FOOD: Clyde Van Arsdall IV shares ideas for making the best of your Thanksgiving leftovers

Thanksgiving Leftovers

Wondering what to do with all the good stuff?

Story and photos by Chef Clyde Van Arsdall

Turkey day generates more leftovers than any other holiday. You need to be creative if you don't want to eat Thanksgiving dinner again the next day.

Even the word leftover is unappealing, but there is not a more palatable synonym. It is the best way to describe what you can't eat the first go around. I have to admit, my track record isn't excellent when trying to finish what is left behind. If you hate to waste food, there is an alternative. Instead of simply reheating what is left over for another round of the meal you just ate, use what you have to create something new.

We have all made our favorite turkey sandwich with gravy, stuffing and cranberry sauce. If you want to try something new, may I suggest some comforting dishes that can use the leftover turkey? Two dishes I adore are Turkey Divan, a riff on the once hugely popular chicken divan, and the other a classic turkey pot pie.

In the early part of the twentieth century, Chicken Divan was the signature dish at the Divan Parisien restaurant in the Chatham hotel in New York City. The menu item was wildly popular, so people started making it at home; by the 1950s, Chicken Divan was a household staple.

Chicken — or in this case, Turkey — Divan is a casserole consisting of broccoli and turkey topped with a rich and creamy cheese sauce and then baked until hot and bubbly. This dish is great served over mashed potatoes, but rice is an excellent alternative if those are in short supply. A casserole may sound a bit old school, but trust me, I am not the only one who loves this dish. I owned a gourmet food shop some years back, and this dish flew off the shelves, a favorite of both young and old.

Turkey Divan served over mashed potatoes

Turkey pot pie is a simple variation of chicken pot pie originating in Greece. I had hoped the dish had roots in England, as my Greek girlfriend doesn't need any more reason to feel superior to me. The Greeks filled open pastry shells called artocreas with cooked meat. The Romans added the top crust, making it an actual pie. The pie's migration from Rome is not hard to figure out, as the Romans' desire for world domination kept them moving.

Turkey pot pie follows the same loose rules as any other pie. There is a filling, which in this case is cooked turkey, vegetables and gravy. Then, there is a top crust of some sort. A bottom crust is optional; if you use one, I suggest a mealy instead of a flaky pie crust. I skip this step because it requires one to make two separate crusts, as the bottom crust will get soggy if you use the same crust as the top. I simply fill a crock or pie plate with the filling and top it with one of a few different options. The first option is to use your leftover mashed potatoes, which makes it into a bit of a Shepherd’s Pie. The other option is a flaky pie crust, which is the most traditional. My favorite is puff pastry as it comes ready to go. All you have to do is cut it to size, and you are off to the races. Not only is puff pastry easy, but it is also flaky and buttery. Grab your favorite pot pie recipe, or simply look one up. Substitute the chicken for turkey, and when making the sauce, use the turkey stock you made in place of the chicken stock. Even better, if you have leftover gravy, use that in place of the sauce.

These two dishes are showstoppers. I shop for extra ingredients while I am doing my shopping for Thanksgiving. Planning allows me to avoid the supermarket and relax at home while I cobble them together after the holiday. A good Thanksgiving is when I have enough leftovers to make both dishes. I hope you treat yourself and your loved ones to one of these timeless comfort foods. Happy Thanksgiving from my family to yours!

• Clyde Van Arsdall IV is a third-generation Coronado local, chef and storyteller. For more stories and follow-ups to articles, go to oliveavenuesupperclub.com.

Turkey Divan

Clyde Van Arsdall III (Dad’s)

Ingredients

• 2 pounds cooked turkey, cut into bite-sized pieces • 2 large heads of broccoli, cut into florets • ½ cup of butter plus 1 Tablespoon for rubbing inside of the dish • ½ cup of flour • 2 cups of chicken or turkey stock (great way to use your turkey bones) • 2 cups of whole milk • 6 Tablespoons of sherry • ¼ teaspoon of freshly grated nutmeg • 1 cup of shredded parmesan • 1.5 cups of sliced almonds • 1 cup of heavy cream • 1 teaspoon each salt and pepper

Instructions:

• Preheat oven to 375 degrees. • Cut turkey into bite-sized pieces. I like to use both white and dark meat. • Blanch broccoli florets. Cook broccoli in boiling water for 2-3 minutes, then immediately cool them off in an ice bath. Drain and set aside. • Rub the inside of the 4-quart casserole dish with the additional 1 tablespoon of butter. • In a saucepan, melt the ½ cup of butter over medium heat. Add flour and cook while stirring for one to two minutes. • Gradually pour in stock and milk. Cook until very thick, about 10 minutes. Add salt and pepper, sherry, nutmeg and half of the cheese; stir until the cheese melts. Remove from heat and let cool. • Arrange broccoli in the prepared dish in a single layer. Sprinkle with remaining cheese. Arrange chicken evenly over the top and sprinkle with almonds. • In a large bowl, beat the heavy cream into soft peaks; fold into cheese sauce. Pour sauce over the turkey. • Bake until golden brown and bubbling, about thirty minutes. A sheet tray under the casserole dish is wise to catch any dips. • Serve with mashed potatoes or white rice.

Turkey Divan is all about the bubbly cheese sauce.

Turkey Stock

Clyde Van Arsdall IV

Quantity will vary based on the amount of liquid used and the loss due to evaporation. In my experience, you get at least 3-4 quarts.

Ingredients:

1 turkey carcass 2 cups of chopped onions 1 cup of chopped celery 1 cup of chopped carrots 1 bundle of herbs (thyme, rosemary, sage) 1 bay leaf 1 1 jalapeño pepper cut in half (optional)

Instructions:

• Place ingredients in a pot and cover with cold water. • Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn heat to medium and simmer for 4 hours. • Strain out solids.

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