Countryside Field Guide - Thanksgiving by Countryside

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Thanksgiving LO C A L | S E A S O N A L

Every year like clockwork we receive a barrage of emails, interview requests, and questions asking about sourcing local ingredients for Thanksgiving. This guide is an attempt to share a wide range of information on ingredients that are likely to be available, their characteristics, and ideas on how to incorporate them into the favorite holiday of food lovers. As an organization that exists to connect food, land, and people, we believe it is imperative that we make it easier for our customers to make the local choice. Often, a lack of information on what is available is the biggest barrier. Other times it is a lack of knowledge on what to do with what is available that is the barrier. Through this guide it is our hope to bridge those information gaps, and provide concrete guidance that can equip you with the knowledge you need to act on your inclinations to support local farmers and food businesses. If you are seeking more information on why supporting local farms is so important, we encourage you to visit our website for a host of reasons on why it is good for our economy, our communities, and our quality of life. cvcountryside.org Because this is agriculture, which is at the mercy of the elements, we cannot make guarantees to what will or won’t be available, but we encourage you not to be discouraged by that. After all, that is part of the joy of eating seasonally and locally. If the number one item on your list isn’t available, chances are there is something equally wonderful to be discovered that you hadn’t considered before. Carpe diem! While the pictures and recipes included in these pages present an ideal scenario—reach for the stars, right? We don’t want it to become the “perfect” that discourages you from the “good.” Jump in where you are able and embrace what you do without guilt. We’ll be cheering you on the whole way. We are so excited about this guide and bringing it to fruition, which wouldn’t have been possible without the dedicated and enthusiastic assistance of many talented people—artists, chefs, and designers. In particular, we want to call out designer James Kurtz and photographer Shane Wynn, who both demonstrated an incredible ability to interpret our vision and not only bring it to life but to embrace it as their own and improve it with their input. We are also extremely grateful for the support of Burton D. Morgan Foundation who provided the funding to bring this concept to life. Thank you for allowing us to share in your Thanksgiving celebration. With Gratitude,

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FIELD GUIDE

Beth Knorr

Erin Molnar

Director of Markets

Farmers’ Market Manager

Thanksgiving

TURKEY

Blue Slate

Broad Breasted Bronze

Also referred to simply as Slate, and named for the charac-

The Bronze turkey is the result of crosses between English

teristic ashy blue color of their feathers. Natural breeding

turkeys and wild American turkeys; the resulting bird was

makes consistency in feather color difficult to achieve and

larger in size than the English, but also acceptably tame.

some birds have feathers that are almost black. Standard

The Broad Breasted Bronze is a further descendent, bred

production weight for a tom is 23 pounds; production

to have a larger breast. This breed was the main commer-

hens typically weigh in around 14 pounds. Pin feathers are

cial variety in the mid 1900s, until the Broad Breasted

Sourcing your Thanksgiving turkey from local

door production system; 3. Slow growth rate—birds reach a

dark, which will remain visible on a cooked and dressed

White became preferable in the 1960s. The Broad Breasted

farms offers many of the same benefits as produce, as

marketable weight around 28 weeks. This allows develop-

bird. Slate turkeys are on the American Livestock Breed’s

Bronze is not a true heritage breed as it requires artificial

well as some additional perks. Farm-raised birds are of-

ment of a strong skeleton and healthy organs.

Conservancy “Watch” list, indicating that there are less

insemination; nonetheless it is need of conservation and is

ten pastured, meaning that they are free to roam and

than 5,000 breeding birds in the US.

an excellent choice for backyard or sustainable production.

feed on grass and insects. This allows them a better, fre-

more flavorful, as well as moister. The dark meat can even

er life, but also enhances the complexity of their flavor,

cross the line into gamey. These flavors and characteris-

and improves the texture of the meat. The nutritional

tics are part genetics, part diet, and part the byproduct

benefits of pastured poultry are also significant with

of the duration of their lifespan. Because heritage breeds

higher Omega 3s, lower Omega 6s, higher Vitamin E

take longer to hit a target weight (almost double that of

and lower fatty acids and cholesterol. If birds are sup-

the Broad Breasted White), they have the chance to fur-

plemented with grains, many farmers use GMO-free

ther develop a good layer of fat and thicker skin – both

feed. (Please check with farms for their specific practic-

of these help meat retain flavor and moisture during the

es and protocols.) Depending on the arrangements you

cooking process.

make with your farm/farmers, you can potentially by-

pass receiving a frozen bird, which can greatly simplify

more expensive than those purchased at the grocery store.

the logistics of preparation.

This is largely due to the additional labor and resources

Bourbon Red

Broad Breasted White

Additionally, depending on the farm you work

involved in raising poultry sustainably and on pasture.

This breed was developed in the late 1800s for a heavy breast

The most common breed for turkey production. Devel-

with, you can select your preferred breed of turkey. Many

Heritage breeds are more expensive than their Broad

and richly flavored meat. It was commercially popular in the

oped in the 1960s to maximize size in minimal time. Toms

farms raise the Broad Breasted White, which is the breed

Breasted White compatriots; slow and longer growth ac-

1930s and 1940s, but fell out of favor as the Broad Breasted

reach a harvest weight of 38 pounds in 18 weeks; hens

designed and maintained for commercial production, but

counts for much of the additional cost as farmers need to

Bronze and its successor, the Broad Breasted White, proved

reach their harvest weight of 17.5 pounds in 14 weeks. As

raise them on pasture and in small, sustainable flocks. Oth-

invest more labor and resources in bringing the birds to

more commercially viable. These beautiful birds are covered

the name implies, these birds feature large breasts relative

er specialized farms offer heritage breeds, which meet the

harvest weight.

in mahogany plumage with white flight and tail feathers;

to their overall size. Birds have white pin-feathers, which

following criteria: 1. Naturally mating; 2. Long productive

There is an unending array of turkey preparation

light pin feathers allow for a clean looking and attractive

result in a cleaner looking carcass – a commercially desir-

outdoor lifespan—breeding hens are productive for 5-7 years

methods. If you opt for a heritage breed, make sure that

carcass. As with the Slate, production toms weigh around

able trait. A side-effect of the selection for these traits is

and breeding toms are productive for 3-5 years. Additionally,

you choose one that accounts for the smaller breast size

23 pounds and hens around 14. The Bourbon Red is on the

that this breed cannot naturally reproduce; they require

these birds are naturally hearty enough to survive in an out-

and additional differences.

American Livestock Breed’s Conservancy “Watch” list.

artificial insemination to produce viable eggs.

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Meat from heritage breeds is generally richer and

Turkeys sourced directly from farms are often

FIELD GUIDE

Thanksgiving

GREENS

SWISS CHARD CAKES Brian Doyle, Cafe Avalaun SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS 2 bunches of swiss chard

The world of greens is vast, and our vendors con-

fall in order for the crops to be ready at that time.

tinue to explore and expand what they offer. Season ex-

tension techniques such as using high tunnels, low tunnels,

at our markets throughout the year, and for Thanksgiv-

and row covers help growers harvest a multitude of leafy

ing it is no exception. There are, of course, the familiar

things throughout the winter months. These techniques

Swiss Chard and Arugula varieties as well as lettuces, but

are being more widely adopted, making it possible for us

something we’ve seen crop up in recent years is Dandeli-

to not only have greater quantities of fresh items in the

on greens. It may seem odd for a farmer to purposefully

winter but also more variety.

plant Dandelions, but their delicious addition to the table

removes any wonder why they would do so.

Because our day length in Ohio is not long enough

We’re excited to see so many varieties of greens

for items to actively grow in the winter even with the pro-

The bitter greens can be challenging for some pal-

tection of tunnels and row covers, farmers are only able

ettes, but cooking them can tame them and make them

to harvest during the winter months. This means that they

a welcome addition to balance out the many rich dishes

need to have meticulous plans in place in order to determine

served at Thanksgiving.

how much they anticipate harvesting at any given time, and

walk that back out to when they need to plant items in the

pepper flakes, potatoes, pasta, beans, soy sauce, sesame oil.

Arugula

Dandelion Greens

Spinach

Swiss Chard

Peppery yet delicate, espe-

Turgid and waxy leaves,

The ubiquitous spring and

Leaves big enough to wrap

cially after a frost. Young

best wilted or sautéed.

fall green is a wonderful,

around

leaves are a natural addi-

Some

vitamin-packed

addition

chèvre, julienned vegetables,

tion to salads, while more

beautiful red stem through

to smoothies, but holds its

or even ground and sautéed

mature leaves can be treat-

the middle, which is tender

own in salads, fillings, and

meats. Perfect for risottos

ed as turnip greens. Won-

enough not to remove pri-

gratins. Younger leaves are

when shredded, in soups,

derful as a replacement for

or to cooking. Stands up

the preferred choice for

stews, and casseroles. Treat

basil in pesto or used in

well to copious amounts of

salads, reserving mature

like spinach, removing any

chimichurri sauces, served

garlic, sautéed, and served

specimens for cooking.

large stems to be sautéed sep-

over roasted squash or

as a side dish.

Common pairings with Greens: garlic, vinegars, red

¼ cup minced garlic 3 large eggs ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg 1 cup shredded pecorino romano 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon fresh cracked pepper Extra virgin olive oil for frying

DIRECTIONS 1. Wash the swiss chard very well. Rough chop the swiss chard (including stems) and boil for 5 minutes. Drain and let cool. Squeeze as much moisture out as possible. Chop the chard some more to make more fine and combine with rest of ingredients. 2. Make into cakes about 2 inches in diameter. Fry in a thin layer of extra virgin olive oil for about 4 minutes per side on medium high heat. 3. Drain on paper towel and serve. Can be served room temp.

varieties

have

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FIELD GUIDE

such

arately or pickled for a bright

steaks alike.

fillings

accompaniment.

Thanksgiving

Broccoli

Cauliflower

Kohlrabi

A classic. Choose firm heads with

Mild and slightly sweet with a hint of

One of the least recognized Brassica.

tightly packed florets; avoid signs of

nuttiness. Look for tight florets, with

The name means “cabbage turnip,”

yellowing. Broccoli’s vegetal sweet-

no visible bruising or brown spots.

which is an appropriate way to help

ness lends itself to a simple steaming

White varieties are most commonly

wrap your head around them. Their

or roasting, but also stands up well

seen, but purple, green and yellow/

shape and texture lend themselves to

to pairing with strong flavors of gar-

orange are also available. Flavor is

a turnip comparison, while their fla-

lic or lemon, curries or cheeses. And

consistent regardless of color, but nu-

vor profile is very cabbage-y. Shaved

don’t overlook eating the stem! Sim-

tritional components vary somewhat.

raw, kohlrabi is a great base for a re-

ply trim off the tough outer skin and

“Cheddar” variety pictured.

freshing slaw, while roasting brings

prepare as you would florets.

out an earthy sweetness.

Cauliflower Puree Douglas Katz, Fire, Food and Drink SERVES 8

BRASSICAS

INGREDIENTS

Brussels sprouts and kale rise to adoration R e ccleaned i p e fand rom o u2 g l a pieces s Katz of fire, food and drink 2 heads cauliflower, cut D into inch 1½ cups heavy cream 1 bay leaf 1 sprig thyme Salt Cayenne pepper

DIRECTIONS

Brussels Sprouts

Kale

Most people either LOVE or HATE these guys. If you are

This darling Brassica barely needs an introduction these days.

a hater, give them another chance – being careful not to

Add some spice to your kale routine by trying different va-

overcook them, or try pairing them with bacon or parme-

rieties – curly, red/white Russian and dinosaur/Lacinato are

san (or both). Buy your sprouts on the stalk, if possible –

commonly seen at the market and are diverse enough in fla-

they will stay fresher and sweeter for longer. Sprouts that

vor to keep your kale-centered dishes from becoming a bore.

have stayed in the field through a frost or two tend to be

Remember to strip the tough rib out of the center before

sweeter. If you are using larger sprouts, cut them in half to

preparing the leaves; save the stem though, for pickling or a

help even cooking throughout.

quick roasting.

BRASSICAS

You may not be familiar with the term Brassica, but

la), but most thrive and produce the best in the spring and

you definitely know most of the veg that are in this family.

fall. Other lovely Brassicas—Cabbage, Collards, Radishes

Farmers often speak of these collectively, despite their diver-

(see Root Veg), Bok Choi and other Asian Greens, Mustard

sity, because they have similar planting and cultivation needs.

Greens, Arugula (see Greens)

Some members of the family can tolerate the heat of the sum-

mer (kale, collards), and some can produce a crop that is able

(particuarly garlic), bacon, grains, both pungent and mild

to be harvested over the winter (mustard greens and arugu-

cheeses, vinegar/vinaigrettes, lemon, cumin, curry and ginger.

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1. Place cauliflower, cream, bay leaf and thyme in a small pot. Cook until the cauliflower is tender (about 25-30 minutes.) 2. Remove bay leaf and thyme stems. Strain and reserve the liquid. 3. Puree cauliflower in a blender or food processor and add liquid if needed to achieve proper consistency. 4. Season with salt and cayenne pepper to taste and serve. Optional: add roasted garlic for another element of flavor.

Delicious pairings for Brassicas include: alliums

FIELD GUIDE

Thanksgiving

Root Vegetables

In some areas of this guide, vegetables have been

During the fall and winter, roots are often roasted

grouped based on their botanical relationships; in this

or braised and pair well with alliums, potatoes, sweet po-

case, these veg belong together based on what part of the

tatoes, winter squash, apples and pears. Brown butter, vin-

plant we typically eat. You can expect some similarities in

egars, warm spices, aromatic herbs, cheeses, mushrooms

flavor profile – earthy, sweet, rich – and can often use the

and cream are all fantastic compliments.

same simple preparation methods.

Steamed, Browned Beets Erin Molnar, Countryside Conservancy SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS 4 medium beets

Carrots

Beets

Carrots fresh from the farm are a different experience than

Beets also come in a rainbow, from the deepest red that

those from the grocery store; they are sweet, complex and

usually comes to mind, to yellow, to white, to a striped

incredibly addictive. Carrots store well, post-harvest and

pink, called Chiogga or candy stripe. The intensity of fla-

in the ground in cooler temperatures (a frost can improve

vor increases with the depth of color; deep red beets are

their flavor - you can find them at the market late into the

the earthiest and richest, while the rest are milder. All are

winter months.

sweet and delicious!

Turnips

Radishes

Celery Root

In the spring, early summer and

Radishes can range from mild to in-

Also commonly called celeriac. These

fall, look for salad turnips – smaller

tensely spicy. Black Spanish have a

knobby roots are often overlooked

globed, mild and crisp and perfect for

matte black skin, white flesh and ro-

for their awkward appearance and a

fresh eating. For a thanksgiving meal,

bust flavor. Watermelon are a beau-

lack of familiarity with their poten-

you will most likely find storage tur-

tiful pink on the outside, sometimes

tial. The flavor has strong compo-

nips – large bulbs, white with pur-

fading to green, and are stunningly

nents of celery and parsley, but is also

ple tops, or tan skinned with golden

red-to-pink on the inside. Both can

sweet and rich, with a mild earthi-

flesh. These are mild in flavor, though

be eaten fresh, but cooking them will

ness. Quick tip: use a serrated bread

still sweet and earthy.

help them mellow.

knife to peel.

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FIELD GUIDE

Olive oil Sea salt Freshly ground pepper

DIRECTIONS

1. Trim stems off beets. Keep tails on to help retain moisture. 2. Steam until fork-tender, but slightly firmer than for eating. About 25 minutes. 3. Let beets cool until they are easy to handle. 4. If you prefer, you can peel them. Slice or cube to your preferred size. 5. Toss the beets with olive oil, salt and pepper. 6. Heat oven to 400°F degrees. 7. Spread in a single layer in a baking dish and roast until browned, about 25 minutes. Toss them a couple times throughout roasting for even browning. OR Heat a skillet over mediumhigh heat and pan-fry beets until browned, tossing throughout, about 25 minutes. 8. Feel free to add a bit of balsamic vinegar to the oil/salt/pepper. This will add more depth, sweetness and complexity to the browning. Thanksgiving

Steamed & Sauced Leeks Larkin Rogers, Conservancy for CVNP SERVES 4-6

Onions

Shallots

Most onion harvesting occurs over the summer; hardier vari-

Technically an onion, shallots are distinct enough to be

eties store exceptionally well and are available at market al-

considered separately. The bulb is actually composed of

most until the spring, while other varieties (usually the sweet-

multiple clusters, and the flavor is a bit more delicate,

er types) are better fresh. Storage onions are white, yellow or

sometimes with a very slight floral component. Interesting-

red. They can largely be used interchangeably, though white

ly, despite the milder flavor, shallots contain more phenols

onions are slightly milder and red are more pungent, with

and antioxidants than their common onion counterparts.

yellow falling in between

INGREDIENTS 4 leeks 3 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon dijon mustard Salt Pepper Nutmeg Tabasco

DIRECTIONS 1. Wash leeks very well. Trim most of the green top and then slice horizontally across into 1/2 inch slices. 2. You’ll need a sauté pan with a lid (or a sheet pan to act as a lid so the leeks can steam). 3. Once the leeks are cleaned, this dish goes together in less than 5 minutes, so be ready—if cooked too long, the leeks will turn a khakigreen, which will taste fine but look as good. 4. Place a film of water in sauté pan—just enough to steam (not boil). Turn heat to medium-high. Add leeks to pan and cover.

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5. When the green part has turned a vibrant green and most (but not all) of the water has evaporated, stir in the butter; let it melt. Then stir in the mustard—the butter, mustard, and remaining water become the sauce for the leeks. 6. Season as desired with mustard, salt, peper, nutmeg, and Tabasco.

Garlic

Leeks

The hardneck varieties available at market offer a more com-

Leeks are probably the least commonly used of the Al-

plex flavor profile than the softneck versions from the gro-

liums listed. Which is a shame, because they really are a

cery store. We often think of garlic as a single flavor, but there

prize; more seasonal than onions and garlic (they do not

is actually incredible diversity between varieties. Chat with

store as well), look for them in late summer and through-

your farmers to select new and different types. Garlic stores

out the fall and early winter. Their flavor is milder than

well, so although harvest happens mid-summer, it’s available

their relatives. The white and pale green portions are edi-

at market throughout the winter.

ble; use the greens and root end for stock.

Alliums

FIELD GUIDE

It’s hard to imagine a meal – any meal, let alone

will deepen their sweetness and mellow their bite.

Thanksgiving – without the inclusion of onions or garlics as

ingredients in one, if not several, dishes. We often consider

tions for alliums. They pair well with almost everything,

allium flavors as a necessary background, but featuring them

but cooked greens, roots and winter squash are best

as the star of their own dishes will deepen your love and ap-

friends for the season. Oils, butter, cream and cheeses

preciation for them. Raw preparations will highlight their

partner well. Try warm spices, like cinnamon, cloves and

bright sharpness, while braising, roasting and caramelizing

nutmeg, for extra depth and earthiness.

Thanksgiving

Roasting and caramelizing are fantastic prepara-

BAKING

Red Thumb

Purple Majesty

Rosy skin with pale yellow flesh, blushing with red.

Purple skinned and purple fleshed. Earthy and slightly

Fingerlings.

nutty in flavor.

BOILING

Roasted Confetti Potatoes With Bacon, Malt Vinegar and Herb Glaze Heidi Robb, Food Stylist, Recipe Developer, Writer

Austrian Crescent

Red Gold

Yellow skinned and yellow fleshed. Fingerlings.

Light red skin with yellow flesh. Mild and earthy flavor.

ALL-PURPOSE

INGREDIENTS

Yukon Gold

Tan skin with white flesh. Classic potato flavor without

Tan skin with yellow flesh. Deep and buttery in flavor. A

being bland.

farmer and market favorite!

potatoes The great diversity in potatoes is often overlooked.

work well for salads. They will bake and roast well, but

Color and size differences are easy to detect, but less so are

will not be particularly fluffy when mashed. All-purpose,

the textural differences that impact our dishes when we

varieties straddle the two categories and can be used with

cook them. Some potatoes have a higher starch content

relative success in either direction.

(sometimes referred to as baking potatoes); these varieties

have a drier flesh, bake up fluffy and mash well, but disin-

bles, as well as winter squash. Butter, cheese, cream and

tegrate in soup. Low starch varieties (also known as boil-

aromatic herbs are common partners for a reason - they

ing potatoes) are waxy and keep their shape in soups and

are absolutely delicious together!

1 large shallot, thinly sliced lengthwise ¼ cup malt vinegar 2 plump cloves garlic, minced ½ cup chopped parsley 2 tablespoons picked thyme leaves Coarse-ground black pepper

1 pound Red Thumb, halved 1 pound Yukon Gold, halved 1 pound Purple Majesty, halved 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 6 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into lardons

Kennebec

SERVES 6

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Potatoes get along well with other root vegeta-

FIELD GUIDE

DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat oven to 425°F with a center rack. 2. In a bowl, toss potatoes with the olive oil and salt to coat. Spread evenly onto a heavy baking sheet and roast for 30 minutes. Turn potatoes with a spatula and roast another 15-25 minutes until crispy and cooked through. 3. While potatoes are cooking, heat a saute pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add a slick of olive oil to coat and add the bacon lardons, Cook lardons until fat has rendered and the piecesare browning but not crispy. Off heat, tip out all but 2-3 tablespoons of cooking fat.

4. Return pan to heat and add the shallots and malt vinegar, stirring, and reduce to a syrupy glaze. 5. Remove pan from heat and stir in the garlic, parsley, thyme; add black pepper to taste. 6. Turn roasted potatoes into a bowl and add the bacon mixture, turning to coat well. Taste to correct seasoning and finish with more chopped parsley at serving.

Thanksgiving

Sweet Potato Soufflés Dante D’Avello, Totally Cooked Catering SERVES 6 White Bonita

INGREDIENTS

The flesh of this variety is drier and even sweeter than Beauregard, making it a great candidate for sweet potato fries and other baked applications where moisture is less desirable.

3 whole sweet potatoes, large 2 whole large eggs ½ cup melted unsalted butter ¼ cup coconut milk ½ cup maple or brown sugar ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 teaspoon salt Zest of 1 orange 1 cup toasted pecan pieces

Beauregard

DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat your oven to 375°F degrees. 2. Oil and roast the sweet potatoes until fork tender. 3. Remove the sweet potatoes from the oven and let rest until cool enough to handle. 4. Split the potatoes in half and scoop out the flesh leaving enough sweet potato in the skin to provide structure. Save shells to fill with souffle mixture. 5. Place the roasted sweet potato flesh into a high speed blender or food processor. Add the eggs, butter, coconut milk, maple sugar, orange zest, baking soda, cinnamon, vanilla and salt, and process the mixture until smooth. Pipe the sweet potato mixture into the prepared shells and place in preheated oven for approximately 30/35 minutes.

6. The soufflé will be done when you can gently shake the dish, is slightly brown on top and the soufflé is firm but jiggles slightly. 7. Top with toasted pecans before serving.

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This is a typical orange fleshed variety with red skin. Sweet and moist, it’s perfect for your typical Thanksgiving preparations.

Sweet Potatoes

FIELD GUIDE

Sweet potatoes can be a challenge to grow in

flesh colors. Skins can range from tan to red to pur-

Ohio. Day length, temperature, and small burrowing crit-

ple, and flesh can be white, yellow, orange, and pur-

ters all work against a bountiful crop for local growers.

ple, with lighter flesh being slightly drier in consistency.

It’s particularly devastating when unearthing a specimen

that looks amazing at first glance, only to flip it over to

quently used interchangeably, it’s likely many of us have

see that it’s been completely hollowed out by a vole. Some

never encountered a true yam, which are imported from

growers have had a great deal of success growing them in

the Caribbean and have thick, sometimes hairy skins.

hilled-up ridges in high tunnels. In addition to providing a

delicious tuber for eating, the foliage is particularly attrac-

they are equally well suited to steaming, boiling, sautéing,

tive throughout its growing season, and some varieties are

and even grilling. Like many starchy vegetables, they can be

actually grown for their greenery for flower arrangements

pureed and added to other foods such as muffins and pies.

and decorative planters.

Sweet potatoes pair nicely with brown sugar, maple syrup,

cinnamon, ginger, bourbon, coconut, and pecans.

Sweet Potatoes come in an array of skin and

Thanksgiving

While the terms sweet potato and yams are fre-

Roasting these tubers brings out the sweetness, and

Winter Squash

It’s difficult to think of any other crop that is more

to be scooped out or stuffed, the exceptions being Butter-

strongly associated with fall and Thanksgiving than win-

nut and Delicata. Both varieties have thinner skins and are

ter squash. Winter squashes come in many shapes and siz-

easy to peel, allowing you to sauté, boil, or steam them in

es, and their odd bumps and warts should not discourage

addition to roasting. In fact, the skin of the Delicata vari-

you from giving them a try. A large, heavy, and very sharp

ety can be eaten. Classic pairings with winter squash in-

knife is a must for prepping them.

clude sage, brown butter, cinnamon, soy sauce, mirin, gin-

ger, allspice, coconut milk, curry, apples, pears, hazelnuts,

Many winter squashes have a thick skin, and are

best cut into halves or wedges to roast with the skin on,

Squash Dumplings with Deglazed Mushroom Sauce Ben Bebenroth, Spice Companies SERVES 4

pecans, and the Swiss family of cheeses such as Gruyere.

DUMPLING INGREDIENTS

SAUCE INGREDIENTS

2 cups pureed squash, oven roasted

½ cup mushrooms, cleaned and quartered

2 eggs

1 tablespoon butter

Buttercup

Butternut

Carnival

1 cup flour

1 tablespoon olive oil

Round and squat dense fleshed fruits

Extremely versatile oblong squash

Very colorful Acorn squash variety, hav-

2 teaspoons salt

1 shallot, sliced

with dark green skin. Very sweet. An

with a round bottom, tan skin, and

ing yellow, green and orange striations.

¼ teaspoon nutmeg, ground

¼ cup Sherry or Madeira wine

excellent choice for Japanese sim-

sweet light orange flesh. Great in

Slightly sweeter than it’s dark green-

mered dishes (Kabocha no Nimono)

grain salads, risottos, and soups.

skinned cousins. Perfect for stuffing.

Delicata

Hubbard

Peanut

Oblong fruits yellow or orange in

An excellent storage variety that gets

Pink skin with what looks like pea-

color with green striations running

sweeter and drier with age. Very dif-

nut shells encrusting the outside. The

its length. This variety does not store

ficult to cut, but well worth the ef-

flesh is light in texture and mildly fla-

particularly well, but tastes so good it

fort. Makes an even better pie than

vored when cooked.

won’t last long anyway. Quite sweet,

pumpkin. Green-blue skins with deep

moderately moist flesh.

orange flesh.

Red Kuri

Spaghetti

Sugar Pumpkin

Tear-drop shaped fruits with vibrant

A pale yellow-skinned, yellow-fleshed

Small, but typical in appearance,

red skin, deep orange, sweet flesh

squash with the unique characteristic

pumpkin that has thick walled

great for pies. Perfect for roasting

of being able to be pulled apart into

flesh. Sweet, moist, and useful in

and pureeing.

spaghetti-like strands. Not a good stor-

many applications, including soups,

age squash, but very versatile in the

pies, and stews.

2 ounces mushroom stock 2 ounces heavy cream

DUMPLING DIRECTIONS

1-2 kale leaves, sliced thinly

1. Preheat oven to 400° F. Clean and slice squash into 1 inch wedges. Toss squash with oil. Season with salt and pepper. Place on baking sheet. Roast for 15 minutes. Flip the squash and roast for another 15 minutes or until tender. Remove from oven and let cool briefly. Smash or puree squash. 2. Boil a large pot of water and clean a work space. Make a well in the squash and crack two eggs in it. Lay flour around the squash. Sprinkle salt over all. Whisk the eggs, slowly pulling in the squash and then the flour until a soft dough has formed. Knead for 1 minute. 3. Divide the dough in half. Cover one half in plastic wrap and roll the other into a long rope. Cut the rope into 1 inch cubes. Repeat the process with the remaining dough. Add to boiling water while gently stirring. Remove with slotted spoon when they float to the top.

Parsley, chopped Sage, chopped Chives, chopped Toasted hickory nuts (Optional) Salt and pepper to taste

SAUCE DIRECTIONS 1. Heat a sauce pan over medium-high heat with butter and olive oil. Brown the mushrooms. Add the shallot and cook for 2 minutes. 2. Deglaze with wine and reduce until almost gone. Add the mushroom stock and reduce by half. Then add the cream and bring to a simmer. 3. Toss in the kale ribbons and fresh herbs and cook until tender. 4. Serve over hot dumplings and garnish with toasted hickory nuts and/or grated cheese.

kitchen with very limited sweetness.

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Thanksgiving

Mushroom Stuffing Anthony Scolero, 111 Bistro SERVES 8

INGREDIENTS 1 loaf of bread, dried and cubed 1 small onion, diced 5 cups chicken stock

Lion’s Mane

Oyster

½ ounces sage, chopped

Shaggy appearance with white to yellow coloring. Very

A commonly cultivated variety coming in many colors-

¼ ounces rosemary, chopped

delicate flavor often said to resemble lobster or crab. Best

blue, tan, yellow, pink- are found in clusters. Wonderful

1 cup lion's mane mushrooms, chopped

if not overly fussed with. Sautéing in butter is straightfor-

in sautéed dishes, which enhance their somewhat delicate

1 cup shiitake mushrooms, chopped

ward and delicious.

flavor. Flesh is pleasingly springy.

Pioppino

Shiitake

Long-stemmed, clustering fruits with a chestnut colored

Most commonly found dried, they are a real treat when

cap. Remove the tough bottoms of the stems (but not

fresh. Their firm, meaty texture holds up well to long cook-

the entire stem) and simmer in soups or sauté in butter

ing in stews and braises. Soaking dried shiitakes makes for

or sesame oil.

a rich and flavorful cooking liquid, but be sure to filter out

1 cup pioppino mushrooms, chopped ½ cup butter 4 cloves garlic, minced

DIRECTIONS 1. Sautee the onions and mushrooms with the butter and garlic over medium heat. 2. Cook until caramelized and nicely browned. 3. Add the herbs and fold in, and cook for a minute more. 4. Mix sautéed ingredients with the bread cubes.

5. Return the pan to the stove, add the stock and scrape up the brown bits. 6. Add to bread mixture. 7. Place stuffing in baking dish, and bake, covered, at 350 F until hot and stock is absorbed.

any grit before using.

Mushrooms

With their rich, earthy flavors, interesting shapes, muted colors, and varied textures mushrooms can find a way

to be used in nearly any application. Mushrooms pair well with pasta, thyme, rosemary, parsley, wine, alliums, eggs, sour cream, butter, and chevre.

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Thanksgiving

Herbs & Aromatics

Herbs and aromatics are the easiest way to punch up the flavor of even the simplest dishes. We’re lucky to have

multiple vendors growing both common and uncommon varieties that can add new dimensions to our kitchen adventures.

Celery

Fennel

Ginger

Celery found at local farms

It’s anise flavor is bright when

Fresh ginger is bright and

Flat-leaf (aka Italian) Parsley

and farmers’ markets is a

raw and its crisp texture is a

floral, with less spicy af-

Sharp and bright, parsley

different creature than that

welcome addition to salads.

ter-taste than after it is

infuses stocks and sauces

found in the produce aisle

Fennel mellows with cook-

cured and stored. The skins

with depth of flavor. Al-

at the grocery store. It is

ing, and adds an unexpected

are tender, needing only

though often overlooked

typically a darker green, as

zip when used in soup bases,

a good scrubbing instead

as a ‘garnish’ it can easily

many smaller scale farms

gratins, and tomato sauces.

of peeling. Excellent with

be the most nutritious item

do not “blanche” the cel-

The fronds are a natural ad-

nearly every vegetable. If

on the plate. Wonderful as

ery stalks. Its flavor is very

dition to fish dishes, and also

using to replace dried gin-

a primary ingredient in sal-

robust, and can even stand

make a great filler in flower

ger, increase by three times

ads throughout the chang-

as a side dish on its own.

arrangements.

to start.

ing seasons.

Fennel & Apple Salad Beth Knorr, Countryside Conservancy SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS 3 medium fennel bulbs 3 tart apples, peeled, cored, and sliced ½ cup toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped Lemon juice Walnut oil (or olive oil)

DIRECTIONS

Rosemary

Sage

Thyme

Turmeric

Sharp and piney, its bold

Sage has a wider range than

Thyme is used worldwide

The little darling of the

flavor pairs well with roasts,

its firm association with

because of its versatility.

health world right now,

particularly lamb, as well

stuffing would imply. Whole

Whole stems can be added

turmeric has an astringent,

as beans and potatoes. Pull

leaves sautéed in butter are

to simmering sauces and

slightly bitter flavor that

leaves from stems and fine-

a wonderfully crisp addition

stews, or pluck the leaves

can be off-putting on its

ly chop as part of rubs or

of texture to smooth soups,

and chop (or not- they’re

own, but enhances other

pastes, or use long stems

such as winter squash soup,

usually small enough not

spices when paired. It adds

as skewers for a subtler im-

which sage has a strong af-

to bother) to add to sautés

a warmth and depth to

parting of flavor.

finity for.

and roasts.

dishes, particularly curries.

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1. Remove stems from fennel bulbs, quarter and remove the tough core. Thinly slice across the width of the bulbs. 2. Toss the apple slices and fennel slices in a bowl. Toss with lemon juice to taste, and just enough oil for a thin coating. Season with salt and pepper and toss thoroughly. Sprinkle with toasted almonds.

Thanksgiving

Pilgrim’s Punch

Fruit

Ohio’s climate means our range of fruits in the winter are limited. Luckily, our farmers have excellent storage fa-

cilities with climate control, which allows us to have access to a variety of fresh, crisp apples throughout the winter. Well over three dozen varieties of apples are grown in Northeast Ohio, some with exceptionally short seasons. Apple harvests

Jon Benedict, Edible Cleveland MAKES ONE TALL DRINK

typically begin in July and continue through October, with storage extending the crop nearly year-round.

INGREDIENTS 1½ ounce gin

APPLES

½ ounce pear liqueur (crème de poire) ½ ounce lemon juice ¼ ounce elderflower liqueur (such as St. Germain) 1 bar spoon pureed fresh pears Tonic water

DIRECTIONS Gala

Jonathan

Jonagold

Yellow and red skinned fruit that is

A tart apple having red skin with green

A cross between Golden Delicious

crisp and sweet. Often a smaller apple

striations. Delicious for fresh eating,

and Jonathan, it’s a sweet apple

perfect for little hands. Good for sauc-

with a crisp and juicy flesh. Also good

with a hint of tartness. A wonderful

ing and eating.

for baking, pies, and saucing. It is an

all-purpose apple for pies, eating,

antique variety from the 1820s.

sauces, and baking.

1. In a cocktail shaker, combine ice with all ingredients except tonic water, and shake. Double strain into a pint glass filled with ice cubes, and fill with tonic water. Enjoy!

PEARS

McIntosh

Mollie’s Delicious

Mutsu (aka Crispin)

Bartlett

Bosc

Quince

Greenish fruits with a strong red

A sweet-tart apple with red skin

Very crisp, juicy, large fruits with

Green skinned fruits that ripen to

Brown skinned fruits that remain

Not commonly found outside of

blush, they are tart and sweet and

and a yellowish flesh, it’s somewhat

yellow-green skin. Mutsu apples are

yellow. Very sweet, very soft and

firm even when ripe. Strong vanilla

farmers’ markets and pick your own

achieve a soft texture when baked.

lumpy appearance makes it a bit of a

good for all uses—eating, baking,

juicy fruits when ripe. They are

and honey notes are apparent in this

orchards, quince looks like a bright

curiosity at first. Great for fresh eat-

saucing, and canning.

wonderful for fresh eating, and are

variety. The firm flesh lends itself to

yellow pear when ripe, but is too as-

traditionally known as the “canning

baking and poaching, as well as fresh

tringent to eat without cooking. Once

pear.” Perfect for putting up to en-

eating, and are less sweet than the

cooked, it is terrific in pies and tarts,

joy throughout the winter.

Bartlett variety.

and is most famous for being the pri-

ing, cooking, and canning.

mary ingredient in membrillo, the firm, jelly-like paste paired with cheese.

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CONTRIBUTORS Ben Bebenroth is proprietor of Spice Catering, Spice Kitchen and Bar, and Spice Acres farm. Ben has spent his career partnering with local producers to balance consumer demand with seasonal offerings, making him a well-respected local food authority. To Ben, buying local is all about supporting independent growers who are strong stewards of our land. Jon Benedict, Editor of and cocktail contributor to Edible Cleveland, is an avid, if amateur, home cook, fortunate to have a family with refined palates and significant patience. In his professional career he assists organizations enhance their public images and further their strategic goals. Dante D’Avello is chef/owner of Totally Cooked, Inc. (or as he likes to say, Head Chef and Grand Poo-Bah). Dante has been in the catering business for over 20 years, providing exceptional catering and hospitality services to Northeast Ohio since 1998 from his base in Cuyahoga Falls. Chef Brian Doyle’s philosophy in the kitchen is to “cook from the heart with care and flair.” He is recognized as one of Cleveland’s premier chefs with his gluten free restaurant Café Avalaun in Warrensville Heights. His best advice? “Just Eat Real Food.” Douglas Katz is owner and executive chef of fire food and drink in Shaker Square, owner of The Katz Club Diner in Cleveland Heights, Chef/Partner of Provenance, Provenance Cafe, and Catering By Provenance at the Cleveland Museum of Art, and owner of Fire Spice Company. Katz is widely celebrated for his unwavering support of local farmers and food artisans. Beth Knorr is a widely respected professional with many years of experience in the sustainable agriculture, local food, and non-profit arenas. Her experience with organic vegetable farming, farmers’ market management, policy work, and small, local food business ownership make her a well-recognized participant in Northeast Ohio’s local food system. James Kurtz is owner and creative director at KURTZ. He's worked with worldwide brands and licenses, such as Little Tikes, Disney,

Decorations

GM, Foundations, Hedstrom, and Hoover, as well as small local businesses. James is a committed farmers’ market regular, so you may have seen him at Howe Meadow any given Saturday morning with his partner, Laura, and sons, Quaden, Caius, and Kallum.

The ambiance of our holiday meals is of-

mercial production of flowers, gourds, corn stalks and

Erin Molnar, Countryside’s own Farmers’ Market Manager, is enthusiastic about using her farming experience, in-depth

ten an important finishing touch to the care and love

similar touches uses the same chemicals and unsustain-

knowledge of food culture, and love of learning to grow the markets and incubate new businesses. Her flair for educating

that we pour into the food we share. Many peo-

able methods that we strive to avoid in our food. While

people about local food has inspired many market-goers and others to embrace it with gusto. Also, she makes a mean cortado.

ple like to incorporate natural elements into their ta-

we may not be consuming these crops, the impact on

ble settings. Offhand it may seem that these details

the environment and farm workers is the same. Much

require less attention to sourcing, but some of the impli-

as with our food and desire for taste, we needn’t sacri-

cations that drive us to source our food locally should

fice our aesthetic and desire for beauty; there are many

also be considered for our decorations. Large scale com-

sustainable ways to add attractive touches to our tables.

Heidi Robb is an Ohio-based, globally employed, freelance print and motion food stylist and recipe developer. Self-taught, her culinary skills were born in her mother’s home, nurtured at her Nana’s side, pushed in the kitchens of fine Cleveland restaurants, stretched as a luxury caterer and personal chef, and finessed on the sets of major New York studio productions. Larkin Rogers is a Culinary Institute of America trained chef, who loves to explore culinary history. Chef Larkin was chef/ owner of a highly acclaimed, award winning restaurant in England; a personal chef and caterer; and a culinary instructor at

Foraging

Winter Squash

Dried Flowers

The colors of fall are naturally beau-

These gorgeous and diverse spec-

Local farms that specialize in flowers

tiful and rich. Cut branches from

imens can add the perfect visual

often grow specific varieties that dry

trees throughout the fall, as the

element to your table. Better yet, they

well to create lasting arrangements.

quality, and locally sourced ingredients. His unique view of food, and highly regarded talents in the kitchen, have landed him

colors change, and preserve them

keep well. Pick up a few extra at the

Colors that were brilliant when fresh,

features in Cleveland Magazine and Akron Life Magazine, as well as stints cooking at the James Beard Foundation.

in a glycerin-solution to create a

market before Thanksgiving for your

deepen and mute with drying, bring-

Shane Wynn is an editorial and fine art photographer specializing in all things local. She contributes to 10 local publications, is the business

colorful and stunning arrangement of

table and use them over the weeks

ing them into the rich, warm color

owner of Shane Wynn Studio and pursues art whenever possible. She is a 2016 Akron Art Prize winner and is currently completing a series

diverse leaves.

after the meal.

palate of late autumn.

for the 2015 Knight Arts Challenge while a finalist in the 2016 challenge. She regularly contributes to Edible Cleveland Magazine.

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Western Reserve School of Cooking; whose talents are now showcased at Conservancy for Cuyahoga Valley National Park. Anthony Scolero is the Chef/Owner at 111 Bistro in Medina. Anthony serves a seasonally driven menu with a focus on

Thanksgiving

With Generous Support From

The purpose of Countryside Conservancy is to connect people, food, and land by increasing public awareness of how food and farming impact personal, community, and environmental health, and by inspiring personal commitment to building a resilient, sustainable food culture. We pursue our purpose across Northeast Ohio through numerous regional collaborations and a unique partnership with Cuyahoga Valley National Park.