1
2
FOR THE MASHED-UP GENERATION.
3
4
5
Hi, I’m the founder of mag. Mash is a magazine that highlights the drive, passion and voice of our youth. I have always been interes ted in people, culture, life and experiences. I have always found interes ting how the mind fabricates ideas and unders tanding. I wanted to push the often over looked to voice their opinions on politics, activism and their craft. Mash has one impor tant goal and that is to show that
6
MANIFESTO We aren’t afraid. Mash wants to push boundaries, to ques tion societal norms and engage a collaborative space for creatives to feel inspired and vocal. We are not jus t a . We are f inding our political feet, we are more and more passionate to succeed. Mash magazine projects up and coming people in their f ield, who are get ting shit done and have shit to say. We rate that - here, at Mash.
7
12-21
OP ASHION - DEP F E L B A N I A T S SU
22 - 25
TITY FASHION IDEN
CONTENT
26 - 31
8
34 - 35 36 - 39
RT FASHION AS A
L RUNWAY THE POLITICA
THE STREETS CORPORATE IN
40 - 45
ITICAL PRINT IS POL
T REBELLIOUS U B E L B A R E N L YOUNG, VU
46 - 49 50 - 53
S STREET BURBERRY GOE
54 - 61
PPAREL END GENDER A
64 - 73 FROM DIY INTERVIEWS TO MAKING IT AS A PRESENTER
74 - 83 BREAKING OUT OF THE INDUSTRY CLOSET
84 - 91
PERFORMING AT THE BRITS
FEMALE SINGER/ AFTERS AND BEING AN RNB SONGWRITER
108 - 117 CONTROVERSIAL FEMINIST ART IN THE NAME OF SELF LOVE
118 - 119 120 - 121
SEX AND PSYCHEDELIC FEMI NISM ‘BUILD THE WALL’ TRUMP PR INTS
THE POLITICS IN THE RAP
96 - 101 BRINGING BACK JUNGLE 102 - 103
DNB PRODUCER AND
SOUNDCLOUD
124 - 125 NOT CONSENT 126 - 131 THE YOUTH OF TODAY 132 - 135 DIVERSITY AND EQUALITY 136 - 139 WE ONLY HAVE ONE PLANET
9
10
11
12
MIA COTTON - mIMI’S gARMS
13
14
‘w
hen you go charity shopping you have to just ignore sizes, When did you realise you had an interes t in fashion? if you think it looks cool just wear it’ What was a pinnacle moment in your life that changed I only realised it in second year of uni but I think it was always there I jus t never really thought about it. Late second year and early third year I got involved in photoshoots, s tyling and selling clothes.
your perception on the fashion indus tr y and how you personally shop?
Being broke at uni! I was literally living of f 30 quid a week or less and ever yone was buying new clothes and I jus t felt shit because ever yone else looked cool and I didn’t. So I s tar ted going in charity shops too and from uni and I was like WAIT theres actually quite cool s tuf f in here, and then I realised no one can get that s tuf f and I can be dif ferent and thats why I s tar ted doing it. Once I realised that this is actually a bet ter way of shopping then I s tar ted talking about sus tainability and tried to encourage it but the initial reason for charity shopping was literally because I had no money.
Fo r s o m eone w ho wan do you t s to ke f e e l li k e ep up w people shops? i t h t re n c a n s t il l ds, d o t hi s in c h a r i ty
Ye a h I t h in k p e o p le s t r u c r e a t iv e g g le t o and det do i t bu a t y o u ca c h y o u r s e lf a lr e a d y n if y o u f rom the have w h a re c o e n n d s i h t io n in g t h I’ d g o s t o p p in g . r a ig h t t o When I at you u s e d to t h e s iz e you go g 8 s e c t io o s h o pp char i t y n and s t in g s h o p p in u f f if y o u li k e g t h y at, w hen ou have t h in k i t t o ju s t lo o k s c ma y b e ig n o r e s iz o o l ju s a bi t t t wear es, o o b ig i t ma k e i t a s n e d e if i t is how yo lo o k g o u ca n od and c o m in g c h a nge i t I f e e l li from D k e a lo to epop a t o f t re n d s n d s e co nd han a re d at th Do you e m o ment. tr y and ke
ju s t w e a ep up w i t h t re n r w hat ds or do y o u li k e ? you
B i t of b o t h r e a ll y , if I c h o o but I ha se some v e n ’t r e t h in g t h a ll y a t I t h in k s e e n a ny i t but I d lo o k s c o o n e e ls e w o tr y an ol e a r in g i d li k e m t I’ d s t il l a ke i t w w or k and ear s o r t of u p to d a t e .
15
Do you feel with your Depop you have to whats trending ? Are you looking for animal prints because you know they minute and are on trend?
keep up with your neons and will sell at the
I’ve always been an animal print lover! I sor t of jus t tr y and be conscious of what colours and s tyles are in at the moment. When you go to charity shops as well it is sometimes colour co-ordinated so say one year pink is in like las t year I was ver y pink orientated so I would jus t go to the pink section and obviously this year theres neon green. I tr y and curate the out f its for Depop so when I do a shoot its got to look like something in an essence of how a visual merchandiser would think people would shop, so I do have to be creative in how I put out f its together.
16
Why did you decide to use Depop as a plat form to sell clothes? Because obviously I k new about eBay but that didn’t appeal to me it’s less visual, people will hang a shit ty piece of clothing up and not really care whereas Depop you can tell the community is a bunch of creatives jus t by the way pictures are taken. I actually s tar ted using Depop when I was 15 when it f irs t came out but didn’t really k now what I was doing so I was doing the whole eBay thing. I s tar ted seeing how other people were doing it and took inspiration from them and yeah basically I s tar ted doing it because I was broke and needed more money and that was jus t an easier way to get a bit more.
Have you noticed you have a par ticular consumer? Yeah so like edgy s treetwear s tudents. I can check my analytics on ins tagram and mos t of my consumers are from London or Bris tol so you can imagine what they would be like.
So how do you think social media has inf luenced you and where do you see your future? In a dream world I would love to have my own shop from working in retail, I jus t want to collaborate with similar people, like the kilo sale I want to hold events. I’ve been invited to do a couple of events now, like the clothes fes t which has more Depop people.
17
We ’ v e b ebeene n e v ’ e Wu g h t uuppt o bro t h g b rtoou bmei nt hd e less e t h a t m i h n d e t l e s b s s r e m u . s c e o n n r s u o a m eer s c w t h a t w e a re .
y o u o f f by g in s is p ble n d s a re s s u s t ain a What bra a s e lv e s t hem ma r ke t in g e re y e t ? h t t o n e r y a w hen t he
a n n oy s u t f it t e r s O n a b r a ve m. U A ll of t h e e d t h ey h ic r p r e v o . s e it s s o e x p e n s iv e o m e b e ca u s is h ic h s e c t io n w p la ce a v in t a g e ir ma r ke t e h t e k li I t hen oy m e , e me but A sos ann k li le p o e ds h a t s fo r p se bran e h b e ca u s e t T . d e r ic tyle a re o v e r p class s als o t h ey g n i k r o w are se the e that l p glamori o e p to mote it ts and pro n it ge e h t d n but class a t u r al s t y le a middle n a s it e ever y e d . Fo r m exploit d o in g ke t ls ir g h ic se see t he r a r in g t h e e w t hen you it d r a f fo w h o ca n w e e ke n d clo t h e s .
18
D ac o yo ti vi u t h s t in YE S vo k i !B th i c t ©s i e b e n k o e ca us on a m u t he m rp e w fa i l l u sh en I l c h . min a re e a ik io n W d r ts e le co e t ns nia e t s do ha h ns s d s u l©s on st co n’ e o u f ci o u t , i ’ s t jo w e f li k s t ll g ’ t e v n s u m t g e t n l y o ain b e e h e e n ab to b y a w at s t i t n t r s i t, es w ili t h a h e w a a r e a r w h b u t in k t h a e ’ v t h a y? ve tw e ta a I n d w a j e y e ll
v e u i n f i ’ m t hi b o e b e e c t do m o r t s t l u e n s o t n k p u t i t a re . n b u a ll y es r s n’ s u ced hing eopl we We roug car t h e, a n d r r t o b a b o e n e a re s p e h t u e . I e lp a l ju u n ot p e . of m e o u n y s tu u t t h d to s t lik d far to pe d e f f a i s b b e e o to er d i d n d r ain m o h o pr a es c o i t s w a re su a n re d n s v e r y s hi n g an t a cl e d yo so u n t ver ci a ly l m ju ed s t ia t
Brands are commercialising the vintage look. How do you feel about that?
n
Yeah because people would rather buy the new s tuf f when you’re tr ying to promote vintage you’re tr ying to promote sus tainability which it isn’t if its new, its ver y back wards. They’re all the same with the panel s trips and brands like Kappa and Fila thats all the s tuf f your granddad used to wear, they’ve had a rebir th now but older people are like what the hell is going on wearing all the s tuf f we used to wear. It’s like council es tate clothes hand me downs being glamourised but it’s new. When I go charity shopping I look for these brands because I k now I can sell it for more in a way its bet ter for me but like i’m buying it from Shirley highs treet for 3 quid when you’re paying/selling it for £100.
as
19
CONSUMERS
Brainwashed consumers BRAINWASHED
If you were put in a room with all the decision makers of the bigges t fashion corporations what would you want answered? Why are you s till producing s tuf f made with materials that are made with plas tic when you k now the repercussions of that and you s till are pumping it out, that makes me frus trated! Why are you not thinking of more innovative ways to jus t re use all of the shit tonne of material that is already out there already, there is so much they could be doing. I get that it would be a lot more time consuming, which might mean they won’t make as much money but thats jus t greedy in my eyes. So yeah I think I would ask them why they are not coming up with more innovative and creative ways to be more sus tainable. Do you think it is the consumers job or the people at the top of the indus tr y to inf luence sus tainable shopping? I think both because now obviously people have s tar ted shopping more sus tainably the big companies are catching onto that but if they jus t did it in the f irs t place that would inf luence the consumer to shop that way anyway. They are set up in a way to basically brainwash people into buying their products anyway. I saw something the other day someone pos ted it on their ins tagram saying you should s tar t shopping in charity shops but obviously some people can only af ford high s treet shops and I thought that aint right because the reason I s topped shopping in high s treet shops was because I was broke like it’s actually cheaper to shop second hand than it is to go to Primark now because they’ve bloody raised their prices loads. What advice would you give people who want a more sus tainable wardrobe, where do they s tar t? I think how I s tar ted it before I even realised I was doing it, I would for example get an old hoodie and think how could I make this dif ferent I would jus t chop it up and make a cropped hoodie. Customise your clothes with whatever you’ve got. Go second hand get hand me downs from people, steal clothes from your boyfriend, go to clothes swaps where you take old clothes and swap them for someone else’s.
20
21
22
The
notion
of
individuality
begins with thoughts, character, personality and behaviour, which continues externally. It grows and changes from an early age, because of the af fect of society, education as well as habits. Depending on the culture where you grew up and the friends There are people that you spent time with, you develop who are more your
personality
and
experiences. comfortable Those things not only inf luence identity, with looking but also the way you look, because into latest it is an expression of who you are. fashion trends It is true, that being individual in and celebrity fashion might be quite dif f icult, advertisements especially when fashion choices are and there are cons tantly evolving. And yes, ever yone ‘weirdos’ like . unders tands
fashion
dif ferently. me, who would rather create
unique looks by themselves.
So here I am. 21 year old s tudent, who went from basic grey looking teenager from Lithuania to ‘who k nows what I am wearing, but it looks cool’ fashion s tudent in United Kingdom. My passion for fashion details and s tyling s tar ted when I was quite young. I was get ting inspiration from my parents and their looks.
I s till remember, when my However, I grew up in a place where s tereotypes mom was wrapping dif ferent were (and in some places s till are) controlling mos t colour threads in my hair of the people. Which is why, being ‘unique’ wasn’t to make small braids and the bes t choice if you wanted to be accepted and I thought that was the have friends (I k now, I k now, you don’t need to be coolest thing ever. To be accepted, but tell this to a kid, who was bullied). hones t, sometimes I s till Soooo.. I s tar ted my journey of being a basic grey ques tion myself about some teenager. I was like mos t of the other girls in school of my fashion choices at that long hair, skinny black jeans, cute long nails, massive time, but it was something, purse. This was my s tyle and I didn’t think that I that made me dif ferent from could wear anything else. One thing, that made me others. dif ferent from others was my passion for sneakers. I remember my friend saying: Gabs, you look so cute in this dress, but sneakers?? Really?? And I said: YES! It was something, that I was comfor table with and it was the way to show others, that you should not be ashamed of something, that makes you feel good.
23
me l, w h o ca ir g e h T . UK r y w it h s o t d li v in g in n e t u r o a c t s d I e en en m uch an op dow n w h s e a id e s ca p e fr o o s t p o ) u t e g d im e in t g y t n r t a a s th I M y li fe c h s tar t. I wa p la ce ( a t new, but o d t g e e d in r h in e t h e m w m d so w se d id n ’t k n o s io n fo r s and tr y fr o m a clo I s r . a a t p e s y a lo 8 t 1 is o r fo e re ns, g het her t h v in g w it h li w ma ny o p t io s , s a s in f lu e n ce d w le I ly e t h t s t a o r h e m t v , e e ar y le . N minimal s t e m o r nin g er t hese o d fo r m e h d o t n g U in is . e r t k e a a h h m at w w is s, t hat we r even we e o ic d id n ’t k n o d o o h ees us. Th o c s s m n r , io e s t h h s t h g o fa u , ot ow t ho s t y le o r n t a f fe c t s h w o u ld b e li ke , f ir s t a I , h s t t r , a o g h t t in c , h k fa t hin me e of d I d o n ’t t o wear so t n by a r a n g a e s q u ic k ly of le o y e o t it h s c u y q e m d w y e s r if e nt bo nc fr o m all cir cu m s t a u ld n o t id e ause I get s o c g c e I b in h w t is o f it n o l lo t ess e n t il s. s t y le . I g u e s t e d in a r l is w hy , e v e a t ic in n d cu lt u re p a y t m s a e ip I r n t o d t n n g a in re t h a p py h a v n d s to d if fe p inio n a lo t f it in m y o u ie o y fr , n m a ia e d e g e v n lm ha cha a fr o m s o cia d I alre a d y g o n e t hin g , n a in t e r it h t h e id e r a u w t t s c p , e e u c it e h la c m p r a a e is h o w I c around t h m e n t fr o m hin g n e w . is t h le e t e m d n o n a s A e e . e t s nt re a s, I s h a t e le m e r y in g to c t t S o m e t im e e d s n u a s ld u le ty r e I co d if fe re n t s f o min d , w h e s e h t lo v a r io u s c of mix in g
fuck
24
Societal
no rm s
e of th when t s o her m d unique, ed t e h ble, w r iginal an e interes t a n o i ues t be o s, ey ar I t is q s t ill can s that th owaday nt n g le re peop f the thin Especially d in dif fe ful o e . r mos t the same is publish es powe n see k t a e in ar at ion, tha for ms ma es. You c es t ti liv m infor media pla peoples’ per sonali d and e l socia t in young ates their recognis idea c e c i impa outh ded o be mor orget t ing is is t h y ,f how iqueness d groups i t y. And t ke l n n a a u and n fr ie e individu ted to br o look i h t i w t n liked idea of th om. I wa ou need o is y h fr e of th lear ned s of how myself, w elong I b e e ere I lour what s tereot yp ed and b h w t co nd those be accep day to f i dif ferent os and o o y like t ing ever ents wi th cuts, tat t uld not o ir ry im s t ill t h exper -liner s, ha people sh ghts, u g e t throu s and ey hink, tha vidual tho ate t k iv di lips t ic clothes. I eir in and mot my h t w t d br igh aid to sho ht inspire elves. An ant h ig w r be af se they m of their s - do you tr y to r t u e beca to go ou would b you rathe u rs othe on for yo or would brace i t? m s ti ques like other yle and e st to be ur own o f ind y
embrace your own style. written by Gabriele Daubaryte
25
A Fashion journalist Alejandra Muniz Mesa shares what she loves and hates about the current fashion industry and why she doesn’t care about mixing satin knee highs and cycling shorts.
26
What I love about the fashion industry is the diversity of styles, how people can describe themselves with different colors, patterns, garments‌ in order to be themselves. What I hate is the rivalry between people working in fashion; fashion is considered an art, why not support other artists?
fas
hio
ni
sa
rt
27
Q. Do you think the fashion industry exploits socio-political messages in order to ‘sell’ or keep up with trends? A. I do think sometimes it exploits messages in order to sell more, but I still don’t know if it more a problem or some helpful way to help the masses understand. In one hand I feel the brand doesn’t support the message so it is kind of business purposes only but in the other hand kids or influential people may take the message seriously as it what their favorite brand advertise.
28
tFoEEL
E IC
supposed
feel the inable? u o y o us ta wd Q. Ho to be more s y we e indus tr e in le b improv a liv tain e a sus r ned that we We v a h o rder t conce nsumpt ion. A. In o s t be more ut co uch f ir all abo ’t need as m ing is should h ic wh ometh on s d y t d e e ie w e c on ge and a so nder s t n and if we d h don’t dama u ld u o sh hic ow hion as we thes w s lo e c h t fas t fas t ion… in lo t y c s u e b v o in uld sed t ploi ta we sho t. We are u n, labour ex t y in ne io ainabili t t la u s p ll u s o r p u h o it er es increas e problem w consider oth h which t ld e shou well as g. But, as n indus tr y w ove our livin r io p h the fas le ac ts to im b a sus tain
For me fashion is art and the perfect description is this quote
isn’t
think do you ion t a h fash Q. W igh end ed into h t u o ab rat ncor po being e r? ea s treet w you zing if a m a k it is ford it; A. I thin money to af as seen he have t sive clothes w en as exp as But, before ople uture. o c e t the pe u f a o h t t s s ju mo nately so it is unfor tu e the money av don’t h ual a an ac t n I a more h t r follow. the n a a r c m e a dre es nd w ear tre wer their pr ic w t e e r t s lo le if they le peop feel like ore af fordab , somet imes m uch and be want it as m ’t of wouldn ut dreaming o b its all a end more. ut high ut o b a k b in s treet you th m o o d r f t a ore e Q. Wh k ing inf luenc nts for the m e ta brands ing their gar m ic r then p t? kes af f luen hat ma ore, as w is t a k th ven m ally thin e produc ts e alenciaga’ n o s r e ‘B Ip hos hite’ or want t h the people ed by ‘Of f W pr ice is wor t me and the at sa it is br saw th n’t ’ll think e e w w if ly s obviou but, probably r k we would t, ima produc anging in Pr hat doesn’t th .T usiness produc k of buying it ’s all about b . in , it ion even th ink it’s good e about fash h k It on’t li mean I also d g e you in h t do? Ar rend? some u o y g/ a t ss how ou dre mood/ a thin y o d y Q. Wh y a per son/a nic, it b d ameleo es h inspire c s a et im ense shion s y mood. Som e, fa y m m r in lov ibe I descr epending on I´m inspired o ex y sd es se change ant ic becau r mayb I per sonally o y d o m o t. o really r ecause I´m m y thing I wan b an et grungy feel I can do in order to g feel like I r I e e r becaus w any blogg t f its howeve o u ll o don’t fo n; I s t yle my p. wake u io I t a n ir e p h s n w in s tr y ca or ning u m d y in r e n ev fashio
29
30
31
WHAT does
MEAN FOR FASHION? Since 2016 referendum, Brexit has become quite a ‘sticky’ subject. There has been a number of different opinions about what’s going to happen next and various predictions of future decision-making. Hence, these Brexit debates are still an ongoing subject in the global community. Interestingly, the industry of fashion and its members are also quite open about their political views and actively pursue to share their standpoints either through fashion shows or interviews. Firstly, let’s look at what British Fashion Council (BFC) says about the current situation. In the official statement released on January 16, Caroline Rush, chief executive of the BFC, stated: ‘As the British Fashion Council, we cannot emphasize strongly enough that a no-deal Brexit is a scenario that should be avoided at all costs.’ She continues saying that ‘the ongoing uncertainty and confusion that a no deal creates will have a negative impact on our industry, where investment is already impacted from the uncertainty being faced.’ Moreover, BFC has supported a call for the People’s Vote after Theresa May’s deal has been rejected. Also, in 2016 BFC’s survey, 90% per cent of British Fashion Designers stated that they were voting to remain in 2016 referendum, thus we can see a pattern fashion industry wants to stay part of EU and its economy. The question remains: how a no-deal Brexit will affect fashion industry in the UK? Fashion industry can expect much higher import costs as well as a lack of labour and potential challenges for the production delivery between the UK and the EU countries. Also, it is important to note the devaluation of the pound which has a massive impact on consumer spending. One of the fashion critics, Sarah Mower called a no-deal Brexit a ‘national emergency’ saying that ‘the idea of having to deal with the massive complications of extra form-filling, delays in shipping, the stopping of the easy flow of goods and people in and out of Paris, as well as other European locations such as Italy, Portugal and Romania, where fabric is bought and clothes are manufactured, is enough to threaten the closing down of an entire sector of the UK’s £32 billion fashion industry.’ Written by Rimante Bivainyte
32
To be designer
frank, as Swedish fashion Per Götesson once said:
Fashion is all about the exploration, art, freedom and self-expression, and various limitations as well as national borders completely reject the idea of liberation of fashion. Fashion is not only a form of art, but also a huge business managed beyond UK or EU’s borders, it involves connections and networks, strong relationships and collaborations, hence over numerous discussions, Brexit has become a threat to all of these valuable elements of the fashion industry.
Ne Br i ver th e t po ish fa less, l the i tical shion fashio has mos views desig n do e t pro been rece thro ner s sn’t s pun mine sho nt sho ugh contin top h n w f spr k s t y t Br i t case ws in ashio ue to ere: v n cha eadin le as ish de d by Lond sho voic ar iou gm e t ws s on we sign Viv fas nge . h i l e e F e l ei O a s n h r mo ion sh and, sages as he k now ne W shion ne o r how veme ow hi of co of an r poli n for es t w Wee f ‘Br ever nt, cl ghly fo ur se, ti-con tical a her m ood, k e i cut xi t is , one mate cused Brex sume c tive oder a n i has ting o a cr i of th chan on de t. Th r ism, ess o n m i and not o ur selv e; w e mo ge a mocr s pa climat f r non bran nly sh es of e sho dels nd c acy, # ticula e o f o po -s ter ded t wn h from uld be prote nsum MeTo r l a e s o on i tical ot yp r tan er pun the w coop ted, er ism sa p e k , clo view ical s t y at ter side or ld.’ ratin ying thin s t hro ling ned wi t We g, n : g An h u a s , bu pie o ex s t w ot gh nd wh ther c po s tat t als es a trav ood o em em o e nd aga ago is w Br i ti s e s e n pre ts d xpre chao nt Ha rele ll-k n h de ti s sen a o ted emon sed h c, her mnet sed h wn f signe t o r by s trat er and care spen er se r her , Ka mo ed t e col sus r ha t 40 r ies fo sloga har in del tain s b lec yea s. e n r t a tio scr e H a r n sh en s b ti a n e ‘Fa amin invol le fas def i in fas -Brex ir ts, n mnet n s o and hion g s ta ved simhion ed b hion b i t cam t lon t, y also ‘96% Hates teme plis t philos poli usine paig g n t i n o dea desi Don Brex ts su c blac phy. ical a ss, an . ’ g for th, vo ned t t Wan i t, Se ch a k and This c tivismd c sho Nucle ting o -shir t t Bre ond s ‘Ca whi te recen x R u s pub r t slo ar D t Trum wi th i t’. Ea efere ncel t-shir t t i B to lic an gan sar m p an s tate r lier H ndum rexi s am d, p t’, me sha d v me a N m a s e n a o re s her r ious ages nt. De r ticula t abo net t w’ So, wo aud hav sign r ly, ut a has w Ca h wa aft ien e a er rk m er at sh c b a e nd s, h hug eliev paig r, ans the ou l op inio ence e imp es th n a m wer t UK’s d we o it n w she ac t at lea exp pro uch , c ec ve i th o on o h the ntinu n ind cesse igher ly gu ? We t from u l wo es pro s tr y s, how cos t esses l, the the f r ld . Ye re ash f h t o . e e a r v s rep is n s, t s a i er, t o i m i n n tho resen g a lway I bel por t, here i o pa wor s l r g i s Fas se w ting n ains t bee eve t expo goin ticula d n h nor f ier hat a r t, de g to b r for hion w o ar ot o n ce, s th sig e po e li tic ill alw not ly po ms nin i e t a w g fa al p p a ur p ays s t ble t ular nd s ill co shion ter ntin ose and o e opi eot n ue x s or i uni o p n r y p per ted ess b e son wh the ut al s, al o eth ms elv so r ta er es t bo o su hat b . bje e c ts .
33
34
35
36
37
Since Coco Chanel made history with her pant suit in 1916, it became widespread in the 1960s and has since empowered women in politics, in buisness and in form. Now in 2019, it is all about being corporate in the streets. From the likes of Hilary Clinton to Beyonce, the pant suit has been worn as a form of power dressing and solidarity. Tailoring has become so accessible with high street stores making bespoke budget tailoring and the recent oversized boyfriend blazer trend which has increasingly been adopted in the streets and on social media, through influencers.
38
STREETS
The blurred lines between work wear and leisure wear makes you question the notion of the female pant suit still having power politically, however a blazer has the power to pull an outfit together and make it look thought out just like it has the power to make it look like you didn’t roll out of bed at one in the afternoon. It makes you look like you have your life together. There is no longer any class rules when it comes to tailoring it is avaiable to all, even if it is lending your grand-dads hand- me -downs. So the street’s here for buisness.
39
s c i t i l o p
, 40
41
prin
S 0 8 t
t n i r p e b n a c t n i r p mal
i n a Why . l a c i t i l o p
s dipped y a lw a s a h t Animal pr in truely r e v e n s a h shion and fa f o t u o d n e poli t ical h t in a n e h w e 80s a t im 9 1 e onald h R t t in n , e y id a s e w r a p gone S for mer U h it w d tcher, t he e t a a h r T u t t a e s r a s g a r sphere w inis ter Ma m e n to t he im io ll r e p b K e r U f d o n t as an ac Reagan a n r o b cade. s e a d w t t a n h t e f m o e t ic values punk mov s li ia r e t a e bold, m r e d n w a s t t n in e r p m n gover al sphere ic t li o p , free and e e iv h s t s e o r t p t s x a e In contr e up was k a M agains t . l t e h b ig e r r b d d n n a a clashing s tand out o t d revival e t e n h a t , w n le io p h s o hea v y. Pe cycle of fa e h t is It . nsider r o e c d s r u o f l o a n e io tradit w hils t som o s d n a med Pa t s d fa n e e r h t t f r o e ld ic o of ta teful mim pair ing is ir d e h a t , ; s s t r in e r d animal p f f Eas ten o r e n r u T t a K leopard d n a s s lo g Butcher and p r r ings, li r int be a p e l t a n e im n m a e t n a o f st s t ioning ca e u q s u s e v pr int. It lea poli t ical?
: The e c r ie F In f o he aut hor t esign) n o D ld s r e e W p r a Jo H ( pard pr int o le f o y r d to help o e t n ig his s e d n r e he pa t t o t heir t [ in d n le said t ha t “T b s animals u o used r e n g a n m a o d w a t t hese as one t ha w ] s t n e m n ent on to w enviro r e h t r fu t,� She r ing it a e w t o n to s tand ou e r omen we W t a h t in also show la o t t ex p u b s r o t s preda to appear a r prey. e h it e n e r e t ha t t hey w
42
and dra expr emp o e g A this to su ss dif wer in nima fe l g p ter decad er mo rent mea pr int vi m n h e d bee s of a , anim el to sions ing fo as o r n r n a wi t high imal l pr in oyal t f a w wom p ly o y h e t ma 2018 prot r int a is a ‘ to th man n, ab fro le t bon e s ny LFW es te nd m oa t f f dis o af ree p d tat llowi ban d for ur in i i d n t ng ma poli e mo and up t apt nin we eful o ev al th des sui t g re ny y tics v old ear , ani emen en in y a pi te and al f and re o i ts rea ur o s. I t mal t’. In in w ptin conn lisin n th mad fur h as eh i th g for ota g th e ru i a n t s Fau i w t t x. faux f ons to anim ays. or y ur and wea al fur wi th pr i l th e is nt. v So en th out e Th er wi t h of s eviva elf exp l of cla I ts a s r per dapta essio hing a n s b pr i onali t le ab , bold nimal nt n ili p ie dec s in t s to t y allo ess an r ints ade he s be e ws d in is a f ing a fo x f s d er . In po me w plore or ma ividua r m Bec to d a n l k y clas li tics a y i t h thro y t yp i t y. s Ha u e y a did our c sys te nimal s thr gh th s of oug es pr i side are oun ms n a and roc cil e s a ts a hou e pr i be king s tate nyon re a t the nts una i t. bab e fro midd to S f o r le m e a sui t yo id to look to B mix to y ella u! you our r a wild nim al
43 article By Courtney Bryant
aboutcrazy
MODEL QUOTE D - MILLIE CART ER
44
©
45
46
47
DESIGNER - DEMI HARDY. INSTAGRAM - @DEMI.HARDYDESIGNS
48
49
50
Burberry was an outdoorsman luxury brand, dressing explorers and World War I soldiers, later lost its luxury appeal when it was adopted by ‘Foot ball hooligans and chavs’ who imitated the print, the brand bacame more mainstream. With Riccardo Tisci appointed as creative director in March 2018, Tisci created a Burberry rebrand with Peter Saville. It was very apparent who the target audience was as the new rebranded logo was put straight on Instagram, and whilst you might ask why Burberry wanted to reclaim all it’s licensing not only to stop imitation but to regain its rights and so the brand would be less sort after by the less affluent but on the other hand announced their rebrand on a highly used Millennial platform - Instagram. Burberry changed its whole marketing stragedy to appeal to the more digital audience, this showed risk and willingness to change and adapt as a brand, authentic, exclusive content put on Instagram is a powerful way to show who Burberry want engaged. Millennials are the futrure and whilst we may not bring in the most in revenue and may be considered ‘Football hooligans or chavs’, we will be in years time be ‘Football hooligans and chavs at heart but a more grown version, invested in Burberry. An interesting collaboration with the politically punk fashion designer - Vivienne Westwood also shows how the brand is recognising what Millennials want. Westwood has made protest t-shirts and scarves for Burberry stating ‘Cool Earth has a plan to save the rainforest’. This shows Burberry and Vivienne Westwoods political tone and taps in on what we as Millennials are vocal about. Making the collaboration more appealing, political and rebellious.
51
52
Andrew Raisman quote - Copdate
53
APPA RE
54
AREL APP 55
56
rarosestyle) Photo credits: Jasra-Rose Uddin (@jas : UA M H / ng yli St n/ Creative directio intoff Photography: Emma Fl pine avid Gil / Flavian Chris D / s ip ill Ph ris Pa : els Mod
REGARDLESS OF
Q. Do you think the fashion industry needs to do more to push unisex fashion?
din d U e s o R a r Jas ctor A. I feel like unisex fashion is growing, e r i d e v i t a last year New York fashion week cre s k l created the first ‘Coed’ fashion show a t t s i l y t s and there are unisex lines - although and d n a most ‘unisex’ items are simple things n o i h s a f x e s like T-shirts ect and sportswear, I uni y r t s u guess because of sizing issues but I ind e oot? h t r e this sh re did your h r t e o think it would be cool to see fashion f h w from whe t e y p m g e ? o n c g c c u branch out into other fits instead of cept lothin te gr ver a e l l he con shoot is qui dels in this c i t w id d playing it so safe ere mo the alk f w o t a g c Q. Wh hing used in to s t yle the n i in 2019 hang t c m e h ing at ear ing t I t k p The clo n come fro o p a lo lar ly . Bu from t io er. d came women regu nding topics en at r inspira o y ll l ia a t i n e e r o in g s t i t s in t d p e i ic n t conce eek and not ex fashion a fashion imag i tems. trad y shoo is w x ss n e . A. M pele fashion oked into u t to the unis r o f gy sha luxur y s t yle g s a lo w n b e o n r d h e a s n h . if fe k wi th ear. I t wear a hing d people mensw to do somet ainly spor ts a unisex loo r power ful m fo te d wante ent which is yself to crea ows fashion h m m at s the mo challenged hing th t e I m o d te s Ins tea to crea d e t n I wa
enswear m ir e h t g in omen in eople are havin w d e s u was have ions p ender it nt year s open conver sat g e t c a e r h w in alk s dless ore fashion? t of cat w e ref lec ts the m ok s good regar x lo e is a n d u e not ic to m ver lo eres t in ecause I isex lines which g whate b your int in n d r e a io k e h r s w a t sp d un ex fa se of Q. Wha a of unis cently introduce of a sen e e id r e o h m t ve re k into there’s es. Zara ha d to loo rat ions e d e n id n c a e e e chang g S d s r e t O e s h S t g ir A n f o u I t e yo A. ond ds lik and with nd bran g to resp ? in y t r r t a s t u s shows a sex and gender n ind ion is to the fashio hink fash t I in d p regards n e t a s nder tant for. n impor w on ge a ie v intended is le n ib io e f lex x fash uch mor ink unise h m t a u o ’s y e do ther Q. Why d for it n a m e d vious ’s an ob e r e h t k A. I thin
THE GENDER IT WAS INTENDED FOR
LOOKS GOOD
WHATEVER
WEAR WEAR WHATEVER LOOKS GOOD
57
Q. Who are your biggest inspirations from a creative director/stylist perspective? A. I was inspired mainly by the brand Balmain and ss19 fashion. I like the brands strong style and mix of luxury style with and edge. I worked with a black and silver colour theme and played around with different layers and textures. I found the pieces I styled with from a range of places because I feel like that’s how you get the best looks some I already owned, charity shops, Zara and H&M or models own.
Photo credits: Creative direction/ Styling/ HMUA : Jasra-Rose Uddin (@jasrarosestyle) Photography: Emma Flintoff Models: Paris Phillips / David Gil / Flavian Chrispine
I wouldn’t say one specific person but In terms of creative direction, I love images that are contemporary and something out of the box like Hunger magazine– something quirky and creative, maybe even with an art influence as Ive come from an art background rather than strictly fashion. For style I love YSL and Balmain, their black and white shots are really powerful.
Q. Do you think a ‘one size fits all’ approach to fashion is attainable for all, when silhouettes are all shapes and sizes? A. I think realistically, no, one size fits all isn’t going to work for everyone which is why existing lines seem to play it safe with baggy items which is why it’s all going to be down to the individual to make items their own through the way they wear/ style it.
Q. Do you think society is shopping in a more unisex way?
Overall, yes in terms of younger generations, people seem more open and less restricted by gender ‘rules’. A.
58
A.
Bet ter re s t yle ra presentat ion of th of ‘real’ er than the ‘I ‘real’ people an ns p ‘Ins tagr eople and mo tagram look’ d more individ am loo B re indiv u k’ idual s t et ter represe al yle rat n her tha tat ion n the
Q. Do yo gender u feel there n e neutra l sec t io eds to be a why? n in s to res? An d A. I thin k i t’s a good in that i t opens the ide some ways in I’m not a to sure ho w popu people but will be be la basic th cause they ar r these lines e in per son gs wi th bagg mos tly jus t y silhou ally I th in et s tar t in g point k they could b tes – but wh e a goo interes at wou t in ld be m d from w g is if people ore s ta ha and ma tever sec t ion r t ing shoppin g k ing i t wor k fo they wanted r them .
Q. Why are you abandoning traditional norms when it comes to dressing and identity throughout your creative direction and styling, is this to do with equality? A. When I came up with this shoot concept, I had no idea if my styling idea to mix men’s and womenswear would work because men and women’s sizing is so different but I think being able to look at all clothes as just clothes and not restricted to male or female, it allowed me to be more free and creative going with what works for the individual model as I was styling. For me, if something works, then go with it no matter who it was made for.
59
60
61
MORE THAN MUSIC 62
63
64
MAKING IT IN INDUSTRY IN HER DIY STUDIO SHED
65
r, e t n ese r p st o i i l d a a R urn e o s j i u c o musi tress L s her l ac l a d c n a re d l fie o he h t c S n e i h t y e , n jour industry ow her h c i d s n u a m of cks k a c b ba e set h t h t t r a o shed use in N wn DIY o o h r r e e h h is n e o c d a n p o s L ew i v r inte
66
So I got into presenting purely from the love of music. I s tar ted a blog when I was 18, I’d jus t moved to University in Cardif f and I wanted to s tar t a space where I could write about all the gigs I love, the fes tivals I’d been to and jus t being a pure musical geek really. Ha! I named it Unique Lullaby which I thought at f irs t sounded really lame, but now I love it and ever yone I meet says how much they like the name and I couldn’t be without it now. But I’m someone who doesn’t like to s top at one idea. I’d always loved watching fes tival coverage on the TV, especially after I’d been to one of the fes tivals, Leeds Fes tival being my f irs t at 16 with a group of 20 odd friends. Wild. So I thought to myself I want to be doing that! I want to be inter viewing my favorite bands and documenting fes tivals. I got my f irs t ever tas te of TV presenting when I was 18, I won a competition to be an O2 Academy TV presenter for the day. I inter viewed Black Veil Brides Fans for their channel, thrown in at the deep end. But it was sink or swim and I loved it. I wish I had the oppor tunity now because I would have done things a lot dif ferently because I was so inexperienced then, but it really showed me what I want to do with my life.
I am a firm believer that if you work hard for something and put your passion out into the world you never know who will find it and the So after that, I k new I needed to grow my brand so I s tar ted going to loads of opportunities are gigs in the local Cardif f scene, inter viewing band after band at various venues. endless. I would also ask as many bands as I could if I could come down and review the gig. This slowly began to grow, so I s tar ted a show on Radio Cardif f, my local community s tation. I put so much ef for t into my 2hour show having bands in for inter views and live sessions and linking it all to my blog which expanded the brand even more. I then decided I wanted to s tar t doing some onscreen presenting too which is where Lullaby Sessions was born. I conver ted an old utility room in one of my rented houses at the time and invited some of my favorite local bands to come and play for me, followed by an inter view. I loved it, and I had a great team of friends who produced, mixed and f ilmed the sessions with me, Josh Bowles and Alex Knill. Shout out to them. I s tar ted to then get involved with Bethan Elf yn’s project, Horizons/ Gor wellion, and I s tar ted to go down to a few events and inter view the bands for Beth’s BBC Radio Wales’ show at Swn Fes tival and various gigs. From there I jus t slogged away at hos ting inter views with touring bands from ever ywhere. I get all my fes tival press passes myself and I have inter viewed and documented at Green Man, Swn Fes tival, Splendor, Liverpool Sound City and The Great Escape, which I will be doing this summer too. I also wanted to learn ever ything I could about all sides of the indus tr y so I was balancing Uni whils t doing week long placements in London at Absolute Radio & Kerrang Radio. I also was cut ting my teeth on journalism and working with an awesome company for young voices called Podium. Me, I also did some production for a few Outside Broadcas ts for Capital FM South Wales. I jus t liked to keep busy and learn ever y angle I could. I’ve presented for various companies and I recently presented at the World Banking Awards for Sk y Tv’s Highlights. Acting is also something I am really passionate about, I used to make comedy videos on my Youtube Channel, I got scouted by the BBC las t December after they found these ahead of the launch of the new channel BBC SESH. I am now an actress and writer for their channel.
67
y t u a e b e h t s i t h at , t h g i r c i s u m of
68
WHY IS MUSIC SO IMPORTANT TO YOU? Music makes the world go round. Music is impor tant to me because it at taches itself to any mood you can be in. Music has always been something that has got me through a dif f icult situation or a s trong series of emotions. I have always delved into music for as long as I can remember really. Music was always in my household, especially Sgt Peppers Lonely Hear ts Club Band album, my dad would always have that one in the car. I was always fascinated by vinyls as well, we didn’t have a vinyl player while I was growing up but my dad brought down my mum’s and his old vinyl collection from the loft and although I couldn’t play them I’d go and download them. I picked a few of my favorites, Blondie’s Parallel Lines, The Beatles’ Abbey Road, Queen’s Greates t Hits, The Small Faces and loads more and s tuck them all on my wall, with the vinyls inside. I’m pret ty sure The Beatles are collectables now being originals from the 60’s and my dads face jus t went so pale because the vinyls were s till in the sleeves on my wall, one fall and that’s it. Haha, I have my own vinyl player now and I can safely say I k now their wor th and look after all these originals and more I’ve collected over the years. Music can change your mood from 0 to 100, I have playlis ts for when I’m happy, for when I’m down, playlis ts to throw me back to my teens and playlis ts to pump me up. Music has really helped me through a lot of s tuf f and my productivity sk y rockets when I lis ten to the right tune. If I go anywhere on my own my headphones are on. Huge apologies to ever yone who have said they said hello or waved at me and I appeared to completely ignore them, I am so sorr y. I go into my own lit tle world.
69
How do you spot talent for inter views? For new talent, I keep my ear ver y f irmly on the ground. I connect myself to the indus tr y of promoters, PR and venues. I think its something I have always done growing up. I’ve been going to gigs since I was 12 and I would always go and check out the suppor t band or at leas t see if they had a Myspace, wow remember that, haha, to see more information and have a lis ten. I also used to religiously download the free track on ITunes to f ind a new song or band. Looking for it raw, without any previous lis tens, I go via word of mouth and I make sure I check out a live show. I f ind so many exciting new bands by hanging out at gigs. I tr y to be objective, I k now what I like but I do have a ver y eclectic tas te so I k now when I hear something big and full of potential. I sift through Spotif y and I get sent A LOT of Press Releases that I spend days lis tening through. I love backs tories as well and that something unique and eye catching. I am cons tantly looking at who’s playing where and whether it be an es tablished ar tis t or a brand new project, I’ll reach out to what I like. I will only ever inter view/review music I enjoy. I get a lot of bands contacting me for inter views too, which has lead me to lots of hidden gems, I get so many through though and It’s impossible to reply to ever yone doing it completely on my own so I tend to contact those I would like to sor t out an inter view with or a blog piece. But that doesn’t mean don’t send me anything in the future! I love to see progression!
70
Do you think the current political sphere has a place in music for discussion amongs t ar tis ts? Oh absolutely! I think the current s tate of the UK at the moment has endless material to pr y upon. I lis ten to a lot of pos t-punk and you can hear the voices of the angr y youth who have lot’s of opinions about what’s going on and the musical soap-box plat form to voice it. There’s a vas t political landscape to be explored and a lot of uncer tainty as to what’s going on. I think there are a lot of ar tis ts touching on really impor tant rippling and damaging consequences in mental health as well. Music brings communities together so the vas t landscape to put the feelers out there and unders tand you’re not alone has been more impor tant than ever. I write a lot of poetr y myself and I have writ ten a lot recently about how we perceive the world and the ef fect that it can have internally. 71
How do you overcome awak wardness in inter views? I think conf idence is key to overcome awk wardness. If you k now the inter viewee inside out then the awk wardness should drift away. It’s always ner vous meeting new people, especially if your on your own or in unk nown territor y but being prepared to chat and get to k now who your inter viewing on a personal level is really impor tant. I have also found out great lit tle interes ting and fun nuggets of information by jus t talking about random things beforehand which I add during the inter view. It’s all about being personable really. Do you think you have to s tick to a music genre to appeal to your audience or do you choose what you like? Having a niche to your blog or brand is really useful because you become the f irs t por t of call for someone access information on musicians in that specif ic genre. For example some blogs focus on Indie music, some focus on EDM, some focus on Metal and so for th. Some bloggers focus on cer tain par ts of the countr y as well which is a great way to f ind out what’s going on in specif ic music scenes. I s tar ted of f focusing solely on rock and indie because I grew up lis tening non s top to musicians in those genres, I was such an ‘indie kid’, but my music tas te has become so much more eclectic in my 20’s that I opened Unique Lullaby up to all genres. I think a lot of my followers enjoy Indie, Rock and Punk but there’s an openness to dif ferent genres. I blog about anything from Pop to Electronica to Indie to Punk to Rock in all their forms because I decided that the ethic of my blog would be for me to inter view and write about what I personally enjoy. What is your all time favourite album and why? Oooh that’s a tough ques tion. I have so many answers for this and so many favorites. But if I had to pick one, The Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan by Bob Dylan. This was the f irs t album I ever picked up by Bob Dylan and I lis tened to it the whole way through on repeat for an entire week after buying it. There’s something really special about Bob Dylan’s s tor ytelling and hones ty, it’s jus t captivating. I lis ten to Dylan and it inspires me to write. I love the way his lyrics poetically wrap around each guitar melody, it’s so visual, he takes you into the hear t of the song. I really enjoy unconventional voices and something raw with at titude and personality and Dylan encompasses all of that.
72
What makes a good inter view? Research, Research, Research! Without a doubt this makes the bes t inter views and it also creates the right atmosphere. You have to remember who is watching the content, fans want to hear interes ting fopas of the band/ar tis t we might not see or k now about. When I prepare any inter view, I’ll dive into all depths of the internet to f ind ever ything from who produced the tracks and in which s tudio to interes ting social media pos ts. They get asked the same ques tions over and over again so it’s really impor tant to keep it fresh. Have something unique to ask. I spend hours researching for my inter views and I watch a lot of previous inter views to see what’s been asked before and what’s been missed. I also like to inject a bit of comedy into my inter views, before its even begun, of f camera I am get ting to k now the inter viewees and get warmed up. I’ve had a lot of people comment about how relaxed my inter views are and how comfor table it all looks. That’s exactly the atmosphere I want to go for. I want it to be informative but light hear ted. What challenges do you face being a freelancer? I think one of the bigges t challenges as a freelancer is earning money. I ver y much get caught up in the love for what I do sometimes and after completing a job, a small dose of worr y s tar ts to kick in as to where the next income will be. It is a full time job mentally and physically. I am cons tantly tr ying to s tay af loat by f inding work. I am ver y luck y to be a creator for BBC SESH because I am cons tantly writing and acting in sketches for the channel and it keeps me creatively af loat. I’m running a few projects at time. I write a blog, I’m arranging inter views, I’m applying for press passes at fes tivals, I’m editing, I’m writing and I’m at tending auditions. It’s a lot sometimes and it can be hard to f ind f ive minutes. It can look amazing to an outsider looking in at a project I may have jus t completed, but really that’s one job done and I need to f ind the next one. I describe it as a swan on a lake. It looks really ideal and together but underneath the feet are cons tantly moving to keep the head above the water. I appreciate ever y oppor tunity that comes my way and what I’ve learnt and been told, especially on days where it can all feel a bit too much, to look back on how far you’ve come. Sometimes you get a bit blinded by the present when you need to look at the journey.
If you could choose an era of music to live within what would it be? The 60’s! Ever ytime. I was introduced to the f ilm Quadrophenia when I was younger, fun fact for you, my great uncle Mike was a f ilm and TV editor back in the 60’s and 70’s and he edited the f ilm, which I love so much because it’s not ever y day you can say one of your family members edited one of your favourite f ilms, and I jus t fell in love with the mod subculture and the Sound track. I really want to hos t a video inter view with him soon when I can mus ter up some cash to head out to LA. I would love to see some live music in action from The Small Faces, The Beatles, Bob Dylan, The Kinks, The Rolling Stones, Chuck Berr y and especially the Velvet Underground live in their element. I could go on. There’s something really special about the mono recordings and the way they resonate . I get goosebumps. Steve Marriot t’s voice is one of my favorites especially in ‘I can’t Dance With You’ – The Small Faces and Chuck Berr y holds a big place in my hear t as the f irs t proper slice of Rock N’ Roll I got los t in.
Where do you spot talent and what is the process leading up to a session? It’s changed a lot over the years. At f irs t I would keep my eyes peeled at local gigs and local released and drop an email to the band to see if they will come to my lit tle conver ted utility area with a washing machine in the corner and a wall hanging s trung up at the back. I really like to hear a band live and to see how the could change the arrangements of some of their tracks for something s tripped back. I now have a conver ted shed in Nor th London where I f ilm all my Lullaby Sessions, Louise Schof ield tv sessions and I’ve been contacted by some lovely bands I’ve previously inter viewed from across the UK. It’s all about expanding the networks and who you click with. I love to work with bands and ar tis ts who I’ve built a repour with because it’s always really fun.
73
e h t f o t u o g n i k a e br t e s o l c s e i r t s indu 74
75
BEIN G A WOMAN
76
d e r e f f o t o g I l e t o h his room . r e b m nu
Trying to make a name for yourself in any industry is hard. It’s all about the chances you get and the people you know. This is something I have learnt a lot about, since becoming interested in the music industry. The industry is forever growing and developing and the people within it need to move with this growth. But sometimes, especially in the music industry. It is clear to see just how behind they are on the times, and how big the gender gap in work is.
‘I want to make a name for myself within the music industry, and I don’t want to do that by “banging” my way up the ladder’.
For years it has been a male dominated world, with women only known as fans and “groupies”. Even to this day, I have been told that I only want to get close to band members and that’s why I have followed the career path I have. I even emailed one of my favourite artists managers, in the hopes to learn from him. In return I got offered his hotel room number. It is getting better, obviously. Now a days you see more female roadies, managers and more. But still there is that under-lying tone of, this is a man’s world and women are just here for pleasure. I want to make a name for myself within the music industry, and I don’t want to do that by “banging” my way up the ladder.
Talking of making a name for myself, I have been told on multiple occasions I am lucky to have my name. Because apparently from the name Kari, you can’t guess I am a girl. Therefore meaning, I am more likely to be considered for roles. One girl I know set up a company, under a generic name.
She saw her job offers sky rocket, then when compared to her using her own name. Again, just proving how male dominated this world is. If even just a name can stop you getting interviews. The music industry is so tough to break into in the first place. Everywhere wants you to have years of experience, before you even get your first role. But again, it’s the question of how do I get experience without getting the opportunities. But in a way I am thankful for this, as it has made me toughen up to the world. Hearing No constantly, getting told I am so close just missing something and more. Just makes me more determined to pave my own way into the music industry. I want to be able to look back at my life one day and be pleased that I didn’t change who I was, just to fit in with the male standards of the industry. Don’t get me wrong, there is some amazing women making names for themselves and trail blazing the way for the rest of us. They are showing this world that just because you have a pair of boobs, doesn’t mean you are any less capable than someone with a set of balls. ARTICLE - KARI CLOUGH
77
78
79
80
FUCK
81
OFF
FUC K K O
FF F F
‘I am not going to be an old white man in a suit making executive decisions from behind a desk’. 82
Q. What challenges do you think you will face going into this cut throat industry ?
Q. who are your biggest inspirations in life and career wise? In terms of career, so its music it would be Lauren Hill and Adele. I grew up loving Adele as a young child and loving her voice and with Lauren, basically her album changed my life. It is kind of the reason I am here now, talking to you. Everywhere I go in life I always bring the album with me. For example I am travelling America this summer and every time I saw an amazing place I wanted to see like golden gate bridges, its like one of my biggest child hood things to see, I made sure I smoked a spliff and listened to Lauren whilst it happened. So every time I have a big moment in life the album is played and it is a part of me. In life I have two, I would like to kind of weirdly have the kind of career Oprah Winfrey has, I think she is such an incredible human being. There is this kind of mindfulness spiritual teacher called Eckhart Tolle and in life my biggest desire is to have his mindset. He is an incredible man.
My biggest and only concern is that I think it is quite evident how much women are disrespected and oppressed and objectified in the industry and I think when you are a camp, flamboyant gay man you’re kind of stuck in a very unique space and not always in a good way situation because you are kind of too emasculating to be a man but you are actually a man so you are neither a woman. So when it comes down to it you are kind of treated like a woman but you are not a woman, and women wont look at you that way because women are not closed minded like that, but then they naturally look at you like objects like wow its great to have a gay best friend. So my scare of it is is that I will be treated like I’m a woman just because I am flamboyant but regardless I think women are bad bitches I think I am a bad bitch and so I don’t think we will continue to allow it. The challenge will be is I think I will constantly be undervalued for what I can do. I have to work twice as hard I believe. Which I am very happy to do.
I did n’t r until ealis then e of mi the l srepr evel esent there ation is fo r gay peopl e.
Q. Who would be your dream musician to manage?
For me right now it would be something I’ve listened to for 30 seconds and had goosebumps over my whole body. Preferably someone like a young urban R n B soulful singer that would be ideal. Someone like Jorja Smith or SZA. Q. What is your favourite genre of music?
Thats hard. Different genres represent different times in my life so I grew up loving kind of all disco soul diva powerhouse music. Im so flamboyant I love pop but as I got older I found I love hip hop and rock music but maybe hip hop and R n B are my favourites. Its probably easier to say I don’t like grime or heavy rock. Q. Do you feel like being gay may hinder how seriously you are taken when entering the music industry?
To be brutally honest with you I think in terms of whats going on in the industry it can to a certain extent but I believe I am a very dominant person, I believe my passion for music speaks many volumes to many people and I truly believe if I don’t let that hinder it, it wont and to anyone who thinks it should I will tell them directly to fuck off.
Q. So do you care more about expression and creativity than the monetary value that comes from managing and making music? Absolutely. I don’t care if i’m earning 300 million or 30 thousands a year or less. For me its more about the fact I think music is my calling. I discovered it at a young age and theres nothing else I care about the same. I love fashion but for me music is all I live and breathe. I cant live without music. So I look at music not as a career choice but as my calling. I believe my purpose of life will truly be fulfilled by watching those moments in music happen when I can watch my artist win a grammy or I can stand side of stage at Glastonbury or I can help design an art work for someone or hold my artist when they’re in tears that they’ve got a number one. They’re my dreams. Q. Why do you think music is important to a lot of people? Music is important for everyone whether people realise it or not. It is one of the biggest unifying symbols there is in humanity. I think it represents every type of culture seen throughout humanity even societal forms as well. I think in ways people don’t realise it can effect your mood, your day, the way you dress. Music is the soundtrack to your life. Me waking up in the morning and hearing the wind and the birds that is part of it. There is a guy called Milanne that did Frank Oceans album they used smacking sofas and closing curtains as part of production and that is the thing a sound may be a sound but a sound is music. Anything I hear is music to me it just depends how you use it.
Q. A lot of songs are written to represent heterosexual relationships, how do you think the music industry could improve to represent LGBTQ+? This is a really good question, it is one that stands out for me. I love Sam Smith, and the reason I love him is because he didn’t try to make it a gay anthem but he wrote an album about loving a man and brought up things even I as a gay man have experienced which is something I haven’t heard much in other music. I didn’t realise until then the level of misrepresentation there is for gay people, so its kind of more like there definitely is a market for it, I don’t know if those kinds of people aren’t discovered or not given the opportunity, or if the musics on that level where people who are dominating the charts are on because I don’t think it comes down to just gay people who aren’t represented in gay music, I think that there is a trafficking of popular music that you cannot get out of, if you want to be commercially successful but I do think there needs to be more. I think there is more out there for lesbians in terms of punk rock music but not enough people like Sam Smith there needs to be more of that and thats what I want to try and find.
83
I’m an R&B / Soul singer & songwriter based in Southampton. I choose music as a creative outlet as it’s something I’ve been heavily involved with since a young age, I started performing young and studied musical theatre at a drama school in London since 13 so music has always been a big part of my life. It’s a kind of therapy for me and allows me to have an open conversation with my audience. Q. Why do you express yourself through putting music into the world? A. I feel by expressing myself musically it allows me to not only allow my creative side to flourish but gives me a platform to affect other people through my music, which is really a huge part of why I do this. Q. What struggles do you face being a female singer in the music industry? A. I think
and sometimes seen as less important as males in the music industry. Sometimes people will take advantage of their status/power against you as an artist, which I feel happens more to women in general within music. Q. How has your previous experiences in music shaped who you are today? A. I’ve had lots of great experiences in Music so far which has helped shaped me as an artist, but the things which have affected me most are the rejections within music as it’s those which thicken your skin and teach you how the industry truly works.
84
85
86
87
88
Q. What journey did you have to go on to find your current style and voice? A. I’ve always been really expressive through style, fashion and always try to be individual. So for me it’s not been so much of a journey of my style it’s been more about self believe and certainty which allows me to maintain feeling comfortable looking unique and different to others. Q. How would you describe your personal style? A. I don’t like to bracket myself into a specific style really, I tend to dress quite casual even when performing. Comfort is most important to me in that sense and I do love a tracksuit. Q. What are the themes you’re most interested about in music and why do you choose to write about these? A. I love writing about love, being in love, falling out of love etc. It allows me to speak about experiences and also is something all can relate too. Although most of my recent songs have ended up about sex/ lust and desire, which we all have too! Q. Where did your inspiration come from when writing ‘put it on me’ ? A. Put it on me came about after a break up, It was mainly focused on how when you split with someone you tend to either have a slip up where you sleep together or something. This song is mainly about hating that person for the hurt but still having sexual desires towards them.
89
Q. If you were stranded on an island what is one album you would take and why? A. It would have to be Nao – Saturn . It maintains my positive mind In the worst of times so I think it would be a good choice. Q. Can you name four musicians that you believe are ones to watch this year? A. Four musicians to watch this year would have to be Etta Bond (although successful this is her year to blow), AK, Miraa May & Richard Fairlie. Q. Who and what inspires you when writing music? A. Life inspires me when writing music, it’s all the things which create mine and yours day to day which makes me want to write. I don’t just write from my perspective I write about other peoples experiences too so it’s literally just a case of whatever is going on in my life at that time. Q. You are a lover of R n B did you try and mould yourself into this genre of music or did it come naturally? What are your thoughts about R n B? A. R&B has always been with me, it’s all I ever listened to growing up in terms of genre. I’ve always been fascinated with vocal riffs and runs which are hugely used within R&B, luckily my vocal natural followed this style as I developed as an artist and it all happened organically. Q. What was your reaction in 3 words to being picked for BBC introducing? A. Excited, Thankful & Proud.
Q. What can we expect to see from you this year? A. This year I’m gonna be putting out more music, more visuals and more shows. So lot’s of active music work & pushing to reach a wider audience nationwide. Perhaps a tour Is on the cards! Q. What words of inspiration and empowerment would you give to female singer songwriters/ musicians that may be feeling uninspired by the knock backs they face in the music industry? A. The only thing I can ever say to those is keep going, it’s not a reflection on your talent If you get knock backs. The best of the best have them too, you have to ensure you learn from them and realise where you maybe could have done better and how you could deal with knock backs better. Try to not let it get you too down and everyone has their own time, it’s a marathon not a race. Q. Social media has allowed people to create their own version of themselves to present to the world, do you feel like social media is a good or bad thing? Also in terms of musicians getting there image and voices heard? A. Social media is both a blessing and a curse, I love it. It allows me to have conversations with people I won’t come across day to day and gives fans an insight to my life. However I also think it can cause a lot of self-doubt and is easy to compare your life to an online one, which is unrealistic.
Q. You performed at the Brit awards after party, what was that experience like? A. The Brits After Party was a great experience for me, it gave me a platform to perform to industry pro’s and network in the heart of the music business so it was a great opportunity for me and a fun one too!
90
‘It is easy to compare your life to an online one, which is unrealistic’.
Q. Do you have any strong activist opinions on feminism, brexit, our current socio-political sphere you would like to add? A. I try to stay up to date with all that going on world wide, politics always has a special place in my heart as when I left drama school I was thinking of studying in that field. Brexit is a disaster, but it’s happening so the best thing moving forward in my opinion is to try and see where the silver lining is, if there is one at all, and hopefully the public learn from this huge mistake. I Also work closely with campaigning for mental health conversations, educating people about it and how we can support people who suffer which is all hugely important to me. There’s so much more I could speak about for activism, but it all kinda pulls the same message in from me which is be nice to one another, support each other and stand up for who you are and what you believe in!
see where the
91
e
‘You think rappers are really hard yeah, and not that emotional but they are the most emotional people you’ll ever meet, they’re like little babies inside’.
n eo
w
ho
ds r o w , to s g ic in nce e k us th a ie m s m per ll ts in ur t i o a I y it, y ex Its nd. e o . ib t t e, m rap sou cr n s a e lif , t f ic k s de ? i m p y c c e u a el t m b spe ba wa yo fore t n u i t m d e l g ly, i ox g s a abo oo e a n t i ou it b l a s k ea t b lon s t , b t lik w d ? h a y t k u T l r o . n r bea e a o ju t o ta az z no y ow hea h s s u u t g sic l, j , its to al or f to cam at bo to ls . H ’t n i e u u d r f Q sn an l h s t f sed guy r th or a use gi of pp y m oul ally e a a ha u t f e e s r r m n s ju I er ov it s. I hen r t s e ts e. M Jus t ng t. I c i m wa use oth ap ing ino f. T o so up , yr A. ym ty. assi cke f t a l n r r io g it bec this to n do om s tu at ded it. r h cie mp bra u s s n yo re ppi ime en sed bee at D and t th I en out so co op p o e ra t rt th I u ly ed le bou en ab d en p h d a t e t d y s hi ut ted s th an and on or k s t g a , th ght ha u o s e r e u o n s b g nd ut y a s ta pa in ox . I’v I w fre riti ay ho .W a n k t s g w Q s bo e in n I to or at b me hen uld d w me he g h i s g le a r I he ng w e y w w o te so t s t . h s i b w h a r w r ed I ta in ha A t h a ld ty g fo s g t t s i u n i w a b in b me I ou fu ar t so I s ss w ro a free rit it w w th so hen e c like I s t and so gue see e w t le ty ould n’t bu is n ew got go w d h ng r s, ve hat s I to s s h e an aki yea dri e t ling ng ou re d I c wa lock d t te n ing, y f o e k I a i s I m o r y f li fe e s s, an re a b I h wr rit es s c t w live tuf the th w e e y n o oc item wh itel the d to got pr g? de d s te her r n p e n e s an eva ing a an ces def i and ne so I th so l s I e nd ve up ro s r it t, t i ew ha ick a p wa ato sh shi se ha a n y e all to p ugh ere s tin lik old . W ing e a s h r y Q rit ’t ple hro o t ocr wa m . n w s o t g r I o do pe nt ths a p nd sin o g I e t A. get I w on I’m p a t to dy id at. ix m ike g u an rea th e s of l min ’t w s t lik nd co idn lmo ki ow s I d a sh ng bum so al an m so
‘They say we should be looking out for ISIS but life is too priceless to be caught up in this stupid dumb crisis’
92
@ant1_s
Q. What gets under your skin about the music industry?
IT’S SUCH A SALTY BUSINESS
A. Especially Southampton its such a salty business. Theres been so much shit recently, snakey people, they’re really jealous. You think rappers are really hard yeah, and not that emotional but they are the most emotional people you’ll ever meet, they’re like little babies inside. I did The Four Owls gig recently, which was a sell out show, sick gig I was supporting. Someone posted a status that I had bit of beef with because I didn’t put him on a show, saying ‘its so annoying that the most under rated rappers are getting the gigs’ and tagged me. But you cant say shit like that when you aren’t speaking to the venues. A lot of people think that like because they have 1000 followers they think they’re famous, they aren’t humble. Q. What annoys you about our current society and political sphere?
A. One of my songs called Brave, so the lyrics say ‘they say we should be looking out for Isis but life is too priceless to be caught up in this crisis’. So yeah fuck the system , we’ve just got to wake up to the bullshit because the systems dead. I’ve got a song called conscious vibes which is about that as well that got played on BBC introducing. So yeah the systems a bit dead really, I kind of realised in 2015 when I was in uni I woke up to all the bullshit that was going on. I started to write about it in my songs and yeah one got played on BBC introducing which is pretty good! Other than that I started moving on to story telling, more mental health.
I’ve been in bad places, nearly killing myself, super depressed not able to get out of bed but now i’m here on the stage and I’m trying to show people you can get out of it. Life of a creative.
‘What do we do when the powers handed to a few on a different view’
h c u m o o t , g n i y l t n i ‘Ia , s w e n e h t n o g n i y d g n i y r c h so muc ’ d e s u f n o c o s y d o b y ever
Q. How do you think mental health can be channelled through music? Do you think its an escape/release?
A. Escape and a release really, I do smoke quite a lot of weed so it does become an escape I use that to write my music. Its like a creative outlet for me. So I think that goes hand in hand with mental health really, like when you’re in a shit place I don’t think it specifically causes mental health issues but it can do if you have this predisposition about it. If you’re in a shit mental health state I think any kind of drug just doesn’t help. Alcohol, weed whatever it exacerbates your emotions. Mental health is a big thing for me, I’m putting on events in Orange Rooms called Lo-fidelity nights for mental health. Its just a comfy evening for lo - fi hip hop. I’ve done mental health talks for people. Q. Who inspires you and why?
A. I have a lot of inspirations really, musically Logics quite a good one he did that song about suicide 1-800 it got no.1 in the US. The first rap album I bought was Eminem. My grand dad, I didn’t have a dad when I was growing up so I had no father figure, he committed suicide when I was young which is shit so the father figure was my grand dad, but he treated me like shit he used to hit me and stuff like that when I was living with my grandparents. My mum went to uni to become a lawyer so she’s my inspiration and my Grand dad is in some ways because he taught me how to drum, taught me how to play chess and stuff like that. But my mums a big inspiration, I wrote a song about her and music video which was a story telling one which I did for her birthday, mummy’s boy really we get on really well she’s like my best friend. Q. What can we expect to see this year? I am setting up a record label thats going to set up hip hop events. Its called F.D.A.T records FDAT. Which means frequently distant always together. Its kind of like fuck that like fuck the system but theres a conscious meaning behind it as well.
93
94
95
96
Could you briefly describe the music making process? I always start with drums to get a steady rhythm as it’s the backbone of the music. I play with different melodies and once I find the right one whether it’s a subtle chilled feel or an amped and vibey tune, I then experiment with the sounds to fit that melody. I try to incorporate unique effects as well as sounds that are well recognised eg: trumpets and electric guitars, even smashing glass. Never forget about the lead too. It’s a singular sound that comes in most of the time after the first chorus and is meant to add a bit of swing and more bounce to your tunes. Make sure you have the foundations down. Then just have fun with it. Layers, layers, layers.
97
‘My names Nathan and I’m a Jungle dnb / Hip Hop producer. Music means everything to me and has helped through difficult times. Whether it’s listening to music, playing an instrument or making beats on a computer I have always surrounded myself with sound. It’s my passion, its my release, it’s my energy’. 98
How do you think jungle music has evolved and where do you see it heading? I think Jungle music and DnB has changed massively in the past 10 years, as it has been influenced techniques from other music genres eg: reggae guitars on a jungle/ dnb track. This has strengthened technicality of the music production process. I feel it’s heading in the right direction and gaining popularity as more well-known artists such as IAMDDB and Maverick Sabre are making appearances on the Jungle/dnb scene. Considering drum and bass originated from jungle and you more so hear of dnb events what are your thoughts on both genres? Do you think one is more popular and why? I love DnB, not as much as jungle. However, it is more popular with the younger culture nowadays. Different genres of electronic music are favoured by different age groups. I believe the relationship between these genres and their co-existence has been necessary for the evolution of that type of music. You need one for the other. Do you like the element of exclusivity that comes with Jungle music and how would you describe Jungle music from your perspective? Yes I do like the exclusivity that comes with Jungle music. When I hear Jungle I’m taken back to my roots of where I grew up. For me personally, my perspective on the genre is that it makes me feel nostalgic and at home. However, from a general consumers perspective it would be described as hype. How would you describe the underground niche following/crowd that Jungle music entices what are the people like who listen to this music and go to these events? To be fair it’s a surprising range, even met a couple that were around 55/60 years old. [Quote] ‘We were listening to this before you were born!’ Big ups to them hope they’re well and still skanking. Jungle originated in cities like London and Bristol, what are the different reactions and atmosphere you receive when playing it in other cities, how do they differentiate from their birth place?
Do you think there’s a bad stigma against DnB raves? Unfortunately yes. DnB raves are commonly associated with drugs and alcohol. Which is a shame as I believe you don’t need to be intoxicated to enjoy the music. I can vouch for this as I’ve actually gone to raves sober and enjoyed the experience even more. Sweaty but worth it. You are a hip hop and DnB producer what made you express yourself through these genres? I’ve always had an ear for Hip hop as I grew up around Soulful music like Erykah Badu, Outkast and Marvin Gaye … With dnb / jungle its funk and soul, all the up tempo gave me a buzz like no other that I have carried with me throughout my life. Who are your major influences? Where do I even start… Blues artists like BBking and Gary B.B. Coleman. As well as, Electronic artists like ShyFX and Lenzman. A lot of Reggae and soul singers and musicians such as, Bob Marley, Chronixx, Nina Simone… Basically a whole mash (see what I did there) of influences from practically every genre of music. What are your favourite and least favourite venues to perform at? Don’t have a favourite or least favourite. I’ve performed in youth centres and venues that hold up to 1500 people roughly. Both experiences where equally as good but in different ways and to be honest as long as the people are happy and dancing I consider that a successful night. It’s Not about the venue. Although, saying that performing at the 02 Academy Brixton is a dream of mine. Wouldn’t turn down a gig there. #Goals
I’ve never played in Bristol However, would love to one day. Playing in London was an awesome experience as each track got the reaction that I wanted. I’ve also played in Marlborough and Cambridge which was a lot of fun. The response I received however, was slightly different as the audience for Jungle music in these cities compared to London isn’t as big.
99
100
Where do you find inspiration and how do you channel that into your music? I find inspiration in everything around me from nature, family and friends to random moments sitting on the train and listening to the steady rhythm of the wheels on the traintrack. I’d then record it and use it as a sidechain for drums. I also sometimes go about town and record ambience of the people talking, walking and going about their days and using that as atmosphere. What can we expect to see from you this year, what plans are in the pipeline? This year I’m going to complete all my unfinished music and I’ve just released my Jungle and DnB EP. I’m also going to be releasing a remix album later this year, its going to be a live one. I hope to play in every club in Southampton by December and start branching out into major venues in London and other larger cities. Can you name 3 musicians/rappers/bands that you think are ones to watch this year? My boy Klinical. He’s a DnB producer from Southampton who’s now touring around the UK and Europe. A band called Signals, another local Southampton band who’re amazingly talented. And In:Most two DnB producers who have just been signed to Hospitality and are close friends of mine who have helped me with producing over the years. Where can people find your music and what should they search to find it? Mainly on Soundcloud at the moment as I want to give out my music for free. To find my tunes search Kuma Music on Soundcloud or follow my Instagram page ‘Kumamusicofficial ‘ for updates. How does music let you express yourself? I find it difficult to express myself verbally. However, communicating through sound came easy to me. Music allows me to simply feel then I lay it all out on the track.
101
ducer o r p c i s u m XENO is a ng, i k o W m o r f originally ith w g n i t n e m i xper e y l t n e r r u e c H . s s a B n Drum k r a d n p e de e k a m y l l a u t en hopes to ev h a t i w e n e c s e waves in th lf. e s m i h o t e style uniqu ing s a e l e r f l e Currently s ud. o l c d n u o S h g music throu
Q.What do you love about the Drum n Bass genre? A. I just love the drums and the bass honestly. Plus those vibes you can’t get from anywhere else. Q. Why do you use soundcloud to release your music? A. Soundcloud is a calm place just to chuck your music out and see what happens. It’s free to upload your tracks which is ideal for new artists because you can put out a nice enough amount of music which gets more people involved in what you’re doing. hat is ? And w ic s u m ing produc o t in t e g did you ands Q. How ss? rding b o c e e r c o o ch I et int the pr ing to g to do music te e o g s a om kIw llege make s d to thin I went to co o e t s u le to I b . n A being a en I jus t got in ut whe p b u it d h n s s. Th uld e and for a hat I co ing on my one as pure shite t d e s li I rea jus t sit t e t ime and I w uni to be fair. ew ic s u m t to par ing n mad in my s ably unt il I go someth ade a g e in k c a u d m b pro you , pro nIm g while r y t ime oint was whe n e v lo e e g ic n in reward s t rewarding p ed as well lol. o think it’s m y lik me the people ac tuall r fo t u b r at othe track th
Q. Where did your inspiration for guttersnipe ep come from? And where did the inspo come from for the flava? A. I get inspiration from Hip Hop just as much as I do Drum N Bass, I sample from hip hop all the time and in Guttersnipe EP. The EP was really just about getting more music uploaded for people. I’m still experimenting with styles and ‘The Flava’ is going to be more of what I’m about. On the deeper side with more focus on tasty percussion.
102
Q. What do you love about the crowd drum n bass brings in? A. I feel like the DnB crowd gets a bad rep sometimes but it’s all love in the rave. Everyone’s there for the music and it shows. Q. Who are your biggest influencers in life? A. My dad has influenced what I do in a massive way. He’s had some incredibly hard times but has always picked himself up, now it’s looking like it might pay off and that’s just an in your face reminder to get the fuck out of bed and work towards something. My close family all influence me to keep doing what I love which is a blessing.
at
hat W . Q s? rave
inion
op our
is y
u, I
yo u do
ecre on r ok.
w
lo on’t
ng a duci
and
s drug l a ion
os t
dm u f in
o yo
kd trac
cki-
t lu y bu
r ro theo of p c t i r s a u ld at m ich p h d o wou o g o Q. W nging? h h w uc le day n m truth. chal e a e r b e fo ever ll me th t is t n r a e e r v A. I’ ear s t othe . e y n o nice e y ly m b t t e uld s pr m u co e o e y f ife s Q. I ? g’s l g e o it b yd ogg D p noo S . A
o A. Y
Q. As an up and coming producer and musician what would b a dream venue? A. Imagine Lions Den at Boomtown all full and such. Q. What do you think are the biggest cha;lenges up and coming musicians and producers face? A. For me it’s building a fan base from nothing because when you start to release music you’re basically sending it to people you know and relying on them sharing it to get plays. It’s only when you get enough followers that it becomes easier and starts to do well on its own but that point is quite hard to get to and can take a long time. Making money from music is hard and the number of hours you put into it to sometimes get nothing back can be demotivating. Q. The music ondustry is pretty cut throat how do you stay fresh and relevant when there is so much competition? A. Most importantly you have to do your own thing and experiment with your own sound, if you try to sound like other artists you’ll just blend in with everyone else. Also, if you try to be something you’re not it looks too fake.
103
104
105
TOP ENSORING UR UCKING RT
STOP G N I R CENSO OUR G N I K FUC 106
IN OR NS RT CE A G OP IN ST CK FU
G
R
OU
107
@BARELYBROWNILLUSTRATIONS
108
109
110
111 @BARELYBROWNILLUSTRATIONS
112 @BARELYBROWNILLUSTRATIONS
‘I’m Jamie, hi. I make art. I don’t necessarily believe I have a specific aesthetic or point of view in my art. I truly believe that we are all art and with that being said, whatever I create, anything that comes from me, it’s just a projection of everything I am and possess. While some of my stuff has an intentional political statement, the rest is completely unintentional. I truly do what I do because I believe it’s the right way for me. For example,
I I I I I I I I I
AM AM AM AM AM AM AM AM AM
ART ART ART ART ART ART ART ART ART
Q. How d o you feel about ero t ic ar t? A. It’s li t. S uper amaz ing being exp lored thro to have something s o taboo ugh colou humour. It r and sh ’s interes t in apes and g as well b have there ecause dif fe own relat io rent people nships with to see it t hrough so s e x so to be a meone els ble e’s eyes is quite cool. Q. What in spires you to make y our ar t? A. I am ar t. I’ve a lways felt as a per like whate son need ver I emit to be see n through creat ing Q. How w ould you d escr ibe yo ur ar t? A. FEMINIS T. ODD. UNCONV ENTIONA L. STUPID Q. What is your fav . our ite me dium to u se and wh A. I’m s t ill y? on a jour n ey to f igur a medium ing that ou to limit me t. I don’t lik . I often ge res tr ic ted e t frus trate so at the d when I fe moment I’ mixed me el m exper im dia and illu e n t s in t g with rat ion. I h dif ferent m ope to us ediums th e roughout my creat iv var ious e jour ney Q. You often talk about yo and your ur menta jour ney o l health f self lov how do e on soc you cha ial media nnel this into you r ar t? A. Ar t is s o subjec t iv e in the se to heal or nse that y express. I ou can use think my a want to be it r t ref lec ts or the pote t h e p nt ial per so er son I wor ld is su n I could be ch a daun co t ing place be and ex that it’s ha me. The press your rd to trus t self. Especia health it is lly dealing ex tremely with ment frus trat ing of your sh al want ing to ell but hav b in r g e ak out I often c wor r y blo reate hyp c k t h e o p por tunit y. er-feminis egos of m t, hyper-s yself and exual alt display th my way o er at to the f living m w o y best lif think abo e without rld. It©s ut all the having to shit that comes wit h reality.
I AM ART 113
d n a y t u a e b w a r d n a Realness s i h t e e s o t t e y e imperfection. I’v d n a t r a n i s u c o f n become a mai media. used to communicate Q. Do you think ar t can be fec t women ef fec tively in socio/poli tical issues that ef our current sphere? it fur ther seeps itself into A. I think it has. I hope that neration is very much mains tream media. Our ge marr ying aesthet ic, dependent on visuals. I think eye wi th political discussion e th to ing as ple g hin et m so ink messages in ar t one th I . ty cie so t fec af ly ve ssi will ma d a wider audience he ac re s ha s sm ini fem on as of the re so quick ly. see more from the ar t/ to e lik u yo uld wo t ha W . Q portray women? media world and how they lusivi ty. We are seeing A. Ever yone talks about inc t in mains tream media. Ar tis more of it but not enough realness and raw beauty a e ur pt ca le vil Sa ny Jen e lik see this become a main to t ye e I’v . ion ct rfe pe im and ders tand it’s hard though focus in ar t and media. I un obsessed wi th air brushed, because we are very much you have the opportunit y polished visuals and when rse wi th a paintbrush ive un w ne ole wh a te ea cr to g that’s your idea of hin et m so te ea cr to t no rd it’s ha gets bit braver. perfect ion. I’d like to see is y to people that report Q. What do you want to sa your ar t on social media? ange people’s sensitivity to A. You know, you can’t ch hat hurts is that some topics and certain visuals. W iat ing it for what it is. They people ac t wi thout apprec .I ls and judge based on that ua vis e th at k loo to se oo ch jus t annoying that they it’s , ws vie eir th t ec sp re to have d unfollow but choose an ay aw k loo to ce an ch have a ult because they have the to make an ar tis ts life dif fic lik ing was a thing. I never power to. It’s kind like if dis lpful. found that necessary or he ur life that began your yo in t en om m a s wa t ha Q. W essively? journey of self love so expr t I feel like removing things A. It’s a cons tant journey bu e me joy was important giv n’t did at th life y m m fro negatively impacted my the rest was seeing how it uld fix that. It’s all small mental health and how I co (or lack there of) I relapse adjus tments to your rout ine in how I value myself helps cons tantly but seeing results rsion of self love. me keep pushing for my ve
114
Q. What do you think about contemporary feminism? A. Yo, feminisms is everywhere rn and it’s leaking into the mainstream without people knowing. It’s in songs, books, film and art. It’s crazy amazing. If anything it’s become a bit of a trend which to be honest, without actually educating yourself and branding yourself just for the aesthetic is worrying to me, just because it can coming from a very disingenuous or even uninformed place I feel like that’s one of the reasons why feminism has a bad name but you know what, the fact that women are valuing themselves more is the entire point anyways and as long as you’re doing that, no matter how you approach it you’re lifting women up
115 @BARELYBROWNILLUSTRATIONS
@BARELYBROWNILLUSTRATIONS
116
117
Developing my research into psychedelic feminism, I create fluorescent, large-scale, messy paintings of the female form. My work refers to commonly shared experiences of women, such as periods and cat-calling. Although my work deals with serious topics, I bring them to light in a fun, empowering way’.
Artist Ella Rogers - ‘I’m Ella Rodgers, a London-born artist currently residing in Southampton, UK, where I am due to graduate my BA (Hons) Fine Art degree in 2020. My art practice mostly surrounds feminisms, appreciating all types of person and learning to love yourself. It is important that I make art about these things as they are all things that have had an effect on myself and many other people close to me.
118
I think men can be feminists. Feminism is not about hating men or wanting to be better than men. It is about gender equality, Q. Can you tell me abit about the concept of the work? A. This work is a response to the unattainably high standards of beauty and ‘perfection’ set by society, especially in western culture. It is an attempt to show that women are all different from one another - no one person fits a ‘mould’ - but that should not mean that we don’t feel worthy or beautiful, because we all are. Q. Why are you a feminist? A. I am a feminist because I believe that in general, women are treated differently in society to men, and we often find ourselves in unfair situations just because of our gender. Q. Do you think men can be feminists? A. Of course I think men can be feminists. Feminism is not about hating men or wanting to be better than men. It is about gender equality, and both men and women should be supporting that. Q. What do you think about women who say they’re not feminists? A. I think this is a difficult question as I believe every woman is entitled to their own political/societal views, however, when a woman claims to be ‘anti-feminist’, I often think it is because they are confused with the feminism movement and what it actually stands for. To be a feminist is to believe in equality, and surely everyone, especially women should want this? Q. Why did you use the vulva in your artwork, what was the importance? A. I decided to use vulvas in my artwork as this piece is about showing diversity through body-confidence, particularly through sex. In mainstream pornography, each woman’s vulva tends to look the same, and its such an unhealthy message to be sending to young women because in reality they are all so different! I always think of the vulva to be like a flower, no one exactly the same but all equally beautiful.
Q. At the exhibition you had to walk through a curtain and use a torch to shine onto the art pieces which were painted in neon colours to show the full piece, was there a reason for this level of interactivity and mediums used? A. I decided to use a torch behind a curtain because it felt more personal to the viewer in my opinion. Sex is usually intimate and quite a private aspect of people’s lives, so I felt that my work would relate more to the viewer if they were in the dark with my piece, and taking control of how they were viewing my work. As for the UV reactive and fluorescent paint, thats just my personal style as an artist, I love using bold and bright colour. Q. Do you think art is an important platform for highlighting issues women have for just being a woman? A. I think art is an extremely important platform for expressing all kinds of issues. For me, making art is a way of voicing my viewpoints and struggles as a human, and it is a way for me to confront viewers with typically uncomfortable subjects, such as self-confidence in sex. Q. Do you have any personal experiences which have made you express female empowerment through your art and what would you say to these people now? A. wouldn’t say that I have any experiences in particular, only that I still struggle with my appearance and my self-love. Each day I try to practice what I preach and remember my beauty, but I think I make a lot of my artwork for myself and to remind me what it is to be a confident, happy young woman of today. Q. With feminism being about equality why did you use the female form? A. I only use the female form in my work as my practice as a whole is about my experiences as a woman. Feminism is about gender equality for sure, but I’m exploring my own personal path of feminism through myself and my experiences as a female.
119
120
Stanley Cush is a Southampton based illustrator whose work often is inspired by skate culture, music, social issues and politics. These works were made based on the demographic of Trumps voters during his election.
121
Brexit insp ired me to sculpt The It’s the on resa May. ly thing I seem to h at the mo ear about ment whe n I switch or radio. on the t v Plas t icine allows yo lines and u to sculp crevices r t eally easil exaggerat y, creat in ed feature g s and expr many pol essions. I fe el itici
ans have similar a l Similar s ook to them. ilver hai r, turned up noses a n d harsh Which is gr lines. eat for us c ar toonis ts
to play wit h. Q. What a re your th oughts on Brexit? A. My th oughts on Brexit are should be remain. I fe that we el that alth are plent y ough there o engaged w f younger people that are ith the ins and outs I can eas ily of Brexit disengaged see how they can become from wha t is goin g on…
Especial ly when you see the sea of g rey hair in the house o
amount of o f common s and the lder people who have v it’s easy to o ted to leave feel your o pinion won ’t be heard . Q. Your in s ta capt ion a mons ter ‘help! I’ve c ’ r there mor takes on a sat ir ical to eated e depth to the use of ne, is ‘mons ter’ ? the word A. I guess I mak ing he felt a li t tle like Frank e r managed head. But Frankens t ns tein to e inside and create something p in out. ret t ier
D E T A E R C
a
122
www.edielawrence.com https://instagram.com/edielawrence/ https://vimeo.com/user26407715
A. I tend to pick faces with interesting features. Sunken eyes, big cheeks, pointy features, wrinkles, etc. Initially I sculpt the face out of kitchen foil and then add plasticine on top. This saves money and makes it lighter. Q. Your illustrations also make quite the statement, where do these thought processes come from? A. I like to go between drawing and animation/sculpting. It means I can constantly be creating. I never get sick of both. Q. If you were in front of all the main politicians at the moment like Corbyn and Teresa May what 3 words would you say to each of them? A. SORT. IT. OUT. Q. You’ve created animations for music videos like Viper Fish by Goat Girl and Hotel Lux what is the process when curating the concept to the final out come? & how long does it take to perfect? A. The time on each job varies. This completely depends on the budget. It all starts out with a treatment and storyboard. Then a few pints with the bands / them dropping in to the studio. Then I get sculpting / animating / editing. With a few breakdowns in between.
EDIE LAWRENCE
Q. How do you begin the art process of moulding different faces?
Q. Aside from brexit and the mess that is politics at the moment, you’ve explored many avenues of art including animation, sculpture, illustration etc, which is your favourite and why? A. I’m not sure I have a favourite but at the moment my work seems to be swinging towards animation. I like that I can bring my drawing and sculpture together as well as to life. It’s also fun to work with sound and other creatives e.g musicians and script writers. Q. What would you say to someone that wants to pursue art as a career but maybe doubts their ability or the stability in terms of income and opportunity in/of the art industry? A. I’m still young so I have these issues myself. I think every artist (that doesn’t come from a wealthy background) has doubts about stability but it’s their passion for what they do that overrides that. It’s not a straight forward / easy path to take and you’ll probably have to be working a few different jobs to make ends meet for a while. I think the worry is when working to earn enough for rent/bills takes over your time to create. That’s why it’s so tough to be a creative in London (that doesn’t live with their parents). Q. What is a common response that you receive off people seeing your art? And what is your response? A. Mostly positive. A few have said it makes them uneasy but I’m okay with that.
123
Q. What was the publics reaction to the contrasting figures on your art piece? A. The public were shocked by the contrasting figures shown in the piece. Most were aware of incidents that had happened in the parks but were surprised by the crime data. Q. How do you feel about the responses you’ve had on the art piece? A. All the responses from my piece were positive and the people who commented on my piece knew it was about awareness and change, which I am greatly appreciative about, as they truly understood the essence of my piece. Q. What was your initial feeling when finding these dates? A. The dates gathered from the Daily Echo were all rapes that happened to women, therefore represented on a dress. I decided to show my research on a garment because, as the artist, I took a needle, pierced and manipulated the fabric, leaving a mark on the garment representing the non consensual violent act. However, carefully spending a long time hand sewing each date meant they were each valued. Q. People are being taught ‘not to be raped, rather than not to rape’ what is your opinion on this statement? A. This is victim blaming. Police say to not wear headphones, to not walk alone, to not be on their phones but this is not telling people not to rape. This is a disgusting violent act. Don’t rape someone. End of. Q. Often it is stereotyped that men are the perpetrators and women are the victims, what do you think about this?
JoJo’s art piece looks at the issue of rape within Southampton, as it is an increasing problem. The carefully hand sewn dates on the front and back of the dress presents the information we see in the public eye, dates from the Daily Echo. The label then contrasts this and shows the crime date of rapes taken place in the same time 124 scale.
Q. Considering the contrast in dates, do you believe victims are stigmatised or discouraged from speaking out? A. When researching for my previous ‘Slut Walk’, I did find victim blaming quotes on how women should dress, mainly from policemen. I used these quotes as boards incorporated in the walk to try show how obscene they were.
A. Unfortunately, women are oppressed, living in a patriarchal society, men have been taught that they hold power over women and therefore we see more men being perpetrators and oppressing women with such a violent act. We need more men to step up against this matter and to end this culture. They need to use their current ‘power’ to stand by women, allow them to become equal- that’s what a real man would do. I completely acknowledge their situations, such as women being the perpetrators, yet it is such a major issue. To sexually assault anyone is violent and disgusting. I am all for equality and we ALL need to rise up against these situations.
Q. If you were put in a room with the decision makers of the council, head of police or people with governmental/ political authority what would you say to them about the prevention of rape and rape culture in order to see more being done on the issue?
aske/he was h ‘s t n e m he s tate el about t fe u o y o oices? Q. How d lothing ch c f o s m r in te thing ing for it’ of their clo e e s u a c e b for it ing th as ask ing ey are tak w h t e l h e /s fe e I h an , n A. Saying my opinio nd mak ing a in lf t, e s n it a r n o n t io ed, no choice is ig from the violent ac er be rap v e ld u y o t ter a h oesn’t ma No one s blame aw d . n It . io s t a a ic le if p jus t g, sim re… excuse, a re wear in e they we r a e y h e h w t , t g a in h at. wear mat ter w respec t th hey were t to t a d h e e w , n y People who the ajor par t. m lia is t n e are amp r conse u lt u c e p nd ra cates ut rape a and advo o s b a im s t n ic v io t g r sa unispir in Q. Conve you feel a rounds, in g o y d it y s h r e y W iv . r change s tor y? Wh f ied on un fo ir t e s h t e d ll u te te lo s can k up to advoca here vic t im sys tem should spea w e c la p a cat ion ver sit y is in this edu e w l e fe do you any about it? passage, m ows f o e it r n mmo ich all a highly co ucat ion sys tem, wh is y re it s r e iv hese. The is ed t h t A. Un s a h g h u c u o s r me th issues rt people co can suppo ad among t e a r h p t s s e ie b to and niver sit educat ion g ser vices in e within u ll c e la s p n u in o c s ge , are sys tem ent wellbeing team ac t with a wide ran tud ter ies. you (the s nts also nor mally in tes, societ a m e s r u e d they ates, co so on). Stu her when s house m a it e h c t, u r s o to , p s of group vel of sup irec t them le /d r lk e h ta t o to n sa here eone This allow d can be t when som n a t u r o o iv k v a r e k now a su vice or to simply sp ts. ser r commen a il a s tudent im s r o e joke says a rap
A. We see rape jokes being commonly used and we need to speak against this to change a way of thinking. It’s not a joke, it’s a serious violent act. So many people have been affected by this issue, by talking about it and speaking up we are one step closer to prevention.
to say no, no matter what. No one should feel powerless when it comes to their own body or their own decisions. We need to encourage survivors to come forward and get true justice for what has happened to them.
Q. Have you noticed victim blaming when researching for these dates?
A. I was initially shocked and horrified by these findings. I knew it was a major issue in Southampton due to one of the parks being named ‘Rape Park’ but I didn’t know how I feel that some survivors are serious the issue was. This only shows crime data too, scared to speak out from these which is people who report the crime of rape and have situations because they have felt powerless or ‘stupid’. Evenit followed though up. There is so many more cases that haven’t been reported or followed up, so it is a bigger number they may feel like this, they are than this, yet this is such an enormous amount, especially not. Everyone has the right to related to recent years. consent. Everyone has the right
Teach Teach people people not to not to rape. rape. not to not to victim victim blame. blame.
Q. What do you feel can be improved to prevent sexual harassment and rape? A. I would say that education is key. We need to see less victim blaming and more people understanding the right of consent. No one should ever be in the position where someone feels the need to overpower someone and take into action something that is not consented by that person.. Teach people not to rape, not to victim blame, and to not think they are superior of that person.
125
126
‘I make works such as demoniac papier-mâché heads and unassuming hairy objects that cling to walls - a comment on the abjectness of the human body. My other practice includes painting large scale works that are highly autobiographical and often quite humorous. My works are based around my own experiences, thoughts and imaginations which are heavily conducted from living in post war, industrial, working class towns/ cities for the entirety of my life’.
Smith a i g r o e Megan G ous, l u c i d i the r e t a r n of b o e i l t e i c d n o o T gic c a r t d human n a g n y i n e n b u f
Q. What was the concept behind these sculptures? A. For ‘Docked’ I created 3 sculptures based around the idea of the stereotyping of young people in Southampton. I gained the inspiration for these by observing and being aware of the fact that there is a tension between Southampton citizens and the students who also inhabit the central area. By overemphasizing the forms, fashions and behaviours of young people, I hoped to create life-size satirical representations of fabricated characters I had in my mind. I also used my own social circle and peers as a muse. Q. What was the reaction of the exhibition? A. The reaction my work received was really positive apart from the fact that Kev got attacked! I dressed my sculptures in fake designer clothes to which was all too appealing for a passerby. Kev got his head ripped off for the sake of a Gucci cap that this girl wanted. He also got his Gucci belt nicked which I was super angry about initially. Thinking back now its kind of ironic that a young person was so attracted by Kevs fashion sense that they felt the need to steal it. The very purpose of the fake Gucci accessories was that I was making a mockery of the current trend at the moment that students/ teens are into. We like high fashion brands like Dior, Fendi, Burberry etc etc but really: none of us can actually afford it. The girl nicking those things off my work just proves my point really.
Kev got his head ripped off for the sake of a Gucci cap that this girl wanted.
127
Q. What do you love about sculptured art? A. Sculpture is a fairly new avenue for me and I’m loving it at the moment. It is allowing me to form 3D versions of figures that otherwise would’ve been captured in my work through a 2D medium (most likely with paint on a flat canvas). There’s something thrilling in watching these creatures be formed from my own hands. It’s a whole different approach to constructing these personalities in a form which I can touch and feel physically. I guess it’s kind of like giving birth to something. Each head is like my child! Q. Opinions on the youth of today A. I think the youth of today are super educated probably more than they ever have been before. The internet has allowed the sharing of knowledge and has allowed creatives like me to share my work to a larger audience, learn and connect with other artists and discover things that I definitely would not have without it. Majority of youth today I think, actually have big dreams and ambitions. We are inspired by a wealth of content and are passionate about our interests. From this stems focused and original works that will probably shape the future in the arts scene.
I think young people are totally switched on when it comes to the fuckery happening in the political/ socio-political world at the moment! I mostly thank social media for this as I think platforms such as Facebook and Instagram stimulates conversations on topics such as Brexit and Global Warming - young people are able to share their knowledge and views which ultimately leads to a more ‘woke’ generation of people - which ultimately provokes change!
Q. Why are we misunderstood? A. Not to bring ‘the internet’ into every single one of my answers but I really do think it’s because of technology. I think we are literally a generation of cyborg kids who have grown up through their teenage years watching technology such as phones, laptops, cameras etc become super advanced in such a short space of time. Because we’ve grown up with the constant glare of a screen, we are used to having constant contact with the outside world, connecting with others in all different kinds of ways. I guess for a generation who didn’t grow up with constantly updating, tweeting, snapping their friends, it would seem pretty weird and pointless. We are probably so misunderstood by other generations because from an outside perspective, it would seem that from social media a population of narcissistic, self obsessed teenagers are being spawned. Q. What concepts and ideas do you have in mind for future pieces? A. I have returned back to painting for a while as there are some scenes from around Southampton I witnessed that have been burning in my mind since the exhibition. I’d quite like to start making heads that might be recognisable to everyone - celebrities or political figures maybe. But mainly I will be carrying on with this grimy, urbanised, dirty kind of style in which characters just keep seem to be forming. I will continue to be inspired by the society that surrounds me and I’m excited to find out where this might lead to.
128
129
We are probably so misunderstood by other generations because from an outside perspective,
130
131
‘It doesn’t matter what colour you are, what you look like, whether you’re fully formed, missing a body part, or just broken and left on ‘The Heap’ with nothing else to offer - ‘You’re still a Mannequin’.
132
MANNEQUINS FOR EQUALITY AND DIVERSITY
Q. What was the concept behind the mannequin installation? A. The sculpture/installation was called MED (Mannequins for Equality and Diversity), located in East Park - Southampton City Centre (SO14 7DW). Opposite Solent University. MED was an ephemeral piece of artwork that lasted for one day. We advertised that from 3pm - 23 March, anyone was able to take away a piece of mannequin away with them, free of charge. Giving everyone an opportunity to own a piece of art for free. Although, on the day, people started taking pieces away as soon as they saw it. I think the first piece went by high noon. As soon as one person was seen to be allowed to take a piece everyone else followed suit. ‘MED’ consisted of over 350 pieces of Mannequin parts; arms, hands, legs, feet and torso’s. Most pieces were painted in different colours and in various states of build. Form full Mannequins with complete arms and legs, to part built Mannequins with missing body parts, as well as a pile of Mannequin body parts left on ‘The Heap’ (a mound of mannequins - not cleaned or painted). ‘MED’ was a piece a of social commentary about Equality and Diversity. The narrative behind ‘MED’, was that it doesn’t matter what colour you are, what you look like, whether you’re fully formed, missing a body part, or just broken and left on ‘The Heap’ with nothing else to offer - ‘You’re still a Mannequin’. The deeper meaning behind ‘MED’ is that, no matter where you’re from, what you look like, what your ability or disability is, or your social status - “we are all people - we are all equal”.
INTERVIEW WITH ARTIST - PETER SYMONDS ON THE INSTALLATION ART - MED. DIVERSITY AND EQUALITY.
133
“We are all people - we are all equal”.
134
Q. Why did you feel it is important to explore diversity through art? A. I think art can have an influential voice without seeming to be too preach. Equality and diversity has always been an important part of my own personal development and can often be seen in my other pieces of artwork. Q. Do you think the government and media is doing enough to project diversity? What would you like to say to media and to government on the issue? A. I think recent legislation has gone a long way to protect equality and diversity which set out to protect age, disability, gender reassignment, race, religion or belief, sex, sexual orientation, marriage and civil partnership and pregnancy and maternity. Unfortunately, I don’t think human nature is that forgiving. We all have to try harder to treat people with dignity and respect. It’s everybody’s responsibly to be aware of their own prejudices, no matter how big or small it is and to do something about it Q. What was the publics reaction to the work? did you find anything interesting from their response? A. People seemed to love it, even the collection frenzy contributed to the art. It felt a little like Black Friday at times. Some people had read my posts online and really liked the message behind the piece. Most people just liked the visual spectacle. I spoke to one lady and she described her version of the work without knowing the narrative and she got it spot on, which actually made me feel quite proud. Lot’s of people have contacted me on social media and sent me photos of where they’ve put them. I spoke to lots of people collecting them on the day and asked what they were going to do with their new collection, most just wanted a piece for fun, one group wanted to use them in a music video and others just wanted a piece for their garden. I suppose mannequins are now the new gnomes. Q. Do you feel art has power to change peoples perception on an issue or is its purely conceptual? A. If a topic is handled in the right way, art can have an equally powerful voice as any other medium. Take Banksy for instance, every time he/she has something to say, the world goes crazy. They might forget about it the next day, but for that moment in time, Art has a voice.
Q. Why did you decide to disect the mannequin instead of piecing together their colourful and white parts? A. The build of the installation was very organic. Originally I was going to build the mannequins with full, part and mix and match pieces of mannequins. When we unloaded them from the truck into the park, the white ones were delivered first and placed on The Heap. Then with the help of my team, we placed the coloured ones in a circle in order to help us plan where and how to build the rest. When they were all delivered, we took a step back and they seemed to fit in right where they were, so we left them as they were. Q. What was the significance of the white body parts being piled in a heap in the middle and the colourful ones places more spaciously around them in a circle? A. For whatever reason, some people they find themselves forgotten. I wanted the white body parts to represent people that society has left behind, people who have dropped off the radar, the poor, destitute and homeless. I wanted to draw attention to them, put a spot light on them and say we are all the same as you, we’re just in different circumstances, but we are all the same and you all deserve some compassion and understanding. The coloured mannequins were all painted to look desirable and interesting. A few days earlier they were all exactly the same as the dirty white ones, we just cleaned and pained and put them back together. They were treated with care, looked after and given a new lease of life. The ones we didn’t clean up and paint were left on the heap and shunned, people didn’t want to look them, let alone touch them or take one home. Q. What do you feel about leavers comments on Brexit stating that non British people are ‘taking our jobs’ ? A. No comment, I’ll leave politics to politicians. Q. In terms of diversity do you feel we are shutting ourself off from multiple cultures if we leave the EU. A. That’s a hot potato. No comment, I’ll leave politics to politicians. Q. Do you feel social media plays a big part in accepting and projecting diversity? A. Social media has it’s uses, it has the power to reach a lot of people, it just depends on how people use it.
135
136
137
138
‘So I’m just a Designer and Illustrator from Southend-on-Sea, but I currently work at Impero in London. My favourite colour is red. And that’s just about it. Recently I set myself the challenge of posting everyday on my feed. Just to experiment a bit and to show I can do a lot more than outlined skulls and hands. But the 22nd April was a special day as it was Earth day. That, coupled with the recent Extinction Rebellion demonstrations, sparked a lot of introspective in me, but also nationally and I’d like to think globally (plus, it sorted my post out for that day on a practical level)’.
For me, the daily toll we put our planet under is the most poignant. It’s that single crisp packet, ‘that one time’. Or ‘doesn’t-that-go-in-the-bin?’. To which the main form of pollution is the products and services we use everyday.
. e c n e c s e l o s
b o d e n n a l p The . e s u Single . d e r e v o c c i Plast
‘WE’VE ONLY GOT ONE’
It got me thinking of things from the past that are exactly that. Plus, I love a good visual pun. So I arrived at a floppy disk. It’s an old form of saving data that has now become obsolete, but you can imagine the abundance of them that probably occupy landfills the world over.
It had to be green, but it also had to have red on it (of course). And I wanted to get straight-to-thepoint, so plastering a dated-looking ‘we’ve only got one’ sticker, with a simple earth graphic I think does the job. But continuing on the archaic feel, using those old scrapbook name labels you have to punch out, to sign off with a call to action of: ‘save it’.
And that’s all we can do, is save. There’s no making it better than before. It’s daunting to think that, very soon, the new generation of the planet won’t have a planet; so what will they be a generation of?
139
140
141
@Mashmags
K U . O C . GS
A M H MAS
TAKING SUBMISSIONS FOR ISSUE TWO MASHMAG@HOTMAIL.COM
142
143
Issue one. £5.00
144