden wildlife friendly as well as beautiful to look at throughout the year. For instance: wildflowers and meadows: is there a place in your garden; the value of ponds and garden habitats in gardens of all sizes and a few small changes can make all the difference! The two lectures take place on Wednesday, November 22nd at 11am and again at 2pm. Price: £19 including coffee on arrival. Sir Harold Hillier Gardens, Jermyns Lane. SO51 0QA

Invasive bamboo problems at record levels Invasive bamboo is becoming a major problem for gardeners throughout Dorset and Hampshire according to Environet UK. A record number of householders this year have had to seek help restricting the invasive plant. Environet UK says homeowners do not seem to realise most species are invasive if left unchecked, with the ‘running’ varieties extending for up to 30ft beneath the ground. Easy to grow, hardy and tolerating most soil types, bamboo has flourished in popularity among gardeners in recent years, particularly favoured in urban areas for its screening qualities, creating privacy in overlooked gardens. But it’s the running types that can cause headaches for homeowners, sending out long, lateral rhizomes up to 30ft from the main plant, causing the plant to spread with new shoots unexpectedly appearing in new locations. Due to the extraordinary distance the roots can travel, running bamboo has the potential to push through brickwork, drains, cavity walls, patios and exploit cracks or weaknesses in concrete. In a recent case, a homeowner in Gloucester had bamboo growing up between the skirting board and the wall in his living room, having encroached from next door’s garden and exploited a weakness in the property’s foundations. Gardeners are advised to use a subsurface barrier or root barrier to stop bamboo spreading; it is a solution like planting your bamboo in a large pot which is submerged underground. The barrier contains the roots and prevents runners from cropping up elsewhere in your garden.

If your gardening club or association is getting back into full swing after the restrictions of the past couple of years be sure to let Country Gardener know. Send your club meetings and outings details to timeoff@countrygardener.co.uk

GARDENING CLUB EVENTS AND MEETINGS IN DORSET & HAMPSHIRE

NOVEMBER 2ND

Dorset, Dorchester & District Gardening Club

9TH Petersfield Gardeners’ Club

MONTHLY MEETING 10TH

Blackmore Vale Bonsai Group

MONTHLY MEETING Details on 07837 781744 14TH Lymington Gardeners Club

‘HILLIERS GARDEN THROUGHOUT THE YEAR’ - DAVID JEWELL Details on01590 672909 Woodlands Gardening Club

‘FOR THE LOVE OF ROSES’ - GILLIAN TAYLOR 15TH Milford Gardeners’ Club

‘CHRISTMAS FLORAL IDEAS’ - WENDY LOCKLEY Details on 01305 268523

‘PLANTS FOR PROBLEM AREAS’ - RIGER HIRONS www.milfordgardenersclub.co.uk

Verwood & District Horticultural Society

Ringwood Garden Club

‘GARDENS WORTH A JOURNEY’ - MIKE WEBBER Details on 01202 827622 4TH

16TH ‘HOLME, THE MAKING ON A NEW PUBLIC GARDEN’ - SIMON GOLDSACK Details on 01202 574875

Shaston Gardening Association

21ST

6TH

‘MY LIFE ON THE ALLOTMENT’ - PETER WHITING Details on 01202 752014

MONTHLY MEETING www.shastongardening association.weebly.com

Ferndown & District Horticultural Association

‘NATURE OF THE VERCORS - A SECRET CORNER OF FRANCE’ - MIKE READ Details on 07790 089889

Highcliffe Horticultural Society

‘BUGS: SPINELESS FRIENDS AND FOES IN THE GARDEN’ - BRYAN PINCHEN Details on 07769 748187 Wimborne Gardening Club

MONTHLY MEETING Details on 01202 888703 7TH Medstead Gardeners Club

‘SHRUBS, THE BACKBONE OF YOUR GARDEN’ - GEOFF HAWKINS www.medsteadgardenersclub.xyz 8TH Totton & District Gardeners’ Society

‘COLOURS OF THE CARIBBEAN’ - CAROL WATSON Details on 023 80292761

Parkstone Gardeners Society

22ND Sturminster Newton Garden Club

‘BIG YELOW BUS PROJECT’ - PAUL WILLIAMS Details on 01258 471147

Uplyme & Lyme Regis Horticultural Society

AGM & ‘THE ART OF DISHEVELMENT’ - CHARLES CHESSHIRE Details on 07767 261444 28TH West Parley Gardening Club

‘THE GARDENS OF SINGAPORE’ - ROD DARCH Details on 01202 896711 29TH Warsash Horticultural Society

‘TRIALS AND TRIBULATIONS OF LORDINGTON LAVENDER’ - ANDREW ELMS www.warsashhorticultural society.chessck.co.uk

SPIKE, SPIKES AND MORE SPIKES!

BORN TO SURVIVE

Anyone who hasn’t found it easy to keep houseplants alive can breathe easier as there is now a formal list of plants which seem very difficult to kill

Houseplants continue to grow in popularity but there are still a swathe of gardeners lacking confidence in their ability to keep plants alive. It has all added up to a search for the toughest, born-to-survive houseplants aimed at those who may have accidentally killed a few houseplants in their time and would prefer to develop some confidence about their green fingered ability to keep plants thriving, There is some good news for this group. A number of wholesaler growers of plants have linked up to produce a list of the houseplants which are truly the toughest as they are concerned that too many people who want to keep more houseplants are genuinely concerned about getting the right watering, compost and temperature routine. How did they go about it? Well, of course, by leaving several varieties in a dark closet without water for three weeks. Five plants made it through the challenge still looking fabulous. Others failed badly. No plant is bulletproof, but these varieties clearly don’t mind low light (or periods without light). They’re exceedingly forgiving when you forget to water them, and low humidity doesn’t pose a problem, either. Give one of these tough houseplants a try and you may find it nearly impossible to kill.

1. Ponytail Palm

Long, grasslike leaves atop a bare stem give ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) a palm tree-like appearance, although it’s actually a type of succulent. It stores water in its thick trunk, which enables it to go long periods without moisture. However, ponytail palm will do best if you water it whenever the soil feels dry and place it in bright light. It is a tough survivor.

2. Sago Palm Feathery, dark green leaves on top of a short stem give sago palm (Cycas revolata) a bold texture. Often wider than it is tall, sago palm adds a tropical touch to all kinds of design styles. Grow it in bright to low light and add water only when the soil feels dry to the touch.

3. ZZ Plant Thanks to its dark green, glossy leaves, you might mistake ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) for a faux plant. It remains a very popular houseplant. The leathery foliage is not only part of this plant’s beauty, but also contributes to its toughness. The leaves seal in moisture, making the plant very tolerant of dry conditions. It also stores water in its bulb-like roots, and only needs to be watered when the soil feels dry. ZZ plant is a good pick for an office or a home without natural light because it does just fine under fluorescent lights.

4. Snake Plant

Stiff, upright leaves make the snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata) a popular choice that goes well with just about any interior design style. Larger snake plants work well as a floor plant in a dim corner. The smaller varieties make stunning accent plants on a tabletop. Snake plant does best in bright light, but still will grow in low light. It’s not demanding when it comes to water, either. Just give it a drink whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.

5. Chinese Evergreen With patterned leaves splashed or speckled with silver, gold, red, or cream, Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema spp.) is at home just about anywhere. Exceptionally tolerant of low light, it will even grow in areas without natural light, such as an interior office. Water Chinese evergreen when the soil is dry to the touch. 6

Diane Redfern turns her attention to the dramatic and spiky teasel Everything about the teasel is spiky– the stems, leaves, ‘sepals’ and even the flower. Here, there and everywhere there is a spiky, rigid prickle and yet, bees, butterflies and birds especially gold finches love them. Once teasels arrive in your garden, naturally or by design I am sure that you will want to welcome them though they do tend to self-seed just about anywhere even in tarmac and in paths ¬- wherever they feel happy. Teasels are tall (up to six feet) but usually do not need staking unless in a very exposed position. They are elegant and spectacular biennials. In their first-year compact prickly rosettes of leaves are produced and now is perhaps the time to remove unwanted plants. In the second year it will be time for flowers. I find myself waiting for the wonderful cone shaped flowers. They produce bands of purply/bluish flowers that begin in the centre of the flower head and then spread upwards and downwards from there. This is when bees and butterflies start to arrive though how they manage to push aside the spikes I cannot think. As the flowers fade to brown they remain on the teasel and will be there winter long. That is when the next treat comes as goldfinches arrive in, maybe family groups, called charms, to extract the many, many seeds. Again how such small creatures manage to penetrate the spikes right into the seed head I cannot explain. In fact in my garden they select the teasels rather than the purpose built feeders that are filled with niger seed especially for them! The teasel has other attributes: on a

cold frosty or snowy day their outline will be beautifully etched in frost. They also make excellent decorations with other seasonal plants at Christmas time especially if sprayed with gold or silver paint for example. They are also used in floristry decorations. In spring it will be time to cut back the teasels and put them on a brash pile maybe because a new generation is ready to grow. Easy gardening with huge pleasure added. There is some debate by scientists and experiments being carried out to see whether the teasel might be a carnivore. The leaves are very unusual for they are cupped around the stem so that water collects in the hollow so formed. I have certainly seen birds drinking water form the little reservoir but insects drop into the water and usually cannot escape so they die. It is apparently possible that teasels use the dead mush as food. Some experiments that compare teasels with insects trapped and those without notice that although the plant does not grow more prolifically there are more and larger seeds thus ensuring healthy new generations. Another line of thought is that the water prevents insects such as aphids from climbing up to the flower and damaging it.

Did You Know? In the past it was found that by fluffing up the wool, it created tiny air pockets in the fibre which prevented the heat from escaping as quickly. The teasel was used to raise the ends of the fibre on the wool cloth which created these air pockets. Teasing (carding) made the wool seem fuller, hence the name of the teasel. Some weavers still use this process and more are likely to, I believe. It works!

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Country Gardener

YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Garden advice for November There’s a distinctive early winter feel to some of the questions from Country Gardener readers this month. If there is a gardening problem or query you would like help with, send your questions to Country Gardener, Mount House, Halse. Taunton TA4 3AD or email us at editorial@countrygardener.co.uk

Conifers are used to cold weather so does my real Christmas tree in its pot need protecting from the frost?

Jane Prescott Tiverton The roots of all trees and shrubs in pots are at risk of being frozen when the temperature drops and stays below freezing. Conifers and evergreens are in some ways more at risk as they are still growing, if slowly, over the winter. Deciduous trees and shrubs are dormant. Lift the pot or tub off the ground with bricks or pot feet and put bubble wrap around the sides of the pot. Place pots and tubs together in a sheltered area of the garden. This helps to create a microclimate and reduce the frost damage.

I have a new plastic greenhouse and I am not sure how much it will help protect plants this winter. Marc Greasham Exeter Temporary plastic greenhouses are better than no protection at all, but do not give the same degree of defence against frost as a proper glass greenhouse will. You can line the inside of the frame with horticultural fleece to add that extra layer of warmth for your plants. You should check regularly on plants in unheated greenhouses and cold frames, as part of your cold weather gardening tasks. They should generally be frost free areas but plants touching the window panes of the greenhouse risk being damaged by frost. You can give individual plants extra protection by standing them on a layer of newspaper or cardboard.

I have become very keen on houseplants in our new home and am building up a lovely collection of unusual plants in rooms all over the house, However, I just can’t get rid of insects which seem to be taking over some plants. Louis Fairbrother Dawlish It’s not unusual for houseplants brought in from the outside to have insects on them, so when you buy a new plant isolate it for a week or two on an enclosed porch or patio. It is important to examine all plant parts and containers before bringing them indoors. A magnifying lens may be needed as some insects are quite small. Look at the tops and bottoms of the leaves and the stems for any holes, eggs, or webbings. Watch for any leaf discoloration and look for sticky honeydew substances that could be an indication of aphids, mealybugs, or scale insects. Some insects like fungus gnats will move when the plants are watered. If you spot insects, the plants can be wiped down with a damp cloth, infected leaves can be pruned, the soil can be replaced by sterile soil, and some pests can be picked off. If these non-chemical methods do not eliminate the pests, it may be best to dispose of the plant rather than infect other house plants.

My mature, variegated holly drops half of the leaves at this time of year and at the moment in September looks a very sorry sight. Is there anything I can do? Nicky Porter Barnstable Like most evergreens, holly will drop its leaves when stressed in some way. Water stress would be the first thing to check for at this time of the year and it would be worth looking for any indications of pest infestation or disease. However, holly is generally quite a tough and resilient species, and a mature one will often ride out any pest or disease problems without the need for intervention. If the tree appears to be otherwise healthy then I would put this down to normal leaf drop. Even evergreens need to discard old leaves to make way for new ones. Provided that the shoots are green and healthy then you needn’t worry - fresh new leaves will be produced to replace those lost.

I recently bought a beautiful flowering Acacia dealbata from the garden centre. When I got it home, my neighbour saw me planting it and told me that it was unlikely to survive in my back garden through the winter. There was nothing on the label that said it wasn’t hardy so I planted it against the fence which gets most sun. Is it likely to survive? Pat Thorne, Thorne Portsmouth Your new acacia is likely to do well in the sunny spot you have chosen and should fare well in winter, if the temperature does not drop below -5°C. They do best planted in the ground in a good sized space to allow for their very quick growth. The good news is that if acacias need pruning, they regenerate well from older wood. Should pruning be necessary in future, do this straight after flowering.

I have a tree peony which I bought two years ago. It does not seem to progress at all. It is still a small pathetic looking plant and has never flowered. I was thinking of replanting it but I would like to know what sort of compost to fill the new hole with. Andy Sampson Poole Tree peonies are notorious for being slow to flower. They really need to be well established before they start to produce blooms and this can take three years or more. It’s also worth checking that they are growing in suitable conditions and making improvements where necessary. If conditions are unsuitable for the plant then it may be better to move it, but remember that this will delay establishment further still. Tree peonies are at their best in sunny positions and won’t do well in shade. They also need shelter from cold drying winds and strong early morning sunlight. Check the soil isn’t too wet as the plant will struggle and eventually rot. If you do decide to replant it then you can mix some ordinary multipurpose compost into the soil before you dig your hole. Don’t be tempted to backfill the planting hole with just compost it needs to be mixed thoroughly with your own garden soil. Feed your peony with a high potash fertiliser during the growing season as they are heavy feeders. Tree peonies do require a lot of patience, but they are well worth the wait! www.countrygardener.co.uk

Why is my fig tree losing leaves?

Dave Wilson

Gloucester The bottom leaves on fig trees are usually the oldest leaves because most new growth on fiddle leaf figs occurs at the top. It’s normal for bottom leaves to droop and eventually fall off because the tree just doesn’t need them anymore. If your tree drops a leaf or two from the bottom, don’t panic. Both overwatering and underwatering can result in fig tree leaf drop. Instead of watering on a schedule, water your fig any time the soil, an inch below the surface, is dry to the touch.

Please can you recommend a green manure for planting on the veg patch over winter - to cover the bare soil vacated by the onions and carrots. Owen Browne Sent by email There are several different green manures that you can use. Choosing the most beneficial one really depends on what you are trying to achieve. If your soil is on the heavy side then a Grazing Rye might be useful. It has extensive roots that will improve the soil structure. Alternatively you might just have time for a crop of Buckwheat which can be dug in at the first frosts. This has a very deep root system that will break up heavier soils and sub soil. Crimson Clover is better on sandy soils to add water retentive humus. On soils that are low in fertility then Phacelia is particularly useful and not too troublesome to dig in.

Every year we have more and more ants in our garden - the lawn has more and more nests. I use ant powder but it doesn’t seem to work. Ants are generally quite beneficial in the garden as they feed on sap sucking aphids and the honeydew that they produce. But I can appreciate why you wouldn’t want them living in your lawn. Ian James Jame Chepstow There are numerous products on the market from powders to gels that can be used to kill a nest. The gels are often found to be slightly more effective so it might be worth trying one of them. You can also buy nematodes that are watered onto the area and these are found to be very effective too. The other option is to find a way to live with them. You can reduce the mess made when mowing by raking over and excavated soil mounds on a dry day prior to mowing. If you can encourage birds into your garden then they will readily dispose of any ants and eggs that are brought to the surface by this process.

Can I move a gooseberry bush? I planted three a few years ago and they are clearly in the wrong place. Dave Eagleson Okehampton The answer is yes and it should be straightforward. The best time to transplant a gooseberry bush is when it is dormant - December to late February is the ideal time. As a fail-safe, it might be wise to take four or five cuttings before transplanting the bush. The best time to take gooseberry cuttings is late September to late October. Gooseberries grow well in large containers of soil-based compost. Mulch the surface to keep weeds at bay.

I emptied a large compost bin which had topsoil - however I did not find any worms. Does this mean the soil is unhealthy? Malcolm King Taunton Worms will only be present in soil if there is a supply of organic matter for them to eat, such as dead leaves, decaying plant material or manure. The soil in the compost bin could have lacked organic matter or it may have become too saturated with water or too dry for worms to be happy. Also if it has been in there for a while there could be a lack of oxygen in the soil. Once the topsoil is spread back out in the open many creatures should start to inhabit it again. You can help improve your soil by digging in lots of organic matter such as well rotted manure or compost.

How do I renovate my Judas tree? It is looking rather sad for itself with lots of dead wood. Summer temperatures are not always enough for the wood on the tree to ripen and the tree to flower successfully the following spring. Problems with watering or soil drainage can cause verticillium wilt and other fungal issues so there are several things which can go wrong. So, remove any dead leaves or branches and dead wood. The Judas tree is very sensitive to the soil type and prefers chalky or limestone soil. It hates acidic soil. It will also grow better in rich, deep soil so replanting may be the first real option you have.

Winter wonderlands FOR WILDLIFE

The plight of our precious songbirds is well documented; they are being silenced. Many once common species are missing from our gardens, with Britain losing over 73 million birds over the last 50 years. You can vow to make a winter wonderland for wildlife this #NationalRobinDay on 21st December and celebrate by providing a haven for songbirds and sharing the charity SongBird Survival’s tips and tricks.

BABY IT’S COLD OUTSIDE With the days getting shorter and the temperature dropping, this can be a difficult time for birds to weather. Songbirds can’t carry many fat reserves, as they need to remain lightweight for flight, and so can suffer when there is a sharp decline in temperature. In a very cold winter, small birds like wrens and robins can be hit very hard, and other species that rely on soil invertebrates, like worms, can struggle to get enough to eat as the ground freezes over. Getting water can be a hard task, as water freezes over, so make sure to keep a fresh water supply in your gardens! A nifty trick to keep the water from freezing is to put a ball in the birdbath, so that birds can get a drink even in the coldest weather.

ROCKIN’ AROUND THE CHRISTMAS TREE On a cold winter’s night, there is nothing better than being wrapped up by the fire, and birds feel just the same. Provide shelter in the form of trees or dense bushes. You can even recycle your Christmas tree by putting it on the ground in your garden for small birds to take shelter in.

MISTLETOE AND WINE Natural food sources are in short supply in winter, so give a thought to robin red-breast whilst tucking into your mince pie, and follow these tips to keep him well fed: • Provide food consistently; birds must spend precious energy searching for food, so The winter months are putting out food at the same tough for many birds time each day will really help. • High energy, high fat foods are great for keeping birds warm, try making some home-made fat balls following SongBird Survival’s recipe on their website. • Share the spoils of the Christmas dinner! Soft fruits, grated cheese and biscuit crumbs are great choices, but avoid feeding bread, turkey fat or raw meat. • Plant bushes and trees that flower and fruit. They provide year-round for songbirds and are invaluable in our concrete jungles. Hawthorn and elder are great choices!

ROCKIN’ ROBIN

Robins are the UK’s favourite bird

Voted the UK’s favourite bird, the robin is a symbol of Christmas cheer and glad tidings. This winter, celebrate #NationalRobinDay on 21st December by sharing your robin photos, bird care advice and thoughts with SongBird Survival, by following on Instagram, Facebook and X or through the website www.songbird-survival.org.uk

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READERS LETTERS

Have your say... Your views, opinions and thoughts in our regular letters column from Country Gardener readers. Contact us at editorial@countrygardener or write to us at Mount House, Halse, Taunton, Somerset TA4 3AD

A TREE TO INSPIRE

Wormeries back in fashion

We have returned the other week from Poland and a visit to some old relatives. While we were there we were privileged to see what was voted the European Tree of the Year – a 400 year old English oak growing in an ancient forest. The tree can be found in the ancient Bialowieza Forest near the border with Belarus. The tree is now a popular tourist attraction that locals have dubbed ‘Dunin’, a name symbolic of polish resistance to aggression. Members of the public are invited every year to cast votes based not on the good looks of a tree but on its story or significance to the local community. The Polish tree is a wonderful link between nature and human courage.

I read that wormeries are back in fashion and I am delighted if that is the case. I bought my first worms about ten years ago and the wormery processes most of our kitchen waste- teabags, veg peelings, salad leftovers, banana skins, paper waste and even cardboard. I also add spent compost, a few leaves and torn up egg boxes. The worms are very rewarding and what I get is wonderful dark, crumbly compost at an astonishing rate. I hope more people will take the time to learn how to use a wormery to dispose of waste material and turn it into a garden resource.

Natalie Frost Minehead

Terrence Swift Bath

I’ve been put in my place

A simple tomato mistake: gardening has a habit of putting you in your place. My tomato crop has been looking good throughout the early summer. I then made two mistakes- because of other things I wasn’t consistent with my watering regime. Then I thought the weather some evenings was too cold and I kept closing the greenhouse windows and doors and then forgetting to open them the next day. Good ventilation is one of the most important aspects of a greenhouse. I know that but I didn’t do it. The result – fruit splitting on so many of my tomatoes. And no one else to blame !

REMEMBER CUCUMBERS NEED GOOD VENTILATION

I read in your October issue about the number of readers having a poor cucumber season. This has been my experience over the past couple of seasons and the problem certainly on my part came from poor ventilation in the greenhouse. The humid warm air can quickly become stagnant and encourage fungal diseases and my cucumbers were badly affected by cucumber downy mildew (Pseudoperonospora cubensis) which affects growth in the crucial early stages. This summer even when the temperature dropped a little, I kept windows and doors open and it has been a much better cucumber season for me.

Ursula Prince Exeter In praise of frogs

I love frogs. I made a simple mini-pond in a far corner of the garden in June and I thought will the frogs find it? Two weeks later they found the water and seemed to love it. They are there most days, and I can’t tell you how much pleasure I get from welcoming them into my garden. Simple things are so important.

Amanda Farr sent by email

Dick Pardew Swanage I don’t think I’ll tell my husband this!

I think the RHS is a strange organisation. It mostly is a wonderful society looking after our horticultural well being and history. Then I read the RHS now wants us to consider slugs and snails as no longer pests but a vital part of our ecological system for their important role in our gardens, The RHS say they have a bad reputation but are in fact nature’s recyclers clearing dead matter from the garden and now is the time for us to gracefully accept and even actively encourage more of them in our garden. Tell that to my husband who has had most of his vegetables decimated by the worst outbreak in years this summer. The air would turn blue.

Pauline Davies Somerton COMMON SENSE ON WATER CONSERVATION

Hedges are a wonderful home to birds

This spring and summer I have been left in no doubt about how important our hedges are. We recently planted a laurel hedge which has grown fast and strong. There was debate whether a hedge was a better solution than a fence. The hedge now offers cover, shelter and protection for so many birds and it is a delight to see them flying in and out. I guess it always keeps them cool in the summer. It proves to me beyond all doubt what a better solution a hedge is to a fence in our gardens.

So much is written about how much water we waste as gardeners. I think I have always been careful about water as a resource seems to me as I see other gardeners at work there are a simple couple of things which would help enormously. First avoid watering in the hottest part of the day. Watering in the morning provides plants with water to use throughout the day as less is lost to evaporation How many times have I seen people watering in the midday sun. Secondly target watering with a long neck spout. Watering plants isn’t about dousing the whole plant -it’s about getting the water to the roots with some degree of accuracy. Common sense, isn’t it?

Harry Wilson Southampton

Rosailne Howe sent by email 12

Country Gardener

MY POT PLANT SHED

I set up a plant pot shed at our local allotment three years ago. I did it to encourage re-use and it came after a period of frustration of trying to get local garden centres and nurseries to accept them and use them again. No-one was interested so I thought I would take things into my own hands. People on the allotment drop off pots and the arrival of the shed brings people in from outside the allotment. I sort them out by shape and size. Anyone is welcome to come and take as many as they want and I have a steady and regular trade in them throughout the spring and summer but especially the summer. I get more than just plastic pots and plenty of clay and even decorated china pots. The scheme is easy to run and I guess takes about an hour a week. All you need is a shed to store and display them if anyone else is tempted to try in their area.

Erica Swinburn Barnstaple

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CHRISTMAS SPECIAL

Planning for Christmas

- GIFTS TO BUY AND PLACES TO GO The approach of Christmas as we all know can be a bit stressful. Every year the challenge of buying Christmas gifts for example doesn’t get any easier. If you are looking for a gift for a garden lover however there are some wonderful ideas and opportunities around . Sometimes it just needs a bit of creative thinking choosing something which has great practical value for the gardener as well as being thoughtful. We’ve some ideas which fit into that theme. The build up to Christmas also offers seasonal opportunities to get out and about, National Trust properties throughout the south and south west have a wonderful array of Christmas themed events as properties stage special events and get fully decked out for the festive season. Details at www.nationaltrust.org.uk. The other themed events to look forward take place at wide range of gardens which now invest in wonderful illuminated trials lighting up paths throughout the gardens. It is evidence that there’s still the opportunity in the depth of winter to enjoy being out of doors.

SUSTAINABLE GIFTS FOR THE GARDEN LOVER

A PERFECT GIFT FOR DORSET LOVERS

Looking for the perfect gift for the eco-conscious grower? CoirProducts. co.uk offers a unique range of gifts and bundles that are packed with sustainable goodness. Natural, biodegradable, and peat-free, CoirProducts.co.uk gifts are suitable for both the seasoned grower as well as those just starting out their gardening journey. For those looking to sow, the Let’s Sow With CoirProducts bundle contains fully biodegradable CoirCoins that are unique in the market, and are known for their high germination rates. Gift packs also include a selection of biodegradable coir pots that allow plants to grow without transplanting shock, while growers can also opt for peat-free growing with the range of coir potting mix blocks, bricks, and discs. With coir providing excellent moisture, plants can grow stronger and healthier roots.

Downstream Dorset, River Tales and Local History is a colourful, easy-to-read journey of exploration and discovery along the many rivers and streams flowing through the beautiful county of Dorset. Starting at the source of each Dorset river, the author follows the waterway to its mouth, showing the derivation of place names along its course and revealing fascinating snippets about people and events both past and present. Mary van Coller, together with her husband Ryan, have walked the hills and travelled the byways searching for springs and mouths or confluences of rivers. They have verified facts and stories and taken many colour photographs that are beautiful and evocative. It is the author’s intention that Downstream Dorset will inspire readers to explore Dorset, chat with people who live locally and enjoy the beauty of nature. There are blank pages at the back of the book to record notes and memories of your own discoveries. An ideal gift for all Dorset lovers! Twenty per-cent of royalties will be donated to the vital work of the Dorset and Somerset Air Ambulance service. A description of their service is included near the front of the book. Spiral Books, ISBN 978-1739582401 The book is £19.95 plus £2.99 for UK postage

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NGS WEBSITE OFFERS INSPIRATION FOR SPRING GARDEN VISITS

As the garden opening season comes to a close, it’s the ideal time to start planning your perfect spring garden, and there’s no better way to get inspiration than visiting the National Garden Scheme website for spring flowering inspiration. It’s packed full of hints and tips, and you can explore their gorgeous virtual tours to spark your creativity. Pre-order their Garden Visitor’s Handbook to arrive on your doorstep, hot of the press, in February. It contains all the information you need to plan your visits to thousands of gardens, opening with the National Garden Scheme next year.

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CHRISTMAS SPECIAL

Seasons Green - stepping into Christmas heaven Christmas is a particularly lovely time to visit Seasons Green Gift Shop and Gallery in Corfe Castle, but if you can’t make it in person, there’s plenty to see online too, like these beautiful, handmade tea-light covers. With a range of locallymade art, crafts and products from independent makers, you’re sure Beautiful hand made tea lights to find that special Christmas gift. Inspired by gardens, countryside and coast, the shop is perfect for lovers of the natural world. If that sounds like you, there’s even more to get excited about as they are looking for staff to join their friendly team. See www.seasonsgreen.co.uk for details.

BOSCREGE, A CORNISH EXPERIENCE TO DREAM OF AWAITS YOU Boscrege Caravan and Touring Park in Cornwall is a peaceful and picturesque park, set at the foot of Tregonning Hill, Godolphin National Trust and amongst tranquil Cornish lanes in an area of outstanding natural beauty. The park, open all year is close to the Cornwall coast and a few minutes’ drive to Praa Sands, one of Britain’s nicest beaches. So, if you are looking to take a luxury holiday (doggie friendly with dog friendly homes and on-site designated fields for the dogs too) in Cornwall in a either a selfcatering caravan, lodges touring or even purchasing your very own holiday home then contact Boscrege Caravan and Touring Park. Boscrege Caravan Park, Boscrege, Ashton, Cornwall TR13 9TG 01736 762231 www.caravanparkcornwall.com

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Sweet peas and their winter needs Gardening folklore suggests the best sweet peas are sown in November and December to give them time to get their roots down while the cold air of winter keeps the top growth sturdy One of the sights of summer are teepees and arches covered with sweet peas in flower during June and July – they fill the garden, house and life with scent and colour. They are the stars of our summer. The range of sweet peas to enjoy is huge, from rich, saturated blues and purples to pastel shades and luscious bi-colours. There are long-flowering ones with whopper stems, as well as compact ones that are good for pots. They all have fantastic fragrance and can be cut and brought in to fill the house with scent. And the importance of getting the cycle of sweet peas in your garden under way in October and November cannot be exaggerated. The sport of autumn sweet pea sowing is one of great contention. Many a good man and woman have raged into the good night, hot headed and feisty with deeply set views and opinions on the horticultural subject. Autumn sowing is a simple affair…certainly there will be some losses over the winter but those chaps that make it through will more than make up for their fallen comrades by producing big juicy plants by late spring.

“The importance of getting the cycle of sweet peas in your garden under way in October and November cannot be exaggerated.”

Sweet peas are tough fellows but not truly hardy. They don’t consider being consistently frozen and then thawed over the winter months as a favourite hobby, and if they have this happen they will often sulk….or even die….both are bad outcomes, but one is generally more serious than the other.

When to plant sweet peas Sow sweet pea seeds between October and April. For best results aim for late October/ November or late February/March as temperatures and light levels are less than ideal in midwinter. Sweet peas can also be sown direct into the ground in April or May. Plant out your sweet pea seedlings and plants during a mild spell between March and May.

Sowing sweet pea seeds Sweet peas have a hard seed coat. To aid germination you may find it helpful to leave them on some damp kitchen paper for 24 hours before sowing. There is a view that they need to be soaked in water but many have never found this to be really necessary, but it is still offered as an option as it is so popular. Sow sweet pea seeds undercover between October and April. Rootrainers or loo rolls are ideal as they provide a deep, narrow root run. If you sow into a short, stumpy pot, it doesn’t give the roots as much chance to grow and branch. To sow the seed, use a peat-free, multi-purpose potting compost and sow two seeds per pot. Dampen the compost, then, with your finger, push each seed in two to three centimetres below the surface of the compost. If sowing in autumn or spring, sweet peas can be germinated in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame. If sowing in mid-winter, germinate them on a windowsill, heated propagator or very gently heated greenhouse. Mice love sweet pea seeds and your whole crop may disappear in one go so keep them somewhere mouse-free or try soaking the seeds in liquid seaweed fertiliser before sowing to make them unpalatable. Check for germination every day and don’t water until you see seedlings start to come through, usually in 10-14 days. Once the seedlings appear, keep them cool at about five°C (40°F). This promotes root growth, rather than stem growth, which is exactly what you want. An unheated greenhouse or cold frame is usually sufficient. When there are three or four pairs of leaves, pinch out the leaders – just squeeze off the growing tip between your finger and thumb. This promotes vigorous side shoot formation, with the energy of the plant directed toward growing out, not up. Check your plants regularly and water them lightly if the surface begins to look dry. About a month from germination, check the bottom of the pot for white roots. If you sowed your sweet peas in spring, they can be planted directly outdoors during a mild spell in March-May. If you sowed them in autumn or winter, you’ll need to pot the plants up in their pairs. Don’t let them get pot-bound in the rootrainers, they will never be quite the same again. A slim, deep, one litre pot is ideal. Use a good compost and water them in. Once the roots have filled that pot, it’s time to plant them outside – do this during a mild spell in March-May.

Growing sweet peas in a pot Sweet peas can be grown in deep container pots with a climbing frame. Make sure you choose a compact or dwarf variety. You can buy a small teepee for a pot, or make one. To make one, push birch or hazel twigs about 120cm (four ft) tall firmly into the compost around the perimeter of the pot – push them about 30cm (oneft) down. Gather the ends and tie them in a bundle at the top using twine or flexi-tie. The sweet peas can then scramble over the twiggy teepee.

Sweet pea Q&A Will sweet peas survive frosts? Sweet peas are a hardy annual, which means they will tolerate cold, even a light frost below if freezing. They are tougher than they look and will take a regular frost down to around -4°C.

Should you soak sweet pea seeds before sowing? In warmer regions where winter weather is mild, sow sweet peas in autumn. Everywhere else, sow in late winter/early spring. Soak your seeds for 24 hours before sowing. This softens the seed coat and speeds the sprouting process by a few days.

Why is deadheading sweet peas so important? Look out for seed pods developing and snip them off regularly. This prevents the plants forming seed, which would stop the plants producing flowers. Professional growers who are going to compete in horticultural shows will tell you to pinch out all the curly stems and tendrils. They take energy from the flowers and attach themselves to flower stems and bend them into curves. It’s a lot of work if you are growing a lot of sweet peas. Try to remove any you see while you are picking flowers, but don’t get bogged down.

What is the secret to growing sweet peas? Plant out your seedlings in a sunny position. Sweet peas like well-drained soil but as they are such hungry plants it’s a good idea to enrich your soil, by incorporating manure or garden compost. As well as providing food for your plant, it will also help the soil hold moisture which, your sweet peas will love.

How do you prepare sweet peas for winter? Leave healthy plants to stand for winter to increase hardiness. Prune the plants back to the ground in late winter or early spring before growth begins. Prune sweet pea plants with diseased foliage back to the ground in the autumn.

Can you collect seeds from seed pods at the end of the season? If you have any seed pods at the end of the season, you can collect the seed and store them in a labelled envelope and allow them to dry for a month or so. Then store in a paper bag in a container in the fridge, ready to plant in winter. The resulting plants may well vary slightly from the parent, especially if you grew a mix of varieties.

Why are my sweet peas dying? Sweet peas are thirsty, hungry plants, so make sure you are watering and feeding them regularly. They need plenty of sunlight and will thrive if you continue to tie them in and allow them to grow up a vertical support.

Why don’t my sweet peas flower ? Sweet peas need plenty of sunlight to flower prolifically, so make sure they are in full-sun. You also need to deadhead regularly – leaving the seed pods prevents new flowers forming.

Why are my sweet pea stems so short? Long stems require the plant’s energy. Tie your sweet peas into their vertical frames so they don’t waste energy holding themselves upright. Water them well so they don’t become stressed in a drought. You can also pinch out all the curly stems and tendrils, allowing the energy to go into growing longer stems and flowers. Towards the end of the growing season the stems tend to become progressively shorter in spite of your best efforts.

Are sweet peas poisonous to pets? Yes, sweet peas are poisonous to pets and cause serious illness and vomiting.

Can sweet peas grow in shade? Sweet peas are sun-loving plants and will thrive in a position that receives plenty of sunshine. They may grow in light or dappled shade, but won’t flower as prolifically.

TOO MUCH GRASS? A very specific trend of reducing the size of our lawns in favour of helping wildlife and saving time and money is reaching the sort of levels which is changing the landscape of our gardens

The great British lawn may never disappear entirely, but there is certainly a trend to reduce the areas of lawn we all have in our gardens. The fact is that lawns are more costly and time-consuming to maintain, have a greater environmental burden, and are not as wildlife-friendly as other landscaping choices. Mowing, watering, fertilising, and other lawn care tasks require time and money. Lawns also have environmental costs. Synthetic chemicals used to fertilize and control pests are a source of pollution, and wildlife habitat is lost when turf grass replaces native vegetation. This year, more of us have started reducing our lawns, either leaving the grass to grow long and form a mini-meadow, or by replacing the turf with low-maintenance gravel or sand beds where you can grow a much wider range of plants. It is a trend which looks certain to continue. The watering dilemma is also one which keeps coming to the fore when the subject of lawns raises its head. The reality is you should never water your lawn. For all its faults, the British lawn is a great survivor and no matter how much heat and drought it endures it will always return to its stable, much loved, green affluence. When converting a lawn, take steps to ensure that it does not return in places where it is not wanted - in the middle of a flower bed, for example. To be completely sure, slice under the entire layer of turf and make sure that all remnants of roots and rhizomes are removed. If converting to another type of planting, you’ll need to loosen the compacted soil that remains where the turf once was and add a generous quantity of compost before replanting to recreate the topsoil that was removed with the grass. If you plan converting a lawn to any type of gardening project like decking or seating areas, it may be necessary to remove additional soil below the level of the turf so the patio or paving can be constructed on firm, compacted subsoil, ensuring that it won’t settle and slump over time.

LESS WORK, MORE BEAUTY Lawns have a lot of aesthetic value, and there will always be large numbers of gardeners who devote time and money to maintaining the perfectly mowed, striped, disease-free spectacle that is the English lawn but it does require lot of effort to keep it anything like pristine. By replacing all or part of a lawn with a more diverse planting, your garden will begin to come alive and begin to feel more like a garden. Functional hardscapes, if tastefully designed, also add an aesthetic dimension to the property and have a major effect on property value.

MORE ROOM FOR VEGETABLES? In times of stress, or when food supply chains feel less than secure and costs for basic food commodities continue to rise, many people are turning to reclaiming lawns for vegetable beds, either the raised bed varieties of cut out plots in their lawns. A slim vegetable plot with room for say leeks, onions, garlic and salads along a foundation or a larger series of beds in the middle of the garden are productive ways to reduce conventional grass, and provide fresh produce for the table.

ANNUAL FLOWER BEDS The corners and edges of the lawn are a great place to reduce its size and replace it with colourful annuals. Focusing on the areas with the highest visibility, till up the grass, form a gently sloped mound of soil enriched with compost and plant a seasonal rotation of your favourite flowers. This option is rewarding in terms of colour and visual interest, but regular maintenance and replanting is needed to succeed longer term. Locations with full sun are the best choice for converting lawn grass to an annual flower bed.

PERENNIAL BORDERS While annual flowers are a great choice for the areas closest to paths and patios where they can be enjoyed up close, planting a perennial flower bed has the advantage of being less work and are a complementary choice for the far sides of the lawn, where the swathes of colour and texture can be enjoyed from a distance. The maintenance required is much less than for annuals - cutting back the flower stalks once or twice a year is usually sufficient. Also, there are many shade-loving perennials that give options for reducing grass in areas without full sun. 18

GROUNDCOVER PLANTS Large scale groundcover plantings are a great alternative for lawns. The wide choice of varieties offer colourful foliage, seasonal flower displays or interesting textures. There are varieties for shady areas, as well, providing options for replacing a lawn that is failing due to lack of sunlight. Groundcovers are a suitable choice when you want to eliminate the lawn entirely, as they tend to have a uniform appearance that is appealing when repeated over a large area. When choosing ground cover plants, choose varieties that suit the soil and aspect of your garden. Weed the area thoroughly before you plant, as it will be difficult to remove weeds once the plants are in. Creeping phlox, bunchberry, lilyturf, honeysuckle and Creeping Jenny provide great colour and variety as options.

WILDFLOWER MEADOW Direct seeding a mixture of native wildflowers is another option for replacing grass. This is especially effective where the semi-wild appearance of a meadow is a good fit with the naturalised landscape. The key is finding the species that are best adapted to the climate and soils where you live. After they are established, little is needed in the way of maintenance other than an annual mowing.

LOW MAINTENANCE ORNAMENTAL GRASSES Conventional lawn species are only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the world of grasses. ‘Bunchgrasses’ which have a taller, clumping habit - and require no mowing - range from six inches to ten feet in height and come in an astonishing range of colour, from bluegrey to purple, pink and shades of orange. Like the groundcover option, these are suitable for repeating over a large area, where they blend into a continuous mass of plush foliage and soft seedstalks that sway in the breeze. A sunny lawn has its positive attributes, but so does a shady courtyard that helps to keep the house cool. Planting trees with an assortment of shrubs, perennials and groundcovers around them, with an eye towards how it will evolve into a full-grown forest, is a forwardthinking approach that will create a one-of-a-kind landscape in the long run. It is a major investment in time and energy to create and requires a great deal of patience before the effort pays off, but the results can be spectacular. Of course, if you already have mature trees with grass struggling to grow underneath, you can simply add layers of understory plantings beneath the canopy.

LANDSCAPE TO ENJOY RELAXING IN YOUR GARDEN Patios, decks and paved areas are another approach to eliminating grass. These construction projects can really add to the value of the home and create a lot more usable outdoor space. Though costly to install, there is little maintenance required compared to plantings.

PATIO CREATIVITY In the garden, convert part of the lawn adjacent to the house to an outdoor entertaining area with flagstones, wooden constructions or old-fashioned bricks. If created with an interesting, artistic shape (as opposed to a simple rectangle), a patio makes a pleasing transition between the home and the outdoor landscape.

DECKING MAKES A COMEBACK An elevated deck fulfills the same function as a patio, but is a better choice where the back door is well above ground level. Wood that is stained or sealed to protect it from the elements is the most conventional choice of materials, but there are also highly attractive synthetic boards made from recycled plastic that are extremely long-lasting and never need to be resealed.

MULCH Perhaps the simplest, most cost-effective method for eliminating grass is to cover it with heavy duty landscape fabric and put down a thick layer of mulch. This creates an instant, low maintenance landscape that can later be planted with something other than grass or converted to hardscape. If any weeds appear, be sure to pull them right away before they become established. As a biodegradable substance, mulch slowly disappears and must be topped off every couple of years.

Country Gardener

TIPS FOR REDUCING LAWN SIZE Make a garden plan

Reducing the lawn size may seem like a large task, but the changes can be made gradually over several seasons. By drawing up a specific plan, changes can be made by priority and as time and resources allow.

Choose least functional lawn areas to replace

Look for areas of lawn which are least used, and those which are hardest to mow (e.g. corners of the garden, beneath trees with low branches).

Check what lies beneath

Before digging, check for location of utilities. Call local utility company if not sure.

Grow native

Use native trees, shrubs and ground covers or native grasses and wildflowers that are already well-adapted to the environment in your region. They will require less fertiliser, fewer (or no) pesticides, less watering and less maintenance. Birds and wildlife will benefit from the berries and seeds of native plants.

THE RISE OF THE

red flesh apple Redlove apples are the result of years of breeding work but the varieties on the market now stand out not just for the bright red flesh but also for their exceptional taste You probably haven’t seen them yet, but apple growing devotees have no doubt heard of apples with red flesh. A relative newcomer, red-fleshed apple varieties are still in the process of being finessed but they are becoming ever more popular. This autumn has seen something of a breakthrough. Now there are quite several red-fleshed apple trees available to the home fruit grower. Apples with red flesh are often considered particularly sour and inedible. This is not the case for the apple varieties known as ‘Redlove’. Thanks to years of breeding work, the apples stand out not just for their bright red flesh but also for their delightful taste. Red-fleshed apples are eye-catching, but they are often quite sour. As a result, Swiss apple breeder Markus Kobelt took it upon himself to develop a redfleshed apple variety that not only impresses with its colour but also with its taste. It took almost 20 years of experimenting with different crossings until the first red-fleshed dessert apple, ‘Redlove Circe’, hit the market in 2009. The brand name was created by combining the words ‘red’, which refers to the colour of the apple’s flesh, and ‘love’, which refers to the heart-shaped pattern in the vertical cross-section. More red-fleshed apple varieties followed, such as ‘Redlove Sirena’ and ‘Redlove Odysso’, which only differ slightly from the original variety.

Redlove varieties

Mulch annually

Shrubs and flower beds should be mulched at least once year with a biodegradable mulch such as leaves, fish compost, grass clippings and seaweed.

Consider the lawn shape

By replacing corners with curves, minimising ‘islands’, even a small reduction in lawn size can save a large amount of lawn mowing time.

There are currently eight Redlove apple cultivars on the market, each with unique qualities. The similarities, however, outweigh the differences. All Redlove apples, for example, have red flesh with a heart-shaped pattern in longitudinal cross-sections. The flesh’s red colour is due to the higher anthocyanin content compared to other apple varieties. The Royal Horticultural Society describes the fruit as ‘red-fleshed apples’ that are rich in anthocyanins (water-soluble vacuolar pigments). Anthocyanins are renowned for their anti-viral and anti-inflammatory qualities, meaning this apple is great for fighting diseases. The anthocyanins are not only responsible for the striking colour, but they also act as antioxidants. As a result, the flesh of Redlove apples does not turn brown when exposed to air, and they are also particularly healthy. The pink to dark red apple blossoms are another distinguishing feature of the Redlove cultivars. To top it off, all currently available Redlove varieties are resistant to apple scab. The actual flesh colour of these apples ranges from bright pink ‘Pink Pearl’ to brilliant red ‘Clifford’ to pink tinged ‘Taunton Cross’ and even orange ‘Apricot Apple’. These red-fleshed varieties also have different coloured blooms rather than the white of other apple trees. Depending upon the cultivar, you may have light pink to crimson pink blossoms on your red-fleshed apple tree. Some varieties are sweet while others are on the tarter side, as with other apples. The Royal Horticultural Society has forecast these apples’ will be a key gardening fruit trend for the next 12 months. Because of their parentage they are very hardy, but, of course, all apples are hardy in Britain. They are usually second only to roses in questions asked of the RHS members’ gardening advice service. The RHS advice is to talk to garden centres or local nurseries as there should be a route now to making these trees available.

TREE PLANTING

TREE PLANTING - the big three decisions It’s the tree planting season but the next few weeks are about what to plant, where to plant and then most important of all how to look after it. The next few weeks represent a unique time for gardening -it’s the few weeks when you should be planting trees. Trees should be planted when they’re dormant and so less likely to get damaged. The tree planting season runs between November and March, but it’s the next few weeks when normally soil and weather conditions are perfect for getting your tree in the ground. There are three key issues: what to plant, where to plant and how to look after your new tree. So first what to plant. This will of course depend on the size of your Consider the ultimate size garden, your hopes for the new tree. Trees grow at the tree will grow to different rates depending on many factors, including species, soil conditions, climate and maintenance. There are however some guidelines to help. • To attract wildlife: native trees with nuts and berries such as rowan, hazel and beech provide food throughout the year. • To provide shelter for livestock: native species provide a good source of shade in summer and shelter from the elements over winter. • To prevent soil erosion: trees can hold soils firm and improve stability to protect against wind and water erosion. • For timber production: species such as oak, beech and walnut. • To reduce flooding: trees suitable for riparian planting or in a damp field corner include alder and willow. • For a source of wood fuel: cherry, hornbeam, birch and rowan all burn well.

WHERE TO PLANT It’s essential to plan. Consider the ultimate size that the tree will grow to. Will it still fit the space you have in mind? Think about where you’re planting in relation to your house, your neighbours, and any other buildings. Some roots and branches may spread beyond the boundaries of your property and trees can cause structural damage. A tree may be small when you plant it but think about how big it will grow over the years. Trees can cause structural damage so it’s vital to consider anything the roots might disturb or where limbs could fall. The canopy may eventually spread beyond the boundaries of your property, and roots could stretch even further, so be aware of building foundations and underground services like water pipes and broadband cables.

HOW TO LOOK AFTER IT When you have your tree in the ground – that’s when the real work starts. Weeding is the most important step in giving your trees the right start. Keeping a one metre diameter around the tree clear of weeds and grass for the first two to three years will reduce competition for moisture and nutrients. You can suppress weeds with mulch, such as bark chips or straw bales. Apply it to a depth of around 10 cm to prevent it being blown away or dispersed and top it up annually. You can also buy mulch mats and peg them into the ground to keep them in place. When mulching or weeding isn’t appropriate, chemical-based products may have to be used to suppress weeds. Spray around the base of each tree to create a weed-free ring, approximately 1m in diameter. Your trees will adapt to natural conditions so shouldn’t need watering, especially as it encourages roots to grow up towards the soil surface rather than down towards groundwater. If there is a particularly long dry spell and you feel watering is necessary, saturate the ground to ensure water soaks deep into the soil. Strong winds can blow trees over so make sure your guards, canes or stakes are upright and pushed firmly into the soil. Pull up any grass growing inside Take time over the the guard and carefully replace the guard. planting regime

WALCOT ORGANIC NURSERY HAS ALL THE ANSWERS FOR YOUR NEW TREE PLANNING Walcot Organic Nursery, located in the Vale of Evesham, are looking forward to supplying customers with all sorts of fruit trees over the winter months. Grown in the soil they are available bare rooted when dormant from late November until late March – natures time for tree planting. Grown organically you will not be able to find the fruit from many of the varieties in the shops. It is only by growing these fruits that you can enjoy them. Choose from a wide selection of apples, pears, quinces, plums, damsons and more. Orders may be made via the website www.walcotnursery.co.uk, over the phone 01905 841587 or in person. The website provides much advice on choosing and growing fruit trees. A paper catalogue is also available. P O h r o on de r e r O , b n P y lin o e st

ERHILL HERB T S EA & WILLOW S Growers of a wide selection

Really Useful Plants have willow growing pedigree Really Useful Plants at Easterhill Nursery in Starcross, Devon, specialises in growing useful plants – Herb plants for wellbeing and for the kitchen; Pollen rich perennials, and native wildflowers for creating wildlife and herb gardens; Perennial vegetables and Forest Garden plants to promote good soil health and encourage balance with nature in gardens. They are specialist willow growers, cultivating over 30 varieties of useful willow for ornamental and wildlife value, living structures, basketry and craft. Colourful, ornamental willows make great statement shrubs for year-round interest in gardens. Slender varieties are good for basketry and are used in workshops that take place at the nursery. More robust varieties are excellent for creating willow structures and living fences with commissions and advice offered. For plants and advice or willow sales, commissions & workshops reallyusefulplants@outlook.com www.reallyusefulplants.co.uk 20

of fruit trees for all situations

✔ Willow Growers ✔ Wildlife Friendly Plants ✔ Herbs & Edibles

Detailed catalogue available

01905 841587

Starcross Devon

Walcot Lane, Drakes Broughton, Pershore, Worcs WR10 2AL

www.reallyusefulplants.co.uk

www.walcotnursery.co.uk

Country Gardener

CUTTINGS

Gardeners cuttings

Extra

A LOOK AT NEWS, EVENTS AND HAPPENINGS

IT’S GOLD FOR THE WIMBORNE COMMUNITY GARDEN South and South East in Bloom has judged Wimborne Community Garden to be the best community garden in the region and also awarded it a Level Five Outstanding Certificate for all it has done to enhance its local area. The Wimborne Community Garden were awarded their gold medal and winning title at the award ceremony held recently at the much-acclaimed RHS Wisley. It was a huge competition attracting over 1600 entries for various categories. When commenting on Wimborne’s garden the judges said “The whole project deserves to be known beyond Wimborne, so that other groups can benefit from your experiences and expertise.” Started on 7th May this year, the enthusiastic and hardworking band of growing volunteers have transformed part of Beaucroft College’s playing field into a flourishing vegetable and flower garden.

The focus of the garden, supported by the local charity Faithworks, is to provide food for the local Food Bank, Wimborne Community Kitchen and the Beaucroft café run by its students all of whom experience learning difficulties. Jane, who is the voluntary manager of the garden said “We were absolutely thrilled. The report praised us highly and urged us to ‘keep going’. With the continued support and encouragement from the community, that is exactly what we intend to do. Watch this space!” Sandi Cook and Jane Benson are pictured with Mark Porter a Member of Council of the RHS and Trustee of the National Garden Scheme.

country gardener

CROSSWORD WIN £100 IN RHS GIFT TOKENS

Our popular gardening themed crossword is compiled by Saranda which over the past year has become enormously popular with readers. The winning entry to be drawn by us will receive £100 of RHS gift tokens. Completed entries should be sent to Mount House, Halse, Taunton, Somerset TA4 3AD. Closing date is 25th November. The winner of our October issue crossword was Peta Fonley from Axminster. 1

Enjoy your garden throughout the year, whatever the weather with a stylish glass room from Eden and now available with a finance deal – ‘Buy Now, Pay Later’. Plus you can save up to 25 percent off* in an Autumn Sale. Constructed from the highest quality materials and bespoke manufactured, an Eden Glass Room is a stunning addition to any home. With accessories such as intelligent heating and lighting you can spend more time ‘outdoors’ in comfort. Every Eden Glass Room is powder coated with a hard-wearing weather-proof finish, available in a choice of 56 colours. Visit edenverandas.co.uk or call 0800 107 2727 and use code CG281023. *Terms & Conditions apply, see https://www.edenverandas.co.uk/glass-verandas for details.

Strong and long-lasting rustic picket panels Quality fencing is very much in demand from gardeners and Hartwell & Co, the long established family business specialising in outdoor timber provides some of the best products on the market. Their rustic picket panels are made from peeled and treated half round timbers, making them very strong and long-lasting. These ready assembled panels are quick and easy to install. Ideal for creating boundaries in a garden, without blocking any views and taking away light. Available in three designs – traditional picket, diagonal and staggered height with matching gates. Get the dimensions and pricing online www.hartwellfencing.co.uk or contact the timber yard on 01386 840373, email info@hartwellfencing.co.uk to place an order. Hartwell Fencing, Hartwell Nurseries, Ford Rd, Stone, Aylesbury HP17 8RZ

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How to enjoy your garden throughout the year

CROSSWORD

ACROSS 1. Like an area smaller than a city but bigger than a village (6) 4. Sweet flag’s genus (6) 8. Medicinal nut sometimes called gray nicker (6) 13. Levisticum genus whose leaves are used as a herb (6) 14. Are they responsible for floral presentations on platforms? (7,7) 16. A favourite plant of Culpeper, Alchemilla arvensis (7-5) 17. 30th President of the United States (8) 18. These plants are also called sea pinks (7) 19. Having arrow-shaped leaves (11) 22. Anagallis tenella, a lover of damp habitats (3,9) 23. A small melon with green flesh and orange skin (4) 27. Genus of plants known as the blood lily (10) 29. Centaurea cyanus or cornflower (10) 31. A coop or hutch for small animals (4) 32. Pottery produced in Staffordshire by a famous company (8,4) 37. Produced or occurring outside the flower (11) 38. Growing most luxuriantly (7) 40. Common name of Acacia harpophylla (8) 41. Disastrous crop failure in Ireland (1845-42) (6,6) 43. The Flanders poppy is associated with this special occasion (11,3) 44. In Greek music, the raising or sharping of a tone (6) 45. Common name of Achillea millefolium (6) 46. Greek island in the Aegean Sea (6) 47. A pasture grass of South America (6) DOWN 1. Tall palm trees found in India and Sri Lanka (8) 2. People who cannot make decisions (8) 3. Having strap-shaped flowers (12) 5. Plant of the mint family favoured by felines (6) 6. Any of several plants that cause fungal disease in sheep (10) 7. Very sour fruit of the blackthorn (4)

9. Acid found in lichens (8) 10. Battleships? (12) 11. Person who sells fruit and veg from a handcart in the street (12) 12. Common name of the curry plant in the genus Helichrysum (10) 15. Herb in the mint family mentioned in Psalm 51 (6) 20. A swelling often on the back of the hand (8) 21. Burn slowly without flame (8) 24. Fruit of the Gaultheria genus sometimes called boxberry (12) 25. A useful tool for keeping the garden tidy (5,7) 26. He’s involved in a form of traditional English choreography (6,6) 28. Fruit of Luffa aegyptiaca or the plant itself (5,5) 30. Deep sea fish which can eat larger fish (10) 33. Tree of the genus Salix (6) 34. Historical novel by Gustave Flaubert (8) 35. Of a leaf or bean, resembling a kidney shape (8) 36. Remote British Overseas Territory in the South Atlantic (2,6) 39. Tropical fruit also called mountain papaya (6) 42. West Indian shrub that is a source of indigo (4) Answers from previous issue, October 2023: S W I A B R I D

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JOBS FOR THE MONTH

GARDENING JOBS

By the time we start listing November gardening jobs, it is really autumn and there are lots of things to keep an eye on. If the weather has stayed mild, seasonal pests and diseases will be in their element and need keeping in check. And, if the weather has been harsh, either wet and windy or with early frosts then you will need to think of ways to protect your plants.

for November 1

Watch out for pests and diseases

Poor ventilation around plants helps fungal diseases such as botrytis mould and powdery mildew to gain a foothold, as they love warm, calm conditions. They also thrive in poorly-ventilated greenhouses where plants are being sheltered through the winter. You can help prevent them by making sure outdoor plants aren’t too crowded around their root area and are planted where there is a good through-flow of wind. If you haven’t yet lifted and composted your summer annuals, now is the time to do it as they can block ventilation and harbour pests. In greenhouses, make sure plants aren’t touching each other. On mild days, open the door and windows to let the draught in.

At this point in the gardening calendar, it’s also a good idea to stand back and look at your garden and see whether you can improve its overall appearance. This may include relocating trees and shrubs that aren’t thriving in their current spot. Only do this when the soil is workable and not waterlogged, though, otherwise you risk damaging its structure and reducing the likelihood that the moved plants will thrive.

Hellebores will need your attention

You can leave hellebores to their own devices for most of the time, though in autumn, you will need to carry out some maintenance to get them ready for flowering in the New Year. A key task is to remove old foliage to make room for new leaves emerging from the crown. It tidies up the plant and may also reduce the risk of hellebore leaf spot, a fungal problem affecting leaves and stems with round, brown spots. Dispose of affected leaves – never on the compost heap – and if the problem persists, try treatment with a fungicide spray, sticking to the manufacturer’s instructions for use. Another problem is hellebore black death, a fungal disease that distorts growth and causes black streaks and rings on stems and foliage. Once you have cut back the foliage, mulch around the crown to feed and insulate it. Keep compost or manure off the crown itself as it can cause rotting when it gets wet.

Pruning is a vital task this month

Pruning shrubs and trees may seem daunting but it is pretty straightforward if you remember a few key tips. Over-enthusiastic pruning is hard to rectify and can ruin the shape of the plant. Also, remember the ‘three Ds’ and start by removing dead, diseased and damaged growth. Then cut away branches that are rubbing against others causing damage to the bark, and any that are growing inwards, congesting the centre of the tree. The aim is to create a goblet shape, with an attractive open centre that allows for good ventilation and keeps the tree healthy. Trees to leave alone in autumn and winter include evergreens that can be damaged by cold; plums, cherries, apricots, and almonds that can fall foul of silver leaf disease (prune these in midsummer), and early-flowering shrubs such as philadelphus and forsythia, as you will remove the blossom-bearing stems.

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Plant bare root trees

If the soil isn’t too wet, this is the season for planting bare root trees. These types of plants are one or twoyear-old ‘whips’ that look like long twigs but will soon grow and become robust, quicklymaturing trees. They are sold, as their name suggests, with bare roots, i.e. not in containers, and need planting as soon as possible otherwise their roots dry out. It is an economical way of buying stock, especially if you need to purchase in bulk for planting a hedge and the varieties can include native trees such as hazel,

beech and ash, rose bushes, fruit trees and bushes and even biennials including wallflowers. Most should all be widely available between now and late winter and you should be able to buy them from your local plant nurseries or garden centres. If you can’t plant immediately because of soil conditions or because you haven’t prepared the ground, ‘heel in’ (temporarily plant) the whips somewhere sheltered. They can stay in this temporary planting site right through winter, though do aim to get them in their final spot before they come into leaf next spring.

Make catching rainwater a November priority November can be one of the wettest times of the year, so it makes sense to optimise the sky’s damp bounty by harvesting it for the garden. Water butts are an essential part of gardening life. Collected rainwater is better for plants and your garden pond than tap water. Water butts often work better with a stand, so the tap is raised and your watering can fit underneath.

Root cuttings are an easy way to get free plants

There are cuttings for every season and autumn is when root cuttings come into their own. Herbaceous perennials, including oriental poppies, Japanese anemones, phlox and verbascum, can be propagated in this manner and you can create large numbers of new, free plants from each parent. Root cuttings are one of the easiest ways of propagation and have the added benefit of creating new plants without pests or diseases. Lift the parent plant from the ground, keeping as much soil around the rootball as you can. Choose healthy pencil-thick roots and remove thin ends and fibrous lateral roots. Cut each length into three inch lengths with a horizontal cut at the top end and an angled cut at the lower end, which creates a larger surface for root development. Insert into pots of gritty compost and place them in a cold frame or greenhouse for winter. Remove no more than a third of each plant’s root system otherwise you run the risk of damaging future growth or even killing it. Country Gardener

7 Protect tender plants from frost Protect tender plants such as phormiums, tree ferns and cordylines in case frost should strike. It may be easiest to move large containers into a sheltered corner and cover them altogether with horticultural fleece rather than covering each plant individually.

READER’S STORY

Goodbye to weeds

You might have spent hours weeding over spring and summer, but once beds and borders have been cleared you’ll find plenty you missed. Shallow rooted annuals are easily dispatched by skimming a hoe across the surface. Tough rooted perennials, especially those with a long tap root, will need a bit more wellie. Loosen the soil around them with a garden fork and prise out carefully, making sure you remove every bit of root.

Turn your compost heaps If you are planning to use your own compost in winter soil preparation, give the heap a once over to get rid of any weeds. If, you also use the heap to grow gourds and pumpkins , get rid of any foliage and stems still hanging around. Turn heaps of compost made since late summer to speed breakdown and improve quality. It’s hard work but makes a worthwhile difference as it speeds up decomposition. It only needs to be done once and is a way of introducing oxygen to the heap. This feeds the bacteria, which promotes further decomposition. It’s also a good opportunity to break up any lumps you find and mix the ingredients. The easiest way to do it is to dig out the whole heap with a fork and move it into an empty neighbouring bin.

Sow some green manure

If you want to improve the texture and soil conditions for future vegetable crops then green manure can be grown over winter and then cut down and dug in during spring. They also keep weeds at bay over the winter. There are a wide variety now on the market and it’s not too late to still sow in November as long as the weather conditions are still favourable.

Plant garlic

This remains an important job. Garlic likes a period of cold so November is a good time to plant it. Put individual cloves 15cm apart in rows that are 30cm apart. Rust has been a problem in recent years so plant in a cold greenhouse or under a cloche to help avoid it.

Do what you can for wildlife

One of the key November gardening jobs is to do your bit for wild birds and animals, even if all you can do is put out fresh food and water for them every day and make sure your bird feeders and other feeding stations are kept clean, with leftover food removed. If you have the space for more wildlife garden ideas, leave a quiet area of your plot to grow slightly wild with a pile of logs and maybe some straw, to provide a hideaway for animals and insects as they slow down or look for somewhere to shelter from the elements. Hedgehogs will be feeding up before periods of hibernation, so leave out fresh water or meaty pet food. Instead of cutting back all your perennial stems, leave some standing to provide seeds for hungry birds and hollow stems for hibernating invertebrates.

Sharpen those secateurs

It’s a busy time of year for tidying up, so make the job easier by sharpening your secateurs. Begin by cleaning off any hardened sap with wire wool. Then, use a fine-grade sharpening stone (alternatively, use a sharpening device), hold the secateurs firmly in your hand and sharpen both edges of the cutting blade on anvil secateurs, and only the outer edges of the blades on bypass secateurs.

14 Prune apple and pear trees Remove dead or weak growth and any crossing branches. Shorten this year’s growth on main branches by a third, to a bud facing the direction you want it to grow in. Cut back sideshoots to five or six buds.

WHY I WANT TO BAN BONFIRES Dorset gardener Jack Horwood has a pet autumn hate environmentally damaging and unpleasant bonfires which he openly hates and can find no justification for. I think the last thing I am is an old gardening ‘stick-in-the-mud’. My children and grandchildren don’t think I am and that’s a good sign. Yet what I am writing to you about has all the signs of a grumpy old gardener. I want to ban bonfires. They are anti-social, often toxic, dangerous, they damage the environment and are the cause of many neighbour disputes due to the ignorance and general thoughtlessness of the perpetrator. Garden waste should be chipped for mulch or composted. Last year I tried to organise a petition to get a local ban on bonfires. It failed miserably and I got 12 signatures and with it a lot of bad feeling from a few people who wanted to defend bonfires. My own experience from neighbourhood bonfires hasn’t been good over the years, not necessarily where we live now but certainly at our previous home when next door seemed to have autumn bonfires every few days. My neighbour now is a nice enough chap but doesn’t think when it comes to his bonfires and three times already this year I’ve had to wander over and yell at him as vast swathers of smoke covered our garden and patio. I fear for the rest of the winter. Bonfires ruin the enjoyment of people’s gardens and the smoke seeps into the house. Why should anyone have to put up with this on a regular basis? Most people believe that there are specific by-laws to prohibit bonfires in gardens and allotments and for people having BBQs, but there aren’t. An outright ban would be difficult to enforce; the occasional bonfire may not cause a problem. Regular bonfires can be dealt with under the nuisance legislation covered in the Environmental Protection Act 1990. If your neighbours are lighting bonfires which are causing you nuisance, in the first instance, approach neighbours and tell them how the bonfire is affecting you. Often, I suppose people are unaware of the way smoke is blowing and consequently, the effect it is having on you. There are other environmentally friendly ways to dispose of your garden refuse without having to burn it; you can compost it, or take it to a household recycling centre. If you have considered the alternatives and a bonfire is still the best practical option for disposing of your garden waste, my plea is that you think about it and follow some rules. Warn your neighbours - lighting a bonfire can cause nuisance to your neighbours especially if it is a nice sunny day with washing out and windows open. • only burn dry material - this is likely to cause less smoke • never burn household rubbish, rubber tyres or anything containing plastic or paint - these can cause harmful emissions • never use old engine oil, meths or petrol to light or encourage the fire • avoid lighting a fire in poor weather conditions - smoke hangs in the air on damp days and in the evenings. If it is windy smoke may be blown into neighbouring gardens and across roads • avoid burning at weekends and on Bank Holidays when people want to enjoy their gardens • never leave a fire unattended or leave it to smoulder Bonfires are only illegal if they cause a nuisance to others and the person responsible fails to comply with the requirements of any abatement notice served by the council. It is commonly thought that there are byelaws banning bonfires or restricting the days or times when they are allowed - there aren’t. We are not cavemen who need to create fire,we have hopefully evolved into considerate people who care about the environment. A blanket ban cannot be too difficult - if smoke is seen on the horizon, fines are handed out. All this talk and expense on climate change and our carbon footprint -why do bonfires not count? 23

Herb growing adventures ITS MAYBE TIME TO ADD MORE UNUSUAL IF NOT RARE HERBS TO YOUR COLLECTION - HERBS WHICH ALLOW YOU TO ADD EVEN MORE SPICE TO YOUR GARDEN

Many of us grow herbs such as rosemary, chives and parsley for their ornamental as well as culinary value. Indispensable as these plants are there are other, less common herbs that are well worth growing, too – perfect for bringing exciting and unexpected flavours to dishes and drinks. If you take a look at most herb gardens where more space is given over to growing herbs, you’ll notice the usual suspects -rosemary, oregano, thyme, parsley, sage, basil, and mint. These plants are popular as culinary herbs, and there is certainly need for them in many of your ‘usual’ recipes. However,adding rare herbs to your herb garden can introduce you to new flavours and add a little spice to your garden. Growing herbs you are familiar with or will use in the kitchen is a great way to start an herb garden, but those constraints do not limit you. Adding rare or unusual herbs to your collection can bring variety and aesthetic value to your assortment while opening a world of new culinary flavours and natural remedies. So, let’s have a look as some of the herbs which you may well have heard of or seen but haven’t taken the chance of growing.

ANGELICA A majestic and impressive perennial with handsome foliage, angelica also produces rounded umbels up to 25cm across, of small green flowers in early summer. Ideally suited to a reliably moist soil in partial to full shade, it has a striking architectural presence and looks wonderful at the back of the border. Often short-lived, it will usually die back after flowering, but will self-seed freely if the conditions are favourable. Used in soups and savouries it is also a well-known addition to botanical gins. Being short-lived, this plant usually dies after flowering, but if flowering is prevented, or if the spent flowers are removed before they set seed, then it will often go on to flower again for a second year.

FEVERFEW (Tanacetum parthenium) A perennial plant belonging to the daisy family and closely resembling chamomile, feverfew is used throughout the world as a traditional medicinal herb to treat and prevent migraines. Small daisy like flowers are white with bright yellow centres, the feathery leaves are said to give off a citrus smell, helping to repel bees. Feverfew likes well drained potting soils but doesn’t tolerate dry conditions. Keep an eye on it if allowed to go to seed as it re-seeds liberally and can become invasive.

GOOD KING HENRY (Amaranthaceae) Good King Henry, also known as English mercury, wild spinach, goosefoot or poorman’s asparagus, is part of the amaranth family (Amaranthaceae). It is found both cultivated and in the wild. Good King Henry is an emollient and a laxative. A poultice of the leaves can be used to cleanse and heal chronic sores, boils and abscesses. The seed is a gentle laxative that is suitable for children. The leaves are a good source of iron.

LOVAGE (Levisticum officinale) If you are looking for a herb in your garden with a multitude of uses then lovage is the answer. With a bright and fresh celery flavour, leaves can be added to salads or sued in place of parsley in many recipes. The lovage seeds which we surprisingly call celery seeds are used to flavour soups and dips. Lovage loves full sun and well drained soil. Keep the potting mix moist and avoid getting water on the leaves when watering plants.

MARSH-MALLOW (Althaea officinalis) Marshmallow plants are normally sold as herbal medicines as the Greek work ‘althos’ means healing. The plants grow in tall, elegant spikes with flowers in pale pinks or white. Roots of the plant contain mucilage, a gel like substance used initially by the French to create a confection that has morphed into what we now call marshmallow. 24

LEMONGRASS Lemongrass is an ingredient used in a range of Asian recipes and is a wonderful addition to home growing for anyone who enjoys Thai or other East Asian cuisines. Lemongrass will need to be grown under cover and, likely, kept indoors in a humid, warm space over the winter months, but other than its requirement for heat, this is a plant that is relatively easy for the UK gardener to grow.

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WOOD SAGE (Teucrium scorodonia) Teucrium scorodonia, commonly known as wood sage or woodland germander, is a herbaceous perennial native to Europe and Tunisia, including the UK. It has rough, crinkled leaves similar to those of sage, and from midsummer to early autumn it produces pale yellow flowers that are highly attractive to pollinating insects. Despite the name, Teucrium scorodonia isn’t especially tolerant of shade, and is best grown in full sun or dappled shade. As it grows, it’ll gradually spread to form a large colony of around a metre across. For best results, grow in full sun or dappled shade, in light, well-drained, neutral to acidic soil. It will however tolerate heavier and slightly alkaline soils.

GARLIC CHIVES (Allium tuberosum) The flat leaves of garlic chives are suitable for use in the same way as ordinary chives, and have a sweet garlic flavour. Additionally, the white flowers can flavour and decorate a salad. These hardy plants reach a height of 40cm. Divide clumps in autumn if they become congested.

TREE ONION (Allium cepa) Tree onions look bizarre, having a cluster of ‘bulblets’ at the top of their stems, which can grow as tall as 1.5m. Use the bulblets for cooking in the same way as ordinary culinary onions, and use the young plants as spring onions. Tree onions are best grown in full sun.

SCYTHING IS back in fashion Scything is back in fashion and this ancient tool has long been gaining popularity with gardeners. In these days of re wilding and long grass being allowed to grow throughout the summer months it has become an even more important skill

CURRY PLANT (Helichrysum italicum) Curry Plant is an evergreen perennial with aromatic bright silver grey foliage. Yellow flowers in the summer. The foliage has a very strong smell of curry, even untouched. Prune regularly in order to keep a neat bush shape. Its spicy curry scent will be much more pronounced if planted in a warm, sheltered spot. The silver foliage also contrasts well with other plants so looks great in borders. However, Helichrysum curry, commonly known as the curry plant, shouldn’t be confused with curry leaf, which is an entirely different plant.

SWEET CICELY The flavour of sweet cicely lends itself to making of aperitifs and digestifs using the leaves or seeds for promoting appetite and supporting the whole digestion. It has also been used to help relieve coughs. The soft textured raw leaves avail themselves to use in vegetable and fruit salads or dips. They can also be cooked into soups, stews, omelettes. The natural sweetness of the leaves has been used to reduce sugar in recipes, especially when stewing tart fruits. In terms of potential drawbacks, it’s worth noting that the herb is considered invasive in some areas.

AZTEC SWEET HERB (Lippia dulcis) This perennial is covered in white, edible flowers in summer. Best grown in rich, moist soils, it forms a sprawling ground cover when positioned in a protected, partially shaded or sunny position. Lippia dulcis tastes of sweet camphor oil, and can be used as a natural sweetener, or to spice up a fruit salad.

Picture the scene. The scythe in the hands of an expert makes barely a whisper as it slices effortlessly through a strand of grass and wildflowers in a wide arc. The tool might look primitive but, it has yet to be bettered, whether you are cutting small garden meadows or the paths in your allotment. The modern alternative is a strimmer, which guzzles fossil fuel, makes a racket and can injure wildlife. It doesn’t even do a particularly good job. Using a scythe you can cut a meadow faster and neater with my scythe than anyone with a strimmer. Even so, by the Second World War many in the UK had largely abandoned this traditional low-cost, low-impact tool in favour of motorised lawn mowers and combine harvesters. Only the Grim Reaper and a niche group of environmental enthusiasts kept hold of their scythes. And then Poldark hit our screens. The scene in which actor Aidan Turner stripped off his shirt for a spot of sweaty mowing was voted the best TV moment the year by Radio Times readers and suddenly everyone was interested again. Scythes are not like lawn mowers – it is easier to mow damp grass rather then dry. So the time of day you mow can have a big influence on your mowing. Early in the morning whilst the dew is still on the grass is ideal, else on a drizzly damp day or in the evening as the dew falls. It’s not entirely clear why it’s easier to scythe damp grass. Factors might include a lubricating effect of the moisture on the blade as it slices through the grass and a difference in the sap pressure, and therefore the hardness of the grasses. When thinking about how to mow your lawn, it is easier to follow the way the grass is lying rather then trying to mow in straight lines. Look carefully at how the grass is lying and mow so that it is leaning away from you and towards the right. Change direction as often as is needed to follow the lie of the grass – you’ll probably end up with lovely sinuous windrows. There are fine grades of blade for cutting grass and fleshy weeds, and more robust ditch blades for clearing rough grass and coarse weeds. Length of blade is another choice. Beginners, especially if working near tree trunks or fences, may find a shorter blade around 50-60cm is easier to manage. Mowers working on a larger scale favour a longer blade, up to 90cm (although the average is 75cm), for obvious reasons, however, this will also be more prone to damage and harder to wield effectively.

FRENCH SORREL (Rumex scutatus) French sorrel or oseille ronde, is less acid in flavour than common sorrel (Rumex acetosa), having a distinct tang of apple and lemon. This hardy perennial prefers a sunny spot, where it will grow to 30cm in height. Use the young leaves in mixed leaf salads and bring the plant indoors for winter use.

WINTER SAVOURY (Satureja montana) Winter savoury is a hardy perennial, that grows into a small, shrubby clump. Small white flowers appear in late summer. After this, trim it up to a tighter shape. The leaves and tips can be used fresh or dried, to add a spicy flavour to herb mixes, stuffings, pulses and pates. Performs best in full sun, in well-drained soil.

The time of day you scythe and how dry the grass is can be very important 25

Return of the dried flowers boom Dried flowers are in the middle of a resurgence in popularity, now seen as a more sustainable way to enjoy grown flowers within your home for many years rather than lasting a few days

by Jenny Lancombe Forget the dusty, dried flower arrangements of the 1970s which always seemed to look messy and monotone. We’ve entered a new era. Dried flowers are back and in a big way. And it doesn’t surprise me at all. For a while now I’ve been hearing the whispers about the beauty of dried flowers, murmurs of the positives over their longevity versus fresh blooms amongst a few earnest voices (such as mine) telling others how they are so much more than the ones you might find in a dusty corner of your aunt’s house. I have always persevered with dried flowers as I really believe that over the next couple of years, they are about to have their moment in the spotlight again. I have always loved dried flowers. As a child I used to dry and press wildflowers and growing up I spent a lot of time on the South of France where flowers for drying are grown as crops and are always available in the markets. I started experimenting with drying my own flowers when I found I had a glut of euphorbia that needed thinning out and I didn’t want to throw it in the compost. Drying flowers - there is nothing I like to watch how flowers change their complicated about it and is mostly appearance as they lose moisture and a question of trial and error become something different to their original selves. There is a hidden beauty to be found in dry or decaying plant material. They also provide a sustainable option for eco-friendly flower arranging and bridge the seasons when there is nothing to pick outside. My main tip for a beginner is that drying flowers is easy- you can start with anything you can get your hands on. There is nothing complicated about it and is mostly a question of trial and error. As a rule of thumb, thin wispy stems of flowers with small, delicate heads such as scabious, cornflowers, astrantia and crocosmia dry well quickly and tend to give great resultskeeping their colour for a long period of time. Single specimens in statement jars or vases, hand-tied bunches, or artistic woven willow hoops are the modern way of using dried flower heads. They’re understated and they come in parchment shades of silver, grey and brown so they slot into modern homes brilliantly well. You can also add touches of floral colour, should you wish. Better still, you can gather material from your own garden, or a hedgerow, and arrange it once it’s become desiccated and dry. It’s very creative and you don’t need any specialist equipment – just a pair of snips and some imagination. 26

Choose a dry day to cut your material. The middle of the day is best, because that’s when the stems and heads are drier. Flowers need to be picked just as they open, before any aging occurs. English lavender, Lavandula angustifolia, for instance, is traditionally cut during the first week of Wimbledon – at the end of June. Roses and peonies need to be picked when the buds begin to swell. The process of drying flowers can be achieved in two ways: you can place your flowers in a tray of silica gel and zap in the microwave, or hang flowers, grasses and seed heads high and let nature do the work. One of the great things about dried flowers is that you can forage or grow your own: ‘There are so many easy to grow flowers which can be dried, such as Xerochrysum bracteatum (strawflowers), Anaphalis (small white flowers known as ‘pearly everlasting’), nigella (love in the mist) and umpteen grasses, so you can have the added satisfaction of a homegrown dried flower arrangement. Roses, delphiniums, hydrangea, pansies and lavender also dry well, alongside thistle-like eryngium, colourful chrysanthemums and dainty gypsophila, aka baby’s breath. Whether used as a floral arrangement or table decoration, keep the flowers dry, dust regularly, and avoid keeping them in direct sunlight to preserve the colour of the flower heads.

HOW LONG DO DRIED FLOWERS LAST? If well cared for, dried flowers can last on average between three to four years. It is best to keep dried flowers out of direct sunlight and avoid humid conditions - depending on their type and your home.

WHY ARE DRIED FLOWERS BACK IN FASHION? Dried Flowers have taken over Instagram feeds and are getting even bigger at wedding, hotel interiors, events, home décor, etc by the minute. Dried and preserved flowers are about to overtake fresh flowers.

WHAT IS THE DRIED FLOWER COLOUR TREND FOR AT THE MOMENT? The desire for bright and bold shades is represented in the floral predictions for next year. Lush purples will be mixed to display bold and unique floral arrangements. The new trend towards vibrant colours and hues dominates the recent requests for pastel and more neutral shades.

WHICH FLOWERS DON’T DRY WELL? Dense fleshy flowers such as peonies and chrysanthemums or roses in full bloom are trickier to dry satisfactorily as the heads are too heavy to be supported by the stems - they become brittle and snap off. Also, flat daisy shaped flowers tend to close when they are suspended upside down and I find these easier for pressing.

CAN YOU DRY FRESH CUT FLOWERS FROM A BOUQUET OR BOUGHT FROM A SHOP? I often remove my favourite blooms from gift bouquets if I want to keep them longer than they would last in a jar. Shop bought flowers need to be at their freshest as they won’t dry properly if they have started to go over.

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Step by step to drying your own flowers

Here’s just some thoughts on my favourite flowers to dry English lavender - Lavandula angustifolia This summer-flowering lavender is often used for low hedges, or planted at the front of borders. The heads are roughly an inch or so long the first week or second of Wimbledon is the ideal time to cut them, while they’re pristine. ‘Munstead’ is mauve-blue, ‘Hidcote’ is a darker purple-blue and ‘Melissa Lilac’ a paler mauve. Hang up the bunches to dry.

Achillea Achillea, or yarrow, is a stiff-stemmed perennial that dries easily. Simply stand the stems in a vase or bucket. Any achillea should dry well and their flat heads provide a contrast among delicate dried seed heads and flowers.

Sea lavender - Limonium platyphyllum The tiny flowers form thunderclouds and they are held on long stems, so they may droop.

1. Choose flowers which have only just bloomed, ideally opening that morning. If using a bouquet of already-cut flowers, remove them from the water just as they are starting to look their best. 2. Remove excess foliage under the flower head and trim the stems. 3. Split the flowers into small bunches of six or seven stems. If you’re drying larger flowers such as roses or hydrangeas, dry them individually. 4. Tie each bunch with an elastic band, twine or string and hang them upside down. You could use a coat hanger or another hook to secure in place. 5. Place in a dry, dark room away from direct sunlight to help preserve the colours. An under-stairs or airing cupboard is ideal. Avoid extremes of temperature as this will encourage petals to drop. 6. Leave the flowers for two to three weeks until they are completely dry. They’re ready when they feel light and brittle to touch. 7. When you’re ready to arrange them, give them a quick spritz of hairspray – this gives protection and a nice shine to the blooms.

Greater sea kale - Crambe cordifolia This giant member of the cabbage family produces stems of tiny white flowers at eye height, like a leggy but equally dainty gypsophila. As they fade green bobbles appear.

Globe artichoke - Cynara cardunculus Tall and statuesque, reaching man-height, this sun lover can be picked as the flowers open, or left to form a seed head. It will dry hung upside down. Give this a sheltered sunny site, but it’s easy to raise from seed should it disappear after a hard winter. It needs space and supports.

Sea holly - Eryngium Perennial sea hollies have blue flowers and blue stems when grown in sunny positions. The heads dry well, picked when they first fully open. You have two bites of cherry with the biennial sea holly, Eryngium giganteum. This architectural, stainless steel eryngium with jagged ruffs set round large, oval thimbles.

Dried flowers are ‘ready’ when they feel light and brittle to touch

AUTUMNAL LAWN CARE There are many tasks to be done at this time of year that carry with them an underlying sense of conclusion or putting your garden to rest. Cutting back shrubs, raking and sweeping fallen leaves, and wrapping your more tender perennials in fleece to protect from frost, are all jobs we do to prepare our gardens for the oncoming winter. Your lawn can also do with some care and attention at this time of year and while the tasks below can be carried out in either autumn or spring, many people find the physical exertion these tasks require lend themselves nicely to this season. The ground is softer than in summer and there is a contemplative aspect to the repetitive nature the tasks have, that complements the crisp and still days that autumn can bring. Attention will often be paid to the flower beds and planters around it. But the lawn responds well to care and attention and there is a host of knowledge and expertise available for those who want to take the time to be better acquainted with it as an area to focus their efforts.

Scarifying

Over time your lawn will begin to build up unwanted reserves of dead grass and moss. As this happens, it prevents water and nutrients getting to the healthy roots and newer shoots growing around it. Scarifying is a way of removing dead and undesirable growth, otherwise known as ‘thatch’. It also breaks up grass stolons to promote new growth. One of the reasons this task is best done in autumn is that if done in spring hard raking may cause damage to newer grass growth and shoots.

What you can do at this time of year to give your lawn some much-deserved care and attention

You should rake your lawn space thoroughly but avoid causing damage to the soil in the process. Once you have created your thatch piles, you can dispose of them in the compost to benefit your garden in the future.

Aerating

Aerating is a way of making sure that air and water can get to the roots of your grass. It is best done on areas that are compacted, worn or have a high clay ratio within the soil. Lawns benefit being aerated every two to three years. The process is also known as ‘spiking’. Simply make holes about 20cm apart and this will make sure your lawn is less likely to get waterlogged in rainy weather and that the grass roots can survive through drought.

Feeding

Once you have aerated your lawn, you can improve drainage and feed it by raking in a top dressing. Bags of top dressing are available from most garden centres and consist of loam, sand and organic matter or compost that nourishes the lawn area and grass growing on it. If you used a hollow tine aerator, firstly remove the soil plugs that are on your lawn. Then put 2kg of top dressing per square metre onto your lawn and, using a plastic leaf rake, rake into the holes provided. Any excess top dressing can be brushed into flowerbeds or placed on your compost. One last piece of advice is not to leave it too late as these tasks are a lot harder to carry out once the frost comes around.

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READER’S STORY

Get rid of those moles Country Gardener readers have been contacting us with their thoughts, ideas and experiences about one of the biggest unknowns in gardening; dealing with moles First get your pickled onion! My father used to dance round his vegetable beds with a rake to deter the moles. It was hard work and I am not really sure what he was trying to do. My method is fool proof. Just brush the soil off the molehill, find the mole hole and drop in a pickled onion. Cover up the hole and take it easy while the moles abandon your garden and move next door to your neighbour’s garden. Children find this an entertaining thing to do, and it works. Barry Hands, Martock

Try pepper or shouting I’ve been doing this for years. Rather than calling the ‘mole man’ to get rid of them, try a natural approach such as a sprinkling of pepper or if that fails start making loud noises. Andy Finn, Boscombe

First know your enemy Moles are known for their acute sense of smell, so one of the best natural ways to keep them away is to put something in their tunnel that smells bad. It depends on what you would be happy placing in the tunnel, so ideas include coffee grounds and castor oil mixed with cayenne pepper, as well as moth balls. Old, smelly cheese, fermented yoghurt, or gone-off milk are good contenders. My neighbour used to put dog poo in the holes which I‘ve always thought a bit extreme but the principle is the same. Another allotment holder friend of mine swears the smell of chewing gum is hated by the moles but I’ve never tried it. Cath Morgan, Exeter

Scare them away with noise Most people believe that moles are blind and deaf. Neither is true, but their eyesight isn’t as well-developed as other mammals. And it looks like they don’t have ears, but they do – they’re just underneath their fur. Despite the mole’s poor vision, they have acute hearing and touch, and a masterful sense of smell, helping them find their way underground and avoid danger. Despite their hidden ears, moles have good hearing, so it’s possible to encourage your garden moles to move on with sounds. Hammering a metal pole into the ground above a mole tunnel makes a good mole deterrent. Tie a small metal plate to the top of the pole, and the wind will cause the plate to hit the metal pole continually. Moles find this sound particularly unpleasant – it will scare them away. Katie Davies, Portsmouth

Daffodils are the answer or so my grandma thought My grandmother was a great believer in the fact that moles hated the scent of daffodil bulbs, marigolds and alliums, so she bordered her garden with these flowering plants and was sure this was the reason she never had molehills on her lawn. Lindy Prescott, Swindon

After everything swingball was the solution My father loved his lawn and whenever moles invaded it, he took it as a personal affront and went to war against the invader. Most of the things he tried didn’t work and often had us as a family in fits of laughter. He was told that moles hated noise, so he started leaving a radio on overnight as a deterrent. That succeeded only in only annoying the neighbours and using lots of batteries up. He then bought a device which produced a high frequency solar sound which he never knew was working and didn’t seem to deter the moles. In all fairness he never resorted to having them trapped and killed or even trapped humanely. He ended up thinking that what really worked was when my brother and I bought a swingball set and placed in the garden and that made lots of noise and vibrations. It wasn’t meant as a mole device but seemed to turn into one. Paul Webb, Painswick

A natural PLANT SUPPORT for creepers Why coir moss poles could be the answer with safe effective and natural supports for a wide range of plants Whether you are short on space when it comes to gardening or simply love to create a stunning vertical garden, climbing plants and crops can benefit from added support. CoirProducts.co.uk moss poles or coir grow poles provide climbing plants with a muchneeded structure to cling on to as they grow. Made out of the natural fibrous material extracted from the husk of the coconut, the coir grow poles can enhance the natural look and feel of any space. With climbers adding colour, texture, and charm to any indoor or outdoor space, coir moss poles are a useful way to train these vines to grow in a particular way. Moss poles also offer a way to train widely growing plants into an upright narrow form to fit better in small spaces. As you might expect, climbing vines are the prime candidates for attaching to moss poles. Aroids (e.g. monstera, philodendron, and pothos) and similar tropical epiphytic species are a common choice, but anything that’s used to climbing trees is going to appreciate a moss pole. Ethically produced and sourced,the coir moss poles come in a range of innovative sizes, including in 50cm, 60cm, 70cm, 80cm, 90cm, 100cm, 120cm, 140cm, and 200cm, making them ideal for a variety of plants and space. On offer are coir grow poles with either PVC or wood, due to the aim of becoming more sustainable, as more of us move away from using harmful plastic poles and offering wooden handle climber moss poles. The natural properties of coir are particularly beneficial for plants. Aerial roots of climbing vines can easily attach themselves on to the coir moss pole, which encourages stronger and secure growth of plants. Plants that do not naturally cling on to the moss poles, do require some help. Coir has high water retention ability as well as excellent drainage, which allow aerial roots of plants to access the moisture they need. Spraying water on the moss pole as required, allows plants to benefit. A further benefit of these coir moss poles is that they are sturdy, versatile, and easy to use and store. They can also be easily used whether indoors or outdoors. They are also easy to maintain, and don’t require regular replacement, as compared to traditional wooden stakes. As plants thus grow vertically, with the support of coir grow poles, they receive better access to light, helping them grow healthier and stronger. With their added charm, vertically-growing plants and crops can transform any space.

www.CoirProducts.co.uk 29

TREE SPECIALIST

How to keep your planted tree alive - Part Two Mark Hinsley warns that there’s still work to do on any new tree plantings to allow it to adapt to its new lifestyle. Congratulations! Through all the perils of droughts, storms, high winds and strimmers your young tree has survived its first summer. Job done, you retire to your conservatory to admire it…..oh no you don’t.. you are not finished yet! Tens of thousands, or hundreds of thousands or maybe even more than that of ‘politically planted’ new trees die or grow horribly deformed through the lack of any budget set aside for maintenance. If one is trying to win votes spending money on post-planting young trees, maintenance is just not ‘sexy’ - pity, because it ought to be. Remember our naturally occurring seedling tree growing in the wild? With a deal of luck and its superior water catchment area it has survived the summer months as nature intended. What does it do now? Well, through our ever-shortening winters it doesn’t do a great deal. However, as soon as the sap starts to rise and our tree starts to grow again, it begins to do something that is very important indeed. It starts to model itself to suit its surroundings. Trees are self-optimising organisms. They learnt how to do this during the 320 million years during which they had to manage without tree surgeons. When the wind blows and the young tree waves around with it the compression or tension, depending on if it is a conifer or a broadleaf tree, is ‘felt’ within its young trunk. Under these stress conditions, where the wood is under compression in a conifer or tension in a broadleaf, a growth retardant hormone, found all around the tree, is less effective. Consequently, where the tree needs extra strength, it grows extra wood. This is why exposed open grown trees are thick at the bottom and thin at the top, whilst protected plantation trees can be much the same diameter nearly all the way up. I expect that you didn’t plant your new tree in a small clearing in the middle of a forest – oh you did! - well you can go on to the next interesting Country Gardener article. But if you didn’t, your tree needs to be able to adapt to where it is growing – but there is a problem. When the wind blows your tree around the pressure stops at the first tie on the tree stake you used to support it – so the reaction wood will form in the wrong place. We think of the stake and ties as necessary to hold the tree up – not so - the purpose of the stake and ties is to stop the root system from rocking in the ground until it has sufficient grip on the soil to do so itself.

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After the first growing season, release the ties and give the tree a gentle rock back and forth. Does the root system move? If it doesn’t you could remove the stake altogether. If you are unsure, a middle ground is to only replace the lower tie and cut the stake off just above it. This will allow more movement lower down the trunk whilst still anchoring the root system. You would then complete the removal the following year. Your tree should not spend more than two years attached to a stake. In extremis, trees left too long on the stake end up constricted by the ties and can be irreparably damaged or strong in the wrong places, making them vulnerable to snapping off when the wind blows. Trees are self-optimising – stakes and ties prevent this natural optimisation from happening. Get your tree off the stake as soon as you can.

Mark Hinsley, of Mark Hinsley Arboricultural Consultants Ltd, offering tree consultancy services. www.treeadvice.info

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Country Gardener

Plan your wallflowers for next spring A GOOD OLD FASHIONED STANDBY, WALLFLOWERS SHOULD BE PLANTED IN AUTUMN FOR A COLOURFUL DISPLAY AMONG THE BULBS NEXT SPRING With their jewel colours of orange, red, yellow and purple, wallflowers are an old favourite for spring colour, traditional cottage garden plants that literally were grown against old walls. They are still good value plants to complement forget-me-nots, tulips and other spring bulbs for a great display – and they give out a lovely, heady fragrance. Whether grown from seed or bought in bare-rooted bunches ready to be planted, wallflowers are a mainstay of the spring border and they should be planted out in autumn. Wallflowers used to be divided into two genus - Erysimum and Cheiranthus - but are now combined under Erysimum. These colourful plants have been grown in Britain for centuries and may have come here with the Normans. The name cheiranthus is thought to derive from the Greek for hand (cheir) and flower (anthos) and the heavily scented flowers were carried as nosegays to smother the stench of Elizabethan streets. There are now long lists of different varieties to choose from. Wallflowers are hardy, like a sunny well drained spot, and will grow well on most types of soil. More importantly, the plants should not be allowed to dry out, so give them a good mulch to keep them moist. They are biennials, that is, they are grown from seed one year to flower the next. If growing from seed, there are two ways, either in modules or trays or directly into the ground. If sowing directly into the ground, choose a sunny position in late May or early June with good, well-drained soil. Sow thinly, at a depth of 13mm (0.5in) deep in rows 30cm (12in) apart. Cover the seed with fine soil and water in well. Water regularly, especially during dry periods. When the plants are large enough to handle, transplant them to their final flowering positions. Better results may be gained from sowing the seeds in trays or modules, again in late May or early June, and potting them on into 3in pots when they are large enough to handle; keep them outside in a spot where you’ll remember to water them regularly. In early autumn plant them where they are to flower in drifts, not singly or in regimented rows, but give them enough space, about six inches apart. Give them some good mulch, preferably organic material, and nip out the tops to make them bush out more. If you are planting out ready grown bare rooted plants, give them a good soak for about half an hour when you get them home instead of rushing to plant them out immediately. Prepare the soil with a potash or general granular feed. If you buy plug plants or seedlings, prepare them in the same way as the young plants grown from seed to that stage.

There are some superb varieties available: Erysimum ‘John Codrington’ has yellow flowers, ‘Winter King’ has marvellous orange flowers; there’s ‘Sunset Apricot’ with pale apricot blooms, and ‘Jacob’s Jacket’ with brick red, dark orange and pink flowers, and many more. Wallflowers will grow well in containers and rock gardens as well as in borders. Then there are the perennial wallflowers. They bloom for a longer period than the biennials but don’t have the rich fragrance, and have a tendency to become woody and leggy before Wallflowers are hardy, like a sunny well drained dying out within four spot, and will grow well on most types of soil to five years, usually succumbing over winter. The way to extend their lifespan and keep them compact and vigorous is to give them a yearly midsummer trim by cutting into the foliage. However if the stems are very woody, cut back hard to the base, but try to take a few cuttings from the clippings straight afterwards. Erysimum ‘Bowles’ Mauve’ is perhaps the best known, but you can choose from ‘Constant Cheer’ which has a light scent, ‘Winter Orchid’ which flowers from winter onwards and is quite compact, and ‘Gogh’s Gold’ with so-called ‘antique’ colours. Wade through nursery catalogues and you’ll be spoilt for choice in both the biennial and the perennial varieties of these lovely traditional plants.

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Experts in your Garden 09/10/2023 08:09:37