INGREDIENT NOTES j BY STEVE DUNN, ANDREW JANJIGIAN, LAN LAM, ANNIE PETITO & KRISTIN SARGIANIS k
Cilantro: More than Just Leaves
Tasting Ground Turmeric
Coriandrum sativum—better known as cilantro or coriander—is an entirely edible plant. The leaves and stems are used widely in Asian and South American cuisines. Coriander “seeds” are the dried fruit of the plant (and inside each fruit is a seed). They’re used whole, crushed, or ground and are a common ingredient in Indian and Middle Eastern dishes and in vegetable pickling. The plant’s roots, while not as widely used as the leaves and seeds, are sometimes found in Asian curries and soups, particularly in Thailand. In general, delicate cilantro leaves are used as a garnish before serving or added late in the cooking process because they quickly lose their aroma when heated, whereas the heartier roots and seeds are typically added earlier to contribute to the foundational lavor of a dish. Interestingly, around 12 percent of the global population are able to detect particular fatty aldehyde compounds in cilantro that give it an unpleasant “soapy” lavor. –S.D.
We’ve always used turmeric in Indian-inspired curries, rice, and vegetables, but now this vibrant orange spice is showing up in all sorts of foods and drinks. The uptick in popularity is due in large part to curcumin, a compound in turmeric that has gotten a lot of attention for its antioxidant properties, although no scientiic studies have proven that eating it confers any health beneits. Does it matter which ground turmeric you buy? To ind out, we purchased ive products priced from $2.10 to $3.46 per ounce and sampled them in warm milk and in our Turmeric Chicken Salad. Our tastings gave us a newfound appreciation for turmeric. In recipes, we typically combine it with other bold spices, but when we were able to home in on just the turmeric, we found that many samples were warm and “zippy,” some had a “piney” lavor, and others were “vegetal” and “grassy.” We also took a closer look at curcumin, which, in addition to being responsible for turmeric’s purported health beneits, is the source of its bright orange hue. (It has little bearing on lavor.) Three manufacturers told us that their turmeric contains between 3.6 and 5 percent curcumin; the others declined to comment. Our top two products contain about 5 percent curcumin. The winner of our tasting, Frontier Co-Op Ground Turmeric, stood out in a crowd of good options thanks to its strong “loral,” “earthy,” and “gingery” notes. For the complete tasting results, go to CooksIllustrated.com/jun18. –Kate Shannon
Seeds: Toasty, soft, citrus lavor reminiscent of leaves but with more “perfumy” hints of peppery spice
Leaves: Floral, herbal, bright, grassy, slightly peppery
RECOMMENDED
Roots: Slightly sweet, citrusy, and vegetal
FRONTIER CO-OP Ground Turmeric $3.99 for 1.9-oz jar ($2.10 per oz) Minimum of 5% COMMENTS: Our winner had a hint of the “warm,” moderate heat that we associate with ginger and cinnamon. Both in warm milk and in turmeric chicken salad, it was “aromatic” and “earthy.”
Stems: Similar in lavor to leaves but more potent
PRICE:
Pancake Mix-In Strategy We don’t suggest stirring fruit, chocolate chips, or nuts directly into thick pancake batters, such as that for our Easy Pancakes (page 13). This will overmix the batter, compromising the pancakes’ height and texture. Instead, add items (cut into ½-inch pieces) immediately after portioning the batter into the skillet. The batter will partially surround the add-ins during cooking. –L.L.
MORTON & BASSETT Turmeric $6.19 for 2.4-oz jar ($2.58 per oz) 5% COMMENTS: Our second-place turmeric had a pronounced “woodsy,” “earthy” flavor with a pleasant “bitter” finish. That bitterness was balanced nicely with a strong “aromatic” and “floral” quality. PRICE:
CURCUMIN:
Buying and Trimming a Side of Salmon A side of salmon—that is, a single illet that runs the length of the ish—typically weighs between 4 and 5 pounds. Most of the illet is uniformly thick and will cook evenly; however, the tail end tapers, so we prefer to trim of that portion if the illet weighs more than the recipe calls for. For our Roasted Whole Side of Salmon recipe on page 7, look for a 4-pound piece that is relatively uniform in thickness. Ideally, your ishmonger will remove the tail portion for you, but you can easily do it yourself with a sharp knife. We also recommend trimming of the belly fat, which is a heavily marbled strip that runs most of the length of the illet. If you trim the salmon yourself, save the excess for making salmon cakes or gravlax. –A.J. COOK’S
ILLUSTRATED
28
DON’T MIX THE MIX-INS Add them in the skillet.
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE
CURCUMIN:
