OTB BUCKET LIST: Over the Bridge to Balboa Park

The Soul of San Diego: Balboa Park

By Clyde Van Arsdall IV Photos by Evgeny Yorobe

Built for the 1915 Panama California Exposition the Botanical Building is one of the largest lath structures in the world.

Balboa Park is a cultural Disneyland that permeates every aspect of growing up in San Diego. The park helped to define many of us with countless field trips which opened our minds to science, aviation, history and the arts. Let us not forget the play structures, a grand carousel and the most impressive zoo in the entire world. As we age, the park may temporarily fade from thought. The occasional pass under the Cabrillo Bridge or a distant shot of the California Tower presiding over the park serve to remind that the park is always there, waiting for our return. Life gets busy with the responsibilities of adulthood, a career, marriage and possibly a family. Then, suddenly, out of nowhere we are back hosting playdates for our children. It is the zoo and field trips all over again. This time it is different for us. While our kids are discovering the magic we found as children, as adults we notice the architecture, the culture and history of the park itself. It is not just an educational destination; it is also, quite simply, just a kickass park. Exotic trees and plants, endless trails, enchanted gardens, sweeping views and ethereal sounds. It is not just for children — the park is for all of us.

This majesty did not happen by chance. Two World’s Fairs were responsible for so much of the breathtaking architecture. These major events were also instrumental in defining who we are as San Diegans and how we wanted the world to view us. Balboa Park is a major reason we are considered America’s finest city. However, the park is not made of amazing buildings alone. The landscape of the park rivals the architecture. Hills and valleys, wideopen spaces, groves of trees and gardens abound. No surprise, a canvas such as this had to have an artist. A visionary like no other, a rock star of sorts, the kind of person that knew how to leave a lasting impression. This person of course is Kate Sessions, the mother of Balboa Park.

There is a line from Ray Bradbury’s “Fahrenheit 451” that states, “Everyone must leave something behind when he dies, my grandfather said. A child or a book a painting or a house a wall built or a pair of shoes made. Or a garden planted.” Lucky for us, Kate Sessions did just that and the gardens she planted can be seen all over San Diego and Coronado. Miss Sessions had her first nursery here on the island and a flower shop at the Hotel del Coronado. Her touches can be seen all over Coronado. Canopies of lush purple flowers belonging to the many Jacaranda trees. She may not have planted all of them, but she introduced the Jacaranda to San Diego as well as hundreds of other species that we know and love today. She is responsible for a lot of the beauty we take for granted, the crown jewel of which is Balboa Park.

In 1882, she contracted with the city of San Diego to plant 100 trees a year in Balboa Park and 300 additional trees in San Diego for 10 years. In exchange, she received 30 acres in the park to use for her nursery. The streets that intersect the park from Hillcrest to downtown are all named after trees thanks to Kate. She helped landscape so much of the park that the two are inseparable.

The park is free, and it is available pandemic or not. Step into Miss Sessions’ shoes and take a walk. The Balboa Park Gardens loop covers 1.4 miles and quite a few of the many gardens as well as other points of interest. The Alcazar Garden was patterned after the garden at Alcazar Castle in Seville, Spain. The Cactus Garden dates to 1935 and is one of Kate Sessions’ many contributions. Built in 1915, the Botanical Building and Lily Pond is one of the largest and most beautiful lath structures in the world. From the Memorial Rose Garden to Palm Canyon, there are seventeen gardens in all. The Morton Bay Fig Tree in

The Lilly pond connects El Prada to the Botanical building in Balboa Park.

the park is over a century old and a magnificent giant. The tree has been fenced off since 1989 but a new deck and fence are nearing completion — a must see while you are there.

There is a visitors’ center in the House of Hospitality, but most points of interest and trails can be found online. Keep your ears open — it is not just the sights but the sounds that make it magical. Bell-like tones can be heard from the carillon player located in the tower at the Museum of Us, formerly known as the Museum of Man. Visit or simply listen for the Spreckels Organ Pavilion. John D. and Adolph Spreckels donated the breathtaking pavilion and organ to the City of San Diego in 1915 for the Panama-California Exposition. The architecture is stunning, and the concerts are free.

Picnics were made for this park. Enjoy some of the best views in San Diego. Daydream under one of her many trees. Spend time with the family, go on a date or just take some much-needed alone time. There are few places in San Diego more idyllic for this refreshing past time. Pick up some food from your favorite restaurant. There has never been an easier time for takeout. Bring food from home; picnics are not just for summer Promenade Concerts in town. All you need is a blanket and a lazy afternoon. The park will provide everything else: endless trails, stunning scenery and relaxing sounds. Culture and beauty lurk around every corner. The park is not only the epicenter of San Diego, it is also the glue that binds us all as San Diegans.

There is a wealth of information

Full moon rising over the California Tower.

about Balboa Park and Kate Sessions. Two sources that may be of interest: an article titled “Influencer: Kate Sessions,” for Hidden San Diego by Jessica Johnson, and “The San Diego World’s Fairs and Southwestern Memory, 1880-1940,” a thought-provoking book written by CHS alumni Matt Bokovoy. The work takes a deeper look into how the two world fairs laid the groundwork for our collective Southwestern identity. Balboa Park was designed to let the world know who we are, but more importantly, it continues to help nurture and shape us into who we will become.

You are invited to dig deep into Balboa Park and all it has to offer.

• Clyde Van Arsdall is a third generation Coronado local, a chef and storyteller. For more stories and follow- ups to his articles go to www.oliveavenuesupperclub.com.

• Evgeny Yorobe is a local San Diego photographer who skillfully captures the beauty of his hometown of San Diego. Evgeny's art is available for purchase at www.sandiego-landscapes.com or (858) 467-0952.

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