The Artistry of The Sommelier

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The Artistry of The Sommelier

Chris Turyk - I love wine, a lot. I’m a Certified Sommelier, WSET Diploma graduate, and get in everyones way at unsworthvineyards.

Asommelier’s ability to seamlessly pair wine with food is his raison d’etre. Food and wine pairing is one of the simple pleasures in life, and these tips can help you to create a memorable dining experience at your own table.

Sommeliers rely on technical knowledge of gastronomy, the wide world of wine, and a tuned palate. Truly great pairings enhance the level of enjoyment of both the food and the wine. Throw out the antiquated notion of white wine with fish and red wine with steak and pairing becomes a limitless adventure!

Your own mindset is the easiest skill to develop for honing your pairing prowess. Many things in life are more enjoyable if you are open to enjoying them. Breaking down the little rules we impose on ourselves which erode any potential for exploration is fundamental for successful pair-ing and general wine enjoyment.

The arbitrary and thankfully downward trending sentiment of “ABC -- anything but Chardonnay” stands as the perfect example of a capricious, self-inflicted barrier preventing enjoyment of the most extraordinary white wine pairings on the planet. Some of the finest Champagne Cuvées crafted from Chardonnay when paired with raw seafood preparations are perennial favourites of mine. Cool climate still incarnations whether from Chablis, New Zealand or BC prove as malleable as any wine to pair with an expansive array of cuisine from the aforementioned raw seafood to stuffed pork loin or chickpea curry. Roast chicken with sage butter provides the perfect match for a warm climate riper expression of Chardonnay.

During my years as a fine-dining sommelier, my first instinct when discussing potential pairings with guests was to discern whether a pairing of contrast or one of compliment would suit. This manifests in these two ways: guest attitude and interaction between food and wine.

For more conservative and traditional guests (information gleaned from their reservation notes, dress, and demeanour) I would stick to inside-thebox pairings -- the European couple celebrating their 65th anniversary would not trust junior to wow them with whacky grapes from obscure islands off the established oenological roadmap. If the aforementioned couple was sharing the steak for two, then 90% of the time I would recommend a structured red from a well-known producer in a classic region. Big steak plus big wine equals a pairing of compliment. As great as classics are, more fun can be had with pairings of contrast. Tinkering with expectations and seeing guests react favourably to new experiences is its own reward.

Picture a velvety, smooth, perfectly-seasoned Vichyssoise. Feel the way it generously coats your palate and cools (or warms) you as you sit back into your favourite chair. Now take a sip of Champagne -- this is an imaginary exercise, so make it something exceptional! The bubbles pierce though

the creamy texture, wash your palate clean, and you’re on the edge of your seat ready for more! This is contrast and also segues into the all-important pairing considerations of texture, acidity, sweetness and other structural elements.

Guidelines, rules and classic pairings are readily available and from a variety of sources. Books, blogs, websites and articles explain why different pairing phenomena work. Acidity cuts though fat and heavy tannins can be quelled by fat; so grab a Riesling with your pork belly to keep the unctuousness in check. A young Cabernet could have its edges softened by the same dish. Heavy tannins accentuate spicy flavours, so if you are a fan of spice grab a high tannin wine and the food will magically appear spicier, whereas a glass of off-dry wine will quell the heat. For example, poached salmon with Béarnaise sauce, smoked salmon with cream cheese, and barbecued, Cajun-spice-rubbed salmon will each have a flair with different wines. The delicate poaching and rich sauce would excel with a full, round and opulent white, the lox is screaming for sparkling and the barbecued, spiced salmon would prove perfect with a light, fruit-dominated red.

Fear not, the vast majority of wines are fine with the vast majority of foods. And when all else fails, make sure to have bread and butter on the table – it pairs with anything in your glass.

Margot Page

Enamelling on Copper and Steel

When I’m asked, “What should I serve with [insert main protein here]?” My first question is Frames • Bookmarks • Magnets • Lightswitch Plates Jewelery • Vases • Journals • Guestbooks always, “How are you cooking Available locally at: Imagine at Artisans it, and what are the main flavours of the dish?” Pairing to Rainforest Arts • Artzi Stu • TOSH the main protein only gets you so far. www.margotpage.com 250 746 8446quaylecard.indd 1 8/8/2011 3:23:00 PM