Icelandair travel supplement 2013 by The Copenhagen Post

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travel supplement 2013

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Welcome

POST BOX President and Publisher: Ejvind Sandal Chief Executive: Jesper Nymark

Some people may wonder why a supplement extolling the virtues of winter in Iceland is even necessary. Iceland? Isn’t it always winter there? No. And that’s the point. Iceland has four distinct seasons, each one with its own unique charm and activities to experience. Even though Iceland is indeed, as the poet Robert Plant once sang, “ ... the land of the ice and snow, from the midnight sun where the hot springs flow.” It is so much more. In fact, in spite of its name and reputation, the winters in many parts of Iceland are much milder than those experienced in other places. Often people in countries like Denmark, Ireland, Scotland and the northern US are surprised to check their smartphone and see that the weather in Reykjavik is clear and 5 or 6 degrees while they are dealing with snow, ice and subzero temperatures where they are. But make no mistake; Iceland is a Nordic country and Icelanders know how to make the most of winter and show their visitors how to have a good time in frosty conditions. From a rugged day of climbing glacial ice to a warm drink by a blazing fire, Iceland offers the winter experience at its best.

Editor-in-Chief: Kevin McGwin Editor: Ray Weaver Layout & Graphic Design: Aviaja Bebe Nielsen Sales and Advertising: Jeanne Thames, Mark Millen, Jørn Olling +45 3336 3300 If you would like to contact us or leave a comment: info@cphpost.dk This supplement is published by The Copenhagen Post in co-operation with Icelandair, please refer to our disclaimer on page 2 of the

Colourbox

Stan Colcombe

Visit Rykjavik

Sandra Yencho

newspaper.

That is what this supplement is all about. The great thing is, if you read something here that knocks you out, there is a good chance it is going on, no matter what season you finally decide to make that long talked about trip to Iceland. The waters are always flowing over Gullfoss, Geysir is filled with steam and magic and Silfra is there to snorkel all year long. And Reykjavik ... Reykjavik always rocks! The work of Halldór Laxness, the Icelandic author and Nobel laureate, captures the attitudes and history of the Icelandic people perfectly, so a spin through any one of his many volumes, almost all available in English, is a good primer for understanding the special nature of the Icelandic people and their country. And it is also damn good literature. One of Halldor’s most famous works is a book entitled ‘The Fish Can Sing’, and if there is a place in the world where fish could rise from a crystal clear stream and break out in song, it is Iceland. A land of sagas, music, laughter, and people that embrace life to the fullest, a visit to Iceland leaves the traveller both fulfilled and with a sense of longing. Totally and completely enthralled and amazed at what they have experienced, and aching for the moment that they can book a return trip to do all of the things that they missed the first time around.

ICELAND

Winter

Stan Colcombe

They say that absence makes the heart grow fonder. And if that’s true, then Icelanders have a winter passion for light. As they days grow shorter, the skies gloomier and the winter holidays approach, the windows of Icelandic homes fill up with lights that stay up long into January, February and beyond until the daylight hours once again begin to outnumber the dark ones. And even though the winter sun doesn’t stay over the horizon for more than a few hours each day, the locals know how to wrangle every ray and bit of warmth out if it. Icelanders embrace their winter. In fact, they thrive in it. Celebrate it. Hike in it. Even swim in it. And they encourage and inspire their guests to do the same. But isn’t just the light that makes Icelanders a hardy folk. Life on an island has made them self-sufficient and given them a sense of improvisation that seems lost in many other places. When something breaks or doesn’t go as planned, Icelanders have a laugh, fix what’s broken, change direction, find a new way and keep moving.

Stan Colcombe

Winter in Iceland

The Blue Lagoon A dip in the famous Blue Lagoon about 40 kilometres outside of Reykjavik and a short 13 kilometres from Keflavik Airport has become almost a requirement of an Icelandic visit. And with good reason. In a country where it can snow in the summer, you quickly come to appreciate that its water is a constant bathtublike 38 degrees centigrade. The warm waters are rich in minerals like silica and sulphur and bathing in the Blue Lagoon is reputed to have therapeutic benefits. Therapeutic or not, standing up and letting the top half of your body feel the sting of the Icelandic winter while the bottom half is basking in

THingvellir tectonic plates meet. A related story on page 6 this issue tells about a snorkelling adventure between the two. It is here that Iceland seems at the same time very old and very young. The history of the area combined with the volcanic landscape reminds visitors that although Icelandic society has a long and rich history, the land mass itself is still very young geologically and unstable and can be as volatile as a petulant teenager. While other parts of the planet seem to be getting older and smaller, Iceland is still in the process of being born. The island’s volcanoes have been known to stop air traffic worldwide and even when they quiet down their lava fields, geothermal pools, hot springs and geysers are still constant reminders of their presence. New islands have popped up off the Icelandic coast in the last century and some of its southern beaches, fed by sand and ash from the last eruption, have grown hundreds of metres out into the sea.

38 degrees of warmth is close to a mind-altering experience. Ordering the perfect drink to enjoy while in the lagoon is as easy as floating up to the outside bar. Lovers find a quiet corner of the large lagoon for a bit of privacy while others stand with their backs to a waterfall for a warm natural massage. But, for those of you that think the Blue Lagoon is all fun and games, consider this: it is actually a part of Iceland’s geothermal heating network. The lagoon is fed by the water output of a nearby geothermal power plant. Superheated water is vented from the ground near a lava flow and used to run turbines that generate electricity. After passing through

the turbines, the steam and hot water enters a heat exchanger to provide heat for hot water in Reykjavik and the water is then fed into the lagoon. The Blue Lagoon complex includes a restaurant, spa, hotel and more. The Flybus operated by Reykjavik Excursions offers an arrival Blue Lagoon tour that takes you from Keflavik Airport to the lagoon and back to your hotel. Even if you’re just passing through Iceland.

bluelagoon.com re.is

All Photos: Stan Colcombe

The Golden CIRCLE Thingvellir NationaL Park is part of the Golden Circle, a popular tourist route in southern Iceland covering about 300 kilometres, circling out from Reykjavík into central Iceland and back again. Settled by Norwegian wanderers sometime in the 9th century, the Icelandic people established their first parliament in 930 at Thingvellir. Some scholars believe that it may have been the first such body ever formed. The business of Icelandic government was conducted there until the 1700s. Now a national park, Thingvellir literally breathes history. You can see it in the steam rising from the hot springs. One of Iceland’s most popular tourist spots, the park teems with visitors during the summer. A winter visit is a quieter and more spiritual occasion. Looking out over the broad, empty valley, it is easy to imagine thousands of Icelanders converging on this spot in ancient times to barter, argue, govern, fight, love and forge their nation’s future. Thingvellir is also the site of a rift valley that marks the spot where the European and American

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Winter

Another stop on the Golden Circle route is the waterfall Gullfoss (the Golden Falls). As the Hvítá River flows south, it turns left about one kilometer above the falls and rumbles down a rocky threestep staircase and then falls abruptly in two stages – one ten metres and one 20 metres – into a deep crevice. During the winter, ice forms on the rocks and walls all the way down, creating a brilliant white contrast to the rushing blue and green water. The legend of Sigríður Tómasdóttir, a local woman who fought to preserve the falls, is a wellloved tale in Iceland. Throughout the last century, there was much speculation about using Gullfoss to generate electricity. The owners of the land leased the falls to foreign investors. When the investors ran out of cash, the waterfall was sold to the government of Iceland, who had its own plans to use the falls for power. When the government changed its mind and protected the falls instead, the legend evolved that it was Tómasdóttir’s relentless campaign to save the falls – including threatening to throw herself into the raging water while the media was watching – that saved them. Although oft told, the tale is probably mostly apocryphal. There is, however, a stone memorial to Tómasdóttir, located above the falls – icelanders are not the type of folks to let a few facts stand in the way of a good legend!

Sandra Yencho

Gullfoss

o x Stan Colcombe

Geysir The last stop on the Golden Circle tour is the geothermally active valley of Haukadalur, home to the geysers Geysir and Strokkur. This is the place that the very word ‘geyser’ comes from. The earth hisses and bubbles all around. Moving streams of steaming water are bordered by ice-encrusted plants just a metre away. Although big brother Geysir has been quiet for a number of years, little brother Strokkur still spews water and steam into the air every seven minutes or so, sending tourists streaming forward with their cameras. There are about 30 other geysers and hot springs scattered throughout Haukadalur. A sign indicating water temperatures at between 80 and 100 degrees prompted a gentle warning to an American visitor who was about to cross over a retaining rope for a closer look at a boiling hot mud pot. That is centigrade, friend ... not Fahrenheit.

The best guides will make sure that you pull in somewhere along the way for a bowl of Kjötsúpa – a traditional Icelandic lamb stew made with carrots, potatoes and rutabagas and other local ingredients. Everyone you talk to will tell you that their recipe is the best and of course they are all right because each one is different. Some include oats, some rice but all use local wild herbs to season the broth. It is the perfect meal to warm you during a full winter’s day in the Icelandic countryside.

goldencircleiceland.com thingvellir.is/english gullfoss.org geysircenter.com

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Winter

Go home with a story worth telling!

Explore the rugged, raw and ever changing glacial tongue of S贸leimaj枚kull glacier. Our bestselling winter trip! Rafting

Ice Climbing Snorkeling

Diving

Glacier Hike Canoeing

Hiking

Climbing

Super-Jeep Caving

Horse Riding Sightseeing Snowmobile Whale Watch ATV

Kayaking

Cycling

Surfing

Boat Ride

Hot Spring

Incentive

Skiing

Swimming

Multi Trips

adventures.is | info@adventures.is | +354-562-7000 A time-lapse sequence of the geyser Strokkur erupting. Taken by photographer Stan Colcombe

All Photos: Arctic Adventures

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Snorkelling Into the cold, Ray Weaver

To be honest, when someone mentions snorkelling to me, Iceland is not the first place that springs to my mind. Malta maybe. Spain. Greece, even ... but Iceland? So when Gulli, our guide, suggested a snorkelling excursion to Iceland’s Lake Silfra in Thingvellir National Park my reaction was: “Snorkelling?” “In Iceland?” “IN THE WINTER?” “Let me know how that works out for you ... I’ll be at the pub.” But the assignment was to experience Iceland in winter, so there I was, a short 40-minute jeep ride from Reykjavik, watching the late-morning

“

Let me know how that works out for you ... I’ll be at the pub.

”

Arctic sunrise, and standing in a parking lot with a handful of other hardy souls while Gulli and his team explained how to put on the layers of clothing that would keep us warm while snorkelling in water that would be ice, if it was but one or two degrees colder. You have to wear a lot of clothes when you go snorkelling in Iceland. And in December, you need to wear even more – 3 or 4 layers above what you already had on, including something called a teddybear suit – that had us all looking like mini-Michelin Men until we put our dry suits over them. By the time you are finished with the two suits, a hoodie, gloves, flippers, goggles and other accessories, not much is exposed to the elements. One is, however, pretty exposed while changing into all that stuff. I had to get down to my ther-

mals and socks while standing there in the parking lot. While the women were offered the jeeps and vans as changing rooms, the guides pointed out that it would not be particularly “Viking” of any of the men to try to take up space in the vehicles. It was especially chilly for those that were wearing blue jeans. Cotton not being your friend if it gets wet, those who wore Mr Strauss’s finest had to strip down to their boxers before putting on the teddybear suit. The toughest part for me was balancing yoga-style on my coat with one foot while I put the teddy-bear suit and sock back on my opposite leg. And yep, the inevitable happened. After we all had completely dressed and walked the hundred metres or so to the spot in the fissure where we were going into the water, a sheepish looking woman whispered something to Gulli. Gulli smiled and pointed toward a stand of rocks that she could slip behind while we waited. And waited ... During the pre-dive run-through, Gulli had asked if we knew what to do should we get water in our snorkel. As a veteran of many Atlantic snorkelling trips, I was anxious to impress, so I said, “You blow it out.” Gulli smiled and said, “Nah, just drink it. It’s the cleanest water in the world. You can never drink enough water.” Of course I tried it. It was breathtakingly cold and delicious. The glacial waters of Lake Silfra are so clear that even from the surface I could see deep into

“

You blow it out.

”

the fissures where the American and European tectonic plates meet. And yeah, as a Yank who lives in Europe these days, being able to try to touch continents at the same time was a big part of what had me bobbing slowly through a narrow crevice, face down, looking into water so clean that it actu-

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Silfra blue yonder

ally tricked my perception. A rock that looked like it was within arm’s length turned out to be two metres away. Flashes of light shimmered in the depths maybe 12, maybe 60 metres away, there was no way to tell. How far I could see into the moss and rock formations and distance was restricted only by my own limitations, not any sediment in the water. It was reality magnified through a crystal glass. As for me, I wasn’t cold. The layers of clothing held my body heat and helped me float. The only time I was really aware of the water temperature was when I had to open my diving mask to use some fresh water to clear the condensation. That’ll wake you up in the morning! After about 35 minutes, we had swum about 300 metres into a small lagoon. The ice crusted on the rocks as we climbed out of the water reminded me of just where I was and what I was doing. It was wild. It was a little nuts. And everyone agreed it was one of the most amazing things we had ever done.

Arctic Adventures is Iceland’s oldest and most experienced adventure tour company. Staffed by avid outdoors enthusiasts, they offer activities from snorkelling to blue ice climbing, rafting and every type of adventure in between. Their goal is to give visitors an Icelandic adventure year round. Information about their various day trips and extended tours can be found at adventures.is.

Winter

Fly Icelandair to 10 destinations in North America Take advantage of an Iceland stop-over at no additional airfare

■ ■ ■ ■ ■

Friendly & professional service Three classes of service, Saga Class, Economy Comfort & Economy Comfortable leather seats in all cabins Seatback interactive entertainment system Easy & short transit at Keflavik airport

ANCHORAGE ANCHORAGE

ST. ST. PETERSBURG PETERSBURG HELSINKI HELSINKI STOCKHOLM STOCKHOLM TRONDHEIM TRONDHEIM SEATTLE SEATTLE

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OSLO OSLO GOTHENBURG GOTHENBURG COPENHAGEN BERGEN COPENHAGEN BERGEN STAVANGER STAVANGER BILLUND BILLUND HAMBURG HAMBURG FRANKFURT FRANKFURT MÜNICH MÜNICH AMSTERDAM AMSTERDAM ZÜRICH BRUSSELS BRUSSELS ZÜRICH GLASGOW GLASGOW MANCHESTER MILAN MANCHESTER MILAN LONDON PARIS LONDON PARIS

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TORONTO TORONTO BOSTON BOSTON NEW NEW YORK YORK WASHINGTON WASHINGTON D.C. D.C.

ORLANDO ORLANDO

Wifi on board Throughout 2013 we will implement WIFI on board our fleet + Book your flight at www.icelandair.com

HALIFAX HALIFAX

Visit Rykjavik

Stan Colcombe

Winter

The Icelandic Book of Settlement holds that a Norwegian Viking named Ingólfur Arnarson tossed something called high seat pillars from his ship into the sea when he saw the south-eastern coastline of what was to become Iceland and, in the Viking tradition, settled where the pillars came ashore. Scholars these days believe that Arnarson’s tale is probably just a legend, but Icelanders like their legends a lot more than they like scholars, so the story endures. What is true is that before it began developing into a major city in the 18th century, Reykjavik – which translates to ‘the Bay of Smoke’, a name inspired by the area’s hot springs – had already been inhabited for 1,000 years. Reykjavík 871±2 is an exhibition on the settlement of Reykjavík based on the archaeological excavation of the ruin of one of the first houses in Iceland. The exhibition, located in Reykjavik’s old centre, is based on theories about the life and work of the first settlers. The focus of the exhibition is the ruin of a longhouse from the Settlement Age that was excavated in 2001. The house itself was inhabited between 930 and 1000. On its north side are remnants of a wall that was clearly built sometime before 871 – plus or minus a couple of years, thus giving the exhibition its name. Precise dating is possible because a major volcanic eruption from the Torfajokull area spread ash across the region, which can be dated using glacial ice in Greenland from around the same time. The hall is among the oldest humanmade structures so far found in Iceland. It takes a visitor, perhaps jaded by too many museum dioramas, a moment to realise that they are not looking at a mock up of a wall from the ninth century – that’s the real wall. Those are the actual rocks, from around 871. Various interactive methods explain and interpret the remains of the building, including a 3D image of how the house may have looked. This is not a dusty museum tour – there are holograms, computer-generated images and enough touch screens to keep even the most iEverything-happy visitor engaged. Even if you head straight for the museum, your next stop is Visit Reykjavik, located just down the hill, in order to get an overview of the city. They know what’s going on and how to get you there. A 2448- or 72-hour Reykjavik Welcome Card is available different prices and is a good

Reykjavik is the world’s northernmost capital city. It is the gateway to all things Icelandic. Even if you never get outside the city limits, a visit to Reykjavik is a visit to one of the most unique places on the planet Ray Weaver

Visit Rykjavik

Stan Colcombe

Reykjavik rocks

Sandra Yencho

ICELAND

investment for travellers looking for discounted admission to museums, thermal swimming pools, zoos, culture houses ... you name it. It also lets you ride around free on the city buses. Reykjavik is a walking city. Everything is close, the shopping is world class and the city is clean. Car traffic defers to foot traffic ... and the occasional sheep that may wander into town. Iceland is still a free range country and dealing with livestock comes with the territory. And if a bunch of overly-partied frat boys decide they simply must pose for a picture while performing a mock Viking battle in the middle of a downtown street, the traffic just waits until the shot is done and then honks and smiles as they drive by. Reykjavik has long been at the crossroads of the world. The residents are comfortable with people from other countries, speak excellent English and love showing off their city. A night-time trip through the city’s hip 101 area with Jakob Freeman Magnusson, a well-known Icelandic musician who has performed on many world stages with his Jack Magnet Quintet, is a crash course in Reykjavik’s musical and literary history. Magnusson is known as the unofficial mayor of the 101, and he is a whirlwind. Giving a speech here, shaking hands with a new restaurant owner there and all the while taking phone calls, talking to everyone who passes by and pointing out local points of interest while a soundtrack of his own jazz and electronica music blares from his Land Rover. “That building was part of the wool industry that drove this city for a long time,” Magnusson says, points, and moves on. “That is an archaeological dig – did you know there is a whole other city under this street?” “That is where one of the guys that caused the financial crisis lived. We put him in jail,” he says with a glint in his eye. The only time he slows down is when he drives past what looks like nothing more than a standard issue, graffiti covered skateboarding park.

Nic Lehoux

“This park is called Hjartareiturinn – the heart spot. It is the breeding ground for some of the most important art in Icelandic history,” he says reverently as he points across the tiny park to some smallish houses. “That’s where Björk got together with the rest of the band and started the Sugarcubes and over there is where Sigur Rós used to practice.” It is easy to sense the pride Magnusson takes – and remember, he is no slouch as a musician himself – in Reykjavik’s contributions to the worldwide music scene. Of course, Reykjavik’s nightlife and music scene are legendary. The fun starts late, about 11pm, and runs until four or five in the morning. Beautiful people in the latest fashions line up in front of the dance club of the moment – which right now is apparently one called Austur. Those looking for something a bit more traditional will hit the Dubliner or English Pub. National acts and local yokels play the same streets. The choices and variety of sounds are virtually endless. It is easy to luck out and catch someone hot like Jónas Sigurðsson – whose CD you heard at a friend’s house the night before – at a small club. Music is literally everywhere. A stop into a storefront combination travel agency and backpacker’s rest area finds an impromptu but excellent six piece folk/bluegrass band doing a seven minute ramble in Icelandic that must be riotously funny – because everyone is laughing. And whether you understand the words or not, the fun is contagious. Thoroughly modern, Reykjavik offers everything an urbanite could want with the added benefit of being the gateway to an unlimited number of year-round rugged adventures just beyond the city limits. Hangover permitting, of course.

Stan Colcombe

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Traditional Icelandic cuisine brings to mind sheep’s head and rotten shark - not that there’s anything wrong with that! In reality, Iceland, and especially Reykjavik, is filled with great restaurants doing modern dishes with fresh local ingredients. From corner coffees shops featuring local pastries to the finest of fine dining, it’s all there for the tasting. Here is just a small sampling of what’s on offer in “the big little city”.

MAR is new. Brand new. So new you can smell it. And they strive to take a new approach to food as well. Specialising in what they call Icelandic food with a South American flair, MAR aims to be a fine dining experience and an alternative to what the owners feel are a glut of tapas and casual joints in Reykjavik. These folks love food and love to combine and present it in unexpected ways. Ever consider a salt cod ball topped with sesame and served with a tomato and raspberry jam? How about fresh fish prepared ceviche-style and garnished with popcorn and orange slices? Yes, popcorn. Sounds crazy, but it works. Otherwise, try breathtaking lobster risotto followed by a South American steak that melts on the tongue. MAR sits on the edge of Reykjavik’s rapidly developing old harbour district. Here is the chance to say you were one of the first to experience a great new eatery.

Fiskfelagid (Fish Company) Vesturgotu 2a Grofartorg Reykjavik fiskfelagid.is

Fiskfelagid

If you hit the Fish Company for lunch and decide to go for the lobster tempura salad, the waiter will ask if you want the small of large size. If you plan on eating anything else, like some of the sushi choices on offer, go for the small; the large is more than enough for the heartiest appetite. The Fish Company has been called a fish restaurant for meat lovers because along with its array of seafood dishes, there is always a wide selection of choices for the carnivore, including a rack of Icelandic lamb or a US-style barbecue. Centrally located, the Fish Company’s unique design and excellent food make it a choice for locals and visitors alike. Reykjavik’s movers and shakers are regular lunch and dinner guests.

Geirsgata 9 Reykjavik marrestaurant.is

Julius Sigurjonsson

Hotel Natura Nautholsvegur 52 Reykjavik sattrestaurant.com

Icelandair Hotels

This not a typical hotel restaurant. Specialising in fresh, organic and Icelandic fare, they offer breakfast, lunch and dinner. Brunch is served on the weekends. Deciding on fish for both appetiser and main course can be risky, but not at Satt. The Arctic Charr appetiser complimented the plaice served over potatoes and vegetables. Both were deliciously prepared, the plaice had been cooked with just the right amount of butter to bring out the flavour of the fish, and the waiter was able to suggest the proper bottle from Satt’s diverse wine list to complement both dishes. And the desert of a fresh-baked chocolate brownie with warm chocolate sauce inside that flowed into the assortment of fresh fruit on the plate tasted as decadent as it looked. Satt is comfortable enough for families and still upscale enough for a fine dining experience.

MAR Restaurant

Slippbarinn The restaurant and bar at Hotel Marina is as quirky and fun as the hotel itself. Housed in a former paint factory in a working marina (there is a dry-docked ship being worked on just outside the window) in Reykjavik’s hot 101 district, both the hotel and bar are the place to see and be seen. The chefs put together an original menu, heavy on unique tapasstyle creations like mini-turkey burgers and small meals featuring local ingredients and thankfully devoid of the usual pub fare. The decor is crazyquilt, antique store funky and the staff is young and talented. The headwaiter makes it a point to go from table to table and check on every party. On the weekends, the tempo and volume of the music picks up at around 11pm and Slippbarinn fills up with Reykjavik’s beautiful people ready to sample the city’s fabled nightlife.

Hotel Marina Myrargata 2 Reykjavik icelandairhotels.com/ hotels/reykjavikmarina

Icelandair Hotels

Satt

Theme

All Photos:Icelandair Hotels

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Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Natura Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Natura has been a part of the city of Reykjavik for nearly five decades. Newly remodelled, the hotel’s warm, unique atmosphere is accented by works from local artists and feels deeply Icelandic and completely modern. This is not some by-the-numbers corporate hotel. There is a full slate of amenities, including an indoor salt water geothermal-heated swimming pool and hot tub. The pool is part of the new Soley Natura Spa, which offers beauty and massage treatments using all-natural Icelandic products. There is nothing quite like starting or ending the day with a dip in the warm pool and a trip to the sauna. Their hotel offers music, movies, video art ... even bedtime stories for grownups. Yep, bedtime

stories. Folks gather in their nightclothes under blankets and listen to stories by Icelandic authors, usually read in English. The hotel provides hot chocolate, but the bunny slippers are up to you. Don’t be shy. It sounds a bit odd at first, but it is actually quite a bit of fun and very relaxing. The Natura’s in-house restaurant, Satt, is reviewed on page 12. Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Natura is located in one of the city’s greenest areas and is surrounded by biking, running and walking trails. The city centre is just a few minutes by car or taxi – or an easy 20 minute walk – and the hotel provides free city bus tickets to guests. Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Natura is an elegant combination of history, fun and luxury.

icelandairhotels.com/hotels/reykjaviknatura

Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Marina Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Marina is one of the most unusual hotels you will ever experience. Reykjavik’s newest hotel – it opened in the spring of 2012 in the city’s trendy harbour district – the Marina combines Reykjavik’s rich maritime history with its vibrant and modern present day culture. Look, the hotel is located in a repurposed paint factory next to a working dry dock – there really is a ship being worked on just outside your window – but this no drawback: it offers a unique experience that connects you with Iceland’s heart in a way no bland corporate hotel ever could. The Marina received the 2012 City of Reykjavik Beautification Award for its stylish and original look. Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Marina, in the tradition of the Icelandic people themselves, strives to make sure that its guests are comfortable and happy while at the same time not taking itself too seriously.

icelandairhotels.com/hotels/reykjavikmarina

The contemporary Viking 66°NORTH was founded in 1926 with the purpose of making protective-wear for Icelandic fishermen and workers. Today we make quality clothing for all types of outdoor activities designed to meet the needs of contemporary living.

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The hotel is colourful and quirky, with surprises and smiles around every corner. Invoices from its days as a paint factory hang on the walls and a sign in the toilet reminds you that there is no reason to hang around too long in such a small space when Reykjavik’s exciting downtown is right outside. The decor is bright and whimsical, featuring colourful wallpaper, real Icelandic antiques and other odd curios. The hotel’s common area features lots of comfortable, cosy seating and a large fireplace. The Marina’s restaurant and pub, Slippbarinn, reviewed on page 12, and where the hotel’s selfassured attitude ends, the restaurant picks right up, thanks to its helpful staff and unique dishes. The staff and management at Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Marina have the perfect combination of youth and experience to point their guests to the best of what’s hot in Reykjavik, while at the same time making sure that they enjoy comfortable accommodations and friendly service.

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Spring • Summer • Autmn

No matter the season, Iceland has it all. The truth is, there simply isn’t a bad time of the year to consider going to Iceland. Once you have checked that winter trip off your bucket list, it is time to take a look at what the other seasons have to offer

All photos: Colourbox

Winter, spring, summer or autumn

Spring Spring in Iceland is like spring in much of Europe and North America – it comes in like a lion and goes out ... well, you know ... a nice, succulent Icelandic lamb. Temperatures start to rise and the sun is up for many hours, making the days longer and more enjoyable. There is plenty to see and do in the spring, and prices and crowds are still below what will they will be during the summer high season. The Northern Lights are still visible at night and the skiing is still good for a while.

Caving, horseback riding, hiking, golfing – it’s all there, and it is a bit easier to get around now that the days are longer and the snow is receeding. There are also some unique springtime festivals. Every year, on the first day of March, Icelanders celebrate the repeal of the country’s 75-year ban on beer by – surprise! – drinking lots of beer. In April, Icelanders celebrate the First Day of Summer (Sumardagurinn Fyrsti) on the first

Thursday after April 18. Summer starts in April in the Old Norse calendar, and Icelanders celebrate with parades, sporting events, free/ discounted museum admission and parties throughout the country. In May, the Reykjavik Arts Festival offers exhibitions, concerts, dance, theatre and opera performances from national and international artists. The volcano Thrihnukagigur opens again for visits from the public in mid-May. Tell the truth – did you have anything nearly as cool as dropping by a volcano on your spring holiday list?

Summer Iceland has a concentrated high tourist season, peaking from mid-June through August. Icelanders have been known to compare the flocking tourists to migrating birds, and the tourists have often marvelled at the sight of locals in shorts and t-shirts in 10 degree weather. Hell, just lie down a bench next to ‘em – summer is summer where ever you are. Although the theatre, symphony and opera take the summer off, some museums outside Reykjavik are only open in summer, and arts and cultural festivals are everywhere. In Reykjavik, they tend to gravitate

to the ‘bookend’ seasons of April to May and September to October. Those bookend seasons can be wonderful times to visit. In fact, a good general strategy is to shoot for the outlying weeks. And yes, you can swim in the summertime in Iceland. The geothermal outdoor swimming pools are open, and you can actually take a dip in the ocean at the beach in Nauthólsvik close to the Hotel Natúra in Reykjavik. Warm water is pumped out into the sea resulting in a water temperature of about 20 degrees during the summer months. And you can always

relax in the hot pots on the beach. Play golf. Yes, golf. Icelanders are golf maniacs: there are over 60 golf courses in a country with a population of 315,000. One of them is actually in the middle of the lava field at the foot of the volcano Eyjafjallarjokull – you know, the one that erupted a few years ago. Players have to sort out on their own how an eruption may affect their handicap. When you come to Iceland in the summer, remember that the sun never goes completely down. Ask a local when it gets dark and they are likely to reply, “around September”.

AUTUMN It is a bit of a challenge to differentiate between the activities available in Iceland during any given season, because so many things just continue year round. Reykjavik is as charming in November as it is in June, maybe even more so when the visitor is greeted by the sight of locals enjoying a dip at a municipal geothermal swimming pool while snow falls into their hair. One activity specific to fall is something called the Big Round-Up. Visitors in early September – especially experienced riders – can discover Iceland’s beautiful and remote backcountry on horseback while participating the fall sheep round-up. Hundreds of thousands

of Icelandic sheep spend the summer grazing in highland pastures. Before winter sets in, local farmers spend up to a week herding them home. Most participants are experienced riders, but some go along in 4WD vehicles or on foot; others just watch and join the party that happens once the round up is complete. And Icelanders know how to party! Visit Reykjavik can help you find a round-up in a part of the country that you would like to see. In fact, horseback riding is a major activity in Iceland all year round, but especially in the summer and fall. Rides can be arranged to last from as little as two hours to a full 10 days.

...and as the autumn fades, and winter settles in again, life in Iceland adjusts and continues. Icelandic golfers hit snow-covered links with bright orange golf balls. When the Christmas season begins in late November, Reykjavik and the rest of Iceland remains lively and full of fun. The town of Hafnarfjörður hosts an elaborate Christmas Village with carolling choirs, gift stalls and costumed elves. On New Year’s Eve, many visitors shuttle to Reykjavik just to take part in the celebration. And then there is helicopter sightseeing, whale watching, hiking, camping ... the list goes on all year long and all around the country.

ICELAND Icelandair – it's in the name. No airline knows more about Iceland than Icelandair icelandair.dk icelandair.com (English)

gets you comfortably and economically to your hotel, the Blue Lagoon and points in between. flybus.is

Laxnes Horse Farm – Go riding. For two hours or a week. These are the folks that can help you find your inner cowboy laxnes.is

Visit Reykjavik – Even before you leave home, start your trip here. They know what's on and how to get you there. visitreykjavik.is

Inside the Volcano – Really. You get to go inside. Not to be missed. insidethevolcano.com

Elding Adventures at Sea – Whale and bird watching. Angling. You’re on an island for Pete’s sake ... get out on the water! elding.is

Reykjavik Excursions – Information about buses, tours, attractions, deals ... and there’s an app! re.is Arctic Adventures – there are a lot of adventure companies in Iceland. AA is one of the most experienced. adventures.is Flybus – connected with arriving and departing flights at Keflavik airport, the Flybus

Nordurljos-Hofn Hornafirdi