Crave Feb 22 2013 by Crave Malay Mail

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APPRECIATING COFFEE Discover what goes into your cup of specialty coffee

DISCOVER SPECIALTY COFF

BEHIND EACH PERFECT CUP O BREW IS A MULTI-STEP PROC EXTRACT THE AROMA

Coffee drinkers in Malaysia are fortunate lot with the flourishing of specialty coffee places. However, to keep the industry going it is important to understand that behind your simple cup of coffee is a plethora of skills and procedures that goes into it from bean to brew. According to Barista Guild Asia Daniel Liew, specialty coffee is defined as coffee that has been grown, harvested, processed and distributed with quality as the main outcome. This type of coffee will also demand a higher price and a greater workload. — Photography Mohd Firdaus and courtesy of Racing Creatures Sdn. Bhd. THE WORLD OF COFFEE Legend claims, the birthplace of coffee was Ethiopia, where hungry goats first discovered coffee berries. As the story goes, a goat herder by the name of Kaldi chanced upon the berries after observing his goats high on the beans. The curious goat herder ate the berries that gave him a renewed energy. Eventually, monks learnt about the miracle of these berries. They dried the berries for storage, and reconstituted it with water to create a drink to give them energy for the long hours of evening prayers – the first cup of coffee! As word spread of this miracle brew, coffee was eventually brought over to the Arabian peninsula, which saw its eventual global spread. According to Liew, in the world of specialty coffees, different origins makes a difference to the flavour of the coffee, as this is caused by the land, soil conditions, climate and even water content. “Coffee connoisseurs often want to know where the coffee is from, which farm or even mountain, just like wines,” he says. Nowadays, there are three main coffee growing regions: Africa or Arabia, Asia, and Central or South America. The Africa region is well known for its heirloom coffee, which brings back the original DNA of coffee. In Asia, Indonesia is the biggest producer with Vietnam snapping

COFFEX COFFEE YEE FAI SHOWING HOW TO SORT OUT THE COFFEE BEANS

on its heels with its Robusta beans they started growing after the war. In recent years, India is one of the sixth largest coffee producers. “They produce an interesting blend known as Monsoon Malabar, processed with monsoon water,” Liew says. Even China has joined the coffee game. Coffee is also grown on our homeland, but usually it is Robusta and Liberica beans, grown on ground level. Almost every country in Asia grows coffee with the exception of Singapore and Brunei. In South America, Brazil is the big brother, being the largest producer of coffee in the world. Traditionally, coffee is a blend of various origins for different aspects of the coffee. However, with the growing quality of coffee planting, harvesting and roasting techniques, single origins are now emerging as what coffee lovers seek out for unique coffee ﬂavours and characteristics. SINGLE ORIGIN COFFEE BEANS

BARISTA GUILD ASIA DANIEL LIEW AND COFFEX COFFEE KELVIN NGOW AT PLAN B ROASTERS

SNIFFING THE AROMAS OF COFFEE BARISTA GUILD ASIA DAVID LEONG DEMONSTRATING THE HAND DRIP BREW METHOD

THE PROCESS Coffee is big business, as it’s the world’s second most traded commodity after crude oil. According to Liew, Arabica and Robusta beans are the two commercial blends usually traded. Arabica beans give the ﬂavour, acidity and aroma to your cup of coffee. However, the upper level grown bean (900 to 2,000 metres) contains less caffeine. Hence if you’re looking to stay wide-eyed, you should be drinking Robusta, found in your kopitiam cup of kopi-o, explains Liew. On its own, the ground level grown coffee is woody, earthy and bitter. The Italians also add Robusta beans to their coffee blends to give the brew a thick crema and caffeine kick. Every step of the process, affects what goes into your cup of coffee, whether it is a dry, wet or even a honey process that involves fermentation in its own juices. Coffee brewed from dried processed beans has a sweeter taste, less acid with a thicker body. With the wet processed beans, this creates a cleaner tasting brew with higher acidity, while the honey process gives you a sweet tasting brew with strong fruity aromas. Once these beans are dried, they

are bagged and sorted out. The green beans are graded visually according to size, and handpicked for defects. “It is important to handpick the beans, as a single black bean can spoil the whole taste of coffee, “ says Liew. Subsequently, the single origin beans are roasted. Usually, they are given a lighter roast to fully bring out its characteristics. Q graders will sample roast and go through the cupping process to determine the grade and quality of the coffee. Cupping is the sensory analysis of the coffee, to determine its score from its smell, taste and mouth feel. “In Malaysia, there are only three Q graders and they must sit through 22 sensory exams to qualify,” says Liew. According to Coffex Coffee Executive Director Kelvin Ngow who is a qualified Q grader, a Specialty Coffee Association of America Coffee Cupping form is used to report on the each of the coffee’s attributes from fragrance and aroma, flavour, acidity, body, sweetness, aftertaste, and balance, to score a final mark. Cuppers are also calibrated and judge the coffees on its characteristics and not the personal preferences. The overall score is usually a range from 6 (good) to

EXPERIENCING CUPPING FOR THE FIRST TIME

BREWING THE PERFECT ESPRESSO

9 (outstanding). For the cupping process, dried grounds are ﬁrst sniffed to assess its fragrance. Then the grounds are steeped, for 4 minutes to assess its aroma when the grounds are wet. Ngow advises, to take a spoonful of the brew, slurping it in the tongue to taste it. “As you cup the coffee, you will notice the aftertaste and the level of its acidity to assess its ﬂavour,” he says. Once you swallow the coffee, you can evaluate the brew’s body, whether it is a smooth and creamy or syrup

BREWED GROUNDS MIXED WITH WATER FOR THE CUPPING PROCESS

like texture. The graders even test at least ﬁve cups, to ensure uniformity in case of contamination. According to Ngow, the coffee is usually sweet, as it is given a light roast for cupping. This method reports on an objective manner on the grade of the coffee, which is then marked on the bag of the beans and sold to a consumer. Once it reaches the end user, the barista will use his or her skills to extract those ﬂavours from the beans, to create the perfect brew for your enjoyment.

FRIDAY 22 FEBRUARY 2013

THE MALAY MAIL

SHIROMARU MOTOAJI

OF YOUR CESS TO AS

FEE

PREPARING THE RAMEN STRAIGHT STRANDS OF THE HAKATA RAMEN NOODLES

PROBAT ROASTER

For the fourth year running, sixteen baristas from all over Malaysia will compete for the top barista title at the Malaysian Barista Championship from March 30 to 31. During the two-day competition at Blackbox, Publika, each contestant will be required to serve four espressos, four cappuccinos, and four own-recipe coffee drinks, for a panel of judges from Singapore, Japan, Australia and Malaysia. The baristas will be judged according to the World Barista Championship (WBC) rules, regulations and standards. The top barista will also snag a trip to Melbourne to observe the WBC in May 2013, together with a coffee tour and access to Melbourne International Coffee Expo, all courtesy of Tourism Victoria. The championship is sponsored by Publika, Barista Guild Asia, Racing Creatures, Coffex Coffee, Dankoff, Nouva Simonelli, Fiorenzato, Swatch and Farmhouse Milk.

PACKING THE ROASTED BEANS IN STORAGE BAGS TO KEEP FRESH

Shiromaru Motoaji – The all-time favourite uses a light on the palate tonkotsu broth made by boiling pig bones on a rolling boil for 15-20 hours. The tasty broth is said to be a combination of three levels of the boiled broth, to give it depth. This is served with ultra thin Hakata style noodles, belly chashu slices, spring onions, bean sprouts and kikurage. It costs RM26 for a basic bowl.

IPPUDO ARRIVES Popular Japanese ramen chain Yamane, who is concerned Ippudo is now open in Pavilion about the quality of service. IpKuala Lumpur. The iconic res- pudo placed people from their taurant boasts of a worldwide Singapore and Japan outlets network of 16 countries such as to train the Malaysian staff for Singapore, Hong Kong, Taiwan, three months. This included a China, Australia, South Korea, Malaysian, who once worked in and its home country Japan. Ip- Ippudo New York. The 73-seater restaurant pudo founder Shigemi Kawahara started from a small shop in boasts of modern interiors Fukuoka in 1985. “Nowadays, decked out in Ippudo’s corpothere is close to 40,000 people rate colours of red, white and around the world eating Ippudo black. “No two Ippudo restauramen every single day,” says rants are the same, and we Kawahara. The Ramen King, as always put a variation in the Kawahara is popularly known design for an element of suras, strongly upholds customer prise,” says Yamane. However, service. “I always think the very one permanent key design origin of all these ventures, element is the open kitchen, starts with one customer and where they cook the noodles. “The reason for the open kitchone bowl of ramen,” he says. Ippudo Malaysia is a joint ven- en is we consider the store as ture between Chikaranomoto a stage, the staff as actors and Company Limited (parent com- the customers the audience,” pany of Ippudo) and Calibre says Yamane. Wealth Management, which is headed by Dato’ THE MODERN Rosie Tan. AcINTERIOR OF cording to IpIPPUDO pudo Corporate Strategy & Overseas Operations Executive Tomo Yamane, the planning for their Malaysian foray took about EDITORIAL NOTE 2 ½ to 3 years. “Opening a restaurant is relatively straightfor- For me, coﬀee is a must to get ward but we didn’t just want to me through the day, hence I was thrilled to learn more open a restaurant, instead we about specialty coﬀee, and the want to deliver something to a Malaysian Barista Championship satisfactory level,” explained on March 30 to 31.

ALL ABOUT IPPUDO The restaurant serves Hakata-style noodles, which can be cooked to order with a choice of textures: hard or al dente to soft. You can also request for extra serving of noodles (Kaedama) for RM4. A basic bowl is served with belly chashu slices, spring onions and kikurage. Specialty bowls topped with ﬂavoured egg, simmered chashu and seaweed may also be ordered. The menu also includes appetizers like curry cheese haru maki, pork bun and Hakata style soup gyoza. The three types of ramen is:

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: REPRESENTATIVE FROM THE JAPANESE EMBASSY IN MALAYSIA SHIGEMI KAWAHARA AND DATO’ ROSIE TAN BREAKING THE SAKE BARREL TO MARK THE OPENING OF IPPUDO MALAYSIA

BATTLE OF THE BARISTAS

In terms of ingredients, Yamane explains that they plan to source for local ingredients, as a way to integrate with the locals. The Hakata-style noodles are brought in from their Singapore factory, which also supplies to their Singapore outlets. “There’s a slight difference in taste but it is still in the same league as Ippudo Japan,” says Yamane. Presently, they have introduced only the original three broths but in the future, Yamane does not rule out introducing more ramen varieties beyond their signature Hakata style. Plans are also in the pipeline to open three to four restaurants in Malaysia, for the next two to three years. However, he stresses expansion is not just on their minds, as customer satisfaction is foremost.

Akamaru Shinaji – This reﬁned modern ramen features the original tonkotsu broth topped with an umami dama or miso ball, and koyu or fragrant black garlic oil. It is served with thin noodles, belly chashu slices, spring onions and kikurage. It is RM28 for a basic bowl.

Karaka-Men – This combines the original tonkotsu broth topped with a special spicy miso and ground pork meat, for a mildly spicy broth. It is served with belly chashu slices and chopped spring onions. Price is RM28 for a basic bowl.

Ippudo, Level 4, C4.07.00, Connection Precinct, Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, 168, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur. Tel:03-21106233. Open daily: 11am to 11pm. (No reservations policy).

by Lee Khang Yi

ADVERTISING SALES

Crave Editor

Iconic ramen giant Ippudo has also landed on our shores so you can satisfy those ramen cravings. Last but not least, dine on juicy tandoori chicken at Uncle Aru’s or grab a crispy pork knuckle at

Bavarian House. If you have any queries, email me at khangyi@ mmail.com.my

Rajan Gopal

Cover picture: Courtesy of Tourism Victoria.

Direct line: 03 74951282 rajan@mmail.com.my

Senior Manager, Direct & Classifieds

friDAY 22 FEBRUARY 2013

GERMAN I N T E R L U D E

tandoori chicken

Quick cooking skills are needed to monitor the tandoor oven

BY Eu Hooi Khaw

delicious butter naan

cooking the naan in the oven

Keema

TANTALISING TANDOORI ONE OF AMPANG’S best-kept secret is this non-descript tandoori and naan stall right opposite Ampang Point. Regulars know this no signboard stall as Uncle Aru’s, a fond nickname given to the owner Mr. Arumugam who has been in business for the past 20 years. Apparently, he picked up his skills from a North Indian chef, and nowadays this familyrun stall makes the juiciest tandoori chicken and fluffy naans from their sole tandoor oven. Get here early to grab a piece of the action, as the crowd tends to swell up later in the night. The tandoori chicken (RM5) is a must-order, with its juicy meat full of the flavours from the tandoori and yoghurt marinade. The chicken pieces on metal skewers are partially cooked ahead, to save serving time. When orders are placed, they are heated up on the tandoor oven. In addition to the chicken, they also serve a fish version for RM8,

using ikan tenggiri pieces. The fish just needs a squeeze of lime juice to balance out its taste. On the menu, they also offer mutton kebab and mutton masala, which are rather average tasting. Opt instead for the keema masala (RM4), with its mutton mince and spicy overtones. Balance out the heat on the tongue with the pureed spinach (RM3.50) or the creamy mixed vegetables dish. The naans are also superb and well worth the wait for a piping hot version. The traditional North Indian flatbread is prepped only upon order. Watch as the workers skillfully roll out the prepared dough, stretch it on a cloth pad, and swiftly attach it on the side of the blistering hot tandoor oven fueled by the red hot coals. Their astute cooking skills see them producing hot from the oven naans with a fluffy soft texture and a slightly

THE MALAY MAIL

blistered crust. One bite of the naan, will have you hankering for a second order, or even a third. The price for the naans, range from RM1.50 to RM5. Take your pick from garlic, butter, onion, cheese, or a kashimiri version with fruits. Our favourite is the butter naan, as the butter melts over the soft flatbread to give it an appetising salty edge. The stall is located within a food court filled with other places that sell eats such as satay, noodles, chicken rice, soups and nasi lemak, to stave off hunger pangs as you wait for your meal. Order your drinks or even cool down with ais kacang from the neighbouring stall. Regulars also know to call ahead to book their tandoori items and naan.

IT WAS THE FIRST day of Chinese New Year and we were looking for restaurants – not Chinese – to have dinner at. It was a stroke of luck that Bavarian House in Taman Desa was open. We were there early, and as it was a cool evening, we chose to sit outside the restaurant. It’s atmospheric inside Bavarian House. You would be drawn to huge posters of great men smoking cigars, including Winston Churchill, John Kennedy and Fidel Castro. Bavarian House is all about pork – think German roasted pork knuckle, pork ribs, bacon, grilled pork belly, sausages, and pork burger. But there are also salads and pastas, even fish and chips on the menu. There were four of us, and we picked the Garlic herb pork knuckle and the Sausage platter. We also added Caesar’s and Garden salads. A beer is a must when you are having a German pork knuckle, and the Erdinger Weissbier (RM34 per pint), a dark, rich and smooth wheat beer was just fabulous. It was the third time I was having this beer, and I liked its fullbodied flavour with a tinge of sweetness. The salads came first. The Caesar’s salad (RM18) was loaded with bacon atop crisp romaine lettuce leaves, tossed with a garlic dressing. Together with crispy croutons, hard-boiled egg slices, and a generous sprinkling of Parmesan cheese, it was a hearty sal-

The sausage platter

ad. Hearty would also describe the rest of the meal, apart from the Green Salad (RM15), a mix of frisee leaves, tomatoes and sliced onions, which we conscientiously tucked in. The Sausage platter (RM85) is for two, as listed in the menu. But it can easily feed at least five people, if you are sharing other main courses as well. The platter has grilled bacon and seven varieties of juicy sausages: farmer bratwurst, Nuernberger, pork frankfurter, Thueringer, Emmenthaler, Hungarian, chorizo. A garlic mayonnaise, habanero mayonnaise and mustard accompanied the sausages, as well as a generous portion of sauerkraut and potato salad. Just this alone was a feast. For me it’s mustard, and not mayonnaise that goes with the sausages. Perhaps if there had been more garlic or habanero chillies, in the mayonnaise, it would have been better. My favourites on the platter were the farmer bratwurst, with its bouncy bite,

Caesar’s Salad — generous with bacon

Stall next to Galeri Guitar, Opposite Ampang Point, Off Jalan Ampang. Open:6.30pm to 1am. Tel:012-3545624. Crave pays for all its meals and all its reviews are conducted anonymously.

the Thueringer with its deep spiced flavours, and the juicy pork frankfurters. I was grateful for the tart sauerkraut which acted as a great palate cleanser to temper out the richness of the sausages. The four of us just couldn’t finish this platter, and ended packing half of the sausages home. The Garlic herb pork knuckle (RM72) was presented with a flourish, with a knife and a fork stuck in it. This was one of the better pork knuckles I have tasted so far. The skin was crispy while the meat, with hints of garlic, was juicy, tender and naturally sweet. It came with a heap of sauerkraut, which alleviated the richness of the meat. Normally, it is served with mashed potatoes, but we asked for potatoes sautéed with onions instead, that was a better combination. We were so filled up by this time, with the knuckle, sausages and beer, we couldn’t even manage a dessert. But I would have loved to have tried their Apple strudel or the Sticky chocolate sponge pudding (RM12), both served with whipped cream and vanilla ice-cream. In future, I would also like to go back for the Hickory pork burger (RM19) or Oven-baked pork ribs with dark beer gravy (RM48). Bavarian House, No 2, Jalan 4/109E, Desa Business Centre, Taman Desa, Jalan Klang Lama, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03-7980 3900, 012-260 3194. Open daily:11am -1am. Garlic Herb Pork Knuckle

The interior of Bavarian House