On Our Island

On Our Island

HOW OUR FAMILY BECAME A GALVESTON BEACH FAMILY, AND WHY YOURS SHOULD TOO

By Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

When we were growing up, we only went to Gulf Shores once. It’s true the sands were white, the waters sparklingly blue. But what I remember most about that trip is that my baby brother would not stop screaming for fear of that snowcolored-sand, and that every time I stepped into the water, I came out with a jellyfish sting. It turned out that we really were, to our core, a Galveston Beach kind of family.

It makes sense. After all, it’s where our parents met, where they got married. Hell, it’s where I lived the first six or so months of my prenatal life before being carried away to Acadiana. We felt quite at home there. Still to this day, almost every time we visit, my parents make a point to drive past the monuments of their time on the island as medical residents: their old neighborhood, the pink house, Sonny’s Place.

These days, we visit Galveston more often than ever. My brother Joshua moved to the island with his wife in the summer of 2019, and they had their son—my very first nephew—last July. It’s incredible how quickly a four hour drive can go by when there is a fat, toothy baby on the other end.

Sentimentality aside, frequent visits have made me appreciate this little Texas isle all the more in recent years: as a destination, but also as a fascinating community with a lively history. Drawing together twenty-five years of at-least annual visits, combined with recommendations from my once-local and newly-local family members and some help from the Galveston Island Convention & Visitors Bureau, I’ve curated this collection of Galveston experiences worth the ferry ride.

Courtesy of the Galveston CVB.

On the Water

Honestly, though, the ferry ride alone is almost worth the trip. My parents really hit the jackpot here when it came to entertaining five small children for cheap: we might as well have been on a cruise to the Bahamas such was the sense of adventure. Upon driving onto the ramp, we’d pile out of the car, loaf of bread in hand. Industrial as it may be, the Galveston ferry gets you up close and personal with the local wildlife. The seagulls can spot a five year old with a Cheeto from a mile away, and you’ll often catch a pod of dolphins leaping along beside the ship. Time it perfectly, and pop open a bottle of champagne from the backseat, and you can call this fifteen minute voyage a sunset cruise if you want to.

Galveston gets some flack for its brown-colored beaches. But take a minute to relevel your nose and you’ll find most of the coastline quite clean, and teeming with life. If you’re intending to stay for more than a few hours, I’d recommend steering clear of the often-packed seawall and instead driving out to the more remote stretches along the west side of the island. In some spots, you can even drive your vehicle onto the sand for a tailgate-side sunset watch. Currently under renovation, the beachside of Galveston Island State Park will offer campsites right on the water in 2022.

The beaches are great for fishing, but so is the bay. For many of those years visiting Galveston, my dad had a boat, and we’d get a house on the bayside of the island, where excursions out into the brackish waters ensured dinners of fresh redfish, speckled trout, sheepshead, drum, and even flounder. Crabs, too. Our family’s favorite spot for crabbing—we use the old turkey neck and string method—is in the salt marshes around San Luis Pass, though Joshua prefers to climb onto the island’s South Jetty.

Don’t forget: anyone over the age of eighteen requires a Texas fishing license to fish or crab in Galveston (starting at $63 for saltwater packages) unless you are fishing in the State Park.

Where to Eat

For my parents, at the top of any list of Galveston musts is Sonny’s Place. You know Jo’s Bar on Grey’s Anatomy? As medical residents, this was their Jo’s. You can get a burger for under $5 and the beer is known to be the coldest ever. Ruddy and soaked in nostalgia, the place was opened by the Puccetti family in 1944, and is now considered a Galveston institution. After a few closures over the course of the coronavirus pandemic, Sonny’s plans to reopen later this summer following renovations.

Speaking of Galveston institutions owned by Italian families, if you’re looking for the classic Galveston dining experience, get yourself a reservation at Gaido’s. From its stead on the seawall, which it’s occupied since the year 1911, the upscale restaurant has maintained its reputation for serving the freshest of the Gulf’s bounty. The shrimp are hand-peeled, the oysters hand-shucked, and each dish is inspired by Gaido family recipes.

Then, there is Maceo’s. Opened in 1944 by Galveston crime boss Rosario Maceo, the Spice & Import company has the small grocery feel of yesteryear and smells like oregano. In fact, if you buy a local beer out of their fridge, you get a little whiff of Italian kitchen with every sip. The shelves are stacked with a fantastically curious assortment of house-made seasoning blends and tomato gravies alongside specialty imports of Italian pastas, canned escargot, and a truly thrilling cheese selection. When I walked in recently, two of the owners were sitting in a corner, peeling shrimp to be fried for poboys. Smiling and raising a tail to me, one of them proclaimed: “We make the best gumbo west of the Sabine River!”

Other oldtimers worth stopping by include The Original Mexican Café, which claims the spot of the longest continually operating restaurant on the island. It’s got an extensive menu of good old Tex-Mex classics, made fresh daily, and it’s been serving them up since 1916. Then, there’s Queens Bar B Que, where I highly recommend the Smoked Turkey Cliffhanger—a melt-in-your-mouth marriage of melted cheddar and jalapeño cheese, chives, and ranch dressing nestled against a pound of house smoked barbecue.

Newer concepts shine on the island too, though. Gypsy Joynt’s flamboyantly creative spread of craft burgers (including the “PMS w/ Blue Ball” which—toppling over with mac and cheese, potato chips, caramelized onions, and bacon—is served with a chocolate dipped blue cake ball) is just about the best hangover cure I’ve ever encountered. Then there’s the Old Moon Deli & Pie Shop, with its play on pub style and ornate portraits of cats adorning the walls. With All Time Low’s “Dear Maria Count Me In” playing in the background, I recently tried their special of the day: a spicy ham sandwich on a jalapeño bun with spicy mayo, gouda, spinach, and pepperoni, all smashed together for a perfectly fresh and satisfying lunch downtown. They’ve also got kombucha on tap and pies that are the stuff of legends.

As far as breakfast goes, natural light and café charm thrive in the land of Southern islands. Mosquito Café's eclectic lunch counter-style menu of benedicts, rancheros, quiche, and omelets absorb the additional sweetness granted by its verdant courtyard, bursting with lush greenery and shaded over by palm trees. Shykatz specializes in homemade breads and pastries, but is beloved for its generous all day breakfast menu. The Sunflower Bakery & Café, too, is a hyperlocal haven of scratch-made locally-sourced goodness to start your day. Go heavy with the chicken fried steak and eggs, dainty with the brie and prosciutto omelet, or straight up indulgent with the lemon curd waffles.

Speaking of indulgence: I almost never let a visit to Galveston pass by without a stop at La King’s. Opened in 1976 by the son of a Houston “Old World” candymaker, Galveston’s signature confectionary feels pulled straight out of the soda pop “Candy Man Can” era of the mid twentieth century. The massive store is chock a block full with handmade bonbons and vials of colored sugar crystals. The specialties are still made with old fashioned techniques and antique equipment. Every few hours, the candymakers come out and perform taffy pulling demos, and the ice cream parlour features Texas’s first brand of the good stuff, Purity. Whenever I find myself out on the Strand, I’ll almost always sneak in and order a dark chocolate covered caramel, with sea salt on top. Then, I’ll dream about it for weeks.

Where to Drink

One thing about Galveston that Louisianans will appreciate: you can drink on the street! At least in the historic Strand District you can, with your drink in a plastic cup. Many of the more touristy gift shops will even feature a bar or a large ice chest with a selection of beers and seltzers. If you’re looking for something a bit stronger, the cozy bohemian patio and bar of Brewchachos is worth a skip off the sidewalk for their margaritas. Stuttgarden Tavern, with its three stories and birds-eye rooftop view of the downtown area, offers a massive selection of draft beers, and Waterman’s at Pier 21 boasts the best happy hour on the island with a waterfront view.

Atop the Tremont's rooftop in downtown Galveston

Courtesy of the Galveston CVB

For truly artistic mixology though, Daquiri Time Out is your girl. From the wellknown classics to interpretations of lesser-known historic elixirs like the Queen’s Park Swizzle (a 1920s Trinidadian rum and Angostura concoction) and Donn Beach’s Infamous Zombie—each cocktail is hand-crafted using fresh, local when possible ingredients and house-made syrups.

Finally, if you’re looking to be wowed, the place to be is without a doubt the Tremont’s rooftop. Take in the tallest view of the island while perusing their seasonal menu of craft cocktails and wine offerings. At night, firepits add ambiance and cushioned couches foster fantasies of carefree, high-end luxury. I’ll take another Strawberry-Jalapeño Mexcalita, thank you very much.

For Antiquarians

Did you know that Galveston’s downtown area features the highest concentration of Victorian architecture in the country? From the jaw-dropping opulence of Moody Mansion, The Bishop’s Palace, and the Sacred Heart Church to the ornate facades adorning the Strand district, and then to the collections of historic private homes— there’s more than enough artistry to capture the imaginations of history fiends and dream house romantics alike. It all makes for a perfectly lovely afternoon of wandering, though if you’d like to get closer, the Mansion and Palace offer tours most days. To learn more about some of the island’s most significant historic properties, you can always visit or call the Galveston Historical Foundation.

Walking around the Strand, don’t miss the historical markers placed throughout, noting significant sites and moments throughout the island’s history as one of the nation’s busiest ports, as the site of a major Civil War Battle, and the devastation of our country’s deadliest natural disaster, the Great Storm of 1900. Galveston is also the birthplace of Juneteenth, the day that the last of the South’s slaves were officially freed by General Gordon Granger and his troops in 1866. “Absolute Equality,” a new mural created by The Juneteenth Legacy Project, found at the intersection of the Strand and 22nd Street, illustrates the history of African Americans’ journey to freedom in America.

And then, finally, my personal favorite pastime when visiting Downtown Galveston: shopping. The boutiques are great sure, but the real gem of Galveston is the island’s proliferation of antique shops. Some are swanky, full of works of art; some are crowded and cluttered and full of unloved treasures; there’s even a warehouse dedicated solely to nautical antiques, and it has a second floor. Some of my favorite stops are: Big House Antiques, La Maison Rouge, and St. John Antiques. There’s also, hidden behind a door and up the stairs in the building behind the “Absolute Equality” mural a shop called Mamady. It’s worth stopping in to view the truly remarkable collection of African art and collectibles, but even more so to meet Mamady himself, who is a wealth of knowledge on the subjects of African culture and history, and can tell you the story behind each and every piece in his store.

Head downstairs, and you’ll find G. Lee Gallery, a wonderful shop featuring the work of Galveston artists exclusively. Last time I visited, I purchased a pen and ink rendering by artist Nina Struthers of St. Patrick Catholic Church, the place where my parents were married. And if it’s art you’re into, don’t sleep on Postoffice Street, the center of arts and culture in Galveston. Grab a coffee at MOD and browse local creations at The Galveston Art League Gallery or the vibrant geometric depictions of Gulf Coast life at René Wiley Gallery, plus plenty more. To experience the arts district at its best, time your trip to coincide with the Galveston Arts Center’s Artwalk, which takes place every six to eight weeks (upcoming 2021 dates are July 17, August 28, October 9, and November 27).

René Wiley Studio on Postoffice Street

Courtesy of the Galveston CVB

Dig in

If you’re the kind of traveler who likes to go beyond the façade curated for a place’s tourists and to leave with a better understanding of its community, I’d recommend you start with Seeding Galveston. The nonprofit’s heart is it’s farm in midtown, where you’ll likely find John Sessions or Debbie Demmons Berger (and maybe even my brother Joshua, who has become an enthusiastic volunteer), who’ll be glad to show you around. The nonprofit got its starts from the realization that prior to its opening, there was virtually no place to access island-grown produce.

Through educational programming, a CSA project, and regular events like Working Farm Suppers, Harvest Mornings, and regular participation in island Farmer’s Markets—Seeding Galveston hopes to initiate and foster a more sustainable culture of urban agriculture on the island.

Courtesy of the Galveston CVB

Visitors are welcome, and volunteers even more so. So, if you’re looking to get your hands in some dirt, just head on over. You’ll likely leave with a bagful of peppers.

Settled on an acre, the farm blooms with rows and rows of seasonal veggies and herbs. Sessions is even trying to get a cotton crop going. There are chickens, and a massive turkey, and a few mama goats with their babies. And in the back is a towering pile of compost—fed by the nonprofit’s partnership with Keepin’ It Green’s recycling, which recently added compost pickup to their services. They deliver all of the compost they collect around the island straight to Seeding Galveston.

Every Wednesday, the public is invited to the farm for Harvest Mornings, which offer the island’s freshest selection of produce while being immersed in the possibilities of urban agriculture.

Another organization worth paying a visit to is Artist Boat, a group that facilitates experiences around the island designed to educate and involve residents and visitors of the importance of Galveston’s natural environments. Coastal restoration meets public art in an effort to protect and beautify Galveston’s coastlines. Their work is funded by their Eco-Art Kayak tours, which take participants into the swamps and the bays to experience the wonders of the Gulf firsthand.

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