King at the Back of the Hill Anthology by County Longford Arts Office

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two A collection of art and writing

Aoife Jinks, 9

Contents 4

Introduction: Ann Gerety Smyth

The King and his Queen: Shelley Corcoran Secrets of the Hill: Eileen Moynihan

A Sense of Connection: Rose Moran

Drawing: Amy Chesire

The King with his Queen: Shelley Corcoran The Keeper: Thos Maher

The Skeleton: Adel Coleman

The King at the Back of the Hill: Sally Martin

Drawing: Jasmine Nic Raghaill

King Maine: Brendan Farrell Drawing: Jack Jetti

His Hands: Colin Dardis Drawing: Diana Asimes

Rí Máine: Saorlaith Ní Nualláin Drawing: Corey Duffy

Interview with Jimmy Leavy

Drawing: Joni Clarke

King Maine's Fort: Annette Corkery

King Maine: Laura Woods Hoban All in the Bones: Rose Byrne

Drawing: Faela Nic Roibin

Drawing: Máirtín Mac Gabhann

Drawing: Amy Nic Uidir Model: Conor Shanley

Drawing: Lily-May Smyth Drawing: Aoife Shanley Drawing: Diarmuid O'Brien

The last diary entry of the King: Máirtín Mac Gabhann

Archaeological investigations at the early medieval enclosure of Back of the Hill, Ardagh, Co. Longford: Adel Coleman The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

Introduction Creative Ardagh, in association with the Cruthú Arts Festival, would like to take this opportunity to thank County Longford Arts Officer, Fergus Kennedy, for his continued support in all of our creative and artistic endeavours. It is with the generosity of County Longford Arts Office that we are able to produce this piece of cultural history. This anthology is a mix of art, poetry and short stories by young and old, professional and amateur, local and international contributors along with factual pieces on the findings. The contributions are inspired by the history of the King and the Dig, not to mention the lost skeleton.

The Dig

Everybody knew there was a King at the Back of the Hill. He wasn't spoken of or discussed in great detail, but everybody knew. When Liam De Paor, a famous archaeologist and historian of the 1960's, came to Ardagh to excavate the site at The Back of the Hill the locals were not surprised that a skeleton was found. At first it was thought it was the skeleton of a child, but the locals said it was the King. On further investigation it was found to be a skeleton of a man who was probably of noble birth due to the care that was taken with his burial. It is not proven that this skeleton is a king but the stories still remain, and whether he is or he isn't he is celebrated as such. The 1967 dig itself was of huge importance to the area and of historical significance to the country. Many locals assisted in the excavation and articles were written for local, national and international publications. However, the findings, including the skeleton and a brooch among other items, remained in storage and the results were not written up until Adel Coleman, archaeologist with UCC, undertook this work in preparation for her Masters Degree. Many of the artifacts were temporarily on display in Longford Library when Adel gave a lecture on the findings at the invitation of Longford Historical Society. Thanks to her generosity and that of our own Longford Leader from 1967 Heritage Officer, Máiréad Ní Chonghaile and Archivist, Martin -->

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

Morris, we have added her information posters on the findings to the exhibition in Ardagh Heritage and Creativity Centre.

Who is The King at the Back of the Hill?

Ardagh was of significant importance since ancient times. It was a location for many an important person and is mentioned in The Annals of Ireland. Ancient texts mention a King Maine of South Teabtha residing in Ardagh. King Maine was brother of King Caibre of North Teabtha and King Laoghaire who allowed St. Patrick through Meath to spread his faith. These men were sons of Niall of the Nine Hostages. Locally, it is widely accepted that the body found was that of King Maine and the location of the dig is locally known as 'King Man's Fort' or 'The Fort of Maine'. In the ancient writings it states that Maine welcomed St. Patrick and it was he who gave permission for Patrick to establish a monastery and leave his nephew Mel as bishop in Ardagh. Caibre, much like Laoghaire, was not as welcoming but unlike Laoghaire he did not allow Patrick in his area and rather turned his back on him and continued worshipping the Sun God. Caibre's sons were more politically aware and accepted Patrick's teachings, but it is said Caibre kept his back to Patrick at every meeting. Patrick is said to have stayed a while in Ardagh as the guest of King Maine and there is a story where he foresees that Maine's concubine is pregnant with Caibre's son's child.

The King is lost and found again

Unfortunately, during the long period of storage The King himself was lost. The skeleton could not be located until last month. Adel, who persisted in her search long after her Masters was obtained, determined to locate our ancestor, found him in a box, marked as a descendant of Niall of the Nine Hostages. We are delighted with this timely find before this year's Domhnach na bhFraocháin on Brí Leith, (Bilberry Sunday) Sunday 30th July, 2017 and the launch of this anthology.

Domhnach na bhFraocháin on Brí Leith (Bilberry Sunday)

In ancient times people gathered on Brí Léith (Ardagh Mountain) to collect bilberries for the High King’s Lughnasa feast. Gan dabht, our King and his tribe took part in this tradition every year on the last Sunday of July as it continued until the mid 1960s. Creative Ardagh and Brendan Farrell of Ardagh EcoGardens got together to revive the tradition in July 2012. This local, traditional walk usually starts from 11am at Ardagh GAA pitch with Brendan Farrell as our guide, followed by scones and tea at Ardagh Heritage and Creativity Centre and an interesting guest. We are delighted to say that the number of locals and visitors to the area attending is increasing yearly. Ann Gerety Smyth The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

The King and his Queen by Shelley Corcoran

Secrets of the Hill He lay at the Back of the Hill For hundreds of years And should lie there still Maine by local lore 'twas said A noble king buried In his earthen bed Friend of St. Patrick and St. Mel Who in his kingdom Allowed them to dwell Not like King Cabre his brother Who rejected their message To worship another Both sons of the famous Niall Who brought Patrick to Ireland To stay awhile

His deep sleep was disturbed By Liam De Paor When unearthed During an historical excavation Causing local awe and Proud celebration. Stored away 50 years ago But where is he now? Nobody knows Was it the legendary King Maine Or will the secret In the box remain? He lay at the Back of the Hill For hundreds of years And should lie there still. Eileen Moynihan

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

A Sense of Connection At the foot of the mountain And back of the hill A longing in childhood to Climb and sit still near the Ring forts of fairies with Leprechaun lore, hear the Tap on the last where the Bilberries grow Ardagh, the high field, Nearest hill to the homes Of Pakie and Willie and Eliza Jane, from their Stone-patterned gables With welcoming door, we Heard stories of wee-folk Of bean-sidhe and more

Of note. King Maine in Tradition, son of Niall the Great, occupied a site Known as King Man's Fort, Met with Saint Patrick at The fort of his name and Was buried, it is held at Back of the Hill This longing to dig deep To climb and explore To rummage, research Excavate adult lore Gives a sense of connection To more than we know On this Royal highway Where the bilberries grow Rose Moran

Excavations led by Liam De Paor at the ring forts of Breany and the Fort of Maine reveal skeleton Remains of someone Renowned, is it Maine, Man or Maun of this Royal high mound? Brooches and bracelets In part were discovered Treasures reviewed by Adel and recorded Bronze pins, and ear scoop A bone comb and ring Suggest wealth of the Occupants and a centre

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

Amy Chesire, 9

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

The Keeper

The King with his Queen by Shelley Corcoran

Maine, King of your people, Go to them and pray together With the Holy One, Patricius. He has travelled far Bringing the Good News. He rests in the Sacred Place With the haunted survivors Of the past, he listens, For they seek something new. An Almighty God, A Heavenly King. A story captures them when told, Jesus of Nazareth, the Messiah. Something has happened, they know The words this Holy man speaks Are true, there is one Almighty God. A God of all things. Thos Maher

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Back of the Hill supine skeleton Source: National Monuments Service

A westâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;east orientated supine burial was identified in the northeast sector of the enclosure in a burial pit measuring approximately 2m by 1m and 1m deep. Following the removal of three large sub-surface slabs and the excavation of what was expected to be a waste pit, the top of a skull was identified. The discovery was made late in the evening and the following day excavation focused on the burial. At first it was thought to be that of a child, however further investigation revealed that the individual had developed teeth and was likely to be middle-aged male. Interestingly, the personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s second and third molars on the left hand side show significant wear, possibly related to dominant chewing on that side of their mouth. This could indeed be due to a tooth ache or other issue! To find out more about the life-history of the Back of the Hill skeleton, an Osteoarchaeologist will be examining the remains and will be able to tell us their sex, age, state of health and perhaps even their cause of death. Adel Coleman pers. comm, 2017

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

The King at the Back of the Hill He lay undisturbed for such a long time At the Back of the Hill in Ardagh When along came Archaeologist and historian Liam de Paor and unearthed a legend, a story of old A man of nobility, a skeleton, maybe even a king Our legend was labelled and packed up well And sent to Dublin's fair city for safe keeping where, once again he lay buried, forgotten only this time somewhere on a dusty shelf. Now many years passed and went Before our legend was once again discovered When Adel Coleman from Cork, a student of archaeology Needed a case study from which she could finish her degree But something strange and amazing, was at work on that particular day. Because Adel chose Ardagh in Longford and the legend of the man of nobility However this story and legend will never be over and the mystery still lives on because the skeleton of our noble man is missing nowhere to be found Adel's search continues for this elusive man but no matter what happens in the future, Ardagh will now and forever have its legend and story of The King at The Back of the Hill. Sally Martin Since our submission deadline we received exciting news from Adel that the skeleton has been located. She tells us that in the coming weeks an osteoarchaeologist will be examining the human remains and will be able to tell us a lot about the individual such as their age, state of health and perhaps their cause of death. They might also be able to tell us about the kind of life the individual led. The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

Jasmine Nic Raghaill, 9

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

King Maine King Maine, Son of Niall You lived and loved this land of ours Fertile fields and shady bowers Mossy mounds and marshy bogs Reedy streams through oak and alder King Maine, Son of Niall When you lived, you held the fort Carried our cares upon your back Guarded us on our meandering paths Defended our lands from attack Jack Jetti, 8

King Maine, Son of Niall We laid you out as best we could Placed you in a hewn out trunk With all our treasures by your side You rested peacefully in your native wood King Maine, Son of Niall Seasons passed and young grew old And still the story is often told Our King is laid at the Back of the Hill His spirit and culture is with us still King Maine, Son of Niall We think of you in Ardagh soil We feel you in the meadow sweet And see you in the holly blue That flutters across our sacred way As we pick your fruits upon BrĂ Leith Brendan Farrell

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His Hands

King Maine receiving baptism from St. Patrick He is grateful for his hands and is allowed to kiss them sweetly. Knowing hands, slips of skin over modelled clay, so ice smooth yet warming. They are classically painted hands, of a healer, a performer, a baker. The bone structure is the shared dreams of an anatomist and an architect, each finger a crane, a tower. In the river, Maine feels a hundred different varieties of weight lifting off him, relieves a feather, a vice, a broadsword, a kingdom. He is grateful for his hands and is allowed to kiss them sweetly; the feeling is as gentle and urgent as prayer. Colin Dardis

Diana Asimes, 9

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Corey Duffy, 9

Rí Máine

Rí Máine, an rí ar chúl an chnoic, A chónaigh in Ard Achadh, Longfort, fadó, De shliocht uasal Mhuintir Uí Néill, Mac le Niall Noígíallach, Ard Rí na hÉireann. Féach an chloch ar thaobh an bhóthair, Rian ghlúine Phádraig i láthair an rí, É ag impí ar Mháine a chaoinchead, Creideamh na Críostaíochta a scaipeadh. Rí Máine, a chuir fáilte roimh Naomh Pádraig, An naomh a bhunaigh mainistir in Ard Achadh, Ach, ba é Rí Caibre, deartháir Mháine, A bhreathnaigh ar Phádraig le hamhras. Mel, nia Phádraig, easpag Ard Achadh, Chas Caibre a dhroim orthu, Déithe ársa á n-adhradh aige, Dia na Gréine ina measc. Rí Máine, an rí ar chúl an chnoic, A chreatlach go ciúin ann ó aois go haois, Dún Uí Mháine, ainm stairiúil in onóir an rí, A chónaigh in Ard Achadh, Longfort, fadó. Saorlaith Ní Nualláin The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

The workmen who were involved in the excavations at Back of the Hill during the visit of Rev. Dr. C. Daly D.D, Bishop of Ardagh (The Longford News 1967, 4). From left to right: Tom Keenan, John M. Keegan (landowner in 1967), John Farrell, Paddy Owens, Tom McDermott, Rev. Daly, Micheál Keegan (current landownder), Jas. McDermott, James Regan, James Leavy, and Tony Harper.

Interview with Jimmy Leavy who took part in the dig at the Back of the Hill How did you get involved? What did you have to do? The first I heard about the Back of the Hill was from Mel Lyons. I knew there was a fort there because my mother lived next door to it, she was Hughes. I was talking to Mel one day and he said “Why don't you come over and we'll talk about it. They are looking for people to go on this job.” I went over on Monday morning and we met them all with Liam de Paor and I havin' a car at the time, a 57 Opel Kadet, I used to drive them to work every morning. Liam de Paor was staying in Lyons, over the pub, Paddy's pub, and I brought them from there every morning and I'd bring them back. Sometimes Cillian was there too, the son, Cillain de Paor. He was only a gosun, 10 or 12, national school age. So that was it then, different people started arriving. I knew them all like, most of them were local, about 12 or 14 of them. Jimmy McDermott was a neighbour of Michéal's, at the fort. And so he outlined what our jobs were and we all had wheelbarrows and -->

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

shovels and spades and all these student girls and fellas, archaeologists, some of them from Scotland I think weren't they? They were digging and we'd be digging little sections, it was cut out like a cake, in sections and we'd be looking and he would mark with nails where there was different clay. He had it all marked. Everyone that was there got a nickname. There was one man, he was Tom Giurnan from up the mountain direction was christened McGoey for no reason, he went by McGoey and no other and everyone had nicknames, I don't know the rest of them, we all had nicknames anyway. Friday evening, I think it was when they found this skull. The three stones were there one after the other but we were all waiting to see what was under that, everyone, mad for him to open this section. It was a Friday evening we got to it anyway, it wouldn't happen nowadays, we went off, the skeleton was left there and everyone went home. Were the stones buried? There was stones here, there and there on the ground, overground and they're gone now as well. The skeleton was left open, left there, it wouldn't happen like now and then the people, everyone came, in and across, droves of people to see it. I remember the bishop coming, he was only after being ordained, Bishop Daly. He came, and then there was professors from Galway and all over Ireland coming. We'd be meeting all these professors, Waldron, he was from Galway, he was a massive singer. He used to sing with us in the pub on a Sunday night. The party was every Sunday night, all gathered in Lyons and a fantastic party was had. This Waldron was a fantastic singer. Did you work on any of the other digs in Ardagh? After about two months, I was, no, first of all we were paid every two weeks. I think it was 34 pound and the second week, the week you didn't get paid you could get a sub of a fiver. Anyone who wanted money got a fiver, that's all you'd get, you wouldn't get any more. Then after that, myself and Jimmy McDermott and Paddy Kiernan and Frank Greene was sent to Ardagh to the church and we done that then and it was done St. Mel's Cathedral was also the very same like an X, you took excavated by Liam de Paor out a section here. They sectioned it up and we stripped all from Noone's down, that was all shrub or ould grass and about six or eight inches down there was people buried, all in a line the whole way down. They weren't down eight inches, I think a foot The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

now, there were just, someone said it was during the black plague that, there was some plague and the people weren't able to bury them deep, and there was childer and everything, heads left, oh, that whole square, you know where, as you go up there, that was all a graveyard, from Noone's down as far as the Cathedral. I don't know whether it was the famine or what it was, there was graves everywhere. So we went down the back and we opened a grave and whatever priest was in Ardagh came down and we brought all the remains and we buried them all down at the back of the church, the Cathedral, outside the four walls. They're buried out there. That was that, then when Liam De Paor was leaving we all gave 10 shillings a piece and we got Mel Lyons to buy a book for him, it was some history book, a rare one. The presentation was made in Lyons the night before he left by John Michael Keegan, Michéal's father. That's as much as I can tell ya. What about the Crozier, were you there when it was found? The Crozier was found the year before that, but when we were doing that excavating up there in Ardagh that was done over a whole week, we stripped all that and we went round lifting them, you wouldn't do it now, going with an arm and skulls in your hands. What about the Breany dig? I went to Breany then for a short time after but there was nothing in Breany, Breany wasn't as good. I didn't stay I got a job in Longford. There was no life in Breany, no finds, the finds didn't seem to be as good, but there was great sport and craic with all these foreign lads, lads from Scotland and they had names on the wheelbarrows. One girl there was Catherine Ross, and ye often heard about Jim Sweeney? Jim used to be always talking about Catherine Ross and we'd tell him “oh, Catherine Ross, we were talking to her last night”. Jim has sort of a notion about her. Is there anything else now? Jimmy Courtney is alive, Jimmy McDermott, Jimmy Madden, Michéal Keegan and meself, that's the five people that are left from 1967, a lot have passed on to their eternal reward, or to The King. It's an awful pity ye can't get to it, make a way to it, talk nice to Michéal and Tom Bannon, sure it's in the interest of the Tidy Towns.

Adel Coleman pictured with three of the men who worked on the dig: Jimmy McDermott, Jimmy Leavy and Jimmy Madden at the launch of the Back of the Hill exhibition in Ardagh Heritage and Creativity Centre in March 2017.

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Joni Clarke, 9 The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

Work in progress: King Maine's Fort Annette Corkery

The King at the Back of the Hill Ireland's Ancient East: High Kings and Heroes

Life in the Iron Age Fort: Weaving Hear about King Maine, be inspired by the finds of the dig and create an art piece by weaving various fibres. Alternatively use clay and sticks to create a model of the fort.

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

As part of our history and heritage programmes for Ireland's Ancient East, workshops are available to schools and groups on the King at the Back of the Hill. Contact us for more details.

King Maine by Laura Woods Hoban

All in the bones

Mr. Sullivan stepped into his classroom a full hour before his sixth class pupils were due in. He removed his well-worn tweed jacket from his wiry frame and rolled up his shirt sleeves. He set up an old style projector and screen that was tucked away in a corner. He pushed back the desks and arranged the chairs in a semi-circle a few feet back from the white screen. He left the room. Five minutes later he returned, struggling with an anatomical skeleton. He placed it down near the doorway. He smiled. He knew the skeleton would be the first thing the boys would see on entering. While admiring his handiwork, there was a sharp rap on the door and Alana Morris breezed in. She taught second and third class in the room next door. “Where did you dig him up?” Alana ran a slender finger down the skeleton’s rib cage. “You’re mad.” The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

“I’m going to get these boys interested in King Maine one way or another. Just telling them isn’t getting through. I’m using it as a visual aid. What do you think?” “I think old King Maine’s looking pretty healthy for his age,” she grinned. “Anyway, King Maine there is competing with Facebook and football. You’re so old school Gerry. Why not use a computerised version?” “No thanks. I’ll stick to my own methods,” he said. “You need to ramp things up. Anyway, let’s head to the staff room for coffee. I have some suggestions for the school outing. I need your opinion.” “Sure what would I know? I’m so out of touch.” “Ah, you know what I mean. It’s a struggle to keep their attention at this stage. C’mon, before our unruly charges arrive,” she smiled. “I’ll follow you down in a minute, just finished here,” he said. Alana swanned out the door singing, “The thigh bone's connected to the knee bone….” He half smiled. Alana had it all ahead of her. His teaching days were nearing an end. He sighed. But, as usual, he was unwavering in his efforts to engage the boys in learning. And this was their final history project before leaving for secondary school. He turned on the projector and brought the first image up on the screen, “The Bone Comb”. He then arranged his notes neatly on the desk. He studied the lay-out of his classroom. Satisfied, he headed for coffee. He wasn’t to know two of his usually very predictable students would arrive early. A skinny, pasty-skinned boy, Jack Kennedy was the first one in. Eyes glued to his phone, he stumbled straight into the skeleton, rattling the bones loudly. He dropped his phone. His friend, the class messer, “Dubser” Murray sauntered in behind him. “Yeh big dope Kennedy! Did yeh not see oul’ bones there?” Dubser Murray asked. “Missed me penalty over the yoke! What is it?” asked Jack as he put his phone back together. “Are yeh tick? It’s a skeleton.” “I know that…but where did it come from?” “Sullivan obviously. Delighted now Ma made me come in early. Here, I have a deadly idea.” “Better be good seeing as you dragged me in early with ye.” Jack answered. “C’mon, you grab him by the feet; I’ll take him by the head. Hurry, yeh sap, before Sullivan comes back.” Jack grinned and between the pair of them, they swiftly removed the skeleton from the room. Mr. Sullivan whistled a tune as he headed into his classroom. On entering, he immediately noticed the skeleton was gone. He looked around; no students in yet. He glanced at his watch, 8:40am. The class swot, George, always came in

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around 8:50am. He paced the length of the room a few times. Then, he sat down and rang Alana. At 8:50am. George slouched in. He adjusted his glasses throwing a questioning look at Mr. Sullivan. “Sit down, George. We’re doing things a little different today.” “Where will I sit Sir?” “Anywhere except those two seats in the front.” Mr. Sullivan pointed to the two chairs in the centre of the front row. They both had reserved signs on them. George squinted at the signs.

Faela Nic Roibin, 9 “Is there someone important coming?” “Let’s just say… they have a major role to play in this morning’s lesson.” Mr. Sullivan tipped his nose. “But keep that to yourself.” George nodded and dutifully sat down next to a reserved seat. Mr. Sullivan kept a serious expression and walked down near where the skeleton had been. One by one the rest of his pupils trickled in. He instructed them to sit anywhere except the reserved seats. He was happy to let the boys chat amongst themselves. George seemed unusually popular this morning as a few of them honed in on his hushed conversation. True to form, at 9:15am Jack Kennedy and Dubser Molly strolled in. They avoided Mr. Sullivan and didn’t blink an eyelid at the rearranged classroom. The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

Their first mistake, thought Mr. Sullivan. “Late again boys? What was it this morning Jack,” “Eh…slept it out.” “And you Dubser?” “Ma made me eat me breakfast. Said I looked a bit bony,” he grinned. All the boys laughed but Dubser and Jack kept a straight face. Mr. Sullivan raised an eyebrow. “Get up earlier in future. Take a seat; we’re all waiting on you.” They looked around for chairs. The only vacant seats were the two up front. The boys exchanged glances, reluctant to sit right under Mr. Sullivan’s scrutiny. “Up you go. I kept the best seats for you.” The rest of the class stared to whisper to each other and shuffle around in. “He’s up to something,” whispered Dubser. Jack nodded. They ambled up to the front row expecting Mr. Sullivan to follow. But, he stayed where he was. The whispers grew louder. One by one the boys glanced around, but not Dubser, he boldly turned facing Sullivan. He flashed a defiant smile at him. Mr. Sullivan smiled back. Dubser frowned and turned away immediately telling Jack. Mr. Sullivan let a full five minutes pass before he took his stance near his desk. All the while, the anticipation in the room was growing. “Now boys, settle down, “ he waited. “Today we’re going to learn some more about our royal resident who lived in our village around the fifth century. Máirtín Mac Gabhann

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

Amy Nic Uidir, 9

Conor Shanley

George, what was his name?” “King Maine of South Teabtha.” “You told us all about him last week,“ moaned Dubser. “I did. So, stand up there Dubser and inform us what you’ve learned,” Mr. Sullivan said. Dubser stood up, “He was a king.” “Yes, and?” “Don’t know….probably wore a crown and sat on one of them chair thingys.” The boys laughed. “What else?” Dubser shrugged and went to sit down. “Stay standing. Jack, stand up and see if you can enlighten us.” Jack whispered into George’s ear. George whispered back and then Jack stood up. “He was rich.” “How do we know that?” asked Mr. Sullivan. Jack glanced at George, but George shrugged. “Anyone else?” Mr. Sullivan scanned the boys’ faces but none of them met his gaze. “Well, we have King Maine to thank for allowing Saint Patrick to spread God’s word and appoint Mel, Patrick’s nephew as bishop of Ardagh. Imagine, no Saint Patrick’s Day or parades without our regal resident,” Mr. Sullivan told them. But still, blank faces. He sighed and carried on. The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

“Sit down you two and pay attention. In 1967, our beautiful village had an important visitor. Liam De Paor, a well-known archaeologist and historian came down from Dublin...” “Up the Dubs,” roared Dubser. “One more interruption and you’re getting treble homework. Right?” “Only messing.” “Treble homework. Clear?” Dubser nodded. Mr. Sullivan explained how Liam De Paor had carried out an excavation in Ardagh Village. During the dig, he and his team unearthed some valuable objects at The Back of the Hill. One of them was 'The Bone Comb'. He pointed to the slide. “Can anyone guess what this Bone Comb was used for?” “Getting out the nits,” Dubser said. The classroom erupted into laughter. Jack gave Dubser a high five. “Settle down now boys.” Mr. Sullivan ordered and looked intently at the class messer. “Very good Dubser, it was.” Dubser and Jack’s grin faded and quietness settled in the room. Dubser sat forward studying the slide of the comb, disgusted he had gotton it right. Mr. Sullivan continued.

Surveying the site at the Back of the Hill in 2014

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

“It was also used to comb their hair. They liked to look good in those days too. But, the fine carving on this comb proves the owner would have been of considerable wealth.” “I said he was rich, “piped up Jack. “Indeed Jack, all the objects recovered in the dig prove we had some very rich residents living in our village.” Mr. Sullivan proceeded to show them some more slides grabbing the interest of a few of them. But the last slide, that of an aged skeleton, caught Dubser and Jack off guard. They exchanged whispers. Mr. Sullivan reached over to his phone on the desk. He pressed the 'send' button of a text that read, 'two minutes'. Leaving the slide up, he walked down to the spot where he had earlier placed the skeleton. Fifteen pair of eyes followed his journey. He waited a few seconds, amused at the stillness in the room for the second time this morning. Strike two against Dubser and Jack, he thought. “Now boys, that very same skeleton, although not proven, is believed by locals to be that of King Maine. Unfortunately, after he was put away in storage the skeleton went missing. But, I had a replica here this morning which actually contains two of King Maine’s bones… or so the story goes.” Dubser shifted around in his seat and Jack let out a loud sigh. “Regrettably, this too has mysteriously vanished. I hope whoever removed it realise the consequences.” “What happens to them?” asked Dubser. Strike three boys. “It is said that King Maine always pays a visit to anyone who interferes with the teaching of his story,” Mr Sullivan answered. The projector screen started to blink for a few seconds. Mr. Sullivan marched up front and adjusted some settings. He then stood in front of Dubser and Jack. They shrank back in their seats. Just then, there was a knock on the door. “George, answer that,” he said. George opened the door. “There’s no-one here Sir.” He was half way up the room when the lights flickered, followed by a loud tapping on the window. George gasped. “Lo…lo...look Sir,” he pointed to the window. “A skeleton’s hand!” Mr. Sullivan suppressed a smile but didn’t turn to look. “Sit down George. You’re imagining things.” But, sure enough, a bony hand, no flesh, knocked on the glass again, and then disappeared. Most of the boys let out a roar. Dubser fell off his chair and Jack looked most peculiar with a sudden flush to his cheeks. “It was Dubser’s idea, not mine,” he shouted. “You helped me, right, oul’ bones will pay you a visit as well yeh know,” Dubser roared back. He jumped to his feet. “You’re a rat!” Jack stood up and shoved Dubser. Before a fist fight could ensue, Mr. Sullivan The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

separated the two and commanded them to sit down. After a minimal amount of interrogation, the boys gave up the skeleton’s hiding place. It was behind the hedge of the school playground “But how did a bony hand knock at the window? “ George asked the teacher. “That was your imagination playing tricks George! Anyway, you two shake hands,” he ordered. The boys grudgingly shook hands. “Treble homework for both of you tonight! And, I’ll give you all until Monday morning to complete your projects on King Maine. No excuses. Now you pair, off you go and bring the missing skeleton back.” The two boys reluctantly slouched out the door. All the while Mr. Sullivan struggled to hold in a chuckle. The bell went for lunch and the class hurried out the door, all fired up about King Maine’s skeleton. The teacher was putting away his notes when Alana sauntered in. “You look pleased with yourself,” she said. “It couldn’t have gone better. After I stirred things up you knocking on the window was the final touch to make them confess,” he said. “I managed to knock on the door but then the principal was coming so I went back to my class. Then I got caught up with the children’s art project, sorry. ” “You didn’t bang on the window?” “No, why, what happened?” Mr. Sullivan frowned. He looked over at the window and then at the slide of the skeleton that was still on the screen. Just then, the school caretaker walked in. “Sorry about the lights, the fuses need changing. I’m fixing it now. By the way, Mr. Sullivan, is this yours? I found it earlier.” He held up a skeletons hand. “Em…maybe…where was it?” “A few feet from the school hedge. I knocked on your window with it but couldn’t get your attention.” Just as the teacher took the hand Dubser and Jack arrived with the skeleton. They kept their eyes cast downwards. Mr. Sullivan quickly put the hand in a drawer. He gestured to Alana and the caretaker to keep quiet. “His hand is gone, I swear it wasn’t us,” Dubser proclaimed without looking up. “It’s creepy,” Jack declared. “Oh, that’s a strange coincidence, isn’t it boys?” Both their heads jerked up. “Maybe it was the King knocking on the window?” said Jack. “Not at all boys. I wouldn’t worry about that or the rumours. Now off you go before you miss lunch.” Just as they reached the door, the teacher said, “But lads…do your best work on your history project. Just in case…we don’t want to upset King Maine now, do we?”

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The boys shook their heads vigorously before scurrying outside. Mr. Sullivan tried to attach the recovered hand back on its owner. His hearty laughter wobbling the bones of the skeletal structure. Rose Byrne

Lily-May Smyth, 5

Diarmuid O'Brien, 9 Aoife Shanley, 9

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

The last diary entry of the King of the Back of the Hill I am the King of the Back of the Hill, an Rí Chúl an Chnoic. Sometimes people say it in a mocking tone, as if to imply I am in hiding, but never to my face or if it is said it is said in such a way that any insult can be denied. But truth be known, the respect or fear of me is from my lineage and my ancestoral reputation. You see, I am a direct descendant of Niall of the Nine Hostages. 'Aren't we all?' I hear you say, yes, nearly all our blood lines were honoured or raped by the Great O'Neill but not all were legitimate sons who received a Kingdom to rule over like I did, nor can they claim direct lines of sight to other siblings' kingdoms, Granard and Uisneach being the nearest. If the Great O'Neill had lived another 10 years Ireland would have been unified under one great High King, our Ard Rí. The reason why I am the King of the Back of the Hill is simple and practical. While Ardagh Mountain, (Brí Leith) is the highest point, from a defensive point of view it has no water, contains poor rocky land with very little clay covering, while the second highest point has water close by, is surrounded by the best land of the vicinity. Since all my enemies were subdued and my nearest kingdoms were my kin, defensive positioning – i.e. the higher ground, was no longer the ultimate deciding factor for the location of my kingdom. My kingdom prospered with an abundant supply of cattle and wheat. Skilled metal workers laboured with the local ores which were mined from the nearby mines and they traded all over, bringing back skills and knowledge, even trading far away with the Viking settlements. My prized flint sharpening wheel was the envy of all the local kings and warriors. I witnessed the arrival of the new religion with Patrick from over the waves and the setting up of the bishop Mel and the nun Brigid on land I gave to them, the south west near the trading route. As my power faded, the new religion flourished and in the end I was the one, alone, seeking forgiveness for my family's past wrongs while Mel's family increased tenfold without ever having a descendant. I wonder what the Great O'Neill, Niall of the Nine Hostages would think. Máirtín Mac Gabhann

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

Micheál Keegan, Adel Coleman, Jimmy Leavy and Ann Gerety Smyth pictured in 2014 examining Micheál's newspapers from the time of the dig.

Archaeological investigations at the early medieval enclosure of Back of the Hill, Ardagh, Co. Longford Adel Coleman

INTRODUCTION

In 1967 Liam de Paor conducted three research excavations near Ardagh, Co. Longford. The sites selected for investigation included St. Mel’s Cathedral, in Ardagh village, and Breany, a substantial trivallate ringfort located in the townland of the same name. De Paor’s work in Longford also included the investigation of a large oval enclosure known as Back of the Hill (the Anglicisation of Ardnyskyne) situated approximately 1km northeast of the village of Ardagh. The village and its surrounding landscape have a rich history. For instance, documentary sources record that Ardagh was founded by St. Patrick and that Maine, son of Niall of the Nine Hostages, had his dún at Back of the Hill (McNamee 1954, 12) . As de Paor had a keen interest in the life of St Patrick, he focused much of his attention on a number of key monuments in this area of Ardagh. The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

BACKGROUND The historical background of Back of the Hill and the diocese of Ardagh is rich both in terms of its ecclesiastical and political history. Early references to the area include those in the Annals of Ulster and the Tripartite Life of Patrick (Tripartite Life). The latter tells of St. Patrick’s work in Ardagh, such as his founding of a church in the centre of the village. It is recorded that Patrick ‘left bishop Mél and bishop Melchu’ (McNamee 1954, 33) with various sources recording Mel to be ‘Bishop of Ardagh’. It has been speculated that the timber church identified during the 1967 excavations of St. Mel’s Cathedral, is the church that Patrick founded on his visit. The enclosure at Back of the Hill was known locally as ‘King Man’s Fort’ or the ‘Fort of Maine’. Local tradition determines that Maine, son of Niall the Great (Niall of the Nine Hostages) occupied the site. The fifth century saw the rise in power of the Uí Neíll sept with their leader, Niall the Great placed on the traditional list of the High Kings of Ireland. An entry in the Book of Lecan dated to 516 AD states that: Niall of the Nine Hostages divided his ancestral land among his sons… He gave to Maine son of Niall from Cruchain Feda in Crioch Bruin to Loch Ri mic Maireda, and also the chief protecting of all Ireland (Walsh 1942, 93). These ancestral lands, known as Teathbha, comparable to modern day Co. Longford in size, was divided between Niall’s son Cairbre, who ruled the northern portion of the territory, and Maine who ruled the south. Tripartite Life makes reference to Maine’s presence in Ardachad (Ardagh) stating that upon St. Patrick’s visit to the village ‘Mane son of Niall believed in him, and he baptised him’ (Stokes 1887, 87). Past commentators have speculated that Back of the Hill, which local tradition dictates was the dún of Maine, was the site of this meeting between St. Patrick and Maine (McNamee 1954, 31). We are told in the Tripartite Life that Maine brought his pregnant concubine before Patrick so he could bless the child, however when he put his hand out to bless the woman he said ‘I know not; God knoweth’. Despite his hesitation, he continued to bless the woman however he then told Maine that ‘There shall never be a king from thee’. The narrative explains that the child was that of the ‘accursed Coirpre’s grandson’. We are told that Maine then knelt to Patrick and made repentance (Stokes 1887, 87). Maine is recorded to have died in 440 AD and local tradition determines that he was buried in Back of the Hill, with this tradition likely to have been established or reinforced following the recovery of human remains from the site during the 1967 excavations. Later references to activity in the area include an Annals of Ulster entry dated 754 AD, which states that a battle took place at Back of the Hill, ‘in which many fell’ (Mac Airt and Mac Niocaill 1983, 209).

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

Figure 1. Aeriel view of Back of the Hill ( Source: Google Maps)

THE ENCLOSURE In August 2014 the author, with a team from The Department of Archaeology, University College Cork, conducted a detailed archaeological survey of the site. It established that the enclosure is located at the southeast end of a low ridge, orientated northeast to southwest. When approaching the site from the east it appears as a raised area defined by a low scarp. From the north, the bank is low and gently sloping. From the south and southwest the bank is steeper and more clearly defined. The scarp has been incorporated into a field boundary from southwest– west–northwest which continues to an earthwork to the immediate north of the enclosure.

THE EXCAVATION Excavations at Back of the Hill commenced in July 1967. The work was directed by Liam de Paor with the assistance of graduates from the University of Edinburgh and University College Dublin. A number of student trainees also worked on the project along with at least ten local workmen including Tom Keenan, John M. Keegan, John Farrell, Paddy Owens, Tom McDermott, Micheál Keegan, Jas. McDermott, James Regan, James Leavy and Tony Harper. The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

The excavation revealed that the site was encompassed by a one meter deep ditch, of which few excavation records survive. Originally, the enclosure was surrounded by a substantial bank, however it had collapsed over time. A range of features across the site including evidence of structures such as post holes and slot trenches were also identified. The structures located in the northeast sector of the enclosure, are likely to have been used for domestic purposes while those in the northwest may be associated with a craft area. A number of waste pits and a burial were also identified. Alluvine soil made for ideal conditions for the preservation of faunal remains with many animal bones and teeth recovered from across the site. Metallurgical slag and over 16 crucible fragments were also recovered from the northwest sector, indicating metal working took place there. The northern half of the enclosure produced the only substantial evidence of occupation, with up to four potential structures identified. The houses are circular in plan, post-built and measure up to 5m in diameter. Evidence suggests that the houses were re-built numerous times. The remains of hearths and food processing waste was found nearby.

The burial

A westâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;east orientated burial was identified in the northeast quadrant in a pit measuring approximately 2m by 1m, and 1m deep. Following the removal of a number of large stones from what was expected to be a waste pit, the top of a skull was identified. Initially, due to the small size of the skull, it was thought to be a childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s burial. Further excavation established that the remains were that of a possible adult male measuring approximately 5ft 4inches in height. The skeleton is extended, in a supine position with arms straight and hands positioned beside the hip. The burial appears to have been interred within a woodlined pit, indicated by dark staining and an arrangement of stones around it. These stones would have been used to hold the timbers in place. Given the historical background of the site, De Paor identified the burial as King Maineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. The human remains are currently under analysis and it is hoped to confirm the individual's sex, age and learn as much as possible about the life they led.

Adel examining the skeleton bones.

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

THE ARTEFACT ASSMEBLAGE The excavation produced a rich artefact assemblage indicating that the site was of considerable high status. Evidence for metalworking at Back of the Hill includes a quantity of metallurgical slag, a bronze ingot and pyramidal crucible fragments. A loom weight and spindle whorl represent textile working while butchery marks identified on the animal bones suggests that food processing was carried out. Two quernstone fragments are also recorded on the finds list and represent evidence for crop processing. A selection of iron nails were identified in the northwest quadrant, suggesting that woodworking took place there. Other artefacts recovered include a Class D1 decorated bone comb (Plate 2), a blue glass bracelet fragment (Plate 3), a small yellow dumbbell bead, a flint scraper and pottery. An assemblage of fossils (crinoid Plate 2: Class D1 bone comb (author) columnals), animal bones, a possible cross-and-ogham inscribed stone and modern objects were also found. The most significant artefacts discovered include a zoomorphic penannular brooch (Plate 4), a well-ornamented bracelet terminal (Plate 5), a toilet implement/ear scoop (Plate 6), a projecting ring-headed pin, a decorated ring pin (Plate 7) and a penannular pin. A ridge mount was also found. Ridge mounts are used in the construction of composite pieces of church metalwork, such as shrines. They are tubelike, made of copper-alloy and are found, for example, along the edges of box shrines. It is not uncommon for artefacts similar to those recovered at Back of the Hill to be identified at sites of an early medieval date, however what makes these finds so unique, is their quality. Plate 3: Blue glass bracelet The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017 35 fragment (author)

DISCUSSION The significant size of Back of the Hill, the high quality finds it produced, and its place in a rich ecclesiastical and political landscape all suggest that the enclosure was a high status site. The key indicator of status is the high quality metal finds recovered during the excavation. It is likely that these objects were produced on-site, as is evident from the remains of a possible workshop identified in the northwest area of the enclosure. The recovery of metallurgical slag, a bronze ingot and crucible fragments is further evidence that metal objects were being made on-site. Both ferrous and non-ferrous metalworking were practiced, which may indicate that numerous smiths worked there. During the early medieval period, the blacksmith held a respected place in society, with an honour-price equal to that of the lowest grade of noble. According to documentary sources, metalworkers were also linked to supernatural powers. References in early literary sources provide evidence of the employment of metalworkers by kings and those of high status; however metalworkers were free to move from territory to territory working for various patrons. The smith was also held in high Plate 4: Zoomorphic penannular pin regard by the church, who became a identified at Back of the Hill (author) wealthy patron (Comber 2004, 14).

Plate 6: Roman ear scoop/toilet implement (author)

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

Plate 5: Bracelet terminal from Back of the Hill (author)

The proximity of Back of the Hill to the significant ecclesiastical centre of Ardagh may suggest that the site has some connection to the church. From the mid-7th to the early 11th century AD the church was likely to have been organised along territorial lines, as was the case elsewhere in Europe. It is possible that the influence of St. Mel’s Cathedral in the centre of Ardagh would have been as extensive. References to Ardagh in the Annals of Ulster and the Tripartite Life also highlight the significance of this ecclesiastical centre. Given the size and function of the site, along with the high-quality artefacts it produced, it is likely that it was occupied by those of the manaig class. Manaig or ‘lawful laity’ were ecclesiastic clients who worked within monastic estates and were separate from secular society. Manaig, or manach worked land on behalf of the church, were prohibited from paying surety and were prevented from engaging in contracts without the permission of their abbot (Etchingham 1999, 54). A number of ecclesiastical monuments are located nearby Ardagh, namely St. Brigit’s Holy Well, in the townland of Banghill and Cross Pedestal located to the east of the village, in the townland of Cross. It could be argued that land surrounding Ardagh was primarily controlled by the church and these monuments may have The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

functioned as territorial markers, indicating the boundaries of church-owned land. Given the recovery of a possible cross- inscribed stone, typical Christian burial and the high quality metalwork at Back of the Hill, it could well be argued that the site worked within an ecclesiastical estate, and was occupied by a group such as manaig. Although functioning as a settlement, areas of the site were used for the production of high quality and complex metalwork, the creation of which, suggested by documentary evidence, would have been carried out by a number of smiths. The worked comb and glass objects could also have been made at the site, as it is possible that a variety of craftsmen were under patronage at Back of the Hill. Subsequent to the abandonment of the site, possibly from the 8th or 9th century, the bank appears to have been levelled and was targeted for modern lazy bed cultivation and drainage. This activity was primarily carried out at the site from the sixteenth to nineteenth centuries. Today the enclosure at Back of the Hill is wellmaintained and located on land owned by a member of the excavation team.

Acknowledgments Thanks must be extended to Dr Conleth Manning, Dr Ann Lynch, and Mr Edward Bourke of the National Monuments Service for allowing access to the archives of Liam de Paor’s excavations in Co. Longford. I extend my sincere gratitude to Ann and Annette of Ardagh Heritage and Creativity Centre, Martin Morris, Longford County archivist and to Jimmy Leavy. The survey carried out at the site could not have been conducted without the support of Micheál Keegan, the current landowner – I thank him for his enthusiasm for the project.

Plate 7: Spiral ring-headed pin (author)

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017

Bibliography Coleman, A. E. 2014. A write-up of Liam de Paor’s excavations of the early medieval enclosure at Back of the Hill, Co. Longford, 1967. Unpublished MA Thesis, Department of Archaeology, University College Cork. Comber, M. 2004. Native Evidence of non-ferrous metalworking in Early Historic Ireland. BAR International Series 1296. Oxford: John and Erica Hedges Ltd. Etchingham, C. 1999. Church Organisation in Ireland A.D. 650 to 1000. NUI Maynooth: Laigin Publications Mac Airt, S., Mac Niocaill, G. 1983. The Annals of Ulster (To AD. 1131). Dublin: School of Celtic Studies, Dublin Institute for Advanced Studies. MacNamee, J.J. 1954. History of the diocese of Ardagh. Dublin: Browne and Nolan. Stokes, W. 1887. The Tripartite Life of Patrick with other documents relating to that saint: Part 1. London: Eyre and Spottiswoode. Walsh, P. 1942. Tethbae. Ériu, 13, 88–94. Youngs, S. 1990. The work of angels: masterpieces of Celtic metalwork, 6th–9th centuries AD. Austin: University of Texas.

Jimmy Leavy and Micheál Keegan at the Back of the Hill site.

The King at the Back of the Hill Anthology Two July 2017