FOOD: Clyde Van Arsdall IV passes on the secrets for serving rice

Rice

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By Clyde Van Arsdall IV

Rice: each serving has at least 2,000 reasons to like it. Fluffy, sticky, fragrant, crunchy and delicious are all descriptors for these tiny grains in their many forms. Recent discoveries in Korea estimate that rice cultivation dates as far back as 15,000 years. It is the primary crop and food staple of more than half the world’s population. Rice has to be doing something right — how could 3.5 billion people be wrong? When I told friends and family I was writing this article, many of them admitted they were terrible at cooking rice. These seemingly simple grains are more elusive and complex than they may appear. There are a few factors that can lead to failure. Once you know what those are, they are easy to remedy. Rice is the main ingredient in so many of our favorite dishes: paella, risotto, pilaf, sushi, the list is endless. There is a rice dish for everyone, and anyone should be able to cook rice with confidence. While it isn’t true for everything, size matters when it comes to rice. There are three main types: long, medium and short, referring to their grain size. Sometimes it isn't just the size of the grain, it's what you do with it. These different grain sizes, in addition to the cooking method, help determine the characteristics of rice in its cooked form. The shorter the rice, the starchier and more sticky it will be when it’s cooked. If I am simply cooking a pot of white rice, long-grain is my go-to. There are a lot of varieties of long-grain rice out there, so how do you choose one that is right for you? I will

break down the qualities of some popular varieties and share with you one that you may not know about. There are approximately 40,000 varieties of rice, so we are merely going to scratch the surface.

If your idea of perfect rice is dry, fluffy grains that remain distinct and won't stick to your hands or utensils, then long-grain is what you are looking for. Besides the standard American white long-grained rice, there are many other varieties. Two of the most popular are basmati and jasmine.

Basmati from India and jasmine from Thailand share some similarities but they do have their differences. Both are considered fragrant, or aromatic, varieties. They both share a popcorn-esque aroma. However, basmati is nuttier, while jasmine has a more floral scent. Basmati benefits from aging, as the nutty quality intensifies with age. Jasmine rice is more desirable closer to harvest, as it loses some of its floral quality over time. Basmati is firmer and drier when cooked, while jasmine tends to be softer and more luscious. Helpful Hint: Basmati is best when soaked for at least 30 minutes after washing and prior to cooking. This helps soften the rice, which hardens a bit during the aging process. Buying rice that has been imported is not always advisable, as some countries do not adhere to the same growing or processing standards we have here in the U.S. Lundberg is a great brand that produces both these varieties and so many more. They are a California company that farms organically. This brand costs a bit more, but it’s worth it. You can find Lundberg products at most local markets.

A bowl of dirty rice

A bag of Carolina Gold Rice and ingredients for dirty rice

Carolina Gold is my favorite variety of long-grain rice. Grown in South Carolina, this heirloom variety was on the verge of extinction. Thanks to a recent revival and companies like Anson Mills, Carolina Gold is making a comeback. This is how they describe this magical variety: “The grandfather of longgrain rice in the Americas, Carolina Gold is delicate non-aromatic rice with chameleon starch properties that allow it to produce fluffy, individual grains; creamy risotto; or sticky Asian-style rice depending on how it’s cooked… Carolina Gold rice has a clean, sweet mouthfeel superior to modern long-grain rice.” I love the versatility, the consistency, and most of all the flavor. I purchase this rice online and pay a pretty penny for it. For me, there is no going back — everyone I cook this rice for loves it. Note: Carolina Gold rice and many other great products can be purchased online at ansonmills.com

Medium-grain rice is a type I don't find myself using a lot. That is, unless I am making risotto. Arborio, short-grain rice, is what I used to make risotto with. This was until I discovered carnaroli. This medium-grained variety is known as the “king” or “caviar” of risotto rice. It gets this distinction because it produces the creamiest risotto while the grains still maintain their shape. If you want to try carnaroli rice for yourself, it can be purchased at Buona Forchetta’s market, or simply grab a table and they will be happy to cook a bowl for you.

Calrose is a variety that is popular here in the Golden State; you see it everywhere. It was developed by Chinese immigrants around the time of the gold rush. The “Cal” in Calrose stands for California. Even though it is medium-grain rice, this variety is a bit more sticky and often used as a less expensive option for sushi rice.

Short-grain rice is known for its sticky, starchy clumps. One example of this is Japanese short-grain used for sushi rice. The clumping quality makes it easier to eat with your hands or chopsticks. I like making short-

grain rice any time I know we as a family are using chopsticks. Short-grained varieties are very popular in Asia for this reason. Not all short-grains get sticky and clumpy. Bomba rice from Spain becomes creamy when cooked slowly. It does this while still maintaining some distinct grains. This makes bomba rice ideal for paella. I discovered bomba rice when shopping at an amazing Spanish market called Pata Negra in Pacific Beach. I have been catering paella parties for years using arborio rice from Italy as it was readily available. Once I discovered bomba rice, it was a game-changer. This rice is literally grown for paella. It is rich, creamy and absorbs a lot of liquid. If you plan to make paella, head to Pata Negra, as they have everything you will need, or give me a call — I can cook paella for up to 50 people right in your backyard.

Note: Pata Negra Market, 1657 Garnet Ave, San Deigo, CA 92109

Risotto, paella and sushi are all fun to make, but they are anything but basic. These dishes are complex and hard to perfect, so let’s start by mastering a simple pot of white rice.

As a young man fresh out of cooking school, I was asked to make a chef a simple pot of rice. This was my test of entrance into his kitchen. There was no rice cooker insight. The gauntlet had been thrown down; failure would certainly be a sticky embarrassment. Lucky for me, I grew up in a southern household where rice reigned supreme. My mother had taught me how to cook a perfect pot of rice without the use of weight or measure. I picked up the gauntlet and rose to the challenge.

When preparing rice, the first thing to figure out is how much to cook. One cup of uncooked rice will yield 3 cups of cooked rice. The minimum amount of rice you can cook and still get good results is 2 cups. So, if you’re doing the minimum, you will yield 6 cups of cooked rice. Don’t ask me why less than 2 cups won’t work, it just won't. On the other end of the spectrum, I don't cook more than 4 cups at a time unless I am using a rice cooker. When cooking rice on the stovetop, it seems to have a diminishing return when you try to cook more than 4 cups at a time. You have your rice portioned out, so now what?

To rinse or not to rinse, that is the question. If you are looking for your rice to be light and fluffy with distinct grains, it is nobler to rinse and rinse thoroughly. I believe not washing your rice, or not washing it thoroughly enough, is the number one reason for failure. Put the dry rice in a large bowl and place it under running water while agitating the grains with your hands. The water will become cloudy with the starch. Drain and repeat; continue until the water no longer appears cloudy. I find that with my favorite Carolina Gold rice, this can take as many as five rinses. Note: if you are cooking risotto or paella, or want your grains to clump and stick, then don’t rinse as you will lose the starch needed for the desired effect. Now that your rice is clean, and the starch is removed, how best to cook it?

The easiest way to prepare rice is with a good rice cooker. Not all rice cookers are created equal — you want one with multiple settings for different types of rice. I owned a top-of-the-line Zojirushi model for years. If you have the storage space and cook a lot of rice, this is a true luxury. I do cook a lot of rice, but simply don’t have room for another gadget so I follow my mother’s instructions and knock it out on the stovetop. All you need is a thick-bottomed 4 to 6-quart saucepan with a tight-fitting lid and your index finger. Put the rice in the bottom of the pot and place the tip of your finger on the top of the rice like you are pointing at it. Fill the water up to your first knuckle. That will give you the two to one ratio of water to rice you need for cooking. I have tested this method and it works. I included a recipe that measures everything out in case you are skeptical.

I know why so many people around the world love these grains. The varieties and recipes are endless. My favorite dish growing up was a southern staple called dirty rice. All it takes is a skillet, a few simple ingredients, and a pot of white rice. My family loves this dish, and I hope you’ll give the included recipe a try.

Note: I have written two additional articles about rice dishes in past issues: a recipe for paella in an article titled “A Taste of Seaside Spain,” February 2021, and a recipe for Hopping John in an article titled “Southern Tradition,” December 2019. You can find these online at Crown City Magazine (https:// crowncitymagazine.com/).

• Clyde Van Arsdall is a third-generation Coronado local, chef and storyteller. For more stories and follow-ups to his articles go to oliveavenuesupperclub.com.

Wash rice thoroughly. Add butter and salt to the pot before cooking. Boil rice until water disappears and sinkholes form.

White Rice (absorption method)

Sybil Van Arsdall 1. Rinse the rice (3 to 5 times until the water runs clear). 2. Add 2 parts water and 1 part rice to a large pot. Minimum of two cups, maximum of 4 (try the finger method of measure). 3. I like to add a pinch of salt and a tablespoon of butter. If I have a sprig of thyme I throw that in as well. I keep slices of ginger and sections of lemongrass in my freezer. If I am making something with an Asian flair I throw a little bit of each into the rice instead of thyme. While these things are optional they add a touch of flavor and fragrance to the pot. 4. Bring the water to a boil and allow to cook with the lid off until the water has been absorbed into the rice. There will be no more water on the surface of the rice and small sinkholes will form on the surface of the rice. 5. Turn the heat off and cover with a tight-fitting lid. If your lid does not fit tightly, put a piece of foil over the opening of the pot and then the lid. 6. Let sit for 20 minutes. 7. Try not to peek until the end of the cooking time so the steam doesn't escape. Whatever you do, don't mix the rice while it's cooking — this will lead to gummy rice. 8. Fluff the rice with a fork. Once cooked, remove the lid and use a fork, not a spoon, to break the rice up. This will help the rice maintain its individual grains. 9. Enjoy.

Dirty Rice

Clyde Van Arsdall Ingredients • 1/2 cup chicken livers, or about 6 to 8 livers (about 4 1/2 oz.) This is old school. I stopped adding these because it freaked the kids out.

It's really good, but honestly, I don't miss them. • 2 tablespoons canola oil or skip the oil and add six slices of chopped up bacon, this will provide its own grease for the rest of the sauteing. • 6 ounces of ground pork or any of your favorite sausages. I just remove the casing. We use hot Italian sausage a lot, but traditionally andouille is used. • 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt • 1/2 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning

Sausage sauteing for dirty rice. Vegetables for dirty rice.

• 1 1/2 cups chicken stock, divided • 1 cup finely chopped yellow onion (about 1 small onion) • 1 cup finely chopped celery (about 3 stalks) • 1/2 cup finely chopped red bell pepper (about 1 small bell pepper) • 2 tablespoons finely chopped jalapeño chile (about 1 chile). I skip this when cooking for my children. It is easy enough to add hot sauce (Red Rooster brand) to the final product. • 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic (about 3 garlic cloves) • 3 cups cooked and cooled long-grain white rice (Carolina

Gold if you have it) • 1/4 cup chopped scallions (about 2 scallions) • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Directions

• Before you get started

Laissez le bons temps rouler, let the good times roll. Put on some zydeco or cajun music; pour yourself a drink. • Let's get cooking

Note: If using chicken livers, process in a food processor until very smooth, about 45 seconds.

Heat canola oil in a large skillet over medium-high; add ground pork (sausage) and chicken liver puree and cook, stirring to combine, until browned, about 4 minutes. If using bacon, just throw bacon and sausage into the pan — no need for canola oil.

The bacon will provide plenty of its own grease as it cooks. Stir in salt and Old Bay. Add 1/4 cup of the chicken stock; stir and scrape the bottom of the skillet to loosen any browned bits.

These brown bits, or fond, as the

French call them, are where the flavor is at. It is what makes the rice “dirty.” Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until all liquid has evaporated and some browned bits (fond) are again accumulating on the bottom of the skillet, 5 to 6 minutes.

Add onion, celery, bell pepper, jalapeño and garlic; cook, stirring often until vegetables are softened, about 6 minutes. • Finish this dish

Crumble rice, making sure to separate the grains as much as possible. Add rice, scallions, parsley and remaining 1 1/4 cups stock to skillet; stir to combine all ingredients. Cook, stirring often until most of the chicken stock has evaporated and the mixture is heated for 3 to 4 minutes. • Serve with either Red Rooster,

Crystal or Tabasco hot sauce.

These are the holy trinity of hot sauces in Louisiana and are divine on this rice dish. My favorite is Red Rooster; I hope you give them a try.