19 October 2012 by Crave Malay Mail

FRIDAY OCTOBER 19, 2012 S AT I S F Y I N G

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CRUSTACEAN CRAVINGS Where to go to enjoy the Chinese seasonal delicacy of hairy crabs

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DI WEI CHINESE CUISINE’S HAIRY CRABS

CWZJ CUISINE

IT is autumn and this means the season of the hairy crab in China. These crustaceans also known as mitten crabs, come with trademark furry pinchers and legs. Gourmands look forward to this season as the crabs are prized for their indulgent rich creamy roe that turns golden when steamed. Even the flesh is especially sweet for this small crustacean. The crabs are harvested from lakes in the Jiangsu province in China, such as Yangcheng Lake and Tai Lake. The specimens from Yangcheng Lake are sought after, as they are said to be of the best quality. Even though the Tai Lake’s crabs are of a different quality, they are comparable with the Yangcheng Lake’s specimens. The

Yangcheng Lake crabs even come with identification tags issued by the local crab authority to prevent fakes. 5 Sen5es’ Chef Ng Kok Wai explains there are few ways to select a good hairy crab. Firstly, the crab must have a bright green body with alert eyes. Next the pinchers and legs must be covered with an abundance of fine golden hair. Lastly, the crab’s stomach must be white in colour. This is checked by turning it upside down. You can also differentiate between male and female crabs, by looking at the shape of its stomach. If it is sharp and triangular, this means it is a male while a female has a rounder shape. In Malaysia, the crabs are flown in from China and kept chilled in the refrigerator. “We cover the crabs with a wet cloth to

DI WEI CHINESE CUISINE RESTAURANT

THE HAIRY CRAB DECONSTRUCTED

Tucked way in Kuchai Lama, this under the radar place is famous for its well-prepared Chinese dishes, served with specialty teas. CWZJ stands for Cha Wang Zi Jia, that means house of tea kings in Chinese. The seasonal delicacy is prepared the most traditional way, steamed and served with ginger tea at the end. You get a choice of male and female crabs with a range of sizes. Choices are limited though on the availability of stocks. Prices range from RM48 to RM148 per crab starting from 160 grams sized crabs. Female crabs are pricier compared to male crabs and usually available at the later part of the season. For the larger sized hairy crabs more than 250 grams, the restaurant can also prepare them salt baked. The promotion includes a buy five crabs, free one crab offer and it is set to finish by end of November.

Located in the Subang Jaya suburbs, this Chinese restaurant is perfect for those lazy to fight through traffic to satisfy their hairy crab cravings. The crustaceans are brought in from Tai Lake, and each crab weighs around 150 grams. The crabs are served steamed with ginger tea - perfect for purists to enjoy its sweet flesh and creamy roe on its own. The crab is RM88++ per crab and RM148++ for two crabs. The delicacy can also be enjoyed in a steamed Shanghainese dumpling (xiao long bao) with the hairy crab roe (RM12++ for three pieces). The promotion runs to November 15 or until crabs are available.

8, Jalan 11/116B, Kuchai Enterpreneurs Park, off Jalan Kuchai Lama, Kuala Lumpur. Tel:03-79818714.

Empire Hotel, Jalan 16/1, Subang Jaya, Selangor. Tel:03-55651388.

STEAMED SHANGHAINESE DUMPLINGS

prevent their eyes from d Tai Zi Heen’s Chef Micha the crustaceans are chec crabs are served to custo graded according to the either grams or the old C taels. In Malaysia, the ava from around 150 grams taels). During the beginn only the male crabs are h ing to Chef Ng, at the en people favour the femal up with more roe that ha colour and creamier text mends the best way to e ask for a pair of male and you to fully enjoy their in ties.

DRAGON-I BRAISED BEANCURD WITH HAIRY CRAB MEAT AND ROE

For the past few years, the restaurant brings in these specially picked Tai Lake crustaceans on a weekly basis. The seasonal delicacy is celebrated in a huge way with special a la carte dishes, set menus and takeaway deals. Dine on braised beancurd with hairy crab and roe for RM48++, or steamed Shangahinese meat dumplings (RM20+ for three dumplings). You can also order just the steamed hairy crab, priced at RM68++ per crab (about 180grams) or RM98++ (about 250 grams). The six-course set menu is RM138++ per person during weekdays (RM168++ per person for weekends), for a minimum of two persons. The set includes steamed Shanghainese crab roe dumplings, a steamed hairy crab that weights about 180 grams. For a decadent meal, the chain restaurant also offers a hairy crab and sharks fin set menu for RM198++ per person, for a minimum of two persons. For those who prefer to enjoy the crustacean in the comfort of their home, you can purchase a hairy crab gift box packed in dry ice. The box priced at RM198+ contains four pieces of hairy crabs, a scissors, ginger, vinegar and detailed instructions for you to steam the crab at home. The hairy crab promotion ends on December 25. For details, call Tel:03-77221888. The promotion is available at all Dragon-I outlets in Mid Valley Megamall, 1 Utama Shopping Centre, Sunway Pyramid, The Curve, Cheras Leisure Mall, AEON Bukit Tinggi Shopping Centre, Setia City Mall, and Pavilion Kuala Lumpur. It is also in Queensbay Mall and Gurney Plaza in Penang, and AEON Station 18 in Ipoh.

FRIDAY 19 OCTOBER 2012

5 SEN5ES OVEN BAKED BLACK COD WITH HAIRY CRAB ROE CREAM

KING

drying out,” says ael Wong. Every day, cked, as only live omers. The crabs are eir sizes, measured in Chinese way, using ailable sizes range to 300 grams (4 to 7 ning of the season, harvested. Accordnd of the season, le crabs as it plumps as a bright golden ture. He recomenjoy the crabs is to d female. This allows ndividual special-

Be sensible when eating the crabs though as they have a cooling effect on the body. Drink up the sweetened ginger tea served at the end. The drink warms the body and rebalances your metabolism. For those who are physically unfit, suffer fatigue and vertigo, it is not recommended they consume the crabs as it can lead to stomach discomfort. All around Kuala Lumpur, Chinese restaurants have started to serve the crustacean. The best way to enjoy the crab is to steam it with basil leaves. The meat is delicately picked from its small body and dipped with a ginger-vinegar dip that brings forth its sweet fresh taste. Some places also show their creative streak and devise menus using the crab’s delicate meat and creamy roe.

ELEGANT INN Renowned for their exquisite Hong Kong cuisine, the restaurant showcases the seasonal delicacy in a creative six-course set menu for RM138++ per person (minimum order of two persons). The hairy crab sourced from Tai Lake is served steamed for diners to enjoy the creamy buttery golden roe and its sweet flesh. Here it is served as a main course, after you nibbled your way through the appetizer of a PAN-FRIED ESTUARY GAROUPA pan-fried meat cake with SLICE WITH PRAWNS salted fish and drank the nourishing double boiled chicken soup with porcini mushrooms, fish maw and conch. The crab is followed by the creative pairing of a pan-fried estuary garoupa slice with minced prawns drizzled with superior soy sauce. The main course ends with fragrant lotus leaf rice topped with diced chicken in a delicious abalone sauce. Lastly, dessert is a refreshing double boiled hasma with snow pear, snow fungus and served with a sesame ball filled with peanut paste. The crabs can also be ordered a la carte, a 5 tael male crab is RM78++ and a 6 tael male crab is RM108++. The promotion will be available till end of November or early December, depending on the availability of the crabs. Second Floor, Podium Block Menara Hap Seng, Kuala Lumpur Tel:03-20709399, 16 Jalan Waras, Taman Connaught, Cheras, Kuala Lumpur, Tel:03-91302626 (Open for Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only).

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TAI ZI HEEN BRAISED SHARK’S FIN SOUP WITH HAIRY CRAB

MANGO PUDDING WITH PASSIONFRUIT SAUCE

Chef Ng Kok Wai has prepared the delicacy in all forms here including the classic steamed version for RM138++, that is served with an aromatic ginger tea. He uses the delicate meat and roe to top a flaky oven baked cod (RM88++), which is finished with a delicate egg white sauce. For a tummy satisfying meal, try the handmade giant dumplings (RM29++) filled with prawns GIANT HAIRY CRAB DUMPLING and the delicate sweet IN SUPERIOR BROTH flesh of the hairy crab and its prized roe. Other dishes using the precious hairy crab include braised Hong Kong E-fu noodles, stewed Shanghainese lion head meatball, braised soup with fish maw and baked fresh mushrooms. The crustacean is sourced from Yangcheng Lake and the average size is around 200 grams. The promotion is available till October 31.

This pork-free restaurant offers crab lovers variety to keep their tummies happy. The crabs are imported from Yangcheng Lake, complete with their own identification tags to avoid counterfeits. You can order Chef Michael Wong’s a la carte specials or the six-course set menu for RM245++ per person (minimum two persons order). The set menu includes a steamed hairy crab that is served with ginger tea. You can also enjoy a light braised seafood soup with spinach and egg white, steamed cod with bean curd and the unusual sea asparagus with vegetables. The menu also includes aromatic wok-fried rice topped with Japanese scallops and crabmeat. Dessert is a tangy ending with a creamy mango pudding paired with a passionfruit sauce. Specially for those who hate to get their hands dirty, the crustacean’s sweet meat and roe can be enjoyed in the a la carte dishes, with stir-fried egg white, cooked in smooth porridge or even with braised shark’s fin soup. Prices range from RM95++ to RM120++ for these dishes. For a decadent treat, the restaurant also serves sea cucumber stuffed with minced prawns and topped with hairy crab meat and roe (RM155++). The promotion ends October 31.

Westin Kuala Lumpur, 199, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur. Tel:03-27738338.

Prince Hotel & Residence Kuala Lumpur, Level 2, Jalan Conlay, Kuala Lumpur. Tel:03-21708888.

SHANGHAI RESTAURANT SHANGHAI’S HAIRY CRABS

STEAMED HAIRY CRAB

LAI PO HEEN For the month of November, Chef Ricky Thein has whipped up an a la carte menu featuring the crustacean in its glory. The crabs come from two sources, Yangcheng Lake and Tai Lake. Each crab is estimated to be about 100g. The restaurant offers two choices of steamed crab with each dish priced at RM128++. One is served plain and another variety with herbal leaf and enoki mushrooms. Special dishes concocted by Chef Ricky include a homemade tofu topped with superior sauce, hairy crab, bamboo pith and asparagus (RM46++) and an unusual baked hairy crab with scallops, capsicums, cheese in an avocado (RM128++). And for something truly luxurious, end with the Braised superior bird’s nest with hairy crab meat and roe (RM228++). Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur, Kuala Lumpur City Centre, Kuala Lumpur. Tel:03-23808888.

Tuck into hairy crab delights prepared by Shanghai native Chef Wong Wing Yeuk. Famed for their steamed Shanghainese dumplings (xiao long bao) that encase a piping hot soup, the crustacean’s golden roe is also added into the delicate folds of the dumpling (RM13 per piece) for a decadent treat. Chef Wong also adds the sweet hairy crab and creamy roe to steamed bamboo fish, a soup with West Lake vegetables and on top of a crispy rice cracker. You can also enjoy the crustacean in various types of noodles, including the Shanghai specialty of chewy glutinous rice cake. The restaurant also serves a six-course set menu for RM268++ per person that includes a steamed hairy crab. The crustaceans are sourced from Tai Lake. Prices for the steamed crab ranges from RM230 onwards for a 200g size crab. The promotion is until end of November. JW Marriott Kuala Lumpur, First Floor, 183, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, Tel:03-27198288.

EDITORIAL NOTE by Lee Khang Yi

Crave Editor

One of the most delicious times in the year is the hairy crab season. The sweet tasting crustaceans with its precious golden roe is a must for any crab lover. It’s an eating edition, as we also review Vietnam House and Zuo in Publika. The digital edition covers eats around Singapore. Email me at khangyi@mmail.com.my with any feedback. Cover picture credit to Dragon-I.

ADVERTISING SALES Rajan Gopal Senior Manager, Direct & Classiﬁeds Direct line: 03 74951282 rajan@mmail.com.my

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FRIDAY 19, OCTOBER 2012

THE MALAY MAIL

VIVA VIETNAM BY Eu Hooi Khaw

ONCE in a while I crave for a comforting bowl of Vietnamese pho or beef noodles. There are not many places in the Klang Valley you can go for a fix, though there are the old Vietnamese stalwarts like Vietnam Kitchen and Du Viet. Recently we were in Vietnam House in 1 Utama, a restaurant that I dined for three times since it opened more than a year ago. Here I had the Beef Noodles (RM13.90) in a beef stock, bouncy beef balls and slices of beef, and the requisite raw beansprouts and sweet basil leaves. It was truly comfort food. For starters, the two of us shared a trio of appetizers. The Steamed rice rolls with dried shrimps (RM6.90) came with four small rolls topped with aromatic dried prawns and chopped bird-eye chillies. It didn’t seem as smooth and soft as the first time I had sampled them. Luckily, the Vietnamese steamed rice cakes (RM6.90) had a lovely silky texture, which gave a slight resistance when I dipped the spoon into it. Scattered on top of each rice cake were dried shrimps, mung beans and chopped spring onions. On the side, there was the ubiquitous nuoc cham, a light fish sauce dip with sugar, lemon juice, and cut red chillies. The rice cakes made delicate bites but we felt it was under seasoned. Once we added a dash of soy sauce, they tasted perfect. Fine crispy strips of deep fried yam, carrots, onions, crunchy squid, and fresh coriander were in the Yam salad with squid (RM12.90), all tossed in a sweet dressing. Even though the sweetness overwhelmed

the salad, I liked the crispy bite of the yam and fresh squid. In addition to the beef noodles, we also had the Fried glass noodles with crabmeat (RM15.90). The slithery smooth, transparent noodles were moist and delicious, with crabmeat, chicken and mushrooms in it and topped with shredded lettuce and omelette strips. Dessert was the Sago banana with coconut milk (RM6.90). We loved it when we dug up chunks of tapioca. Together with the sweet banana and sago pearls, it made a delightful combination. The restaurant also serves combo sets. These are served with a mango salad, soup, rice, Vietnamese deep fried spring rolls and your main course selection. The lightly hot tasting salad is tossed with agar-agar strips, carrot, mango and served on a crispy black sesame rice cracker. From the main course selections, the Chicken braised in fresh coconut Juice with egg (RM16.90) is tummy comforting. It comes with a delicious sauce laced with the sweet coconut juice, which goes well with rice. Similarly, the Flaming Seafood (RM20.90) is a tasty dish with fresh seafood tossed in a light sauce and served on a hotplate. I always find the Soursop Milkshake (RM6.90) irresistible in a Vietnamese restaurant, and the one at Vietnam House is no exception. It’s a thick, creamy smoothie, with the fibrous fruit and distinctive aroma that make it so refreshingly good. Vietnam House, S122, Level 2, 1 Utama Shopping Centre (Old Wing), Bandar Utama, Petaling Jaya. Tel: 03-7727 0778. Open daily: 11am to 10pm. The place is pork-free.

The colourful entrance to Vietnam House

The crunchy and sweet tasting yam salad

The soursop milkshake

Sweet and sour chilli prawns

Sauteed aubergine

Choy poh omelette

nasi lemak

Steamed minced pork

Zuo’s modern look

HOME COOKED GOODNESS Word of mouth recommendations often hit the mark like Zuo, this small eatery located within the Publika mall’s food court. The place prides itself for home cooked tastes that your mother would approve. It also upholds the belief that no MSG is added in their food. The eatery has a modern feel with painted murals on its cement walls. The pictures depict just a hint of its Chinese roots, with a bowl of steaming rice or even a Chinese spoon holding a prawn. Completing its modern look, you dine on light coloured wooden tables and long benches. Since discovering this eatery, it is now our go-to option for home cooked dishes. We like to start our meals here with a comforting bowl of their homemade daily soup. Zuo’s menu is designed for the solo diner, to be eaten with a bowl of steaming hot rice. Your choices are divided among poultry, seafood, pork, beef and vegetarian. Like any good Chinese eatery, it offers a wide selection of pork dishes. For larger groups, you can just order the dishes and omit the bowl of rice that accompanies it. Your grandma would approve of the Braised pork belly (RM12.90).

The melt-in-the-mouth pork belly slices is served with a sweet mustard cabbage , which goes well with rice. Thumbs up for the Steam minced pork with salted fish (RM9.90). The super soft texture of the minced pork patty flavoured with the aromatic salted fish and slivers of ginger is so appetising that you find yourself finishing the whole bowl of white rice in a jiffy. Recommended by a friend, the Bitter gourd minced pork miso (RM10.90) is an interesting combination of Japanese red miso that gives depth to the sauce that coats the diced bitter gourd and pork mince. For a sweeter tasting sauce, opt for the tomato based Sweet and sour chilli prawns (RM12.90). The deep fried prawns are cooked with capsicums, onions and chillies. For those opting to go vegetarian, the Aubergine sautéed with hot chili bean sauce (RM9.80) is a nice alternative with a mild chilli taste. In addition, side dishes such as vegetables and eggs can also be added to the meal. We sampled the Spinach stirfried with fu yue, chilli and ginger (RM4.90) and the Choy poh omelette (RM3.50) that makes a pleasant accompaniment with the meal. You can also order one-dish meals

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like noodles and fried rice. There are four varieties of fried rice, a vegetarian one, sambal prawn, bacon and the Lap cheong fried rice (RM9.90), a hot from the wok version with slices of the waxed meat sausage. Even the Nasi lemak with rendang pork (RM11.90) is skillfully prepared with a fluffy rice aromatic with coconut milk. The rendang pork is actually sliced pork cooked in curry. Nevertheless, the dish is tasty with the melt-in-the-mouth tender pork slices that you will enjoy every spoonful of the dish. The sambal is rather mild though so those who love their spicy food may find this not up to mark. The hot drinks are home brewed and not saccharine sweet like other places. You have choices like Hoy tai yeh (RM3.90) with the refreshing sea coconut and the unusual tangy Winter melon with lemon (RM3.50). For something unusual from the cold drinks selection, they pair soy bean milk with sweet corn instead of the usual cincau. Zuo, EAT Food Village, Lot FC3, Level UG, Publika Shopping Gallery, Solaris Dutamas, Jalan Dutamas 1, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03-614332281. Open daily: 10am to 10pm.

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MONDAY 17 SEPTEMBER 2012

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PASTRIES SERVED WITH THE BREAKFAST

THE ANTOINETTE BREAKFAST

THE FORBIDDEN FRUIT

MACARONS IN ALL KINDS OF FLAVOURS

SALAD ANTOINETTE

LE JARDIN

D’Antoinette T

he Parisian styled tea room named after France’s last queen is a tribute to all things French. It is a brainchild of Pang Kok Keong, who is well known for his French-styled pastries. The former Canele chef first opened the French tea rooms in Penhas Road. Following its overwhelming success, other outlets sprouted up at Mandarin Gallery, Scarlett Hotel and this latest one, which opened this July. It’s their largest outlet with two beautifully outfitted private rooms, with majestic chandeliers and daybeds to laze around. The main dining area is inspired by Versailles outdoor garden, with a gazebo that is draped with trellises and flowers. Ornate vintage furniture draped with floral backgrounds complete the whole Francophile look. This July, Pang unveiled new cakes that join his existing dainty collection of French-styled cakes. The Tart exotique may look like an egg from afar, but it is actually a combination of gula Melaka cremeux with a light coconut mousse, set on an almond base. And if you are wondering, that golden yolk on top is actually a passion fruit and mango coulis sphere. The flavours seem to clash instead of complement each other though in the dessert. Instead, we had better luck with the pretty Chloe, a dainty refreshing confection. It’s a mild light tasting dessert with a pairing of yuzu cremeux, white chocolate vanilla mousse, on a light sponge cake and almond sable. For something stronger, go for the Forbidden fruit. Since you’re not Adam or Eve, it is fine to indulge in this tart delicate cake with layers of green apple mousse, vanilla caramel apple, green apple jelly and financier. The tart flavours are lightened with the addition of maple cremeux. For a light lunch choice, opt for the Salad Antoinette. The mixed greens are given a refreshing touch with crab meat, pine nuts, tomatoes, and a tangy yuzu dressing. Alternatively, go for their all-day breakfast choices. The Antoinette breakfast will fill you up with a hefty plate of your choice of eggs, grilled bacon and sausage. On the side, it is served with croissants and brioche. Prices for the cakes start from SGD8.50 onwards.

B1-08/0 9/10C, Palais R enn 390 Orc aissance, ha Tel:+65- rd Road. 673563 92.

FRIDAY 19 OCTOBER 2012

CHYE SENG HUAT HARDWARE Java addicts now have a cool new place to hang out and surprisingly, it is located in offbeat Lavender. On the outside, the place looks like an Art Deco shop front. The facade fits seamlessly within the area, where you find construction companies, a temple and even old school shop houses decorated with intricate tiles. Look closely and you will find a small sign that directs you to a side entrance to coffee wonderland. Push through the glass doors to discover a redecorated space, with a 360 degree bar counter in the middle. The bar’s design allows customers to experience what goes on behind the brewing of their coffee by the baristas. On weekends, the place is packed to the brim, as everyone crowds here for their java fix, while vinyl music plays from a record player. This café bar is opened by the folks behind homegrown coffee aficionados, Papa Palheta, hence the coffee is incredibly good. You get a choice of various special coffee

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UMA UMA RAMEN WITH TAMAGO

blends, served hot and cold. For something stronger, go for their coffee beers, a light refreshing beer that bears a similarity to ale. You can also order cakes from the counter. Try the delicious brownie with a moist crumb or the old fashioned banana cake that tastes like how Mum would have baked. For those who are passionate about the brew, a special room called The Annex is reserved for coffee tastings. In the intimate tasting bar, customers can experience specially designed coffee tasting menus that showcases different coffees in various ways. The place also houses Papa Palheta’s 150 Tyrwhitt Road. central roastTel:+65-63960609. ery and their coffee school, C-Platform.

CHICKEN KARAAGE

BARISTAS AT WORK

YAKI CHASIU

UMA UMA RAMEN THE ART DECO FRONTAGE

SAY NO TO CAPSULE COFFEE

BANANA CAKE AND BROWNIE

The latest to join the ramen craze is this Fukuoka-based chain restaurant. It has the distinction of being owned by Ignatius Chan, who also own Iggys, a place that has the distinction of making it to the San Pellegrino World’s Best 50 restaurants. Chan has also teamed up with other Japanese partners, and they will also open up a kaiseki restaurant and a wine bar within the mall. The noodle chain specializes in Hakata style ramen made according to a decades old family recipe. Unlike the usual springy curly ramen noodles, these strands are straight with a softer silky bite. The menu is compact with only two broth choices: the tonkotsu broth and a spicy chasiu version. Unlike the fatty rich tonkotsu broth of other shops, Uma Uma’s version is milder, and you won’t feel overwhelmed by the rich broth. A dollop of spicy miso is also added to give it more depth. The spicy chasiu version won’t burn your tongue with its mild

taste. Each bowl is topped with chopped spring onions and black fungus. You can add a soft boiled egg for an extra SGD1 and you’ll get one with a gooey centre. The chicken karaage or deep-fried chicken makes good crispy bites to nibble and complement the meal. The yaki chasiu, grilled pork belly has a smoky taste with a melt-in-themouth texture. The compact 1,000 square #01-41/42/43, feet space Forum the makes it Shopping Mall, a strictly eat-and583, Orchard Road. go spot. Tel:+65-62351088 A bowl of ramen starts from SGD14 onwards.