Crema Magazine Spring 2012 by Libby Brooke

CREMA t r a v e l

c o f f e e

w i n e

Spring 2012

The Café Lifestyle Magazine

Faces of Coffee : part II The Origins of Coffee Cafe Cities : Hanoi

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Con ents

Contents Spring ‘12 Editor Libby Brooke Art Director Paul Wallace Designer Jannah Poole Contributors Christine Cottrell Marisa DiLisio Ken Gargett Paul Golding Nga Hoang Boyd Kildey Emily Oak Rob Stewart Photography Ashley Felderhof Paul Golding Distribution Gordon & Gotch Printing Newstyle Printing

features cafe cities – Hanoi

Nga Hoang takes a little time-out from the mayhem, 08 to show us the history and culture of café-life in Hanoi.

faces of coffee: part II

In the second of our two part ‘portraits from the coffee-lands’, Paul Golding shares with us more of his favourite shots of the people he’s met on his travels.

i want We showcase some of the coolest gifts and accessories for the coffee-connoisseur… go on, you know you want it! Christine Cottrell shares with us the first in a fascinating two part series on the history of coffee.

regulars crema kitchen Cafe-inspired recipes for you to cook at home.

Crema[TM] Magazine PO Box 402 Unley BC Unley, SA 5061 info@cremamagazine.com.au

Ken raises a glass or two to some of Australia’s finest sparkling wines.

ken gargett on wine 28

coffee profile

Crema[TM] Magazine is published by Café-communications Pty Ltd and is copyright.

This issue, Rob is inspired by a punk-rock band to rediscover Peruvian coffee.

We welcome contributions, but accept no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photography or artwork.

crema drive

Cover Pic: Paul Golding

history - the origins of coffee

Advertising Libby Brooke Tel: (08) 8172 1236

ABN: 24 901 078 002 www.cremamagazine.com.au ISSN: 1447-4859

Boyd Kildey takes the new Jeep Wrangler Sport out for a spin, and a soda-pop.

industry comment Emily Oak, our ‘industry expert’ poses the question; ‘who decides what the customer wants?’ when it comes to their coffee experience.

Edit ori al W

ell, they do say that Spring is the time for new beginnings – and so, with that, we welcome Jannah Poole, our new graphic designer, to the team at Crema. We also welcome new contributors, Christine Cottrell and Nga Hoang; Christine, as she shares with us the first in a fascinating two part series on the history of coffee and Nga, as he takes a little time-out from the mayhem, to show us the history and culture of café-life in Hanoi.

Of course, we’re also very excited to bring you the stunning second part to Faces of Coffee, by Paul Golding. Once again, through Paul’s evocative images and words, we appreciate a little more, the lives of the farmers and their communities who work so hard to produce the coffee we enjoy. With Christmas just around the corner; whether it’s something to add to your wish-list or a gift idea for someone else,

Editorial

we showcase some of the coolest gifts and accessories for the coffee-connoisseur .... go on, you know you Want it! And finally, what would sitting down with the latest issue of Crema be, without all our regular contributors, who continually entertain and inform us. So, as I always say, find a relaxing spot in the Spring sunshine, settle in with a great coffee and enjoy the read!

Libby Brooke

Cafe search & ratings site bestcafes.com.au Crema Magazine’s dedicated online café search and review site: the first and most authoritative in Australia www.bestcafes.com.au

Now downloadable as a web page for your mobile

Bestcafes is a dedicated and comprehensive national listing of cafes throughout Australia’s capital cities, as well as regional cafes throughout NSW, VIC and other states. Cafes are rated 1-5 for coffee, food and ambience and we also welcome your reviews, or if your favourite café is not listed, go ahead and submit it to our listing. After all, this café search and review site is generated by you, you! Check out: autumn ‘10 forcrema 4 www.bestcafes.com.au.

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Hanoi

Hanoi cafes – a journey into the past Rarely a day goes by without Hanoians slurping down a hearty bowl of pho (the Vietnamese breakfast staple) and cleansing the spicy palate with a rousing black coffee. Thousands of canteen-like streetside cafes – small, open-fronted houses with pavements hijacked to make way for low plastic chairs propped against yellow plaster walls – are dotted around the city, serving all day and well into the night. The crowds hunker down on knee-high stools wedged between tables. Gazing down, there are the shiny black shoes of office workers puffing on cheap Vinataba cigarettes, the rubber sandals of grandpas scanning morning newspapers and the dazzling heels of young girls fussing with iPhones. Seats are zealously guarded, to be snatched as soon as they are vacated. Many end up perching on motorbike seats. The street hums with raucous chatter, the squeaky sound of electric fans hung from trees, the birds chirping in wooden cages, the patriotic music babbling from loudspeakers, and the honking horns of motorbikes.

8 crema spring ‘12

NGA HOANG

Despite a troubled past, Hanoi takes everything in its stride. Through the tight grip of colonial rule and the catastrophic decades of war, there is a legacy of cafe culture that remains alive and well. Nga Hoang discovers what drives this culture.

Cafe Cities : Hanoi

Sitting out front facing the streets, Hanoi emerges as an hilarious mess. A hurricane of motorbikes and cars flow through the city, as relentlessly as water pours out of a kitchen sink. Lost-looking tourists stop and stare, xe om (hired scooter) drivers, dapper in their dark suits, bellow into their mobile phones, shoeshine boys and lottery sellers shuffle between the tables. A thick haze of cigarette smoke and coffee steam somehow blends miraculously into the smokey fumes billowing from passing motorbikes. Conversation veers from technology and football transfer contracts to petrol prices and retirement. It seems that thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s much to be talked about over a 60-cent coffee. It is amazing that, considering the manic mayhem, people can still grab a coveted seat on a shady pavement and while away the hours over coffee, as if time is on their side.

Photographs: NAM LONG NGUYEN

Cafe Cities : Hanoi

The French legacy lives on The French brought coffee to the masses in the late 18th century. But in a tea-drinking country, the inky liquid that tastes like dark chocolate syrup was considered a luxury that only the urban petit bourgeois, French officers and intellectual urbanities could afford. “A cup of tea previously cost 2 coins while a cup of coffee was fifteen times as much, equivalent to half a loaf of bread stuffed with pâté,” says Nghiem Tien, Café Tho owner. Since the French departed, many cafes in Hanoi today have remained loyal to the original French taste and the old-school, drip-style filter technique. The coffee has an unmistakably buttery flavour, as coffee beans are roasted with butter oil and, you guessed it, chicken fat. It gives the coffee beans a shiny coat and creamy flavour. While Italian coffee is brewed under high pressure, Vietnamese coffee is slowly trickled through a metal filter, one drop at a time. This partly explains why Vietnamese coffee is darker, thicker and stronger. In order to make coffee more accessible to Hanoians, café sua (coffee with milk) was born. In a place where dairy products are not readily available, the French and Vietnamese began to replace fresh milk with sweetened condensed milk. What could be better than a ca phe sua da (iced coffee with milk) to fight against the humid heat of Hanoi? 10 crema spring ‘12

spring â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;12 crema 11

Cafe Cities : Hanoi

12 crema spring â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;12

Long live café society A quick table-hop through Hanoi’s quaint

Tu:“I’ve hit up this café every afternoon

in the afternoon must taste the same”

cafes stitches together a vivid picture of

since my student years and it’s hardly

she chuckles.

the thriving café culture that Hanoians

changed. Coffee here is a cut above

Venturing out to the south of the city,

hold dear. The first place to satisfy my

the rest. It’s more to my taste, thick

you will reach the coffee street of Trieu

craving for a caffeine rush is Café Nang.

and smokey”.

Viet Vuong which is lined with nearly 200

Walking down Hang Bac Street, my

Just a 20-minute walk away is Café 61

roadside cafes. While every other shop

eyes are dazzled by its sparkling silver

Bat Su, a longstanding yet under-rated

is certainly feeling the heat, Café Tho

jewellery shops. Further down the street,

face on the city’s café scene. For many

manages to keep a cool head. Housed in

the aroma of roasting (or burning)

Hanoians, a new day starts with queuing

a crumbling French colonial building, the

coffee beans permeates, even amidst the

for a steamy bowl of pho at the legendary

café breathes retro grandeur. Gazing out

baskets of durians strapped to the back

shop at 49 Bat Dan Street and follows

of its rustic green shuttered windows,

of a fruit seller’s bicycle and the pungent

with a feisty black brew at Café 61.

I can see old men reading freebie

fermented shrimp paste wafting from

While reliving the good old days of Hanoi

newspapers, young men squatting on

the bun dau mam tom (noodle with fried

through the faded photos that adorn the

the trunk of an age-old banyan tree

tofu) stalls nearby. Following my nose, I

walls, my ca phe da (iced black coffee)

and the owner slipping in and out the

sashay into a café flanked by two rows

arrives in cracked glassware. The yellow

door, sharing a few sips of coffee with

of dark, tall wooden stools and tables

foam topping the coffee resembles a

his patrons. Café Tho hit its stride in late

jammed against the wood-clad walls. The

bubble bath, while the crushed ice cubes

1985, trading under the name of one

air is thick with cigarette smoke and the

afloat on top, look just like sea waves

of the five brothers in the family. Today

heady scent of coffee. Squeezing past a

lapping at rocks.

all five of them take shifts. Coffee here

creaky staircase leads you to a shoebox-

Café 61 opened its doors in 1999 when

reflects customer tastes – bitter and

sized kitchen cluttered with stained drip

Ms Vu Thi Toan retired from her maths

slightly sour. The beans are sourced from

filters. A scramble upstairs takes you

teaching job of 18 years. She had her

Nha Trang, a coastal town on the south

to a room with a sun-dappled terrace

fingers stained with coffee the moment

coast of Vietnam, with a special blend of

overlooking a busy intersection. The café

she put down her chalk. The lace that

Arabica & Robusta. Above the whir of a

has been around for over 60 years. The

binds her and her customers together is

wobbly ceiling fan and the constant hum

husband-and-wife team took the helm

her commitment to delivering a consistent

of conversation, Tien, one of the owners,

when the husband’s father passed away.

cup of coffee regardless of the time of

concedes that coffee will only taste good

The coffee is as strong as the testimonial

day. “I tell you what, this is a club for

when it hasn’t been heavily weighed

from long-time customer Nguyen Dinh

coffee snobs. Coffee in the morning and

against profit. spring ‘12 crema 13

With this thought still on my mind, I walk to Café Thai, a family institution that has tried – and succeeded – to resist the lure of modernisation. Mr Nguyen Van Tinh, the third-generation owner, recounts the tale of his family business over a velvety black coffee. Discouraged by a failed relationship with his soon-to-be wife, his grandfather left his home in Hung Yen Province and packed off to Hanoi in the late 1920’s. He started making a living as a mobile street vendor in 1926. Every time he saved up a bit of money, he shifted to other jobs including noodle soup seller and tailor. In the early 1940’s, he decided to settle and open a café. 72 years on, it has survived unscathed and has played host to a variety of scriptwriters, singers and poets. Upon entering the room, the aroma of freshly ground coffee drifts slowly through the air and lures me to the back of the room. In this damp and dimly lit space, a woman sits hunched over a rattling coffee grinder while another cooks some food. The aroma of ground coffee competes with the smell of stir-fried water spinach with garlic. But still, the coffee wins. Just before darkness descends, I dash off to Café Duy Tri at the north end of the city. On my arrival, the traffic grinds to a halt but the coffee grinder from this small shop whizzes into action. At the helm is Pham Duy Tri, at age 71, he’s a man with immeasurable knowledge of coffee. His mother opened the first café on Mai Hac De Street in 1936. It was his family’s bread and butter, after his father’s earnings from his martial arts school were not sufficient to make it through rough times. The café was forced to close when his family was evacuated to Viet Bac in Thanh Hoa province. After a while, they opened a café there. Once the French pulled out of Vietnam in 1954, his family made their way back to the city and re-opened the original café. After retirement, Pham Duy Tri eventually stepped into his mother’s shoes to take over the café. With ambition to sate everyone’s taste, he whipped up a house specialty - coffee with frozen yoghurt. The sweet tangy flavour of yoghurt, blended with a slight hint of bitterness from the coffee, gives me a real punch. Although Hanoi has changed beyond recognition, these cafes have remained steadfast. With everything driving forward, Hanoians need to slam on the brakes and pull over at a secure place which immediately makes them feel like they’re ‘crashing at a friend’s house’ – the kind of place where they can linger over their caffeine fix, suspend time and take that moment out of their busy routine. To Hanoians, coffee is not to be rushed. As the sprightly 71 year-old owner of Café Duy Tri, points out, “Vietnam is a coffee-growing country, so obviously our coffee drinking style is different from that of Italians or any other Westerners. It’s an experience of its own.”

Café Nang 6 Hang Bac Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam Tel: +84 4 3824 0459 Small and rustic, this coffee den maintains a palpable link to its past. The coffee is strong enough to keep you wired for days to come.

14 crema spring ‘12

Café 61 61 Bat Su Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam Tel: +84 4 3923 0657 Café 61 is a shining example of how a no-frills café can attract a hard-core band of followers over the course of a decade. Pull up a plastic chair and kick back with a mildly flavoured coffee.

Café Tho 117 Trieu Viet Vuong Street, Hai Ba Trung District, Hanoi, Vietnam Tel: +84 4 6292 9597 The dusty green shuttered windows have survived unscathed and so has the coffee. Over the years, the flavour has remained unchanged, sour and bitter.

Cafe Cities : Hanoi

Top local cafes in Hanoi Café Thai 27 Trieu Viet Vuong Street, Hai Ba Trung District, Hanoi, Vietnam Tel: +84 4 3822 6922 With a secret recipe honed over three generations, the flavour of the coffee here brews memories that are carried by many generations of customers. The coffee is as dark as the wooden miniature stools in the cafe.

Café Duy Tri 43 Yen Phu Street, Tay Ho District, Hanoi, Vietnam Tel: +84 4 3829 1386 Its hole-in-the-wall presence might be easy to pass but its coffee is difficult to forget. Slumping into a chair made out of an upturned beer crate and savouring a cup of coffee with yoghurt – you’ll understand why.

Café Lam 60 Nguyen Huu Huan Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam Tel: +84 4 3824 5940 It was once frequented by cashstrapped artists who used to trade in their paintings for cups of coffee. Café Lam is a vestige of old Hanoi that stands juxtaposed against the capital’s race towards modernity.

spring ‘12 crema 15

Crema Kitchen : Amaretti Biscotti

Amaretti Biscotti Light and crunchy with all the flavours of Spring

I n g re d i e n t s 150g blanched almond meal 150g caster sugar 2-3 egg whites 1 teaspoon honey 1/2 teaspoon almond essence 100g pure icing sugar

Marisa Di Lisio has been teaching European cooking and giving cafe style food classes at Melbourneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CAE for over 13 years. She has recently opened her flagship cafe Bella Cosi, located at 71 Beach Street, Port Melbourne [www.bellacosi.net.au].

Method Preheat oven to 180 degrees C. In a large bowl combine the almond meal, caster sugar, almond essence and egg whites. Mix until a soft paste forms. Line a baking tray with baking paper. Using your hands, roll small walnut-sized mounds of mixture onto your baking tray. Dust with icing sugar and bake in the oven for about 25 minutes or until honey-coloured. Allow to cool then enjoy with a good coffee!

16 crema spring â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;12

Faces of Coffee II WORDS & PICTURES: PAUL GOLDING

“Portraits from the coffee lands”

Faces of Coffee

“Glorying in the name of Saber, this young kid in Djimmah, Ethiopia, kept us on our toes, with his energy and constant mischief. Actually he was a bit of a brat, but his home life was tougher than any of us could imagine, so he got a pass on that.”

We’re very pleased to bring you part II of Paul’s beautiful pictorial, ‘Faces of Coffee’ – an exhibition of portraits from the coffee lands. As Paul travels to coffee growing regions all over the world, this is the continuation of his personal tribute to the people who have shaped his experiences into lifelong memories. Through his evocative writing and photography, we again have the privilege of sharing a moment in the lives of the people who work so hard to produce the coffee we enjoy.

spring ‘12 crema 19

Faces of Coffee

“Working on a housing project in the coffee community of Djimmah, I worked closely with the local Ethiopian carpenters and stonemasons. Hard men at labour, they were nonetheless very kind and giving of their time to the project. ” 20 crema spring ‘12

“Damagetch, one of the women who assisted the stonemasons during our building project in Djimmah. I liked her immensely for her solid good humour through hours

“At a washing station in the Sidamo area of the Ethiopian Highlands I caught this photo of a young guy who works at the mill during the coffee season. It’s one of my favourite shots from Ethiopia.“

spring ‘12 crema 21

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Joseph is the Agriculture Manager on Fazenda La Lagua in Minas Gerais, Brazil. What he does not know about cultivating and growing coffee is probably just not worth knowing.â&#x20AC;?

“In the afternoons following our work, I would unwind by photographing people from the village of Firistaly. This little guy had definitely been in the wars, his black eye still fading from whatever caused the new scars on his face. Kids in Ethiopia get hurt a fair bit; growing up around open fires, jerry rigged electrical wiring, rugged terrain and unruly traffic. We are fabulously lucky to live in such a safe environment in Australia.”

spring ‘12 crema 23

“I became great friends with Kadija during my time working in Ethiopia. Her natural African beauty was matched by an amazingly sweet temperament and lively humour. Her ability to work through rain, hail or shine carrying loads too heavy for most of the men earned her great respect among the team.”

ide a monastery in Lalibela, famous for it’s miraculous ranean churches hewn from the solid rock during the 16th ry, I happened upon this old man with a child, likely his hope by the time the boy looks like his father, Ethiopia ave become the prosperous country it deserves to be.”

24 crema spring ‘12

Faces of Coffee

“This wizened lady was sitting on the edge of the village market in Sapan, north Toraja on the island of Sulawesi. In the companionship of an old friend, together they were making jokes and watching the busy crowd in the market square.” spring ‘12 crema

i want Strike a Pose Introducing the new Cobra tamper from Compact Designs – like its animal counterpart, the ergonomically designed Cobra is perfectly adapted to its environment. The beautifully designed cobra-like head fits firmly in the palm, with the neck running between the index and middle fingers, for even distribution of pressure and precision tamping. If that’s not enough enticement and you’re looking for more reasons to buy, Patrick O’Malley, authorised trainer for the SCAE has described the Cobra as “... a comfortable and user friendly design. The ergonomic curve of the shaft creates a straight up and down force, for a perfect tamp”. Made from 304 stainless steel, the Cobra offers a stylish alternative to the conventional tamper, making it the gift of choice for the barista who likes to stand out from the crowd. RRP $74.95. For more information, contact Compact Designs on tel: 03 63919339 or visit www.compact-designs.com.au

On Demand When it comes to making coffee, freshness matters. Grinding ‘on-demand’ optimises the outcome toward a great coffee, and is always a better alternative to using pre-ground beans. The Espresso Company Best grinder, with its powerful motor and tempered steel burr grinding wheels, ensures the consistent grinding results essential for getting the best results from the higher quality home espresso machines. If the aroma of freshly ground beans and the rich flavour of a perfectly crafted coffee is what you desire, then you need to look deeper; it’s not just about purchasing that sexy looking espresso machine, you need a grinder which will stand by its side. Available in either chrome or silver finish, you’ll be pleased to have this classically designed unit gracing your kitchen bench-top. RRP from $770. To find out more, contact Espresso Company Australia on tel: 1300 326 326 or visit www.espressocompany.com.au

26 crema spring ‘12

Gift ideas for the coffee connoisseur

Coffee Vault Until now, there has not been a coffee storage canister that eliminates each of the four causes of flavour loss in whole bean or ground coffee – CO2, moisture, light and air. The Friis Coffee Vault keeps your coffee fresh by locking in flavour while blocking out light, air and moisture. Once sealed, the built-in freshness valve vents away CO2 gas. Stored in a cool, dry place, your coffee stays rich and full of flavour. It is recommended that the freshness valve in the Coffee Vault canister be replaced every 2-3 months and you’ll receive a one-year supply of freshness valves, free with every purchase. The perfect gift for the home coffee-purist. RRP $39.95. For stockists, contact Villa Mondo on tel: 1300 555 150 or email: sales@villamondo.com. For more information, visit the Friss Coffee Australia website, www.friiscoffee.com.au

New kid on the (thermo) block Sunbeam has created the ultimate at-home coffee machine for the budding home barista. The new EM7000 Café Series espresso machine offers unique features that have taken inspiration from commercial machines, including a design sloping group handle with tamping pad for ergonomic use, a commercial size brass collar and an ergonomic fascia, that houses large push button controls and twin gauges – packaged perfectly into a sleek and industrial design. One of the most unique features is the patent-pending milk temperature sensing steam wand, which gives you the perfect milk and, with Sunbeam’s trademark twin pump and twin thermoblock, you can texture milk and brew espresso at the same time for perfect café-quality coffee at home. What more could you want for Christmas! RRP $899. For more information, contact Sunbeam Australia on tel: 1300 881 861 or visit www.sunbeam.com.au

Get smart, get Cheeki Cheeki is a leading Australian brand that was launched with the aim of supplying a healthy, fun and environmentally responsible range of products for today’s world. Did you know that 2.7 million disposable coffee cups are thrown out every day in Australia? With a Cheeki Coffee Mug, you will never need a disposable cup again! Smart, trendy and environmentally friendly – this unique mug has a non-spill, pop down drinking lid and, with its double-walled insulation, will keep your coffee hot for up to 5 hours. All Cheeki products are made from 304 Stainless Steel with BPA-free lids. The perfect gift for those who care about how they take their coffee on-the-go. RRP $19.95. For stockists contact Cheeki on tel: (02) 9939 1900 or email: sales@cheeki.net.au For more information, visit www.cheeki.net.au

spring ‘12

crema

fizz aussie fizz T

here is a lovely story about Madame Bollinger. Actually there are many – the famous quote about when to drink champagne, which was delivered as a rebuke to a silly question by a cadet journalist; how she would ride her bicycle throughout the vineyards; how she entertained Nazi Generals while protecting Allied airmen and escapees in the cellars below, her bluffs saving their lives. This one pertains to flagship champagne. Some in the family organisation were concerned that other Houses were gaining a marketing advantage as the popularity of flagship champagnes exploded – Moet et Chandon had Dom Perignon; Taittinger had Comtes de Champagne; Louis Roederer had Cristal and so on. Bolly had nothing. Employees pleaded with her to release a flagship. She stared them down and explained it was impossible. She had always promised her customers that her wines were the very finest quality she could make. How could she possibly offer them a new wine, claiming it to be better? It could have finished there but Madame Bollinger had an idea.

28 crema spring ‘12

She came up with the ‘RD’ concept – recently disgorged (‘RD’ is, I believe, even trademarked by the House). Basically, it simply means that the wine spends a longer period of time on its yeast lees, before disgorgement, than it might do normally. This should result in a more complex wine and, in particular, it increases the autolytic character of the wine. As horrible as that sounds, what it means in practice is that it gives the wine more of that lovely warm bread character. Why not just make the sparkler in the normal way and then lock it away in the cellar for that extra time, you might justifiably ask. Quite simply, the two age in different ways. If you compare two bottles of the same sparkling wine, the only difference being in time on lees, they will be quite markedly different. The preference becomes a personal one – it is fair to argue that one style is not better than the other, just different. Try it yourself and see which you prefer. Or enjoy both.

ken gargett on wine

Croser

Late

Disgorged

2000

– Honeysuckle, a hint of apricot jam and hazelnuts. Very fine bead. Mature and complex. From the Piccadilly Valley in the Adelaide Hills. Has seriously impressive length and maintains intensity throughout. 94.

Stefano Lubiana 2004 – Another

Bolly also came up with their ‘VVF’ (‘Vieilles Vignes Françaises’), a tiny production fizz, which is incredibly expensive. It is based on a couple of very small vineyards that were not affected by phylloxera. So they actually ended up with two flagships! The latest trend for quality sparkling wine in Australia is for wines of late disgorgement. Of course, it is no sudden afterthought, as the lead time for these wines is often a decade or more. Domaine Chandon’s superlative ‘Prestige Cuvee’ 1996 spent an amazing 15 years on lees. Some producers make this style as their ‘flagship’; others, like Freycinet, do this as their only wine. Many of these wines are coming from fruit sourced in Tasmania, which is in line with

the amazing sparklers we’ve seen from this island of late. The Yarra Valley is also a strong contributor. Great fizz also emerges from Macedon but they tend to be smaller production and much harder to find. These wines are not your discount specials. They are priced comparably with top non-vintage champagnes, and in the case of the Arras ‘EJ Carr’ 2000, considerably more. These are special occasion wines and deserving of your attention – not simply because they are Australian, but because they are fabulous sparkling wines. Here are some thoughts on some of the best. KGB

Tassie classic, this sparkler spent 6 years on lees (Steve Lubiana has others with longer time on lees but they are extremely tiny production and sadly, very rarely seen). A stunning wine by any standards, with an ideal combination of refined austerity and richness of flavour. Finely structured with great intensity. 95.

Clover Hill ‘Cuvee Prestige Blanc des Blancs’ 2001 – Another joy from Tasmania. Hints of grapefruit and lemon pith in this complex yet vibrant fizz. Also a chalky minerality. Intriguing wine. 93.

Freycinet ‘Radenti’ 2001 – I’ve long believed that the standard of wines across the board, produced by Claudio Radenti at Freycinet in Tasmania, make it one of Australia’s top five wineries. Their sparkling has had 8 years on lees and is truly compelling. Complexity, finesse, depth and flavour and great length. What is not to love? 97. Jansz LD 2004 – Figs, strawberries, stonefruit and raspberries. Almonds and honey. Offers a lovely layered texture, quite velvety, with underlying supporting acidity. Seriously attractive. Another Tassie delight. 93.

Yarrabank LD 2004 – A change of pace – from the Yarra Valley – but just as brilliant. Quince, spices, florals and hints of nuts. Fine acidity. Complete and complex. Has weight on the palate and yet seemingly dances across it. 96. Domaine Chandon ‘Prestige Cuvee’ 1996 – An extraordinary 15 years on lees for this Yarra classic. Hazelnuts and stonefruit and look hard for the tiniest hint of blue cheese adding complexity. Cushiony texture. Great complexity. 95.

Coffee profile

Coffee Profile : Peru

Rob Stewart

nspiration can often come from the least likely of places and this was certainly the case when I was looking for a coffee which was a little different. Recently I found myself watching a documentary on the history of punk rock and a little known Peruvian band Los Saicos, who had the 1965 hit song ‘Demolición’. They’ve been credited for being the first real punk rock band, 10 years before the Ramones and the Sex Pistols. Suddenly I began thinking about Peru; that vanguard punk rock band had given me the inspiration I needed to rediscover Peruvian coffee.

notes, dull acidity and over fermented beans

latest wet processed coffees that Peru is

from commercial grade farms.

currently offering.

Peru’s distinct geographical landscape offers

The art of cupping is a simple, universal

some of the highest growing altitudes at

procedure that helps growers, buyers, roasters

around 2200 metres above sea level and unique

and judges evaluate coffee efficiently and

microclimates which have the potential to

effectively. It begins with analysing the dry

produce exceptional flavour profiles. In the

grind fragrance; the Peru was sweet with

north of the country the Cajamarca region is

touches of almonds and cocoa. The next step

where more than a third of all the country’s

is adding hot water and letting the coffee

coffee is grown. In the south, coffee can be

steep for a few minutes, focusing on the wet

found growing in the regions of Apurimac and

aroma, I found more notes of almond with a

Peru shares its borders with two of the world’s

Cusco. Co-operatives are the most common

hint candy sugar. When the cup has cooled

format for farmers where the average size of

a little, letting the flavours develop and

leading coffee producing countries, Brazil and

a farm is just 4 hectares. These co-ops can

come alive, a sip revealed a soft acidity with

Colombia, so it’s of no surprise that Peru’s

range from 100 to over a 1,000 small farms,

fruited flavours of pear and honey. The body

coffee industry is one of its most important

so what you end up with is a truly regional

was quite pronounced with a pleasant milk

agricultural sectors. Peru is the 5th largest

coffee. Efforts are being made to build more

chocolate aftertaste. What I’ve found is a

coffee producing country in the world and

mills and to focus a greater emphasis on micro

coffee that is balanced and desirable.

produces the largest amount of organic

lots from specific farms.

coffee, as well as being the largest exporter of asparagus and organic bananas!

Co-operatives usually carry the Fairtrade certification and have been set up to offset

The Coffee

Unfortunately, their efforts in producing

industries such as mining. The Asociación

organic coffee has resulted in a cheap and poor

Provincial Cafetaleros Solidarios San Ignacio

quality product. This, in turn, has affected the

(APROCASSI) is one such co-op which was

overall reputation of Peruvian coffee, much to

founded in 2000 in the state of Cajamarca,

the detriment of farms that focus on quality

located in the San Ignacio and Jaen regions,

and not quantity. What this means for roasters

close to Peru’s border with Ecuador. The

is that a lot of cupping needs to be done in

Co-op produces a wet processed, SHG

order to find that ‘diamond in the rough’. Peru

grade, organic arabica coffee, derived from a

is quite transparent in its traceability, thanks

collection of its 436 member farms.

mostly to efforts of Fair Trade and Rainforest

This coffee is a mixture of the Typica and

Acidity: Mild

Alliance, but they are still way behind in their

Bourbon varietals and I had settled on this

Aftertaste: Smooth

quality controls so it’s common to find grassy

coffee by sampling it against some of the

Body: Creamy

Brought to you by Ducale Coffee

books: books: books:

Location: San Ignacio & Jaen, Cajamarca Varietal: Typica & Bourbon Process: Wet Process Altitude: 1200 – 1800 metres Grade: SHG – EP

Cup Profile Fragrance/Aroma: Almond & Cocoa Flavour: Pear, Honey & Milk Chocolate

History of Coffee : Part 1

32 crema spring â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;12

Christine Cottrell

The origins of coffee Coffee has its historical home in NE Africa and the Arabian peninsular where it grows wild. Legends abound about who discovered it; the most popular being that of an Abyssinian goatherd, whose flock pranced around more playfully than usual after they ate red berries from a particular tree. Another is of a hungry, exiled sheik who chewed the berries and found them too bitter, cooked them over a fire and found them too hard, so boiled them to discover a lovely fragrant brew. One historian claims that the ‘forbidden fruit’ in the Garden of Eden may have been, in fact, coffee berries. Another believes Hippocrates, the father of medicine, was aware of coffee and administered it to his patients.

I suppose. Only some time later it was consumed as a beverage – by religious devotees to keep them alert during long hours of prayer and dervishes who believed its power could enhance their mystical dance. There are three types of beverage preparation. The first involves roasting the beans in a little pan over an open fire, crushing them using a mortar and pestle and finally, boiling them slowly with water and sugar in a long handled pot – often half buried in sand. Served in small cups, this is the basis of Turkish style coffee, little changed from how we know it today. The second produces a much weaker brew, made by slowly simmering the ground beans in a tall pot

Because of its curious power over the human body, coffee was quick to attract the attention of ambassadors and travellers in Arab lands – for hundreds of years, long before its arrival in Western countries. It was of particular interest to scientists, botanists and physicians.

with a lid and a long spout. This method has it origins in Bedouin

A German physician, Leonhart Rauwolf was one of the first to describe the preparation and drinking of coffee in his logbook of 1581, Travels in the Orient. A little later, Prospero Alpin, a botanist and physician from Italy is believed to have been the first to describe and illustrate a coffee plant in his book, The Plants of Egypt. French writer, Antoine Galland makes reference to coffee in the famous 12-volume epic, The Thousand and One Nights, which was based on Arab texts he translated. So Sinbad the Sailor, Aladdin and Ali Baba might have been among the very earliest coffee enthusiasts!

is staging a comeback – popularised perhaps by the fact that 2011

The first coffee consumption was by wandering tribesmen who rolled the berries into balls of fat to be used as sustenance – especially if they needed to be kept awake on a long journey,

They were also places to play games such as chess and trictrac

communities and is still served this way in Arab countries today. Using the third method, the dried fruit of the coffee berry is boiled up to make a tea-like concoction. It is intriguing that somewhere along the course of history, this method has been mostly lost. But it World Barista Champion, Alejandro Mendez from El Salvador, used such a tea in his signature beverage. Known as cascara, it is now starting to appear in cutting-edge cafes as ‘something new’. Kiva Han was the first coffee house as such; opened in Constantinople (now Istanbul) some time in the 1470s, with others following throughout the great Arab cities of the time, including Mecca, Damascus, Baghdad and Cairo. Early coffee houses were more than places of lively caffeine-fuelled conversation. (an early form of backgammon), listen to storytellers and poets or be entertained by dancers and musicians. spring ‘12 crema 33

How coffee was sold varied somewhat. It seems that the earliest sellers had no fixed place and simply went about the streets with cups of coffee on trays selling to local businesses. Others set up on a mat or a rough bench wherever there was a passing crowd. Eventually coffee was sold in established locations and these varied from rough and rowdy – to luxurious and leisurely. Some were elaborately decorated with carpets and cushions to lean on, low ornate tables, marble fountains, and lots of little lamps. Known as ‘Schools of the Wise’, like-minded scholars went to listen and share ideas. Because coffee was always to blame for the unruly behaviour often incited by opinionated conversation, there were several attempts to ban it. In 1511, Kahir Beg, a corrupt governor of Mecca, lost his life after attempting to ban coffee. Fearing it might fuel opposition to his rule, he coerced local physicians, lawyers and coffee drinkers to testify that coffee was harmful to health. He declared coffee to be illegal and incinerated great quantities of beans. The whole plot backfired as, upon hearing of all this, the Sultan declared coffee to be sacred and ordered the governor’s death. The coffee houses of Mecca were later closed in 1524 because of their disorderliness, with coffee drinking only permitted in homes. They were eventually allowed to reopen under licence. In 1532, coffee was also banned in Cairo. Started by religious fanatics who were concerned about the intoxicating effect of coffee, they divided the city into ‘for’ and ‘against’ factions and ransacked many of the coffee houses. Religious fanatics in Constantinople also fired up opposition in 1570. This time it was about closure of coffee houses for religious reasons, classing coffee in the same category as wine and therefore forbidden by the Koran. One punishment was a dunking in the Bosphorus Sea in a leather bag. Impossible to enforce, coffee drinking remained popular. 34 crema spring ‘12

The lovely Turkish habit of ‘keyif’, the leisurely art of ‘savouring the passage of time’ has its origins around this time – along with the Turkish practice of telling one’s fortune in a coffee cup. Early Arabic and Turkish coffee houses

reveal a small coffee preparation area in

were the domain of men but women could

the centre of almost every room – and

consume coffee at home. How it came

you can just imagine the womenfolk lolling

about is anyone’s guess, but at some

around on soft cushions, passing the time

stage it was made lawful that a husband

of day and entertaining guests.

must supply his wife with coffee, and to

The lovely Turkish habit of ‘keyif’, the

fail in doing so was grounds for divorce.

leisurely art of ‘savouring the passage of

If and how it was enforced, is also open

time’ has its origins around this time –

to suggestion, but certainly any visit to

along with the Turkish practice of telling

a palace in the Middle East today will

one’s fortune in a coffee cup.

History of Coffee : Part 1

spring â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;12 crema 35

History of Coffee : Part 1 Earlier in the year when in Vienna for the World of Coffee, I was fortunate to stumble upon a café where they were offering such coffee cup readings. The resident psychic, Susanna, explained the whole process as she ground my beans in her tall brass grinder and boiled them three times in her little pot with a little sugar, careful not to spill any as the frothy brew bubbled to the top. After I had drunk my coffee, I was instructed to place the saucer over the cup and quickly tip the two up the other way. We had to wait about 10 minutes for the sediment to dry in the cup – into my special pattern that was to determine what I can expect to have happen in the near future. True or not, it was an entertaining experience and as the Turkish saying goes, ‘You don’t have to believe what is said, but it’s best not to ignore it either.’ Naturally, Western traders were keen to cultivate coffee themselves. Traders of

the Dutch East India Company, with their strong interest in acquiring exotic goods were among the first, with a contingent visiting Yemen in 1614 to investigate the possibility of cultivation and trade in coffee. Well aware that a monopoly over the sale of coffee beans would be to their advantage, the Arabs cleverly attempted to ensure that any coffee beans leaving their shores were boiled or roasted and therefore not able to be propagated. They had been successful – until 1616 when a Dutch merchant, Pieter Van der Broeck managed to smuggle some coffee plants from Mocha in Yemen. Back in Holland they were propagated in hothouses in the Amsterdam Botanical Gardens, and eventually taken to Ceylon for commercial cultivation. Another story, fascinating to say the least, is told about how the Arab monopoly over coffee cultivation ended. Baba Budan, a 17th century sufi on return to India following a pilgrimage to Mecca, is

said to have strapped seven fertile seeds to his belly and smuggled them out on his way home. He went on to plant them near Mysore where cultivation in southern India quickly spread. A shrine immortalising the brave Baba Budan marks the spot in India today. It was through the great trading ports of Europe that coffee eventually made its way to the West, arriving in the first decades of the 17th century. Not long after the first coffee houses in the West also started to appear. But that is another story (or two) in the fascinating history of coffee.

Christine Cottrell (author of the Perfect Espresso series, including the Barista Bible which will soon be published in an international 2nd edition) www.perfectespresso.com.au

36 crema spring ‘12

The

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Visit: espressocompany.com.au/how-to.htm View the “How to” short video clips presented by Scottie Callaghan (Australian & Internationally acclaimed champion Barista) to help you set up and refine your new machine at home.

barista’s honour In front of an audience of coffee

‘nailed’ the performance it was the

classic saying; “The more you learn,

enthusiasts,

and

biggest feeling of joy and satisfaction,

the less you know”. This saying

peers, Nathan Trebbin presented

knowing that the training had

applies perfectly to coffee. Every time

his signature drink to a panel

paid off,” Nathan recalls.

I undertake further training my eyes

of competition judges. Winning

While

the points and tastebuds of the

confidence in his barista skills,

keeps happening.”

judges with the perfect balance

it’s the passion and curiosity for coffee

Nathan will move on to compete in

of sweetness, in a matter of hours,

that he credits to driving him every

the Gloria Jean’s Coffees International

Nathan was awarded the title of

day as a barista.

Barista Championship, representing

His journey began in 2009 with

Australia, in New Delhi, India later

a move to Townsville, where his

this year. As the winner of the

The Gloria Jean’s Coffees 2012

first coffee there was at Gloria

championship, Nathan also received

Australian

Barista

Jean’s

a trip to Hawaii, Kona to enjoy the

showcases

their

local

media

2012 Gloria Jean’s Coffees Australian Barista Champion. Championship most

talented

Nathan

Coffees

had

quiet

Castletown.

The latte he received was served

and creative baristas from around

with a perfectly poured rosetta.

the

“I was blown away by the passion

country.

The

competition

is regarded by its baristas as the

displayed by the staff and Jim, the

perfect arena to compete with

Franchise Partner, when making my

the best in the country, as well

coffee. This made me think; “wow,

maybe there’s a lot more to it than

showcase

their

skills

whilst

under pressure.

I realise”. So really, that intrigued

While Nathan appeared composed

me. I applied for a job to learn more

on stage, his signature drink was the

about it, a passion grew, and I haven’t

product of weeks of intense training

stopped learning since – and the rest

and hard work.

is history.”

“On the day of competition it was

To this day, Nathan understands that

a combination of pressure, thrill and

he is constantly learning about the

relief that the training was all over.

coffee industry and coffee’s complex

When I stepped off stage feeling I had

characteristics. “Quite simply the

38 crema spring ‘12

are opened, and this just continually

Kona coffee festival.

Barista Champion

Favourite Bean from the Gloria Jean’s Coffees Whole Bean Range: Nicaragua & Papua New Guinea Organic Favourite Gloria Jean’s Coffees Cold Drink: Voltage with an extra shot Favourite Gloria Jean’s Coffees Hot Drink: Small, Double Ristretto Cappuccino

Photography: Michael Anderson, Paramount Studios

Crema : Drive

Jeep Wrangler Sport Do you remember the sun filled summer days down at the local but secluded waterfall? You, your well-built mates and a bevy of oddly attractive, sun kissed young ladies; frolicking and enjoying a bottle or two of soda-pop? Nothing coming back to you? If your youth wasn’t, or isn’t, filled with these kind of memories, then you clearly didn’t own a Jeep Wrangler. Also, you will have missed out on the gift of ‘adventure’ that is personally bestowed upon you by the CEO of Jeep; which reportedly can only be matched by daily trips to Mountain Design via Anaconda. by Boyd Kildey

According to the ever-green nature of this motoring icon, it appears that whilst everything I have said thus far sounds entirely ludicrous, it still convinces plenty of new and repeat buyers to take home the legend, and the dream. I suggest it must be the advertising that’s doing a good job, as first impressions of the Wrangler as a ‘car’, notwithstanding the dream, leave a lot to be desired. With a week ahead of me and finally a chance to really get to know ‘the legend’ that is the Jeep Wrangler, I was, in the appropriate vernacular, ‘pumped’ to take delivery of the little truck. The 2012 Wrangler has had some minor cosmetic upgrades and some nice fit and finish touches around the place, to help distinguish it from the 1944, 1963, 1988, 2001, 2011 etc models. Suffice to say, the Jeep Wrangler has Porsche 911 levels of consistency in design language and, like the 911, the Jeep has plenty of peddlers of the old cliché “if it ain’t broke, don’t touch it”.

40 crema spring ‘12

The Jeep Wrangler is beautiful, in the way that cranes above a building-site are entrancing, drag-lines carrying hundreds of tonnes of earth are inspiring, and Tonka-Trucks capture young children’s imagination. As a piece of raw industrial design, pulled from a basic ‘fit for purpose’ armed-services background, the Wrangler has all the elements it needs and nothing much extra. Sure, over the years the lights and a few blingy-bits have become a little more moulded to the body, instead of just bolted on; but at its core, and still spread proudly across its face, is the sense of utilitarianism. The Jeep drives like it looks. Utilitarian is one of the first things that comes to mind; sadly it came to mind less than three minutes from the show room floor. Pulling out onto a main road was the first challenge. A crystal ball was required to predict whether any traffic was going to threaten from behind the oversized B pillar. The course of events was then as follows: foot down, bonnet up, foot up, bonnet down, then up, then down, wheel turned, car leaned, wheel turned further, car turned rapidly, wheel corrected rapidly, driver confused! Was it quicker than expected? Did it have variable-ratio steering that utilised chance to determine when to vary the ratio? I didn’t have a clue, all I know is that I looked like a drunk driver pulling out of a pub at 3am. After the wave of confusion swept away, it became very obvious that the sweet spot of the 2012 Jeep is the new 3.6L, 6-cylinder petrol engine. It’s so easy to fall into the diesel trap of trying to justify the agricultural rattle of a rough diesel and sluggish on-road manners, with fuel

economy figures. Sadly if you do the math against your actual driving style, it’s often the case that it takes eons to get back the extra costs associated with buying the inflated diesel model. The old 3.8L petrol engine admittedly drank like Bob Hawke, but the new 3.6L donk is brawny and spirited, with a more reasonable need for a cheeky refill. Without the exuberance of this petrol power plant, I’m sure the desire to drive the little ‘Tonka’ truck wouldn’t have been nearly as strong. Inside, the Jeep again tugs on those utilitarian heart strings. With roll-cages, exposed metal work, manual clips for the roof, and doors held on by fabric straps, you feel that if anything went wrong you could fix it with a hammer and a mouth full of tobacco. Over the almost 70 years of production, there has been a shift towards providing more modern amenity in the Civilian Jeep. To be perfectly frank it has occurred at a glacial rate, so don’t expect a BMW experience, or for that matter a 1990 VW Golf, but the seats are comfy, the speaker system strong and the entertainment unit is a pickup straight from the more refined Jeep siblings. The one disconcerting thing about the cockpit though, which is uniquely American, is the King James Bible-sized warning labels on everything.

One label, perfectly placed in front of the driver, clearly states that, at reasonable speeds, the Jeep may spontaneously roll over. Next to that it clearly states that the fibreglass shell (loosely described as a roof) is not designed to, in any way, protect you, except from a passing rain shower. Fortunately Chuck Norris didn’t spontaneously materialise and throw me onto my roof anytime during the week (despite the sun visor’s warnings). I’m not sure who sued who for anyone to think these labels are necessary, but do yourself a favour and peel them off the day you take delivery.

Pricing is not so rational when compared against some in the more polished Jeep range, and other manufacturer contenders. Whilst the standard petrol sport seems to come in at a reasonable thirty-something mark, by the time you tick a few boxes on the Unlimited, fifty-plus grand is a simple enough hurdle. That puts it smack up against the Toyota FJ, which claims similar off-road capability, but a mountain of extra comforts. This would pose a problem for any other car, but for some reason the Wrangler just keeps chugging along with a sense of self confidence in its own desirability, and rightly so.

The Wrangler comes in two and four door models, providing vastly different passenger and luggage dynamics. The two-door is really a car based on options; you have the option of back seat passengers or storage area, not both at the same time. The Wrangler Unlimited (four-door) seems the much more intelligent buy, with reasonable rear room and a solid supply of boot space. The long wheel-base model demonstrates that some rational thought was brought into the model in the mid to late naughties. That’s not to say the Unlimited is the model you want; as is always the case, the ‘cool’ is indirectly proportional to the ‘practical’ and the standard two-door Jeep package is one very cool car.

As you can probably pick up, a week with this icon of motoring is an up and down emotional experience. No one picks up the keys to the Wrangler with a clear head, nor without the preconceived ideas of the sense of style and freedom it will afford them. However, anyone who subsequently buys a Wrangler after a twenty minute test drive has given in entirely to those notions of grandeur. The problem for Jeep is to get you in it for long enough (two to three days minimum) for you to develop the ESP required to overcome the restricted visibility, and generally learn a new driving style. If you can hold out to this point, the Wrangler’s foibles start to actually become charming idiosyncrasies. I still can’t, with all honesty, say that I would put one in my garage as a day to day driver. But I won’t rule out having one someday, at a minimum for those trips to the waterfall to drink soda pop.

spring ‘12 crema 41

Crema books Books

My Umbrian Kitchen Patrizia Stone Umbrian-born Australian chef, Patrizia Stone, is a great advocate of eating and living by the seasons. In this stylish and beautifully presented book, she shares the time-honoured rituals, stories and treasured family recipes from her childhood in rural Italy. Capturing the essence of Umbria and its culinary traditions, this is more than just a cookbook, it’s is a guide to the Umbrian way of life and its traditions. RRP: $59.99

A Sardinian Cookbook Giovanni Pilu & Roberta Muir Sydney restaurateur, Giovanni Pilu, celebrates the unique flavours of Sardinia and gives us a fascinating insight into the food and culture of his homeland. As a poor people, Sardinians have always foraged for ingredients in the mountains and forests, and those living on the coast gather clams, mussels and tiny crabs for soups and pasta sauces. With stunning photography and deliciously different recipes, this is Mediterranean cooking at its best. RRP: $49.99

Good Wine Guide 2013 Nick Stock, one of Australia’s well-known wine writers, provides tasting notes and other advice to help you make wise wine-buying choices. Whether it’s for a casual dinner, a weekend barbecue or a major celebration, you’ll find the perfect wine for the occasion, as well as suggestions for stocking your cellar. Also included is a guide to the best-value wines and tips on where to buy online, there’s even a new selection of sake reviews! RRP: $26.99 (avail. late November 2012)

42 crema spring ‘12

Industry Comment

Emily Oak

Who decides what the customer wants?

hat does a customer remember about

So why is this a topic worth discussing?

we are offered is far greater than that of most

a coffee they drink? Is it the latte art,

As I mentioned earlier, a problem occurs

other hospitality industries. Specialty coffee

the café atmosphere, the conversation they

when the goals and the outcomes don’t

needs to share with customers our product

shared with the barista or the origin and farm

line up.

and our story, because the coffee we serve

the coffee came from? Chances are it’s one

The

of the aforementioned, but what a barista is

specialty coffee retailers is how to better

trying to share and what a customer takes away is probably rarely the same thing. The experience a customer treasures from going for a coffee or visiting a cafe is often the same reason they were attracted to go there in the first place – and it is different for everyone. Of course there is no right or wrong when it comes to defining this interaction,

biggest

question

currently

facing

engage customers to share our passion. Because more often than not, it seems, customers just aren’t that into it. We have, I believe, as an industry, accepted that sometimes in the past our interactions have been less than ideal. In the push to share our cause we’ve come across as patronising,

although for the most part a feeling of trust

soap-boxy and preachy, and have not

and respect between the customer and the

actually stopped to find out what people are

café must exist.

looking for. Customers end up dissatisfied

Specialty coffee baristas love what they do. We’re passionate, dedicated and in most instances, quite thoroughly and specifically educated about the coffees we roast, dial in, pour and serve every day. We know the region and district in which it was grown; in some instances we’ve met the farmers and

and then disengage, no longer paying attention to what we’re trying to share. What we need to do as an industry is recognise that not every person who walks through the

result, people are not willing to pay what coffee is worth, or understand why in fact, we actually need to pay more. How we better spread this message is still being debated, but at the very least communication needs to be improved. Baristas need to adapt to be more respectful of the needs and wishes of their customers and understand that everyone is looking for a different outcome from their interaction. Hopefully from this basis, a new dialogue can open up. Equally, customers need to be willing to engage a little more and begin to understand that, when it comes to coffee, things can only get better.

door is looking to know the whole story…. (yet!) Equally, customers need to recognise that coffee isn’t just coffee, hopefully through

workers, and touched the trees that produce

the quality of experience and relationships

the cherries. We care about the supply

that can be developed between a café and

chain and the integrity of our product, and,

its patrons.

we want you to understand it’s true value.

As an industry, we’re in a unique position.

Despite our competing businesses, as a

Our clients visit regularly (daily in most

collective this is our common goal.

instances) and the frequency of interaction

44 crema spring ‘12

is undervalued by the general public. As a

Emily Oak is Training and Development Manager for AIR Coffee in Sydney and a former member of the WCE Board of Directors