Crema_Summer 2012 by Libby Brooke

CREMA t r a v e l

c o f f e e

w i n e

SUMMER 2012

The Café Lifestyle Magazine

Cool Summer Coffee! History of Espresso Coffee discovery: Sumatra

Cool summ Coffee $7.95 inc. GST

AUSTRALIA’S PREMIER COFFEE LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE

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Editor Libby Brooke Art Director Paul Wallace Contributors Boyd Kildey Ken Gargett Rob Stewart Paul Golding Marisa DiLisio Ian Callahan Photography Paul Golding Sam Ho Hamish Ta-mé Andrew Taylor

Distribution Gordon & Gotch

Design Cafe-communications Pty Ltd Printing Newstyle Advertising Libby Brooke Tel: (08) 8172 1236 Crema[TM] Magazine PO Box 402 Unley BC Unley, SA 5061 info@cremamagazine.com.au

Con ents

Contents Summer ‘12

features coffee discovery – Sumatra

In our continuing Coffee Discovery series, Paul Golding explores the Lake Toba region of Sumatra

cool summer coffee

We bring you some of the coolest coffee drinks this summer

08 16

ken gargett on wine No summer is complete without a glass or two of real french champagne - just back from Epernay, Ken keeps us up to date

history of espresso The espresso machine is one of Italy’s most enduring inventions; we bring you the true story of its development - Part I

regulars crema drive Boyd Kildey looks at the exciting new Audi A1

roast & ground News from the world of Australian coffee

coffee profile This issue, Rob Stewart explores the flavours of the south-west of Rwanda

Crema[TM] Magazine is published by Café-communications Pty Ltd and is copyright.

barista profile

We welcome contributions, but accept no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photography or artwork.

industry comment

ABN: 24 901 078 002 www.cremamagazine.com.au ISSN: 1447-4859

We profile one of Melbourne’s best baristas Our industry expert looks at ‘Q grading’ helping to maintain standards in the world of coffee

40 42

Edit ori al W

ith the ‘silly season’ over and the start of a new year well and truly underway, we can all look forward to undertaking some of those new year’s resolutions... mine, well it certainly wasn’t to drink less coffee! In fact, I find summer is my favourite time for enjoying coffee for all its complexity and versatility. On that note, we’d like to thank Lavazza for the great shots they provided of some cool

Editorial

summer coffees – see p 16! We’d also like to pay credit to Paul Golding for his record - both in words and pictures - of another of his fascinating trips to the source of the bean [Coffee Discovery – Sumatra].

taken from Ian Bersten’s book Tea Floats Coffee Sinks and is probably the most authoritative account of the development of the espresso machine in the world – we’ll bring you parts 2 & 3 in subsequent issues.

Due to popular demand, we’ve also included a repeat of our fascinating account of the development of the espresso machine to the sophisticated instrument we see today. This is

We hope you enjoy our first issue for 2012!

Libby Brooke

best cafes .com Cafe search & ratings site bestcafes.com.au

Crema Magazine’s dedicated online café search and review site: the first and most authoritative in Australia www.bestcafes.com.au

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estcafes is a dedicated and comprehensive national listing of cafes throughout Australia’s capital cities, as well as regional cafes throughout NSW, VIC and other states. Cafes are rated 1-5 for coffee, food and ambience and we also welcome your reviews, or if your favourite café is not listed, go ahead and submit it to our listing. After all, this café search and review site is generated by you, for you! Check out: www. bestcafes.com.au. autumn ‘10 crema 4

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WORDS & PICTURES: PAUL GOLDING

Sum

matra Coffee Discovery Sumatra

t’s just after 9pm and I’m in the back of a taxi driving

The country itself is attractive too – beautiful volcanic ranges,

through the main streets of Medan, Sumatra’s largest city.

fertile soil, rich jungle and fun, vibrant people come together

I’m smiling as I look out the windows, because in contrast

with the excellent coffee to provide a lasting experience.

to the streets of Sydney at this time on a Wednesday night,

Sumatra is the world’s 6th largest island –around 473,000

Medan is bustling with a carnival atmosphere. Lights are

square kilometers – with a population of just over 50 million.

bright, street stalls are everywhere and people of all ages

It is the most western of the Sunda Islands of Indonesia,

are out and about in huge groups, enjoying the balmy air. I

straddling the equator on the Pacific Ocean’s notorious Ring

have to restrain the urge to jump out of the car and join the

of Fire. The Great Sumatran Fault running down the west coast

throng; but it’s been a long day’s flying and I have a big day

helps make for mountainous volcanic terrain; Sumatra is the

tomorrow. The only thing I couldn’t resist was hitting Medan’s

world’s 5th highest island, with Mt Kerinci, an active volcano,

fantastic restaurant scene for some of my favourite local

rising to 3805m. Coffee is grown in the northern highlands,

specialties. You may not want to know about those however,

chiefly by the Batak people in the surrounds of the enormous

unless things which hop and slither are to your taste!

Lake Toba south of Medan, and by the Gayo people in Aceh

I’m in Sumatra to meet with several coffee exporters and

at the extreme northern end of the island.

farms, developing relationships started over the past 18

My interest for this trip lies in the coffee from the Lake Toba

months or so which have gifted us with some of the finest

region, which is commonly known and sold as Mandheling. The

coffees Sumatra has to offer.

Mandheling people actually live further south and grow little

I have a soft spot for Sumatra Mandheling; it was the first single

coffee, and the exact reason for the name is not remembered.

origin I ever tasted, and I’ve always loved the unique flavour.

One story has the name dating back to Japanese occupation summer ‘12 crema

during WWII, when a Japanese officer in Medan found the strong

chicken, pork and beef with delightfully complex flavours and the

local brew much to his liking and demanded to know where the

fresh heat of Sumatran chillies. To finish the meal we were invited

coffee came from. His waiter thought he was being asked where

to take our pick from the hanging array of fresh ripe bananas, only

he came from, and replied ‘Mandheling’. Much pleased, the

about 15cm long but with a rich creamy texture and sweet flavour.

officer advised all his men to ask for Mandheling coffee, which no

The Indonesians love social eating, and embrace visitors who

doubt puzzled the residents of Medan, who would simply provide

approach their food with enthusiasm – the conversation is loud

the available coffee from the Toba area.

and varied, new people are always joining the group, and nobody

Circumnavigating Lake Toba can be done either by car, or for

sits there playing with their mobile phone instead of joining the

the adventurous, by kayak, camping on the shoreline for as

lively talk.

many nights as the journey takes. This is quite a popular pursuit

After lunch we drove through a few local markets to see the variety

for Aussie, English and American expats living in the area, as

of produce on offer, and to ponder the benefits of refrigeration as

the scenery around the lake is particularly beautiful, the locals

we passed through the fish market, where the smell attacks you

friendly and the fishing excellent. By car the trip is about 250km

like a vicious dog and lingers in the car for far too long afterwards.

from Berastagi around through Similungan, Parapat, Lintong

Time for a quick nap and wash up before dinner. I wanted to try

and Sidikalang, finishing back in Berastagi. Sumatra’s narrow,

some specialties of the city, so we walked down through one of

mountainous roads combine with a large mobile population whose

the premier street food districts. The mental picture you should

spirited driving habits often seem insane to more conservative

have here is paved but dusty streets lit only by the lights of the

Westerners, so it’s not a bad idea to have a local driving you

carts and restaurants, busy with both foot and vehicle traffic. The

around, as long as you are not a nervous passenger inclined to

food outlets are very simple, either small carts with tiny cooking

back seat driving. Sit back, relax, and enjoy the near misses.

sets, or eateries with plastic furniture and outdoor kitchens adding

Knowing there was a big journey ahead we fortified ourselves

their smoke and aromas to the humid night air. The atmosphere

with a full day of fun first. After a traditional Indonesian breakfast

is lively, throngs of people of all ages are out, and the anticipation

at the lovely Swiss Belhotel Medan I met up with my local hosts to

of a great meal adds to the fun. We dropped into plastic chairs at

dive into Medan’s street food scene and amusements. We started

a likely-looking spot, and were soon ordering local delights such

with coffees at the Opal café and toured the amazing day spa

as turtle soup, fried frogs, wok tossed snake and ayam padang,

next door. The spa had just been completed and was ready for

the ferociously hot local chicken satays. Few people really drink

opening day, with the beautiful ladies on staff placing the finishing

much alcohol here, it’s just not considered an important part of

touches on things before the first guests arrived. The spa is for

the culture, and what goes best with the food is the delicious

women only and will offer a wide variety of well-priced beauty

iced lemon teas or fruit juices like tamarillo crush. The festival

services – definitely worth a visit if you are in Medan. While ladies

atmosphere continues until well after midnight, but with a big

visit the spa, men can head to the excellent café for coffees and

drive the next day we headed for the hotel around that time to

some very impressive western-style food.

get some sleep.

From the café we headed to Medan’s one and only crocodile

Early next day we were on the winding road to the south of Medan,

farm, a family-run operation on the outskirts of the city. Having

heading for the resort town of Parapat. Hendri was driving mildly,

worked on a croc farm in Queensland in my youth, I was keen to

only overtaking into the face of oncoming traffic during straight

see what an Indonesian version would be like. This farm is run

stretches, and sticking more or less to a reasonable speed while

more as a tourist attraction than a producer of skins and meat, so

keeping his attention mostly on the road. Thus reassured, we

there was plenty of opportunity to get close to the animals and

enjoyed the passing scenery of thick jungle, occasional monkeys,

take some photos. We had missed the feeding but still saw some

and overloaded buses with kids, dogs and luggage clinging to

pretty big crocs up close. It was definitely time for some lunch,

the exteriors. Passing through the Similungan area we saw coffee

and the boys and I intended to make it a long one! We began with

trees in small open fields, but with Parapat still several hours

bowls of traditional beef curry soup accompanied by my favourite

away we pressed on. Parapat is a once thriving resort town

iced lemon tea, before winding through the maze of streets to a

right on the lake, with several big international standard hotels

fabulous lunch place situated in the large open front room of a

in the vicinity. Mainly visited by Chinese tourists during the past

family home. The restaurant kitchen is on the footpath, consisting

few decades, the town suffered a setback after the race riots in

of a couple of cabinets for food, and two woks over charcoal. From

Medan, which made even local people of Chinese extraction very

this humble set-up came a magical variety of stunning food, fish,

wary of remaining in the area. The tourists have not yet returned,

10 crema summer ‘12

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and as we rolled into Parapat late that day it seemed there were

made machines, then stored wet for a day to soften the mucilage.

more monkeys than people out on the street. The hotels, golf

The parchment is then washed clean by hand and dried briefly

courses and lakeside area are beautiful and well tended, needing

before being sold without delay to collectors or processors, who

only tourists to fill them up. The area beckoned with watersports

will hull the still-moist coffee before final drying. This process is

possibilities and in particular some fantastic jungle hiking and the

believed to soften acidity and increase the body.

orangutan sanctuary, all things I’d love to go back and tackle, had

There are currently many challenges being faced by exporters

I been a casual tourist. Being

in bringing Mandheling coffee to

a dedicated coffee hunter

market. While good quality is still

however, it would all have to

available, specialty crop yields

wait until next time.

are well below their potential.

No coffee is grown around

As yields have dropped so has

Parapat, so we just stayed

income, leading farmers to grow

the night and headed for the

vegetable crops between the

famous

the

rows of coffee. This sounds like

following morning. One of the

a good plan on the surface, but

big highlights was passing

in fact the vegetables compete

through Lintong, for me the

with the already stressed coffee

greatest micro-region in the

for nutrients and attract pests

Toba area, which produces

which damage the crop. The

stunning coffee with lovely

cup quality of the coffee has

clear herbal flavour and very

not

elegant acidity. Surprisingly

quantity produced certainly has-

Lintong was not the shady

making life more difficult for the

jungle I was expecting, but

farmers and exporters alike. In

rather open sunny plantations

areas where coffee growing has

with unkempt looking trees

made the transition from being a

only lightly loaded with coffee

specialty product to just another

cherries. It’s apparent that

cash crop (like corn or rice), the

some of the craft of coffee

only hope for regular access

agronomy has slipped away

to high quality beans lies in

recently, but there are also

education and incentives.

environmental reasons for the

Back to the trip and our destination

state of the farms. Sumatra

that day was not Lintong but the

is an odd place as origins go.

Wahana Plantation at Sidikalang.

Instead of having a distinct

We had been getting fleeting

Lintongnihuta

harvest season, which is tied

really

suffered,

but

the

glimpses of the lake most of the

in to the local climate, the intermittent rainfall which occurs most of

day, but now we were heading into a more lush jungle area away

the year is resulting in something I have never seen anywhere else.

from the water. There were also many cleared areas replanted

Around Lake Toba it’s possible to see coffee trees with flowers,

with either rubber trees or the palms cultured to produce palm

embryonic green cherry, fully grown green cherry, and ripe cherries

oil. There is still a big deforestation problem in Sumatra, as rubber

all at the same time on a single tree. For those not involved in

and oil continue to be an important source of income for the

coffee origins, believe me, that’s weird.

island. Heavy criticism is directed at Indonesia over this issue;

The coffee known as Mandheling arises chiefly from Arabica

ironically much of the criticism comes from the countries which

trees of the ‘Linea S’ variety, originally brought down from Aceh

are the largest consumers of these products.

and doing well in the villages around Lake Toba. Its flavour owes

A visit to Wahana Plantation is probably not on the to-do list for

much to its unique processing method, largely practiced by the

many visitors, but for a coffee buyer it’s a great chance to see

small holder producers. Known as Giling Basah, or ‘wet grinding’,

coffee being grown, harvested and processed the way it should

the harvested cherries are pulped by the farmers in small hand-

be done. During my stay I saw a midnight processing, explored

12 crema summer ‘12

Preceding page: villages on the shores of beautiful Lake Toba. A Javanese girl at the day spa in Medan. Opposite: Sumatra produces a variety of crops, including cocoa! This page [clockwise from top left]: a 1kg microlot’ at Wahana Estate; green beans before undergoing an experimental ‘honey’ process; coffee cherry damaged by borer, the larva visible at the top; hand-picked red cherries at Wahana. Next page: cold glare of a crocodile at the Medan Croc Farm; Men watch over a fish farm on Lake Toba, at Tongging.

summer ‘12 crema

the various fields of single varietal coffee trees and played with a baby Luwack, the small cat-like creature which eats coffee cherries and excretes supposedly amazing flavoured and definitely high priced beans-hmmm. I was also introduced at close range to the scourge of the Sumatran coffee farmer – La Broca, or Coffee Berry Borer (CBB). This small beetle bores into ripening coffee cherries and lays eggs, which produce a maggoty worm that eats the bean. Needless to say this is not good for the crop. CBB occurs worldwide, but Lake Toba is having a bad time with it right now, and some farmers are losing up to 35% of their crop to borer damage.

Having seen Wahana over a couple of days, the trip was drawing to a close. We headed back to Medan, an interesting 4 hour drive taking in Sumatra’s amazing jungles, me promising myself a return trip to see the orangutan sanctuary, and perhaps some of the other amazing animals and plants inhabiting the forest here. As we rolled into Medan tired and dusty though, we all had only one thought in mind – a few Bintang beers and another tour of the restaurant zone!

14 crema summer ‘12

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Crema books Books

The Edible Balcony Indira Naidoo

Apparently, when journalist and TV broadcaster Indira Naidoo began growing herbs, fruit and vegetables on her tiny 13th floor apartment balcony, her family thought she’d ‘lost the plot’. However, as the story goes, she was motivated by a desire to cook and eat her own garden produce and so, Indira spent a year growing more than 40 edibles, including tomatoes, zucchinis, eggplants and potatoes. The result is a somewhat contrived but rather charming guide to the fundamentals of growing fresh food in a small space. Supported by lovely photography, it also features 60 seasonal recipes. Foody experiment or media ploy – hmm? Either way, it’s all for a good cause. RRP $39.95 Penguin Australia

The Casual Cyclists’s Guide to Melbourne Matt Hurst & Guests Attention tourists, hipsters and urbanites – this quirky little book is a bit of a gem and brings a fresh and entertaining perspective to hopping on your bike. The author has brought together guest writers – from architects to chefs, historians to designers – to bring you an interesting collection of routes to ride and places to explore. With historical snippets and practical advice for safe cycling, it also rides a more serious line, in between exploring good shopping, searching for the best beer or the perfect picnic spot. And although some coffee highlights are missing, you can ride confident of being steered in the right direction when it comes to your essential dose of caffeine. RRP $19.95 Hardie Grant Books

Barista Techniques John Doyle This second edition builds on the internationally acclaimed and successful first edition which sold more than 10,000 copies worldwide. This coffee training resource covers all the necessary barista basics, including: preparing the work area, espresso machine and grinder, seasoning the espresso machine and advising customers. Other essential barista skills covered in detail are: grinding coffee, espresso extraction, milk texturing and cleaning the espresso machine. This resource is also an essential tool for those already working in and/or those wishing to join the hospitality industry: teachers, high-school students, cafe owners and employees and all those interested in espresso coffee who want to know more about what’s involved in extracting the ‘perfect espresso’. RRP $49.50

books: books: books:

20 crema summer ‘12

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ken gargett on wine

Champagne B

eneath the sedate streets of Epernay in the Champagne region of France, including the magnificently named ‘Avenue de Champagne’, in the maze of seemingly endless caves and tunnels are millions of bottles of the world’s finest fizz, quietly maturing, until their turn to emerge; disgorged, labelled and sent forth around the globe to help celebrate – anything and everything from weddings to christenings, to car racing, to simply being alive. Among these bottles is a very special vault, which, if you have a lazy ten grand (euros), will provide a unique connection across generations for up to a century. Appropriate, as only 100 sets are available. Perrier-Jouet, as part of their extensive 200th anniversary (and you really know that this is a House with a venerable history when you see a bottle of the 1825 vintage, the oldest known bottle in any of the region’s cellars, sitting in the caves – and sadly, no, they did not open it), have instigated what they call the ‘Living Legacy’ cellar. Here is how it works. For your 10K (euros), you get a pair of magnums of the 1998 Belle Epoque, a superb champagne. Each comes housed in a beautifully sculptured, numbered container, which was designed and signed by American artist, Daniel Arsham. Actually, you only get one. The other one goes into a wall cellar with full security, thermal controls and so on, where it can sit for the next 100 years. The lucky hundred can, if they so wish, front up the next week and collect it, or they can leave it to their children, or grandchildren – just so long as someone turns up within the next 100 years. You can write a message to them which will be held in a safe until the time. Of course, Perrier-Jouet is simply one of a great many of the Champagne Houses in fine form at the moment. G.H. Mumm and 22 crema summer ‘12

Moet et Chandon are two of the very largest, especially the latter. Both cop flack on the ‘big can’t be beautiful’ principle, yet I think a good argument could be put forth that both are in the best form, if not ever, then certainly for many years. Put it down to the talent and tenacity of two remarkable champagne makers, who have improved quality across the board for their respective wines – Didier Mariotti for Mumm and Benoit Gouez at Moet. Didier took over at Mumm in 2006. The flagship, Rene Lalou, was revived with the stunning 1998 (when one tries the 99, it seems that it might be one of those rare wines where 1999 exceeds its predecessor, but when one goes back, the full glories of the earlier one shine forth). As with every House, the nonvintage is the key wine and Mumm’s Cordon Rouge, which had fallen even further than its poor reputation suggested, is now a pleasing fresh style, worthy of this great House. Their 2004 has more intensity and power, a lingering toasty note on the finish. My favourite Mumm is the delicious Mumm de Cramant, a blanc de blancs, and perhaps the only Mumm fizz which maintained its standards throughout the darker years. Moet et Chandon is the largest House of all. Most interesting about a recent visit was a passing comment. In past decades, vintages would be declared three or four times a decade, now they believe that they will be in a position to release a vintage 8 or 9 times a decade. Welcome to global warming. Benoit has tinkered with their non-vintage, bringing down the dosage a smidge (obviously, one cannot tinker with the world’s most popular champagne too much without incurring the ire of fans around the globe). The result is a smarter wine. Their 2002 is also an exceptional

wine from a very fine year. As well as the exciting revival of some famous Houses, this is a glorious time for lovers of champagne. Many of the usual suspects remain in the finest form. Veuve Clicquot has been superb for a very long time now, across the board. Louis Roederer tends to release its champagnes with a little less time on lees than many, yet the wines are always pristine and elegant Krug is as regal as ever. Bollinger offers wines of infinite complexity. Billecart-Salmon makes champagnes of delightful finesse. Pol Roger is eternally reliable – if not everyone’s favourite House, then surely the fall-back for us all. Dom Perignon has been releasing wonderful wines, especially the 2002, though it remains to be seen if the soon to arrive 2003 maintains that standard. Ruinart is a famous old name that is also re-establishing itself as a premium maker. The Champenois have been blessed by a string of excellent vintages. We are just starting to see an occasional 2006 and 2005 on the market, with the younger of the two looking to take the honours, though it will take some time before a final verdict can be delivered. We are seeing many 2002’s and 2004’s, both very good, with 2002 surely the best vintage since the amazing 1996. 2003 is best avoided, though even that hot, largely unpleasant vintage exceeds 2001. 2000 is another very good year. 1998 and 1999 seem to compete, but for me, the older vintage is the superior. Now is the ideal time for anyone who loves champagne to enjoy the many great wines available and to fill the cellars for the years to come. KBG

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Confusion and error still plague the history of the espresso machine and its inventors. Coffee expert Ian Bersten has gone further than anyone else in getting to the true story in his book ‘Coffee Floats, Tea Sinks’. In this issue we publish the first of a three part piece comprising edited extracts from the chapter entitled: ‘The Espresso Coffee Machine Revolution’

The First Espresso Machine with Water and Steam Control

talian inventors Luigi Bezzera and Desiderio Pavoni are generally considered to be the inventors of the first espresso machine in the 1920s. However, the actual history is a little less clear-cut. The early machines made long espresso-type coffees, where several cups of water were forced through lightly-compressed coffee. In this sense the product was somewhere between filter coffee and true espresso coffee, but probably closer to the former. Later, espresso machines used pumps and were able to make short, strong espresso coffee, one or two cups at a time. While the idea of impregnating the From the first days of brewing coffee, inventors were confronted with the interplay of coffee with steam before extraction grind size, water temperature and brewing time, the interaction of which they never fully is seen in the 1827 Laurens patent in France, Gustav Kessel a German, has understood. These critical factors had to be just right for a complete extraction of the coffee the honour of lodging the first patent flavour. Vacuum pump machines and the vacuum pot were early attempts to solve the (in 1878) for a machine with separate reluctance of the water to filter through the coffee. controls to cause the water and then Despite these endeavours to get all the flavour out of the coffee bean, it still held something back. Often the steam to pass through the coffee, the technology lagged behind the ideas of the inventors and there was also a lack of understanding of held in a filter holder with a bayonet the coffee making process. For example, the pressure from a boiler was not strong enough to make fitting. For whatever reason – too small a complete extraction in a short time. And since the boiling water was never fully expressed from the or too clumsy or because there was coffee grounds during the brewing process, steam was used to dry the coffee, by expelling the water not enough steam pressure to make it from the grounds more quickly, rather than to extract any further flavour. However, for years the work effectively – the machine’s use was not widespread, if in fact it was inventors believed that passing steam through the coffee was vital for a more complete extraction. ever manufactured. Kessel’s was one of They simply had it wrong, as once the flavour is extracted, steam can extract no more – only bitterness. several machines using a combination The pursuit of perfect extraction from the coffee bean was to continue for a long time. of hot water and steam to make tea and coffee. All these patents are compatible with the idea, expressed in a French patent by Dartois in 1879, that there was a need to use steam to get full extraction…a false notion that held sway for another seventy years.

Beginnings of the Commercial Espresso Machine Even if an inventor’s name is known, it is very difficult to find any details of a patent in Italy, especially prior to 1900. Sheer luck led to my discovery, while searching through French patents in Paris, of a patent signed by Angelo Moriondo of Turin, lodged on the 23rd October 1885, for a coffee machine. Moriondo’s machine was

summer ‘12

crema

a solidly constructed bulk brewer of fifty cups, with a large boiler heated by gas. It was almost certainly the first Italian bar machine that controlled the supply of steam and water separately through the coffee. Without separate controls, the large boiler would almost have had to empty its contents before any steam could be passed through the coffee. Surprisingly, Moriondo has never been mentioned in other historic accounts of the development of the espresso machine but he was deeply involved and is certainly one of the earliest discoverers of the espresso machine, if not the earliest. The Italian patent system is probably responsible for his exclusion from the picture.

One of the first written references to an espresso machine is by Dr. A. Cougnet writing in 1909 for La Scena Illustrata, a magazine published in Florence. In the article he referred to freshly brewed coffee as the true coffee ‘made on purpose’ recommended by Senator Mantegazza, a writer of books on popular hygiene. Cougnet went on to say: ‘The ldeale is a marvellous patented apparatus, the property of Mr. Desiderio Pavoni of Milan, well-known to all gourmets... and won a gold medal at the recent International Exhibition in Milan”. [English translation]

Moriondo’s machine was important, not only for itself but because its design could clearly be manufactured. His patent claimed that his machine employed a unique system involving the application and utilisation of steam for instantaneous filtration and economic preparation of coffee. The unique system was really a restatement of earlier ideas that steam was necessary to make a complete extraction, but his machine was the first Italian machine to actually separate the idea of steam and water into distinct functions with a separate supply of steam and hot water. This kind of machine, with its bayonet fitting, could have been a link between Moriondo’s bulk brewer and Luigi Bezzera’s single-cup brewer. The one-cup machine – an espresso machine in name but not in fact.

H of

It was Bezzera who created the ‘one cup at a time’ machine. But why did he want to make one cup at a time? In cafes in Paris, and probably Milan, one of the most popular ways to make coffee at that time was to place a small filter over a cup, producing ‘caffe expres’ – coffee made expressly for the customer. Bezzera’s machine used exactly the same brewing principle as had Moriondo, and even had a similar large-sized boiler, but instead of making large

E fig.1: Moriondo design

28 crema summer ‘12

numbers of cups at a time, he used a bayonet fitting of one-cup size. Bezzera lodged his patent on the 19th November 1901, and an amendment including a steam relief valve, on the 17th January 1902, under his name, but which was probably made by Desiderio Pavoni, a friend of his. What exactly did Luigi Bezzera invent? He did not invent espresso coffee as we know it today. The low pressure in the boiler of threequarters of an atmosphere was too low for the machine to be anything but a rapid filtering machine. The word ‘espresso’ does not appear in his patent nor does the word ‘cappuccino’. (The word cappuccino possibly derives from the colour of the habits of the Cappuchin monks). What Bezzera did was to combine the idea of a single cup of coffee with an existing machine such as Moriondo’s and he claimed that this was an instantaneous coffee machine. His patent says: ‘The other machines of the day make a large quantity of coffee for example, fifty cups, in such a way that the coffee stays fresh and rich in aroma only for the first cups served immediately after the action of the water and steam, while in the present machine, the coffee is made one cup at a time’ [English translation]. Bezzera’s invention was the handle with the filter in it and the connecting bayonet fitting on the machine for making one cup of coffee at a time – much as we use today. Bezzera’s object was not only to make the coffee faster but also to force the water through the coffee. In doing so, this solved a problem that had existed for decades – if the coffee was ground too finely, the water simply would not filter through at all. In 1906 an international trade fair was held in Milan, where Bezzera had a large stand and Caffe espresso was offered for the first time, made in the Ideale machine [see next page], which was advertised on a sign on one of the front pillars.

ELECTRICITY AND OTHER DEVELOPMENTS In the time of Bezzera and Pavoni, gas was widely used but electricity was becoming more widely available and inventors quickly found new applications. In many cases the ideas were excellent, but were ahead of their time in terms of the pressure and electrical control equipment required to use them. The Marzetti machine of 1910 conveyed the water – which was boiled in the base of the machine by electric elements – through the coffee by steam pressure. Electricity was used in new machines from about 1908 and the Marzetti was one of the first examples of this.

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The ‘Ideale’ Machine Now a new character enters the frame – a man by the name of Desidero Pavoni. Pavoni’s addition to the Bezzera machine was probably the steam relief valve, at least all the evidence points to this being the case. Many people have confused the machines and the achievements of both these men. Even though the steam relief valve appeared in Bezzera’s 1902 addition to his patent under Bezzera’s name, it was almost certainly made by Pavoni, who lodged an identical relief valve drawing in France and Germany, under his name a few months later. The traditional story is that Bezzera was in financial strife and Pavoni helped him out by buying the patent for ten thousand Lira, a considerable sum in those days. What is certain is that the patent was transferred to Pavoni in 1903. Another version is that Pavoni bought the factory from Bezzera. Interestingly, La Pavoni company brochures say that the business was founded in 1905. More than likely, Pavoni bought the patent and the rights to make the relief valve machine while allowing Bezzera to make his original machine. That theory would be consistent with the fact that Bezzera did not include the valve on his own machines. Whatever the case, Pavoni’s machine was strongly based on the Bezzera design. One thing is certain – the stand at the Milan Fair in 1906, though it bore as the main sign the name Bezzera, was in fact a stand which featured the Pavoni machines. Pavoni’s name appears on the column in the stand together with Bezzera’s. In early Italian sources Bezzera’s name was not mentioned. Cougnet in 1909 and Leonida Valerio in 1927 mentioned only Pavoni. Both the Pavoni and Bezzera companies were producing throughout the period and I can only assume that it was the Pavoni machine that dominated the market. Certainly the pressure relief valve is on every modern machine because, with the higher pressure from the electric pump, it is very necessary. Perhaps Pavoni’s gas control valve, which he patented in 1905, was the critical difference between the two machines.

Next issue: how a man named Achille Gaggia changed the paradigm

Vibiemme have introduced the new DOMOBAR Junior HX to complement a now full domestic range of home espresso machines. Placed as the middle sibling between Domobar Super and Domobar Piccolo, the Junior HX is a heat exchange unit with all the super features downsized to fit the smaller home bench top. The machine layout still allows for the 1.4 L HX boiler and mandatory hefty E61 group head to nearly fit within the boundaries of an A4 size paper sheet (actual size 22.5 W x 35 D x 40 H cm). Only offered in full stainless steel. Please visit www.domobar.com.au for an online lesson in how to use your home espresso machine like a professional.

Boyd Kildey puts the Audi A1 TFSI Sport through its paces...

here is no shortage of retro styled micro cars swanning around

As a stand-alone vehicle the Audi A1 has some attributes that make it

the streets of Oz these days. The introduction of the New

a beacon of automotive engineering. Mercedes make car doors that

VW Beetle and Mini Cooper over a decade ago turned out to be

reassuringly thud like a fallen Ironbark. Audi make their dashboards

a raging success, despite plenty of heavy criticism for their bulky

from the Ironbark. The quality is unparalleled in this segment and to

dimensions and ‘blast from the past’ design. It only made sense

be honest unparalleled in far more expensive vehicles. The inner

then for the rest to follow and find a way to make small... sexy. The

sanctum won’t blow your hair back with excitement though. The

Fiat 500, Alfa Romeo MiTo and now the Audi A1 represent the rest

air vents are a bit funky but ultimately the rest is clinically German,

of high-end micro class. This is a class full of potential and full of

which whilst practical and pleasant may very well penalise vehicle

innovative attractions to lure the savvy yuppies that more often than

sales in such a style driven segment.

not are the purchasing demographic.

On the topic of style, the exterior lumps and bumps of the A1 are

Crema :: Drive Where the Audi will put the pressure on is drive quality. The car that I had the pleasure of zipping around in for the week was the most powerful of the range. It’s unnecessarily quick and the rubber was unnecessarily low profile, but boy it was necessarily fun. The BMW 135i Coupe is not a direct competitor and probably the A1 TFSI Sport would only receive a participation award up against it for any of the key statistics or track work. On the street though, this car was as chuckable, as practically quick and ultimately far more pleasurable to drive than the 135i Coupe. Do yourself a favour and don’t specify the s-line sports paraphernalia and you will have a wonderfully assured and big feeling little car. Space is never going to be the reason you buy a micro car. That’s not exactly rocket science. What space you do get though is prime real estate and must be, ergonomically speaking, Frank Lloyd Wright designed, so when called upon it’s as useable as possible. Again the Audi shone. Having to move some large boxes, I thought the Audi was about the worst car I could have had for the day…wrong! Three tea chests and three smaller cardboard boxes later, the A1 had absorbed everything I had thrown at it with ease. Its headline attributes make this a difficult vehicle to place in the market. It is the best car of its segment by some margin, but will it sell? Biggest problem of all is the price. At forty to likely to be its achilles heel. It isn’t a case

fifty something when decently specc’d, an A1

that the car is ugly or for that matter ill

is a bit of a scary prospect for a matchbox

proportioned, but it does seem to suffer

car. It’s not by itself in the disproportionally

from a mixed message. You can see there

priced zone, but it just seems to have found

was pressure to include retro cues but

a position, which is unfortunately traditionally

equally it’s obvious this was met by Audi’s

Audi, slightly above its competitors. A rational

standard design philosophy – to build pretty

person might be able to justify the extra clams

but painfully understated cars. What’s left is

for the fit, finish and drive, but a rational

a tad vanilla and far from polarising or lust

person may not be particularly interested in

-worthy like a Fiat 500 or Mini Cooper.

the high-end micro class.

summer ‘12

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Gloria Jean’s Coffees introduces their ‘coffee hous Gloria Jean’s Coffees opened the doors to their first coffee houses to incorporate their new Coffee House of the Future vision, marking the biggest and most significant brand revamp in the company’s history. The new coffee houses in Norwest, Sydney and Melbourne Central, Victoria mark new era for the company, with a refreshed coffee house interior design characterised by a contemporary appearance, clean lines, quality finishes and a comfortable environment. According to Gloria Jean’s Coffees Chief Executive Officer - Pacific, Gareth Pike, this is the largest project undertaken by Gloria Jean’s Coffees in the history of the brand. “The opening of these two coffee houses is a significant milestone for Gloria Jean’s Coffees as it paves the way for strong future growth by re- igniting

‘Coffee House of the Future’

Coffee news

se of the future’... consumers’ love for Australia’s largest coffee company,” said Pike. “Our new Coffee House of the Future vision sets our sights firmly on the future and will ensure Gloria Jean’s Coffees remains at the cutting edge of the specialty coffee market,” he said. Gloria Jean’s Coffees has more than 460 coffee houses throughout Australia and is set to open a further 40 new coffee houses within the next year incorporating the Coffee House of the Future. Pike said that the innovation in layout and guest experience introduced by Coffee House of the Future will allow Gloria Jean’s Coffees to enter into new markets. “The contemporary aesthetic of our coffee houses provides the opportunity to strengthen our presence across the country, particularly in central business districts with our new kiosk format, increasing competition and providing greater employment in key territories,” he said. New team roles, with specialised Maitre’d, Baristas and Purveyors, provide knowledge and expertise at every touch point of the coffee house. The fresh, new food menu caters to all occasions and needs, including breakfast, lunch and grab and go products for convenience and reflects seasonal trends with a focus on premium ingredients. “The Coffee House of the Future vision is to deliver a great coffee experience to our guests, in a unique, contemporary environment. State-of-the art technology together with our new speciality team will ensure each guest receives an exceptional experience every time they visit,” said Pike.

Gloria Jean’s Coffees Norwest Shop 23B, Norwest Marketown, Norwest Boulevarde

Gloria Jean’s Coffees Melbourne Central Shop L01 1K1 Melbourne Central 300 Lonsdale Street

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New So Good ‘Barista’

Roa Gr

any Australians have discovered the benefits of replacing dairy

in their diet and this is leading to the growing popularity of Soy

Coffees.

So Good Regular is Australia’s favourite soy milk, although like most soy milks it can prove difficult for a barista to handle well. So the team

at Sanitarium have developed a soy milk to truly compliment a carefully

extracted espresso. It’s specially formulated using whole soybeans for an easy frothing blend, giving a richer, silkier textured coffee. So

every cup you make is as delicious as you expect your coffee to be,

with all the benefits of soy. Rich in calcium and a source of protein,

So Good Barista is dairy free and cholesterol free. So Good Barista is available now at Woolworths and Independent stores nationally.

De Longhi Icona

elebrate the start of a new day, mark special moments or simply relax with the unmistakeable, intense aroma of an authentic

Italian coffee. inspired by the glamour of 1950’s Italy, the Icona pump espresso machine is part of a unique ‘breakfast collection’ from DeLonghi, featuring three layered high gloss finish, chrome detailing and a solid curvaceous build. Easy to use and suitable for use with both ground coffee and coffee pods, the De’Longhi Icona espresso coffee machine guarantees excellent results and perfectly encompasses the Italian passion for coffee. www.delonghi.com.au

summer ’12 crema

ast& round Roast & Ground

We’d love you to join us here at Crema on Facebook and Twitter...

It’s a lot of fun and a great way to

keep in touch with Crema magazine in between issues!

www.facebook.com/cremamagazine www.twitter.com/cremamagazine

Grinders 100% Fairtrade and Organic blends.

rinders now offers at-home coffee drinkers locally roasted cafe quality coffee, in Fairtrade and or-

ganic blends. They’re 100% Australian certified organic, which means no chemicals or pesticides have been used in the supply of the beans. And they’re Fairtrade certified, which guarantees a fair wage and improved living conditions for producers and their families. Grinder’s new zip lock pack locks in flavour and aroma for a delicious fresh coffee flavour to the last sip - giving fresher aroma and fresher flavour. Grinder’s new blends are now available at Coles, so you can enjoy cafe quality coffee at home: • 200gm Crema ground – a 100% organic and Fairtrade Arabica blend perfect for lovers of smooth mellow coffee. • 200gm Espresso ground – a 100% organic and Fairtrade Arabica blend perfect lovers of rich full flavoured coffee.

Crema kitchen :: Cannoli

chocolate cannoli

“Deliciously decadent, fresh cannoli are the perfect treat to enjoy with a coffee...”

Marisa Di Lisio has been teaching European cooking and giving cafe style food classes at Melbourne’s CAE for over 13 years. She has recently opened her flagship cafe Bella Cosi, located at 71 Beach Street, Port Melbourne [www.bellacosi.net.au].

Ricotta & Chocolate Cannoli 350g fresh ricotta 150g caster sugar ½ cup dark chocolate chopped ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 8 cannoli shells Icing sugar mixture for dusting cannoli when filled

38 crema summer ‘12

smooth. Fold in half of chopped chocolate into mixture. Melt remaining chocolate in a small container in the microware. Dip each tip of the empty cannoli shells into the melted chocolate and set aside until chocolate has set. Spoon the ricotta mixture into a piping bag.

Method

Pipe the ricotta evenly into the cannoli shells.

Place the ricotta, sugar and vanilla in a large

Arrange the filled cannoli on a serving plate.

bowl. Using a wooden spoon mix well until

Dust evenly with icing sugar and serve .

Cof fee Coffee profile : Rwanda

Rob Stewart

ecently I made some time to watch the movie Hotel Rwanda, but up until then I had never been a big fan of Don Cheadle except for his role as Buck Swope in Boogie Nights (‘Chocolate love 100%’). The movie takes place at the beginning of the horrible 1994 genocide in which nearly 1 million people were killed in 100 days. I would have been 16 at the time this was happening; I remember reading about it in the newspapers and seeing it on TV and remember being absolutely horrified. The catalyst for watching the movie was some of the up-and-coming Rwandan Cup of Excellence entries I was cupping early that week. Before this session Rwandan coffee had not been on my radar, but now they were. Not only did the entries amaze me with their complex cup profiles but I was taken by the stories each of the farms had to tell about themselves. I came to learn that this was a country that had completely recreated its coffee industry and is now beginning to establish itself as a serious player in the specialty coffee market, since the awful events that unfolded in 1994. Rwanda is a land-locked country situated just a few degrees south of the Equator in the heart of Africa, that’s a third the size of Tasmania with approximately 11.3 million people. Coffee cultivation takes up nearly three quarters of this land because of the near perfect growing conditions, which include high altitudes, rich volcanic soil and a stable climate. There are over 400,000 farms growing small crops on about 1 hectare of land which can be found in the regions of Rusizi and Nyamasheke in the south west, Huye in the south, Muhanga,

Gakenke and Rulindo in the North and Rutsiro in the east, just to name a few. Ever since 1904 when the Germans occupied the land (and soon after World War 1 when Belgium took control) Rwanda has been producing coffee; predominantly the Bourbon varietal with scattering of Catuai and Caturra.

Before the genocide, the coffee industry was caught in an endless cycle of producing low grade coffee at a low price. There was only one washing station and that was only really used for demonstrations, the industry was uninspired to say the least. In the aftermath of 1994 a plan to revive the industry was conceived by the government and by 1999 a strategy to rescue its coffee industry was in place, later to be revised in early 2004. The new plans would enable them to harness the potential of Rwandan coffee by overhauling the entire process, which included everything from production and infrastructure to processing and marketing. USAID-backed programs such as PEARL and ADAR helped facilitate the farmers in reaching their potential. Coops were founded, training in agriculture and cupping and the construction of washing stations started taking place. Farms were beginning to receive Fair Trade certification and by 2007 they ran a national competition called the ‘Crop of Gold’; in practice for the following year’s first ever Cup of Excellence. Rwandans’ coffee profile is vast and its cupping characteristics are right up there with Costa Ricans, Kenyans and Ethiopian coffees. The coffee I have just started using comes from the Rusizi region in the south west corner called ‘Rwandan Inzovu’ and is produced by a co-op

of 30 farmers called the Urengerekawa. With good all high grade Africans a light to medium roast will yield amazing results especially if brewed in a Trifecta, Chemex or if you have the time, a cold drip.

Inzovu is a definitive Rwandan cup. The dry fragrance has a balanced sweetness, briochelike and cinnamon-flavoured. Wet aromatics have rose-like floral notes and caramelized cane sugar sweetness. This cup has lots of sweet mulling spices (clove / allspice) and there is a dominant orange zest and vanilla bean flavour punching through. The mouth feel isn’t heavy but there is a buttery texture and if this coffee is left to cool, it will bring out more of the fruited acids and delicate zesty notes. For me this is coffee best enjoyed black and through a drip style brewer, to really appreciate the complex flavours.

The coffee: Location: Rusizi, Rwanda Plant Types: Bourbon Process: Wet process

Cup Profile Fragrance/Aroma: sweet bread, cinnamon, floral Flavour: mulling spices, orange zest, vanilla Aftertaste: clean Body: buttery

summer ‘12

crema

Profile :: Barista

Andreas Martinu grew up in the inner city of Melbourne, so it’s really no surprise that coffee and cafes are in his blood...

he oldest of three children, Andreas’ Austrian-born

Andreas soon moved his way up at Atomica. By mid-2009 his love-

parents immigrated to Australia in their 20’s and settled

affair with coffee and his growing expertise lead to the position

in Melbourne. From a very young age, hospitality has been a

of Roaster with Atomica, a role which he still values and enjoys

part of Andreas’ life. As a toddler, when his parents managed

today.

the restaurant in Melbourne’s

However, his formative years in

Austrian Club, Andreas literally

hospitality were calling him back

grew up in the kitchen! His

and the ideal of returning to

family then went on to open

owning and running his own cafe

a theatre restaurant in the

was getting stronger. Finally, at

late ‘90s and Andreas, at the

the beginning of this year, and in

tender age of 16, became the

partnership with his sister Annie,

restaurant manager. Andreas

Andreas

had definitely ‘caught the bug’

Specialty Coffee and Tea, located

as he went on to study Event

in Melbourne’s northern suburb of

Management

Ascot Vale.

uni

while

opened

Reverence

continuing to work with his

With a La Marzocco GB5 and

family in the restaurant.

Mazzer Robur grinders on show,

In 2005, Andreas and his

as the name would suggest, it’s

mother bought a cafe in Fitzroy

‘nothing but the best’ when it

and it was the beginning of his

comes to coffee. They offer a two

love affair with coffee. Inspired

bean blend called ‘Carousel’ – a

by the creative possibilities,

blend of El Salvador San Emilio

Andreas became involved in

and Cup of Excellence Honduras

the Melbourne specialty coffee

Aguas Dulces, specially crafted

scene, at first seeking out

and roasted by Andreas himself.

training courses and soaking

They also offer a range of single

up as much knowledge as

origins, and as befitting any self

he could from the Melbourne

respecting specialty cafe, you

coffee-cognoscenti.

can sample these as Aeropress,

By early 2007 Andreas was

pourover or cold drip, as well as

well-and-truly hooked and left

espresso.

his cafe to begin working at

Specialty tea is also given the same

Atomica Coffee, servicing espresso machines and conducting

‘reverence’ as coffee, using three Marco EcoSmart boilers to brew

barista training. And on the weekends he joined the team at

teas at their optimum temperature. Chocolate is also not forgotten,

the well-known Maling Room in Canterbury to hone his coffee

with single origin cocoa used from Valrhona and Felchlin.

skills. From technician and training to account management,

In addition to being active in the Melbourne barista scene, Andreas

42 crema summer ‘12

Best

annual

Cafes

Melbourne coffee review. Despite

being

one

Melbourne’s newest entries into an already flourishing cafe scene, Andreas and his sister must be doing something right at Reverence – in their first week, they

were ‘blown away’ by the

PICS: AM HO

customer response and are already getting rave reviews.

has trained and coached many high ranking baristas. He is also a respected judge, having judged in the AASCA Barista and Latte Art comps both in Victoria and Queensland and

Reverence Specialty Coffee and Tea

for several years now, has been a valued

155 Union Rd, Ascot Vale VIC 3032

member of the panel of Crema Magazine’s

Tel: 03 9375 2170

summer ‘12

crema

Industry Comment

Ian Callahan

It wouldn’t be surprising if you’d never heard the term ‘Q grader’ or ‘Q certified coffee’ used in reference to either a certain coffee or coffee professional. Ian Callahan has just completed the qualification and takes us through the accreditation experience...

he Q Coffee System was developed first

many individual roaster ‘approaches’ to

pretty well everything you do. So you simply

and foremost to help define specialty

cupping (plenty of which are far removed

have to push through the fatigue and keep on

grade arabica coffee around the world, and

from the SCAA standards talked about at

putting your best foot forward.

help farmers that have the potential to meet

the Q graders), I wanted to take away with

On the last day you have a chance to re-sit

the strict standards involved. It does this by

me a broader knowledge base and more

anything you may not have passed. There

developing a common language between

systematic approach to cupping coffees.

are some things, like the general knowledge

buyers and sellers that is both meaningful

I was also excited about both spending a

exam, which can’t be re-sat. But most other

and quantifiable, independent of language,

week with other coffee people of varied

things you get a second crack at. Having

race or personal cupping bias.

backgrounds, all expressing different ideas

said that, if you had to re-sit quite a few

A ‘Q grader’ is essentially a professionally

and views of specialty coffee. And the

things on this day you’d really be pushing

accredited cupper. In order to qualify you

opportunity to taste such a diverse list of great

your taste buds to the limit so you really

must pass five days of intensive palate

coffees side by side is always appealing!

want to be thinking of each exam as final,

and olfactory testing, involving 22 sections

I really wasn’t expecting to pass the

and the last day as just a bonus round.

on coffee related subjects, such as green

certification my first time through, but instead

By the end, I really found the way I perceive

grading, roast identification, coffee cupping,

was looking to grow my brain a little...

taste and smell had changed. My mind was

The first day was fairly relaxed and served

better able to discern why I liked – or did

as a warm-up into the course. We had trial

not like – a certain coffee, and I was better

triangulations, open cuppings to calibrate

equipped to really break down that coffee.

our taste buds, and a chance to familiarise

Getting the qualification was simply a nice

ourselves with the 36 aromatic vials we’d

pat on the back at the end of it all, as I found

sensory skills, sensory triangulation, response to organic acids, general coffee knowledge and your ability to sniff. While there is an opportunity to re-take some of the things you may have failed, you must in the end pass every component in order to be qualified.

have to identify over the next three days.

it was worthwhile going through the process

There are many great cuppers that have

Nothing was assessed so it was a great way

simply for the knowledge-base alone.

no certification, and many Q graders who

to identify which areas you were likely to

The course is run by various instructors from

will probably never actually be involved in

struggle with over the coming days.

the Coffee Quality Institute in the US, so if

Days two, three and four are all basically

you’d like more info be sure to head to their

game days, when it’s all on, in earnest. It’s

website. http://www.coffeeinstitute.org.

Q-certifying a coffee. So if that’s the case, why then would anyone subject themselves to a punishing five days of sensory overload?

exhausting slurping, sniffing and spitting your

While I can’t comment for everyone, I can

way through around 100 coffees a day! On

tell you the many reasons why I went along.

any other day I’d be claiming palate fatigue,

Firstly, as someone who hasn’t done a lot of

but one of the great but stressful things about

cupping in the past, and having witnessed

the Q grading is that you’re being tested on

crema summer ‘12

Ian Callahan is a former South Australian barista champion and owner of Bar NIne Espresso bar in Adelaide .