Open House Food Service May 2015 Issue by Creative Head Media Pty Ltd

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MAY 2015

Home grown heroes Flavour forecast gets spicy Australia’s culinary heritage

Premium partnership Mövenpick & RoyalCDS

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CONTENTS

ON THE COVER

Swiss ice cream maker Mövenpick has teamed up with gourmet food company RoyalCDS to bring its Super-Premium range of ice creams and sorbets to the foodservice sector.

Regulars 04 Editor’s word

06 News

Print Post Approved PP100020878

12 In season APRIL 2015

13 10 things Food on film

Features

14 Origins Sandwich

10 Cover story Mövenpick partners with RoyalCDS

15 Q&A Mimmo Lubrano, Sandhurst Fine Foods

16 Australian made The push to keep it local

32 Regional snapshot Geelong, VIC

22 Apprentices Supporting the next generation

34 Cooking the books

24 Event report Sydney raises a glass for Malbec World Day

36 Products 38 Profile Jean Michel Raynaud 39 Australian Culinary Federation news

Catering on the move Fast food goes hipster Kangaroo bounces back OH0415.indd 1

26 Herbs and spices McCormick Flavour Forecast’s global taste sensations 28 Heritage Celebrating Australia’s heritage through food

Competitions The foodservice industry gives back to chefs

Pail to plate Sandhurst Fine Foods 30/04/2015 9:33 am

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EDITOR’S WORD

Best in show G

iven Australia’s clement weather, bounty of top quality produce, stand out wine and love of the outdoors it is no wonder we have so many festivals dedicated to food and wine. This month is a standout with the Noosa International Food & Wine Festival (May 14-17) attracting so many of the nation’s best culinary and wine producing talent it would probably be easier just to name those not going. Food, wine, music and fun – what’s not to love.

Published in Australia by Creative Head Media Pty Ltd Suite 202, 80-84 Chandos Street, St Leonards 2065 P.O. Box 189, St Leonards 1590 Website: www.openhousemagazine.net ACN 147 436 280 ISSN 0312-5998

Port Douglas Carnivale is expecting more than 10,000 people for its opening weekend later this month, with signature events the Jansz Longest Lunch and Feast Port Douglas among the highlights. Heading west, Broome’s Cable Beach Polo (May 30-31) will see its regular Dining Under the Stars dinner return.

PUBLISHER Alexandra Yeomans

The Hunter Valley Wine Festival has shifted to June to become part of Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month, bringing yet more wining and dining opportunities matched with music and yes fun.

MANAGING EDITOR Sheridan Randall

Looking further ahead, early bird registrations are now open for Australia’s largest food festival, The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Month, which returns in October under the reigns of new creative director Myffy Rigby. Over a million punters ate and drank their way through the celebration of food last year, so we can expect a fairly healthy turn out this year. And to cap it off this month is Aussie Wine Month, offering yet another opportunity to raise a glass.

JOURNALIST Anastasia Prikhodko

And what does all this mean for the industry in general? It means that the Australian public can’t get enough of their locally made food and wine, a sure sign of a sector in rude health. Cheers to that!

PRODUCTION CO-ORDINATOR Anne Esteban

GENERAL MANAGER Michelle Cullen

ACCOUNT MANAGER James Zantis DESIGN/PRODUCTION MANAGER Bin Zhou

SALES & DIGITAL CO-ORDINATOR Grissel Ritchie ADMINISTRATION ASSISTANT Kate Wilcox

HEAD OFFICE – SYDNEY Creative Head Media Pty Ltd Suite 202, 80-84 Chandos Street, St Leonards 2065 P.O. Box 189, St Leonards 1590 Tel: (02) 9438 2300 Fax: (02) 9438 5962 Email: enquiries@creativehead.com.au SUBSCRIPTIONS 1 yr $99; 2 yrs $174; 3 yrs $261 (incl. GST and surface mail)

Sheridan Randall Managing editor

THIS MONTH’S TOP STORY Health scares, an easing Aussie dollar and consumer sentiment for locally sourced ingredients is putting home grown produce back in the spotlight. Find out more on page 16.

4 Open House, May 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

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INDUSTRY NEWS

Hunter Valley Wine Festival moves to June The Hunter Valley Wine Festival will move from its previous October date to June 20, to become a major new addition to Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month. The Festival will be staged at Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley, with more exhibitors, more food stalls, more entertainment, and more fun, but without any increase in ticket prices. The pre-purchase $20 entry ticket provides five tasting vouchers that can be used to taste wines from 40 vineyards. There will also be beer and cider tastings at Lovedale Brewery, food outlets, and entertainment throughout the day. “The Festival will be an important addition to the Hunter Valley Food & Wine Month,” said Festival manager Jenny Farrell.

OzHarvest to open food waste cafe F

ood rescue organisation OzHarvest will transform food destined for landfill into gourmet, high quality restaurant meals for its latest innovative pop-up café project, harvested, set to open on May 12, in Sydney’s Pyrmont.

discolouration or slight imperfections? We wanted the public to experience this too, and see how good it can be.”

City West Housing, an affiliated partner organisation, donated the empty restaurant space to OzHarvest, under a three month lease.

“In a society where abundance is now seen as normal, we need to challenge perceptions and behaviour,” she said.

OzHarvest Chef for a Cause, Travis Harvey (pictured), who leads Cooking for a Cause, the organisation’s corporate engagement and volunteer program which prepares thousands of meals for those in need each year, will be heading up the rescued food kitchen and was the organiser behind the concept.

“We need people to think of the consequences of our wasteful habits and how it impacts on the environment and our planet. Each year we waste up to 10 billion dollars’ worth of good food in Australia.”

“The idea behind harvested is simple,” said Harvey. “It takes a challenge that OzHarvest and our food recipients have to face every day - what to do with surplus food that society has rejected because of its appearance,

Ronni Kahn, founder and CEO of OzHarvest, said she wanted to inspire people to get back to basics and challenge them to waste less.

On its first day of launch meals will be free to the public in exchange for a picture posted on social media using the hashtag #mealforameal, Virgin Mobile will donate 50 cents to OzHarvest for every hashtag, allowing one meal to be delivered to someone in need.

6 Open House, May 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

“Since re-establishing the Festival after a 30 year hiatus, it has been held in October, but on both occasions it coincided with a severe heat wave and we thought that with the Hunter’s very mild winter climate, it would be more comfortable and attractive for wine lovers to appreciate the Valley’s superb wines as part of Food & Wine Month. "It has been fantastic to have the support of the major producers – many of whom had been at the previous Hunter Valley Festivals back in the early 1980s – as well as many boutique wineries. The new-style Festival is a friendly, high-quality event which now boasts a very attractive venue that makes it ideal for all wine and food lovers, from the aficionado to those who just want an entertaining Saturday with family and friends."

NEWS BRIEFS

Budget offers mixed messages Tourism Accommodation Australia (TAA) has welcomed the Federal Budget's increase in funding for Tourism Australia, and praised the accelerated depreciation measures for small businesses. However, the industry body believes changes to Working Holiday Makers taxation arrangements and increases in visa charges will have serious negative effects for the accommodation sector. Tourism Australia’s 2015-16 budget has increased to $137.3 million compared with $129.75 million in 2014-15. This will include a small staffing increase and a continuation of the roll-out of the “There’s nothing like Australia” campaign across all major markets, along with new funding for the Restaurant Australia marketing campaign. “The continued increase in Tourism Australia’s promotion and marketing funding is imperative if we are to reap the benefits of the lower Australian dollar and grow demand for the new wave of Australian hotels that are coming on line across the country over the next five years,” said Carol Giuseppi (pictured), acting chief executive of TAA. “Australia is experiencing its largest hotel expansion in two decades, and with the end of the mining boom, it is imperative that

tourism and business events are targeted to create new demand.” Giuseppi also welcomed initiatives aimed at small business, with the reduction in taxation and immediate tax deduction benefits for items under $20,000 likely to benefit smaller hotels, particularly in regional and remote areas. However, regional and remote hoteliers would be particularly affected by the Government’s change to tax residency rules from July 1, 2016. Working holiday makers (WHM), generally made up of backpackers, would be disadvantaged from coming to, and staying in, Australia as a result of the decision to tax their earnings at 32.5 per cent from their first dollar of income, according to TAA. “Backpackers make up a large percentage of the workforce in hotels in resort, regional and remote areas, and the previous WHM arrangements were an important incentive for backpackers to come to Australia and stay a lengthy period of time,” said Giuseppi. “They not only contribute significantly to employment in the accommodation sector, they are also amongst the greatest advocates for Australian holidays back in their home markets. The backpacker of today is likely to return with their friends, families and credit cards in years to come. This is a regressive decision that will affect our industry at a time when the hotel industry is going to need access to larger pools of labour during its rapid expansionary phase.”

Aussie coffee chain heads to Hawaii Gloria Jean’s Coffees will open a new coffee house in Hawaii’s capital Honolulu this year as part of its plans to expand internationally after its recent acquisition by franchising powerhouse Retail Food Group (RFG). Master franchise partners, John and Chris Giovas and Louis and Karolina Gjorsevski, will help bring the new concept coffee house to life. Having operated several successful Gloria Jean’s coffee houses in Australia, the foursome say they are well placed to

introduce the innovative coffee house in Hawaii. They expect to hire around 30 team members in Honolulu and plan to open up to 20 more Gloria Jean’s coffee houses over the next 10 years. “We have been part of the Gloria Jean’s Coffees family for many years,” said Giovas. “We know the brand, we love the coffee, we are proud of the community and we are excited to bring Australian coffee culture to Hawaii.”

Finalists announced for Chef of the Year The finalists for the Unilever Food Solutions Chef of the Year competition have been announced at a function held at Melbourne Cricket Ground. The selected 32 chefs will meet for a live cook-off at the Foodservice Australia show in Melbourne, end of May. Registrations open for Sydney Good Food Month Early bird registrations are now open for Australia’s largest food festival, The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Month. Returning in October (1-31) Good Food Month will welcome nine new categories and events alongside festival favourites. Early bird registrations open on May 12, and close June 12, 2015. Gastronomic tourism heads to Adelaide Twenty of Australia’s gastronomy talent and instructors will descend on Adelaide May 31 to June 3 for the first Le Cordon Bleu Master of Gastronomic Tourism Residential. The three-day event will expose the students to Adelaide’s gastronomic tourism destinations. Training the next generation Four aspiring young chefs have taken part in an exclusive cooking session with award-winning chef Dan Hong (pictured), as part of Restaurant & Catering Australia’s (R&CA) Skills Pathways Project. (See more on page 22). Justin North wines and dines at Hotel St Moritz Boutique Queenstown hotel, Hotel St Moritz celebrated the finest local food, wine and art on May 8-10 with celebrity chef Justin North. Members of the Accor Hotels loyalty programme – Accor Plus – were treated to an art and wine discovery tour and a threecourse meal at the boutique lodge-style property.

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, May 2015 7

World class service key to tourism and hospitality growth To realise their full potential, Australia’s tourism, travel and hospitality industries have to attract the best people they can and give them the skills they need to offer truly world class service, according to the 2015 Tourism, Travel and Hospitality Environmental Scan released (April 30) by Service Skills Australia. The scan identifies the factors currently impacting on the workforce make up and skills needs of our tourism, travel, hospitality and events industries, and considers how well the national training system and industry itself are responding to them. “Consumers are now demanding new and unique experiences and top level service, at the same time they can check out the competition, compare prices and read reviews on their ever-handy devices,” said Service Skills Australia’s CEO, Yasmin King. Tourism has been hailed as one of Australia’s five super industries and is expected to grow by 20 per cent over the next four years. Restaurant, café and catering service turnover grew by more than 10 per cent in the year to August 2014, while demand for conference and event organisers is expected to increase by 18 per cent by November 2018. “These industries are already very successful, but ensuring training is turning out graduates with the skills they really need in the workplace will help them become real engines of our economy and continue to compete successfully in the international context,” King added. Factors such as the seasonal nature of the work and a highly casualised workforce can stand in the way of attracting and retaining the right people. To counter this, these industries need to develop and promote career paths. Employees also need to be equipped with transferrable skills to expand the labour pool

Perfect Italiano winners announced The winners of Perfect Italiano’s photographic competition have been announced, with $5000 up for grabs. Perfect Italiano gave Australia’s foodservice professionals an opportunity to showcase their creativity by photographing a special moment at work. The photo entries were uploaded to the Club Perfect website where they were judged for their artistic merit. “The entries showed creative flair, innovation and the commitment to excellence that exemplifies the dedicated professionals who work in the foodservice sector,” said Nick Dymond, trade marketing manager at Fonterra Foodservice, which produces Perfect Italiano cheese. Major prizes from the $6000 prize pool were awarded to the five top entries in order of merit as follows: First prize – Aidan Rawlins, apprentice at Black Coffee Lyrics in Surfers Paradise QLD,

Noodle Box launches a yum cha box

Areas where skills need to be developed include customer service, cultural awareness, languages and digital and technology expertise, including in social media. 8 Open House, May 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

won a Robot Coupe Vegetable Cutter for his image titled “Little Break”. Second prize – Braedon Griffiths, chef at Hops Scotch and Beans in Brisbane, won a Canon 70D camera with 18mm-35mm lens for his “Chef Life” photo. Third prize – Ivano Panazzolo, manager and pizzamaker at Sportivo Pizzeria in West Lakes SA, won a Canon G16 Digital Camera for his montage imagery showing various stages in the process of making dough and garlic bread. Fourth prize – Erin Martin, owner/operator chef at CeeCees Bistro in Penrith Bowling Club, NSW, won a Robot Coupe Stick Blender for her “I Like Your Cheese!!!!” snap. Fifth prize – Robbie Fraser, commis chef at Batmans Hill on Collins St Melbourne, won an iSi Thermal Whipper and Crème Whipper for his photo titled “My Burning Passion”.

Restaurant chain Noodle Box has created the Yum Cha Taster Box containing popular street-food, available from May 4. The box includes: vegetarian spring roll, pork and prawn dumplings, calamari, and Japanese chicken. “The Yum Cha Taster Box is a perfect lunchtime option,” said Renee Werner, marketing manager for Noodle Box. “Not only is this a meal that is quick to order, and easy to eat while you’re on the go, it’s also a perfect representation of our commitment to introducing Australians to the great flavours of South East Asian street food.” OH

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COVER STORY

Premium partnership Swiss ice cream maker Mövenpick has teamed up with gourmet food company RoyalCDS to bring its Super-Premium range of ice creams and sorbets to the foodservice sector.

he Swiss are famous for many things, most notably, their precision and their love for sweet things, especially chocolate. Mövenpick brought both of those elements together along with a revolutionary vision of culinary excellence when they developed their famous ice cream. Natural innovators, Mövenpick reimagined ice cream by bringing together the best ingredients that nature can provide, and their commitment to Swiss standards of perfection, to create an ever adapting range of super-premium ice cream. Made by chefs for chefs, Mövenpick’s super-premium ice cream is 100 per cent natural, does not contain artificial flavours or colours, and comes in a mouthwatering range including world-wide best seller Swiss Chocolate: with Cinnamon and Vanilla & Brownie being the latest additions to hit Australian shores.

For more information visit www.royalcds.com or call QLD 07 3893 9222 VIC & NSW 1300 130 796

“We’re incredibly proud of our Swiss heritage at Mövenpick, everything we do is built on the skill and imagination of the Maîtres Glaciers and their commitment to Swiss standards of perfection,” says Antje Rummel, national marketing and operations

10 Open House, May 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

manager at Mövenpick. In April, Mövenpick announced its partnership with RoyalCDS, a gourmet food company supplying the food industry with a focus on 5-star hotels, the leisure sector, events, clubs and cafes. RoyalCDS will be the exclusive supplier of the Mövenpick Professional range of ice creams and sorbets to the foodservice sector in Australia. RoyalCDS general manager Malcolm van Basten says Mövenpick’s range of ice creams and sorbets “really complement our gourmet offer”. Established 26 years ago, RoyalCDS are specialists in the premium foodservice sector; their excellent supply chain infrastructure, combined with outstanding customer service and a well-respected sales team, reflect the same attention to detail Mövenpick is known for. “We choose to partner with leading brands to ensure our customers have access to a comprehensive range of top quality products,” he adds. “The addition of Mövenpick’s Gastronomic range has taken our gourmet dessert offer from great to exceptional.” OH

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IN SEASON

Truffles N

ow established in many states, the quality of Australia’s truffles are seen on par with that of their European counterparts. Australia’s fresh truffle season of late May to early August means truffles are available all year. The expensive fungus is grown under ground and is formed through a close relationship between the roots of particular trees such as oaks and hazelnuts and fungus found in the root. “They’re an underground fungi, and you use a truffle dog to find them when they’re ripe in winter and dig them up,” says Fred Harden from the Australian Truffle Growers Association. With their high price, powerful aroma of

damp leaves and earth, truffles complement any dish but should be used sparingly. Like many exotic flavours, it is an acquired taste that is generally nutty but once added to a dish the taste of truffles are described as either sweet, sour, bitter, salty or umami. White truffles are served either raw or shaved over pasta, mushroom, risotto, eggs and salads. White or black thin truffle slices may be inserted into meats, under the skins of roasted fowl, in foie gras preparations, in pâtés, or stuffing. Truffles are best stored in a large jar in the refrigerator, each wrapped in a paper towel to prevent them getting wet as they lose their aroma once the moisture is gone.

May

Another tip is to store truffles with fresh eggs in a large jar; after a while the yolks will be infused with the truffle aroma. The first Australian truffles were planted in Tasmania in 1999. The trees were vaccinated with the truffle fungus in the hope of creating a local truffle industry, resulting in the development of a small truffle harvest in 2004. Truffle growing is now established in Tasmania, Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria, the Australian Capital Territory, Queensland and New South Wales. OH

June

• Apples

• Custard apples

• Parsnips

• Apples

• Leeks

• Pears

• Asian greens

• Fennel

• Pears

• Avocados

• Lemons

• Pomelo

• Avocados

• Ginger

• Persimmons

• Banana

• Mandarins

• Potatoes

• Bananas

• Imperial mandarins

• Pomegranates

• Beetroot

• Nashi

• Pumpkin

• Quinces

• Broccoli

• Olives

• Quince

• Rhubarb

• Brussels sprouts

• Onions

• Rhubarb

• Parsnips

• Cabbage

• Oranges: Navel

• Silverbeet

• Carrots

• Parsnips

• Spinach

• Cauliflower

• Passionfruit

• Sweet potato

• Sweet potatoes

• Celeriac

• Turnips

• Celery

• Broccoli • Brussels sprouts • Cabbages • Carrots • Cauliflower • Celery • Celeriac • Chestnuts

• Kiwifruit • Leeks • Lemons • Mushrooms • Nashi • Navel Oranges • Okra

• Custard apples • Fennel • Grapefruit • Jerusalem artichokes • Kiwifruit • Kohlrabi

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• Turnips

TOP 10

10 movies about food The power of food is transparent in these 10 films that take viewers on a culinary and emotional adventure, discovers Anastasia Prikhodko.

1 Chocolat Johnny Depp and chocolate. Marketing genius. The sensual yet whimsical tale is all about a certain sweet, cacao-based substance that shakes the rigid morality of the community.

2 Mostly Martha In a German restaurant, chef Martha Klein’s life is centered on cooking. All that changes when her sister dies in a car accident, leaving her 8 year old daughter,

Lina. The pressures of both her private and work life combine to create a situation that will fundamentally call her attitudes and life choices into question. Not a comedy, then.

3 Eat Drink Man Woman

5 Haute Cuisine

7 Delicatessan

True story of a renowned chef from Perigord, appointed as the French president François Mitterrand’s personal cook, which soon leads to her authentic cooking seducing him.

This drama is about two Jersey Shore restaurateurs trying to save their failing family business.

The scene where the two brothers are in the kitchen with one preparing the perfect omelet for the other is a classic. Food heals all wounds.

Julie an aspiring writer who loves to cook decides to blog about cooking and commits herself to cook the 534 recipes in Julia Child’s book in 365 days. Safe to say it’s a chick flick.

The story takes place in an apartment building with a delicatessen on the ground floor, selling human flesh. It’s French, so possible new food trend.

The Oscar contender is a story of a Taiwanese master chef whose only real means of communicating with his three daughters is via the Sunday dinner he cooks for them every week.

4 Big Night

A post-apocalyptic society where food is so rare it is used as currency.

9 Julie and Julia

10 Chef After losing his restaurant, chef Carl Casper starts up a food truck in an effort to reclaim his creative juices, while piecing back together his estranged family. Food truck culture and a killer cast equals win/win. OH

Like Water For

6 Chocolate

A realist drama from Mexican director Alfonso Arau, about the power of food and recipes, which cause every guest to sob uncontrollably at a wedding and summon ghosts. No surcharge for that though.

8 Sideways Follows the lives of Miles, a failed writer, and Jack, a minor actor, who embark on a road trip through California's wine country. An odd couple for wine fanatics.

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ORIGINS

The sandwich The simple creation of two bread slices and filling continues to rule supreme as the top global convenience food, writes Anastasia Prikhodko.

hen John Montagu, the fourth Earl of Sandwich, ordered beef between two slices of bread in 18th century Britain, he probably did not think his request would become one of the building blocks of British identity. The sandwich was eaten prior to 18th century, but it did not appear in writing and there was no name for it. The earliest recognizable form of a sandwich was called the “Hillel sandwich,” eaten during Jewish Passover. Hillel the Elder, a Jewish leader and rabbi who lived in Jerusalem suggested eating bitter herbs inside unleavened matzo bread. Hillel’s simple recommendation of sandwiching the two foods indicate that this was already popular in the Middle East. During the middle ages in Europe thick slabs of stale bread were used as plates until their meals were finished. The scraps of bread were then discarded to dogs or beggars. Sandwiches first appeared in American cookbooks in 1816. The fillings no longer just contained cold meat, but also cheese, fruit, shellfish, nuts and mushrooms. Sandwich consumption increased during the Civil War and began to earn new names for their many different variations like the triple-layered club sandwich and the corned beef Reuben. Over the centuries the sandwich transformed into one of the most 14 Open House, May 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

culturally diverse on the go meals with every region being able to sandwich their ingredients and flavours. In Cuba, restaurants serve ham and cheese on Cuban bread. In the Middle East, falafel or shawarma in a pita pocket, France goes for a Croque Monsieur (grilled ham and cheese topped with cheese) and New York serves up pastrami on rye or Reuben. Nowadays the traditional two slices of bread and meat just won’t cut it. This has inspired some imaginative sandwiches to be created such as Niçoise sandwich with potato, anchovy and caperberry salad; caviar with herb; Bosphorus fish; and Porcini and taleggio fried sandwiches. The worldwide popularity and celebration of sandwiches continues to rise. In the UK the British Sandwich Association (BSA) hold a yearly awards ceremony; British Sandwich Industry Awards – The Sammies. Australia is also a sandwich loving nation with our very own Australasian Sandwich Association and the Great Australian Sandwichship awards honouring the nation’s best sandwich makers. Despite the constant evolution of the food industry, the sandwich sector has nothing to worry about with 45 billion sandwiches eaten yearly in the United States and an estimated 11 billion consumed in the UK. With 26 sandwiches sold every second in Australian retail outlets, it is evident that the sandwich is still an Aussie favourite. OH

Q&A

Keeping it in the family Mimmo is the youngest member of the Lubrano family, with their business Sandhurst Fine Foods riding Australia’s love affair for all things Mediterranean, writes Sheridan Randall.

Q: How did the business start?

through the less important the price argument is.

A: It was basically a small start. We started specialising in olives. Back then it was all stuffed olives, there were no Kalamata olives on offer, nothing really exciting. So one of the first things we specialised in was table olives.

Q: How has technology changed the way you do business?

Q: What was the Australian appetite for Italian food 25 years ago? A: Every Italian food trend starts with bad pizza. From pizza it goes to pasta and then to salads and then through to anti-pasto and dessert. Italian goes through an evolution in every market. So when we started it went from mum and dad pizza, to pizza chains, and now it has gone back the other way to full on original traditional pizzas. We jumped on the Italian food craze as it has gone along and at the moment it is the quality phase. Q: What has been the biggest change? A: People now want a better quality product. What we are trying to do is upscale the quality of the products we sell. Foodservice operators have to understand that if they are playing a quality game they will have longevity. How long are you going to last by serving cheap coffee? Q: Does that mean prices have gone up? A: Every category has its cheap and nasties and the challenge is not to over spec product. We sell a Chinese tomato paste which is good value for money and then we have an Italian one which is double the money. At the end of the day tomato paste is an ingredient, a flavour enhancer, I don’t think we are going to get double the price. The less important that ingredient is and the less transformation it goes

A: Technology is interesting because it gives you more choices. It allows you to trace your product back and to connect with your customers through a better online presence. It’s been a massive change for us. Q: What’s the process in adding new items to your product range? A: We have around 600 products with 15-20 new products launched a year. We cull off around five. Occasionally you work outside your comfort zone. We try and jump on the trend before they go mainstream, such as quinoa. We launched canned beans and chickpeas around six years ago and they have been great for us. A city lunch bar can make money out of that, as chickpeas haven’t been bastardised by KFC, Subway or McDonald’s. It’s an untouched product. Q: You have ridden the trend for Italian, what other trends are on the horizon? A: Mexican was big with a lot of QSR chains. Once the QSR takes momentum that comes into the cafes. We get inspired by MasterChef and they speak to ingredients that people aren’t familiar with. Nutritionists are also influencing things. The trends come from all over the place. Q: Does it make any difference being a family business? A: A family business is the ultimate care factor as you have empathy. OH www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, May 2015 15

AUSTRALIAN MADE

1, 2, 3 Australian produce is renowned for its premium quality and safe standards. 1

Local heroes Health scares, an easing Aussie dollar and consumer sentiment for locally sourced ingredients is putting home grown produce back in the spotlight, writes Sheridan Randall.

rozen berries and hepatitis. Two things no consumer wants to hear uttered in the same sentence became front page news earlier this year when 18 people in Australia became infected with hepatitis A from frozen berries imported from China. The Federal Government sprang into action with Prime Minister Tony Abbott tasking Industry Minister Ian Macfarlane and Agriculture Minister Barnaby Joyce to prepare a submission for cabinet on country of origin labelling for food products. “People want to know more about where their food, where their products are coming from,” Abbott said. The complex business of

identifying where food comes from has been rattling around for years, with a whole host of inter-related parties affected by changes. Consumer groups have long complained that the "made in Australia" seen on labels in the supermarket are confusing, with the labelling not being very specific about whether the ingredients have been sourced in Australia or simply packaged here. Australian Made Campaign chief executive Ian Harrison says the health scare issue around imported frozen berries “highlights the need for clearer country-oforigin labelling, as it appears consumers may have been confused about

16 Open House, May 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

where they came from”. Industry body Ausveg is a keen supporter of changes to the current laws. “Recent public health scares involving imported produce have thrust food safety front and centre in the psyche of Australian consumers and galvanised their preference for supporting Australian producers, and purchasing local produce,” says Ausveg deputy CEO Andrew White. “Australians are lucky that their farmers produce world-beating food products, and it is time we allow them to take full advantage of this fact with labelling laws that let them identify where the food they

are buying and eating has been sourced from.” The Government has stalled any conclusive action until August at the earliest, but the issue is a pertinent one as it brings elements to the fore that are at the heart of those in foodservice. In a globalised world what counts more, quality or provenance and are the two interchangeable? Just because a product is sourced in Australia does it make it the best one to be using? If it is does the end consumer really care? And are they willing to pay more for it? Clouding the waters still further is that some products are sourced from and manufactured in Australia by overseas companies while some

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chefs cope with trying to figure out whether they should be including it in their sales pitch or menu.

The food industry has been vocal in campaigning against the cost of a new labelling scheme, saying it will hit local producers and local manufacturers where it hurts most, on their bottom line.

While we debate the pros and cons at home, the fact remains that the Aussie brand works on consumers on an international level. Meat & Livestock Australia (MLA) and the National Farmers’ Federation (NFF) recently announced that the organisations will work together over the next 12 months to expand the use of the “True Aussie” brand across a broader range of Australian agricultural

Kate Carnell from the Australian Chamber of Commerce and Industry says it is “likely to be really confusing for consumers". And if it is confusing for them, how will business owners and

Atherton farm hickory smoked pork Serves: 6

1 Atherton Farm pork neck or scotch butterfly 200ml Korean chilli paste 200ml The Hills Cider Company apple cider 200ml BBQ sauce Salt and pepper to taste 1 cup of hickory wood chips, soaked in Adelaide hills apple juice 2 Zarella pontiac potatoes, peeled and sliced into matchsticks 6 Days free range eggs, separated 4 tablespoons toasted rolled oats 4 tablespoons Almondco toasted slivered almonds Young celery leaf for garnish Preheat oven to 80oC. Rub the pork neck with chilli paste, BBQ sauce, and apple cider, then wrap in foil and place in an oven tray. Place in the oven and cook for 12 hours or overnight.

18 Open House, May 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

South Australia goes local Peak industry body for the South Australian food industry, Food SA’s successful campaign Eat Local is helping local restaurants and cafes showcase the state’s high quality produce by either including a dish that was made from local ingredients, or selling local produce in-store. More than 225 Eat Local SA venues located across every region of South Australia are involved, from restaurants, cafes, pubs, and cellar doors through to farm gate, retail, catering, accommodation and food tourism experiences, with a tiered system in place that promotes local produce on the menu.

1 South Australia’s Eat Local campaign. 2 Pigs from Atherton farm.

See more at www.eatlocalsa.com.au 2

products being sold overseas. Brent Finlay, president of the NFF, says that Australia has long been a key provider of premium, safe food to the world, with the campaign aimed at showing that “the world knows exactly when it’s seeing the genuine article.” “We want the world’s consumers to be sure that what they are getting is truly Australian – True Aussie,” Finlay says. “True Aussie” was developed by MLA in conjunction with

the cattle, sheepmeat and goat industry representative bodies – the Cattle Council of Australia, the Australian Lot Feeders’ Association, the Sheepmeat Council of Australia and the Goat Industry Council of Australia. Richard Norton, managing director of MLA, says “True Aussie" is already being used at major trade shows in key export markets – including China, Europe and the United States – to promote Australian agriculture’s “clean, green and natural image”.

At home, major QSR chains such as McDonald’s have long pushed their homegrown credentials in a bid to ensure consumer trust and quality. McDonald’s says that it is “committed” to supporting Australian producers and manufacturers, spending more than $795 million on Australian produce in 2014, including 26.1 million kilos of beef; 20.8 million kilos of chicken; 6.6

million kilos of cheese; 11.4 million kilos of produce; and 60.3 million kilos of potatoes. The US based company has been working with Ingham for over 25 years and Quality Bakers for 40 years. “Our first preference is always to source produce from within Australia whenever it is viable and appropriate to do so,” says Sabrina Spadaro, corporate communications manager at

Once pork is cooked, begin to pull it apart and place the pieces back in the oven tray. Meanwhile, strain the wood chips and add them to an oven proof heavy based pan. Heat until the wood chips begin to smoke.

Deep fry the potato strips until crispy and set aside. Place the pulled pork in a ring, sprinkle the oats and almonds around the outside and create a nest with the potato. Carefully separate an egg white from a yolk, and place the yolk on top of the pork, being careful not to break it. Garnish with celery leaf and serve. Recipe by Grant Schooling, The Gilbert Street Hotel.

Original

Place the tray of pulled pork back in the oven. Season to taste. Add the pan of smoking wood chips, shut the oven door and leave for a further four hours.

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Cockles and mussels with garlic toast ¼ cup diced brown onion 8 Barakel cockles, cleaned 8 Boston Bay blue mussels, cleaned

Splash of white wine 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon hot English mustard ¾ cup cream 1 Tip Top manufactures in Australia using local flour.

Chopped parsley Chopped tarragon 6 leaves bower spinach, julienned

McDonald's Australia. “McDonald’s is committed to supporting Australian producers and manufacturers, with over 90 per cent of our food and packaging needs manufactured in Australia.” Darren O’Brien, national account manager at Tip Top Foodservice, says there has definitely been a shift towards Aussie made products in the industry, citing recent research by from the FSAA Foresight Dining Out Data 2014 showing that “Australia made” and “locally produced” are the top ethical considerations when dining out. “We believe that Australian foodservice operators prefer to buy locally produced product for reasons beyond supporting local manufacturers,” he says. “Many foodservice operators are concerned about using products that meet Australian standards and meet the various ingredient legislations, as well as meeting the Australian food safety standards.” Tip Top Foodservice is part of foodservice giant George Weston Foods, with the Tip Top range manufactured in Australia using the majority of its ingredients from Mauri ANZ (also part of GWF), who manufacture flour locally from Australian grown wheat. “We think it is equally important to focus on where

a product is sourced as well as the quality of the product itself,” says O’Brien.

Splash lemon juice Splash fish sauce Cracked pepper

“Being Australian made means that the local food standards are met plus local manufacturers will have their offices and support people available locally, but as well as that, having an Australian Made stamp means that consumers are likely to trust the brand, it has more credibility.”

Garlic buttered sour dough toast, to serve

Whether this trust is something that operators can leverage on their menu depends often on the size of the outlet.

Serve with chargrilled garlic hot toasts.

Sauté the diced brown onion until cooked through and soft. Add the cockles and deglaze pan with a splash of white wine. Add the mussels and mustards to the pan and stir through, then add the cream and cover the pan. Cook for about two minutes or until all the shells have opened. Finish by adding all the herbs, freshly ground black pepper, and a splash each of lemon juice and fish sauce. Recipe courtesy Sails Restaurant – Robe.

“Patrons would expect that small local cafes and restaurants would source Australian products and in the main would not be aware products could be imported,” O’Brien adds. “Larger chains certainly take advantage of all claims to help promote themselves including using Australian made products which sits well with the Australian consumer market.” Locally owned Sandhurst Fine Foods source from all over the world, but Australia is becoming “a more important part of what we do” says Mimmo Lubrano, CEO of the family-owned business. “It has gone full circle because we started out doing all Australian products, such as sun dried tomatoes and olives and then they disappeared,” he says.

20 Open House, May 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

“But now they are back, and we have Australian semi-dried tomatoes, olives and eggplants. The Australian range is increasing at a rate of knots. We have a full range of vegetables in a tray with no oil, and they are all Queensland produce.” With the recent health scares associated with imported food, Lubrano believes “people want

Australian”. “I think that cafes are smart enough to say ‘we use locally sourced produce where possible’,” he says. “I’m sure you will find cafes using social media to say we are using fresh Australian berries in our smoothies instead of frozen ones. I think the Australian sentiment is there.” OH

APPRENTICES

2 1 The pastry team at Shangri-La Hotel Sydney. 2 Dan Hong passing on some tips at Mr Wong. 1

Return on investment Industry support for the next generation is vital to its future, with some of Sydney’s top chefs going out of their way to build confidence in the industry’s newcomers, writes Sheridan Randall.

very industry is only as good as the next generation stepping into the shoes of those who have gone before, and nowhere is that more apparent than in hospitality. With institutions still struggling with apprentice retention rates, the industry is looking at different ways to encourage and engage the next generation of hospitality leaders.

Banana, Mango, Peanut Butter and Caramel.

Pastry chef Anna Polyviou, from Shangri-La Hotel Sydney, is a passionate advocate of supporting the next crop of pastry talent, starting with her own team of young chefs. This year saw the return of a two-night dessert degustation planned and delivered by her apprentices. Taking place in March, the young team of seven apprenctices set out to wow their paying guests with a sevencourse degustation channelling molecular gastronomy with a very modernist menu.

“One thing I loved most was learning techniques which were completely new for me.

Zoe Chen, Felicity Goodchild, Philip Khoury, Jessica Timpano, Daniela Raponi, Giovana Falanga and Felicity Nhue delivered mouth-watering sweet treats such as Lychee Powdered Ice Cream, Coconut and Lime; Plum, Yuzu, Black and White Sesame Brain; Holy Goat Black Silk, Raspberry Bubbles, Sauvignon/Citrus Cloud and Nigella Bark; Hot vs Cold Watermelon and Mint; and

With many from the team involved with the inaugural event last year, it was chef de partie Raponi’s first experience. “I enjoyed every single thing, from the decoration to the actual planning of ideas and timing,” she says.

“I really think that working as a team got us the amazing outcome we've achieved.” Commi chef Timpano admits to feeling a few nerves being tasked with plating for the first time. “I found it very exciting and nervous at the same time,” she adds. “I felt a bit of pressure as chef Anna is famous for her plated desserts, but she said to me just keep it simple and clean. Following that and having the team help out as well really pushed me to learn from this experience.” Ultimately though it was about building confidence in the team’s abilities. “Doing molecular food for the first time was such a great experience not just for

22 Open House, May 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

me but for the whole team,” says Timpano. “Even behind the scenes having to organise everything from dates to plates built confidence in ourselves as well as a team.” Chef Dan Hong, the talent behind Ms. G’s and Mr Wong, also took time out recently to pass on some industry knowledge to four apprentices who won the Skills Passport competition. Part of Restaurant & Catering Australia’s Skills Pathways Project, the competition gave The Grand National Hotel apprentice Lyric Adorned, Rockwell Catering apprentice Madeleine Pointing, science student David Michalowsky and hospitality student Gigi Bechara the opportunity to participate in a cooking session with Hong at his Sydney restaurant Mr Wong. Hong says he hopes the Skills Pathways project will help increase the number of apprentices currently working in his Merivale kitchens, which currently have only two apprentices amongst its 40 employees. “The Skills Pathways program has all the ingredients for the perfect recipe,” Hong says. “I wish I had this sort of support, particularly the mentor assistance when I was completing my apprenticeship.” OH

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EVENT REPORT

1 Gaston Caltabiano. 2 Tango dancers at Zeta Bar, Hilton Hotel. 3 Argentinean degustation.

Argentinean passion on show Sydney saw 300 wine lovers raise their glasses to one of Argentina’s most iconic wines, writes Anastasia Prikhodko.

ow in its fifth year, Malbec World Day Sydney brought together Australian and Argentinean wine enthusiasts, diplomats and media with a celebration at Hilton’s Zeta Bar on April 29. “Malbec World Day celebrations are designed to bring Australians together to experience the conviviality that is the essence of Argentinean way of life,” says event organiser Daniela Penno from LatinPR. The spotlight was on all things Argentinean with guests being treated to tango dancers, Spanish music, cheese, meats and of course malbec, which is considered as the nation’s most distinctive wine. “First we have to explain to people what is Argentina, where we are and what we do. Today some people have picked that up so now they would say okay Argentina is tango, meat, soccer and malbec,” says Gaston Caltabiano, regional export manager at Argentinian winery Bodega Familia Zuccardi. Caltabiano describes the wine as fruity and velvety in the mouth, making it “so it’s easy to drink”. 24 Open House, May 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

“People really enjoy this wine,” he says. “That’s why it has become a boom.” Bodega Famllia Zuccardi’s malbec cames from four vineyards each with different soils and elevations within the Uco Valley region. Caltabiano says the parallels between the two countries are undeniable and that is perhaps why sales in Australia for Malbec are the highest in the Asia Pacific region. “You people like BBQS and we like BBQs,” he says. “You like to get together with friends, family and have social gatherings and same with us.” With the wine complimenting meat dishes, it is frequently drank at Argentinean BBQs and gatherings. The celebration is a global initiative by Wines of Argentina, with this year’s event also aiming to promote three short films selected by the Wines of Argentina to better acquaint Australians with Argentinean culture. OH

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HERBS AND SPICES

1 Beef skewer with Japanese 7 Spice. 2 Shawarma chicken wrap. 3 Gingersnap creme brulee. 4 Middle Eastern Labneh dip.

See recipes in the Open House iPad app.

A taste of adventure M

McCormick’s Flavour Forecast is out, with eight flavours on the front burners set to turn up the intensity, writes Ylla Watkins.

cCormick has revealed its Flavour Forecast 2015, highlighting eight flavour trends set to hit retail and foodservice outlets in the near future, at an exclusive event at Tetsuya’s restaurant in Sydney. The six-course degustation menu, designed by chef Tetsuya Wakuda, brought many of the predicted trends alive, with courses including “Sour & salt” (Toro of ocean trout with snow salt); “Smoked spices” (Braised deboned spatchcock with Dutch cream potato and avruga); and “Umami Veggies” (Grilled Wagyu beef with parsley root and carrot).

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26 Open House, May 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

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Now in its 15th year, the global report drives flavour innovation and exploration throughout the food industry. Reflecting a rapidly increasing demand for bolder, more intense flavour experiences, this year’s Forecast focused on adventurous global tastes on the rise, such as Japanese 7 Spice (Shichimi Togarashi), as well as an appreciation for the robust flavours developed in slowsimmered dishes from around the world. The report also showcased new ways to elevate

pantry essentials to starring roles, like smoking spices and herbs, or pairing sours with coarse salt. Many of the trends identified in previous Flavour Forecasts are now mainstream in domestic and commercial kitchens around Australia. “While our report highlights global flavour trends, we are certainly seeing many early trending flavours appear in Australia,” said McCormick Foods Australia culinary manager, Simone Fergie. “Take chipotle chilli, for instance. When we first identified this chilli as a flavour to watch in 2003, many people couldn’t even pronounce it! Today, it’s featured in mainstream recipes and products. Pomegranate, sea salt, coconut water and cocktail inspired flavours like bourbon and rum have seen similar success, taking over restaurant menus and retail store shelves. The flavour trends highlighted within our 15th annual Forecast promise to do the same.” The full list of Flavour Forecast 2015 trends can be found on www.mccormick.com.au.

8 flavour trends to watch Identified by a global team of McCormick chefs and flavour experts, these trends offer a taste of 2015 and beyond:

Sour + Salt Combining coarse salt with surprising sours like pickled ginger, sour cherry, dried mango and lemon zest results in a lively finishing flavour that lends brightness and texture to dishes.

Liquid revolution Fresh purees and juices blend with bold spices and herbs to intensify sauces, pasta, dressings and more – providing a fun, delicious way to enjoy an extra serving of fruits and veggies.

Global blends on the move Japanese 7 Spice (Shichimi Togarashi) offers a new kind of spicy heat, while Shawarma Spice Blend lends warm, spiced flavour to grilled meats and more.

Umami veggies For a fresh way to savour the tempting “fifth taste,” look no further than naturally umami-rich veggies like mushrooms, tomatoes, sweet potatoes and nori.

Cookies reimagined Classic spiced cookie flavours take new form in decadent, imaginative desserts that redefine “milk and cookies.”

Smoked spices Smoking spices and herbs deepens their flavour and aroma, adding richness to meals and drinks.

Middle Eastern mezze These distinctive dips and spreads, packed with zesty herbs and seasonings, offer an approachable and delicious

introduction to a vibrant global cuisine.

Flavour worth the wait Lift the lid to discover rich flavours from global recipes that meld aromatic spices and comforting ingredients into mouthwatering slow-cooked meals. OH

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, May 2015 27

HERITAGE

3 2

1 Ceviche of snapper with octopus from The Governors Table. 2 Grilled asparagus, parmesan curd, nettle, shisho dressing from The Governors Table. 3 Colonial goose, prepared by Sally Wise. 4 White chocolate cream, puffed black rice, mango and lime sorbet at The Governors Table.

What’s old is new Early settlers did it tough as they struggled with famine. But perseverance, learning from Indigenous ways and the introduction of European farming has all shaped our national culinary identity, discovers Anastasia Prikhodko.

“E

arly Australian settlers survived through food shortages and famines by living close to the land, working with seasonality and preserving by every possible means,” says food author Sally Wise. Meat, fat, emu, pickled vegetables, oranges and figs are only some of the popularly used ingredients in colonial cooking. As new ingredients were introduced by settlers the cuisine began to change and expand, reflecting the social and historical changes in society.

Wise says that two predominant ingredients during that time were meat and fat. “Lots of meat, it was said to be the faith, hope and charity of the Australian diet,” she says. “Also, a popular dish was ‘Fat Cake’ – a pastry like dough into which a generous amount of dripping was kneaded. It was then rolled to about half an inch thick and baked over a slow heat in a frying pan.” Favourite dishes included Slippery Bob

Beef-steak pudding Take two pounds of rump-steak, and cut into seasonable pieces; and cut into shreds two or three onions. Paste the pudding basin with good crust, not too rich nor too poor. Put the meat into the basin, with some pepper and salt, and a dozen oysters, with a thickening composed of mushroom ketchup, flour and water, and mustard. Simmer for an hour and a half, and serve in the basin; or turn it out if the gravy in the pudding can be retained. Recipe from The Colonial Cookbook – For the Many as well as for the Upper Ten Thousand by Edward Abbott published in 1864.

– a combination of kangaroo brains, flour, and water, which was then fried in emu fat, Jugged Kangaroo and Possum in a Pumpkin. "They would hollow out the pumpkin, dice up the possum flesh, mix it with the pumpkin flesh and bake it inside the hollowed pumpkin over hot coals," says Wise. Prior to European colonisation in the 17th century, Aboriginal Australians survived for thousands of years on a huntergatherer diet. The British settlers struggling to adjust to the indigenous diet developed agriculture to provide familiar European food of sheep, cattle, rabbit and flour to make bread. During the gold rush period in 1890s there was an influx of migrants from Europe and America who spurred the drinking of coffee and alcohol. Innovative foods of pavlova, lamingtons, Anzac biscuits and vegemite were not too far behind from being added to the culinary vocabulary. Nowadays Australians don’t have to go

28 Open House, May 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

See recipe in the Open House iPad app.

through the hardship of food gathering and hunting to enjoy colonial era food, as one restaurant in Sydney has managed to combine the old with the new. The Governors Table sits on the site of the First Government House in Sydney, with its menu drawing on influences from colonial times by combining contemporary taste with hints of the past. Referring to the Trade Wall of ingredients in the Museum of Sydney, head chef Marco Alder sources various seasonal ingredients for each month,

and works closely with the heritage site’s colonial gastronomer to reflect the produce and dining style of the days of Governor Arthur Phillip.

Australian heritage include the Nick O’Leary 2013 Riesling from the Canberra District, and Athletes of Wine “Vine Athletic” 2004 Pinot Noir from the Macedon Ranges.

“Much of the imported produce came with the first fleet, so the influence is mainly from England,” says Alder. “There were also some European influences from the convicts who had a more Mediterranean heritage.”

Some of Australia’s staple dishes that continued to be enjoyed are meat pies and the traditional roast.

Wood grilled t-bone romesco sauce; black fig tart with honey and lavender ice cream; grilled local asparagus, aged parmesan custard, nettles and shiso dressing are some dishes served at The Governors Table. Alison Wishart, a curator at the National Museum of Australia, suggests that the French love of wine also made it slowly into Australian diets. “It’s certainly where we get the slang word ‘plonk’ from – as the French call white wine ‘blanc’ and the Aussies heard this as ‘plonk’,” she says. Samantha Payne, sommelier at The Governors Table, says the wine list is focused on local, young producers who are bringing the past to the present by using old-world growing methods and organic philosophies. Wines served at the restaurant that reflect

New 15g single-serve size. Same great taste.

“It [roast] seems to be what people look back to with fondness from their childhoods,” says Wise. “Perhaps it’s the ambience that surrounds it, the sense of plenty, the aroma of a roast and root vegetables baking in the oven, that wonderful tasty gravy and crunchy spuds.” Australian cuisine is now influenced by a variety of intertwined gastronomies, cultures and flavours. The influx of immigrants from Eastern Europe, Asia and the Middle East brought exotic ingredients along with Chinese, Thai, Japanese, Lebanese and Greek cuisines. It appears as though Australian culinary has come full circle with the growing focus back on seasonal produce and preserving. “These days it may well be more a lifestyle choice, but a very wise one,” says Wise. “Our health and well-being will only benefit as a result.” OH

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www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, May 2015 29 15/10/14 1:13 PM

COMPETITIONS

1 The Australian team at Bocuse D’Or in Lyon. 2 Judging at Chef of the Year. 3 Nestlé Professional global CEO Martial Rolland. 4 Last year’s Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat finalists.

Industry support Culinary competitions for chefs are raising the bar for skill levels and flying the flag for Aussie chefs both locally and abroad, with industry support vital in growing them, writes Sheridan Randall.

“C

ompetitions are extremely important to the growth and professional development of any chef,” says Neil Abrahams, national president of the Australian Culinary Federation (ACF), food and beverage manager at Royal Canberra Golf Club and frequenter of culinary competitions as both competitor and judge. “Sometimes the practice of our skills can be limited in a workplace depending on the menu and what the expectations are of the business in relation to their cliental. So competitions

allow you to practice those skills that you wouldn’t normally do day in day out and produce food at the highest level. In turn it develops growth and personal development.”

a medal but just the sheer fact of being there, being involved and pushing yourself to your limit and then seeing where you can take that to the next level can only help you in your career.”

Having won the Chef of the Year title twice in a row, Abrahams has benefitted from the cash prizes and recognition, but is adamant that the competitions benefit all the entrants.

For Abrahams, industry support is vital in keeping the competitions relevant and potentially lucrative for the competitors.

“I think just being in it outweighs the benefits of winning,” he says. “It’s always nice to win and come away with

30 Open House, May 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

“Fonterra are without a doubt currently the biggest supporter of all culinary competitions across Australia,” he says. “They are not just involved in one major event throughout

the year, they are involved in multiple. This year alone Fonterra are involved through the ACF with WA Oceanafest in Perth, Fine Food’s Australian Culinary Challenge and Battle of the Pacific. They are also the major supporter of ACF’s Apprentice of the Year Competition, as well as being ACF’s principal sponsor. This is in addition to their own in-house Proud to be a Chef competition.” The Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat is also great supporter of Australia’s young culinary talent, with many

of the nation’s top chefs springboarding their careers off the back of the long running competition. Marking its 50th anniversary this year, Martial Rolland, CEO of Nestlé Professional, says the competition “is a great example of the support we have been giving to chefs”. “I wouldn’t consider being in the foodservice industry without supporting chefs,” he says. “There is another part that has to do more with the kind of involvement that we have with the chef industry, by giving support to the young chefs. This is something that is extremely important to us because they are a source of talent. “In this particular industry it is extremely important to have these long-term partnerships. For me the Nestlé Golden Chef’s hat is the perfect expression of what Nestlé Professional is all about which is commitment over the long term.” It’s not all one-way, with foodservice companies such as Nestlé Professional using competitions as a way of communicating with their customers. Rolland describes chefs as “a fantastic source of insights”. “For me chefs are very much artists, very passionate people who love what they do,” he says. “It is not an easy job to be

a chef. It is very important for us because clearly chefs are our main interlocutors. They really are endorsers because if they say the solution is the right one clearly we know we have the right product.” Nestlé Professional was also involved with Bocuse D’Or which again has been a long running partnership, with the Australian team, led by Shannon Kellam and supported by commis chef Tara Bain, a Nestlé Golden Chef’s hat winner in 2014, placing 12th. “Clearly it is very much a show window for the world,” says Rolland. “Again, it is another expression of our commitment to the industry. I was there in Lyon during the final and what is very exciting is to see the enthusiasm around the world of cooking and cuisine. It’s extremely fulfilling. “ The Chef of the Year competition returns this month to Foodservice Australia with a new name and a new major sponsor, with Unilever Food Solutions stepping in as the major sponsor, in what will hopefully be a fulfilling longterm relationship for both parties, according to Yezdi Daruwalla, managing director at Unilever Food Solutions Australasia. Anthony Lin, marketing manager Australasia at Unilever Food Solutions, says part of the reason

Watch the video in the Open House iPad app.

for the new partnership is a need to “understand the chef”.

who are really at the top of their game,” he says.

“These kinds of competitions can really help to build the profile for chefs within the industry and to a lesser extent externally and also derive some recognition for some of the people within the industry

“It’s really about us playing a role where we can show appreciation for these people at the beating heart of foodservice. It’s that understanding of chefs that helps drive it.” OH

Get in it to win it • The Unilever Food Solutions Chef of the Year – Foodservice Expo, Royal Exhibition Building, Melbourne, May 31 to June 2, 2015. • WA Oceanafest – Perth Convention & Exhibition Centre, July 5-7, 2015. • Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat – Fine Food, Sydney Show Ground, September 20-23, 2015. • Fonterra Proud to be a Chef – applications for the 2016 program will open in the second half of the year.

Mitchell Tucker from Jupiter’s Hotel on the Gold Coast was the overall winner of 2015 Fonterra Proud to be a Chef (pictured second left) with Peter Wright, Zac Nicholson and Joe Grbac.

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REGIONAL SNAPSHOT

3 1 Geelong’s waterfront bollards. 2 Eastern Beach, Geelong. 3 Ocean Road mussels. 1

Geelong, VIC The waterfront city boasts plenty of fresh seafood, wine and culture, writes Anastasia Prikhodko.

nly an hour drive from Melbourne and 20 minutes from Avalon Airport, Victoria’s second largest city is located on the shores of Port Phillip Bay. Geelong’s natural beauty of volcanic plains and beaches make this a popular destination for both wine enthusiasts and foodies. To experience the flavours of the region treat your tastebuds to the best of the Bellarine Peninsula on the Bellarine Taste Trail. Take a tour and stock up on fresh mussels, oysters, gourmet cheese selection, farm-fresh fruit and vegetables.

Wine drinkers are spoilt for choice with local vineyards known for their European style Chardonnay and Shiraz. In the 1800s Geelong was the largest grape growing region in Victoria and in recent times has been rediscovered for its rich soil and a climate that is between France’s Bordeaux and Burgundy.

its Food and Wine Bar.

Saint Regis is a family owned and operated winery located on the site of a mid-19th century winery at Waurn Ponds in southern Victoria. The winery specialises in Shiraz, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which complement the local produce featuring at

“It’s important to keep it as local as possible and as fresh as possible,” he says. “Don’t mess around with the ingredients too much, let them speak for themselves instead of trying to cover them up with different flavours.”

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Another vineyard worth exploring is Jack Rabbit Vineyard, situated on the Bellarine Peninsula. The vineyard’s restaurant under the supervision of executive chef David Hall focuses on fresh local produce.

VIEW FROM THE KITCHEN

DIARY DATES Port Douglas Carnivale May 22-31, 2015

Port Douglas comes alive with the 10 day festival celebrating a taste of paradise with over 30 events including Taste Port Douglas, Seafood Extravaganza, Feast Port Douglas, the Jansz Longest Lunch and much more. www.carnivale.com.au

Foodservice Australia May 31-June 2, 2015

David Hall, executive chef at Jack Rabbit Vineyards

Best thing about the region: Definitely the local seafood and being so close to the water. We also have local organic farmers and growers where we can source our ingredients from.

Food philosophy: Just treat the produce with respect. You don’t have to add too many ingredients to a particular dish for it to be nice, it just has to be cooked well and local produce always stands out.

Favourite local ingredient to work with: It would have to be either the edible wild flowers or mussels.

Food heroes: There are so many to get inspiration from but probably Michel Bras and Daniel Clifford, as well as local chefs like Dan Hunter.

Most underrated ingredient: Vegetables like celery and especially ones that are in season.

Career highlight: I really enjoy working where I am at the moment, we have the most amazing view and awesome employers. Even though I’ve been there for seven years I am still constantly learning from other people.

Held at Melbourne’s Royal Exhibition Building, Foodservice Australia promises to “refresh your thinking”, with new products, new equipment and new ideas all on show. New features include Gluten Free World and Bar World, as well as Unilever Foodservice Solutions Chef of the Year contest. www.foodserviceaustralia.com.au

Best advice you’ve been given: To keep calm and not get upset. From watching TV, we all know chefs get a bit angry, which doesn’t really get you anywhere. OH

Good food and wine show June 5-June 8, 2015

Most overrated ingredient: It would have to be pork belly. 2

1 Jack Rabbit Vineyard Restaurant. 2 Local produce features heavily on the plate.

Celebrate the best in food and wine Australia has to offer at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre. From sweet and savoury to beer and wine, the show has you covered. There is also a chance to pick up some culinary tricks from the professionals by watching the experts cook. www.goodfoodshow.com.au

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COOKING THE BOOKS

Citrus delight Maggie Beer brings a touch of citrus freshness to the end of a meal with this lemon tart from her latest recipe book Maggie Beer’s Winter Harvest.

Lemon tart Serves: 8

or freshness at the end of a meal, this tart, inspired by Sydney chef Tony Bilson’s recipe, never fails to delight. I bake it in a deep-sided quiche tin. This tart deserves a little practice to get the texture of the filling just right, as so many factors can influence the set. The first time you make it, start well in advance so that you can refrigerate the tart for an hour or so if the filling does not set. This is pretty delicious served with clotted cream. Sour-cream pastry 200g chilled unsalted butter, chopped into small pieces 250g plain flour 125ml sour cream Filling 150g castor sugar 9 egg yolks (from large, fresh free-range eggs) 80ml lemon juice Grated rind of 1 lemon 600ml cream Icing sugar (optional), to serve Put the butter and flour into the bowl of a food processor, then pulse until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add the sour cream and pulse again until the dough just forms a ball. Carefully wrap the dough in plastic film and leave to rest in the refrigerator for 15–20 minutes. Roll out the dough until it is 5mm thick, then use it to line a 20cm tart tin with a removable base. Chill the pastry case for 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Line the chilled pastry case with foil and pastry weights and blind bake for 15 minutes. Remove

the foil and weights and bake for another 5 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 180°C. Meanwhile, beat the sugar, egg yolks, lemon juice and rind until smooth, then fold in the cream. Fill the warm pastry case with the lemon mixture, taking care not to overfill it. Bake until the filling is set around the edges but still wobbly in the middle (this will take anywhere from 25-45 minutes, depending on your oven). Remove the tart from the oven and set aside to cool to room temperature to allow the filling to set completely – it should be the

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consistency of a very ripe brie, yet firm enough to cut into portions. Refrigerate for an hour or so if necessary to help set the filling. Serve dusted with icing sugar.

This is an extract from Maggie Beer’s Winter Harvest Recipes by Maggie Beer (Lantern, $29.99).

What’s on shelf this month? Lucy’s Bakes

The New Nordic

The Zumbo Files

by Lucy Cufflin Hardie Grant Books, $49.95

by Simon Bajada Hardie Grant Books, $49.95

by Adriano Zumbo Murdoch Books, $49.99

Lucy Cufflin, the British queen of kitchen shortcuts, shares her many secrets on how to make mouthwatering, show-stopping cakes and bakes, including two-minute blueberry muffins; lavender, pumpkin seed and honey flapjacks; and 10 variations on classic crunchy biscuits.

Chef, food stylist and photographer Simon Bajada celebrates the constantly evolving Scandinavian cuisine by using traditional ingredients and preparing them in contemporary ways. Split into themes of sea, land and forest along with a basics chapter that demystifies Scandinavian cooking techniques such as pickling.

The third recipe book from acclaimed patissier Adriano Zumbo, The Zumbo Files contains 50 new recipes including his latest creations – the chouxmaca and zonut. Zumbo’s savoury repertoire is also on show with pies, quiches and sausage rolls, as well as his hybrid creation the hamburger pie. OH

Get it while it’s hot! Open House is now available as an iPad app, offering even more ways to enjoy industry news, views and feature stories on the key issues and trends affecting the hospitality industry. This exciting free app is packed with bonus extras including recipes, behind-the-scenes videos and interactive features. Updated monthly, the Open House iPad app is available to download free at the iTunes app store or www.openhousemagazine.net.

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PRODUCTS

The master of rums

Multi-tasker

The Bundaberg Distilling Company has released its Master Distillers’ Collection Blenders Edition 2015. The Blenders Edition 2015 is a complex yet sweet rum, finished in port and sherry barrels, delivering a long and exceptionally smooth finish. The delicious blend is layered with hints of raisins, vanilla and spice and is best enjoyed neat or on the rocks.

Kombu Spaghetti seaweed (laminaria saccharina japonica) is a classic Japanese product from Hokkaido, the best area for producing high quality seaweed in Japan. Fantastic to use in many ways after refreshing in hot or cool water. Use for wraps, stocks, sautees, soups, salads, pan fry or pickled.

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www.goodgrubhub.com

www.bundabergfestival.com.au

SmartCup pays its own way

Aussie first for spreads

The frank green SmartCup is set to revolutionise your daily grind with its embedded payment technology. Embedded with a microchip, each reusable SmartCup provides the user with the ability to go cash free; tapping the lid of the cup to a sensor to process their payment instantly and securely at their local café. The SmartCup features a double-walled thermo plastic outer layer, is stain and odour resistant, BPA free, non-toxic and dishwasher safe.

The Buderim Ginger Group’s Mac Farms has launched Macabella, a macadamia nut infused chocolate spread made with only the highest quality ingredients. The first of its kind in Australia, Macabella’s creamy Belgian recipe delivers a luxurious cocoa blend that, when paired with the crunch of the finest roasted macadamias, creates a premium taste affair.

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www.frankgreen.com.au

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www.macabella.com

Return of the dread

A new squeeze

Little Creatures has launched its first-ever seasonal release, Return of the Dread, a domestic extra stout now available on tap and in pack. With six speciality roasted malts coupled with their classic pale malt and a good dose of Fuggles hops thrown into the mix, Return of the Dread is a dark, black, formidable yet smooth stout, balanced with a pronounced bitterness.

Heinz Foodservice has launched the new SqueezMe! single serve sauce range which has double the amount of sauce offered by other sachets on the market. Designed specifically for the foodservice market, the unique package design is easy to use and control and ensures less mess and more sauce from every squeeze. The SqueezMe! sauce range includes Tomato Ketchup, Barbecue Sauce and Tartare Sauce.

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www.littlecreatures.com.au

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www.heinzfoodservice.com.au

Rustic take on a classic

Gluten free treat

A rustic take on a true classic, the Rustic Mini Beef Wellington is hand crafted – starting with premium Australian beef, slow cooked in red wine and fresh herbs and then hand rolled with mushroom duxelle into the perfect buttery puff parcel. The perfect bite for any event.

Byron Bay Cookies has increased its range of gluten free flavour profiles, with the addition of Gluten Free White Choc Macadamia Cookie Bar, making this the ultimate indulgent treat on the go. Their award-winning gluten free cookies are just as deliciously decadent as their standard product, without the gluten, meaning they can be enjoyed by everyone, including those avoiding gluten for health or diet reasons.

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www.rusticbylm.com.au

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www.cookie.com.au

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PROFILE

Sweet memories The secret behind the decadent desserts of one of Australia’s most experienced patissiers, Jean Michel Raynaud, is simplicity, writes Anastasia Prikhodko.

“B

aking has always reminded me of something good,” says Sydneybased patissier Jean Michel Raynaud. “You don’t give cake to someone you don’t like and you don’t eat cake when you are sad. “When I was a kid there was always cake when you celebrated Christmas and birthdays. Cake is always associated with something special and I think growing up and even now, when I bake a cake it just brings about memories that normal food doesn’t. I think it’s an emotional connection with old memories.” Growing up in the south of France, Raynaud’s baking career began in his mother’s kitchen where she would frequently find him playing with dough and whisking together imaginary ingredients in a bowl. At the age of 13, Raynaud asked his mother if instead of school he could visit a chef’s kitchen. “Once I walked into the kitchen for the first time, there was no way I could do anything else,” he says. Two years later, he enrolled in a traditional patisserie school in Marseilles where he was mentored by Robert Schicci, “one of the best pastry chefs at the time”, before working at three Michelin starred French restaurant Le Petit Nice. By his early 20s he was married, working as head chef and had an increasing thirst for adventure. After hearing about an opportunity in Australia, Raynaud decided to venture across the world to join the patisserie scene in Sydney. For 15 years he specialised in wedding cakes as head chef of Sweet Art and Planet Cake. Fast forward a few years and Raynaud is now head patissier of Sydney’s La Renaissance Patisserie.

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Quatre Quarts is his favourite childhood dessert. The simple pound cake contains flour, sugar, butter and eggs with the taste taking Raynaud back to eating cake in his backyard while watching his sister play. “It’s a simple pound cake, but even now just the smell of it makes me happy,” he says. Despite being in the industry for over 30 years, he continues to use original and simple Mediterranean flavours inspired by his home town including butter, olive oil, oranges and floral scents. His favourite dessert to bake is a tart. “They are simple and you can pretty much create anything you want,” he says. “When I travel I try to use local ingredients to personalise them, then it’s relevant to the place.” The baking and pastry scene is constantly evolving. However, one significant aspect to French baking is the strictness of tradition. “French gastronomy is not very progressive because we are strict in respecting the tradition but the good thing is that it’s a lot less complicated compared to other cuisines,” he says. Having just released his first book, The French Baker, Raynaud has one tip for aspiring bakers and that is to not take on the same approach to baking as they do with traditional cooking. “Baking is a lot more technical and it is very important to learn the basics first,” he says. “After that, the world is your oyster.” OH See the recipe in the Open House iPad app.

AUSTRALIAN CULINARY FEDERATION NEWS

Stand up and be counted O

ften non-members ask “what is in it for me” when talking about becoming a member of the Australian Culinary Federation (ACF), and for many years I have had the same response; “What you put in you get out”. I know this from personal experience having volunteered for the association for over 15 years. I have given up thousands upon thousands of family hours organising events, competitions and workshop to expose chefs and apprentices to new skills and new opportunities they wouldn’t otherwise get. And in return I have been exposed to some of the best things the industry has to offer, I have learnt many skills and have worked with some amazing chefs. More so than ever our industry is struggling to attract and retain new talent in the kitchen, with no obvious solution to this problem on the horizon. This makes it more important than ever that we strengthen our

membership base to develop our association further. The ongoing issues of inadequate training, low remuneration, limited work life balance, and mental and physical pressures can be tackled, with the ACF National Executive making it a priority to be more involved and represent our industry. It is important that we commemorate the great work that has been achieved in the culinary field and recognise that the industry has come a long way in both regional and metropolitan areas, as well as on a national and international scale. The ACF will continue being a proactive body in the industry and whilst doing so support the needs of our members and future members, as it is our duty to protect our industry and the values that we stand by. The industry has changed and we need to change with it. The foodservice industry shouldn't suffer from a reduction in training

PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE

Neil Abrahams Australian Culinary Federation (ACF)

packages and delivery hours of our trade certificate; we need to stand up for the present and future leaders of the industry. OH

ON THE MOVE Merivale has welcomed chef Eric Koh (pictured) back to its ranks after a brief stint at the Michelin starred dumpling house, Tim Ho Wan. Koh will head up the kitchen at Enmore’s Queen Victoria Hotel alongside chefs Patrick Friesen of Papi Chulo and Christopher Hogarth.

Stone Restaurant and Bar at Mantra South Bank Brisbane has appointed Carlen Uphill (pictured) as head chef and Brendon Smith as restaurant manager. Uphill was most recently head chef for Peasant in The Barracks.

Gavin Robertson is the new executive chef at the Adelaide Convention Centre (ACC). Former executive chef at the Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley, he brings more than 20 years of international experience working for the Intercontinental Hotel Group.

Darren Clements is the new executive chef at Mercure Gold Coast Resort. He brings 20 years of industry experience, most recently at Madinat Jumeirah Arabian Resort in Dubai and the W Doha Hotel in Qatar.

Eddie Fong is the new signature chef at Cicada Lodge in the Northern Territory. Fong says he is set to think outside the box in his new role.

Matt McCool is the new head chef at W Hotels in Bali. Previous head chef at Shangri-La Hotel Sydney, McCool was also 2014’s Chef of the Year.

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