FOOD: Clyde Van Arsdall IV shops Farmers’ Markets here and in San Diego

To Market

Be smart, think fresh, buy local

Story by Clyde Van Arsdall IV Photos by Georgia Chacos

Well before a farmers market comes into sight, the smells emanating from the action alert you to its presence. The aroma of coffee roasting and exotic foods cooking over an open flame entice would-be shoppers. Upon arrival, the ethereal fragrance of freshly cut flowers enters the mix.

Your eyes dart from one stall to the next, taking in the brightly colored mosaic of fruits and vegetables. It is always a good idea to have a game plan. When everything looks this good, you can buy or spend too much in a heartbeat. Is shopping at the farmers’ market worth investing your time and money? A resounding yes, for a lot of reasons. Fruits and vegetables are picked just hours before markets open, assuring the flavors are fresh and bright.

These fruits are sweeter because they have higher sugar content; ripening on a tree instead of a truck or train yields delicious results.

In Defense of Food, Michael Pollan’s must-read book, asks us all to “shake the hand that feeds you.” Once you have met the farmers, don't just say hello, ask them questions. They grew the produce you’re buying; they can tell you all about their growing practices and might even have some good cooking tips. There are over 6,000 farms in San Diego County.

Purchasing local products strengthens the local economy while decreasing the demand for transportation from outlying areas. When you support farmers' markets, you Former Hotel Del Tennis Director Ben Press c. 2000sare creating a community around food.

to Market

Bill Daleo standing alongside his fruit and vegetable bus in Coronado. Date unknown. Coronado Historical Association Collection.

Mary Hillebrecht has run Coronado’s Farmers Market for over 30 years.

So yes, it's the right thing to do and a solid investment. You should feel satisfied that you are doing your part to make the world a better place. For me, these markets are where I find the good stuff. Things like giant artichokes with globes the size of a baby's head; exotic citrus in the form of a buddha's hand; a mushroom variety called Lion’s Mane, from the Mindful Mushrooms stand, that looks and tastes like crab meat. The look and taste of these magical fungi are otherworldly, and the list of fun finds is endless. There is, however, way more to discover than fruits or vegetables: coffee roasters, artists, food vendors and other hidden gems are everywhere you look.

If you haven't explored your local farmers' markets, then you need to put a trip on your shortlist of things to do. There is a longstanding market here on the island and a few others just a stone’s throw away. They all have their own unique vibe and offer very different experiences.

We have come a long way from the produce bus that used to service Coronado in the ’70s. The sound of Bill Daleo’s bell had mothers running like kids to an ice cream truck. He drove a converted school bus that roamed the streets in town selling “quality fruits and vegetables.” Bill would park at the end of each block and ring his bell, announcing his arrival. My mother and so many of our neighbors would climb on the bus and shop all the wonderful farm fresh things he had to offer. Lucky for us, in the late ’80s, we got a farmers market of our own — I am not sure Bill’s bus would be allowed these days.

Coronado is by far the most convenient farmers' market. It takes place on Tuesday afternoons down by the shops at the Ferry Landing. It is small in size but packs a punch. Run by Mary Hillebrecht for the past 30 someodd years, this market is lean and mean. Mary, whose family has had a farm in Escondido since 1924, is a vendor as well. Mary’s oranges are far from ordinary; you have to taste them to believe how good they are. The company of Harry and David even contacted her to use her oranges, but unfortunately, her supply couldn't meet their demand. Their loss means more for us. Mary told me that most vendors have been with the Coronado market since the beginning. These farmers become trusted allies that provide the best quality products for you and your family. After talking with Mary and looking

Tulips from Vengas Creek Roses at Coronado’s Farmers’ Market

Great Maple’s “Famous Pickle Mary,” A great way to prepare for the Hillcrest Market.

Fresh Berries at Hillcrest Farmers Market Romanesco cauliflower hillcrest farmers’ market. Chestnut mushrooms

up her operation in Escondido, The Farm Stand, I will be heading up there for pumpkins and a Christmas tree for the holidays. These relationships are unique and should be cherished. On a recent trip, I purchased the most amazing daffodils from Vengas Creek Roses; the prices are more than fair, and the flowers last longer than any I have bought elsewhere. I also bought tomatoes, baby heirloom carrots and varietal radishes from Validiva. Carlsbad-based, this farm has been going strong for 40 years and at the Coronado market for over 30 years. Farm fresh eggs, berries and microgreens, their offerings are outstanding. If you can’t make a meal from what they are selling, give me a call. I would be happy to help you shop and cook something that will make you and your family smile.

The Coronado Certified Farmers Market is located on 1st Street & B and is held every Tuesday from 2:30 p.m. - 6 p.m.

Hillcrest is a farmers’ market with which I have a love-hate relationship. It is one of my favorites, as well as one of the biggest, and there is so much variety. In addition to fresh produce, artisans and food vendors abound. The downside is a lack of parking.

To solve my parking woes, I make an 8 a.m. reservation at the restaurant, Great Maple, right across the street. The market doesn't open until 9 a.m., so parking is a breeze; I park in the designated lot next to the market and enjoy brunch while the vendors are setting up. Sipping on one of their signature Bloody Marys I make my market list. I am not going to lie; I do experience a feeling of schadenfreude when I see the suckers circling for parking as I stroll across the street to commence shopping. The only downside to my Great Maple parking hack is that I am already sated when I hit the market.

The sights and smells of everything cooking will drive you bonkers. If it were not for a full stomach, I would spend half my time deciding what to eat and drink. Front-loading with brunch helps me concentrate on the shopping list at hand. Just to make sure all the senses are engaged, the market has a

Fresh cut flowers being made into a bouquet, Little Italy, Farmers’ Market.

host of musicians that play throughout the day.

The Hillcrest Farmers Market, located at 3960 Normal Street, is held every Sunday, 9 a.m.-2 p.m.

Little Italy is by far one of the most stunning locations of any of the markets close by. Situated in the heart of Little Italy, the possibilities are endless.

Parking can be a challenge, but there are public lots that surround the action. If you are willing to pay $15-20 for a spot in a public lot, there’s no need to wake up early to find parking. Ten o'clock in the morning is a sweet spot for me. I can shop for an hour, then be the first in line for one of the many lunch spots outside the market in Little Italy.

On a recent trip to the Mercato, I found that fruits and vegetables are not the only reason to head to the market. I woke up craving a Cubano sandwich, a good version of which I hadn't had in years. I remembered how insane the Cubano King’s booth smelled last time it was at the market, so off we went to seek out a couple of pressed sandwiches. Once at the market, we made a beeline for Cuba, but we got distracted by the sweet smell of oysters roasting over an open flame. Captain Jack’s booth had oysters on the half-shell cooking on the grill, topped with garlic butter, parsley and parmesan cheese. The smell and the sound of them sizzling was too much. Before we knew it, a dozen of those bad boys had slipped out of their shells and into our mouths. We then picked up our sandwiches for our afternoon sailing trip. My girlfriend made it clear that she wasn't leaving the market without her favorite samosas from Masala Cottage — after a long day on the water she wasn't going to cook dinner. While on our way to our Indian delights, the temptation to buy all the wonderful things on display was real. Luckily we stuck to the task; this trip was all about picking food up for lunch and dinner, as we had no plans to cook that weekend. The samosas didn't disappoint. The hardest thing was choosing from the wide selection of golden fried pyramids stuffed with exotic flavors. It was time to head out, but it seemed a shame not to use all the time on our parking space, so we found a seat at the bar of Ironside. There are hooks on the stools for your market bags. The Bloody Marys come with a choice of an oyster on the half

The Incredible Hulk” an oyster on the half shell topped with avocado, Ironsides. Cubano Kings, Cuban sandwiches, Little Italy Farmers’ Market.

Top picture: Oysters roasting on the grill, Captain Jack’s. Little Italy Farmers’ Market.

The abundance of farm-fresh vegetables is endless.

shell or a peel & eat shrimp. The chowder fries blew our minds and warmed our souls, capping off one of the best trips to the market in recent history. We not only had a drink and a couple of fun snacks, but those Cuban sandwiches ended up being some of the best I had had in years. The market entertained us and the goodies we bought kept us happy for the rest of the day.

The Little Italy Mercato Farmers Market is located on 600 Date Street Saturdays from 8 a.m.-2 p.m. and Wednesdays from 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m.

Whether you are shopping for farm-fresh produce, tree-ripened fruit, arts, crafts or prepared dishes from around the world, you can find it all at your local farmers' markets. Something about this food community just feels and tastes right. This, for me, is a missing piece of the life puzzle we are all struggling to complete. As Mary’s sister said in her pitch for the Farm Stand, be smart, think fresh and buy local.

• Clyde Van Arsdall is a third-generation Coronado Local, chef, and storyteller. For more stories and follow-ups to his articles go to oliveavenuesupperclub.com.

Helpful Market Tips:

• Parking is not a problem on the island but elsewhere it can be challenging so plan accordingly. Early arrival Hillcrest, paid parking Little Italy. • Bags are not essential, as most vendors provide plastic bags, but avoid plastic and bring a tote that you can throw over your shoulder. • Coolers are great to have in the car to keep everything fresh. • Money: I always bring cash, as I only bring what I want to spend, but most vendors have Venmo or a credit card reader. • Plan for success: Why are you going? Do you have a meal or two in mind? If so, bring a shopping list. • Walk the market first. It is hard not to just start buying, but resist if you can. Walk the market first, take everything in. With the larger markets, there are a fair number of vendors selling similar items. By checking things out first you will avoid buyer's remorse. • Don't leave without flowers. These are the best prices in town. Bringing flowers into your home is a true elixir for the soul.