Crewel Aari by Crsnidhi

Crewel Aari Treasure Of The Valley

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Crewel Aari- Treasure Of The Valley Faculty Mentored by: Ms. Nousheen Qazi Documented by: Bulbul Anand Bushra Billal Chelikani R Srinidhi Rajneel Rungta Riya singh Shubham Gupta Sumaiya Alam

Department of Fashion Design ,2021

National Institute Of Fashion Technology, Srinagar 5

Acknowledgement On the very outset of the report we would like to extend a sincere and heartfelt gratitude towards all the people who have helped us in this endeavour. Without their constant and active guidance, help and encouragement, we would not have made headway in this project. We would like to extend our heartfelt and sincere thanks to Ms. Nousheen qazi, assistant professor,fashion design,srinagar, for her fine mentorship, support and guidance to accomplish this assignment. We would like to thank the faculty members mr. Yasir mir and mr. Asif amin who enlightened us with the current and substantial information about cruel ari work by being virtually present with us at all times. Our sincere thanks to all the artisans, who entertained us and helped us in getting our primary source of information during such hard times of covid-19. Our special thanks to all the seniors who helped us in obtaining the information about the craft. We extend our gratitude to NIFT,srinagar for giving us unparalleled opportunity of connecting with age old traditions and to have got us together to experience and making us aware of how beautiful is this indigenous art of embroidery in our country.

Preface This document has been prepared in partial fulfilment of the requirement for the subject craft cluster project of the programme b.Des in fashion design (sem v). The craft cluster helped us in gaining an actual insight of how the traditional crewel aari work is done in kashmir, we were expected to make a thorough report on ‘crewel aari embroidery’ which aims to create awareness about the traditional hand done embroidery. Throughout this initiative, the students were expected to become more aware of the crafts practised in kashmir and could make an attempt to bridge the gap between themselves and the artisans by interacting with them on personal level through various platforms such as whatsapp, phone calls, zoom, etc. Through this document we understood the importance of teamwork and how communication plays an vital role. It has enhanced our knowledge about the craft.

Content

12 14 16 20 25 26 28 32 38 42

Abstract Origin Background & People Geographical Location Cultural Economy Various Crafts Of Kashmir Kashida Other Embroideries Aari Embroidery Crewel Aari

48 58 60 61 62 66 70 76 78 81 82

Production Evolution of Design Motifs Significance Product Range Market Artisan Profile SWOT Initiatives Conclusion Reference

Abstract We the student of nift, srinagar have got the opportunity to work with crewel aari embroidery for our ‘craft cluster’. The purpose of the project was for us to become familiar with the tradition art of embroidery, the environment where the artisian works, the design and the motifs and the whole process of manufacturing the product till it is sold in the market. In return we tried to understand the problems that they face and as aspiring designers, taking advantage of our design knowledge, we asked and shared the current trends and technical aspects of designing. The major reason of targeting crewel ari for the cluster is to promote indian handicrafts and handloom. Unlike other clusters people of crewel aari are open to learn about new and upcoming technologies and trends while keeping the old traditions alive.

These hard-working artisans display the fine craftsmanship through the embroidery by using bright multicoloured threads with delicately crafted motifs. Through the cluster we got to know that these artisans are not only masters in the art of embroidery but also acquire the technical knowledge involved in the skills required to come to the final product. What they lack, was not proper opportunities in terms of marketing skills, exposure etc. They are fluent with the craft and the tradition has taught them this fine craft and to pass it on to the coming generations without compromising with the proper education. Nevertheless with government initiatives and their own urge to succeed has brought them to the international market and the fact that this age old craft has not died and grown and speaks volumes about their hard work and creativity.

“Paradise on Earth” Jammu & kashmir boasts a wealthy background of artwork and craft. The valley of kashmir on my own is a heaven for lifestyle enthusiasts searching ahead to witnessing various artwork & craft withinside the state. A glimpse of the state’s rich artwork & craft background may be visible of their lives. From their utensils to garments to fixtures to jewelry nearly the entirety displays the grasp capabilities and willpower of the locals toward the conventional artwork & craft in jammu & kashmir.

Nature has endowed kashmir with improbable splendor beauty and is rightly referred as “paradise on earth”. The word kashmir is derived from the historic sanskrit language and changed into known as káśmīra. The nilamata purana describes the valley’s foundation from the waters, a lake referred to as sati-saras.

Origin Background & People The kashmiri population in an ethnolinguistic group that may be in comparison with an indo-greek with their racial structure of the kashmiris. The local of kashmiri humans lives in pakistan, upper punjab and potohar in which they prepare a group and stay together. Although, kashmiri humans stay in unique parts of india they're specially accumulated withinside the valley of kashmir, doda, kishtwar and ramban thasils of jammu division. Their language is extraordinarily prompted via way of means of the sanskrit language and on the whole spoken via way of means of kashmiri muslims and kashmiri hindus. Their writing script includes arabic style. According to the sources, wazwan and their tradition is extraordinarily prompted via way of means of central asian and persian tradition. Their dance, music, cuisine, carpet weaving and koshur sufiana paperwork a widespread a part of kashmiri identity. Kashmiri tradition is specially accompanied via way of means of humans dwelling in kashmir valley and dodab of the chenab region. The valley is thought for the fine arts along with conventional boats and houseboats, handicrafts and poetry. 14

Kashmir is a stunning himalayan valley with breathtaking mountain scenery, clean lakes, lush plants and magnificent forests. The capital srinagar (1,730m) is well-known for its canals, houseboats and mughal gardens. The valley is domestic to a wealthy biodiversity along with a massive wide variety of birds species, a lot of which can be particular to kashmir. Kashmiri way of life is basically gradual paced and displays non secular diversity. Kashmiris are acknowledged to experience their track in its numerous neighborhood forms, and the conventional get dressed of each sexes is regularly pretty colourful. Kashmir has been mentioned for its pleasant arts for centuries, along with poetry and handicrafts .The exercise of islam in kashmir has heavy sufi influences, which makes it particular from orthodox sunni and shiite islam withinside the relaxation of south asia.

Geographical Location

Kashmir is a religion located within side the northwestern a part of the indian subcontinent. It consists of the indian state of jammu and kashmir in addition to the pakistani states of gilgitbaltistan and azad kashmir. The chinese areas of aksai chin and trans-karakoram also are protected in kashmir. Currently, the united nations refers to this place as jammu and kashmir.

Current Location Today, kashmir is split amongst pakistan, india and china. Pakistan controls the northwestern part, whilst india controls the imperative and southern quantities and china controls its northeastern regions. India controls the biggest part of land at 39,127 rectangular miles (101,338 sq km) whilst pakistan controls a place of 33,one hundred forty five rectangular miles (85,846 sq km) and china 14,500 rectangular miles (37,555 sq km). The kashmir vicinity has a complete region of approximately 86,772 rectangular miles (224,739 sq km) and plenty of its miles undeveloped and ruled through big mountain stages inclusive of the himalayan and karakoram stages. The vale of kashmir is positioned among mountain stages and there also are numerous big rivers within side the vicinity. The maximum populated regions are jammu and azad kashmir.

Kashmir’s C limate Kashmir lies in the northern hemisphere, has a mild climate, which is essentially described with the aid of using its geographic location, with the towering karakoram range withinside the north, pir panjal range in the south and west, and zanskar range in the east. It may be commonly defined as cool withinside the spring and autumn, moderate withinside the summer, and bloodless during the winter. Summer is typically moderate and with correct little rain, however relative humidity is commonly excessive and the nights are cool. The precipitation happens at some stage in the 12 months and no month is especially dry. The most up to date month is july (suggest minimal temperature 6°c, suggest most temperature 32°c) and the coldest are december– january (suggest minimal temperature −15°c, suggest most temperature 0°c). The recorded excessive temperature is 33°c and the recorded low is −18°c.

Cultural

Festivals Kashmir celebrates now no longer handiest muslim fairs however additionally hindu fairs like diwali and holi with outstanding enthusiasm. Tulip blooming celebrated every year draws hundreds of tourists, the shikara festival one of the latest introduced to the list.

F lora & Fauna Kashmir is resplendent with many shades of wood. The most luxurious of the kashmir bushes is the chinar that is located in the course of the valley. Mountain levels withinside the valley have dense deodar, pine and fir. Walnut, willow, almond,saffron and cider additionally upload to the wealthy flowers of kashmir. The fauna consists of hangul, ibex, snow leopard, musk deer, wolf, and leopard. The winged consists of ducks, goose, partridge, chakor, pheasant, wagtails, herons, water pigeons, warblers, and doves.

Cuisine The location gives a huge range of meals items, zaeka-e-kashmir, mostly non-vegetarian with a few wonderful vegetarian dishes are basically motivated through the conventional cuisines of the kashmiri pandits and the mughlai cuisines. Famous dishes include: tabakhmaaz, rista, damiwal korma,rogan josh, one of the signature dishes of kashmiri cuisines,gushtaba,dum aloo, pulav, noon chai and kashmiri kahwa.

Costume A conventional kurta and salwar for guys is truly known as the khan dress. Women alternatively put on salwarkameez donned with a headband known as kasaba or the taranga with the aid of using kashmiri pandit girls. In the winters, girls generally tend to put on a pheran together with a pashmina shawl, is the brilliant artwork of hand-weaving greatest cashmere wool into highlypriced pashmina shawls, scarves and accessories. The heavenly opulence and sensitive texture of pashmina with wealthy hand embroideries or complex hand weaves have been an integral part of the royal lifestyle since many centuries.

Pheran is a long garment worn both by men and women that covers the entire body up until the knees. Both men and women are known to wear the pheran, and it’s a dress even used by the kids.

The simplest supply of warmth is the kangri that’s tailored for pehrans that’s a hearthplace pot. Once you’ve got got a kangri below your pehran, the winters simply look like some other season.

Economy Kashmir’s economy is in general made from agriculture that takes area in its fertile valley areas. Rice, corn, wheat, barley, culmination and veggies are the principle plants grown in kashmir even as lumber and the elevating of farm animals additionally play a position in its financial system. In addition, small-scale handicrafts and tourism are vital to the area.

Various Crafts Of Kashmir The tremendous handicrafts of jammu and kashmir make it well-known everywhere in the world. Some form of fashionable paintings is gift nearly in the entirety in jammu and kashmir, be it embroidery at the shawls, papier-mache and metal ware and wooden work. When it comes to jammu and kashmir handicrafts, the villages of anantnag and srinagar were pretty well-known for boosting its innovative beauty. They are international well-known for carpets and wood furniture. Along with it, the vintage items encompass shahtoosh shawls and pashmina shawls. Crewel ware, brass and silver ware are different thrilling articles.

History The history of embroidery in Kashmir can be traced back to as early as the 15th century. However, it was during the Mughal rule (around 16th century) that the textile industry in Kashmir saw a major surge. The Mughal emperors are known to have patronized it. It was during this time that Kashmiri shawls and other Kashmiri garments started becoming popular around the world. Similarly, the Kashmiri embroidery too started shaping up and became an important part of various Kashmiri textiles. And since then, its demand has grown multifolds. The Kashida is one of the oldest forms of embroidery in India. It is a centuries’ old art. History tells us that Art came to Kashmir from Central Asia. It traveled with Muslim traders who entered the valley through the Silk route. It evolved with time and artisans were able to mix and match various art forms they had learned from the traders from abroad.

Kashida The kashmiri embroidery has a distinct characteristic to it - each in method and appearance. Kashida is the conventional call of kashmiri embroidery, which got here with the persians, simply because the motifs and fashion propose lots of persian influence. The paintings may be very colourful and derives its designs from factors withinside the scenic beautyof the land. This craft was completed by men and is stated to have descended from royal patronage.

Tools

Needles (Sozni work): depending at the thickness of the embroidery and the intricacy of the work, hand stitching needles among the quantity of 6 and 10 are used. Hooks (Crewel embroidery): hooks are required for crewelwork. These hooks have lengthy bodies, that could pass via tightly tied cloth making a sequence.

Raw Material Fabric – shahtoosh, pashmina, raffal, silk, cotton,wool Yarns - staple cotton wool, silk. Meer – mixture of kerosene with white or yellow powder

Process The simple tools of the craftsmen create vast expanses of intricate and detailed embroidery. Tools like the needle and hook, universal to embroidery, in the hands of the Kashmiri craftsmen thread characteristic patterns. Only two different types of stitches are used on one fabric at a time. Kashidakari is divided into many styles and techniques of embroidery. Sozni and Aari work are two of the main kinds.

Stitches Technique Kashida is general term for kashmiri embroidery, which includes other stitches as zalakdozi (chain stitch), vatachik (buttonhole stitch), talibar (work of gold). One of the outstanding feature of the embroidery is the fact that it is made with a single thread giving a flat, formalized appearance to the design. The satin stitch has been adopted to cover larger surface without pulling the cloth. It has become the variation of long and short stitch. Chain is used only in inferior places and never on expensive piece of work. The embroidery displays the same fineness on both sides so as to make the wrong side distinguishable from right and kashmiri workman has made himself adapt at this art.

Sozni Embroidery

Sozni is a fine embroidery done mostly on pashmina and high quality raffal. This type of embroidery is finely detailed and some works take over 3 years to complete. Not more than five colours are used for the sozni embroidery. The shawl is placed on a plank and rubbed with agate to smoothen the surface.

The pattern is transferred onto cloth using charcoal or coloured powder. Stem stitches are used to make patterns which are flat against the ground. Individual threads Of the warp are taken up in the stitching. The Threads are of single strand of either silk or staple. 33

Tilla Work This kind of embroidery is done using golden/silver zari (tilla) and is mostly done on pherans, sarees and shawls. The decorative thread remains only on the surface. The designs are first drawn on butter paper with small perforations as guidelines. The butter paper is placed Above the fabric. Meer is rubbed on the butter paper to transfer the designs to the fabric. The zari is stitched on using three different movements – looped stitch, straight stitch or the spiral stitch. Outlines are mostly done using the looped stitch and the filling is done with the others.

Other Embroideries

The Papier-Mache Embroidery The 3 major stitches used are the outline stitch, the stem stitch and the filling up stitch. The outlining of the entire pattern is done with yellow thread on dark fabrics, and black thread on light fabrics. The filling up is then done in a way so as to cover all the space within the outline. 36

Petit-point or Tapestry Technique This kind of embroidery is made with simple cross stitch on canvas net cloth with an open weave. (11 Ends in the wrap and 12 picks weft-wise per inch). It is believed to have taught to kashmiri craftsmen around 50 years ago by a foreigner lady. The cloth is nailed to a frame once the design is transferred from the butter paper. The frame sizes are usually 2ft x 3ft or 3ft x 5ft. In this technique, shades of particular colour are used. If a double cross stitch is employed, then a single thread is used. Double threads are also used.

Aari Embroidery As the name goes, this type is done using a hook. There are three kinds under this category - crewel stitch, chain stitch and the Aari embroidery. The technique for all three is the same. The difference lies in the materials used and the fineness of work thereby.The craftsmen makes his own hook by turning a steel rod and fitting it into a wooden handle. The thread, in hookwork, is held under the surface of the fabric to be embroidered. The hook is pushed in, along the lines of the design. There is a mark on the wooden handle. The point of the hook is always towards the right. The mark of the hook remains on top when this happens, as an indicator. ‘Zangvaitth’ is the posture wherein the embroiderers take a seat down whilst running with their knees up, against the wall. A thick cushion or a timber plank at an angle, act as backrests.

A broad border of embroidery on both ends of the shawl, with a minimum width of 3 inches, is known as ‘dordar khurd.’ Small repeated motifs make up the ‘bootidar’ design. The ‘charbadam’ pattern is a combination of four different paisley patterns. Traditional islamic and persian patterns have been adapted with a specific kashmiri flavour over time. The gulab (rose) pattern and the badam (almond) pattern are the most popular. Shawl-tarah is another name for it. The ‘sarav’ motif is another popular theme (cypress). This is a long and tapering version of the ‘badam’ form. The artisans typically utilise themes of the ‘chinar’ leaf. In the embroideries, calligraphic forms are also used.

Crewel Aari Crewel Work is a variation of Aari Kari accomplished precisely withinside the equal hook paintings technique; the most effective distinction is that the hook needle utilized in Crewel is thicker, domestically referred to as awl. Another distinction is the thread utilized in crewel or chain sew; it’s usually a thicker thread of both wool or silk to get that ambitious embellishing effect. Crewel or chain sew embroidery is generally accomplished in upholstery and material fabrics, like curtains, cushion covers, and on add-ons are baggage and clutches.

Crewel or Chain Stitch is once in a while synonymously used. But there's a mild version in the two. While Crewel is done with patches of the heritage cloth displaying a bit right here and there, there's surely no cloth patch seen in the Chain Stitch. Chain Stitch is an extra intensely laboured compared to the Crewel, and each use a white fabric as running cloth. Crewel is derived from the word “Krua” or “Clew” because of its ball of yarn. The artwork established in the twelfth century in Kashmir during the reign the Mughal Courts. The crewel embroidery was intitially done with wool and later the cloth used was linen however afterward different yarns like silk and fabrics like cotton and wool were used in the crewel embroidery.

Types of Aari Indian crewel aari embroidery is found on products like cloaks, apparel, blinds, and comforters. Like the other kind of embroidery, it doesn’t totally cover the base texture. The foundation texture turns out to be essential for the plan. The base texture can be cotton, rayon, silk, pashmina, or a mix. However, when fleece or silk aari is made for products like carpets, embroideries, inside decorations, table cloths, pad cases and seat covers, it covers each square inch of the whole base texture in lines. This kind of ari allows no texture to be uncovered. This is one of the most exceptional and excellent parts of this sort of weaving.

Individual Textile Aari Shawls are the most popular illustration of wearable Aari weaving craftsmanship. It is normally weaved on delicate cashmere fleece pashminas, with a dark foundation. Blankets and bedding are a well known approach to purchase and utilize aari. For individuals who can manage the cost of it, a room coordinating with drapes and bedding all done in high quality aari weaving, is done with extravagance. 47

Process The crewel embroidery and the chain stitch is finished with the embossed samples of floral designs. The white coloured material is used historically for this embroideryand is first washed and ironed to get a fair floor at the material to keep away from any shrinkage in future. The layout for embroidery is done before beginning with hook work. The layout is display screen imprinted on the material and lots of different stencil printing strategies also are developed. The transient printing at the material also can be finished with a pricking technique wherein the dotted define is shaped through pricking via the layout imprinted on the paper. Once the layout is fixed, the crewel embroidery is finished from centre to define the shape in velvet like finish. The body or hoop is the high requirement for this sort of embroidery because it tightens the material.

Women who practice crewel embroidery produce the crewel fabric in lengths in their homes and for which they receive the payment. These materials are weighed separately before distribution, and unused materials returned after the embroidery is completed. Payment is then calculated by the weight of the complete embroidered fabric after deducting the original weight of the stencilled fabric and returned wool. Payment is usually made according to a prearranged price range for each completed embroidery pieces. They use multiple bundles of two-ply wool dyed in numerous colours. All materials used for crewel embroidery in Kashmir are imported into the state including handloom cotton, linen, cotton velvet and wool thread. The wool is of differing qualities, one or two ply and the better-quality wool has more elasticity so can be pulled tighter without breaking to make a tighter chain stitch.

Tools The device used is a kind of pointed crochet (regionally referred to as “Aari”) and is labored on cotton, wool, silk and other fabrics. Crewel embroidery uses woolen or art-silk thread for embroidery. It is used for embroidery work on cotton, organza, velvet, linen and jute ground fabrics. The thread is passed throught the aari, hooked needle, and is always held under the cloth to be embroidered and the hook is used to tug a chain of loops, every rising from inside the preceding, to the floor of the material. There are two versions of this method; the first is used to embroider on skinny fabric inclusive of silk and nice cotton cloth, used as stoles and shawls or made into pheran, which is a loose over-garment, kurta and capes. Crewel embroidery, uses a thicker aari and is commonly executed on unbleached material; its stitches are bolder and it’s far used for embellishing yardages used as upholstery and material. In both cases, the styles are generally linear abstractions of the neighborhood plants, with the outlines worked first.

Stitches Technique

To shield the index finger of the right hand from the prick and to press the needle into the thick cloth, a thimble called nyatth is used. ‘Aksi,’ which means reflection, is a single-sided needlework motif. It is known as ‘dorukha’ when the same is done on both sides. The ‘aarikam’ chain stitch embroidery employs a specific crooked head needle to hold the staple yarn in place and pull it into a line on the fabric by a series of consistent pricks. To create a chain effect, each previous loop is held by the subsequent one.

Pattern Various embroidery styles are utilised in aari embroidery. In aari embroidered suits, naaldar (neck sample), tharidar (floral vine sample), jaame (complete embroidery) and bootidar (small florets) sample are popular. A thimble known as Nyath is worn at the index finger of the proper hand to defend it from the prick and to push the needle into the thick cloth. Families embroider collectively on shawls, rugs and different material and entire the embroidery is done while buzzing songs of Kashmir.

Motifs

Kalka

Poshdaar &Kalam

Janwardaar

Dachh

The craftsmen have changed the conventional motifs of islamic and persian have an effect on to some thing with a awesome kashmiri characteristic. The maximum famous of these are the gulab sample and the badam or almond sample. It is likewise referred to as shawl-tarah. Another normally visible motif is that of the sarav or cypress. This is much like the badam form however is lengthy and tapering. Stylised variations of the sarav also are created which has floral, intertwining and curvilinear additions. The craftsmen additionally use motifs of the chinar leaf. This is the five-pointed leaf of the chinar tree which has end up the image of boom in kashmir. Calligraphic paperwork also are used withinside the embroideries. Some of the alternative motifs which can be normally used are: - Pamposh or lotus - Sosan or iris - Dachh or vine - Sumbal / yambarzal or hyacinth and narcissus - Dainposh or pomegranate

Evolution of Designs Abstracted varieties of birds and animals also are visible withinside the current designs. Lions, rabbits, wild cats, deers, horses, bulbuls, partridges, herons, geese and so forth are maximum represented. Human figures seem withinside the styles on every occasion asked through the customers and while there’s an growing demand. Especially in topics just like the shikargah (searching ground) or the jangal-tarah (jungle scenes). The pherans historically have embroidery across the neck, the front opening, hem and on the top of the sleeves.

Significance Different fairs like diwali, holi, navaratri and different peoples fairs have over numerous years witnessed the splendor of kashida embroidered clothing donned via way of means of the ladies populace of kashmir. Besides, even conventional ceremonies and rituals may be complimented with this artwork, because it possesses the capacity to mould with any surroundings or season.

Product Range Kashida embroidery to substantially beautify shawls for the royal own circle of relatives to put on in addition to use as items the various royalties. These had been closely decorated and intricately embroidered. These shawls quickly commenced getting well-known to the various locals and citizens of kashmir and sundry variations of the shawls withinside the weight of the embroidery and the costly element of the shawls had been introduced. For centuries, it’s been extensively used and worn via way of means of ladies and men now no longer best in kashmir however additionally all around the usa and the world, bringing it a whole lot of reputation and renounce. That makes use of have additionally blotted out to readymade clothes and add-ons like bags, belts etc. The craft has additionally deployed onto domestic furnishings. Currently, some of merchandise have come withinside the marketplace which undergo the designs of kashida embroidery. These merchandise consist of bags, purses, cushion and mattress covers, carpets, curtains and plenty of more.

SHAWL Price range: Rs 4000-5000 Kashmir Box

CUSHION Price range: Rs 450 Gyawan Shop

CURTAIN Price range: Rs 1500-2000 Gyawan Shop

BAG Price range: Rs 450-1000 Gyawan Shop

KURTHI Price range: Rs 1500-2500 Kashmir Box

SHAWL Price range: Rs 2000-3000 Kashmir Box 63

Where to Buy Most family merchandise or furniture store that sell kashmiri crafts will have crewel aari products. Ensure you request the crewel or aari. There are many sites that additionally sell aari yet ensure they are solid and very much explored. Checking the Kashmir Box site may likewise help. Sale and deals sites like Amazon, Gyawan shop, kashmir boxand others can be an incredible source. At present, on Kashmir box, you might pay Rs 15002500 for a fleece aari Shawl, and Rs 500- 1000 for a cushion. Towards the finish, you can discover product range of aari that is presently available to be purchased.

Care and C leaning

Care and Cleaning and Safety Depending on the product. Wool and silk aari can be dry-cleaned and certain individual absorbing them a bath loaded with cold water to clean. Aari materials ought to consistently be permitted rolled, abundance of water delicately pushed out, and afterward permitted to air dry level, turning oftentimes. They are never to be put into a dryer.

Market Various rulers like the mughals, afghans, sikhs, and dogras occupied kashmir over the centuries. The rulers of all of those empires patronized kashida embroidery to drastically beautify shawls for the royal own circle of relatives to put on in addition to use as presents for some of the royalties. These had been closely decorated and intricately embroidered. These shawls quickly commenced getting well-known to some of the locals and citizens of kashmir and sundry variations of the shawls withinside the weight of the embroidery and the highlypriced thing of the shawls had been introduced. For centuries, it’s been extensively used and worn through ladies and men in kashmir however additionally all around the world, aari has a huge market in demand.

Current Market The use of readymade clothes and add-ons like bags, belts etc, the craft has additionally unfold onto domestic furnishings. The embroidery is used to decorate wall hangings and floor-coverings. Crewel aari embroidery has the identical effect in the worldwide marketplace as well as countrywide. Its splendor and finesse has been identified from all around the world. The fact that this embroidery has an evergreen element to it has added onto its popularity. This embroidery represents the conventional designs and works of kashmir. Due to its developing popularity, crewel aari embroidery is right here to live for a protracted time, representing the tradition of india and making its manner to the wardrobes of humans from all around the world.

Artisan Profiles

Ms. Tabassum is involved in the craft crewel aari since she was a child and has been passed down to her from generations. She is the main artisian and employs various other artisian under her mostly women. The team usually works with the traditional style of embroidery by hand and use traditional motifs such as flowers, birds, elephants etc. But to meet the current demand they have also introduced numbers, letters and cartoons done in traditional style of embroidery to add a little fun. 70

Tabasum Shafi

Profession - Business Location - Chee Anantnag Experience - 10years

With covid-19 the artisian involved with the craft crewel aari suffered a loss of work as well as monetarily but with government introducing clusters for the artisans which helps them to learn or teach a particular craft and earn money through the same. With current times new technologies and methods are practiced and machine made embroidery is also done, in ms. Tabassum’s point of view handmade is of utmost importance and cannot be compared to any machine made product. ‘They feel in order to make the product beautiful, they will always choose the art of hand done as it shared an idea of sharing love through the product and would also like the coming generations to continue with the traditional art along with proper education’.

Artisan Profiles Sameer Bhat

Profession - Business Location - Srinagar Experience - 12 years Mr. Bhat lost his father at a very young age and belongs to the fourth generation of Artisans and is involved in the craft Crewel Aari as a child. He started working as a karighar to gain experience under some head Artisian and in 2009, restarted his family business as Sameer designs and now employs over 100 Artisians, where female is more in number. The work is available both online and offline. He also got associated with NIFT Srinagar during its foundation.

He sources his raw materials from the local market in Kashmir and the production process is carried in-house from sourcing cotton balls, spinning handloom to dye and finally the embroidery done by the karighars. Till 2019, his work was developing rapidly and successfully but With the onset covid-19 affecting the whole world, these Artisans were left worse than anybody as their market being shut and dropping the demand. His bread and butter comes entirely from the craft and the customer demand which is now influenced by the pandemic.

List of Artisan

Shameema Banoo

Experience: 15 years Location: Chee Anantnag Craft: Crewel Aari

Simmi Jan

Experience: 10 years Location: Chee Anantnag Craft: Aari

Meema Banoo

Experience: 18 years Location: Chee Anantnag Craft: Aari

Hadiya Jan

Experience: 10 years Location: Chee Anantnag Craft: Crewel Aari

Firdousa

Experience: 15 years Location: Chee Anantnag Craft: Crewel Aari

Nazeera Banoo

Experience: 20 years Location: Chee Anantnag Craft: Crewel Aari

• Raw materials are available easily in the local market at reasonable rates. • As a traditional craft of Kashmir, it has increased the word and value of the craft. • The community of Artisans has rich experience as a result of the craft being a family business passed on from generations. • High demand for woolen upholstery in the international as well as local market. • Wide range of products which are handmade. • Artisans can work from the comfort of their home. • Work is available to all regardless of the gender. • Part time work during extreme weather conditions.

• The network is poor within the community. • They suffered financially in the pandemic situation. • As it is a labour intensive work, production rate is lower. • Time consuming • Lack of the working atmosphere • Artisans face health issues, due to continous working hours that affects their eye sight and spine. • Artisans are not paid sufficient amount as compared to the hard work put in . • Lack of direct market. • Depends on the international market.

• Crewel sari has seen growth, as its not just limited to upholstery and bathroom but also used fashion products. • International market • Schemes like Jammu and kashmir handloom development corporation (jkhdc) and jammu and kashmir handicrafts corporation limited (jkhc). • Dastakar, pragati mela and kashmir haat are some of the places where the crafts are displayed and given a recognition.

• Hand embroidery is dying craft and the machine is replacing them in providing more quantity than quality. • Decline of artisans • Developement making it less popular among new generations. • Lack of marketing strategies • Upcoming generatin in artisans is reluctant to learn. • Covid 19 affecting most of them , leaving them jobless.

Government Initiatives Schemes like Jammu and Kashmir Handloom Development Corporation (JKHDC) and Jammu and Kashmir Handicrafts Corporation Limited (JKHC). Necessary measures need to be put in place so that the traditional arts and crafts of the region regain its popularity at the national and international level. He had also called for undertaking requisite steps for incentivizing weavers and artisans to increase their income besides ensuring the revival of traditional arts and crafts. The decision was taken to provide minimum support price for the artisans and craftsmen involved in the making of traditional arts and crafts to increase their profitability and attract youth in these heritage professions. To attract the youth towards these traditional arts, the corporations were asked to explore the possibilities of tie-ups with Jammu & Kashmir Entrepreneurship Development Institute (JKEDI) so that start-ups can be undertaken by young and aspiring entrepreneurs. In July this year, J&K Lt. Gen. Sinha inaugurated a15-day

long craft fair at Kashmir Haat. It served as a boon for artisans and businesses and a breath of fresh air for locals and tourists. Sinha while inaugurating the fair stated that government’s aim is to empower the handicraft, handloom artisans and improve living standards of present and future generations of Kashmiri artisans. “With endeavors like revamping the Kashmir Haat, we are strengthening our commitment to providing market support to local artisans and weavers,” LG Sinha said. He revealed the plans of the government to provide new markets, create sustainable livelihood for the local artisans, besides preserving rich cultural heritage of J&K. During the past two years J&K administration has taken various steps to support the artisans in J&K. They have been offered financial aid and support to live a dignified life. The craft fair was an extension of the initiatives that the government has taken to give a major boost to PM Modi’s “vocal for local” mantra. — Agencies.

Craft C luster Initiative by NIFT

NIFT with the active support from the Ministry of Textiles, Office of Development Commissioner (Handlooms) and Office of Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) has developed and implemented a new Craft Cluster Initiative Program which aims to provide the students with continuous exposure to the handloom and handicraft clusters, thus providing an opportunity for creative innovation and experimentation. Through this initiative, NIFT aims to reach out to the artisans and craftsmen at the grass root level. The artisans and craftsmen involved in the initiative will benefit through knowledge dissemination and exposure to urban markets and design intervention, innovative designs and linkages with new markets. The Craft Cluster initiative at NIFT is designed with the objectives to sensitize NIFT students to the realities of the craft sector and give insight into regional sensibilities and diversities, resources and environment. Through

this initiative, NIFT has been successful in creating a widespread awareness and sensitivity in assimilating crafts into fashion and vice-versa. The Craft Cluster Initiative program is envisaged to provide the students of NIFT systematic, continuous and regular exposure every year to the diversely rich and unique handlooms and handicrafts of India. Under this dynamic initiative, the students of NIFT work closely with the artisans and weavers in clusters of India and undertake activities like diagnostic study, design intervention and prototype development. The artisans and weavers are also invited to NIFT campuses for exposure workshops, demonstration workshops, exhibitions and craft bazaars where they get an opportunity to interact with the craft experts, upgrade their product and design knowledge and understand consumers in the urban markets. 79

Conclusion The whole expedition of working with the craft from research to documentation has helped us in understanding the whole craft - Crewel Aari in depth. We learned about the challenges faced by the Artisans, especially during Covid-19 and how they are coming up with different and new techniques to preserve a strong place in the market despite all the challenges. Crewel Aari has a strong influence in the western markets especially Europe but is gaining the equal demand in India. Where machine made is replacing quality with quantity, the demand and importance of hand done embroidery is more till date. Both men and women practice the craft but women are usually more in number. The craftsmen produce, sell and earn profits through the craft. We are grateful for our faculty and mentors for giving us the opportunity of working with such an important and traditional craft of Kashmir. What we learned and experienced is way beyond the words.

Reference • Rita Law, Collecting Aari:The Amazing Crewel Embroidery of Kashmir India Buying Guide: Buying Guides for International Collectables, A Series, Volume Five, Kindle Edition, 2018 • Deborah Emmett, 2015 • Crewel embroidery with Rehman Sofi • https://www.tourmyindia.com/states/jammu-kashmir/arts-and-crafts.html • http://www.liveindia.com/kashmir/Introduction.html • https://www.easemytrip.com/blog/unique-kashmiri-culture-and-traditions • https://www.kashmirtreks.com/kashmir-weather-climate/ • https://www.thoughtco.com/geography-of-kashmir-1435549 • https://kashmirtravels.com/flora-and-fauna.html • https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.easemytrip.com/blog/amp/festivals-of-jammu-and-kashmir • https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.kashmirica.com/blog/kashmiri-dress/amp/ • https://www.culturalindia.net/indian-food/kashmiri.html • https://wrytin.com/brahmneetkaur/kashida-embroidery-k0jt1uj6 • https://gaatha.com/aari-embroidery-kashmir/ • https://www.researchgate.net/publication/340398293_Traditional_embroideries_shifting_gears_for_contemporary_market • https://www.picuki.com/media/2254549079387590089 • https://gaatha.org/Craft-of-India/research-embroidery-craft-srinagar/ • https://www.utsavpedia.com/motifs-embroideries/kasida-embroidery/ • https://www.directcreate.com/craft. • https://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g297615-d6196737-r646495899-Matamaal-Gurugram_Gurgaon_Gurgaon_District_ Haryana.html • https://www.kashmirbox.com/blogs/craft/the-enchanting-aari-kari • https://wrytin.com/brahmneetkaur/kashida-embroidery-k0jt1uj6 • https://gaatha.org/Craft-of-India/research-embroidery-craft-srinagar/ • https://www.utsavpedia.com/motifs-embroideries/kasida-embroidery/ • http://allaboutkashmirikashida.blogspot.com/2017/02/evolution.html?m=1 • https://www.google.co.in/amp/s/www.kashmirica.com/blog/kashmiri-embroidery/amp/

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List of Pictures

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Page 07; NIFT Srinagar Campus by Syed Azher Page 13; Paradise on Earth by Srinidhi chelikani Page 14; Origin background & People; Bharat Aggarwal Page 18; Kashmir's Climate by Sumaiya Alam Page 22; Flora & Fauna by BBC News Page 23; Cuisine; Cntraveller Page 25; Economy; Natgeotraveller Page 26; Various crafts of kashmirs;Outlookindia Page 28; Kashida; Swadesi Page 29; Kashida- Tools by Rajnish Kumar Page 30; Kashida- Process by Rajnish Kumar Page 32; Sozni; AngelanJey Page 33; Sozni Process; AngelanJey Page 35; Tilla Embroidery; Kashmirbox Page 36; Paper mache embroidery; Pinterest Page 37; Tapestry; Occidentallyinlove Page 39; Aari Embroidery; Rajnish Kumar Page 41; Aari by Rajnish Kumar

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Page 43; Crewel Aari by Rajnish Kumar Page 45; women Crewel Process; Daily Sabah Page 46; Crewel Aari; Mir arts crafts Page 47; Crewel Aari; Kala Saga Page 48; Process by Rajneel Page 50; Weighting materials; shubham Page 52; Tool; Kashmirbox Page 55; Stitch Technique; Best of kashmir Page 56,57; Pattern by Rajnish Kumar Page 60; Evolution byTabbasum Page 61; Significance by Rajnish Kumar Page 62; Product Range; websites mentioned below Page 64; Where to buy; AngelanJey Page 67; Market; Needpix Page 68; Current Market by Srinidhi Chelikani Page 70-76 by Artisans Page 80; Conclusion; The Decor Nook

Illustration Credits: Shubham Gupta