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Gl ennY ungni c k el , Des i gner . CCOa tD&M
“ MAKI NGOURCRAF TOUROCCUP AT I ON”
I fy oua r ei nt er es t edi ndes i gn, f a s hi on, a ndl oc a l bus i nes s —y ous houl dbepa y i ngc l os ea t t ent i ont oCr ea t i v eCommonOc c upa t i on( CCO) . T hes pa r k l ynewc ol l ec t i v eofNewZea l a nd ba s eddes i gner sa r es ha r i ngt hei rpa s s i onf or “ ma k i ng” i na ne x c i t i ngs er i esofs howr ooms , e x hi bi t i onsa ndr et a i l out l et s . Wi t h‘ oc c upa t i ons ’ c omi ngupi nv a r i ouss pa c esa r oundAuc k l a nd i nAugus t , S ept ember , Nov embera ndJ a nua r y ,CCOofferawi der a ngeofdes i gne x per t i s e a ndpr a c t i c es .
“ Wha tdr a wsust oget heri sa phy s i c a l c onnec t i ont ot he c ompl et epr oc es sofma k i ng” . I ti sdi ffic ul tt ogett het er mi nol ogyr i ghtwi t ht hes es or t s ofev ent s , ‘ e x hi bi t i on’ s eemedal i t t l ei na c c es s i bl ebut “ s hop” c er t a i nl ydi dn’ tt … Wewa ntpeopl et oc omea nd e x per i enc ewha tgooddes i gna ndqua l i t ya r t i s a na l ma k i ng i si nt hef or m ofobj ec t s , t ha ty es , y ouc a nbuy . Butwego t ogr ea tl engt hst odes i gnaf ul l e x per i enc ea nd‘ s hoppi ng’ i sonl yones ma l l pa r toft ha t …T hena t ur eofours hows ha sbeent ha tweoc c upya ndt r a ns f or ms pa c esa r ound Auc k l a ndf oraf ewda y sa tt i me , a nds owes et t l edon “ Oc c upa t i on” . T hel a s ts howr oom a tD&Mi nPons onbye x hi bi t eda nd r et a i l ed8+des i gner swor k i ngi nMensa ndWomens f a s hi on, f r om t hepl a y f ul a nde x a gger a t eds t r eet wea rof Kev aRa ndst ot hemor ee x per i ment a l wor kofS t ev en Pa r k s ’ l a bel 6X4. T her ewer ea l s oas pec t r um ofdes i gner s ma k i ngha ndc r a f t edl ea t hergoods , j ewel r y , a nd homewa r e . Wha tdr a wsust oget heri saphy s i c a l c onnec t i ont ot hec ompl et epr oc es sofma k i ng.
Apr i l Ha s z a r d Pa t t er nc ut t i ng.
EVE RYDAYNE E DS&MYDE E RF OX Cr ea t i v eCommonOc c upa t i ona t4Cr os sS t
Al l pr es sGa l l er y Oc c upa t i on# 3 CCO’ sOc c upa t i on# 3wi l l beoc c ur r i ngi nAugus t , r unni ngpa r a l l el t oNewZea l a ndF a s hi on Week . I twi l l bei nt er es t i ngt opr ov i deapl a c ewher et hema k i ngpr oc es si sa sc el ebr a t eda st he c ompl et ega r ment st hems el v es , es pec i a l l ya tat i mewhent hepubl i ca r es oenga gedi nt he l oc a l f a s hi oni ndus t r y .
“ t hi spa r t i c i pa t i onc oul doper a t el i k eaper s onc ook i ngf ort hems el v esa thome: t heybr ows et hef r i dgea nds ea r c ht hr ought he pa nt r y , pi c k i ngupbi t soft hi sa ndha ndf ul soft ha t , ma k i ngi tup a st heygoa l ong” T ot hi sendwewi l l beoc c upy i ngt heAl l pr es sGa l l er y , t hes howwi l l bec onc ept ua l l ydr i v enby i nt er i ordes i gner sAl e xGut hr i ea ndBi l l i ePopov i c : “ Ac onc eptwec a meupwi t ha sas t a r t i ng poi ntf ort hi nk i nga boutt hi se x hi bi t i oni s“ Gour metDes i gn” . Wes a yt hi swi t hhumour-we ha v enot edt hega l l er y’ sr el a t i ons hi pwi t ht hec a f és pa c ene x tdoor . Wea l s onot edt hegr oup’ s i nt er es ti nt hepos s i bi l i t yoff os t er i nga udi enc e/ v i s i t orpa r t i c i pa t i on. Wei ma gi net ha tt hi spa r t i c i pa t i onc oul doper a t el i k eaper s onc ook i ngf ort hems el v esa thome: t heybr ows et hef r i dge a nds ea r c ht hr ought hepa nt r y , pi c k i ngupbi t soft hi sa ndha ndf ul soft ha t , ma k i ngi tupa s ” t heygoa l ong.
“ Wes a yt hi swi t hhumour ” “ T her ei sagoodf oodr ev ol ut i ongoi ngs t r ongi nAuc k l a nd, a ndwee x pec tt os eei t sr a pi de x pa ns i ont a k i ngmor ea ndmor eoft hema r k et . Whynotf a s hi ona nddes i gn?Wec a ns eei t sa l r ea dyha ppeni nga tCCO.
ROGUES OCI ETYGI N& S T EVE NJ UNI LP ARK Cr ea t i v eCommonOc c upa t i on a tD&M
Vi deo:
www. y out ube . c om/ wa t c h? v =5x X8_QKE gg
1. LISA LI MYDEERFOX Lisa Li graduated from AUT in 2010. Her graduating project included a range of laser cut leather jackets that were pieced together by an interlocking technique, marking the beginning of the journey to establishing MYDEERFOX in 2012. MYDEERFOX is an accessories design project based in Auckland. The project proposes a playful and minimalistic construction alternative to the conventional leather accessories production, where each design is buildable from a DIY assembly kit. The process translates into curious forms and re-‐interpretation of classic shapes, seeking to define a kind of simple luxury that is different from step one. 2. TOM PRESS TOM PRESS Tom Press wants to make clothes that push the boundaries of existing fashion, but is quick to acknowledge the commercial realities of product design. After recently completing a bachelor of design majoring in fashion, producing a collection of Menswear, he acknowledges that the simplicity of his garments does give them some mass appeal. Yet his aesthetic comes from his own interest in minimalism, from an attempt to minimise excess, to cut back to the essentials of what one truly needs. Tom says the attraction to fashion design partly comes from the challenge of making New Zealand men interested in further developing the existing social norms of clothing and the excitement of being part of what is still an underdeveloped, but burgeoning, industry. 3. GLENN YUNGNICKEL YUNGNICKEL After working in the New Zealand fashion industry and fashion education since 2008, Glenn Yungnickel graduated with his MA&D with Honours from AUT University in 2013. Glenn’s work responds to the effects of mass production and mass-‐ consumerism on design systems and specifically on the participatory function of the designer; a function that has shifted from the artisan, closely and physically connected to his or her work, to a more impersonal, industrialised model. His work is grounded on designer-‐maker ideals which is supported by his observations and interpretation of ‘slow fashion’ as a direct response to the mass market. 4. JYOTI KALYANJI EVERYDAY NEEDS Jyoti Kalyanji creates knitted textile designs with a focus on homewares and soft furnishings. In recent years she has built her practice on electronic, seamless knit
technology, developing programming skills to open up access to the technology's unique potential for 3-‐dimensional textile fabrication. In combining this technical knowledge with design experience she developed a small range of seamlessly knitted homeware and soft furniture products for her Master of Art and Design. She is currently studying towards a PhD at AUT University, taking these personal explorations further through collaborative product developments. Jyoti is particularly interested in innovative applications of the technology’s 3-‐ dimensionality, translation of 2D programmes into 3D knitted forms, and aesthetic expression through interplay of colour, pattern and texture. 5. FRANCES HASZARD FRANCES HASZARD Frances Haszard is a self taught illustrator and designer. She works in a range of mediums including hand-‐drawn animation, ceramics, and dyes. Across mediums she exaggerates flaws and diminishes the status and end use of her pieces to convey the poetry of handmade, everyday material things. 6. STEVEN JUNIL PARK 6x4 Steven Junil Park’s label 6x4 is a conceptual design label. Using artisanal practices it produces objects with inherent utility and purpose: clothing, furniture, shoes, accessories, homewares, etc. 6x4 clothing is divided into two lines: “6x4 (remodelled)”, and “6x4”. The “6x4 (remodelled)” line consists of one-‐off pieces which have been re-‐made from pre-‐existing garments, while the “6x4” line consists of one-‐off garments which have not. In the production of new clothing in the “6x4” line both new and used materials are utilised. Many are found, donated, decaying, had a previous function or were not originally intended for use in clothing. 6x4 clothing consciously aims to maintain a simplicity and truth to material; both in the production of the garments and in their use. The nature of the materials used and the processes of production are equally as important as their design. The materials’ potential to communicate social/economic meaning is acknowledged and responded to. Clothing conventions between genders, cultures and social groups are examined and pulled apart. 6x4 clothing aims to inspect, and interact with the cultural meaning involved in traditional modes of garment production. By placing materials within broader contexts it aims to expand the borders of clothing convention. 7. KEVA RANDS KEVA RANDS Keva’s work focuses on colour and exaggerated shape, which introduces an element of playfulness into street wearable clothing.
8. WYNN HAMLYN WYNN HAMLYN After studying fashion at both AUT University and Dunedin Polytechnic he has gone on and launched his eponymous label WYNN HAMLYN. 9. APRIL HASZARD APRIL HASZARD April Haszard is a fashion designer working in Auckland, New Zealand. Her final collection at AUT focused on the idea of morphing traditional menswear shapes and toying with the awkward. After working in the fashion industry for 4 years, she has begun to develop a new womenswear collection. Her thoughtfully constructed designs are guided by the aesthetic ideal that form should follow function, developing honest clothing, which translates to the everyday, while avoiding the pedestrian. 10. ELISABETH KWAN ELISABETH KWAN As a designer, Elisabeth takes pleasure in experimentation with her approach to pattern cutting, fabrication and textures. The results of these processes are playful yet thorough and executed with precision at every step. The ideas and inspirations for Elisabeth's designs begin as a form of communication for her. This communication stems from her own experiences and expressions of her emotions. Through this expression, Elisabeth aspires to design products that are intrinsically original with an intention of timelessness and longevity. Elisabeth enjoys using leather, cotton, silk, linen and vintage lace for comfort and ecological reasons. All products are handmade in New Zealand. At present Elisabeth is working as a one-‐ woman operation, handcrafting all products in-‐studio herself. She is currently focusing on leather accessories and later hopes to fulfill her vision of working with sleepwear, loungewear and ready-‐to-‐wear. 11. SARA ANDREWS ANDREWS Sara Andrews believes in a strong connection between design and making. “I approach the making or cutting of a garment with the same attitude in which I use to design, in my process they cannot be separated”. This attitude employs ideas related to Punk ideologies and a DIY attitude. She is heavily influenced by music, art and popular culture even if it is in opposition. Her passions are experimenting with cutting techniques, and developing texture whether through cut, or fabrication. Sara completed a BDes (Hons) at AUT University and has worked in several sectors of the New Zealand Fashion Industry.
12. JEBBE UNTHANK JEBBE UNTHANK Form and Function. Both cannot work in isolation. Interested in exploring the design of menswear that sacrifices neither form nor function. Simplicity and comfort are fundamental elements in his design, without forgoing significant levels of development and exploration. Designing with consideration that goes beyond just individual garments and considers the importance of outfits and inter-‐relationships within those outfits. Jebbe created a 3rd year collection from AUT’s Bachelor of Fashion Design that he approached through this angle. Designing strict outfits that had very specific and thought out combinations, created a somewhat uncommercial collection of heavily simplified garments that were strong as outfits alone. He has a heavy curiosity in subtle colour work, creating fascinating combinations that are fresh yet understated. Jebbe is optimistic about the potential for a developing menswear market within New Zealand and hopes to be a part of the development of this market. 13. CLAIRE HANSELL & JARED FAASALELE GOOD WINTER GOOD WINTER handcrafts leather goods using both classic and modern techniques. An enduring philosophy to combine the timeless, relevant and the elegant. 14. LINDA JONES & GLENN YUNGNICKEL RAINCOAT RAINCOAT is an Auckland based which focuses on developing rainwear for an urban environment. 15. APRIL HASZARD & FRANCES HASZARD BACKWATER BACKWATER is hand printed and designed in a collaboration between two sisters. We create limited run prints and embroidery on comfy casual shapes. Frances Haszard creates the drawings while April Haszard makes the shapes.
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J ebbeUnt ha nk 0212355289 j ebbe . unt ha nk @gma i l . c om Ourwebs i t ei sc omi ngs oon, i twi l l pr ov i dei nf or ma t i ona boutCCO, doc ument a t i onofpa s tev ent sa ndbi gpl a nsf orf ut ur eev ent s . I twi l l a l s oha v el i nk st ot hedes i gner si ndi v i dua l webs i t esdedi c a t edt ot hei r ownl a bel a ndonl i nes hops .