James Beard nods help local chefs shine a light on their cultures

All of the 2023 James Beard Foundation Award semi nalists have worked hard to earn their recognition as chefs and restaurateurs, but some have come a longer way than others.

A handful of the 13 semi nalists in Michigan earned the nod by staying true to their roots — roots that extend to di erent parts of the world. ey immigrated to the United States at various stages of their lives. Emerging Chef category nominee Amado Lopez — owner, operator and chef at Casa Amado Taqueria in Berkley, moved from Mexico to Chicago when he was 5 years old. Hamissi Mamba and Nadia Nijimbere, the husband-and-wife team that owns and operates East African cuisine restaurant Baobab Fare in Detroit’s New Center area, moved from east African country Burundi to Detroit in 2014. Ji Hye Kim, chef and owner of Korean restaurant Miss Kim in Ann Arbor, moved from South Korea to New Jersey at 13 years old.

Each of those Beard semi nalists — Kim and Mamba and Nijimbere in the regional Best Chef: Great Lakes category — brings their culture and upbringing to their work. at includes cuisine from their home countries. Sharing food from those places was always a part of the plan for each of the nominees. e Beard recognition itself? Not so much.

Cooking with pride

Lopez, who in 2015 moved from Chicago to Rochester to take a job as executive catering chef at the Plum Market chain, admits he was shocked to learn he earned the semi nalist nod. He opened his taqueria in late 2020 in a small space at 2705 Coolidge Highway that previously was home to hot dog restaurant Atomic Dawg.

“I was just cooking one day and I heard someone screaming. I thought something was wrong and we were gonna have to close up,” Lopez said of getting the good news. “It’s an honor. It gives you a real sense of pride. I don’t think a lot of chefs set out to win awards when they start, but recognition is nice sometimes.

“All my life, all I’ve done is cook. I started watching my dad cook when I was 7.