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A Hiker's Guide to Louisiana
A Hiker's Guide to Louisiana
RUGGED HILLS AND STUNNING VISTAS AWAIT
Story by Jonathan Olivier • Photo by C.C. Lockwood
T here are some backpacking trips that tend to stick with you, no matter how much time has lapsed. Those where the vistas never seem to end, mountains stretching to the horizon. And others that may have been plagued by bad weather or some other complication, but good company turned the whole trip around. For me, one of my most cherished adventures comes not from the many nights I spent in the Colorado Rockies or covered beneath the Appalachians’ canopy, but rather from right here in Louisiana, within the Kisatchie National Forest. I had first learned of Kisatchie back in high school: a patchwork of federal land scattered throughout central and northern Louisiana. I first trekked there in college, landing on the 7.6-mile Backbone Trail within one of the state’s only wilderness areas, the Kisatchie Hills Wilderness. That first afternoon, I remember being floored by the terrain—rolling hills and intermittent sandstone outcrops that offered views of one of the flattest states in the country. I set up camp that night on top of a bluff where I could see for miles over the longleaf pine forest. The next morning, the sun turned everything amber, making my view that much sweeter. As I sipped instant coffee, I basked in the solitude, the quiet, and nature’s display. For a second, I felt like I was the only person in the world watching the sun rise. This list of hikes includes some of the best in Louisiana, from the swampy lowlands to the highest point in the state. While not often properly recognized for its trails, our backyard holds some of the most unique and diverse landscapes in the country. You don’t have to trek out of state to have an excellent time hiking—you might be surprised by the gems right around the corner.
Backbone Trail: Kisatchie National Forest
The Backbone Trail is within the 8,700-acre Kisatchie Hills Wilderness Area, one of the only designated places in the state that boasts hills up to four hundred feet in elevation. Its terrain is some of the most unique in Louisiana, marked by undulating hills, sandstone outcrops, small waterfalls, and longleaf pine savannahs. “Anytime during the week, you’ll most likely be by yourself up there,” said John Williams, owner of Pack and Paddle, an outdoor recreation outfitter in Lafayette. “The highlight, for me, is that the trail is one of the only ones in the state where you’ll see rocks.” At under eight miles, the trail can easily be done in a day. To ensure you’ll only need one car, Williams said to make the trail into a loop, walking south along the Longleaf Scenic Byway and tacking on around two extra miles for a nine-mile roundtrip. The Backbone can also be explored as an overnight. Park near the Caroline Dorman trailhead, crossing the Byway to the Backbone trailhead. Heading to the campsite, you’ll trudge over a few hills through a mix of pine and bottomland hardwoods forest, and cross a couple of small creeks—depending on the time of year, these may be wet crossings. At around four miles, you will cross a creek deeper than what you previously encountered, then climb up a short but steep bluff, where to your right you’ll find a few campsites on the hill’s edge. You’ll have sweeping views to the east of pine-covered hills. Follow the blazes to the northern terminus of the trail, then hike south along the forest road back to your car.
Caroline Dormon Trail: Kisatchie National Forest
The trail’s namesake, naturalist and author Caroline Dormon from central Louisiana, is best remembered for being the first female U.S. Forest Service employee. Although adjacent to the Backbone Trail, the Caroline Dorman Trail is considerably flatter, with fewer sections of hills. The trail winds through bottomland hardwood forest and pines, crossing creeks and bypassing a few small waterfalls. One of the trail’s terminuses is at the Kisatchie Bayou Campground, paralleled by the Kisatchie Bayou, which is a state natural and scenic stream. Here, sandstones cover the sides of the waterway for a view more like the ones you’d find in Arkansas. At most times of the year, near the campground is a small, cascading waterfall that pours into a swimming hole. “The best part of the Caroline Dormon Trail is the three miles closest to Kisatchie Bayou Campground,” Williams said. “The bayou has a beautiful sand bottom and is bordered by a lot of hardwoods and magnolia trees.” At 10.5 miles in length, the Caroline Dormon can also be completed as an overnight out-and-back to total just under twenty-two miles. Start at the trailhead off of the Longleaf Vista Byway and camp at the Kisatchie Bayou Campground. For a day hike, you’ll have to shuttle, parking a vehicle at both trailheads.
Mount Driskill: Bienville Parish
Mount Driskill is the closest you’ll get to finding a mountain in the Bayou State. It’s the state’s highest point, measuring in at 535 feet above sea level, and this trail will take you all the way to the top—albeit totaling less than two hundred feet in elevation gain along the way. This part of Louisiana contains some of the hilliest terrain around, with multiple hills topping out above four hundred feet in elevation, but the only gear required is a pair of hiking shoes. This one can be done by hikers of any age. This hike is only 1.8 miles, easily done in a morning. The parking lot is near a church with the trailhead close by—signs will direct you to Driskill. Almost all of the trail is under dense tree canopy, although there are some opportunities for views along the way. One of them is Jordan Mountain Overlook, which offers a nice view of the surrounding bumpy terrain. At the summit you’ll find a marker with a guestbook.
Wild Azalea Trail: Kisatchie National Forest
On the Wild Azalea Trail, hikers get a chance to test out their backpacking skills. It’s the longest path in the state at twenty-eight miles one-way, although it’s often completed as an out-and-back to total fifty-six miles. At that distance, it’s best to take an entire weekend or even three days to complete the trail. The Azalea is located in the Kisatchie National Forest, Evangeline Unit of the Calcasieu Ranger District. Here, rolling hills define the terrain, with small creeks in each fold that are full of clear water. The best time to hike is in spring, when hunting seasons are closed and the trail’s namesake azalea flowers are blooming. “I usually go in March to see the wild azaleas,” Williams said. “In the Castor Creek Scenic Area, there aren’t many crowds and the flowers are all over in the hollows between the hills.” Trailheads are located at the Woodworth Town Hall (though this one requires a couple of miles of walking along the road to reach the trail itself) and the Valentine Lake Recreation Area. Also the Evangeline Camp Trailhead is in the middle of the trail, and Williams advises that some of the best hiking on the Wild Azalea is along this trail. Although there are a few designated camping spots, dispersed camping is allowed in the forest at least thirty feet away from the trail.
Lake Chicot Loop Trail: Chicot State Park
Lake Chicot in Ville Platte is located within Chicot State Park, which offers several day-use amenities and camping sites for tents or RVs, as well as cabins and pre-set-up Tentrr campsites available for rental. The environment around the lake is diverse, ranging from cypress-laden lowlands to hilly hardwoods. In the winter, the lake is home to migratory waterfowl and birds, and in spring wildflowers are in bloom. The loop encircles the lake and is twenty miles long, though all but around two miles of the loop is closed for the time being. When re-opened, it’s best completed as an overnight, but tackling it in a day is possible. There are several campsites along the trail to choose from, as well as trailheads. The trail ranges from dirt path to boardwalks in low sections—trail workers have done an excellent job of placing markers to help with flora identification. For handicapped or young hikers, Williams recommended checking out the Louisiana State Arboretum, which is within the state park, for approximately five miles of easier trails.
C Trail: Tunica Hills Wildlife Management Area
Adjacent to the Mississippi River in this part of the state, near St. Francisville, are sections of hills comprised of loess soil—wind-blown sediment that has been shaped into rugged hills, extending all the way up to Tennessee. All of the almost six thousand-acre Tunica Hills Wildlife Management Area is defined by this terrain, home to bluffs and waterfalls more than ten feet high. The loop is 3.6 miles with a few steep but manageable grades. Orange blazes painted on trees will guide you through the hilly forest, with some sections boasting sharp embankments near the trail. The path traverses a few stream beds and has a nice view of a river.
C. C. Lockwood
